There are no real winners when two nations fall out, but today we live in an age when wars can rumble on for years and involve countless civilian casualties. So it’s a surreal experience to visit the Agincourt Museum next to a field where an international conflict – legendary for hundreds of years – was all wrapped up before teatime.

The Battle of Agincourt kicked off in heavy rain late in the morning of October 25th 1415, St Crispin’s Day. And by mid-afternoon, the cream of French nobility had been cut down in the mud by the firepower of English archers.

The English army

The English army, now believed to be around 8,500 men, were marching to Calais to return home by boat after a campaign in Normandy. They were led by King Henry V, and faced a French army of around 12,000 men. Henry’s army of English soldiers and largely from Wales archers, were already exhausted and suffering from dysentery. Some of them removed their trousers and fought half naked. Many of them kissed the earth of this corner of Pas de Calais in northern France. They believed they would be buried in it later that day. Henry V heard Mass, not just once, but three times.

The French army

The French were led by the Constable of France Charles d’Albret and Marshal Jean II le Meingre (Boucicaut). The battle ‘barely lasted a few hours’ says Ludovic Hiltenbrand, manager of the Centre Azincourt 1415. But it was a decisive victory for the English and became the stuff of legend. The French, wearing heavy armour and bogged down in mud were cut down as armour-piercing arrows with a range of 250 yards were unleashed from the innovative longbows of their enemy. Among the lost was Gallois de Fougières, a Marshall of France. He was effectively the first recorded gendarme to have died in the line of duty. The uniformed official we know today, the ‘Gendarme’, is a derivative of ‘gens d’armes’, or people with arms (weapons), hence the expression ‘to take up arms.’

Look for Agincourt on the map and you won’t find it. The village is actually called Azincourt, nestled in the lush countryside of The Seven Valleys. The change of spelling is down to a mispronunciation by an English knight. When asked by Henry V for the name of the nearby fortress he pronounced it Agincourt.

You can still see the field where the face off took place. Most of it is now farmland and all of it bordered by quiet country roads – a 4km circuit on foot or by car.

In the heart of the village, you’ll find the excellent Centre Azincourt 1415 museum.

Centre Azincourt 1415 – The Agincourt Museum

The totally revamped Agincourt museum (2021) aims to tell the true story of the great 15^th century battle and provides new detail about the Anglo-French conflict dubbed The Hundred Years War.

The new museum was designed by British Professor and author Anne Curry Emeritus Professor of Medieval History at the University of Southampton and French historian and author Christophe Gillot, Director of the Centre. They pored over material pertaining to the Battle of Agincourt that has survived in the National archives in the UK as well as chronicles and material in France. Their work has led to a new understanding of the battle.

The legend of Agincourt

For many centuries much of our ‘knowledge’ of Agincourt has come from William Shakespeare. Who can listen and not be moved by the stirring speeches the English king gives in Shakespeare’s Henry V (1599):

‘Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more;
And
‘We few, we happy few, we band of brothers’

They are words which have inspired time and again, representing “Englishness” and triumph in the face of adversity. Some 500 years later Laurence Olivier’s famous film of the play, released in 1944, was dedicated to the commandos and airborne troops who made D-Day possible. A great piece of propaganda.

But not everything we think we know is true. And the Centre Azincourt1415 sets out to dispel the myths and examine the real and extraordinary story.

The Agincourt museum gives a lot of information in an easy and digestible way – in French and in English. Try games like Sovereigns of the Hundred Years’ War. Discover what soldiers ate, and words from the Middle Ages, and details of daily life, the clothes of the period, the illnesses, the treating of wounds.

The section devoted to armour shows how different ranks were protected. Of course, the richer you were, the better your equipment. A video demonstrates how a knight put on his armour (not an easy task). And you get a chance to feel the weight of a helmet, handle a medieval sword and feel the force needed to shoot a longbow. There are interactive screens to play with, videos and clever touches – listen to the Hundred Years’ War explained in 100 seconds.

The Centre Azincourt 1415 puts on events every year – medieval banquets, Night at the Museum, exhibitions and more. (See the website below for details).

What to see around and about

But Azincourt isn’t the only reason to stop over in this delightful area of gentle, rolling farmland dotted with small villages and farms. Five small rivers flow south to join two larger rivers – the Canche and Authie, hence the name Seven Valleys. Drop into the Tourist Office in historic Hesdin for information on outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling and fishing.

Follow the Canche through the Seven Valleys towards its estuary at Le Touquet and you pass through Montreuil-sur-Mer. Definitely worth a stopover in anyone’s book for its rampart walks, historic citadel and cobbled streets. It’s here that Victor Hugo set part of Les Misérables.

Montreuil has also become a hot destination for foodies, thanks to an indecent number of good restaurants for a town of just 2,500 people. Enjoy Alexandre Gauthier’s Michelin-starred fare at La Grenouillère beneath the ramparts. Or a traditional flammekueche at Le Caveau.

Montreuil has plenty of interesting independent shops, the sort you rarely see on British high streets nowadays. Cheese fans should pack a cool bag to stock up from Fromagerie Caseus on Place Général de Gaulle. A large market is held on the square on Saturday mornings. On the opposite corner, Aux Douceurs d’Antan stocks a range of local products from chocolates and biscuits to soup, jam and beer. Children will love Dragibonbons, a sweet shop on rue d’Hérambault that makes its own themed ‘cakes’ from sweets. Whilst Oliviers near the Citadel is an Aladdin’s cave of wines and spirits.

By Gillian Thornton and Janine Marsh

DETAILS

Centre Azincourt 1415, 24 rue Charles VI, 62310 Azincourt, www.azincourt1415.fr
Open all year round: 10 am – 5:30 pm except Tuesdays (10am – 4:30pm); July/August: 10 am – 6:30 pm

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Less than 30 minutes drive from Calais port lies Wimereux, a Belle Epoque seaside town on the Opal Coast. It is though best reached by taking the ‘route 66’ of northern France which may take longer as you’re unlikely to be able to resist stopping off. You’ll drive on uncrowded roads, past meadows and pastures where curious cows lift their heads. You’ll pass through authentic fishing villages where you can buy the freshest of just caught fish from the front gardens of fishermen and their families. You can stop off to discover memorials and museums. The D940 takes you up and down hills until you drop into Wimereux, just before you reach Boulogne-sur-Mer. Discover what to see and do in Wimereux – it’s not big, but it is beautiful.

Belle Epoque fantasy

The Opal coast has long lured tourists, celebrities, royalty and jetsetters. President de Gaulle holidayed in Wissant just 20km from Wimereux. Charles Dickens loved this area saying “if only it were but 300 miles further off… how the English would rave about it.” A little further round the coast, Le Touquet Paris-Plage was once the jetset capital of Europe, home to the biggest hotel the world had ever seen in the early 20th century. Impressed by the town’s glamour, Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royale based on Le Touquet’s casino, and Sean Connery signed his first Bond contract there some times later.

Wimereux is rather more sedate than Le Touquet, but doesn’t lack for glamour. Its Belle Epoque villas in the Anglo-Norman style, are whimsical but impressive. Decorative facades are painted in all the colours of the rainbow and sprinkled throughout the streets which lead to the long sandy beach.

What to see and do in Wimereux

Napoleon I was responsible for Wimereux’s development. He commissioned the foundation of a town and a port for his Grand Army, intending to conquer England, just across the English Channel and clearly visible on clear days from the Opal Coast.

The supervised beach is superb, vast and sandy with a rocky slipway for boats where children fish for shrimp. But it’s not a seasonal-only seaside town, it’s residential so with few exceptions, most places are open year round. The promenade of Wimereux is a wonderful place to well… promenade!

There are sports activities, sailing, and horse riding, plus a great golf course on top of the cliffs. The town has a varied and cultural programme including a summer festival dedicated to mussels which breed in proliferation along this coast line. There is a weekly market which triples in size in the summer months.

The town remains resolutely old-style French. There are no big chain stores or coffee shops. There are boutiques and quirky stores, cafés and bars, bread and cake shops. Along the sea front there are larger restaurants. In a prime spot overlooking the sea you’ll find the Art Deco style Hotel Atlantic. It has a laid back style which belies its Michelin-star status. Expect the freshest fish and gourmet dishes from the first floor starred restaurant. On the found floor is a non-starred bistro.

Canadian John McCrae is buried in Wimereux where he died in 1918. The author of the haunting poem “In Flanders Field” is honoured on 11 November each year when children in local schools light candles in his memory and read his poem out loud.

Wimereux is a relaxing and an ideal get-away-from-it-all seaside town, with a lot of style and a great base to explore the wider area.

More on the Opal Coast area

Nausicaa, Boulogne-sur-Mer, one of the Europe’s largest and best aquariums

Guide to Boulogne-sur-Mer 

Le Touquet Paris-Plage

Fabulous French seaside towns on the Opal Coast

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Vieux Lille, the old town of Lille, is a place of fanciful Flemish facades. Where bars, bistros, boutiques and shops line the cobbled streets which wind their way labyrinth-like around the central Place du Général de Gaulle, known as the grand’Place.

Outdoor cafés abound in the ancient city centre, art of all kinds adorns the streets and you could visit a different museum in and around Lille every day for two weeks and still not see them all.

The former capital of culture is lively, vivacious and at the same time cultured and urbane. Lille has undergone a metamorphosis from a once industrial hub through a rather run down stage to emerge as a top city break destination and one of the most fascinating cities in Europe…

Lille – A feast for all the senses

Here’s where to indulge in a feast for the senses. Here are some of the best cultural sites and restaurants that are close by – feed your soul, and your stomach!

Culture: Palais des Beaux Arts

The Palais des Beaux Arts lives up to its name, it really is a grand palace and one of the largest museums in France. It has the second biggest collection of fine arts outside of Paris with exhibits from antiquity to contemporary, including all the greats from Rubens, Goya and Monet to Van Gogh, Picasso and Chagall. Head to the basement to discover a unique collection of ancient relief maps, fourteen 17th century exact replica miniature models of towns such as Ypres in Belgium (it was used as a blueprint for rebuilding Ypres after WWII) and Lille. They were once used by Louis XIV and his famous martial engineer Vauban to plan military tactics. There are regular, world class temporary exhibitions, and innovative touch screens (including gigapixel) help visitors to explore the artworks.

Eat: Au Moulin d’Or

Au Moulin d’Or is very close by, in the centre of Old Lille in a converted lingerie store. A listed monument, this restaurant featured in Dany Boon’s “Bienvenue Chez les Ch’tis”, France’s biggest grossing film of all time. It’s been renovated to a fabulous standard. Glittering chandeliers and a gorgeous central staircase, plus it regularly showcases local artists. Upstairs or downstairs, there’s a great atmosphere and a classic brasserie menu – delicious. 31-33 Place du Théâtre

Culture: Musée de l’Hospice de la Comtesse

The Museum of the Hospice de la Comtesse is steeped in history. It was founded in 1236 by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders to care for the poor and sick. Look out for the wonderful painting in the baroque chapel of Jeanne and her sister Marguerite giving money to the hospice’s nuns. The oldest part of the building dates to the 1400’s. It includes magnificently furnished rooms depicting Flemish life from the 15th to the 17th centuries. My favourites were an enchanting 17th century kitchen with gorgeous blue and white Delft-like tiles and a linen room with a perfectly preserved 17th century press. There’s a fascinating collection of paintings and antiques and regular exhibitions dedicated to the history of Lille. It’s a charming museum with an authentic atmosphere – a must-see.

Eat: Barbue d’Anvers

A short walk away, tucked away down an alley behind a pretty courtyard in a beautiful 16th century Flemish building, lies a local legend. Here they serve regional specialities such as rich and robust carbonnade flamande – a beef stew made with beer and brown sugar. And the unpronounceable potjevleesch, a dish of three cold meats (traditionally rabbit, chicken and veal) in aspic. Plus waterzooi, a type of chicken soup. The dining room is charming and vintage, with candles, books and knick-knacks galore. The locals adore this quirky restaurant with a warm ambiance. 1 bis Rue St Etienne 59800 Lille; lebarbuedanvers.fr

Culture: Gare Saint Sauveur

One of the things I love about Lille is the way abandoned but spectacular buildings are converted into cultural venues. Gare Saint Sauveur, a former freight station built in 1861, is now an inspirational space where regular events, art exhibitions and performances are hosted. It houses a cinema, bar and restaurant, gardens and a summer pop up bar. The huge warehouses are perfect for showcasing art. I loved how the railway tracks were still in situ, a reminder of the past fixed in the present. It’s also one of the main Lille3000 venues, the legendary tri-annual, 9-month long art festival which takes place in the streets and public buildings of Lille city and surrounding districts.

Eat: Bistrot de Saint So

Bistrot de Saint So is part of the Gare Saint-Sauveur complex and is a great way to mix art and food. When you’ve finished feasting on the art in the former station, head to the very chic restaurant and enjoy some seriously good dishes. This place is super popular with the locals for lunch (Wednesday – Sunday) so make sure you book in advance on their Facebook page. Enjoy dining on the fabulous large terrace watched over by a giant baby with a tail, or in the chic interior. I’m not sure the food makes your “hair sparkle” as they claim (with a big smile) but with fantastically tasty salads and a seasonal menu, I think they might just be right! It’s also open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights for a trendy night of music with DJs. There are also live performances. And seriously funky cocktails. facebook.com/bistrotdestso

Culture: Vielle Bourse

Head to la Vielle Bourse, the former  stock exchange, built in 1623. The courtyard hosts a second-hand book market (Tues-Sun, afternoons) on stalls under a vaulted walkway, alongside walls lined with fabulous carved friezes and sculptures. If you’re there on a Sunday night in the summer, join in the tango dancing under the stars.

Eat: L’Atelier des Chefs

Cook your own lunch or dinner with a chef tutor. At L’Atelier des Chefs Lille, you’ll improve your skills as you create a classic dish from scratch in just 30 minutes. You then get to enjoy eating your masterpiece at this fun cookery school. Great for individuals, couples and friends. Lunch time cooking course €17 Euros; gourmet dinner course lesson (one hour) where you’ll make a main course and dessert €38. Booking in advance is essential.

Culture: Tri Postal

Located in the former postal sorting office, it’s neither a museum or art centre but a place of art and life say the staff. Temporary exhibitions, performances and workshops are held in this dynamic and exciting cultural venue.

Eat: Coke

Coke restaurant in the ex-offices of the old Mining Company of Lens, hence the name. It’s a majestic building designed by architect Louis-Marie Cordonnier. Upstairs is an elegant, chandeliered dining room. Down-stairs is modern and arty and a retractable glass roof makes it great for sunny days. Bold, playful and clever food is on the menu from a talented team working in a glass-fronted kitchen. It’s also a great venue for an aperitif with a swanky cocktail bar and music on Friday nights.

Culture: La Piscine & Street art Roubaix

A short tram or metro ride from Lille, La Piscine, Roubaix’s art-deco swimming pool turned museum with a world-class collection, is one of the most popular museums in France. Read more about it here.

Roubaix has street art superstar status with an annual urban art festival (#XU), fabulous murals and two amazing studios dedicated to urban culture. Atelier RemyCo has 15 artists in residence including some well-known names (Mr. Voul and Freaks the Fab). Meanwhile Atelier Jouret hosts 40 artists: painters, sculptors, fashion designers and more. On the first Sunday of each month, you can visit the workshops, meet the artists and buy something unique from these hotshots of urban art. Read more about Roubaix and it’s extraordinary artists.

Eat: Meert at La Piscine

Meert is famous for its jewel-like pastries and the most moreish waffles ever made. They’ve been making sweet things since 1761 and their famous shop in Lille is like stepping back in time. They also have a beautiful art deco tearoom and restaurant with a gorgeous terrace garden (perfect for sunny day lunches) at La Piscine museum in Roubaix. The menu reflects the world class exhibitions  and really adds a little je ne sais quoi to your visit. The chef works with curators to design unique menus. There are exhibition-theme influenced dishes (and there’s also a seasonal, classic French menu). Leave room for one of their famous sweet waffles. You’ll be in good company, they were created for Belgian King Leopold 1!

Culture: MUBA Eugène Leroy

In the district of Tourcoing on the outskirts of Lille, the Museum of Beaux Arts has an excellent and substantial permanent collection from the 17th-20th century.

Eat: Le Paradoxe

Le Paradoxe is almost next to the museum. It’s a seriously funky restaurant located in the former Hospice which dates back to the 13th century. 3 Rue d’Havre, Tourcoing.

Find out more things to do on the Lille Tourist Office website and at UKFrancefr

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The far north of France, known as Hauts de France comprising the departments Picardy, Pas-de-Calais and Nord is the perfect road trip destination. A land of castles, seaside resorts, forests and lakes. There are ancient towns and cities, gorgeous countryside and picturesque villages and even Champagne vineyards! If you’re after a road trip that takes you to the heart of authentic France.  Where you’ll enjoy delicious food, meet friendly folk and discover a historic land that’s full of surprises. Then hit the road and explore this unexpected and extraordinary region…

Unspoiled, uncrowded, rural tourism at it’s best.

Road Trip Pas de Calais, northern France

Our journey began on P&O Ferries from Dover to Calais on an early morning sailing. Turning left out of the port we headed for the D940 Opal Coast route, which I call the Route 66 of the north of France. It passes through a stream of small fishing towns, seaside resorts and some of the most beautiful scenery in France.

There are miles and miles of unspoiled and endless sandy beaches. There are huge dunes and pine forests; dramatic clifftop walks offer dizzying views across the Channel to the White Cliffs of Dover – clearly visible on a cloudless day. Some parts of the coast remind me of the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland. Massive boulders seem to spill out of the sea and up to the road. Fishermen sit silent and patient along the water’s edge with rods and nets. Out to sea you can see traditional wooden fishing boats bobbing on the calm water.

Secluded Bays and picnic dreams

The sky was blue, the English Channel was the colour of the Mediterranean Sea, a soft sort of turquoise. The air was scented with apples from orchards lining the country roads as we drifted off the main coastal route and into the beautiful countryside to hunt down a patisserie. Nothing says France more than a baguette with a chunk of cheese followed by a jewel like cake and a glass of chilled wine. We sat on a blanket overlooking the English Channel, rabbits hopping around us, birds swooping above. A moment of pure pleasure.

We found secret, secluded bays where seals frolicked. There are monuments and museums, and the remains of the Atlantic Wall built as protection against allied invasion during World War II.

Stop en route to discover secrets and surprises

It doesn’t take more than 45 minutes from Calais to Boulogne-sur-Mer. But, it’s far better to spend the entire day on this section of the road. Stop to enjoy a home-cooked lunch in a friendly, welcoming café and buy fish fresh from the fishermen who sell direct from their front rooms and garages in villages like Audresselles. Wander on the beach, admire the ancient fort at Ambleteuse (above) and the Belle Epoque villas at Wimereux.

This is a part of France that’s hardly known outside of the region despite being captured on canvas by J M Turner who loved the ”opal” quality of light, and Charles Dickens singing the praises of the area and moving his family there.

Boulogne-sur-Mer

Boulogne-sur-Mer deserves a day of discovery. Head to the old town, so pretty it looks like a film set. Don’t miss the incredible decorated crypt of the Basillica Notre-Dame, the rue du Lille, lined with quirky boutiques and restaurants.

The 13th century Chateau Museum includes an Egyptian collection donated by renowned Egyptologist François Auguste Ferdinand Mariette, born in the town and the founder of the Cairo Museum of Egyptology. Nausicaa, the largest sea aquarium in Europe and heaps more will definitely fill a day right up…

From Boulogne, the D940 runs on through Neufchatel-Hardelot with its neo-Shakespearian Theatre and Castle with a cultural centre dedicated to Entente-Cordiale and glorious Hardelot beach. And on through charming Etaples, once a fishing port, neighbour to the swanky jet set seaside resort of Le Touquet-Paris-Plage, and several lovely seaside towns before crossing the border into Picardy…

Road Trip Picardy, Northern France

Marquenterre nature reserve

Close to the border at Saint-Quentin-en-Tourmont, we followed the signs for Parc Marquenterre. I’m not a twitcher, but I love animals and this nature reserve on the Bay of the Somme has a reputation for being really special.

A dusty track ended in a huge car park where a surprisingly smart and large restaurant and bar tempted us in. Here in what feels like the middle of nowhere, they serve delicious dishes with heirloom vegetables, the freshest local fish and superb desserts, fitting fuel for explorers. 200 hectares of land covered in marshes, peppered with lakes and ponds, dunes and reed beds are an absolute magnet for birds of all types. From a hide, I spied on storks and herons. Birds tweeted above and around us. The air is fresh and unpolluted, you feel as if you have the whole area to yourself. Marquenterre is mesmerising, memorable and magical.

Saint-Valery-sur-Somme, steam trains and cobbled streets

From here it’s a short ride to the town of Saint-Valery-sur-Somme. This ancient and extremely photogenic little town on the Somme Estuary has absolutely oodles of charm. It’s easy to spend an entire day here.

Stroll the cobbled streets. Wander along the harbour and the long esplanade to ogle the mansion houses. And discover the colourful sailors district. You’ll know exactly what lured the artist Degas and writers Victor Hugo and Jules Verne to holiday here. Long before them, Joan of Arc was held captive here. The dungeon where she is said to have been imprisoned is still there. It’s a tiny stone tower and you can’t help but think how the poor girl must have felt cooped up in her claustrophobic prison.

William the Conqueror was here too, stopping off to collect soldiers before making history and conquering England in 1066. Standing on the ramparts looking out to sea in the medieval town I wondered if he too had stood there. Wondering, dreaming, daring to hope that his ambitious plans to quell his dastardly enemy across the water might come true. All that thinking makes you hungry. Luckily this little town is teeming with cafés, bistros and restaurants.

The stream train is an irresistible lure. It takes you, on authentic wooden seats, round the Bay of the Somme, classified as one of the most beautiful bays in the world. We spotted wild pigs, deer and all manner of birds en route. You can take a boat ride out on the bay where the largest colony of seals in France live. Join a walking or bike tour (you can rent bikes in the town), or simply sit back and enjoy the ambiance. Watching the sun set over the bay, is one of those unforgettably beautiful moments in life…

Gorgeous Gerberoy

Take in the stunning medieval village of Gerberoy. Officially classified as a Plus Beaux Village, it has oodles of charm. Read about Gerberoy here: What to see and do in Gerberoy

Amiens Gothic Cathedral and astonishing floating gardens

The D940 runs all the way to Le Tréport in Normandy where the road then becomes the D925. It then runs around the coast through Dieppe before reverting to its original number to reach Le Havre. But stay in the Hauts de France region and head to the city of Amiens where you’ll discover Les Hortillonnages, one of the best kept secrets of France. These watery arteries give Amiens a unique atmosphere. You really have a feeling that you are in the most beautiful countryside – right in the centre of a busy metropolis.

The hortillonnages are a major heritage site. Marshland gardens, cultivated for centuries, created on man-made islands and on the land which lines the waterways. In fact the gardens are so old that no one knows when they began. But, legend has it that when the city’s Cathedral was built in the 13th century, it was on a field of artichokes managed by the gardeners of the hortillonnages.

All tours are by eco-friendly electric boats which glide silently across the tranquil waters. Steering the boat round islands, stopping off at jetties to look at artworks dotted around, enjoying a picnic on an island – it really brings out your inner happy. The only disturbance was the cooing and calling of birds and the croaking of frogs. You’d hardly even know you’re in a city if it wasn’t for the fact that you can see the spire of the great Gothic cathedral in the distance.

Chateau de Chantilly

At the stunning Chateau de Chantilly treating yourself to some Chantilly cream is de rigeur! Fling the diet plans out of the window and dig straight in. In the gorgeous gardens of this fairy tale castle is a hamlet that was allegedly the inspiration for Marie-Antoinette’s hamlet at Versailles. Pretty little half-timbered buildings and sweet bridges over a bubbling stream. The restaurant serves great lunches including strawberries and Chantilly cream. It was whipped at our table, right in front of our eyes. I confess, my eyes were not bigger than my belly. I has no trouble getting through a very large dollop of utterly seductive cream.

Read more about Chantilly castle and its amazing stables here.

Chateau Thierry | Champagne Vineyards – in Picardy

Take a detour to the area of Chateau Thierry on the Champagne border. You might be amazed to discover that more than 10% of all the Champagne made, is actually produced from vines in this part of Picardy! I have to tell you, if you’re a fan of the fizz like me, it’ll make you effervescent with happiness to go here. You can enjoy a fabulous tasting at several Champagne Houses.

Thiepval Memorial

Thiepval Memorial is one of the most emotional memorials I’ve been to. Not just because of the 72,000 names etched into the white walls, or the row upon row of crosses.

The guides who work here offer free tours and they share anecdotes and stories of those whose names are forever remembered. As the guide told me about a man whose bravery at trying to save the lives of his comrades ended in his own death, I looked up on the walls. The names are familiar to us all, Davis, Smith, Roberts – and Cedric Dickens, great-grandson of Charles Dickens who’d loved the north of France so much. The absolute tragedy of the sacrifices made, the terrible losses, completely overwhelmed me. I burst into tears and thought how very grateful I am for all that I have.

Road Trip Nord, Northern France

Lille – historic and stunning

Lille, the capital of Hauts-de-France has the most beautiful old town. Wander it’s cobbled streets under colourful bunting, past boulangeries and cake shops where people wait patiently in queues – a small price to pay for the lushest of dishes. Dine at an authentic estaminet, the Flemish word for an inn. Visit a microbrewery. There are museums and art galleries  galore. You’ll fall under the spell of this vibrant city that’s crammed with museums and cultural highlights and full of friendly folk, so that you can hardly bear to leave. There’s just so much to do: 10 things to do in Lille

And it’s a short journey to the Roubaix district. Here you’ll find the world class La Piscine museum and a whole load more art and culture. And not much further to Lens where you’ll find a branch of the Paris Louvre, the world’s most visited museum. The Lens Louvre is an extraordinary museum and a must-see for all lovers of art.

Saint Omer

Saint Omer is about half an hour from Calais which makes it a great last stop on your way home to shop for supplies. But en route from Lens, make a stop at Bethune and discover the pretty town and Chef Marc Meurin’s fabulous hotel and Michelin starred restaurant. The sweet-toothed chef also has a sweet shop that would make Willy Wonka do cartwheels. Chef Meurin also offers cooking lessons. Even I, “Flop Chef”, learned how to create something marvellous! And he has a great, informal restaurant called Le Jardin d’Alice which the locals love.

Back to Saint Omer. It’s a quintessential French market town that has a massive historic footprint. Thomas a Becket AKA Saint Thomas Becket took refuge from Henry II of England there in 1165. Centuries later, three of America’s Founding Fathers, Daniel, Charles and John Carroll, studied at the Jesuit Chapel.

Markets, Shakespeare and Flemish cafes

If you can, be there for the Saturday morning market. A riot of colour and scents and sounds fill the cobbled square in front of the neo-classic town hall. Stalls are piled high with produce, vegetables grown on the local marshes and farms or by green-fingered locals. This is one of the most authentic and friendly markets I’ve ever been to. And when you’re done, pop to the town library. It looks ordinary from outside, however – head to the old part of the building where books go back to the 7th century. A priceless First Folio of Shakespeare’s plays was recently discovered on its heaving shelves! And stop to enjoy a local beer and Flemish dish at any number of cafés and watch the world go by and plan your return to this unforgettable part of France.

Once is never enough.

See my trip by video:

This region is a land of contrast, sea and country, history and culture, arts and crafts and gastronomy. Whether you stay for a weekend or a week, there’s so much to discover that one visit will never satisfy you…

Get my free road trip guide and discover more great things to do in northern France: french-weekendbreaks.co.uk. There are loads of tips for restaurants and things to do in and around the areas mentioned…

The post Road Trip northern France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Lens in the Nord department, a few kilometres south east of Bethune and just to the north of Arras was for three centuries a major production area for the coal mining industry. When production ceased in the late 20^th century, Lens for a while, had an air of dejection. Today, that’s certainly completely changed, however, sections of the coal mining industry have been preserved for posterity serving as educational and cultural reminders of the once great industry that contributed so much to the French economy.

UNESCO listed slagheaps

Any visitor to Lens won’t fail to spot the vast slag waste heaps that dominate the regional landscape. There are 51 of them. The sight is quite spectacular and forms part of a new artistic culture that has brought regeneration to the area. They’ve even achieved UNESCO world heritage status. Unesco defines the region as an “organically evolved” cultural landscape, part of a list of “distinct geographical areas or properties uniquely representing the combined work of nature and of man”.

The coal slag piles are constantly monitored by specialist engineers. They are quite safe and accessible for climbing. I walked right to the top of one and admired the breath-taking views over the surrounding countryside from the summit. It was a clear day and the Belgium coast could be seen in the distance. The man-made terrain has a rough and grainy substance that is easy to walk on. Entrance is free and takes around an hour and half for the climb and return.

There are other reminders of the days of the mines. Mining pits, workers cottages and mining villages, an original cast iron lift shaft. They form a powerful component and symbol of what has now been transformed into an imposing, landscaped art form. And a tourist attraction.

The slag heaps are becoming transformed by vegetation, trees and plants, even vines. One has become a dry ski slope.

You don’t have to take a guided tour but they are offered at Base 11/19 de Loos-en-Gohelle.

Lens Louvre Museum

Lens is also the base for an annex of the prestigious Louvre museum in Paris. The glass and aluminium art gallery, very different from the Paris museum, is a vast and imposing sight. It stands in grounds landscaped to represent the old coal mining fields as an artistic statement. The ‘Louvre-Lens’ museum displays artworks from its parent in Paris on a regular exchange basis. Entrance to the museum is free. Read more about: Lens-Louvre Museum

Lens town and around

Pop into the town for something to eat and drink, there are plenty of friendly cafés. And the art deco train station is well worth a look. Built to resemble a steam train, it is a listed National Heritage Site.

Lens is close to many sites including Vimy Ridge, the Ring of Memory and Notre Dame de Lorette also known as Ablain St.-Nazaire French Military Cemetery.

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In the stunning countryside of the Seven Valleys, at the foot of the medieval hilltop town of Montreuil-sur-Mer in Pas de Calais, northern France, lies a rather large secret.

A long, tree lined drive surrounded by fields and forests, makes for an impressive entrance to a grand arched doorway. Step through and you’ll enter a different world. One which has its feet firmly in the past.

I’d spotted this monumental building from the ramparts of nearby Montreuil-sur-Mer’s citadel. It’s hard to miss the grey stone belfries reaching to the sky and row upon row of ancient buildings which stand out amongst the forests and fields of the lush countryside. La Chartreuse de Neuville, or the Charterhouse, as it’s called in English, is nothing short of astonishing.

History of the Charterhouse

In 1084, a group of monks who wanted to follow the harsh, contemplative lives of early Christian hermits formed a small community in the Chartreuse Mountains, near Grenoble, southeast France. They led silent, meditative lives and owned no possessions. From this beginning grew a new monastic order that spread rapidly across Europe. The monks became known as Carthusians and their priories as charterhouses.

History of La Chartreuse de Neuville

Charterhouses were established all over Europe. They were all built to a formal specification and for the same purpose says my guide Patrick Alindre at La Chartreuse de Neuville. Around a Cour d’honneur lived the Brothers, monks who worked in the monastery and supported the Fathers. Behind this were the apartments of the Fathers. Each lived alone and in silence. The Charterhouses were huge “because only then could silence be guaranteed and that was essential to the role of the Fathers” says Patrick as our footsteps echo around the enormous cloisters.

The original charterhouse was built in 1324, commissioned by the powerful Count of Boulogne in the shadow of Montreuil-sur-Mer which was a pilgrimage destination, as well as a prosperous port town. In August 1561, Mary Queen of Scots stopped off at Montreuil-sur-Mer on her way to Scotland from France and was given a gift of two peacocks from the Charterhouse of Neuville.

After the French Revolution when the state seized church property, the monks left and the building fell into disrepair. It was sold to a private buyer who dismantled it and sold off the material which was used in local buildings. The Charterhouse was bought back by the state in 1870 and restored by renowned architect Clovis Normand, born in nearby Hesdin and a pupil of Violet le Duc, recreator of Notre Dame Paris. He also designed St Hugh’s Charterhouse in Parkminster, England which is twinned with La Chartreuse de Neuville.

Life in La Chartreuse

The two communities of La Chartreuse de Neuville consisted of 24 Fathers and 24 Brothers who grew vegetables and fruit and supported the Fathers. They were all vegetarian.

Each father lived alone in an apartment called a cell, though it was quite substantial. They lived in silence and without company. Their food was passed through a guichet, a cupboard in the wall with two doors. A Brother would open the outer door, put the food in the cupboard and close the door. Then the Father would open his door to take the food. It was the same with any supplies including firewood. The Fathers were forbidden from doing work other than spiritual, except for cutting firewood. Each apartment was exactly the same, on two levels and with a small enclosed garden where they could grow flowers if they wished.

The ground floor level was considered the material world – connected to the world of man. There was a short corridor known as a promenoir where a Father could walk for exercise. Upstairs they entered the Ava Maria room and left behind the world of the non-spiritual. Here they would pray for hours on end. They also had a wood cutting area, a bedroom and prayer area, a table and chair.

The fathers were allowed to do spiritual things, reading, writing, painting and sculpting but nothing they produced ever had their signature. They had no personal possessions, no ego and no vanity. There were no distractions and their roles were viewed as collective. They prayed. A lot.

A life of prayer and solitude

The Fathers were felt to experience a spiritual consciousness by withdrawing from the world which enabled them to pray for mankind.

I expected to feel claustrophobic and shut in when I stood in the apartment of a Father. But instead, it felt surprisingly open, tranquil and calm. In the small garden I could feel the rays of the sun and hear the birds. Other than that it was silent as it had been for centuries.

Colourful patterns fell across the cloisters from the stained glass windows. There are several cloisters, arched and columned and glorious.

The Fathers met five times a day for prayer in the Great Chapel. And on Sunday afternoons when they dined together – always in silence. On Mondays they were allowed to take a walk outside the Charterhouse and speak if necessary and once a week they would gather in the Chapter Room and speak – but only if they had something relevant to say. The French saying “l’avoir l’avoir a chapitre” – having a voice in the chapter, which means to have influence, originated from this.

They were allowed to meet up with their family for just two hours a year. No part of the Charterhouse was accessible to the public but religious visitors were allowed.

Every Charterhouse followed the same rules and routines.

What to see at La Chartreuse de Neuville

In 1901 the Loi of Association separated the church and state in France, and the monastery finally met its end. It became a sanatorium, orphanage and asylum. In WWI the French Government turned it over to refugees fleeing Belgium. 5000 people passed through, 600 died there and are buried in the grounds.

La Chartreuse de Neuville has dozens of cloisters, chapels, a library and other rooms. It was once the home of  the printing press for all the Charterhouses of Europe 1800s. But the equipment was transferred to St Hugh’s Charterhouse (there are plans to have it returned).

A huge central courtyard around which are cloisters is dominated by two belfries – one for God and one for man with bells ringing on the hour. The prior of the community was elected every two years from the Fathers and lived in a bigger house overlooking the central courtyard.

When they died their bodies were laid to rest in the chapel of death. You can spot by the carved skull over the top of the door. They were buried in a cloth, with no marker, nothing remained of them with their purpose fulfilled – to pray for mankind and to have no ego.

Nowadays you can visit and see the beautiful gardens overlooking the Canche Valley but the guided tour (in French but English speakers are given a paper guide to help them) is essential to really appreciate this incredible building.

Exhibitions are held in the refractory and regular events take place year round including a Blues Festival in the summer, electro nights and concerts.

It’s a fascinating place with a real feeling of spirituality…

lachartreusedeneuville.org

What to see close by

Le Touquet the “Monaco” of northern France, swish, swanky and elegant seaside resort
Where to take a foodie break in Pas de Calais
Guide to Boulogne-sur-Mer, the port city has an incredible historic walled inner city
Montreuil-sur-Mer, the little town which inspired Victor Hugo to write Les Miserables

The post La chartreuse de Neuville, Montreuil-sur-Mer appeared first on The Good Life France.

Right in the centre of the old town of Lille in northern France, the Musée de l’Hospice Comtesse is a gem of a museum. From its entrance in cobbled rue de la Monnaie, you have no idea what lies behind those grand wooden doors. Set into a long wall peppered with arched windows and doorways, now mostly boutiques and gourmet food shops, the museum entrance opens up to reveal a series of buildings and courtyards and a truly fascinating visit.

History of the Hospice de la Comtesse

The former hospital was founded in 1237, in the oldest part of Lille. It was commissioned by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders. A medieval hospital to care for the sick and the poor, created within her own palace walls. It was also a hotel for pilgrims en route to Rome and Compostela.

More than 500 years of extension and adaptation followed. It has created a mixture of architectural styles dating mostly to the 15^th– 17^th centuries. The 15^th century former sick room, where nuns would rent out shop space there to help pay for patient care, is glorious.

A hospital until the French Revolution, the Hospice de la Comtesse then became an orphanage and care home for the elderly. It has been a museum of art and history since the 1960s.

What to see at the Musée de l’Hospice Comtesse

The museum focuses mainly on local history. Though, every few years when the incredible Lille 3000 art event is held, extra space is given to temporary exhibitions.

In the former 15^th century sick room, once a resting room for the sick, the poor and pilgrims, the vaulted ceiling was painted by a former orphan in the 17^th century. A magnificent painting shows Jean of Flandres and her sister Margeurite surrounded by praying nuns and saints. They clearly believed they would go to heaven for their good works.

There is a beautiful 17^th century kitchen with a vast fireplace. It’s worth visiting on its own merits for any lover of blue and white tiles, some Delft, others ancient copies. Rooms are furnished in Flemish style of the 17^th and 18^th centuries. There are many paintings including some of children. They were donated by their parents in thanks after being nursed by the nuns, reflecting a growing interest in the 17^th century for the care of children. An infirmary, pharmacy and linen room with a 17^th century press are fascinating.

The collections of the Musée de l’Hospice Comtesse

Upstairs, in the former nuns’ dormitory, there are paintings including some by Louis and Francois Watteau. You’ll also discover sculptures, works of art and everyday life which illustrate the history of the city until the Revolution.

It’s a fascinating little museum and an easy way to spend an hour to an hour and a half and get to know more about Lille’s long history.

Details: pba.lille.fr

More on Lille

Ten things to do in Lille
Palais des Beaux Arts, Lille, an extraordinary treasure trove
10 brilliant places to eat and drink at in Lille
The stunning second hand book market in Lille

Lille Tourist Office; UK.France.fr

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On a day trip from Dover to Calais or Dunkirk, you can easily discover the authentic and beautiful countryside, stunning villages and glorious beaches of the Opal Coast. We think one day definitely isn’t enough to enjoy all the charms of the far north of France but here are a few of our favourite things…

The Opal Coast

The Opal Coast, or Cote d’Opale in French, stretches 120km from just outside Dunkerque to Mers-les-Bains, Picardy on the border with Normandy. Along its route you’ll find sandy beaches, hidden coves, Jurassic rocks, dramatic dunes and craggy cliffs. Take the D940 coastal road towards Boulogne. Follow the winding road through the lush landscape of fields, which look like colourful quilts. And enjoy cliff top views  – the White Cliffs of Dover can easily be seen on a clear day.

You’ll pass through little fishing villages where you can buy fresh fish from the door steps of the fishermens’ houses. You’ll spot tiny boulangeries and welcoming cafés, monuments and museums for this is a region with an ancient history.

Though there are dozens of places to stop, and you’re bound to find your own favourites, there are some spots that are very special. Here are some of the best along the route from just outside Calais to Le Touquet:

Audresselles

This humble fishing village is like an echo of the past. Here the fishermen still haul their catch onto the beach in traditional wooden boats called Flobards, and then park them in the street like cars. The air is pure and the quality of light which gives the Opal Coast its name make this place quite simply – very special. Here is where the great painter JM Turner admired the views before capturing this coast line on canvas.

The beach is pristine and rocky, little pools teeming with fish where kids can enjoy an old-fashioned net on a stick wade and wallow. There are plenty of very good restaurants round the market square – the perfect location for moules et frites and a glass of wine.

Wine and dine Audresselles

Push the boat out: The Marie Galante (173 Rue Edouard Quénu) is one of the prettiest restaurants on this stretch of the coast and reflects the long history of sea-faring folk from this charming fishing village. It isn’t expensive and is run by sisters Godeleine and Béatrice Cuvellier, they serve the best of fresh fish including lobster landed by fishermen in the village. On a sunny day the terrace is delightful and when the famous breeze blows in from the sea, inside is cosy and welcoming.

Locals Love: La Retour des Flobards (58, rue Marin La Meslee). Set in the main square, this is a charming restaurant with a maritime theme and serves local seafood, crabs, lobster, mussels etc.

Wimereux

Pickled in the past, the little town of Wimereux is one of those genteel, off the beaten-track seaside resorts that people can’t help falling in love with. Its colourful Belle Epoque style villas and quirky shops are alluring and charming. It’s a little faded but still an elegant town with hotels, bars and cafés.

Wine and dine Wimereux

Push the boat out: The Atlantic Hotel (6 Rue Notre Dame) Indulge in a delectable meal created by the Delpierre father and son chefs. Awarded a Michelin Star for their Liègoise restaurant (upstairs) in February 2017 their food is fabulous and as you’d expect – largely fishy. Downstairs is the contemporary style bistro. Here you can enjoy a truly special three course meal that’s great value, including mouth-watering salmon smoked on site by the chef.

Locals Love: Le Sable Rouge (27 Digue de Mer). Traditional French cuisine, mussels and chips, pancakes and beer with friendly service and great sea views.

Boulogne-sur-Mer

The old town of Boulogne-sur-Mer is one of the secret gems of the north of France. Looking just like a film set, this historic town has played host to legions of would be invaders of Britain. Quite literally, as the soldiers of Julius Caesar camped here as did those of Napoleon Bonaparte. Enter the walled old town via one of the vast stone gateways and prepare to fall in love with its historic good looks. Nip into the UNESCO listed belfry to spot the cannon balls fired on the town by Henry VIII. Check out the incredible Basilica Notre Dame church with its Vatican style roof and painted ceilings. Then descend to the crypt, the largest in France and decorated by an ancient artist – it’s truly incredible.

Boulogne is home to 1,000 shops, 200 restaurants, five French markets a week and Nausicaa, the largest aquarium in Europe. Missing this world-class aquarium on a visit to the Côte d’Opale would be to miss a highlight of the region. “A close encounter with the sea” is how it styles itself and it’s an apt description. Home to 3,500 different animals including penguins and sea lions. There are engaging exhibitions as well as a stunning Coral Lagoon.

Wine and dine Boulogne-sur-Mer

Star restaurant: La Matelote (70 Boulevard Sainte-Beuve), seafood heaven at this Michelin starred restaurant/hotel on the sea front near Nausicaa. A taste sensation awaits…

Push the boat out: Chez Jules (8 place Dalton) is not expensive. A classic French brasserie where all the food is made on site from the bread to the chocolate. You’re likely to bump into the Mayor here as well as the market stall holders after they’ve finished work. They’re all enjoying the dishes of Chef Philippe Leleu “Master Restauranteur” in a convivial atmosphere.

Locals Love: Le Chatillon (6 rue Charles Tellier). It’s a little bit off the beaten track in the Capécure fishing quarter, and all the better for it. This restaurant opens at 04.00 in the morning for the fishermen who stop off for a hearty breakfast. But, you’re welcome to join them. It has an authentic atmosphere and a 98% lunch time fish menu. Don’t miss the popular “Parillada” mixed grilled fish and seafood marinated in garlic and olive oil. Check the website for opening times (le-chatillon.com)

Le Touquet Paris-Plage

The ”Monaco of the north” is a swish and swanky seaside resort. It’s the secret ‘get away from it all’ destination of Parisians as well as Brits in the know. It’s a taste of France that is hard to beat with its long golden sandy beaches and pretty Belle Époque villas. There are gourmet shops, fabulous restaurants, great golf courses, horse riding, tennis – I could go on and on. For a small seaside resort, Le Touquet packs a big punch. Not only that, the town prides itself on holding hundreds of events all year round.

There are fabulous restaurants, chichi shops – think Paris style. And, a myriad of sports activities in the place that was once the jet set nirvana. Ian Fleming based his book “Casino Royale” on the local casino where Cole Porter tinkled on the pianos keys and Noel Coward entertained his friends. Sean Connery signed his first Bond contract here. This place was THE place to go and it retains its air of glitz, glamour and gorgeousness.

Wine and Dine Le Touquet

Push the boat out: Le Pavillon at the Westminster Hotel (Avenue du Verger). Run by French chef (with an English sounding name) William Elliott, who has one Michelin star. Le West, as it’s known to the locals, is an Art Deco dream building. It’s glamorous in that oh-so-French effortless way.  In the elegant setting of the restaurant with its lovely terrace overlooking the iconic lighthouse of Le Touquet you’ll experience an impeccable fine dining experience where it’s all about the food. Relaxed and not remotely pretentious, welcoming and knowledgeable staff, expertly prepared dishes and skilled wine choices ensure this is completely faultless refined dining event.

Locals Love: Chez Perard (67 Rue de Metz) is one of the greatest fish restaurants in France. Don’t take my word for it, ask Lord Alan Sugar, he flies his plane to the local airport regularly – just to eat here. The soup made at the restaurant is famous all over France. Order it from the menu and they’ll offer you a top up – they’re so proud of it. The food here is fabulous. Fresh oysters, sea urchins, salmon smoked on the premises and the best bouillabaisse outside of Marseille (in my opinion).

Fish and Chips: So-Fish (16 Boulevard de l’Impératrice, Etaples-sur-Mer)) is one of the best-kept secrets of the Opal Coast. It’s popular with Parisians who flock to this part of France for a tranquil break at their second home villas in Le Touquet. You’ll find So-Fish just across a pink granite bridge leading from Le Touquet to Etaples. This tiny little restaurant has been featured in Elle and Paris Match for its authentic and tasty fish and chips. Chef Sophie-Perrault uses only the freshest fish. She makes the crispiest batter and piquant tartare sauce, making this a stand-out stop off.

More on northern France

Montreuil-sur-Mer, walled town with an ancient footprint which inspired Victor Hugo to write Les Miserables…
Cassel, the hilltop town where the Grand Old Duke of York marched his men!
What to see and do in Dunkirk

The post Some of the best places to visit near Calais on a day trip appeared first on The Good Life France.

Nip across the English Channel to discover a wealth of fabulous restaurants and gorgeous hotels for a relaxing and delicious break – and all less than one hour from Calais.

Star attractions… 

2 Michelin Star restaurant Chef Alexandre Gauthier of La Grenouillère in Montreuil-sur-Mer, south of Calais, is famous all over France. An innovative menu, theatrical restaurant with a Rockstar style kitchen on show from the dining room. Plenty of wow moments here. Afterwards take a walk in the country garden and then relax in a luxurious hut or bedroom in the small, but perfect, hotel. www.lagrenouillere.fr

Marc Meurin’s 2 Michelin Star restaurant, Le Meurin, an hour north east of Calais is a legend. With a firm emphasis on local seasonal produce, the food is memorable. Make sure you leave room for dessert, this is a chef with a passion for sweet things (the sweet trolley at the end of the meal is like a Willy Wonka dream come true)! The hotel is charming, big, chateau style rooms. www.le-meurin.fr

The art deco style Atlantic of Wimereux is a family-run business. Watching the sunset over the English Channel from the large windows of the 1 Michelin Star restaurant La Liégeoise is very romantic. There’s also a brasserie on the ground floor, L’Aloze has an authentic French menu and great atmosphere. All 18 bedrooms enjoy sea views at this four-star hotel.

Fishy feasts

Elegant Le Touquet has another art deco splendour, the iconic Le Westminster. Here you’ll find the delicious 1 Michelin Star restaurant Le Pavillon. There’s also Les Cimaises, brasserie style dining in an elegant dining room. For great cocktails or steaming hot chocolate, the wood panelled bar is perfect. Luxury rooms and suites and easy to walk to the beach and attractions of the town.

Just down the road Chez Perard fish restaurant is famous in France for its fish soup! Check out our top fish and chip restaurants in Pas-des-Calais

Chef Tony Lestienne has had Michelin Star status at La Matelote, Boulogne-sur-Mer where he works with his immensely talented chef son Stellio for more than 40 years. Seafood lovers will adore the seasonal menu here and comfy, luxury rooms of the hotel, a short walk from the sea front. www.la-matelote.com

Delicious Detours…

La Coeur de Remi is a chateau style hotel with spacious rooms, in the heart of the Seven Valleys, an area of outstanding natural beauty. If you fancy something a bit different, a luxury treehouse awaits! The restaurant is popular with the locals: cosy, authentic and great value. www.lacourderemi.com

In the countryside of Wisques, close to the quintessential market town of Saint-Omer, is La Sapinière hotel. It’s located in a park with views over the mountains of Flanders. Comfy rooms in cottage style buildings and a cosy restaurant with home made local dishes. www.sapiniere.net. Or head into Saint-Omer and discover a huge choice of restaurants including the tiny Chez Tante Fauvette (10 Rue Sainte-Croix). A stone’s throw from the magnificent Gothic Cathedral, the décor makes you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time, with great home cooked food.

If you’re stopping off in Calais on the way to or from the UK, you’ll find tasty restaurants in abundance. For traditional brasserie style food, the beautifully decorated L’Histoire Ancienne is superb www.histoire-ancienne.com.

If you like something a bit different, Les Grandes Tables du Channel in Calais arts centre is THE place to go. A quirky dining room, steam punk style rules here, friendly and a great value, traditional menu. Book (online) in advance if you can, it’s very popular with the locals. lechannel.fr

For a splash out meal, Le Grand Bleu gastronomic restaurant is exceptional. The menu dices the best of traditional cuisine with a modern touch. And it has a lovely light filled dining room opposite Calais harbour. www.legrandbleu-calais.com

The post Take a foodie break in Pas de Calais appeared first on The Good Life France.

Boulogne-sur-Mer is where you’ll find a beautifully preserved old town and the Basilica Notre Dame which has the longest crypt in France (dating back to Roman times). Cobble stone streets, ancient buildings, a chateau museum, quirky shops and fab restaurants. And, don’t miss the UNESCO listed Belfry where you’ll see cannon balls fired on the town by King Henry VIII.

Julius Caesar took off from here to invade England in 55BC. Napoleon mustered an Armada for the same purpose centuries later. The history of Boulogne-sur-Mer is long and rich. In our guide to Boulogne-sur-Mer, you’ll find there’s plenty to do and see in the lively town…

Guide to Boulogne-sur-Mer

Historic centre

Looking like something out of a film set, Boulogne-sur-Mer’s Ville Haute, a perfectly preserved medieval city, is a must-see.

Head to the tourist office to find out what’s on in town. And, while you’re there, climb the UNESCO listed Belfry which dates back to the 12th century. There are 183 steps going right to the top from where there are stunning views over the city.  The tower contains a museum of Celtic remains dating from the Roman occupation of the City. Don’t miss the cannon balls fired on the city by Henry VIII when he laid siege to the town in 1544. The inhabitants closed the gate, Porte de Degrés and it stayed that way until 1895! Now you can walk through the gates, climb the stairs and stroll around the ancient, boulevard-wide ramparts. Guided tours are provided in both English and French languages.

There are seventeen towers around the ramparts. From Gayette tower, near the Porte des Dunes, you’ll spot a plaque dedicated to Pilatre de Rozier, the first person to fly a Montgolfier balloon over Paris. In 1785 he attempted to cross the Channel from the ramparts. It was not successful. He is buried at Wimille a little way around the coast.

Basilica Notre-Dame

The Basilica of Notre-Dame in the old town is astonishing. Built on the site of other churches dating to AD636, it doesn’t matter what your beliefs are, this place is unique, unusual and utterly fascinating. Taking a pinch from Rome’s Pantheon, London’s St Paul’s Cathedral and Les Invalides in Paris it was designed by a priest with no architectural experience – and it is magnificent.

There is a brass hand in the church and visitors are invited to place their hands over it and pray for a miracle. Inside it is a sliver of wood said to come from a statue of the Virgin Mary which, legend claims, was pushed ashore at Boulogne-sur-Mer by Angels.

In 1477, Louis XI declared it a “true Madonna”. The prized relic bought pilgrims and Kings to the town. Alas the statue was destroyed in the French Revolution, only the slither remains. The walls of the church are adorned with plaques sent by those who prayed here and were granted their wish.

The crypt is astounding and enormous. In fact it’s one of the biggest in France at over 100m long and truly beautiful. Decorated in Romanesque style, the walls are covered with frescoes and there are precious relics on display. Here Edward II of England married Isabelle of France in 1308. Their son Edward III later started the 100 years war.

Market

The Saturday morning market at Place Dalton is buzzing and has plenty of stalls selling local produce wicker baskets, table-cloths and more. (Also held Wednesday though not quite as big). Take a break in one of the many cafés on the square.

If you love cheese, nip to Philippe Olivier’s famed fromagerie, just follow your nose as this shop stocks all your smelly favourites!

Just down the road you’ll find Casa San Martin, the former home of Argentinian-born General José Francisco de San Martín y Matorras. Better known as José de San Martín, he liberated Argentina (1816), Chile (1817) and Peru (1812) from Spanish rule and is considered the “Father of Argentina”. He lived in this house from 1848 until his death in 1850 and it is today a museum and a place that honours his memory. Read more about it here…

Chateau Museum

The Chateau Comtal was built during the medieval period. However, its foundations date back to Roman times and it was strengthened by Louis XIV’s military engineer the great Vauban. Napoleon III was imprisoned here in 1840. After WWI the body of the British Unknown Soldier lay here in state on the way to be buried in Westminster Abbey. It is now home to a museum displaying many artefacts that include an Egyptian art collection. It’s a little dated but good for a rainy day visit and there are some fascinating exhibitions.

Nausicaa

Nausicaa, the National Sea centre of France is listed by UNESCO as a “Center of Excellence”. It opened a brand new state of the art extension in spring 2018 which has made it one of the largest aquariums in the world, certainly the biggest in Europe – and it is spectacular.

Giant tanks fill the new space, and we mean giant. The “Big Tank” holds 10,000m³ of water – that’s enough water to fill four Olympic swimming pools. It is an awesome sight. You can walk right up to it and come face to face with shark, manta rays and shoals of fish. Or you can sit and watch, mesmerised, from benches in front of the tank, it’s strangely relaxing and hypnotic.

There are almost 60,000 creatures, 1,600 species, living in the huge underwater world of Nausicaa, as well as a few above water too – including penguins. The oldest resident is a sand tiger shark and the biggest resident is the wonderfully intelligent sea lion Speedy. It takes 7km of piping to move all the water round, a massive 17,000 m³ in total.

You’ll often spot divers in the tanks cleaning the copious amount of glass with sharks, sea lions and fish of all sorts swishing close by. You get a real feel for what life is like under the ocean.

Beach

Breezy for sure but the long sandy beach is great for a breath of fresh air. In fact Charles Dickens came here for the sea air and stayed for three years, bringing his family out to join him. He claimed it was his “favourite watering hole in France”.

It was once a very popular beach though less so now and in the 1700’s hordes of Britons flocked to Boulogne to enjoy the sea air and the laissez faire attitude of the locals.  If the tide is out, wander to the Napoleonic fort on the beach at Le Portel and collect mussels for your dinner as people have for centuries.

Climb Napoleon’s column

Napoleon Bonaparte spent three years in Boulogne planning an invasion of England. He stayed in a mansion called the Imperial Palace, now a university building, at the Place Godefroy de Bouillon,

Napoleon built 2000 boats and was so sure of success he had a victory column erected. His ambitions didn’t go to plan, but the colonnade remains, topped by a statue of the Emperor. You can climb the 296 stairs for a fabulous view across the Channel with the White Cliffs of Dover clearly visible on a fine day. A short walk away, a stone marks the spot where Napoleon issued the first Legion d’Honneur, in fact 2000 of them, sat on a throne, surrounded by 100,000 soldiers.

If you’ve no head for heights check out the little museum at the base of the Column which is full of fascinating documents, medals and the original Napoleon statue which was damaged by bombs in WWII.

La Maison de la beurière

Step back in time at an authentic ancient mariner’s cottage. Climb the steps up the rue du Machicoulis, near Nausicaa, and you’ll find a fisherman’s 19th century house furnished, and with staff dressed in costume.

Where to Eat out in Boulogne-sur-Mer

Enjoy the local favourite, mussels and chips, at any number of restaurants here. This is France’s biggest fishing port so as you’d expect – fish features high on the menu.

Rue de Lille with Place Godefroy Bouillon (named after a local lord who departed from the port of Boulogne in 1096 to lead the first Crusade and was made King of Jerusalem) at one end and the Basilica at the other end, is lined with shops and restaurants, some of which are open all day.

Wine & Dine. Michelin Starred La Matelote. Father and son chef team Tony and Stellio Lestienne (above) cook the most classic dishes as well as delicious and innovative food. The restaurant has held a Michelin star for an astonishing 40 years and is famous for its seafood platters. It’s also a lovely hotel with great views over the harbour.  www.la-matelote.com

Fishermen’s favourite

Authentic and fishy. Le Chatillon. Rub shoulders with fishermen, port workers and sailors at the legendary and authentic Le Chatillon. This quirky restaurant, decked out to look like a ship with wood panelled walls, ships lamps and sails on the ceiling is an institution. It’s famous for its fishy melange called “Parillada”, mixed grilled fish and seafood marinated in garlic and olive oil. The bar opens at 04.00 – early birds take note! Check the website for details (the restaurant is closed Saturdays) and book in advance if you can as this place is very popular with locals. Find it in the fishing district called Capécure. www.Le-Chatillon.com

Locals love: Chez Jules, Place Dalton where the market is held.

Aperitif hour: The Vole Hole in rue de Lille is tiny but perfect. It’s housed in the oldest building in the town and has tables spilling onto the pavement . You’ll find it opposite the Basilica.

Where to find the best fish and chips near Calais in northern France

Useful websites

Boulogne Tourist Office website: www.boulonnaisautop.com/en; www.pas-de-calais-tourisme.com/en; www.french-weekendbreaks.co.uk

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