In the Upper Chevreuse Valley, when the sun comes out, the tops come down. Of the convertibles, I mean. That’s how you know spring is finally here. Under the dappled sunshine of the newly verdant trees, open-topped red cabriolets, sleek motorbikes and packs of colourful cyclists compete for space on the twisting, turning roads. There are castles and châteaux. Crumbling medieval abbeys and watermills. And a lovely, meandering stroll along the petits ponts of the Yvette river.

It’s a short drive from Paris, only an hour or so to the southeast. Paris is exquisite, but here, the slow-moving river bordered by undulating green hills, dotted with stone houses and church steeples is a fairytale setting. Officially known as the Parc Naturel régional Haute Vallée de Chevreuse, the area encompasses more than 25,000 hectares And there’s a lot to see.

Chevreuse

This charming petite cité médiévale, which gives its name to the valley, is home to one of the most recognisable sites in the area – the Château de la Madeleine. The castle fortress casts a protective eye on the village below from its hilltop perch, as it has done for over 1000 years. It was named for the Saint Marie-Madeleine Chapel, built in the 13th century, but unfortunately destroyed prior to the French Revolution.

Chevreuse was considered a prime position. It marked the boundary between the duchy of Normandy and France. Its prosperous tanning industry made it a wealthy town. The castle was constructed in the 11th century to keep the inhabitants safe from pillagers, and later fortified during centuries of war. Only the original stone keep remains. It is free to visit, and the main tourist office of the region, the Maison du Parc, can be found inside the castle grounds.

It’s a steep drive, cycle or climb to the top, up the sharp Chemin Jean Racine. It was named for the 16th century poet who lived in one of the castle’s towers for a while. But there’s a pleasantly shady footpath for your walk back down to the town. After visiting the small centre ville, call in to The Alchemist. At thisformer herbalist shop and now acclaimed sirop (syrup) bar and boutique, they create the most sublime concoctions. Sit outside on the terrace. Soak up the view to the Château de la Madeleine above and sip a revitalising mix of Verveine Gingembre or a sweet and refreshing Fraise à la menthe. Don’t leave without popping inside to choose from the gorgeous selection of artisanal syrups to take with you.

A little Venice in the countryside

Through the village of Chevreuse runs a tiny offshoot of the Yvette river, gently traversing timeworn cottages, ancient wash-houses, and a medieval tannery. There are 22 petits ponts, or little bridges, that span the river, crossing various pathways. A popular walk for locals and visitors, this promenade is hidden behind high fences sandwiched between the backs (or fronts) of perennial houses and a public car park. One of the best times of the year to visit is during the spring. Then blossoms and jonquils perform their brief but beautiful annual display. Or summer, when the hydrangeas cascade over the tiny bridges. It’s not unusual to see amateur painters with their easels and half-finished canvases on the path.

The walk is not long, less than a kilometre and perfect for a Sunday stroll. When you cross the canal there is also a chance to explore the tannery building. It made Chevreuse its fortune for many centuries, and now is used as an exhibition hall. Close to the pretty stone bridge in the centre of the chemin you’ll find a wooden lavoir, or public wash house, long since abandoned.

Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay

the Abbaye des Vaux Cernay was beautifully restored by the outrageously wealthy Rothschild family in the late 19th century. The buildings and extensive grounds are the perfect setting for a peaceful wander on a sunny spring afternoon. Read more about the abbey

Château de Breteuil

The graceful Château de Breteuil has been in the hands of the same family for over 300 years. The grand house itself dates to the 18th century. One hundred years later it was host to a secret meeting between the French government and the future King Edward VII. But it’s the gardens of this lovely locale, classified jardins remarquable, which make it an unmissable stop on your tour of the Haute Vallée de Chevreuse. Read more about the Chateau de Breteuil 

Discover Nature

If you love to get out and about in nature, there are hundreds of walking trails criss-crossing the Haute Vallée de Chevreuse. They range from a few kilometres to an all-day hike. The valley includes part of the ancient forest of Rambouillet. In this former hunting ground of French kings, you can still see wild sangliers and graceful deer through the whispering trees. Close to the Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay is a large network of paths. Many of them converge on the sparkling green Étang des Cernay, from where the monks replenished their water supply. A little further on, you can view the cascades which powered the Petit Moulin de Cernay. The sandstone under your feet is lucky to be there. In the beginning of the 19th century, much of it was excavated and sent by train to Paris to become its cobblestoned streets.

Eat local produce

You won’t even need to pack your picnic lunch on your day in the valley. Whether you’re in the car, on foot or on your bike, stop in one of the tiny village boulangeries for a warm and fresh baguette. And nip to La Ferme de Coubertin for a round (or two) of cheese. This locally recognised farm raises its own cows and goats and makes award winning cheeses of all varieties. Make sure you pick up some flavoured yoghurt for your dessert.

For something a little bit different, yet completely French, why not visit a snail farm? Snails are not just for the tourist restaurants in Paris. They are a popular dish in their own right all over France, especially at Christmas. The Ferme de Fanon, in Senlisse, emblematic of the Valley region, has been raising their own snails for almost 20 years. The thousands of snails here snack daily on fresh parsley, shallots and garlic for around 14 months, before they are sent off to restaurants or sold in the small boutique store on the farm. It is also possible to take a tour of the farm, before you head home with your chewy snails for dinner.

Other highlights of the Chevreuse Valley region:

Domaine de Dampierre

 This magnificent château dominates the small village of Dampierre. The château itself has been under restoration for several years now. But it’s a beautiful walk around the estate with its magical pond and 17th century outbuildings.

Port Royal des Champs

Port Royal des Champs is the sister Abbey to Vaux-de-Cernay.  Not a great deal which remains of this 13th century nunnery. Largely destroyed under Louis XIV because of religious conflict, later buildings were used as a school, or to keep the memory of the abbey alive. Located in Magny-les-Hameaux, the ruins are a tranquil place to spend an afternoon. Some of the buildings have been converted to a museum.

Rambouillet

This restored château, former royal palace and now one of the official residences of the French President. It has seen the likes of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, Napoléon Bonaparte and Josephine, plus Emmanuel and Brigitte Macron. In the sweeping grounds, which include an artificial lake populated with white swans and geese, is a marbled dairy built for Marie Antoinette. There is also an ethereal shell cottage designed for the Princess de Lamballe before she was tragically executed in the French Revolution. Close by is also the Bergerie Nationale. Sheep have been raised here for several hundred years and is a fantastic place for children.

www.parc-naturel-chevreuse.fr

Melissa Barndon lives in an old woodshed in the Yvelines department with her French husband and two children. She thinks there is no better place to be than France for its rich and turbulent past. Her blog MadameMellissane.com is about the delights of French history.

More Fabulous day trips from Paris

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Ten magnificent cities you can visit on a day trip from Paris

The post The charms of the Chevreuse Valley near Paris appeared first on The Good Life France.

To the west of Paris in the neighbouring department of Yvelines lies glorious countryside. It’s very different from its city neighbour and pretty villages and castles dot the landscape. In the area known as the Haute Vallée de Chevreuse, the graceful Château de Breteuil has been in the hands of the same family for over 300 years. The grand house itself dates to the 18th century, and one hundred years later would play host to a secret meeting between the French government and the future King Edward VII. But it’s the gardens of this lovely locale, classified jardins remarquable, which make it an unmissable stop on your visit to this area and makes for a fabulous day trip from Paris.

Gardens of the Chateau de Breteuil

There’s a classic French garden with a miroir d’eau or a reflecting pond lined with white marble statues, a smooth lawn and mosaic’d boxwood and topiaries. The Jardin des princes, formerly known as the English garden and renamed in honour of the secret meeting mentioned above, is truly delightful. In 1904, the Entente Cordiale between England and France was signed here. 23 years before, secret meetings with the then Prince of Wales and leading French figures took place to lay the foundations for the agreement.  Behind this walled garden is a cacophony of colour and fragrance – pink and white blossoms herald the beginning of spring, daffodils, tulips and snowdrops surge delicately from the rich soil, and the heady scent of roses assails the senses.

Visit in spring and stand under the white cherry trees in full blossom for a wonderful photo. Or sit on an old stone bench and inhale this romantic, heavenly garden. An entrancing labyrinth entertains both young and old. And waiting in the centre of the maze is Old Mother Goose.

Magical

There’s more to this château than just history and elegant gardens. For children, it’s pure magic. Charles Perrault was a famous fairy tale author from the 17th century, and a great friend of a long-dead lord of Breteuil, and scenes from eight of his most famous fairy tales can be found all over the outbuildings of the château grounds.

Look in on Cinderella in the stables getting dressed for the royal ball, watch out for the murderous Bluebeard, or keep an eye on Sleeping Beauty in her enchanted slumber. And don’t forget to be on your guard when Little Red Riding Hood arrives at her grandmother’s cottage, the fearsome wolf is lurking. There’s a fantastic playground in the grounds, with slides and climbing equipment, and benches in the shade if you want to bring your picnic lunch. The Château de Breteuil is open throughout the year, but the fairytales are only on Sundays and in school holidays. Details: www.breteuil.fr/en 

Discover the romantic ruins and magical fountain at the nearby Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay

Explore the Vallee de la Chevreuse

www.parc-naturel-chevreuse.fr

Melissa Barndon lives in an old woodshed in the Yvelines department with her French husband and two children. She thinks there is no better place to be than France for its rich and turbulent past. Her blog MadameMellissane.com is about the delights of French history.

More Fabulous day trips from Paris

Gourgeous villages you can easily visit in a day from Paris

Chateaux you can visit on a day trip by train from Paris

Ten magnificent cities you can visit on a day trip from Paris

The post Château de Breteuil, Vallée de Chevreuse appeared first on The Good Life France.

 

Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay

Beautifully restored by the outrageously wealthy Rothschild family in the late 19th century, the buildings and extensive grounds of the Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay are the perfect setting for a peaceful wander on a sunny afternoon. Only the shell of the ancient abbey remains, but one can imagine coloured shards of sunlight streaming through the rounded rose window a thousand years ago. Now, the ravages of time and greenery have taken their toll. The abbey was long associated with the pious Saint Thibault, abbot of the monastery in 1235. A famous legend rose up around the fountain in the abbey grounds. It’s said that after the infertile King Louis IX and his wife Marguerite of Provence were invited by St Thibault to drink the water at this miraculous fountain (above). They went on to have eleven children.

A perfect place to stroll

The Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay is now run as a luxury hotel and function centre. But you can visit the ruins and the fountain and walk around the lake at your leisure (it’s free during the week). On Sundays there are guided tours of the grounds. If you’re looking for some fine French dining, take your seat amongst the vaulted arches in the restored priory which is now La Table du Prieur. When the weather is lovely, drinks and delicate pastries can be purchased from the tearooms. Sit on the paved terrasse and contemplate life with a view of the captivating abbey.

Discover the Vallee de Chevreuse

The Chateau de Breteuil, Valley de Chevreuse

parc-naturel-chevreuse.fr

Melissa Barndon lives in an old woodshed in the Yvelines department with her French husband and two children. She thinks there is no better place to be than France for its rich and turbulent past. Her blog MadameMellissane.com is about the delights of French history.

More Fabulous day trips from Paris

Gourgeous villages you can easily visit in a day from Paris

Chateaux you can visit on a day trip by train from Paris

Ten magnificent cities you can visit on a day trip from Paris

The post Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay appeared first on The Good Life France.

Versailles, just 12 miles from Paris is home to the most famous castle in the world. But there’s more to this fabulous town than the chateau and most visitors miss out.

Here are our top 10 things to do in Versailles…

Palace of Versailles

Of course you can’t go to Versailles and not see the world famous chateau created by King Louis XIV after he visited the Chateau of Vaux-le-Vicomte and was inspired by (and jealous of) it’s beauty.  It is absolutely magnificent and is one of the most visited sites in France.

Extravagant, glitzy and glamorous, the rooms look just as they did on the fateful morning of October 6, 1789 when a mob arrived to drag the King and Queen to Paris.

The Hall of Mirrors, the Queen’s Hamlet, the Trianons, wonderful furnishings, exquisite tapestries and paintings – it is even better in real life than you could possibly imagine. More on the Chateau of Versailles…

However, there’s Loads more to see and do in the town of Versailles.

Wander the streets of the town

The town of Versailles is well worth your time. Frankly, if it were anywhere else, visitors would love it for its splendid houses and grand buildings even without the Chateau. But, overshadowed by the monumental castle, it’s easy to miss the fact that there is history everywhere and lots to see and do. Pop into the Lambinet museum which is located in a grand mansion built in 1751. It has a great exhibition of paintings and decorative arts objects from clocks to snuff boxes. And there’s a collection dedicated to the French Revolution. Many of the rooms retain their original fittings and the museum is worth visiting for that reason alone (54, rue du Boulevard de la Reine).

Visit Versailles market

While you’re in Versailles, whatever you do, don’t miss the fantastic Versailles market. How it hasn’t been voted top market in France is beyond me. Marché Notre Dame was created in the early 1600s and it’s the second largest food market in France. Open every day except Monday, it’s brimming with shoppers. The smell of spices, oranges, cooked chickens and fantastic street food is superb. Go through the historic pavilions which serve as indoor markets and when you come out on the other side, you’ll discover little squares lined with cafés full of locals.

Versailles Cathedral

Considered a French national monument, Versailles Cathedral is the seat of the Bishop of Versailles. The architect was Jacques Hardouin-Mansart de Sagonne (1711-1778). He was the grandson of the famous architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart, who amongst much else, designed the Petit Trianon. It looms majestically over a large square, and if you’re lucky enough to be there when the bells are rung, it’s a moment you’ll remember.

The Chateau gardens

The Gardens of Versailles cover 800 hectares of land consisting of formal gardens, manicured lawns and grand fountains. In summer months, water shows are performed in the evening (you’ll need to book tickets). You can visit the gardens for free and it’s very popular with locals who love to have a picnic here or take boat rides on the famous canal.

The Gallery of Coaches

Just across the street from the palace in the former royal stables is now the Gallery of Coaches. You’ll find a collection composed of grand ceremonial Berlin Coaches for special occasions. It includes the coach used for the marriage of Napoléon I and the baptism of the Duke of Bordeaux. There’s also the coach used for the coronation of Charles X and for the funeral of Louis XVIII. The decadent and highly ornamental vehicles were made by hand using the best sculptors, embroiderers, cabinetmakers, and metal workers of the time. They really are quite extraordinary. The Gallery of Coaches: 1 Avenue Rockefeller, 78000

The King’s Vegetable Garden

A short walk from the Palace of Versailles you’ll find the “King’s Vegetable Garden” – the Potager du Roi. The stunning walled garden was built between 1678 and 1683 by French gardening genius Jean-Baptiste La Quintinie, at the request of Louis XIV. Not only gardeners, but anyone who loves beautiful gardens, will love its beautiful paths, raised beds, statues and fabulous planting. Read more about The Potager du Roi here.

Enjoy an equestrian show

In the 1600’s, “Horse Ballets” at the court of Louis XIV were all the rage. The king always appeared dressed as the sun, furthering his image as the center of the French universe and most of the nobles at court were expected to participate. In the spirit of the past, an equestrian academy resides in the Grand Écuries of the Chateau de Versailles. They were originally built in 1679 and finished in 1683. These huge stables, as well as smaller ones known as the  Petites Écurie were created to house the Sun King’s 600 horses. Now there are around 35 horses from Lusitania, Portugal and Argentina living here. Each weekend they perform in a beautiful 17th century hall decorated with Murano mirrors putting on a sublime show. Read our review here

Party at the Castle

It might surprise you to know that every year, the chateau hosts a ball that’s open to the public. You need to book tickets well in advance, and dress in appropriate baroque costumes. Masks are de rigeur. Music and dancing until dawn! Channel your inner Cinderella or Prince Charming and enjoy the palace just as the royals did with a party night to remember.

And, did you know that Versailles has a private opera house? King Louis XV commissioned the construction of his own opera house in 1768 by his architect in residence Ange Jacques Gabriel. The opera house was inaugurated in 1770 for the marriage of the Dauphin (soon to be King Louis XVI) and his bride the Archduchess Marie Antoinette. The majestic, small gem of only 702 seats is open for public performances.

en.chateauversailles.fr; Details of events at the chateau: www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr

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Cergy and Pontoise are towns in France that blend to provide a cultural hint of Paris – just down the road. They are situated about 30 kilometres to the north-west of the capital and both towns retain a distinct, individual identity. They lie below the southern edge of the Vexin French Regional National Park. This vast estate is a symbol of ecological evolution emerging from the vast hoard of local natural resources. Opportunities for sports, cycling, walking and ‘green living’ are in abundance there.

In 2004 Cergy and Pontoise, along with ten other smaller centres, became an official ‘agglomeration community’. Together they form a very interesting location to visit. Cergy- Pontoise is officially a ‘Ville d’Art et d’histoire’ implying a major role in the urbanity of France.

The association with Paris is very strong. Cergy-Pontoise is the second French home of impressionist art. Camille Pissarro spent many years living and painting there. Many of his greatest works depict the peace and beauty of French country living. Paul Cezanne was also a great contributor of similar artistic subjects originating from Pontoise. Pissarro and Cezanne were mutual admirers and many of their original works are exhibited in the town.

Cergy-Pontoise was also the origin for many life changing national events that occurred during the Franco Prussian War. This war resulted from Germany’s ambition to expand its territory in the nineteenth century. Germany had occupied all of north eastern France and was bent on advancing into Paris City itself. The history is presented in a number of museums in the agglomeration community. Cergy-Pontoise is a rather curious and understated offshoot of the wider France of today. It presents a poignant contribution to French history, culture and society. It also presents the reality of a much gentler market town environment and slower pace of urban life. These two principal towns are bound together eternally by a smooth bend of the river Oise that provides a form of mutual communication.

Pontoise

A sound place to begin a visit is from the main station in Pontoise town. Leave by the main exit and you are faced with the market. Beyond it, up the hill, rests St. Maclou Catholic Cathedral, a grand structure awhich surveys the town centre beneath it. The Church was elevated to Cathedral status in 1966 when Pontoise became a Diocese and is an official ‘National Monument of France’. The construction began in the 12^th. Century and it retains many architectural features of ancient note.

St. Maclou is close to the surviving fortifications or ramparts of the town. They can be visited via a series of steps and within them there is much to relish. A museum presenting many of the paintings of Camille Pissarro is located in a grand bourgeois house on top of the walls. The works of many other artists from Pissarro’s period are also exhibited. The museum offers lofty views of the energetic River Oise, a powerful tributary of the Seine, flowing through the town on its way towards Cergy.  Just next door to the museum, visitors can find the garden of the ‘five senses’. All of the plants growing are labelled by signs written in Braille. Their scents can be very easily identified and appreciated by people with visual difficulties. This little corner of the ramparts occupied by the museum and the garden is a wonderfully ‘cosy’ location with stunning views of the town centre spread out below.

Pontoise ‘centre ville’ is also home to two other significant art museums  featuring contemporary works.  The Travet Delacour museum is in a 15^th. Century listed building in the town centre. The structure is an interesting art form in itself. The other museum is on the edge of town beyond the bridge over the river. It is in the medieval Maubuisson Abbey and is a must to visit. The building itself presents many ancient features that blend so well with the contemporary art works sheltered by them.

Cergy

Take a regular bus from Pontoise station or walk along the uninterrupted 5km pathway running alongside the river.  The view of the river and the natural countryside is magnificent. and the path leads directly to the enticing Port of Cergy.

This port is the biggest marina in the Paris area providing berthing to many privately owned and extravagant vessels. The port is also home to numerous restaurants, cafes, pubs and terraces. Visitors can  walk across a bridge to enjoy the tranquillity of leisure locations and natural lake park lands wtith a view of the dynamic form of La Defense in Paris.

Axe Majeur

Cergy village itself is quiet, peaceful and feels quite isolated from the rest of the working planet. On the northern edge of the town though, visitors will find another great feature of Gallic cultural evolution. It is a vast, contemporary and architectural symbol called the Axe Majeur.

Cergy-Pontoise is about art and architecture from recent history but also about evolution and change in present times. Cergy-Pontoise presents itself as a guardian of ecology. It confronts the emerging realisation that we have to face about climate change and new life styles. Looking at this place with a view of old Paris on the horizon makes for a sobering to contemplation.

This collection of associated suburban living centres is easy to travel to from Paris. The RER line C can be taken from a number of departure points in the Capital and takes about 30-40 minutes.

Bob Lyons is a former pilot turned travel writer.

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The Axe Majeur is a monumental, immensely grand, work of art. At 3.2km long it is extraordinary despite not being complete according to the original plans. And somehow, despite it’s size, the Axe Majeur on the edge of Paris is hardly known outside of France…

Cergy village on the outskirts of Paris is quiet, peaceful and almost feels removed from the rest of the working planet. On the northern edge of the town though, visitors will find an immense, enigmatic feature of Gallic cultural evolution. It is a vast, contemporary and architectural symbol called the Axe Majeur.

There are twelve components to this sprawling ‘Major Axis’.  The construction extends from the top of the town centre all the way down to an astronomical island feature in the river Oise well below in the valley. It starts high up with a great, bright white architectural crescent of contemporary buildings surrounding a tall viewing tower or belvedere which you can climb. At 36m high it offers fabulous, panoramic views over the Ile de France.

It moves on through gardens commemorating the impressionist artists and the establishment of the principal of human rights. As the terrain falls downwards towards the river, there are 12 arching columns to accentuate the view of the Oise river and Paris beyond. Steps down to an amphitheatre and a bright red elongated footbridge extending to the river basin complete the magnificent effect.

This architectural symbol represents a modern and natural urban landscape. The twelve features and the twelve columns symbolise time, the pace of human life and the very planet itself. It is a very modern monument, a shrine almost, to a contemporary 21^st. Century France. It is an enormous and impressive feature built to last for all time. The linear positioning of the symbols have been aligned with the Champs de Mars that radiates outwards from the Eiffel tower in the centre of Paris.

In daily life it is a vibrant place for a promenade, a great place to relax and enjoy the views and a place where concerts and entertainment has the most amazing backdrop.

The Axe Majeur is served directly by St. Christophe station in Cergy. You can’t miss it  – at the station entrance you will find the biggest clock face in Europe.

You may not understand the Axe Majeur but, it’s unlikely you won’t be impressed…

Website for Axe Majeur

Bob Lyons is a pilot turned travel writer who adores France. 

The post Axe Majeur An Architectural Masterpiece Near Paris appeared first on The Good Life France.

From May this year, the legendary Champs-Elysees Paris will be pedestrianised 1st Sunday of each month.

Paris city authorities announced in February 2016 that from May 2016, one of the most famous avenues in the world will go traffic free on the first Sunday of the month.

From Sunday 8th May visitors will find the Champs-Elysees the perfect place to wander and admire the buildings and the views from the Arc du Triomphe right down to the bottom of this long avenue.

The first Sunday of each month is also “Museum Day” in France, with many museums opening to the public for free though some of the bigger venues, such as the Louvre only operate this scheme out of high season.

The council of Paris is planning a further nine areas named “Paris Respire” comprised of pedestrian streets to be available on Sundays and national holidays. There are already 13 pedestrianised areas and it is hoped that the new areas will be read for summer 2016.

Throughout the year, the “Paris Respire” programme allows neighbourhood to breathe in the following arrondissements (shown in numbers):

Banks of the Seine (1st / 4th): Along the banks of the Seine on Sundays and public holidays, from 9h to 17h, all year. On the right bank, Georges Pompidou road from the entrance of the underground Tuileries (1st) to the Charles de Gaulle bridge (12th).

Quartier Sentier (2e) (2nd): On Sundays and public holidays from 10am to 18pm all year until 19h in summer.

Marais district (3rd / 4th): Every Sunday from 10am to 18pm all year, until 19:30 in summer. Read more about the Marais District.

Quartier Mouffetard (5th): On Sundays and public holidays from 10am to 18pm all year.

Rue des Martyrs district (9th): Every Sunday from 10h to 14h all year.

Trudaine Avenue district (9th): Every Sunday and holidays from 14h to 18h until 19h in summer.

District Canal Saint-Martin (10th): On Sundays and public holidays from 10am to 18pm all year until 20h in summer.

Quartier Aligre (12th): Every Sunday from 10h to 14h, all year

Bois de Vincennes (12th): Every Sunday and holidays from 9 am to 18 pm all year until 20h in summer.

Rue Daguerre district (14th): On Sundays and public holidays from 10am to 18pm all year.

Bois de Boulogne (16th): Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from 9am to 18pm all year. Quartier rue du Poteau (18th): Every Sunday from 10h to 14h, all year. (Check website below for details).

Quartier Montmartre (18th): On Sundays and public holidays from 11h to 18h all year.

Find out more about “Paris Respire” with maps showing pedestrianised areas.

Museums in France free on the first Sunday of the month (with some exceptions in peak tourist season)
History of the Champs-Elysees – not that long ago, this famous road was fields where royalty hunted.

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Like many people who travel to the south of France from the north, we had, before moving here, skirted Paris and took the ring road around Chartres, heading south. Here you’ll find the Cathedral of Chartres, also known as the Cathedral of our Lady of  Chartres. Loving mysteries I knew it had a famous labyrinth and having relatives in Sussex, southern England, I knew it was twinned with Chichester Cathedral but that was all.

From the ring road, even at a distance the twin spires are a majestic sight and Chartres was much bigger than I had imagined. There was underground parking very near the Cathedral; however I must say it was not overly wheelchair friendly as my husband is disabled and the tiny lift only goes to the first floor which means a steep climb upwards. However, once out in the sunshine it was only a short walk through the charming old streets with their quaint shops and on to our destination.

Our first complete view of Chartres Cathedral was striking. It is a fine example of gothic architecture, with magnificent flying buttresses and lovely gardens in front of its impressive west facade or Portail Royal. There was a ramp for easy wheelchair access and as we entered, we were immediately impressed by the 176 amazing 12^th and 13^th century stained glass windows, including the western rose, which depicts the Last Judgement, the north rose which is dedicated to the Virgin, and the southern rose, which is dedicated to Christ. With clever foresight the beautiful stained glass windows had been removed for protection in 1939 before Germany invaded France, then cleaned and re-leaded before being replaced after WWII.

In the centre of the widest nave in France is the famous labyrinth (maze) which is 320 yards (290 meters) long and is the only one surviving in France. I had wanted to see the labyrinth since I had read a story called The Rose Labyrinth, in which it is featured. Unfortunately, it was covered in chairs on the day of our visit but we could still see it, I have since learnt that it is uncovered on Fridays.

The monumental screen, depicting various religious scenes carved from stone, which surrounds the choir is quite beautiful and adorning the altar is a magnificent marble statue of The Assumption.

You could stand for hours looking at the stained glass, the tiny chapels and the intricate stonework inside this Cathedral, is well worth the visit.

Leaving through the main entrance, we ordered coffee and I popped back to the car for our Border Collie Toby. Sitting outside the tearoom in the sunshine, we thoroughly enjoyed our grande crème whilst admiring the incredibly beautiful carved stonework on the south facade.

Of course, we had to do a little shopping in the gift shops, where we discovered a postcard with an amazing mosaic house, another must visit place in Chartres, La Maison Picassiette. We leisurely wandered back through the streets to the car park, stopping for an ice-cream on the way and only then discovered that La Maison Picassiette was in fact on the other side of Chartres and closing in 15 minutes. Oh well, we will just have to go back another time…

Visit the Cathedral of Chartres website for more information

See some wonderful photographs on the UNESCO World Heritage website

By Susan Keefe

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The Île-de-France Region includes 1,281 towns and eight departments. It also includes the administrative centre of the region and country’s capital – Paris. Île-de-France is the most populated of France’s mainland regions and one in five births in France takes place in this area.

The climate in the Île-de-France is quite similar to that of England however it has warmer summers, milder winters and less rain.

Île-de-France is the most visited tourist destination in the world and it’s easy to see why. The city of Paris offers visitors a vast array of sites, history, magnificent splendour, shopping extraordinaire, culture, gastronomy, architecture and art.  Not only that, encircling Paris is an area of historic splendour and extravagant chateaux including the Chateau de Versailles, Chateau de Fontainebleau and Chateau de Chantilly.

There are many reasons to visit Paris, for some it’s a romantic venture and takes in the Eiffel Tower, a boat ride on the Seine, Notre Dame, Mont Martre; for others it’s the fashion and shops of the Champs Elysees. For more yet it is the art of the Louvre, the Pompidou centre and Musée d’Orsay; or it could be the restaurants which offer such a wide choice of the best of French food, pavement cafés and people watching.

Getting around in Paris is not difficult, walking anywhere means that visitors see more but the City’s underground train system – the Metro, is easy to use and very cheap. The Seine River affords the opportunity to travel by boat and it’s an excellent way to see the sites and soak up the atmosphere.

The capital city of France has a rich array of art collections, museums, theatres, churches, restaurants, chic hotels, and cool bars. By day a city of contrast, old and new, full of charm and character; by night the streets are alive with colours and vitality as the theatres, nightclubs and shows have their turn to dazzle.

Things to do in Île-de-France

Visit the Chateau de Fontainebleu and the Chateau de Chantilly.

Go to the opera, the ballet, a show.

Take a day time cruise along the Seine and see the sites in comfort or a night time cruise and be wowed by the city lit up at night.

Shop until you drop on the Champs Elysees and stop for a coffee at a pavement café to people watch or have hot chocolate and macaroons at Ladurée.

Take time out and visit Disneyland Paris for some enchantment and magic with the family.

Have tea or a glass of champagne at the George Cinq hotel and marvel at the uber luxurious lobby (the hotel spends about  1$m on flowers each year).

Top Ten attractions of Paris

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