Friendship, gastronomy, elegance, magic: Diner en Blanc Paris is the chic-est annual gathering the world has ever seen. It is the pique-nique of pique-niques. A giant sea of laughing faces and popping champagne corks.

A magical night: Le Dîner en Blanc celebrated 30 years in 2018

On June 3rd 2018 the world’s biggest organized pop-up picnic, the exclusive Dîner en Blanc – Dinner in White, toasted its 30th anniversary in Paris. On this occasion it opened the doors for the first time to the international community.

The rules are simple: everyone must dress in white from head to toe. Elegance is essential and originality a plus.

Arriving by two’s, guests bring their own gourmet picnics, table decorations such as candles and flowers. Again, everything – from the table and chairs to dishes – must be white. No plastic or paper dishes and utensils allowed, and hard alcohol and beer are strictly forbidden. And no T-shirts, colorful sports shoes, baseball caps or shorts. Participants are required to pick up all of their litter when everything wraps up around midnight, leaving the site as if no one was ever there.

The location is kept secret until almost the last minute when a series of texts is sent out to thousands all over the city who’ve been waiting in patient anticipation. And that’s when suddenly, from seemingly out of nowhere, people toting baskets and tables behind them begin to converge on the designated spot. On this evening, many arrived on foot, and from all directions. Some spilled out of large coaches, others from private cars, limos, taxis and ubers. Some straddled motorcycles, their supplies strapped behind them. Others skate-boarded in, all happily headed towards the same destination. As every year, not even the authorities had been let in on where it would be. 2018’s surprise location: the magnificent esplanade of the Hôtel des Invalides.

How did Diner en Blanc begin?

It all began in the 1980s when founder and organiser Francois Pasquier, returned to France from Tahiti with his family, wanted to celebrate with friends and decided to host a picnic in Paris’ vast Bois de Boulogne. To make it easier to find each other, everyone agreed to dress completely in white. It was such a success that they decided to repeat it the following year, and the next… and eventually, the guest list exceeded more than one thousand.

On the anniversary, 30 years later, a record turnout – 17,000 people; 6,000 from the international community, celebrated, quite literally, in style.

Now held in cities the world over, the Dîner en Blanc is a unique event that pays homage to beauty, conviviality, friendship, and taste.

Vive Le Dîner en Blanc!

Barbara Pasquet James is a U.S. lifestyle editor, speaker, and urban explorer who writes about food fashion and culture, from Paris. She is known for helping launch, write and edit USA Today’s City Guide To Paris and can be contacted via her photo blog FocusOnParis.com

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When it comes to night life, you’re totally spoiled in Paris. Bars, cafés, restaurants, cinema, theatre, late night openings at museums and galleries, concerts and a whole heap more. And when it comes to clubs, Paris is a-buzz. We take a look at some of the best clubs in the most surprising and extraordinary locations…

Party on a boat in Paris

Rosa Bonheur sur Seine is a converted barge moored close to the iconic Pont Alexandre III. As you sway gently on the water – enjoy a cool beer, wine or deliciously mixed cocktail and snack food. In summer months tables spill out onto the river bank walk way where the terrace is home to the world’s 8th largest wood-fired pizza oven. Music, concerts, dancing and a fab, fun atmosphere.

Night Owls in summer

La Boumettte is an extraordinary and free (before midnight) summer only club at the prestigious Opera Garnier. With an outdoor terrace, music and DJs it’s an exceptional night out. Details:  Saturdays 22.00-05.30 May to September. La Paillotte de l’Opera, 1 place Jacques Rouche 75009 Paris 

Arty Party

Music and visual arts can be enjoyed at the Glazart club in the Villette (northern Paris) area. Party tracks, a bar with comfy chairs and a terrific cultural vibe make this an authentic venue. Think fun and funky with a happy, noisy ambiance. From June to September La Plage Glazart is the place to go for the pop up beach with summer of love music, live concerts and food trucks.

Le Reservoir

Le Reservoir Mary DeVivo is located in a converted forge near  the Bastille area. Here you’ll enjoy great music, original and gorgeous baroque decoration, a friendly ambiance, plus an excellent restaurant. Hostess Mary DeVivo invites artists from all walks of life to jam sessions (or as the French say Faire le boeuf – make beef). The annual Festival Génération Réservoir helps talented young musicians to reach a wider audience. There’s always something going on and there’s a year round full programme of events.

Le Grand Rex – Europe’s biggest cinema

The biggest cinema in Europe, Le Grand Rex is an art deco monument to the early 1930s when it was built. It attracts a million cinema goers every year. There are concerts as well with bands of international repute as well as home grown. In the basement, the Rex Club has been wowing clubbers for 25 years in its cavernous dance area. They play an eclectic mix of music (especially electro) and host international DJs. A fantastic sound system and friendly atmosphere make this one of the best dance clubs in the city.

More on Paris

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5 romantic places to pucker up in Paris!
3 utterly brilliant English language book stores in Paris
Some of the best places in Paris to enjoy a chic cocktail

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There are thousands of terrace bars in Paris and one of the joys of a visit is to find your own favourite. Everyone will find a bar that they feel suits them whether its on a busy main road or a quiet cobbled rue. Get off the beaten track and take a break in one of the secret gardens and heavenly hidden terraces in Paris and chill in your own little oasis…

10 terrace bars in Paris you’ll fall in love with

Iconic terrace bars

Café de la Paix is an institution and from its position next to the Opera Garnier, the Paris Opera House, it’s in a fabulous location. Sitting outside in the sun or under the awning when it rains is one of those Paris experiences that you’ll always remember.

Les Deux Magots has been a cafe in its Saint Germain de Pres position opposite rival Café de Flore since 1884. The word Magot comes from its former incarnation as a shop selling silk items from the far east, Magot meaning Chinese merchant in this case. Inside the cafe you’ll see the two Magots, wooden figurines. Bustling, fun and expensive but for visitors to Paris this is one of those tick box must dos.

Café de Flore has been pleasing customers for more than 130 years in its corner position on Boulevard Saint–Germain and Rue Saint-Benoît in posh Saint Germain des Pres (read more about the history of Café de Flore). Another must do for Paris visitors.

Secrets in the City

In the heart of the lively district of Pigalle, close to Montmartre is a hidden courtyard to fall in love with. Vibrant planting in the trendy outdoor bar of the Hotel Amour make this place perfect for afternoon tea as well as an evening cocktail in a stylish setting (8 Rue de Navarin, 9th Arr).

Le Bistrot des Dames: From outside, the Bistrot des dames looks like a typical Parisian cafe, but locals know that it hides a special treat. Ask to be seated on the terrace and you’ll be led to a small garden oasis. It’s an ideal respite from the noisy city atmosphere (18 Rue des Dames, Métro Place de Clichy ).

City Sensation

In a building that was formerly a convent, just steps from the Gare de l’Est train station it’s easy to miss, but here is where you’ll find the cool Café A.  It’s a tranquil outdoor café by day though far more animated at night. This inner courtyard haven has ping pong tables and refreshing drinks and is perfect to escape the crowds (148 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin).

Hipster Heights

It doesn’t get much higher than the third floor bar of the Eiffel Tower! At the Champagne Bar gives you’ll enjoy a glass of fizz while taking in incredible views of Paris, seen from an altitude of 276m.

Invisible from the street, the terrace of the Bellevilloise is only open when the weather permits. Housed in the first workers cooperative building in the city, the bar has been beautifully renovated. So, when the timing is right, head for the historic heights of this hanging garden which is oh so pretty with olive and palm trees and let the hours slip by… (19-21 Rue Boyer, 20th Arr)

Galeries Lafayette – yes it is a department store, however up on the top floor is a terrace area where you’ll get outstanding views over the city. (Where to find the best panoramic views over the city)

Bobo Hideaway

Popular with Bobos, (Bourgeois Bohemenians), l’Entrepot (The Warehouse) is a cultural venue with cinema, concerts and exhibitions. The restaurant and bar area in the shaded, bamboo planted garden and glass covered terrace is like a little sanctuary in the heart of the city. (rue Francis de Pressensé, 14th Arr).

More great bars in Paris

5 historic bars in Paris
4 bars the locals love in Paris
Best cocktail bars in Paris

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It’s no secret that Paris is the most romantic city in the world, the very best place to visit with the one you love.

But maybe you aren’t in a relationship right now. You may, however,  be in love with art, architecture, history, travel, culture, language, food, and/or fashion. And you know the City of Light offers all that, and more.

So why not go there alone?

Paris for Solo Travellers

Paris is a marvelous destination for solo travelers. Think about it. Doesn’t it seem as if the two attractions Paris is most known for, sitting in sidewalk cafés and strolling along the Seine – were designed with the solitary wanderer in mind? Museum-going, window-shopping, and people-watching are also activities that can be done on one’s own. Perhaps they are best enjoyed that way. If the solitude starts to get to you, you can always sign up for a one-day cooking class or bicycle tour.

You don’t even have to be particularly brave. Paris is one of the safest big cities in the world. Yes, you should exercise reasonable care – study your map, keep an eye on your valuables, be alert to your surroundings. But, that’s true in most places. Indeed, you may discover that once you’ve successfully traveled alone, anything in life seems possible.

Paris is a place to ramble at random

Are you, like me, an introvert? Well, you’re in luck because solo Paris is perfect for those who feel happiest and most peaceful on their own. You can ramble at random and do what you want when you want. Extroverts will naturally do their thing, knowing how easy and natural it is for singletons to strike up friendly conversations with people in cafés or shops. In fact, impromptu chats like these are often the most memorable, rewarding parts of a trip (so much so that introverts might consider giving it a try, too!).

Dining out alone in Paris

Paris is also a fabulous city for going out to eat alone. No one will think it is odd. You may even find that waiters give you extra special attention. Actually, this goes for service in general—for some reason, solo travelers seem to draw greater kindness and consideration. If you feel awkward sitting alone in a café or restaurant, take something to read. No one will think that’s odd either.

Best of all, you’ll find that traveling alone intensifies the experience. With no distractions, it will be just you and Paris. You will perceive everything more directly and more vividly.

We think of Paris as the destination for couples in love. But if you yearn to visit Paris and haven’t met The One yet – go by yourself. It could be the start of a beautiful relationship. Next time, when you do travel there with your sweetheart, you will know all the best places.

Karen Burns, who has made many solo trips to Paris, is the author of The Paris Effect (Velvet Morning Press 2016). She has taken many solo trips to Paris and her book tells the tale of an American woman who goes Paris alone, has many adventures and ultimately discovers a Paris few tourists ever see.

Read our review of The Paris Effect by Karen Burns

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You booked a trip in Paris and then it rains. But you shouldn’t worry that it will ruin your visit even though when you booked your ticket you probably thought the weather would be sunny!

Ten things to do in Paris when it rains

Paris weather is unpredictable and even in summer rain is not unusual. There’s plenty to do in this city of history, culture and art and here are 10 of my favourite things to do in Paris when it’s wet.

1. Visit department stores

Printemps, Galeries Lafayette, Le Bon Marche and Colette are not just about shopping; they have great cafés and architecture too!

2. Visit Museums

There are loads to choose from, don’t miss some of the  less known museum of Paris,  like Musée Galliera (fashion), Musée de la Mode et du Costume (fashion), Musée de Montmartre (arts) and La Maison du Victor Hugo. And, when you decide to visit La Maison de Victor Hugo, don’t forget to treat yourself afterwards to delicious pastries at Café Carette in Place des Vosges. The Orsay Museum is always great whatever the weather!

Check out 5 great free museums in Paris

3. Covered Passages

The shopping galleries of Paris are under cover and often utterly gorgeous like Passage Verdeau, Passage de Jouffroy, Passage des Panoramas (the oldest passage of Paris!), and Galeries Vivienne et Colbert.

4. Watch a movie

Buy the “Periscope” to see what movies you can enjoy in the little theaters of Paris, some of them are historic, quirky and quaint which really adds to your viewing pleasure!

5. Relax at a Cafe

Enjoy your drink and food and a good book or magazine. For example at Angelina’s with its lovely Belle Epoque decor and they serve delicious chocolat.

6. Enjoy the Arcades

The covered walkways of Paris streets are so charming, stroll the arcades of the Palais Royale and the rue de Rivoli for a memorable wander.

7. Find a flea market

The best in town are at the Marche aux puces de Saint-Ouen where you’ll find hundreds of places to browse for a bargain.

8. Glorious greenhouses

Visit the greenhouses in the Jardin des Plantes, where you can walk through a tropical atmosphere.

9. Bobbing along

Take a boat trip on the river Seine. Paris seen from the water is wonderful!

10. Wander…

Last but not least…Paris is beautiful when it rains. Buy an umbrella, take a stroll and enjoy the wonderful views.

By Darina Nykl who lives in Holland where she works in a hospital and is an author. She blogs about the stories she is writing which are mostly set in Amsterdam, Paris, Provence and the Cote d’Azur, places that inspire her: darinanykl.com

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If you only have a day or a weekend in Paris, you’ll want to make the most of your time and see the most iconic sites. I’m often asked for my tips for what to see when you only have a short window of time, so here are my top ten Paris visits – iconic but also authentic Paris. You probably won’t get round them all in a day, well unless you don’t sleep, but two days, it’s just about doable. Of course longer is better so you can take your time and really get to experience this great city.

1. Montmartre

This hilly area of Paris is a must see. This is where the famous street artists ply their trade in and around Place du Tertre and I recommend you wander all around the little streets, and gaze at Sacré-Coeur. Perch on the legendary steps of Montmartre for amazing views over the city. Read about the artists of Montmartre.

2. Musee d’Orsay

Much smaller than the Louvre, less queuing and this former railway station turned museum is truly beautiful with wonderful collections. If you go on a Tuesday lunchtime (October to April) you can listen to a concert and the ticket for the music covers entry to the museum too! Music at the Orsay.

3. A famous café

Yes a cliché but it has to be done! You could go for coffee at Les Deux Magots or Café de Flore, not that far from the Musee d’Orsay. They are iconic (also known as expensive!) and you’ll have a memory to cherish.

4. Eiffel Tower

Of course! You can’t go to Paris without seeing the Iron Lady and, if you’re not scared of heights – head for the top. When dusk falls the tower it lit up and twinkles on the hour for 5 minutes inducing gasps from watching crowds! Tip, book your ticket online to save queuing.

5. Rue Mouffetard

Go here for the morning market and the echoes of the past and to follow in the footsteps of Ernest Hemingway who lived there. Read more about ancient, beautiful rue Mouffetard.

6. The area around the Louvre

I love to walk from the rue de Rivoli and the Jardins de Tuileries in front of the Louvre to Notre Dame along the Seine with the second hand book sellers and the sites en route. You’ll pass streets that cry out to be explored, plenty of places to stop for a coffee break or hot chocolate at Angelina’s Tea Room in rue de Rivoli. This way you’ll really get a real feel for this picturesque part of the city.

7. Notre Dame and the flower market

Okay, two things here but they’re close to each other! Most people miss the flower market, they’re simply not aware it’s there but it’s just a stone’s throw from the famous church. It’s lovely at dusk with the bells ringing and the flower kiosks lit up, the perfect place for a hot chocolate break or an aperitif in one of the many cafés.

8. Shopping in Paris

If you like shopping, the Champs-Elysées is expensive but fun. I like to walk the length of the avenue admiring the posh shops and the dressed up shoppers then stop at the bottom at the Petit Palais for a cup of tea or coffee – it’s a free museum with gorgeous gardens! If you only have time for a couple of shops – make it Printemps for the shopping and the view from the roof top café and Galeries Lafayette for the shopping and the amazing glass dome. Read where to get the view sky line views in Paris

9. Palais Garnier

When it’s raining, and even if it’s not, a backstage tour of the Paris Opera House is always lovely and great fun to know you’re in the home of the Phantom of the Opera!

10. Latin Quarter

Eating out in Paris is a joy, there’s so much choice so how do you pick where to go, do you base it on location, fame, the quality of food, budget, some or of all them. Only you know that but for sheer can’t beat it uniquenes, it has to be Le Procope, the oldest café in the world. Past diners include Robespierre who held revolutionary meetings there, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson and Napoleon (who left his hat as a guarantee he would pay his bill). Le Procope opened in 1686, starter & main menu is about Euros 21.50. For looks, choice, history and fun – you can’t beat the Latin Quarter where some of the streets are a foodie paradise like rue Saint Severin and rue Galande,  you’ll thank me for this tip I promise you!

More on Paris
5 of the most romantic places to kiss in Paris
5 Brilliant free museums in Paris
5 off the beaten track things to see in Paris – including the medieval house of a Harry Potter character!
See Paris at night in this utterly ravishing video

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There are thousands of bars and restaurants in Paris, some are known around the world like the Café de Flore or Les Deux Magots, famous for those who once drank there. But these are not the places where Parisians go to relax at the end of the day. So, if you’re looking for an authentic bar or restaurant, one that the locals love and frequent, here are four fab bars and restaurants in Paris you could easily miss but are sure to love.

Hotel OFF Paris Seine

For something really different, this converted catamaran is a place that makes you stop in your tracks. It’s the first floating hotel in Paris, moored on the left bank and well located for transport right by Gare de Lyon and Gare d’Austerlitz. It’s a two storey hotel that’s been renovated in style with suites over the river and quayside. It also has a terrific bar and restaurant and Parisians flock here for the ambiance, the views, the friendly service and the huge summer terrace on the quay. Me, I like the gold swan in the tiny swimming pool on deck – and the cocktails! In just three words: funky, friendly and floating.

Find it at: 20-22 Port d’Austrelitz Paris 13^th offparisseine

Les Ombres

This restaurant is tucked away at the top of Musée du Quai Branly.  It’s a most extraordinary location, not just because it’s on top of a museum but for the incredible views it offers over the roof tops of Paris. And for the sight of the most famous lady in France – the Eiffel Tower.  I went for dinner and without fail, everyone in the restaurant was mesmerised by the twinkling tower which puts on a light show on the hour. Cameras clicked, videos whirred, diners ooh’d and ah’d. That poor chef I thought to myself as the food was delivered and didn’t have quite the same effect. The restaurant is open whether the museum is or not. It’s an expensive restaurant (lunch is cheaper than dinner)  but for that view – well worth va va vooming in the lift to the rooftop.

lesombres-restaurant

Restaurant Pozada

This great little restaurant is nestled between the Rue de Montreuil and Boulevard Voltaire in the east of Paris. An inexpensive, utterly delicious menu in a beautifully renovated building makes this a very popular place with the locals. You can get a snack and a beer or glass of wine here as well as a menu which features the best of produce from independent farms and artisans. Seasonal and scrumptious with a great atmosphere and don’t miss the melt in your mouth cheese and tomato tarts!

2 rue Guénot Paris 11^th Metro: Nation / Rue des Boulets; pozada

Rosa Bonheur

An unusual and quirky bar on a huge barge on the Seine!  With great tapas, beer, wines and cocktails, Parisians adore this friendly bar with a unique atmosphere. Built in 1867, the green and white boat is a “guinguette” a traditional word used to describe a place where you can eat, drink and dance. It’s a great place for a food and drink place during the day but it’s at night when this place comes alive. Picnic style food, a heaving dance floor, eclectic music and a friendly atmosphere make this one of the most fun night time venues in Paris.

Port des Invalides, Quai d’Orsay, Paris 7^th; Metro Invalides; rosabonheur

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Nuit Blanche literally means White Night, a term that’s used to describe a night without sleep. In Paris though, on the first Saturday of October it means one single night which sees the city put on a very special show. With Nuit Blanche Paris, you can expect the unexpected, a dawn to dusk extravaganza with an arty party atmosphere –  and a lot of fun.

Every year the theme and location for Nuit Blanche changes but one thing remains the same, this is a crazy art event that’s unlike anything you will have experienced before!

What is Nuit Blanche Paris

It all began in Paris in 2002 when the then Mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, inaugurated Nuit Blanche as a festival of the arts and culture. The concept was to show Paris in new and original ways and since then the idea has spread to cities around the world.

Nuit Blanche is an arty party, it’s enjoyed by a huge number of Parisians who walk a circuit along which art installations are free to be seen by all. Not just seen – experienced. This whole festival is something that you see, hear and feel.

It’s also free to everyone. Installations may be in the street, even in the River Seine as I saw in 2016, or in museums and public buildings, in them, on them and around them!

It’s a celebration of art, life, love, fun, individuality and culture. It’s a chance to join in.

Beautifully Bizarre and Deliciously Deranged!

The artworks may be provocative, shocking, humorous, beautiful or bizarre. It’s a visual feast, and maybe with sound. Whatever it is, you may be sure you will remember this event, it will inspire and give you food for thought, for discussion and some wonderful memories.

When I went in 2016, in the grounds of the oldest hospital in Paris, Hotel Dieu, in the 16^th century courtyard, a sci-fi looking light art installation by Christian Rizzo wowed the crowds despite the rain. In fact the rain seemed to make it seem even more ethereal. I couldn’t help wondering what the patients might make of it in this still working hospital! In the gardens of the Petit Palais Museum, the air was filled with coloured lights and scantily clad dancers from the famous Crazy Horse Cabaret appeared like nymphs causing hundreds of cameras to click! I followed a group of people clad in black and chanting through a closed section of a road tunnel in the dark – a totally surreal experience that made me think of Orpheus entering the underworld. I walked over a bridge to the sound of loud growling (I think) as a light swirled in the depths of the Seine below. Further on a huge vortex art installation by artist Anish Kapoor held viewers enthralled. Strange, yes. Quirky, yes. Wonderful, absolutely.

It is a deliciously deranged and totally unexpected Paris that you will see on Nuit Blanche.

It’s a must-do, must-see experience in Autumn in Paris and a truly one-off way to get under the skin of Paris and to appreciate it in a wholly original and surprising way.

Find out more: Paris.info.com

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Paris, France needs little introduction as the cosmopolitan capital city of France, located in the north central part of the country. The City of Light is just waiting for you to amble through the side streets, duck into passageways and discover hidden treasures that will leave an indelible impression on your heart.

With so much to see and do in Paris, it can be overwhelming to know where the real treasures are hiding. Getting to know the secrets of this wonderful city can simply take a lifetime. We all travel with the anticipation of experiencing that perfect moment that transports us to another time. Sometimes those destinations are hiding in plain sight, like Le Train Bleu Paris…

Le Train Bleu

The quintessential interior of the Le Train Bleu restaurant is refreshed; to its time-honored perfection, restoring its luster and patina, once again. Modern, unobtrusive window treatments, have been installed so guests can gaze out onto Place Louis Armand, or sit discretely. The iconic cobalt blue color was been sprinkled throughout in the dining chairs and banquettes – with accents of brass studs, all mimicking the French night train color scheme.

The legendary Le Train Bleu logo – above the arch windows – now replicates the intricate scrollwork from the original radiator covers. Signature china plates reflect the new gold filigree logo, edged in turquoise blue, all setting the stage for a flawless romantic dinner.

A classical French restaurant with a fine 1900’s art museum – with the walls and ceiling portraying 41 European landscapes, in frescoes and paintings by the most prominent artists of the time: François Flameng, Henri Gervex, Gaston Casimir Saint-Pierre, and many others.

With the accoutrements of crown moldings, gold leaf gilding, and sparkling chandeliers, all restored and harmonized, Le Train Bleu is a masterpiece just waiting to enchant the world’s travelers. Visitors from around the globe stop in this legendary restaurant, to admire the splendor of a grande dame from a gilded age.

If you have an hour to spare between trains – this is the perfect refined break for ambiance and art in a graceful and refined setting. No ticket required.

Le Train Bleu, 1st floor, Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand

J.Christina is the blogger behind www.scribblesandsmiles.net. Blogging from the Midwest, J. Christina, and her husband, Mr. Christie, share their European trips so others can travel vicariously through their scribbles and images.

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Paris is divided into 20 districts known as arrondissements, and essentially they’re the villages of Paris and often quite distinct from each other, especially in architectural style and the layout of the streets.

The architecture of Paris is astounding: from Roman to Medieval, Renaissance, Gothic, Belle Époque, Haussmann, Art Deco, Art Nouveaux right through to contemporary, and, somehow this mishmash of styles works wonderfully. It makes for one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

It’s a city with a long historic past which is evident right in front of us through its architecture. From the Roman baths in the basement of the Musée de Cluny, the baroque style of the Louvre, grand boulevards like the Champs-Elysées, the wiggling streets of Montmartre with its  village vibe – the more you look, the more you see and it’s still evolving.

13^th Arrondissement: A new look for an old District

Take the 13th Arrondissement on the Left Bank, also known as the Gobelins district as the famous Gobelins tapestry makers are based here. Not known as a major tourist destination though it is home to China Town and location for the vibrant Chinese New Year parade, it is being put on the tourist map thanks to a huge revitalation project. The area known as Paris Rive Gauche once housed an industrial area in a prime position lapping up to the edge of the River Seine, but it was all but abandoned as industry changed in the mid 20th century.

What is happening here is the result of the largest city plan to come to fruition since Haussman reorganised the streets of Paris and it’s astounding.

The city authority needed to make room for more residential areas and the 13th Arr. had this large industrial area that was wasted. They also wanted to relocate the national library of France which had outgrown its space. They held a contest in the great tradition of city development, not unlike that which saw the birth of the Eiffel Tower. The creator of the Pyramid at the Louvre, LM Pei, was on the jury and the winning design saw the construction in 1994 of the enormous glittering glass building that is now home to the France’s National Library. This was the beginning of the rebirth of a whole new part of Paris.

The area has essentially become an architects’ playground with some of the greatest names in the business designing buildings or renovating existing space. From Sir Norman foster to Rudy Ricciotti, designer of the iconic MUCEM in Marseille, architects have been busy transforming this area and like a very modern sleeping beauty, it’s emerging. Glass and iron buildings, lacy concrete, hanging gardens, quirky green spaces, river views and lots of sleek black cubes are evident here but now and then splashes of colour. The style is overwhelmingly sleek and chic but it’s like an haute couture outfit, the bones of the piece are simple but perfect and then it’s accessorised with a little colour, a little detail, a little humour even.

You might think that only millionaires could afford to live in this part of Paris, but the planners have ensured that local people aren’t priced out by encouraging businesses to set up here which helps to subsidise the costs.

This is a village with a social conscience and the concept works, people here are proud of the rebirth of this once unloved area.

The eclectic renewal of this area has truly put it on the Paris map. It feels a bit like Greenwich Village in New York, arty, young, vibrant, trendy, the three Wallace Fountains in the area are not the traditional green of the city, but instead they are painted bright pink, yellow and red. There are artists’ quarters where the street art is amazing and playful touches like painted street posts.

It’s an area that’s constantly changing – a very French evolution.

Take a tour of the 13^th arrondissement with www.architecturedecollection.fr in English or French

More on Unexpected Paris
How Google’s Cultural Insitute creative team turned detective in Paris and discovered Marc Chagall’s secret at the Paris Opera House
5 Off the beaten track things to do in Paris – including the Harry Potter link!
12 Fascinating facts about the Eiffel Tower
10 Incredible facts about Paris 

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