There is a museum near Agen in south-west France that will move you in a way no museum has moved you before.

You’ll feel your body’s bile production surge, blood sugar level stabilize, ossification parameters dramatically improve and cholesterol rapidly plummet. You may even feel the toxins being flushed away. The relaxation is tangible. The soluble fibre palpable.

You don’t get any of that at the Louvre.

Or by staring up at the Sistine ceiling.

The New York Met and Tate London have nothing on Musée du Pruneau on the Berino-Matinet farm in Lafitte-sur-Lot in Lot-et-Garonne.

“Awe” is the only word for it.

It’s the only way you can describe the feeling you get when you find yourself in the presence of the world’s two oldest prunes.

The star attractions and most prized of the world’s first – and so far only – prune museum, are some elderly and very frail plums. They are the oldest and most wizened prunes in captivity. Experts believe them to be priceless. Although they will never be auctioned. Food safety regulations assure that.

“Le Musée du Pruneau Gourmand” houses a unique collection of prune-related paraphernalia. Its famous pickled relics, which are kept in an airtight and thief-proof cabinet to deter private collectors (yes really), date back to 1857. They are local celebrities. Although no longer edible, they are of great historical significance.

Agen

Agen is the centre of France’s plum-growing and prune-producing industry. This is a region that is steeped in prunes. Every September, millions of purple, velvety soft plums are shaken into huge, inverted umbrellas in the Lot-et-Garonne region. Agen plums have a high sugar content which allows them to fully ripen on the tree – without fermenting around the stone. Around 30% of them are made into prunes. Agen produces an average of 45,000 tonnes of prunes each year.

“La Route du Pruneau” is an official signposted tourist route which takes you around prune-dependent villages like Beauville, Bonaguil, Lacapelle-Biron, Mouflanquin, Villeneuve-sur-Lot and the medieval village of Pujols which has a weekly market at which plums and prunes take centre stage. Local prune farms offer tastings to the passing trade.  In some towns there are “prune boutiques” selling a wide variety of pruney things. Think prunes covered in dark chocolate and perhaps a sprinkling of Espelette pepper, cream of prunes, and prunes immersed in rum, Eau de vie de Prune d’Ente and Pruneaux à l’Armagnac. Ditch those memories of prunes and cold custard you may have had at school – prunes are cool!

Agen holds an annual “Great Prune Show” during the last weekend in August. The Town Hall at Place Esquirol is bathed in prune-coloured light. The main street is turned into Le Boulevard des Pruneaux and prunes are given away for free.

Prunes are everywhere. You half expect to go to your hotel room and find a prune waiting for you on your pillow.

At the shop of the Maitre Prunille factory in Casseneuil they will tell you ‘we French treasure our prunes. They are in our blood. Our mothers brought us up with prune bread, glazed tarts, soft custard filled pastries, petit fours filled with prunes. At Christmas, the turkey is always stuffed with prunes.’

The surprisingly fascinating history of the prune

In French “une prune” is, in fact, a plum and a prune is “un pruneau”. The Agen prune, which received its official appellation in the eighteenth century, was first known as the “Prune de Bordeaux” because it was shipped in great quantities to England and Holland from the port of Bordeaux.

Plum seeds first made their way to France from China, transported by merchants via the Silk Road. The Romans planted plum trees in Gaul and Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Clairac (in the Lot-et-Garonne) brought back the plum trees that we know, on their return from the Crusades in the 12th century. One of the most popular varieties today is prune d´Ente, which comes from the old French word ‘enter’, which means to graft, due to the monks grafting the trees to make them bear fruit. Prune cultivation developed in the 16th century.

Agen prunes are the only dried fruit to have an European Union PGI (Protection Geographical Indication Origine).

Prunes, prunes and more prunes

Throughout the region of Lot-et-Garonne, you will find prune dishes on menus in most restaurants. Prune bread, prune tajines, potato and prune vegetable dishes, and pretty much everything from guinea fowl breasts, duck and geese to mushrooms stuffed with prunes. And for dessert, prune crumble with the local Armagnac grape is rather delicious. They’re also popular at the bottom of a glass of hot wine at Christmas.

To create a prune, cooking time is determined by the plum’s sugar level. Usually this is between 18-26 hours at 75 deg C. Two centuries ago they were dried over brambles, then in a fournière, or bread oven. After drying, called le machonnage, the prunes are graded. It takes 3 kilos of plums to produce one kilo of prunes.

At Confiserie Boisson sweet shop in the backstreets of Agen, six generations of the Boisson family has been bathing and boiling prunes in big brass pots and oven-drying them since 1835. The shop is crammed with prune conserves, jams, bon bons and their speciality, chocolate-truffle prunes with prune paste.

One visit to this shop, and you’ll become a regular…

Did you know: Prunes were introduced to the USA by Frenchman Louis Pellier from Agen, who went in search of California gold. His gold mining venture was a failure and he turned to farming. In 1850, Pellier grafted a cutting of d’Agen rootstock onto wild plum trees growing in the Santa Clara Valley. And the rest as they say is history…

Useful sites: Musee-du-pruneau.com; en.destination-agen.com

Recipe for Far Breton – a custard tart with prunes, speciality of Brittany

The post The Prune route of France appeared first on The Good Life France.

We asked Anthony Deperi who lives and works in Bordeaux, about his favourite places in the sunny city. Originally from Alsace, he loves to explore the charms and secret places of Bordeaux.

Discover the places the locals love in Bordeaux…

Favourite Bordeaux bar?

My favourite bar is the Rooftop Yacht Club at the Grand Hotel. It’s the perfect place to enjoy delicious cocktails with a great view over the rooftops Bordeaux. You can see all the emblematic figures of the city including the fabulous Opera House.

Favourite Bordeaux restaurant

As an unconditional fan of Italian cuisine, I always turn to Osteria Palatino from the Big Mamma group. They have a super menu with a great variety of dishes, and on top of that, you get an immersive experience with the friendly waiters with their authentic Italian accents. Pure dolce vita – Bordeaux style.

Where would you go with friends after work for an aperitif and to relax?

My favourite place is Le Vertige. It’s a wine bar with hundreds of wines. The staff are lovely, it feels like you’re visiting friends. It’s right in the centre of town, so it’s easy to get to.

What is your favourite place to go to on a Sunday afternoon?

I love going to the Bassin d’Arcachon seaside resort on the Atlantic coast, home to the Dune de Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe. It doesn’t matter whether it’s summer or winter, you rediscover the richness of the region. In summer, you can enjoy the fine sandy beaches, oyster tasting and water sports. And in winter explore the town, and maybe go horse-riding, it’s never that cold! It’s less than an hour by train from the centre of Bordeaux and there are around 20 trains a day.

Favourite cultural venue?

Of course, at the Cité du Vin.  The permanent tour is immersive and interactive helps you discover so much about wine. And there are always new, temporary exhibitions.

Where would you go to enjoy a picnic in the city?

The Jardin Public is the green lung of Bordeaux, a huge garden with flowers that smell lovely and shady trees. When the weather is good, you can spend a whole day there and hardly notice the passing of time!

Favourite cake shop

I take all my friends to the coffee shop, PNP – Personne N’est Parfait. These are healthy and delicious desserts that make you want to eat so much. I love to go here for a hot drink and snack for le gouter (snack time) – it’s the best time of the day. I can’t say no to a cannelé, my favourite is from La Toque Cuivrée.

If you want to get out of the city for a day – where would you go?

Saint-Emilion is the perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of Bordeaux and discover a new landscape. Situated 40 minutes from Bordeaux, this delightful medieval village in the heart of the famous Bordeaux vineyards is unique due to the size of its vineyards, the quality of its wines and the majesty of its architecture and monuments.

Best place for shopping in the city?

Bord’Eau Village is a place where there is always something going on. It’s a destination in itself. A place to shop but also to meet people and stroll along the river Garonne.

Favourite event held in Bordeaux?

That’s easy – it’s Bordeaux Fête Le Vin! This year it was my first time to go, and it’s a fabulous fun event that brings together the locals as well as visitors to the city to enjoy great wine. At this event you’ll “follow” the iconic wine route through the different villages of the appellations, and you’ll taste delicious Bordeaux wines. There’s a really friendly atmosphere, beautiful sailing boats that are open to visitors, festive and pretty rest and meeting areas, a regional gastronomic delights on offer and cultural and festive activities spread throughout the festival.

Anthony Deperi is the marketing and communications executive at the Intercontinental Bordeaux – Le Grand Hotel.

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Dordogne is one of the most stunningly pretty parts of France. A land of outstanding natural beauty, forests and vineyards, where ancient castles seem to be on every corner in medieval villages and atop every hill. The famous Dordogne River meanders through the department, its twists and turns keeping the land lush and verdant.

The finest food in France

It is also home to some of the finest food in France. Dordogne is famous for its duck dishes, rich patés, freshwater fish dishes, rustic country soups and many more delicious products. And if you want to discover its many charms, its history and traditions, secrets and gastronomy, there’s no better way to explore than with Danu and Michel Duneau of Perigourmet. They run day trip tours, in historic 2CV cars, which take you on a gastronomic journey of authentic, historic and delicious Dordogne.

While the world constantly changes there is one thing that you can be sure stays the same in the Dordogne – the gastronomy will always be sensational.  And if you know where to look, you will find that the region’s rich history is to be found not just in the age-old castles and prehistoric caves but in its dishes and local specialities, in its vineyards and walnut orchards, boulangeries and fromageries and ancient inns where dishes include sliced potatoes cooked in goose fat, and chunks of cheese are served with rustic bread and local truffles.

Markets and vineyards

The markets of Dordogne are at the heart of daily life. Restaurant chefs visit each day for fresh and seasonal supplies such as strawberries in the spring, blueberries in the summer, cèpes in autumn, truffles in winter. In summer, local farmers markets spring up, featuring producers from the surrounding area, often with a festive atmosphere.

Some things require more local knowledge to seek out and that’s where Perigourmet excels, helping your exploration of Dordogne to become a delicious journey of discovery. Their day trips take you to the heart of Dordogne in their fleet of 2CV cars. Visits can include cookery lessons, a caviar farm visit, wine tasting (they pick you up from your accommodation and drop you back), truffle tasting, visits to distilleries, biscuit makers and walnut oil producers and lunch at an authentic restaurant with some of the finest local dishes. Tours can be tailored to suit your taste.

A taste of Dordogne tour you’ll never forget

“Food here in Dordogne is taken seriously” says Michel, “and there is so much to discover, so many secrets, so many tastes that most visitors never even find out about. Like ‘mique’, a rustic dish. It’s a ball of bread dough poached in a cooking broth so it has no crust. And le Tourin, a garlic soup, and Tiramisu à la Truffe – which is prepared like a normal tiramisu but with grated truffle in the mascarpone and Cognac instead of Amoretto…”

And when you include the drive through glorious countryside in this land of 1001 castles, through villages classified amongst the most beautiful in France, it’s a tour you’ll never forget.

Discover the tours of Perigourmet at: perigourmet.com

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Just the name Biarritz makes you think of glamour and glitz. In the Pays Basque, in the far southwest of France on the Bay of Biscay, this once aristocratic resort, favoured by European royalty, is both elegant and exhilarating. Lovers of the ritzy lifestyle tend to favour the French Riviera these days leaving Biarritz to those who love the sun and glorious golden beaches, surfers drawn to the Atlantic rollers, Parisians and those who want a holiday in a resort that offers everything you’d want in a sunny southern French town. It’s stylish as well as laid back and even rather exotic. Here’s what to see and do in Biarritz…

Don’t miss in Biarritz

When the great French writer Victor Hugo visited Biarritz in 1843, he wrote “I know of no other place more charming and magnificent than Biarritz”. That was before the heady days when it was discovered by the rich and famous. A little over a decade later, Napoleon III stayed there with his wife Eugenie, and Biarritz was ‘discovered’. Every summer for sixteen years, the imperial couple stayed, building a summer villa – the Villa Eugenie. It burned down in 1903 and was rebuilt in the same E-Shape and is now the Hotel du Palais.

Biarritz is still charming and magnificent. The Belle Epoque architecture combined with buildings in Art Deco, Neo-Norman and Neo-Basque styles give the town a unique look making it a great place to wander.

The beaches are superb. Sun worshippers will love the golden sands dotted with vibrant parasols.

The shopping is great! Pick up a pair of the famous espadrilles, striped Basque fabric, pottery, or a Basque knife like those used in Napoleonic campaigns.

Culture

You probably wouldn’t pick this town for its cultural assets – yet there is plenty here to please. The Biarritz Historical Museum is small but charming. Located in a former Anglican church it gives a great understanding of the history of the town. Climb to the top of the  Phare de Biarritz lighthouse for fabulous views over the ocean. Pop into the Imperial Chapel, commissioned by Empress Eugenie, dive into the sea with a pack of sharks but stay dry at the immersive 4D cinema. There are several museums in the town – great for rare rainy days.

Food is culture too in France. And here in Biarritz you’ll find Basque favourites like gateau basque and dishes featuring the famous red chilli pepper of the region, the espelette. Less spicy than you might imagine, espelettes are used in lots of local dishes like Poulet Basquaise and even with eggs. Head to Les Halles, the covered market and stock up on fabulous cheeses, Bayonne ham and local produce. There are loads of restaurants from Michelin star to beach shack.

Cross the footbridge built by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame. It leads to a rocky outcrop known locally as Rocher de la Vierge. It’s topped by a statue of the Virgin Mary, a token of gratitude from whalers who were once miraculously saved from being shipwrecked and saw a divine light coming up from behind this rock.

Surfer heaven

Surfing came to Biarritz in 1956 thanks to author and Hollywood screenwriter Peter Viertel. He was staying in the town for the filming of The Sun Also Rises, an adaption of Ernest Hemingway’s book of the same name. Viertel was impressed by the waves and sent for his surfboard from California. Three years later, the first surf club was born in Biarritz, making it the historic capital of surfing in Europe.

Hardcore surfers head to La Nord beach in Hossegor where the swell can reach 6 metres high. There’s also a saltwater lake there for more relaxed water sports as well as an immense pine forest.

The bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz is also famous for its waves. Afterwards take a break in the pretty seaside resort with its authentic fishing port. There are beaches for surfers of all levels, long boarders and short boarders, and you can take lessons too. The city has webcams set up on the main beaches so you can check out the surf!

More on the area

Slow tour of the Basque country

Recipe for Gateau Basque

The post What to see and do in Biarritz appeared first on The Good Life France.

Have you ever climbed the stairs of a 20-storey building? If so, you should be prepared to huff and puff your winding way to the top of the spectacular Pey-Berland bell tower in Bordeaux. Your reward will be a view across the beautiful city from the highest point in the area. All you need to do is haul yourself up 231 tightly spiralling stone steps.

Bordeaux’s art you can climb inside

Standing at an impressive 66 metres (216 feet) the rocket-like tower is riotously decorated in a style known as Flamboyant Gothic – and it really does live up to its billing, with the exterior being packed with gargoyles and intricate carved detailing.

You might recall having climbed the 284 spiral steps of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. So perhaps you’re feeling confident about powering up the tower in Bordeaux. Well, keep in mind that the Arc de Triomphe is ‘merely’ 50 metres (164 ft) high. That is to say, the Pey-Berland tower is higher but has fewer steps. A little arithmetic will tell you that each riser of the tower’s stone steps is a calf-and-thigh stretching 28 cm (11 inches). By the time you reach the top, you will have really earned it!

Historic Bell Tower

The Pey-Berland is actually the bell tower of the adjacent Saint-Andre cathedral, which is a marvellous Gothic edifice in its own right. Its massive flying buttresses are an astonishing sight to behold looking down from the top of the tower. So why was the bell tower built separately? The cathedral’s many and mighty flying buttresses actually provide a hint. When the current form of the cathedral was taking shape around 1320, the ground on which it stands was (and remains) somewhat marshy and unstable. Owing to random subsidence, the cathedral was at constant risk of falling to pieces.

Of course, a cathedral must have bells. But the church authorities had a well-founded fear that a heavy bell tower built atop the unstable cathedral would spell doom. And so, under the driving force of the Archbishop Pey-Berland, after whom the tower is named, in 1440 the construction of the separate bell tower began – and continued until 1500. The irony was that because of various protracted problems, no bells were installed in the tower until 1853: a 353-year wait!

In between times, the non-bell bell tower was turned to several non-religious purposes, including a shot tower. That is to say, lead metal ingots were hoisted to the top of the tower and were there melted in wood-fired crucibles. The molten metal was then tipped down the inside of the tower. As it fell, the liquid metal cooled and separated into pellets for use in shot gun cartridges.

Our lady of Aquitaine

By 1863, four massive tolling bells had been in place for ten years. They collectively weighed a hefty 15.6 tonnes or 17.2 US tons. At that time, a 6 metre (19 ft, 8 inch) sculpture of Madonna and Child – known in Bordeaux as Our Lady of Aquitaine – was installed on the peak of the tower. Made from a steel frame with a copper plating skin, the sculpture weighed in at 1.3 tonnes (1.4 US tons). Over time, the copper sculpture acquired a typical dull greenish patina. But after a restoration in 2002 it emerged dazzling in the daylight, being newly covered in gold leaf.

Well, knowing all that, you simply must climb the steps of Bordeaux’s Pey-Berland tower. Find a 20-storey building in your hometown and put in some practice.

By Brad Allan, writer and wine tasting host in Melbourne, Australia and frequent visitor to France…

More on Bordeaux

Discover the Pey-Berland District

Top things to do in Bordeaux

The wine museum of Bordeaux 

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Pau, the capital of the Bearn department in the Pyrenees-Atlantiques is set between the mountains and the oceans in the far southwest tip of France. It’s a classified city of art and history with a wonderfully preserved heritage. But it’s also a modern metropolis which has undergone a major makeover and urban renewal which has left it invigorated with a dynamic vibe. There’s plenty to see and do in this energetic city but here are some of the must-sees…

Follow in the footsteps of Henri IV

Built in the 14^th century, the lofty chateau was the birthplace of Renaissance king Henri IV in December 1553. The royal baby was rocked in a turtle shell cradle that is still on display. There are large number of tapestries and a collection dedicated to Henry IV. Open all year apart from 1 Jan, 1 May and 25 Dec. Free shuttle bus from Place de Verdun car park. Details: www.chateau-pau.fr

Stroll the Boulevard des Pyrenees

Step back into the Belle Epoque when Pau town was a popular winter resort with wealthy travellers for its clean mountain air, multiple amenities, and elegant villas. Built from 1894 to 96, the Boulevard stands on a viaduct with large arcs supported by 49 piers. project was inspired by Jean-Charles Alphand, who wrote: “Pau lacks the Promenade des Anglais in Nice”. The boulevard was therefore conceived as a mountain replica of the Nice thoroughfare, a privileged place to “see and be seen”.

Pau Museum of Fine Arts

One of the biggest museums in the region, it houses both old and contemporary artworks from the 15th-20th centuries including work by Degas, Rubens and El Greco.

Enjoy a taste of the Béarn with a Pass Gourmand

Choose from 45 local food specialities from 22 craft producers in the Halles and around the town centre with a great value Pass Gourmand. Eat on site or take away. Includes macarons and chocolate, cheese and Jurançon wine.

Discover the French soldier who became King of Sweden

Musée Bernadotte is housed in the birthplace of the young soldier who became King of Sweden in 1810. Atmospheric property with wooden galleries overlooking cobbled courtyard.  Open daily except Monday and major public holidays.

Watch a sporting event

Le Grand Prix de Pau takes place around the city streets in May. And lovers of equestrian sport flock to the town in October for the 4* equestrian Three Day Event. Pau is also one of the top three towns to host the Tour de France, the first race having taken place in 1930. Cycling fans should head to the Tour des Géants statues of the winners of the Grande Boucle. There are loads of events each year in Pau. Find out more from the Tourist Office: https://www.pau-pyrenees.com/

Read our city focus article – what to see and do in Pau

Tourist Information: Visit www.tourismepau.com

Gillian Thornton is an award-winning travel writer specialising in French destinations and lifestyle and a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers.

The post 5 things to do in Pau appeared first on The Good Life France.

Capital of the historic Béarn in the Pyrenees-Atlantiques department, elegant Pau stands beneath the Pyrenees. Every major city has its iconic street. The boutique-lined boulevard. The monumental avenue. Or perhaps the quaint quarter fringed with historic houses. But few can boast anything to match the elegant city of Pau…

Pau’s must-do walkway is the Boulevard des Pyrenees, bordered on one side by imposing Belle Epoque apartment blocks and, on the other – yes, you guessed it – by the distant jagged peaks of the Pyrenees. But don’t hold your breath. You do need a modicum of luck to enjoy the spectacular backdrop to this wonderful high-level boulevard. Gillian Thornton discovers what to see and do in Pau…

Belle Epoque Boulevards

I’ve been to Pau twice before and on both occasions have found this rugged mountain frontier stubbornly hidden in cloud, so I’m delighted third-time round to see the mountains towering into the evening sky. I can even identify them, each one neatly labelled on the iron railings that fringe the south side of the Boulevard. Just line up the notch on the balustrade with the tall chimney on the old tramway factory below.

The Boulevard begins just a short walk from my stylish overnight accommodation at the Hôtel Parc Beaumont, which overlooks a glorious green space broken up by magnificent trees and tranquil lakes. Stay here during the legendary car races in May and you’ll have a front row seat on the action as the drivers race past. The rest of the year, this modern hotel is a tranquil base for exploring the town on foot.

Discover Pau

Pau owes much of its success to the British. First came Wellington’s soldiers who passed through in 1856 after the Napoleonic wars and liked what they saw. Many of them never left, settling down and establishing France’s very first golf course.  Scottish doctor Alexander Taylor extolled the virtues of the town’s clean air, and soon Europe’s well-to-do were arriving to enjoy the dance evenings, hunting parties, and buzzing social scene.

Their Belle Epoque villas still dot the town and fringe the Boulevard des Pyrénées, brainchild of engineer Jean Charles Alphand. In 1891, Alphand declared that ‘Pau should have its Promenade des Anglais of Nice’ and so he set about creating one.

Today this marvel of 19^th century engineering is a must-do amble with its mountain panorama and direct access into historic squares such as Place Royale, hub of the city since the 18^th century, and Square Georges V, created in the 1920s and ‘30s. Hang over that famous balustrade to see a reminder of the French cyclists who have passed through Pau on the Tour de France; their names and dates are painted on the tarmac of Avenue Napoléon Bonaparte beneath.

The upper and lower levels are linked in places by steps or a lift. But the most unusual transit is on board the free funicular. It was installed in 1908 to link the town centre with the railway station on the banks of the Pau de Gave. It runs every three minutes from early morning to mid-evening, afternoons only on Sundays.

At the foot of the Funicular near what was once the city’s cycle race track, 104 bronze totems tell the story of the Tour de France with anecdotes and archive photos. Pau hosted the event for the 71^st time in 2019. Every year, a new totem is added to Le Tour des Géants to celebrate the winner.

Castles, Towers and Legends

The Boulevard des Pyrénées comes to an end beneath Pau’s most emblematic monument, the gleaming white Château de Pau with its turrets, towers and balustrades. Significantly altered across the centuries, the castle saw the addition of a defensive brick keep by Gaston Fébus in the 14^th century. But its current appearance is largely due to significant 19th-century restoration under Louis-Philippe.

Look out for the Tour de la Monnaie, set slightly apart, and home to a royal mint until the French Revolution. And look down onto the geometric patterns of the Renaissance Gardens. Then head across the deep ditch via the Pont d’Honneur to the courtyard and main entrance. Inside, the birthplace of Henri de Bourbon – later Henri III of Navarre and Henri IV of France – houses rich collections of drawings, paintings and sculptures. And there’s an important collection of Louis XIV and Louis XV tapestries.

Opposite the castle entrance, the Hotel Sully is one of several aristocratic mansions in the Quartier du Château. Legends has it that brushing the Basset Hound door-knocker will mend a broken heart. More imposing buildings line Rue Joffre, formerly named simply Grande Rue, and now one of an increasing number of pedestrianised streets in the town centre.

City of suprises

But head down the steps behind the castle to discover the Hédas district. It’s one of the oldest parts of the city and recently given an urban makeover. Women once came here to fetch water from the Hédas brook, which now flows underground. Today, a pleasant walkway links play areas and tiny parks, nestled beneath the backs of multi-storied properties facing the mountains.

Pau is full of surprises and I discovered one of its best on Rue Tran, which runs parallel with Rue du Hédas. Just take a right up Rue des Cordeliers. Here the Musée Bernadotte recalls the extraordinary life of Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte. A humble solider born in Pau in 1870 he rose to become a Brigadier General under Napoleon Bonaparte. Such was his reputation that when Swedish king Charles XIII died without an heir in 1818, Bernadotte was invited to take the royal job. To this day, his descendants still reign in Stockholm. Quite some career path!

Gastronomic delights

Wandering deeper into the town, my back to the Pyrenees, I stopped off to savour the sights and smells of Les Halles. This gastronomic hub has been completely renovated since 2017. It’s now  clearly a popular venue with its wine bars, food stalls and escalators.

This ultra-modern market hall is an essential stop for anyone who, like me, has bought a Pass Gourmand. It’s a brilliant initiative that enables visitors to taste their way round the city in bite-sized pieces. More than 22 shops and food stalls throughout the city centre and within Les Halles serve some kind of iconic local flavour in return for a ticket. A sweet macaron, here. A date stuffed with foie gras there. And maybe a glass of Jurançon to wash it all down. Eat in, take away, or pack up your goodies for a gourmet picnic, perhaps with a view of the Pyrenees.

The famous umbrellas of Pau

Weather not to your liking? Not a problem if you drop by my last port of call. The unique Fabrique de Parapluies is a block away from Les Halles on the corner of Rue Montpensier and Rue Nogué. At the turn of the last century, shepherds would stop in Pau. Their sheep would graze on the current Place de Verdun, en route to and from the mountain pastures for summer grazing.

And here in Pau, they would catch up on repairs to their traditional umbrellas. Each one a lifelong companion which sheltered them from rain, sun and even lightning. Twenty years ago, Hervé Pando opened an umbrella workshop in Pau. And today his son Christophe is the last craftsman to hand-make traditional parapluies de bergers.

Fashioned from double-thickness proofed cotton with nine robust ribs, the umbrellas are guaranteed not to turn inside out. They can be held aloft hands-free, thanks to a round beech-wood handle that sits neatly in the shepherd’s pocket. The perfect accessory for any picnic – rain or shine – along the Boulevard des Pyrénées!

Pau Essentials

Getting there: By train: Daily TGV services to Paris, Toulouse and Bordeaux.  The SNCF station is in the lower town with funicular access to the town centre. By air: Pau airport is 13km from the town centre.  Fly to Pau from London-Heathrow with Air France.  Or to Toulouse (195km) or Biarritz (125km)

Where to stay and eat: Gillian stayed at the Hotel Parc Beaumont which has 75 rooms, a spa, gourmet restaurant, café, and private parking www.hotel-parc-beaumont.com.  She ate at Le Poulet à 3 Pattes, 26 Boulevard des Pyrénées – outside terrace or inside tables. For the loftiest view of all, book a stay at Le Belvédère AirBnB, a micro-maison with just one double bed, tiny kitchen and shower room in a glazed turret several storeys up  www.airbnb.com

Tourist Information: Visit www.tourismepau.com

Gillian Thornton is an award-winning travel writer specialising in French destinations and lifestyle and a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers.

The post What to see and do in Pau, Pyrenees-Atlantiques appeared first on The Good Life France.

The department of Vienne in south-western France is a bit of a well kept secret. It’s in Poitou-Charentes (now called Nouvelle-Aquitaine), and though the capital, Poitiers is well known, and the department has several big ticket attractions – including Futuroscope theme park and La Vallée des Singes – there are lots of enchanting little towns and villages to discover that are off the beaten track.

Montmorillon

Montmorillon (top photo) is famous as a Cité de l’Ecrit et des Métiers du Livre. Basically a city of books and writing. Wander the winding alleys are filled with book shops, second-hand and specialist books stores as well as workshops of those involved in the book trade: from calligraphers to illustrators. Head to the medieval district of Brouard to experience it’s bookish charms. It’s a timewarp town that will enthral bookworms, art lovers and curious travellers in search of an original and fun destination. Montmorillon is also home to several remarkable religious buildings such as the grandiose Maison Dieu. And it has an Almond and Macaron museum – yes, they do offer a tasting session, macarons are a speciality of the town. Now who can resist that?!

Medieval city of Chauvigny

Chauvigny is perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Vienne valley. It uniquely has five fortified castles. At the Chateau de Gouzon, discover the local archaeological history from Neolithic times to the present day. Stop at the Château des Eveques, known as the Bishops’ Castle. Here you can witness an exceptional falconry show featuring birds from around the world. In the heart of the medieval city, don’t miss the Saint-Pierre collegiate church, a stunning example of Romanesque art.

Angles-sur-l’Anglin

Angles-sur-l’Anglin is officially one of the most beautiful villages in France (Plus Beaux Villages de France). The upper town, with its ruined castle and warren of medieval streets and buildings, hangs over the river Anglin, 50m below. The lower town is equally charming. And it’s here that you’ll find the Roc Aux Sorcieres centre which reveals the details of a unique prehistoric site, a 20m long sculpted frieze in a rock shelter, believed to be around 15,000 years old

Charroux

Medieval Charroux is a classified Small Town of Character. It has an exceptional architectural and religious heritage and was capital of the county of Marche until the end of the twelfth century. Dominating the heart of the village, the Tour Charlemagne towers over the Saint Sauveur abbey, founded in 789 and once of the most powerful Benedictine abbeys in 9^th century Europe. Today it houses a museum exhibiting Gothic sculptures and models of the building. The town is a stage on the Camino de Compostella route. Charroux’s streets are filled with half-timbered houses and market halls, fountains and charming squares. It’s the perfect place to sit and while away a few hours day dreaming and watching the world go by.

Futuroscope – weird and wonderful rides at a multi-media themed park that’s like no other

Find out more www.tourisme-vienne.com

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La Rochelle in Charente-Maritime, Nouvelle Aquitaine, has a unique mix of charm and style. Steeped in history and rich in architectural treasures – no wonder it’s one of the most popular seaside towns in France.

La Rochelle is home to a pretty harbour surrounded by cafés. Historic twin towers stand watch and usher in the Atlantic. Ancient covered arcades and narrow streets lead to the fabulous market. The city is famous for its fish, seafood and oyster restaurants. It’s a lively and cultural resort and perfect base for discovering the wider area.

Guide to La Rochelle

Explore on water: speedboat, sailing boat or catamaran or take to two wheels – there are more than 100 miles of cycle paths. A short boat ride (or cross via the bridge) will bring you to picture perfect Ile de Ré for an island hopping experience.

Take to the seas to discover the coast of La Rochelle. Head to Fort Boyard or go island hopping to Ile de Ré, Ile d’Oleron and Ile d’Aix. Take a two hour, half-a-day or full day trip. Departure points are the Vieux Port, Cours des Dames or the Esplanade Saint-Jean-d’Acre. You can even take an electric boat ride between the old port and the Minimes Marina. Pop to the tourist office when you’re in La Rochelle to get details as sailing schedules change with the seasons. Address: 2 Quai Georges Simenon

10 best things to do in La Rochelle

Culture vulture

There are several museums in and around La Rochelle. There’s a maritime museum which includes a weather ship, La Rochelle Bunker, a blockhouse in the city centre, Natural history museum and New World Museum. And don’t forget the incredible 14^th century towers, the majestic gateway to La Rochelle plus a medieval lighthouse.

Where to eat

For a small city, La Rochelle packs a mighty gastronomic punch. The streets are filled with bars and bistros, cafés and restaurants spilling out onto cobbled streets and lining pretty squares. Most visitors head for the old Port, Vieux Port, and who can blame them. The restaurants here have particularly fabulous views over the port and the ancient towers.

Seafood is on the menu in most restaurants here, understandably as La Rochelle is set on the Bay of Biscay on the Atlantic coast however you can also find world cuisine in this bustling, vibrant city.

If you’re not into the tourist style eateries, then here’s where to eat out in La Rochelle with an emphasis on the places the locals go for a tasty feast… Where to eat out in La Rochelle

Aperitif hour

Not many visitors discover one of the locals favourite bars but of course I’m going to share it with you! Head to the Maritime Museum and next to it is the France I, a former meteorological ship. It’s now a bar and restaurant. It’s the perfect place for an aperitif with a simple plancha (snack), oysters or seafood platter. I loved that there are no plastic cups or straws onboard, only reusable eco cups. Watching the sunset from the wooden deck, you really feel as if you’ve cast off and escaped. lefrance1.com

Discover a bar with a secret courtyard: L’Imprevu is in a lovely square lined with bars and restaurants the locals love. The staff are welcoming, the beer and wine are good, plus it has a great cocktail list. Sit out on the terrace or the romantic secret courtyard of this former mansion and simply enjoy the moment. Address: 1 bis Rue de la Fourche

Where to shop

Market Day: La Rochelle’s Central Market (Marché Central) is held in a 19th-century market hall in the Vieux Port with a daily food market and a general market taking over the surrounding streets each Wednesday and Saturday.

Best for souvenirs: From bags and made from recycled sails to antiques, fashion, perfume and recycled oyster baskets – there’s a great range of shops that are just perfect for that take home memento or gift.

Insider tip

For a taste of yesteryear and an authentic atmosphere, head to La Guingette in the Old Saint-Nicholas district. Once a favourite haunt of sailors, the décor has hardly changed in almost a century. It opens in the late afternoon and closes by 9pm at the latest and is very popular with the locals. 8 Rue Saint-Nicolas

Major events

La Rochelle is one of the liveliest ports in Europe with more than 120 events and regattas every year. World championships are held here and even of you’re not a boating fan, it’s still wonderful sightseeing all the boats  line up to start.

Each November La Rochelle hosts an International film and adventure book festival. Projection rooms are set up in the aquarium and space and maritime museums showing more than 40 films. There are also more than 4000 books to get stuck into with many authors on standby to answer any questions you may have. A youth program also runs at the same time to encourage budding writers.

For more than 35 years the Francofolies of La Rochelle has been one of the best beach music festivals in France. Spread out over 5 days, more than 150,000 people come every year to listen to a wide range of performances. Families are welcome and children can join in, writing their own songs and poetry in workshops, or watching small theatre performances with trained entertainers. There are amazing fresh food and drink huts  – perfect while soaking up the atmosphere of the concerts.

Fun for families

It’s not always easy to keep kids of all ages entertained oh holiday, but La Rochelle has it all covered. Protected from strong winds and currents, this stretch of water makes it the perfect place for a water sports school. There are intensive courses and lighter lessons available for adults and children in dinghy sailboats, kayaks and windsurfing almost all year round.

Hop onto La Grande Roue to see La Rochelle from the sky. A giant ferris wheel with individual pods, that slowly moves round giving you a 360 degree view of the city and beyond. Perfect for a game of eye spy!

Located near the old harbour the aquarium of La Rochelle is superb. It’s the largest private aquarium in Europe. Here you can see more than 12,000 marine animals and plant species, really explore the underwater world and see how the animals live. There are live displays and biologists give talks on sting rays, sharks and jellyfish. The aquarium is open all year round.

Palmilud aquatic centre is a large water park suitable for all. Swimming pools, leisure pools, splash pools, paddling pools, saunas, slides and Jacuzzis make for a fun filled day. It’s surrounded by a lush green park where you can play games or enjoy a picnic.

Practical information

www.larochelle-tourisme.com

Top things to do on the Ile de Ré

Fun things to do for families in La Rochelle

La Rochelle – a port for all seasons

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Cognac is a small bustling town in the Charente department in South West France. Home to just over twenty thousand souls, it straddles the navigable Charente river. Follow these tips from a local to enjoy Cognac’s charms…

Relax and watch the world go by

The place to go is the central pavement café area on the Francois Premier roundabout. Sitting below the statue of Francis I, who was born here in 1494, watching the world go past or eating in the many excellent restaurants close by is perfect to get a feel for the town. Follow the pedestrian precinct down to the daily covered market opposite the lovely park.

Enjoy a tipple

Of course Cognac is well known for its brandy or “eau-de-vie”. La Cognatheque, a small boutique store, has more than 400 different Cognacs in stock. The famous spirit is big business.

Renowned across the world, “Cognac” is double distilled from a white wine grape juice, normally Ugni Blanc, that has been fermented to an alcoholic strength of around 7%. The town is surrounded by the vineyards, all grouped according to their classification.

Covering an area of 74,000 hectares or 182,000 acres the designated areas are called “Fins Bois”, “Petite Champagne”, “Bons Bois”, “Borderies” and sounding like a poor relation but far from it, “Bois Ordinaires”. Out of the group, the “Grande Champagne” with Segonzac as its self-styled capital, is recognised as the best area for producing “eau-de-vie” of the highest quality. However, each of these areas will produce a superb spirit with a different characteristic flavour and bouquet. Unlike a single malt Scotch whisky, Cognac is made up of various blends from different years and areas. Every Cognac house has a master blender who mixes the spirit to best effect.

Take a tasting tour

Back in the town, life goes on whatever is happening in the vineyards. The larger manufacturers conduct tours throughout the summer. Some days, when it’s very hot, the heady aroma of Cognac can be smelt in the air. This is what is known as the “angel’s share”, evaporating through the Troncais oak staves of the barrels.

My favourite visit is to the Hennessy distillery founded in 1765 by Richard Hennessy, an Irish businessman and military officer. They are one of the largest producers, now part of the LVMH and Diageo group. Their tour involves a trip from the main building across the river in a boat to the storage sheds. In here there are the barrel making tools and an exhibit showing the stills and how they work. The introduction on a surround screen is very atmospheric, showing all the seasons in the vineyards and the development of the grape on the vine.

The main fear in the barrel sheds is fire and some producers have their own resident firemen. With valuable eau-de-vie that can go back to the late 1800’s the liquor is preciously guarded.

Music

Every year “Cognac Blues Passions”, a week-long music festival, takes place in July. Some of the music is free with artists playing in the cafés and bars as well as in the pretty public park. In the evening, there’s a great atmosphere with top bands performing. We saw Seal and BB King here for example.

Take a boat trip

In the early days barrels of Cognac would be moved up and down the river on flat bottomed boats called “Gabares”. Nowadays you can take a trip up the river to Jarnac on a replica Gabare called the Dame Jeanne named after the glass storage jars or “Demi Johns”. The boat departs from Cognac Port near Hennessy.

Andy Simpson lived in Cognac for several years before settling in Devon. He blogs at: blackbirdwoodindevon.blogspot.com

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