The department of Vienne in south-western France is a bit of a well kept secret. It’s in Poitou-Charentes (now called Nouvelle-Aquitaine), and though the capital, Poitiers is well known, and the department has several big ticket attractions – including Futuroscope theme park and La Vallée des Singes – there are lots of enchanting little towns and villages to discover that are off the beaten track.

Montmorillon

Montmorillon (top photo) is famous as a Cité de l’Ecrit et des Métiers du Livre. Basically a city of books and writing. Wander the winding alleys are filled with book shops, second-hand and specialist books stores as well as workshops of those involved in the book trade: from calligraphers to illustrators. Head to the medieval district of Brouard to experience it’s bookish charms. It’s a timewarp town that will enthral bookworms, art lovers and curious travellers in search of an original and fun destination. Montmorillon is also home to several remarkable religious buildings such as the grandiose Maison Dieu. And it has an Almond and Macaron museum – yes, they do offer a tasting session, macarons are a speciality of the town. Now who can resist that?!

Medieval city of Chauvigny

Chauvigny is perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Vienne valley. It uniquely has five fortified castles. At the Chateau de Gouzon, discover the local archaeological history from Neolithic times to the present day. Stop at the Château des Eveques, known as the Bishops’ Castle. Here you can witness an exceptional falconry show featuring birds from around the world. In the heart of the medieval city, don’t miss the Saint-Pierre collegiate church, a stunning example of Romanesque art.

Angles-sur-l’Anglin

Angles-sur-l’Anglin is officially one of the most beautiful villages in France (Plus Beaux Villages de France). The upper town, with its ruined castle and warren of medieval streets and buildings, hangs over the river Anglin, 50m below. The lower town is equally charming. And it’s here that you’ll find the Roc Aux Sorcieres centre which reveals the details of a unique prehistoric site, a 20m long sculpted frieze in a rock shelter, believed to be around 15,000 years old

Charroux

Medieval Charroux is a classified Small Town of Character. It has an exceptional architectural and religious heritage and was capital of the county of Marche until the end of the twelfth century. Dominating the heart of the village, the Tour Charlemagne towers over the Saint Sauveur abbey, founded in 789 and once of the most powerful Benedictine abbeys in 9^th century Europe. Today it houses a museum exhibiting Gothic sculptures and models of the building. The town is a stage on the Camino de Compostella route. Charroux’s streets are filled with half-timbered houses and market halls, fountains and charming squares. It’s the perfect place to sit and while away a few hours day dreaming and watching the world go by.

Futuroscope – weird and wonderful rides at a multi-media themed park that’s like no other

Find out more www.tourisme-vienne.com

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La Rochelle in Charente-Maritime, Nouvelle Aquitaine, has a unique mix of charm and style. Steeped in history and rich in architectural treasures – no wonder it’s one of the most popular seaside towns in France.

La Rochelle is home to a pretty harbour surrounded by cafés. Historic twin towers stand watch and usher in the Atlantic. Ancient covered arcades and narrow streets lead to the fabulous market. The city is famous for its fish, seafood and oyster restaurants. It’s a lively and cultural resort and perfect base for discovering the wider area.

Guide to La Rochelle

Explore on water: speedboat, sailing boat or catamaran or take to two wheels – there are more than 100 miles of cycle paths. A short boat ride (or cross via the bridge) will bring you to picture perfect Ile de Ré for an island hopping experience.

Take to the seas to discover the coast of La Rochelle. Head to Fort Boyard or go island hopping to Ile de Ré, Ile d’Oleron and Ile d’Aix. Take a two hour, half-a-day or full day trip. Departure points are the Vieux Port, Cours des Dames or the Esplanade Saint-Jean-d’Acre. You can even take an electric boat ride between the old port and the Minimes Marina. Pop to the tourist office when you’re in La Rochelle to get details as sailing schedules change with the seasons. Address: 2 Quai Georges Simenon

10 best things to do in La Rochelle

Culture vulture

There are several museums in and around La Rochelle. There’s a maritime museum which includes a weather ship, La Rochelle Bunker, a blockhouse in the city centre, Natural history museum and New World Museum. And don’t forget the incredible 14^th century towers, the majestic gateway to La Rochelle plus a medieval lighthouse.

Where to eat

For a small city, La Rochelle packs a mighty gastronomic punch. The streets are filled with bars and bistros, cafés and restaurants spilling out onto cobbled streets and lining pretty squares. Most visitors head for the old Port, Vieux Port, and who can blame them. The restaurants here have particularly fabulous views over the port and the ancient towers.

Seafood is on the menu in most restaurants here, understandably as La Rochelle is set on the Bay of Biscay on the Atlantic coast however you can also find world cuisine in this bustling, vibrant city.

If you’re not into the tourist style eateries, then here’s where to eat out in La Rochelle with an emphasis on the places the locals go for a tasty feast… Where to eat out in La Rochelle

Aperitif hour

Not many visitors discover one of the locals favourite bars but of course I’m going to share it with you! Head to the Maritime Museum and next to it is the France I, a former meteorological ship. It’s now a bar and restaurant. It’s the perfect place for an aperitif with a simple plancha (snack), oysters or seafood platter. I loved that there are no plastic cups or straws onboard, only reusable eco cups. Watching the sunset from the wooden deck, you really feel as if you’ve cast off and escaped. lefrance1.com

Discover a bar with a secret courtyard: L’Imprevu is in a lovely square lined with bars and restaurants the locals love. The staff are welcoming, the beer and wine are good, plus it has a great cocktail list. Sit out on the terrace or the romantic secret courtyard of this former mansion and simply enjoy the moment. Address: 1 bis Rue de la Fourche

Where to shop

Market Day: La Rochelle’s Central Market (Marché Central) is held in a 19th-century market hall in the Vieux Port with a daily food market and a general market taking over the surrounding streets each Wednesday and Saturday.

Best for souvenirs: From bags and made from recycled sails to antiques, fashion, perfume and recycled oyster baskets – there’s a great range of shops that are just perfect for that take home memento or gift.

Insider tip

For a taste of yesteryear and an authentic atmosphere, head to La Guingette in the Old Saint-Nicholas district. Once a favourite haunt of sailors, the décor has hardly changed in almost a century. It opens in the late afternoon and closes by 9pm at the latest and is very popular with the locals. 8 Rue Saint-Nicolas

Major events

La Rochelle is one of the liveliest ports in Europe with more than 120 events and regattas every year. World championships are held here and even of you’re not a boating fan, it’s still wonderful sightseeing all the boats  line up to start.

Each November La Rochelle hosts an International film and adventure book festival. Projection rooms are set up in the aquarium and space and maritime museums showing more than 40 films. There are also more than 4000 books to get stuck into with many authors on standby to answer any questions you may have. A youth program also runs at the same time to encourage budding writers.

For more than 35 years the Francofolies of La Rochelle has been one of the best beach music festivals in France. Spread out over 5 days, more than 150,000 people come every year to listen to a wide range of performances. Families are welcome and children can join in, writing their own songs and poetry in workshops, or watching small theatre performances with trained entertainers. There are amazing fresh food and drink huts  – perfect while soaking up the atmosphere of the concerts.

Fun for families

It’s not always easy to keep kids of all ages entertained oh holiday, but La Rochelle has it all covered. Protected from strong winds and currents, this stretch of water makes it the perfect place for a water sports school. There are intensive courses and lighter lessons available for adults and children in dinghy sailboats, kayaks and windsurfing almost all year round.

Hop onto La Grande Roue to see La Rochelle from the sky. A giant ferris wheel with individual pods, that slowly moves round giving you a 360 degree view of the city and beyond. Perfect for a game of eye spy!

Located near the old harbour the aquarium of La Rochelle is superb. It’s the largest private aquarium in Europe. Here you can see more than 12,000 marine animals and plant species, really explore the underwater world and see how the animals live. There are live displays and biologists give talks on sting rays, sharks and jellyfish. The aquarium is open all year round.

Palmilud aquatic centre is a large water park suitable for all. Swimming pools, leisure pools, splash pools, paddling pools, saunas, slides and Jacuzzis make for a fun filled day. It’s surrounded by a lush green park where you can play games or enjoy a picnic.

Practical information

www.larochelle-tourisme.com

Top things to do on the Ile de Ré

Fun things to do for families in La Rochelle

La Rochelle – a port for all seasons

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Cognac is a small bustling town in the Charente department in South West France. Home to just over twenty thousand souls, it straddles the navigable Charente river. Follow these tips from a local to enjoy Cognac’s charms…

Relax and watch the world go by

The place to go is the central pavement café area on the Francois Premier roundabout. Sitting below the statue of Francis I, who was born here in 1494, watching the world go past or eating in the many excellent restaurants close by is perfect to get a feel for the town. Follow the pedestrian precinct down to the daily covered market opposite the lovely park.

Enjoy a tipple

Of course Cognac is well known for its brandy or “eau-de-vie”. La Cognatheque, a small boutique store, has more than 400 different Cognacs in stock. The famous spirit is big business.

Renowned across the world, “Cognac” is double distilled from a white wine grape juice, normally Ugni Blanc, that has been fermented to an alcoholic strength of around 7%. The town is surrounded by the vineyards, all grouped according to their classification.

Covering an area of 74,000 hectares or 182,000 acres the designated areas are called “Fins Bois”, “Petite Champagne”, “Bons Bois”, “Borderies” and sounding like a poor relation but far from it, “Bois Ordinaires”. Out of the group, the “Grande Champagne” with Segonzac as its self-styled capital, is recognised as the best area for producing “eau-de-vie” of the highest quality. However, each of these areas will produce a superb spirit with a different characteristic flavour and bouquet. Unlike a single malt Scotch whisky, Cognac is made up of various blends from different years and areas. Every Cognac house has a master blender who mixes the spirit to best effect.

Take a tasting tour

Back in the town, life goes on whatever is happening in the vineyards. The larger manufacturers conduct tours throughout the summer. Some days, when it’s very hot, the heady aroma of Cognac can be smelt in the air. This is what is known as the “angel’s share”, evaporating through the Troncais oak staves of the barrels.

My favourite visit is to the Hennessy distillery founded in 1765 by Richard Hennessy, an Irish businessman and military officer. They are one of the largest producers, now part of the LVMH and Diageo group. Their tour involves a trip from the main building across the river in a boat to the storage sheds. In here there are the barrel making tools and an exhibit showing the stills and how they work. The introduction on a surround screen is very atmospheric, showing all the seasons in the vineyards and the development of the grape on the vine.

The main fear in the barrel sheds is fire and some producers have their own resident firemen. With valuable eau-de-vie that can go back to the late 1800’s the liquor is preciously guarded.

Music

Every year “Cognac Blues Passions”, a week-long music festival, takes place in July. Some of the music is free with artists playing in the cafés and bars as well as in the pretty public park. In the evening, there’s a great atmosphere with top bands performing. We saw Seal and BB King here for example.

Take a boat trip

In the early days barrels of Cognac would be moved up and down the river on flat bottomed boats called “Gabares”. Nowadays you can take a trip up the river to Jarnac on a replica Gabare called the Dame Jeanne named after the glass storage jars or “Demi Johns”. The boat departs from Cognac Port near Hennessy.

Andy Simpson lived in Cognac for several years before settling in Devon. He blogs at: blackbirdwoodindevon.blogspot.com

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The village of Talmont-sur-Gironde in Charente-Maritime was founded in 1284 by Edward I, AKA Edward Longshanks, ruler of Aquitaine and King of England (1272-1307). He chose the land on a rocky promontory overlooking the Gironde Estuary, 15km south of Royan, in order to build a fortified town in the strategic location. The King wasn’t the most popular royal, but he was certainly good at picking a beautiful spot to build a castle.

There’s not much evidence of his time here though the town has kept its original layout. The village is incredibly pretty and is officially one of the “plus beaux Villages de France”.

What to see in Talmont-sur-Gironde

Sitting on the banks of Europe’s largest estuary, Talmont -sur-Gironde in Charente-Maritime, is postcard pretty.

Park your car in the car park on the edge of the town and wander the pedestrianised cobbled streets. Quaint traditional whitewashed houses with blue shutters. Bright coloured hollyhocks grow wild in the streets and roses drip from every wall. This is one of the prettiest little villages in France and the third most visited site in Charente-Maritime.

On Tuesday nights through July and August some of the buildings are lit up from 21h. It makes for a lovely promenade in the atmospheric little village and many of the shops stay open late.

Through April to September a farmer’s market is held on Sundays from 9h to 16h.

Though you could probably get all the way round easily within an hour, it’s a nice place to take your time. Wander, stop and enjoy the views, sit and contemplate the sheer loveliness of the tranquil streets and stunning views. Take a break at one of the little bars and restaurants and make it a half day…

Monuments and artists

The Romanesque Church of Sainte-Radegonde is one of the architectural jewels of the village sitting on the edge of the village, overlooking the estuary. Built between the 11th and 15th centuries by Benedictine monks, it was once used as a stopover on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela and is a classified Historic Monument. The fragile beauty of this white stone church, pounded by the elements, is magnificent.

Sainte Radegonde was a little known 6^th century German princess. She founded a monastery of Sainte-Croix in Poitiers in 560 and was said to have the power to heal and protector of sailors.

Adjoining the church, is a marine cemetery which has also been classified as a Historic Monument in its own right. It possesses several cenotaphs, as well as tombs dating to the eighteenth century.

There’s a small museum set up in one of the traditional houses with an exhibition of local history.

The village is a magnet for artists and there are many artisan shops in the village. Beware, some of these shops are utterly irresistible. Rose Outremer creates fascinators, “head jewellery” she says as she shows row after row of enchanting accessories, unique and “frivolous”. Her husband Philippe Robert, a painter displays his art on the walls of their tiny boutique in rue de la Tour Blanche. And at the glass makers shop, Un Monde de Verre in rue du Port, Veronique and Marc, master craftsmen, spin amazing glass jewellery before your eyes.

A maritime marvel

Fishermen set up their nets from traditional wooden pontoons along the estuary below the cliffs. It’s a magical sight, one which has not changed in many years.

Wild meadow flowers grow along the cliff top and they somehow manage to thrive in cracks in the walls, giving the place a splash of colour that adds a little magic.

You can take a guided river trip from Port Medoc on the other side of the Estuary and discover Talmont-sur-Gironde from the water.

What to see nearby:

Close by and worth visiting:

The Gallo-Roman site Fâ in Barzan.
Les Grottes du Regulus, naturally formed caves which were converted to troglodyte housing in the 19^th century.
What to see and do in Royan – Ville d’Art et d’Histoire
Top ten things to do in Ile de Ré
1o best things to do in La Rochelle
Where to eat out in La Rochelle – the restaurants the locals love

Tourist office Talmont-sur-Gironde: www.talmont-sur-gironde.fr

What to see and do in Les Charentes: Charente and Charente-Maritime: www.atlantic-cognac.com

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Saintes in the department of Charente-Maritime, Nouvelle Aquitaine (formerly Poitou-Charentes) is a surprising city. Not that well known to visitors or even to the French, it’s home to one of the best preserved Roman amphitheatres in France and is a musical town par excellence.

There’s plenty to see and do but here are some of my favourite things to do in Saintes…

What to do in Saintes

Cultural activities in Saintes

Visit the outstanding Roman remains – the Roman arena is a must-see. I’ve seen quite a few Roman ruins in my time but there’s something about this one. You can actually get up close and personal here, walk in the footsteps of the gladiators, enter the tunnels, climb the seats. It really is an astonishing sight. And the restored Roman arch of Germanicus gives you an idea of just how important this town was to the Romans. Immense and majestic, dominates the riverside.

Take a tour of the Abbaye aux Dames, a monumental and ancient abbey. There are two types of audio guide available from the reception office. You’ll discover its rich and illustrious past to the sound of music. Founded in the 11th century, turned into stables by Napoleon and now a major music venue. It’s very atmospheric.

Wander the old part of town to enjoy Renaissance houses, quirky shops and friendly cafés.

Stock up at the glorious market. Buy a delicious little tortisseaux or two, a local speciality doughnut! Beware, they’re irresistible…

Visit a museum – there are several in the town including the Museum of Echevinage with a fine collection of paintings, sculptures and regular temporary exhibitions.

Out and about in Saintes

See the city on two wheels. There’s a Velodie bike station just outside Saintes train station where you can hire bikes.

Enjoy a river cruise on the Charente. Pop into the tourist office for details – they have an office alongside the Roman Arch of Saintes, you can’t miss it.

Surprising things to do in Saintes

Ride on a unique carousel at the Abbey aux Dames. A cross between a spaceship and a mobile orchestra pit, the rides consist of state of the art electronic instruments and in a few minutes under the guidance of the conductor, riders can create seriously impressive musical pieces.

Take a break in the Prairie of La Palu. Seriously, in the middle of Saintes, just a few minutes’ walk from the central Place Bassompiere, you’ll find 120 hectares of meadow and protected nature zones alongside the river.

Visit the Romanesque crypt of the Saint-Eutrope Church on the route of Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle near the Amphitheatre. It has an air of infinity, and looks just as it did 1000 years ago.

Stay at: Hotel Souvenirs de Families. Opposite the train station. Enjoy old school French hospitality with lovely, friendly hosts. Huge rooms, comfy and not expensive, it’s a perfect base to explore the city.

Tourist Office: Saintes-Tourism.com; Tourist Office Infininement-Charentes.com; www.atlantic-cognac.com

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Cognac is a smallish city, easy to walk around to see the sites, and with plenty to do – especially if you’re a fan of Cognac the drink!

Le Musee des Arts du Cognac

If you want to know about cognac the drink as well as the region, the Museum of the Arts of Cognac is a great place to start. You’ll discover all there is to know about the creation of cognac and the area in which it is made. There are thousands of objects to bring the story to life as well as a rather fascinating selection of posters and labels. Details: www.musees-cognac.fr

Cognac Discovery Centre

Nip next door to the Discovery centre to find out all about the heritage of Cognac and the Charente area. You’ll get a great overview of how cognac came to be, the different areas of cognac production, the vineyards, landscape and villages.

Cognac tour and tasting

You can’t go to Cognac and not do a tour and tasting. There are loads of options including Hennessy, Remy Martin and Martell. Just check at the tourist office for details of all that are available in the town and the surrounding countryside. However, I think one of the best tours is to be had at the Chateau Royal de Cognac. It is an extraordinary visit of a majestic building – plus there’s a fabulous tasting…

Royal Chateau de Cognac

The Royal Chateau de Cognac overlooks the Charente river. The original castle was built in the 10th century and designed to stop Norman invasions. Chateau des Valois, as it was known, is where one of France’s most celebrated kings, Francis I, was born in 1494. It’s now the domaine of Baron Otard, whose cognac house was founded in 1795. The chateau then was in a state of neglect and the Baron had it restored and realised that the thick walls provide exceptional aging conditions for his eau-de-vie.

Guided tours of the chateau are divided into two parts, French history and Baron Otard cognacs. (It’s available in several languages). Tours begin in the historic part of the chateau, then onto the cellars.

You can smell the cognac as you walk through the doors of the 12th century rooms above the cellars.

A historic castle turned Cognac cellar

The castle is wonderfully preserved, you can even see the remains of a 12th century hot water system. And, there’s a room where King Richard the Lionheart came to bless the wedding of his illegitimate son Philip of Cognac. There are sculptures and engravings, early style Renaissance rooms – in fact it’s said that the French Renaissance was born here.

In some rooms you can see engravings carved into the walls by English prisoners which are fascinating.

Down in the cellars the 90% humidity and constant 15 deg C temperature are perfect condition for the spiders that are part of the cycle of production. The cognac is matured in wooden barrels, the spiders eat the bugs in the wood and keep it clean. The locals joke that the spiders are drunk in here! Cognac evaporates through the wood and causes a blackened fungus to form on the walls and ceiling. It’s known as “the angels share”.

The room where Francis 1 was baptised as a baby, more than 500 years ago, is now the dry cellar room. There are sniff tables where you can really tell the difference between the various types of cognac

In the dungeons are the oldest bottles of cognac dating back 200 years. It’s a totally fascinating visit only made better by the tasting at the end of the tour!

www.chateauroyaldecognac.com

Wine and dine in Cognac

There are plenty of restaurants and bars in the city, just perfect after a stroll by the river…

Locals love: Le Bistro de Claude. Fresh food and a tasty menu, great atmosphere and lots of cognac to choose from! Friendly staff, English spoken and full of locals who know a great restaurant when they see one…

Wine and dine: Atelier des Quais. From the door just off the main bridge, you might not realise just how lovely this place is. But, if you enter the door from the quayside opposite the towers of the Chateau Royal, it’s obvious you’re somewhere special. Go for coffee, tapas, cocktails and for the fabulous lunch or dinner menu. The courtyard with its twinkling lights at night is truly lovely.

Poulpette in the Saint-Jacques district is a unique and lovely tiny restaurant with a no-choice menu. The chef cooks whatever is freshest and most appealing to him. Seriously creative and authentic.

Chez Aristide, in the pedestrian zone of Old Town is traditional. You’ll find a regional menu with a fresh twist. Casual and hip with a nice terrace.

Chai Meukow, a restaurant within the Cognac House Meukow in the centre of town. Lunch only with a no-choice menu that’s fabulous. And, it’s so popular, reservation is obligatory (online at their website). You can also do a tour and tasting.

Where to stay

Stay in a gorgeous Cognac farmhouse. Built around 1840, the house is set in its own secluded garden enclosed by stone walls with exclusive use of a heated pool. A family holiday home (sleeps 8) it is close to Cognac, Saintes, Angouleme, Royan, La Rochelle and Rochefort and the beaches of the Atlantic coast, as well as a whole lot of other fabulous sites and attractions. Find out more and book at: cognac-no22.com

Discover what’s on and things to do in Cognac at www.tourism-cognac.com.

More on the local area: www.atlantic-cognac.com

Discover nearby

Saintes with its Roman arena, stunning churches, museums and musical vibe
Angouleme – home to an incredible comic museum and some of the best street art in France
Royan – what to see and do in the maritime city
La Rochelle, the seaside city that steals your heart
Rochefort – 10 things to do in the famous French naval town

The post 5 things to do in Cognac, Charente appeared first on The Good Life France.

The town of Cognac in the Charente department, south west France makes for a great visit. Especially if you love cognac… And historic towns, gorgeous countryside, sitting at cafés and watching the world go by.

Guide to Cognac

The name cognac is famous the world over for the fine French brandy made from white wine grapes. And, as you’d expect, cognac the drink is a major part of visiting the town of Cognac. There are several important cognac houses and a dedicated museum plus discovery centre.

The origin of cognac dates back to the 16th century when Dutch settlers visited to purchase salt, wood, and wine. As the long journey home made preserving the wine difficult, they started to distil the wine into eau-de-vie and they realized a second distillation made for an even finer, more elegant and very drinkable product. This is essentially the birth of brandy. The word “brandy” comes from the Dutch word “brandewijn” which means burnt wine.

Brandy can be made all over the world, but only brandy made in the Cognac region of France and under the strictest guidelines, can be called “cognac.” It is made from white wine, using only very specific types of grapes grown in one of the six crus surrounding the town of Cognac in the Charente and Charente-Maritime regions of France. It’s distilled twice and aged in casks for a minimum amount of two years.

Cognac the town

Cognac is a pretty town with a “City of Art and History” label. It’s easy to spend a day here wandering it’s ancient streets, taking in the sights, relaxing by the river and indulging in the local cuisine. The town has a feeling of peacefulness, prosperity and good living.

A great starting point is Place Francois 1er, a big square, lined with shops and bars. It’s a great place to grab a coffee, or cognac and watch the life of Cognac going on, before you start a walking tour of the town. It’s named after King Francis 1 of France, who was born here in 1515 (more on that later). It has in its time had several names and was even the site of a pig market for a while.

You can take a guided tour with the tourist office or just amble. It’s not a big town and easy to see on foot. There are some beautiful old houses, fabulous shops ranging from gourmet food to fashion and art. The Jardin Public makes for a great picnic spot with its pretty fountains and peacocks wandering about. There’s a Museum of Art and History in a beautiful building with a collection of paintings and sculptures as well as a Museum dedicated to cognac.

Then continue your walk down to the riverside. Wide open spaces, beautiful old warehouses and some of the major cognac houses are in this part of the town.

Cognac in Cognac

You can’t go to Cognac and not do a tour and tasting. There are loads of options including Hennessy, Remy Martin and Martell. Just check at the tourist office for details of all that are available in the town and the surrounding countryside. One of the best tours is to be had at the Chateau Royal de Cognac.. It is an extraordinary visit of a majestic building – plus there’s a fabulous tasting…

Cognac fact file

Only brandy made in the Cognac region of France and under the strictest guidelines, may be called “Cognac.”

V.S. (Very Special): stored for at least two years in cask.
V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale): stored for at least four years in a cask.
XO (Extra Old) or Napoléon: stored for at least six years in a cask.
Hors d’âge (literally meaning Beyond Age): equal to XO, term is used by producers to market a high-quality product beyond the official age scale.

You should always use a tulip- shaped or balloon glass. Apparently it helps to capture cognac’s subtle aromas.

The ideal temperature to serve cognac is between 15 and 18ºC (59 to 64.4°F); too warm and it will evaporate and lose taste and flavour.

Napoleon Bonaparte’s favourite drink was cognac.

Where to stay

Quai des Pontis is situated in the heart of Cognac, on the Charente River. It’s a magical setting with three different types of accommodation from gypsy caravans to cabins on stilts on the river’s edge and cosy wooden lodges. They’re all equipped with mod cons such as DVD’s, LCD television sets, Nespresso machines. But it’s the natural beauty of the resort that makes it a knockout location and really brings it home that the countryside laps right up to the edges of the town. There’s loads to do here from fishing, swimming, exploring the surrounding countryside or the short walk into town.

Stay at a gorgeous gite farmhouse. Cognac No. 22 is in an idyllic location near Cognac and close to so many of France’s most wonderful sites and destinations. It’s the perfect base to simply unwind, relax and visit the area. Find out more and book your stay at: cognac-no22.com

Discover what’s on and things to do in Cognac at www.tourism-cognac.com

More on the local area: www.atlantic-cognac.com; www.infiniment-charentes.com

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Royan in the south west of France, in Charente-Maritime, is a classified “Ville d’Art et d’Histoire”. This holiday resort combines the old world charm of the Belle Epoque with modern architecture, a buzzing port and sea front and plenty to see and do in the town and close by.

Here’s what to see and do in Royan

Take a tour and discover the unique architecture of Royan

Get your bearings with a tour of the town. In the aftermath of World War II, Royan, which suffered huge damage, needed reconstruction on a grand scale. The architects in charge of the city’s rebuilding in the 1950s, experimented with new forms, techniques and materials to design a model city, aiming for an open and modern look and feel. Royan’s updated look is unique and comes from combining modern architecture and in particular the influence of Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, combined with Charente-Maritime coastal style.

In downtown Royan explore the heritage of the 1950s rebuild on the seafront and city streets. The 19th century Belle Époque style was replaced with what were then innovative concrete buildings. More than 100 architects worked on the redesign prioritising residential buildings. The neoclassical apartment blocks frequently feature an element of Art Deco style.

Group tours are available in English from the tourist office.

Royan central market – a must-see in Royan

Redesigned in the 1950s, the indoor market is striking. If you could see it from above you’ll know the concrete roof is shaped a bit like an open parachute. Actually it’s mimicking the effect of an open sail. The round building has undulating concrete walls reminiscent of painted corrugated iron, influenced by Brazilian architecture. From the outside, there is no hint of the extraordinary interior which is beautifully lit with sunlight flowing through delicate glass blocks in the ceiling. The locals love their market. In the midst of the rebuild, the money ran out and townsfolk had a whip-round and collected the funds to finish it.

In 2019 Royan market came second in the “Favourite market of the French” contest. It’s a wonderful indoor market with a wide variety of meat, fish, shellfish, vegetables, breads and cheeses – everything from flowers to frying pans, olives to olive oils, herbs and spices and, a local speciality, Pineau des Charente, wine made with cognac.

Church of Notre-Dame de Royan

The concrete Notre Dame Church on the Santiago Compostela pilgrim route is somewhat dilapidated from the outside though the steeple is impressively tall (I’ll be honest it made me think of a multi-storey car park). But don’t let that fool you. When I entered the church, I felt as if I had opened the door onto another world, it was like stepping into a spaceship with its startlingly modern interior. Monumentally high ceilings and incredible stained glass windows make for a extraordinary design. It’s best seen from outside at night when the stained glass is lit up.

Musée de Royan

Built in the old market building, this is a small museum which covers local history. The most popular exhibit is about Picasso’s time in Royan. The artist lived here for a while and the exhibit shows examples of some the stunning artwork he completed whilst there.

Wander along the sea front

The sea front is more traditional, bars and restaurants line the esplanade and make for a great, relaxing place to while away the hours. Round the bay, the Belle Epoque style villas are a great contrast after the city’s concrete vibe. Stop at Pointe De Suzac, a short drive from Royan. This natural “balcony” over the Gironde Estuary and protected natural area with forests and lots of wild birds. There are also WWII bunkers along the coastline. It’s not a well-advertised attraction but well worth seeking out.

Take a break at a beach house bar and restaurant

Along by Pointe de Suzac you’ll find La Crique-Suzac Beach House bar and restaurant. It’s in a stunning location and has a great menu and fabulous holiday vibe. Chef David has worked in restaurants around the world but returned to this area where he was born and is really making a mark. Featured as a top summer pick in Elle magazine, the dishes are seriously tempting, there are music nights and a fabulous Sunday brunch. Chef David told me he sources oysters from a 5th generation oyster fishing family in nearby La Tremblade, and fish from the local estuary – utterly delicious. Details: lacrique-suzac.com

Regulus Caves at Meschers

Around 15km from Royan, Meschers has an extraordinary troglodyte site in a seaside resort. The sea caves show how houses were formed out of the soft limestone and chalk. Guided tours are available from March to November including night-time walks.

Take a detour to Talmont sur-Gironde

Talmont-sur-Gironde is a ‘Plus beau Village de France’ and ‘Petites Cités de Caractère’. Discover the village founded in 1284 by Edward 1st of Aquitaine, on a rocky promontory overlooking the Gironde Estuary, south of Royan. Cobbled streets, pretty houses, artisan studios and stunning views await.

Palmyre Zoo

The popular Palmyre zoo covers a whopping 18 hectares, including 14 beautiful landscaped gardens. More than 1600 animals, including over 130 different species, live here.  You can join in with feeding the penguins and watch the daily sea lion, parrot and cockatoo shows.

What to see nearby

Top ten things to do in La Rochelle
What to see and do in Ile-de-Re, the exquisite little island off of La Rochelle
Ile d’Aix, pedestrianised island that feels like the Carbibbean in Charente-Maritime
Top ten things to do in Rochefort

Website: Royan Tourism What to see and do in Les Charentes: Charente and Charente-Maritime: www.atlantic-cognac.com

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Rochefort in the department of Charente-Maritime, Nouvelle-Aquitaine (formerly Poitou-Charentes) is a naval town with lots for visitors to see and do.

The Arsenal Quarter

Louis XIV’s former Royal Dockyards along the River Charente are vast. Created in the 1660s, over the next three centuries, 550 ships were built, rigged and launched from these docks. The King commanded that he required it to be the “largest and most beautiful arsenal in the kingdom”. He got what he wanted. Today the area is an incredible heritage site with museums, mills and traces of historic shipbuilding activity. It’s a great place to cycle with lot of picturesque routes. You can hire a bike and pick up a circuits leaflet from Rochefort tourist office.

Hermione replica ship

The first Hermione was a frigate launched in 1779. She carried General Lafayette to America where he fought in the American Revolutionary War on the side of the Americans and became a hero. The ship was wrecked four years later, but in 1997 members of the Centre International de la Mer began a mammoth project to build a replica Hermione. 17 years in the making she was completed in 2015 and followed in the path of her namesake, undertaking a historic journey to America (above photo, setting off from the French shores). She is now docked in Rochefort and you can climb aboard to admire the incredible workmanship which brought a 17^th century ship to life in the 21^st century.

Corderie Royale

The centrepiece of Louis XIV’s Dockyards was the rope factory. It was absolutely critical for the production of rigging for warships. With the tall sails, ropes had to be very long and so the corderie, rope shop, was built to cope with the need. At 374m long, it’s an impressive sight to this day. It’s now a fascinating museum which explains hemp cultivation and shows how those fibres were twisted into 200-metre lengths of rigging for 200 years up to the introduction of steel cables. You can also have a go at making rope yourself – I did and loved the experience!

Musée des Commerces d’Autrefois

In a 19th-century former warehouse, you’ll find the Museum of trades of yesteryear. There are 22 galleries which recreate the the ateliers and shop floors of trades of the past. Step into an old bicycle repair shop, milliners and cognac distillery. There are lovely vintage posters, and original artefacts of everyday appliances from between 1900 and the Second World War. The old bistro is particularly fun…

Rochefort-Martrou Transporter Bridge

The only surviving bridge of its kind in France, the unique Pont Transbordeur du Martrou, built in 1900 and now listed as a Monument Historique is an incredible heritage site. To this day it carries foot passengers and cyclists across the river Charente or a platform suspended on cables attached to a metal framework over the river. There’s an interpretation centre, Maison du Transbordeur, open from April to November. There you can discover all about the history of the bridge.

Musée de l’Aeronautique Navale

The largest museum in France dedicated solely to naval aviation. On the site of the Air Force, the hangar is home to 33 aircraft, including a rare Dewoitine D.520 from the Second World War and the flying banana helicopter. You’ll also find 1500 models on show, from zeppelins to stealth jets and World War II-era rocket planes.

Jardin des Retours

In the grounds of the Corderie Royale, a 17^th century park has been with maritime themes in a series of gardens. One of the most spectacular is the Jardin de la Galissonnière, named in honour of Jean de la Galissonnière who first brought magnolia tree seeds to Europe from the Americas in 1711.

Musée National de la Marine

Part of France’s National Maritime Museum, with sites around the country, discover model boats, including the Dauphin Royal, an instructional model measuring 4.80 metres in length, as well as other naval memorabilia including navigation instruments as well as art and sculpture.

This is the place to go to satisfy any curiosity for France’s naval history, this museum is a compendium of model ships, sketches, glorious figureheads, maps, navigation instruments and other maritime artefacts.

Musée National de l’Ancienne Ecole de Medecine Navale

Included in the ticket for the Naval Museum is entry to an exhibition medicine on the high seas the school of naval medicine in Rochefort was founded in 1722, the first in the world. It’s a fascinating and at times gory collection that includes 2,500 books and encyclopaedia’s, bottles of herbs gathered from around the world, antique medical instruments and specimens of human tissue.

The town of Rochefort

Take a wander through the town of Rochefort. It’s a 17^th century version of a “new town” built by Louis XIV’s minister, Colbert. Grand avenues, elegant houses and plenty of charm. Head to the central Place Colbert which is charming as well as a great place to take a break and enjoy coffee with a spot of people watching. Nearby the Rue Courbet is little changed from the 17th century with its cobblestones brought from Canada as ships’ ballast.

Visit the house of the novelist Julian Viaud who wrote under the pen name of Pierre Loti. A naval officer, he wrote numerous best-selling romances set in Oriental locations. From outside the house looks fairly bourgeois. But inside, it’s rather more exotic including a medieval themed banqueting hall complete with a Gothic fireplace and Gobelin tapestries. The house is undergoing major renovation and visits may be restricted but you can see some of Loti’s collection from his travels at Musée Hèbre, avenue du General de Gaulle.

What to do near Rochefort

10 best things to do in La Rochelle
Where to eat out in La Rochelle
10 things to do in the Ile de Ré
Ile d’Aix, the little island getaway off the coast of La Rochelle

Useful websites

Rochefort Tourism: www.rochefort-ocean.com/en; Charente and Charente-Maritime tourism – what to do in Rochefort and its surroundings: www.infiniment-charentes.com/destination/que-faire-a-rochefort/

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Small enough to drive from one end to the other in around 30 minutes, Ile de Ré has an intimacy that’s alluring but never leaves you feeling restricted. Despite its size, the landscape appears to unfold for miles. Expect fields of flowers, vineyards, salt marshes and the most glorious coastline plus the prettiest little villages. It’s what makes this island a favourite with the French. Take a look at the best things to do in Ile de Ré:

Cycling on the Ile de Ré

Ile de Ré is connected to the mainland by a bridge which was completed in 1988. This hasn’t affected the charm of ‘the White island’ at all though at peak visiting times, it can be busy driving over the bridge. Cycling is a favourite pastime on the island. No wonder, it’s pretty much completely flat. It takes around 2 hours to go from one end to the other, a lovely ride. There are more than 60 miles of signposted cycle paths which wind through vineyards and fields. And with the same number of sunshine hours as the south of France, cycling is the best way to see the best bits of this pretty little island.  It’s easy to hire a bike on the island with loads of outlets in the towns.

Saint-Martin de Ré

Saint-Martin-de-Ré is the main town on the island, the mini capital of Ile de Ré. This is where you’ll find some of the best restaurants, bistros, bars, and ice cream shops. The town is protected by Vauban-built fortressed walls. It spreads out around an almost impossibly gorgeous waterfront. Saint-Martin is also a World Heritage site. In the 1670s, Louis XIV’s French military engineer Vauban, was commissioned to overhaul the island’s defences. The fortifications now have UNESCO heritage status. Climb the bell tower of the church for a panoramic view over the roofs of the terracotta-roofed houses. You may well spot donkeys dressed in stripy trousers, a local tradition. It’s a hangover from the days when mosquitoes were a problem – they’re not now but hey, who doesn’t love a donkey in a pair of trousers!

Take a Tuk-tuk ride

New to the Ile de Ré and utterly brilliant fun, tuk rides can now be booked in La Flotte, Le Bois-Plage, La Couarde and Saint Martin de Ré. It’s the genius idea of a local, Christophe Sebille. His fleet of environmentally friendly, 100% electric tuk tuks are the most fun way to take a tour. You can even get picked up from your holiday accommodation and dropped off in town or back at your pickup point. The great thing about a Tuk tour is that they can access all areas. So, you get to see the tiny oyster shacks that cars can’t reach. The local drivers can show you the secret places, the salt marshes and off the beaten track. Book at the tourist office or through www.retuktuk.com/

Salt marshes

You can’t really do anything at the salt marshes but it’s fascinating to see how the salt that flavours our dishes is produced. On the island they’ve been producing it since the middle ages. Fleur de sel salt is famous in France but it was hardly known outside of the Ile de Ré 20 years ago. People saw it on TV on programmes like MasterChef and wanted to buy it. Now, fleur de sel is revered. It costs several times what the originally salt costs as production is much more time consuming.

Production depends on terroir, the strange French word that’s untranslatable into English but includes the climate, the land and more. Fleur de sel needs the right conditions – especially wind and sun. The crystals are much finer than ordinary salt. The process of making it is totally organic and around 1kg of fleur de sel produced for every 10kg of ordinary.

I loved the salt honesty boxes you can find by the salt marshes. It makes for a perfect (not heavy) souvenir of your visit.

Boat ride

You’re on an island, it’s de rigeur to take a boat ride surely! And there’s plenty of choice from speed boat rides to inter island cruises, fishing trips and yachting. Boat rides can be booked at Saint-Martin, Ars, La Flotte and Portes-en-Ré (details on Ile de Ré Tourist Office website, bottom of this post).

Ice ice baby – ice cream heaven

If you’re an ice cream fan, then La Martinière on the quay in Saint-Martin de Ré will truly float your boat. But take my advice, don’t go for the oyster ice cream or potato flavour ice cream (leave those to the tourists – they’re not for savvy visitors of taste like you). Try the frozen macarons, the mouth-watering lollies or your favourite flavour ice cream. It’s very moreish but sitting on the edge of the port with a sweet treat = perfect!

Shopping

Head to St Martin de Ré if you like to shop, beware they are irresistible! There are some shops which are high end with price tags to match, but they’re not all like that. I came home with clothes and knick knacks I just couldn’t leave behind and they weren’t expensive. Seaside chic at its very best.

Relax on the beach

There are seemingly endless stretches of silky golden sand surrounding Ile de Ré. More popular beaches like Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré can be busy but if you want to relax and chill in privacy, there are loads more quieter beaches such as La Couarde-sur-Mur or La Noue. Take a picnic, and spend the day staring out over the Atlantic, listening to the waves and just feeling the moment

Ars-en-Ré

Pretty as a picture postcard, Ars-en-Ré at the far end of the island is classified as one of the “Plus Beaux Villages de France”. It has a sleepy village vibe in the centre of the town which gets progressively livelier as you head towards the coast. The village is best known for the pointy black and white bell tower of its church which was used as a point of reference for ships. Fabulous little bars and restaurants, galleries and shops and the prettiest little streets make this a must-see.

La Flotte

Another “plus beaux village” on Ile de Ré, La Flotte is officially one of the prettiest villages in France. A tiny harbour town that well worth stopping off for a wander and to discover the lovely coffee shops and bistros, shops and art galleries. Don’t, whatever you do, miss the market, it really is fantastically pretty with a great atmosphere.

When to go to Ile de Re

Best months to go as far as I am concerned are May, June, September. It gets packed in summer but if you go then, head north for quieter parts of the island. My favourite time is early June before the crowds. At this time, the island smells of honeysuckle full bloom, fields of poppies light up the countryside, hollyhocks create splashes of colour in almost every street, figs are ripening and roses drip from walls and window boxes…

More information

Top ten things to do in La Rochelle
Where to eat out in La Rochelle – the places the locals love
Fun things to do for the family in La Rochelle

Ile de Ré Tourist Office: www.holidays-iledere.co.uk/ and for more information on what to do in Charente and Charente-Maritime: www.atlantic-cognac.com

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