The Alabaster Coast of Normandy in northern France made a big impact on the Impressionist painters. Gillian Thornton took a scenic coastal drive to find out why.

Stretching from Le Tréport in the north to Le Havre in the south, the dramatic coastline of Seine-Maritime earns its name – the Côte d’Albâtre – from the towering white chalk cliffs that dominate the undulating shoreline. The Impressionists loved a chalk cliff so as a big fan of their work, I’ve come to see for myself the landscapes they loved.

Le Treport

Heading down by car from Calais, I cross from the Hauts-de-France region into Normandy at Le Tréport on the Bresle estuary. Walk the bustling quayside and relax on the beach. Don’t miss the funicular up the chalk cliffs to enjoy sweeping views over coast and countryside. I’m no painter but already I can understand why artists are captivated by the big skies and ever-changing light here.

Eu

Don’t leave Le Tréport without taking a mini-detour to Eu, a small inland town of just 7,000 residents. Eu’s chateau was a favourite home of France’s last king, Louis Philippe. It’s here that Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stayed in 1843 for the signing of the first Entente Cordiale, a diplomatic agreement between France and Great Britain. Louis-Philippe lived his final years in exile in England after being forced to abdicate in 1848. However his beautifully restored Norman mansion still boasts exquisite parquet floors, a priceless art collection, and extensive gardens. Nor was Victoria the only English monarch to make her mark on Eu. William of Normandy married Matilda of Flanders here in the Cathedral of Notre Dame, some 15 years before they became King and Queen of England in 1066.

Dieppe

Back on the coast road, I stop in the bustling fishing port of Dieppe. Its deep water harbour is protected by those signature white cliffs. France’s first ever seaside resort, Dieppe became popular with Parisians from 1822. This got it the attention of Impressionists such as Camille Pissaro who painted the inner harbour in 1902. Look out for reproductions of Impressionist paintings all along the Alabaster Coast in the exact places where the artists placed their easels.

Today Dieppe is classified as a French Art and History Town. , I stop to learn about its seafaring and trading traditions, as well as its Impressionist connections at the museum in the hilltop castle. Just west of Dieppe is Varengeville-sur-Mer. Here you’ll find the 12^th century church of St Valery, renowned for its coastal views and sailors’ cemetery. Master Impressionist Claude Monet painted the exterior of St Valery from many angles, but look inside too. The Tree of Jesse stained glass window is the work of Georges Braque who died in 1963 and is buried in the churchyard.

Veules-les-Roses

For a very small place, Veules-les-Roses packs a pretty picturesque punch. There are period cottages and ancient watermills, seaside villas and a sandy beach. And there are more clues in the name. Nestled in the wooded valley through which La Veules, France’s shortest river, runs, the narrow streets are splashed with the colour of roses of every hue during the summer months.

Victor Hugo was a big fan of the village, coming here regularly in the late 19^th century. One hundred and fifty years later, Veules-les-Roses is still popular. It’s a gem of the Alabaster Coast and the only community in the Seine-Maritime department of Normandy that is classified amongst the Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Fécamp

Beyond Veules-les-Roses, bustling with visitors on market day, I find another Valery, the pretty port of St-Valery-en-Caux with its small harbour nestled between high chalk cliffs. Then it’s on to the fishing port of Fécamp. Hardy fishermen in centuries past set off from Fécamp and Dieppe to fish for cod off Newfoundland. Discover their story at the excellent Fisheries Museum, housed in a converted fish-smoking and packing building beside the harbour.

There are circular views from the seventh floor roof terrace. You’ll get a tantalising glimpse of the extraordinary Benedictine Palace in the heart of the old town. Benedictine liqueur was reputedly created in the 16^th century by a Benedictine monk named Dom Bernado Vincelli, using a secret mix of 27 plants and spices.

The formula was lost in the French Revolution. But in 1863, local wine merchant Alexandre Le Grand found the recipe! He recreated the drink, and commissioned a flamboyant turreted mansion in its honour. A combination of museum and art gallery, it holds the distinction of being the world’s only distillery for Benedictine liqueur.

Le Grand’s art collection spans sacred to modern art and is as eclectic as the building he commissioned.

Etretat

Every new coastal view reminds me why the Impressionist painters were so enamoured of Normandy’s light and landscape. But the place I most want to see with my own eyes is Etretat with its famous rock arch attached to the Aval cliff. I’m thrilled to catch a distant view over a sunset aperitif in the garden of the Domaine de Saint-Clair hotel just outside town. However I’m gutted next morning to wake to thick sea mist. Despite the June heatwave, Monet’s iconic subject is barely visible, even from the beach.

But after my initial disappointment I console myself with the thought that Monet loved to capture changing weather conditions. If I look on this as a Moody Monet Moment, 50 Shades of Grey suddenly takes on a very different connotation!

As the sun burns off the morning mist, I head up to the Amont cliff to visit the magical Etretat Gardens. This extraordinary topiary garden includes – no surprise – a reproduction in wicker of Monet at work, complete with palette and easel.

Le Havre

My final stop on the Alabaster Coast is somewhere I’ve never really wanted to go, but feel I really should. Le Havre. This busy commercial port at the mouth of the Seine was bombed to near oblivion during World War II, leaving 80,000 homeless. Little remains of the original town. It was also the accidental birthplace of Impressionism in 1872 when Claude Monet painted a shadowy picture entitled ‘Impression. Sunrise’, dubbed by a disparaging art critic as Impressionism.

Thanks to the vision of celebrated architect August Perret and his team, Le Havre was rebuilt in the 1950s with broad avenues, public open spaces, and concrete apartment blocks. But despite the city’s UNESCO World Heritage status, I’ve never had any great desire to see it. Big mistake. The innovative period design turns out to be far more attractive than I imagined. Don’t miss the church of St Joseph, Perret’s masterpiece, nor the Perret Show Flat, full of 1950’s nostalgia.

But the real treat for me is MuMa – the Museum of Modern Art André Malrau. It houses the second-largest Impressionist collection outside Paris. The young Monet was encouraged by established artist Eugène Boudin from nearby Honfleur, widely considered as the ‘master of skies’ for his seascapes with racing clouds and wide horizons. Boudin never considered himself an Impressionist but he takes his rightful place here in Le Havre’s glorious quayside museum alongside Monet and his contemporaries.

Thanks to those pioneer painters, art lovers all over the world have discovered the beauty of Normandy’s Alabaster Coast. See it with your own eyes however, and you might just find yourself reaching for the paintbox!

Getting there

Sail direct to Normandy with DFDS (Newhaven-Dieppe) and Brittany Ferries (Portsmouth to Le Havre and Caen-Ouistreham. Le Havre is just over 2 hours by train from Paris St Lazare. For visitor information, see www.seine-maritime-tourism.com

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

The post The Alabaster Coast of Normandy appeared first on The Good Life France.

Normandy spreads over a sizeable chunk of northern France. And, with enough sights and activities to keep even the pickiest tourist happy for weeks, how do you choose what to see?

We asked Peter Perantonakis who lives in Normandy and runs tours for TripUSAFrance for his top Normandy must-sees.

Mont Saint-Michel

Mont Saint Michel is easily my favourite place in France and possibly the most inspiring place I have ever visited. An island when the tides come in, Mont Saint-Michel was originally built in 709 AD after Saint Michael the Archangel appeared to a Bishop and commanded a church to be built. It was added to continuously from the 11th to the 15th centuries and has everything you could wish for in an abbey or a castle. The entire “island” is completely covered by small shops, cobbled streets, and breath-taking views, all winding up to the impressive Gothic monastery at its heart. The soaring spires and beautiful stonework make you feel as if you’ve stepped back to medieval times.

Monet’s Garden

Claude Monet was one of the world’s most influential painters. Known for championing impressionism, he is perhaps most well-known for his massive and mesmerizing paintings of waterlilies. Luckily for us, the very water lilies he painted can be seen in person at Monet’s garden at Giverny. Attached to his home, which is now a museum, the gardens themselves are calm and beautiful and the destination is sure to inspire.

Bayeux

Bayeux is one of the best places to stay in Normandy. It is a charming town that retained its old architecture by closely escaping destruction as the Allied bombing of the city was called off at the last minute and it became the first liberated city of France during the D-Day invasions. It boasts historic buildings, streets littered with local shops and restaurants and a magnificent Cathedral.  And you can’t miss the Bayeux tapestry. It’s 230 feet (70 M) long and is over 940 years old. There are 50 scenes hand embroidered on it and it is widely renowned as both an impressive piece of art and an important piece of history.

Etretat

Etretat links Le Havre to Le Treport on the coast. Famous for its white limestone cliffs, a scene that captured the imagination of some of the great impressionist artists such as Claude Monet, Boudin and Courbet.

Cathedral of Rouen

The Rouen Cathedral is one of the best things to see in Normandy for anyone who loves Gothic architecture, or architecture in general. Built in the late 12th through early 16th centuries, the cathedral boasts the tallest church tower in France and some truly stunning stained glass. The intricate stonework and soaring ceilings are sure to inspire a sense of awe and send you home with some great pictures.

Seafood in Dieppe

Normandy is famous for its seafood and one of the best places to eat it is Dieppe, founded in 1030 and famous for its scallops. There’s also a fabulous market, voted favourite market of the French.

Visit a market

Normandy’s towns and villages host hundreds of markets. Two of the best are in Caen on Friday and Sunday mornings. And while you’re there, don’t miss a visit to the castle ruins, museums and memorials.

Remember the lost at the American Cemetery of D-Day Beach

The American storming of the beaches on D-Day toward the end of WWII played a major role in the outcome of the war. Over 9,000 service men and women, many of whom who died in the D-Day landings, are buried in the cemetery. An additional 1,557 names of missing service members are carved into a memorial. The cemetery is both beautiful and harrowing with row after row of white crosses showing the cost of war. Taking time to visit the cemetery is a profound way to honour those who died defending the cause of freedom.

Go to a Calvados tasting

While most of France is known for their wine, Normandy is known for Calvados. Calvados is a delicious brandy liquor made from apples which are grown in the region instead of grapes. There is a fondness throughout France for this special drink. Calvados distillation dates to the 1500’s and is a cultural staple of Normandy, along with cider. Arranging a tour with a family distillery will ensure you taste not only the fruity flavour of Calvados but also its rich history.

Go to a Cheese factory to taste some Camembert

Anyone who loves cheese has surely heard of Camembert, and then immediately began craving its creamy smooth texture and unique taste. Visit the birthplace of this amazing cheese and, if you really want to try it at its best, you owe it to yourself to go to a cheese tasting. Still not convinced? If you do a cheese tasting you’ll get to try not only Camembert but also a ton of other French cheese while in France.

Walk along the beach in Deauville

If you’re looking for a day in the sun or a romantic evening Deauville beach is sure to impress. With its colourful umbrellas and sparkling casino, the beach hosts everything from horse races to film festivals. Take a stroll along the iconic boardwalk or just sit and watch the waves. Either way, Deauville will make you feel like a million bucks.

Le Havre

All but destroyed during WWII, Le Havre built back in a modern and truly unique way. A major freight docks just across the mouth of the Seine, the architecture is astonishing.

Visit the Beaux Arts museum of Rouen

Housing an impressive renaissance collection and a beautiful sculpture garden, the Beaux Arts museum holds some truly stunning pieces. Boasting works from every school of art from the 15th to the 21st century, the collection is stunning and frequently loaned out to other museums. The vast range of styles means that whether your taste is medieval or modern, something will speak to you. Whether you’re looking to spend an afternoon or a whole day, the Beaux Arts museum will satisfy your inner artist.

Discover Normandy’s prettiest villages

Normandy has six recognised Plus Beaux Villages, officially the prettiest villages in France. Barfleur, Lyons-la-Foret, Beuvron-en-Auge, Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei, Veules-les-Roses and Le Bec-Hellouin.

Wander around the Honfleur Port and Downtown

Honfleur is a historic city with a picture-perfect port. The facades of the homes stacked along the harbour have been the inspiration for many famous painters including Monet. In fact, the play of light and colour on the water is so beautiful that it’s here that the Honfleur School helped launch the Impressionist movement. The city itself has several museums and a beautiful historic feel. Completing your trip to Honfleur with a dinner in a local cafe is the perfect conclusion to a relaxing day.

Take an 8 day tour of Normandy with TripUSAFrance to experience the very best of this exquisite region.

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Think of Caen and most likely the things that pop into your mind will include William the Conqueror, whose power base was here, and Caen Memorial.

Caen is the biggest city in, as well as the capital of, lower Normandy. It’s a town with a vibrant vibe, history, grand architecture, a fantastic foodie culture and a real community spirit which is all about the markets.

There is a market every day of the week here, but the two big ones are on Friday and Sunday mornings…

The Market of Saint-Sauveur

The Friday morning market in Place Saint-Sauveur is a stone’s throw from the famous Abbaye aux Hommes, built as a penance by William the Conqueror. The Pope excommunicated the then Duke of Normandy William for marrying his cousin Matilda of Flanders in 1053, but he was forgiven by founding the Abbey in 1063. Meanwhile Matilda founded the nearby Abbaye aux Dames in about 1060. Both buildings, one to each side of the castle of Caen, were paid for with booty stolen from England. And both Matilda and William were interred in their abbeys. Marble plaques mark the spots, though William’s now only contains a single thigh bone. The rest of his bones were scattered during the French Revolution.

Early on a sunny Friday morning, I explored the market which spills out of Place Saint-Sauveur the oldest square in the city and into the roads around. It’s probably the oldest market in Caen too. Though the date for when it started isn’t known, the market is mentioned in documents from the time of Richard II, William the conqueror’s grandfather.

Truly divine

About 250 traders are here. They sell everything foodie and almost everything else. Local honey, butter, cider, calvados (apple brandy) and garlic. There’s even ginger, saffron and yuzus, grown less than an hour from the city. Of course, Norman cheeses are there in abundance. Camembert, affectionately known as God’s feet by the locals, Pont-L’Evêque, Livarot and Neufchâtel. I stopped in my tracks at the sight of chocolate bread and a delicious spread of tarts and cakes. “Would you like to try” the stall holder asked me, smiling as I sighed with happiness. It tastes divine. An elderly lady nodded approvingly and told me that she never buys any food at a supermarket, only this market and the Sunday morning ‘big one.’

In the square, shoppers pulling trolleys and carrying baskets and bags are watched over by a statue of a no-doubt approving Louis XIV dressed as a roman Emperor. A voracious gourmand, he was said to eat up to 300 oysters in a single sitting. With that in mind I followed my nose to the fish market where the freshest of scallops, which are emblematic of Caen, sea snails, bulots, fish and all manner of shellfish were arrayed. A group of infants on a school trip to learn about food passed me by chatting about the incredible display and laughing at a stall called ‘Standouille’, a play on words in French ‘c’est un andouille’ which sells an impressive range of sausages.

What a load of tripe!

Tripe of course is also sold at the market, Tripe à la mode de Caen is the traditional dish of the city, and they’re very proud of it here. And it if floats your boat, pop to Boucherie Sabot in Boulevard des Alliés near the 14th century Tour Leroy. Sabots is Normandy’s most famous, multi-award winning, third-generation family producers of Tripe.

It’s an impressively beautiful, irresistibly scrumptious market – enough to make me want to move to Caen!

Caen Castle and the old district

At the other end of the marketplace, the vast ramparts of Caen Castle are imposing and majestic. This was one of the largest medieval enclosures in Europe, built in around 1060. Though the castle lies in ruins, there are wonderful views from the top (top photo). Plus there are two excellent museums. The Musée des Beaux Arts and the fascinating Musée de Normandie which explores the history of the Norman people, within the enclosure. Below it lies the old district, small but well worth a wander.

Marché du Dimanche Saint Pierre

The most important market in the region takes place on Sunday morning market at the port de Plaisance in Caen. Along the quay of the bassin Saint-Pierre, on Place Courtonne and Quai Vandeuvre, you’ll find a whopping 400+ traders selling pretty much everything. There’s a mind-boggling array of local products straight from the farm. Olives from Provence and goods from all around France, artisan and craft goods, clothes, homeware and more.

Families amble, browse and buy, stopping to look out over the port at the boats bobbing up and down, their anchors clanging gently, while birds hover waiting for titbits. Keen cooks buy the freshest produce for the all-important Sunday meal. And baskets are filled with food for the week ahead.

What really surprised me about this market was the dizzying amount of street food stands. Great steaming bowls of aromatic noodles and cauldrons of prawns and shellfish, irresistible Brittany style galettes, succulent roasting chickens, even vegan.

Where to eat out:

Caen is a foodie’s paradise and the local restaurant chefs are often to be seen at the city’s markets. You’ll find heaps of choice when it comes to eating out, these are just a few of my favourites:

L’Aromate, 9 Rue Gémare, 14000 Caen. laromate-caen.fr Superb menu and it’s all about the ingredients. The freshest fish and vegetables and chef. The staff are friendly, the ambiance is great – you simply can’t go wrong here.

L’Okara, 24 Rue Froide, 14000 Caen. www.lokara.fr Welcoming organic and ethical vegetable restaurant that’s perfect for vegetarian and vegan dining.

Une Cuillére a Carrée, 22 Rue de Bernières, 14000 Caen. unecuillerecarree.fr A real favourite with the locals for its refined and delicious menu.

Le Pt’tit B 15 Rue du Vaugueux, 14000 Caen. www.leptitb.fr In an ancient building in the medieval district, in a picture postcard pretty street, in the shadow of the great castle ramparts. Superb menu and delicious cocktails – an absolute winner.

Bouef and Cow, 6 Boulevard des Alliés. boeufandcow.com Elegant and welcoming setting overlooking the beautiful church of Saint-Pierre and serving Normandy’s finest burgers and meaty dishes.

La Ferme de Billy, 31 Rue de l’Eglise, 14980 Rots. ferme-de-billy.com/en A 15-minute drive from Caen city centre brings you to the glorious apple-growing countryside of Normandy – and a traditional cider farm. The Ferme de Billy’s weekend brunch and Thursday/Friday lunch buffet is the best I have ever been to. A huge choice of local products, beautifully cooked and presented. Afterwards take a walk around the estate with its 13^th century chapel. A must if you’re in Caen.

Where to stay

I stayed at the 3* Hotel Des Quatrans, 17 rue Gémare, 14000 Caen. hotel-des-quatrans.com It’s in a tranquil spot, but just steps from the city centre. Ideal as a base to visit Caen and the wider area.

Go Trade is a European project which since 2017 has worked with English and French partners to support and preserve the role that traditional markets play in daily life. Find our more at: gotrade-markets.eu

Did you know: Caen is one of those tongue-twister words non-French find really hard to say. Some say it like ‘con’ which in French means idiot (or worse). It’s more like ‘Carn’ – pronounce the ‘n’ but emphasise the ‘r’!

Details of markets and what to see and do in Caen: caenlamer-tourisme.com

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Mont Saint-Michel is majestic. It’s one of those places that, although its wiggly cobbled streets might be covered by many visitors (around 2.5 million a year – it is after all one of the most popular sites in France) the magic shines through. A tiny town on a granite island cradled between the coast of Brittany and Normandy, which from a distance looks like a helter-skelter. Lopsided half-timbered houses wind their way round the narrow alleyways, topped by a gravity-defying golden statue of Saint Michael. Victor Hugo, the great French writer called it “the pyramid of the seas” and you can really see what he means when you view it from a distance. It is one of the wonders of the world and has attracted hordes of tourists since the Middle Ages.

Bucket list France

I took my dad there once. He didn’t want to go, ‘another bloody monument‘ he’d said. But I insisted.

We strolled through the stone arch which forms the entry to the town and dad stood there open-mouthed at the sight of this incredible island of monuments. We made our way up a cobbled hill, past chapels and many souvenir shops, and cafés in medieval buildings. We peered into the restaurant Mère Poulard famous for its fluffy omelettes. They are made to the same secret recipe and cooked on an open fire in front of customers as they have been since 1888, a taste that’s been loved by many – including Ernest Hemingway and Marilyn Monroe. And we wandered down tiny streets and lost ourselves in the wonder of the ancient architecture.

Normandy cheeses

Normandy has its own feel and its own food. And if you go to Normandy, you’d better like butter. And cheese. And garlic… and a whole host of other things. Let’s just say, you don’t go there to go on a diet and don’t forget to pack your stretchy trousers.

We stopped at a restaurant overlooking the bay. Steaming bowls of mussels, fresh as can be, were put on the table before us, together with a basket filled with chunks of baguette for mopping up the creamy, garlicky sauce. Crispy fries and a green salad accompanied the fishy feast. Afterwards a selection of cheeses was brought to the table for us to choose from. I explained to dad that it was polite to ask for up to three cheeses on show and the server will cut a sliver of each for you. Confronted with the sight of several cheeses, a ripe Brie and smelly Camembert, Livarot and pungent Pont l’Evêque, heart-shaped Neufchatel and Pavé d’Auge, dad had no idea which to choose.

“This one” said the waiter “comes from a dairy farm in a sleepy village among the rolling hills…” and “this is one of the most creamy and delectable cheeses in the world.” And “flavoured with a little Calvados, this one tastes of heaven, it’s funky and delicious…” He rolled his tongue around the words, filtering them through his droopy moustache, proudly paying tribute to the local cheeses, much as a sommelier does when describing wine.

“I’ll have a bit of everything” said dad firmly, ignoring my three-cheese-sliver advice. The waiter sliced expertly and popped the portions on a plate. Dad spread them over chunks of baguette. He sighed happily, he nibbled and rolled his eyes as if in ecstasy. He didn’t share and he didn’t stop until he had finished.

Mark, my husband, and I decided to climb to the top of the Mont to visit the abbey. It was at the summit of a steep stone staircase. Dad declared it would probably finish him off even without him now having a body composition of at least 15% cheese.

“I have” said dad “eaten myself into a sitting position.” So we left him to enjoy the views and entertain some American tourists on the table next to ours. Dad was a great raconteur and loved to tell tall tales.

The Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel

The abbey of Mont Saint-Michel was far less crowded than the streets which is not a surprise since there’s no lift to the top, so you really don’t have a choice if you want to get there other than to tackle a whopping 350 steps. There were a couple of paramedics sitting on a bench halfway up. We joked that they were there to help us fools making the chest-thumping ascent. Then we ran out of breath to joke.

But, getting to the peak was worth every challenging moment of the climb. The thick stone walls of the abbey are punctuated with arched windows which allow panoramic views over one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Inside the Gothic abbey there is a feeling of spirituality and of peacefulness that makes you stop in wonder and awe at the sight of cloisters which seem to be suspended halfway to heaven.

The history of this place goes back millennia but it was in 708 that Aubert, the bishop of Avranches dreamed he had an encounter with the archangel Michael, who instructed him to build a church on the island. Three times the archangel instructed the bishop, until finally, according to legend, burning a hole in the bishop’s skull to drive home the message. Aubert built his chapel and the current abbey now stands on that site, built in the 11^th century.

Going down the stairs was easier. We collected dad from the terrace.

“This” said dad, “is one of those places that everyone ought to see before they die”.

Janine Marsh is Author of My Good Life in France: In Pursuit of the Rural Dream, and My Four Seasons in France: A Year of the Good Life

Photo: Stormy, misty, marvellous and medieval Mont-Saint-Michel, Mont St Michel during the “blue hour” by Martin McKenzie

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“My garden is my most beautiful masterpiece” said Claude Monet. And he chose Normandy as the place where he wanted to live, work and play. Who can blame him? Normandy has it all – exquisite countryside, fairy tale villages, castles, beaches, marvellous monuments and great gastronomy. It takes a very special tour to experience all of Normandy’s glories.

Picture Perfect Normandy tour

This seriously super tour takes you on an enchanting journey through Normandy. From Monet’s house and extravagantly floral garden in glorious Giverny to Mont Saint-Michel, one of the wonders of the world. Historic towns, the D-Day landing beaches, fairy tale castles and cheese farms, plus the beautifully detailed 1000 year old Bayeux Tapestry are all on your itinerary.

You will never forget your visit to wonderful Honfleur. This little harbour town bewitches visitors today as it did the impressionist artists. Filled with pickled in the past cobbled streets and half-timbered buildings it’s exquisitely pretty. Stand in the footsteps of Monet in Rouen as you contemplate the majestic beauty of the great Gothic Cathedral. Then head to dinner at the oldest auberge restaurant in France. You’ll be following in the footsteps of the American grand dame of cooking, Julia Child. She fell in love with French cuisine there…

You’ll also head off the beaten track to discover pretty villages, gorgeous castles including the birth place of William the Conqueror and experience the wonders of Normandy like a local. See the magnificent bay of Mont Saint-Michel with its one of a king island hilltop abbey and discover authentic and delicious French markets.

And you’ll be spoiled rotten throughout with fabulous restaurants…

World War II sites

On this tour some of the best World War 2 experts will join the group to show you the historical sites. With their anecdotes and tales of the past, of the facts and the secrets of the locations, the guides help the past come to life. As you explore the battlefield sites and visit the poignant cemeteries, It’s a moving experience and one that leaves travellers with lasting memories.

Wine, dine and stay in high-end hotels

Hand-picked restaurants, charming auberges, authentic and cosy cafés… This tour takes you to the crème de la crème of Normandy. And talking of cream – you’ll find it’s cheese heaven in the home of Camembert. So naturally you will indulge in a cheese tasting session as well as cider and Calvados, the famous Norman apple brandy. Enjoy the freshest seafood there is, irresistible cakes and desserts and great wines as you pamper your inner gourmand.

Everything is taken care of so that you simply relax, enjoy the tour and have a fabulous time making memories you’ll cherish.

Find out more at TripUSAFrance

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It’s official – these are the prettiest villages in Normandy according to the Plus Beaux Villages de France Association. They award the coveted recognition to a handful of villages that have to meet strict criteria. Culturally rich, population of less than 2000, rural location and of course exquisitely pretty!

Normandy has six recognised Plus Beaux Villages.

Barfleur

You’ll find Barfleur on the Cotentin Peninsula, between Cherbourg and Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue. The latter is itself an absolutely jewel of a town, famous for its oysters and UNESCO listed Tour Vauban de la Hougue, plus it was voted “favourite village of the French in 2019”. Barfleur is a small fishing village with a picturesque fishing harbour. With its carefully preserve old buildings, it’s a great place to wander, enjoy the sea views and take a break. It too is famous for its seafood, especially a type of mussel called “Barfleur blonde”. Enjoy it cooked in cream and eaten at one of the seafront restaurants and washed down with Normandy cider. Sublime…

Read more about Barfleur here.

Beuvron-en-Auge

Beuvron-en-Auge is full of authentic half-timbered houses dating to the 17^th and 18^th centuries. The main square is stuffed with art galleries and antique shops and every every Saturday afternoon there’s a farmer’s market. The Route des Cidres takes in this village, perfect for lovers of cider, nature, cheese, countryside and wide open green spaces peppered with beautiful mansions and castles.

Lyons-la-Forêt

Charming half-timbered houses dating from the 17th century, painted cob buildings and a glorious central market hall, dating from the 15th century make this a standout village visit. Just 40km from Rouen, this tranquil little village is in an enormous national forest of beech trees. Maurice Ravel lived here, Jean Renoir, son of the famous painter, a renowned film maker, featured the town in film in the film Madame Bovary in the 1920s. Later Claude Chabrol also used the town as a location in his version of Madame Bovary. Lyons-la-Forêt is also a Station Verte and village fleuri.

Read more about Lyons-la-Forêt here.

Le Bec-Hellouin

Le Bec-Hellouin is renowned for its imposing Abbey, built in 1034, it’s a classified Historic Monument. It’s inhabitaed by monks who create ceramics and candles that you can buy in the Abbey. The town is like a picture postcard come to life with its colourful houses and flower-lined streets.

Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei

In the heart of the Alpes Mancelle Regional Natural Park, this small village is astoundingly pretty. It’s not hard to see why painters, included Courbet and Corot, have flocked here. With the gentle river Sarthe flowing through town, an 11^th century church and very pretty streets and houses, this is a fabulous place to spend some time. Not only that, the town is home to a “miraculous fountain”. Legend has it that water which sprang from a source here quenched the thirst of Saint Céneri, after whom the town is named. Great for fishermen and hikers as well as those who love pretty villages.

Veules les Roses

Between Fécamp and Dieppe, overlooking the cliffs of the Alabaster Coast, Veules-les-Roses sits between sea and countryside. The Veules is the smallest river in France and follows a lush green and flowery course through the mills and thatched cottages of the villages on its way to the English Channel. Villas and bathing cabins on the seafront evoke its past as a popular seaside resort in the 19th century, Victor Hugo was a fan!

Read more about Veules les Roses here.

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Le Havre’s port is vast. And its contemporary architecture has UNESCO heritage status in recognition of its exceptional urban design on a grand scale. This cruise ship destination city is a vibrant, friendly and fascinating city to visit. The birthplace of impressionism with an arty vibe offers plenty to do in the town. And with big hitters like Honfleur and Etretat just down the road, it’s an ideal weekend destination…

Take a wander in Le Havre

Le Havre’s architecture is unique. This post-war built metropolis is sometimes likened to a Soviet-Style city – grand, imposing and grey. But once you visit you’ll see there’s much more to it than meets the eye. Yes, it’s concrete, yes there are rows of apartment blocks, built quickly to house those who’d lost their homes during WWII. But it has a charm of its own, there’s elegance in the lines, grandeur in the scale and art in the design.

Pop into lead architect August Perret’s show flat to see what it was like to live in one of these buildings in the 1940s and 50s. Browse the bookshelves in the Oscar Niemeyer designed library, an extraordinary yoghurt-pot shaped building. Visit the church of St Joseph, an architectural landmark with astonishing stained glass windows. And take a dip at Jean Nouvel’s glorious Les Bain des Docks.

It’s just a short walk from the city centre to Le Havre’s beach, 2km of sand and pebbles, a big draw for the locals as well as for savvy visitors. The beach hosts the biggest free skate park in France (a legend amongst skate boarders) and in the summer there are water sports, fun activities and pop up restaurants. It’s from here that Claude Monet painted “Impression, Rising Sun” which kickstarted the impressionist movement.

Further round the coast is the beach of Saint-Adresse. Here the resort and old houses are built on the slopes of Cape Hève, the gateway to the Alabaster Coast. It’s a great place to drink in the spectacular sea views, just as Monet loved to do.

Tip: Take a guided tour of the harbour or visit the historic docks by boat, it’s especially good in the evening when the twinkling lights are reflected on the water.

Lunch at the seaside

All that walking is sure to build up an appetite. Get a dose of fresh sea air and lunch al fresco on sunny days, there’s plenty of choice along the coastline. For sea views and that real seaside feel head to Au Bout du Monde in the Saint-Adresse quarter. If you love watching the big ships go by, you’ll enjoy the restaurants along the Southampton Wharf Area.

Aperitifs and dinner in town

Indulge in a Kir Normand – cider and cassis. Try the English pub style L’Etavles with its roof top seating area; there’s lots of choice in the area around the indoor market in the town. Feast on a bowl of steaming local mussels and chips and mop up the juices with a hunk of delicious fresh bread. Enjoy a great Norman cheese –  Pont L’Eveque, Neufchatel en Bray, Camembert  are all local favourites. And end with an apple and almond delight – tarte Normande. The perfect way to finish the day.

Cultural Venues

Musee d’Art Modern Andre Malraux

An arts museum with a superb collection of impressionist paintings. The MUMA, Musee d’Art Modern Andre Malraux, was the first major museum to be built in France after WW2. There’s a collection which represents some of the most important art movements of the last 300 years: Fauvist art, Art Deco and 20th century art amongst others. The Impressionist collection contains masterpieces by Monet, Renoir, Sisley and Degas.

Le Havre Natural History Museum

The Natural History Museum has fun and interactive temporary exhibitions related to the animal, plant and mineral world, as well as a strong archaeology section. It’s particularly good for a rainy day and for families.

Maison de L’Armateur

The 18^th century Shipowner’s House givers a glimpse into the daily life of a wealthy Le Havre sea merchant. Beautifully decorated and furnished rooms in a 5 storey house with a fabulous central sky light make for a fabulous step back in time.

Hotel Dubocage de Bleville museum

In a mansion which once belonged to Michel Joseph Dubocage, a merchant sailor which a penchant for collecting things, you’ll discover the maritime history of Le Havre – and a charming collection of chinaware.

If you’ve got time on your visit to Le Havre, there’s lots to see close by….

Trip to Honfleur

Honfleur is a complete contrast to Le Havre though it’s just 30 minutes away by car or public transport. Stuffed with half-timber houses and cobbled streets which spread out from the central port commissioned by Louis XIV. The Impressionists set up their easels and captured the town’s charm from the Vieux Basin to the alleys of the Sainte-Catherine district. Cross the impressive Pont de Normandie to get there – an adventure in itself!

More on Honfleur

Trip to Etretat

In the opposite direction, 40 minutes by car  lies the glorious countryside and stunning natural wonder of Etretat. Famous for its Porte d’Aval rock formation flanked by the  majestic Aiguille (needle). The natural sculptures of the Alabaster coast fascinated Monet and it’s not hard to see why. Climb to the top of the chalk cliff of Amont cliff to visit the charming little chapel Notre-Dame de la Garde and enjoy magnificent views over the sea.

Top things to see and do in Le Havre

Further afield

Deauville and Trouville – discover the “Norman Riviera” neighbouring seaside towns that are firm favourites with Parisians

Barfleur – what to see and do in the ancient town

Find our more: Le Havre Tourism; UKFrancefr

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To understand what WW2 was truly like, you must take a trip to Normandy, France to see where some of the most monumental events took place. The turning point of the war occurred in this region and the battle sites are meticulously preserved with many relics. It makes Normandy a must-visit to learn about and understand these historical events.

Nothing compares to standing at wartime sites like the beaches of Normandy with a guide bringing the historic events to life by retelling the intricate details of what happened in the places they occurred. TripUSAFrance offers incredible multi-day tours of the region. There are so many sites to visit and most people don’t have the time to see all of them in one trip. But some are simply unmissable. These are TripUSAFrance’s top 5 must-see WW2 sites in Normandy:

Omaha Beach

Omaha Beach is one of the beaches where American forces landed during the Allied invasion of France. It’s also where the bloodiest battle was fought. This was the turning point in the war when the Allies broke through Hitler’s “Atlantic Wall” and entered France. While you may have seen the powerful images of Robert Capa and read the words of Ernie Pyle describing the events that occurred on June 6, 1944, nothing matches the impact of walking where the soldiers landed to free France from German Occupation.

As you gaze at the hills, it is easy to imagine the difficulty the men faced in capturing the beach. The main area covers just about 1.5 miles. But, it’s estimated that Germany had enough power in the hills to unload 100,000 shots per minute. As you look across the water today, a peaceful scene unfolds with little hint of the sacrifices made by those brave soldiers.

Longues-sur-Mer

This is one of the most authentic sites that you can visit in Normandy. Wonderfully restored and conserved, the area looks just like it did when the Allied troops arrived along this stretch of the coast. Out of four original German bunkers, three remain in well-preserved condition. They are the only bunkers which remain in France that still house the original 150mm cannons, placed there to ward off incoming ships. At the site there are smaller air and land defense bunkers as well as a command post where firing orders were given.

The sight of the massive cannons surrounded by 5-to-6-foot thick concrete walls is astonishing. It enables you to develop an in-depth understanding of the efforts that went into holding France. Hitler’s army had spent more than two years building up these defenses, and many others like it, along 1,670 miles of the Atlantic coast in Europe. However, Allied troops were able to penetrate the “Atlantic Wall” containing more than 1.2 million pounds of steel and 17 million cubic meters of concrete. It was the largest seaborne invasion in military history.

This site was captured by soldiers of the Devonshire Regiment on June 7. A guided visit reveals intricate details about the history and role played in the battle of D-Day. After the war, most of the defenses and fortifications of the Atlantic Wall were quickly dismantled. Understandably as they served as a painful memory of the past. Here however, conservationists worked tirelessly to preserve this site so that we remember the lessons learned during World War II.

Pointe du Hoc

This site makes our list as it was where the famed US Ranger operation, depicted in the movie “The Longest Day”, took place. A strategic point, the Germans built a large battery complex of artillery cannons. They had a range of 12.5 miles and could fire at incoming ships. They could also reach the beaches of Omaha and Utah.

34-year-old Lieutenant Colonel James E. Rudder was given the daunting task of landing on the beaches below the artillery battery. During low tide with 225 Army Rangers. Using ropes and ladders, they scaled a 100-plus foot granite hill cliff to silence the guns amidst heavy resistance at the top. At the time, an intelligence officer on staff was heard stating “Three old women with brooms could keep the Rangers from climbing that cliff”. Lieutenant General Omar N. Bradley later wrote, “No soldier in my command has ever been wished a more difficult task than that which befell the thirty-four-year-old Commander of this Provisional Ranger Force”.

One of the keys to the allied victory here is that they knew that they must capture the artillery located at the top of the hill. Failure would result in many of their brothers in arms being killed on Omaha Beach. At the end of the assault, only 90 men were left. Many lives were saved thanks to their bravery. As you explore this site while listening to the details of the battle, you can’t help but be amazed at their courage.

Normandy American Cemetery

Many visitors to Normandy describe the Normandy American Cemetery as the most powerful of all World War II sites that they visit. Here is where 9,386 American patriots are buried. An additional 1,557 still missing are also honored. As you stroll the pristine paths of the graveyard located high on a hill overlooking Omaha Beach, it’s impossible not to feel moved by the tragedy of such loss. For a truly emotional experience, make your way to the two flag posts in front of the reflecting pool around 4:45pm (during the summer months) to watch the flag ceremony and listen as the bugle call “Taps” is played.

Arromanches-les-Bains

If you could step back in time to before the D-Day invasion, then you would discover Arromanches-les-Bains as a luxury spa town filled with tourists. All that changed when the attack took place. This site was the key to supporting the British and American armies after they landed in France. Engineers constructed an artificial harbor to supply the troops and bring in machinery. Remnants of the harbor remain visible, and pieces are displayed around the area and in museums.

Known as Mulberry Harbor, it was also called Port Winston after Winston Churchill. If you don’t go with a guide, you should visit the Musée du Débarquement in the town. It has an extraordinary exhibition where you can learn more about the staggering work required to create the harbor. 2.5 million men, 500,000 vehicles and 4 million tons of supplies were moved through this port.

For the full experience of visiting sites with a knowledgeable local tour guide who will bring the history to life, TripUSAFrance’s Normandy discovery tour will take you to all 5 of these WW2 sites as well as immersing you into the history, culture and gastronomy of the area. The tour also includes Mont Saint-Michel, Monet’s house and garden, Honfleur, Rouen, Bayeux Tapestry, markets, fabulous restaurants and much more…

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Lyons-la-Foret is a picturesque village, hidden in the heart of one of the oldest and largest forests of Normandy, where the beech trees are several centuries old.

Like many pretty villages in Normandy, there are magnificent half-timbered houses, pink brick or tinted cob style, typical of the region and mostly dating from the 17th to the 18th century. This miniature medieval village with 800 inhabitants has tearooms, cosy restaurants, and antiques shops luring you in…

What to fall in love with at Lyons-la-Foret

You won’t be surprised to discover that many artists have made their way to the Eure department to stay in this village. Claude Monet and Jean Dollfus captured the beauty in their paintings. The composer Maurice Ravel penned some his most wonderful compositions in Lyons-la-Foret. Poet Isaac de Benserade, a great rival of Molière at the court of Louis XIV, lived there in the 17th century.

Lyons-la-Foret maybe recognized by eagle eyed movie fans – it was the location for two different movies versions of Gustave Flaubert’s novel “Madame Bovary”, one by Jean Renoir in the 1920’s and later by Claude Chabrol in 1990.

The village has 11 remarkable heritage elements or Historic Monuments. Here are some you shouldn’t miss when you visit, and don’t forget to pop to the tourist office. The friendly team are happy to advise you on places to visit.

The history of Lyons-la-Foret

The village was built on the border between the former Kingdom of France and the Duchy of Normandy. Records from 936 reveal that William I, Duke of Normandy used to stay there. He was fond of the forest and established a vast residence there. In 1060, William the Conqueror ordered the construction of an important fortress in Lyons, which was considered a strategic location. Henry I of England, also known as “Henri Beauclerc”, son of William the Conqueror completed the build.

Lyons-la-Forêt became French in 1202 when king Philippe Augustus of France conquered the city and the castle. From then on, the castle of Lyons became a royal residence. Several French kings sojourned here, lured by the forest and good hunting grounds. The English took Lyons during the Hundred Years’ War and dismantled the castle in 1436.

It stood where today you will find the famous Place Benserade in the center of Lyons-la-Forêt. The streets in the town centre form a central ring around the old feudal mound.

What to visit in Lyons-la-Forêt

The covered market

A must in Lyons-la-Forêt! It is in the heart of the village. This covered market dates from the 14th century and has never been modified. It was built with oak wood from the Lyons forest. In 1776, the Duke of Penthièvre carried out a restoration of the covered market to protect it. The local producers market takes place three times a week – Thursday, Saturday and Sunday mornings. Exhibitions by contemporary artists and concerts also take place at this classified as a historic monument.

Maurice Ravel’s house

You will find Maurice Ravel’s house, known as “Le Fresne”, in rue d’Enfer. He lived here until the 1920s and notably composed the Tombeau de Couperin while there. Locally the street is called “Hell” because it is steep and was difficult for horse-drawn carriages and walkers. Unfortunately, this house cannot be visited as it now belongs to a private individual.

Les 3 water mills

Following the river through the village, will bring you to the Place des Trois Moulins. The three water mills were built in the 14th century and in fact Lyons was one of the first places to have electric lighting in France, powered by one of the mills. There is a small but pretty garden popular with petanque players.

Saint-Denis Church

The village was originally called Saint-Denis, and the church of Saint Denis dates mostly from the 15th century, and partially from the 12th century (sections of checkered sandstone and flint walls) and 16th century (bell tower, north chapel, turret and vault).

The Cordeliers convent

The Cordeliers convent was built in 1624 by Jean Le Blanc and Marin Anquetil, prosecutors for King Louis XIII, and by Jean de Courcol. At the time, up to eleven monks lived there on an almost self-sufficient basis and wealthy women were welcomed until the French Revolution. In 1793, the convent was declared a national property and converted into a fabric printing factory, then a glassworks and is now privately owned.

Bénédictines convent

The façade of the Benedictine convent, a classified Historic Monument, is built on the old ramparts of the village. Made of brick, chalk and flint it dates from the 12th century and was used as a hunting lodge by King Charles IX. It was not until the 16th century that it became a convent. Today, it is a primary school.

Take a detour

Lovely Les Andelys and its castle Chateau Gaillard is located 25 minutes away by car

Monet’s house and garden at Giverny are 45 minutes away by car

How to get there

There’s no direct public transport to Lyons-la-Foret. You can take a train from Paris to Gisors or Rouen but there’s no onward bus service, so you’d need to take a taxi.

Chantille de Lincourt is a photographer who specialises in small villages and French heritage. Find out more on her blog www.villagesetpatrimoine.fr

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Le Havre in Normandy was once a hugely popular seaside resort. After the Paris to Le Havre railway line opened in 1847, it brought Parisians in their droves to enjoy the long beaches and take the fresh sea air. But these days it’s famous for its huge port and for its extraordinary architecture. A mid 19th century purpose built city that was a blueprint for modern life.

History of Le Havre

Some people love the modernity of Le Havre (I’m one of them) and some don’t. But you can’t ignore it. It’s one of the few 20th century cities in the world to have received UNESCO heritage listing – and it is extraordinary. There’s nowhere else quite like it in France.

Le Havre was flattened at the end of the Second World War. Around 80% of it had to be rebuilt rapidly to rehouse 80,000 people, many of whom were sheltering in US barracks. Belgium-born architect Auguste Perret, a teacher of Le Corbusier, was appointed to oversee the rebuild between 1946 and 1964. He was a man who simply loved reinforced concrete.

The new city of Le Havre

For me, the layout and the concept of this new city reflects some of the dreams of Le Havre’s creator. King Francis 1, who originally wanted to call it Francisopolis, had the city built in 1517. He had already worked with genius Leonardo da Vinci on an urban planning project. Whilst it wasn’t for Le Havre, the goal was to create an “ideal city” and Da Vinci’s notes show that he included prefabricated houses, improved sanitation, streets that were easy to traverse. Just like Perret’s goal.

Auguste Perret’s vision in Le Havre

In Le Havre, Perret delivered an ideal city 450 years after Le Havre’s creation. He created a sea of concrete buildings, using the material in different ways and instructing the project’s 100 architects to use concrete in all designs. Many of the buildings have a somewhat Soviet air but with a hint of French flair – art deco sculpturing, balconies and French windows.

The view from the 17-storey tower next to the Hôtel de Ville shows a city with straight, wide French boulevards. Avenue Foch, known as the Champs-Elysées of Le Havre at 80m wide is 10m wider than the Paris version.

Perret’s Church of St Joseph, which from the outside is rather utilitarian looking despite it’s rocket like spire which can be seen for miles, is incredible inside. An astonishing mosaic of 12000 tiny stained glass windows in red, orange, gold and violet give it a warm feel. It looks other worldly, like something at of Stargate. Seating is organised in a circle around the concrete altar. Perret died in 1954 before it was completed. Though a lifelong atheist, legend tells that he asked to be baptised here. He also wanted to be buried here but was in fact buried in Paris according to his wife’s wishes. There are just two statues inside, from the original church.

The extraordinary landmarks of Le Havre

Over the years the city has continued to develop and just a few of the unmissable sites are:

Les Bains des Docks aquatic centre designed by legendary architect Jean Nouvel. Don’t miss a chance for a swim in one of its 12 pools when you go to Havre, it’s strikingly beautiful.

Oscar Niemeyer’s Volcanoes make you stop in surprise. The locals call the big volcano which is a theatre, the “yoghurt pot”. You can see why with it’s pure white, sloping sides and flat top. The recently renovated small volcano is now the public library and it’s just as extraordinary inside as it is outside. Anyone can go in – and should, to experience the remarkable interior design, concrete of course in keeping with Le Havre’s architectural theme. It’s like being in a spaceship with viewing windows carved into the thick walls. There are space age seats in bright colours, and a sweeping staircase. There are regular exhibitions and a cool coffee shop. This has to be one of the most remarkable libraries in the world. www.lehavre.fr/annuaire/bibliotheque-oscar-niemeyer

Monet and Le Havre Port

Having spent his childhood in Le Havre, the artist Claude Monet was so moved by it that he painted his most famous work, a view of the port of Le Havre. Named Impression, Rising Sun, it gave the Impressionist movement its name. Monet’s famous house and gardens in Giverny are about 1.5 hours by car from Le Havre.

The port today is the processing point for more shipping containers than any other in France. The city uses them in building – they make funky students flats. And in art where containers have been transformed into an elegant, curvy sculpture by Vincent Ganivet, at Southampton Wharf.

You can take a port tour which is fascinating (website: navigation-normande.fr).

Beach Life

The pebble beach in Le Havre is long and extends round to Saint Adresse which has a sandy beach. Here you’ll find the “Hanging Gardens” overlooking the Bay of the Seine and the Chapel of Notre Dame des Flots, built in 1859. Recently restored, it was originally built for the fishermen to go and pray for a safe voyage. Now full of memorial plates, model ships and paintings and still in use, it’s open through the week and the views from its gardens are lovely.

Culture of Le Havre

There are several museums in the city and culture vultures will find plenty to please including:

MUMA: The Museum of Modern Art was the first purpose built museum in France. It’s impressionist collection is second only to the Musée d’Orsay. Monet, Renoir, Boudin and Pissaro are all featured. Don’t miss the café overlooking the harbour for a break – and the views.

Auguste Perret’s show flat, furnished with 1950s flat-pack space-saving items is genuinely surprising. It wouldn’t look out of place in a chic New York loft! He created a show flat in 1949 to allow local people to see what he was proposing with the rebuilding of Le Havre. Not all of them were impressed by his modern rebuilding of their city. This show flat homage, re-created in 2005, reveals just how visionary he was. The space, 99m₂ exactly (as all the flats are) is beautifully laid out.

One heater in each block provided enough hot air to heat all the flats in the block through a duct system. Folding and double doors meant the apartment was bathed in the special light of Le Havre throughout the day but could create privacy. Bathrooms were in each apartment. It was at a time when many homes still had outdoor loos and tin baths hanging on a wall. Perret’s vision has had worldwide influence and you can see it clearly in this wonderful museum flat. (Details: www.lehavretourisme.com)

Le Havre’s thriving art scene

Le Havre has long attracted artists and many of the artists working in the city today find its architecture a huge inspiration. At the Mascarade Gallery, former graphic designer Masquerade creates vibrant and stunning artworks using Chinese ink and acrylic. His intricate pieces and pop art style pieces are heavily influenced by street art with a Le Havre theme. They make a fabulous colourful memento of your visit.

Pierre Lenoir Vaquero’s unique art gallery and shop is also a beer store. Vaquero, a painter, photographer and sculptor takes Le Havre as his theme. He creates playful pastel coloured paintings of iconic sites. Inspired by concrete he also designs sculptures and ornaments – his small concrete hearts are the ideal souvenir. La Cave a Bieres, 1, rue des Gobelins.

Cyril Plate paints, draws and sculpts. He often uses raw and recycled materials as his inspiration for his paintings, drawing and sculptures. Using a recycled street signs, he created this artwork to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Le Havre.

Eat and drink

There’s plenty of choice and an ever-growing foodie scene, especially along the sea front as Le Havre’s ongoing programme of updating is in progress.

Wine & dine: Les Enfants Sages has a lovely menu, sort of Lyonnaise style with a twist. In an old school masters house, where the rooms are small dining rooms and there’s a pretty garden with tables on the terrace. Relaxed, unpretentious and delicious. It’s really popular so book in advance if you can (you can do it online through their website)

Don’t miss: The Architect is run by Australian Damian Tither. On a visit to Le Havre for a holiday he “fell in love with the architecture, the light and the ambiance”. The restaurant has a great vegetarian menu plus a hint of Aussie cuisine “beer chicken, pulled pork”, plus food with an Asian influence. From the terrace or 50’s style interior you get a ringside view of the ships sailing by. Great for enjoying a pitcher of beer, cocktails or wine (including Australian).

Locals love: Au Caid, next to the Tour Perret is an institution. Opened in 1954, this listed building is cosy and charming and a favourite meeting place for the locals. It’s great for a drink, snack or the seasonal plat du jour.

Beach vibe: Au Bout du Monde is the perfect place to relax and watch the amazing light of Le Havre with a drink. Beach hut style, right on the sea front – the place to go for a fun cocktail list and street food style dishes. 1 Boulevard Foch, 76310 Sainte-Adresse

Useful info

Take a guided tour of the city. Book at the tourist office (my guide Kamil was fabulous).

It’s just 35 mins to Honfleur and 40 mins to Etretat from Le Havre.

You can reach Le Havre easily by train from Paris in about 2.5 hours.

Stay at: Hotel Nomad, a striking building next to Le Havre station and tram stop, easy walking distance to the city centre. Its hi-tech rooms have shower pods featuring mood lighting and ecologically friendly including carpet made from recycled fishing nets. Hot water is from solar panels and there are rainwater flush systems. This is the future of hotels.

Hotel Oscar, on the central square overlooking the Volcano. Mid-19th century chic rules here – think vintage posters and Perret flat-pack furniture.

Find our more: Le Havre Tourism; UKFrancefr

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