Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is best approached from the winding road of the Grand Chemin Val de Gellone. This approach gives you stupendous views of the town which sits atop a hill. When you leave, I recommend you go via the main street on the far side of the town. This long road is lined with boutiques, bistros and artisan workshops.

Officially one of the prettiest villages in France

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is a Plus Beaux Village de France (an official classification for the prettiest villages in France). In the centre, the main square is home to an imposing plane tree. At more than 150 years old, it’s said to be the biggest plane tree in France. All around it, tables and chairs sprawl out from the cafés that line the square. It’s the perfect place to sip chilled wine and nibble on olives as you listed to the cicadas sing.

On one edge of the square sits the Abbey of Gellone. It’s one of the oldest Romanesque churches in France and a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) pilgrim route.

The abbey was founded in 804 by Guilhem, Count of Toulouse. When he moved to this remote location, his cousin the great Emperor Charlemagne, gave him what was said to be a relic of the Holy Cross. This made the abbey an important stop for pilgrims. The well-preserved abbey has an air of serenity to it, and there is a small museum behind the cool cloisters.

A village of legends

Guilhem made the town famous by defeating a giant who took up residence in the ruins of the town’s castle, accompanied by a magpie. The terrified locals asked Guilhem to help rid them of the giant. Guilhem dressed as a maid and, hiding his sword, set out to trick the beast. But he was recognised by the magpie who flew off to warn his mate. Sure of his superiority, the giant ignored the magpie (of course). He fought with the ‘maid’ who (of course) won. And Guilhem threw his opponent off a cliff. The locals claim that though many wild birds live in the area – no-one has ever seen a magpie in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert since that day!

What to see in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert

Around the abbey a warren of narrow cobbled winding alleys spread up and down the hilly town. As you wander, you’ll pass the 12^th century Tour des Prisons. Along the streets, water trickles from ancient fountains. Some of them are decorated with scallop shells, the pilgrims emblem and picturesque ancient houses lean against each under their sun-baked tiled roofs.

Despite the name, you won’t see a desert, the name comes from the fact not many people that lived there centuries ago. Today it gets rather more crowded, especially in peak summer months, though it barely has more than 250 permanent residents.

A stone’s throw from the village you’ll find another incredible monument – the medieval Pont du Diable which arches high above a steep gorge. Legend has it that yet again Guilhem was the hero. The bridge was taking so long to build that Guilhem did a deal with the devil. The evil one agreed to get the job done in return for the first soul to cross after completion. Guilhem sent a dog across and the devil, in a fit of pique tried to destroy the bridge. However he fell into the gorge below which became known as the Gouffre Noir (the black abyss). To this day, pilgrims and locals crossing the bridge throw a stone into the gorge – to keep the devil on the bottom!

A giant’s castle

Embedded in the hills are the remains of a Visigoth fortress. Alongside is an old mule path, trod for centuries by pilgrims and today part of a hike that begins at the edge of the village on the rue du Bout-du-Monde – the street of the end of the world. Take a detour to visit the ruins of the Giant’s castle, a very peaceful spot with fabulous views.

Janine Marsh visited Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert whilst on a CroisiEurope Rhone River tour from Sète to Arles, which includes excursions of the most iconic destinations en route.

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Situated on the south coast of France, Languedoc is one of the biggest wine producing regions in the world. Annual production is the equivalent of 1.8 billion bottles. That’s around 30% of the output of wine produced in France, and more than the whole of Australia’s production. Wine has been grown here since the 5^th century BC when the Greeks introduced vines to the area.

The wily Romans expanded production, knowing a good thing when they drank it. It was also their practice to plant vines as they expanded throughout France – they mixed wine with water because the alcohol kills microorganisms, which helped to keep the army strong and healthy. The prolific production of wine here doesn’t mean lower quality wines. If you’ve not tried Languedoc wine then you really are in for a treat, and if you have, then you’re probably a fan already says Laurent Yung, wine expert at SomMailer, the French wine club in the USA.

The wines of Languedoc

In terms of quality, Languedoc’s wines are considered to be among the best in the world, especially for their red (around 60%) and rosé (around 19% and more than the whole of Provence) wines. However, quality white, sweet and sparkling wines are on the rise. Languedoc boasts varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Marsanne and more! And the area is the largest producer or organic wines in France.

Many of the wineries are small family holdings that date back generations and that handing down of knowledge is part of what makes these wines so very special. Fermenting different grape varieties separately – plus the art of then assembling them – and growing methods, shape Languedoc AOCs, producing structured, full-bodied wines.

Among the 23 Languedoc appellations that unfurl across 40,000 hectares of vineyards, no two wines are alike. The only common denominator since Antiquity is the Mediterranean. The Mediterranean is to thank for the mild, bright winters, the russet of hot, dry summers, the fragrance of scrubland and the winds carrying the sea air.

Saint-Chinian wines

Nestled in the heart of the region of Languedoc-Roussillon the wine appellation Saint-Chinian (AOC Saint Chinian) is one of the best areas for wine. Spread across some 3,300 hectares, it’s home to 450 wine producers including 110 wineries and 8 cooperatives. There are rich pickings here for the wine connoisseur, with an abundance of different grapes, blends and processes. Historically producing red and rosés but more recently producing classified whites too. Whether you’re a serious and informed wine drinker or just an enthusiast starting out on your wine journey – the wines of Saint-Chinian are really pretty much unbeatable.

A historic area with long summers

And what about the area? Languedoc takes in the Roman town of Nîmes, with hints of the Camargue and the Cévennes. The arty city of Montpellier with its historical heritage and Béziers, a town that has endured 27 centuries of history peppered with periods of prosperity, revolt and massacre. Narbonne, described as a little Rome, and unforgettable Carcassonne, boasting the biggest medieval fortress-town in Europe.

It can get very hot here in the summer months. Autumns and springs are mild, although morning frosts are sometime seen into the month of April. Winters are mild and sunny with temperatures barely dipping below 0°C. Rainfall levels are low (among the lowest in France in some communes). The Tramontane wind is omnipresent, drying the vines and warding off disease. It is an ideal climate for growing vines. But the Mediterranean’s grasp is reduced in the far west of the region. In the appellations of Cabardès and Malepère in particular, the climate is transitional: the mild Atlantic meets the intense Mediterranean.

The terroir of Languedoc

And the terroir (that impossible to translate French word which refers to the soil and growing conditions) differs vastly across the region, depending on ancient geological formations. In some parts terraces of smooth pebbles, sandstone and marl. In others you’ll find limestone and shale, clay soil, pudding stone, sandy soil, molasse, etc. It gives wines grown here unique qualities and a whole range of very different tastes. There are countless aromatic variations – sometimes even within the same appellation. The soils play a very important role because they dictate what grape varietal is grown. Grapes are very picky about heat and water retention. They have very demanding preferences on what kind of soil type they like best! And because of the large array of soil types, Languedoc-Roussillon can offer many different wines to please every sipper.

Shop Wines from Languedoc with SomMailier.com, the French Wine Club in the USA, and get 10% off your first order with the code TGLF2022

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La Couvertoirade may be one of the prettiest places in France that you never heard of. Deep in the heart of the Aveyron department, southeast France, the little village of La Couvertoirade provides a glimpse into a long-gone past. It is one of the best preserved Templar Knights villages in France. And it’s a classified plus beaux village – officially one of the prettiest villages in France…

La Couvertoirade

La Couvertoirade is located in territory known as the Causses and Cevennes. This UNESCO classified World Heritage site is listed for its ‘agro-pastoral cultural landscape of the Mediterranean’. It’s a rather dry description of a stunningly beautiful area of France. You’ll discover exquisite countryside where villages in the valleys look as though they have been hung on the sides of the hills like baubles on a Christmas tree. The area touches on four departments: Aveyron and Lozère in the Midi-Pyrénées region, and Gard and Herault in Languedoc-Roussillon.

La Couvertoirade looks out over the Larzac plateau, a land of fertile valleys and villages which seem to grow out of the rocks. In the 12^th century, this area was considered the private fiefdom of the crusading Knights Templar and later the Knights Hospitaller. And in La Couvertoirade you’ll find the only castle built by the Knights Templar in France.

What to see in La Couvertoirade

There’s plenty to see and fall in love with as you wander the narrow cobbled alleyways lined with ancient houses. The atmospheric 14^th century church of Saint Christophe is reached by steps cut into the rock. The 14^th century Windmill of Le Rédounel is the only restored windmill in Aveyron. From its hilly position you have fabulous views over the village. The wonderfully preserved Templar castle was built at the end of the 12^th century and last updated in the 15^th century. It sits atop a rocky spur, dominating the town with its imposing high walls.

“It’s so extraordinary that when you walk around the medieval ramparts, you know that these walls are original. It’s easy to imagine that the Knights Templar and generations of people since who have walked here. Like us they have stood and gazed out at the astonishing views” says Julia Girard-Gervois of TripUSAFrance. “It never ceases to amaze me just how absolutely gorgeous this village is. Lovely cobbled streets, beautiful grey stone houses and flowers and vines everywhere. It’s been likened to a miniature Carcassonne and it really is incredibly pretty.”

Authentic and fantastic

Just an hour’s drive from the city of Montpellier and close to the beautiful village of Saint-Guilhelm-le-Desert, La Couvertoirade has an epic history. “This is no museum town though” says Julia. “It’s brimming with history and vibrant with artisans, potters, wool spinners and more. It’s not hard to imagine it how it was in the days of the Templars. There’s even a communal bread oven at the windmill which has been restored and once a week you can taste bread and other local specialities.”

This little village certainly lives up to its Plus Beaux Village award…

3 Must-sees in Aveyron

Aveyron is a land that echoes with the past. Every densely wooded gorge and valley, every ancient bastide town and every winding road seems to whisper of the footsteps of pilgrims making their way south. Of Romans and rebellious Gauls. And of Knights Templars, thundering across the plateaux. It’s a place where you’ll find picture-postcard-pretty medieval villages, historic towns, rolling valleys and vast canyons where rivers roam and forests reach to the sky. Here you’ll find authentic markets, ancient churches clinging to rocky cliffs and divine cathedrals with soaring towers. There are ancient castles and museums galore. It’s a land that’s rich in natural beauty, as well as cultural and spiritual. We picked just 3 of the many must-sees in Aveyron:

Conques

This is a village with an inescapably spiritual feel. It is a towering masterclass in Romanesque engineering and architecture (the Abbey of St. Foy) and the very tangible memory of the weary feet of pilgrims, shuffling along the well-worn streets. The village has a genuine sense of hushed reverence with its medieval walls, slate roof tops, forgotten gates, time worn 11^th century fountains, narrow, cobbled streets. The views will leave you in stunned and silent awe and contemplation. Read more about Conques

Belcastel

The village is well deserving of its “plus beaux villages de France” status because, yet again, here is a place in the Aveyron that is shockingly beautiful, with the gentle tumble of water from the River Aveyron in the background and its steep, cobbled streets leading up to the castle. If you’ve got the time, have lunch at the Vieux Pont (a Michelin star restaurant in the village. Then walk off your indulgences with the climb (and it really is a climb) up to the castle.

Rodez

Certified as a “grand site Midi Pyrénées and “pays d’art et d’histoire”  Rodez is a city which, like so many in France really seems to enjoy mixing the old and the new whether that’s in terms of art, architecture, gastronomy or culture. A small city which clings to the last of the mountains of the Massif Central and dozes quietly 600 metres above sea level. It was originally two cities and is ever so slightly disjointed, with two city squares and a heady combination of gothic and renaissance architecture, hand in hand with the ultra-modern Musée Soulages. Read more about Belcastel and Rodez

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Gascony was England’s first colony, its influence reflected in the historically rich fortified villages, ancient cathedrals, grand chateaux and beautiful gardens which dot the region. Today, old Gascony, the land of swashbuckling Musketeers and dapper Counts, virtually coincides with the Gers, department 32, one of the original 83 departments created during the French Revolution.

The Gers is far enough off the beaten path to retain its identity, yet established enough to cater to travellers. Located south of the main autoroute linking Bordeaux to Toulouse, the Gers offers an intimate portrait of French rural life without the distraction of crowds. The landscape is characterized by green river valleys, bucolic farmland, and undulating hills of vineyards and sunflowers that stretch to the horizon. The only pauses in the department’s tranquillity are the many summer festivals and year-round farmers’ markets.

History

Roman Ruins

The Via Aquitania, one of the important Roman highways that traversed France from Bordeaux to Narbonne, had a station at Eauze. Originally the capital of a Celtic tribe called the Elusatii, it became a significant village after Julius Caesar’s conquest of Gaul. There are three exceptional examples of Gallo-Roman architecture in and around this village. The Musée du Trésor displaying some 28,000 coins, and 50 magnificent pieces of jewellery from the 3rd century. The Domus de Cieutat, an archeological excavation at the residence of an aristocrat during the 3rd century. And the Villa de Séviac, an  excavation below the village of Montréal-du-Gers displays large parts of a Gallo-Roman villa with stunning mosaic floors, and remains of a thermal spa complex. www.elusa.fr

Medieval Villages

Between 1256 and 1325 over 300 bastides (fortified villages) were built in fifteen departments in southwest France. The Gers has over a dozen beautiful examples. Laid out according to a geometric plan, a central square was always included. Often there was a covered market hall and arcaded shops. These villages were organized around three essential elements of peasant life: the cemetery, church and the castle. Each village has retained its own architectural identity, from the round, fortified village of Fourcès, to the arcaded villages of Tillac and St. Clar.

Gastronomy

The Gers is authentically farm to table. It’s a culinary heartland comprising a cornucopia of free-range poultry, goose and duck foie gras, confit, paté, pink and white garlic, earthy mushrooms, tender asparagus, ripe tomatoes, sweet plums, and succulent melons. The Gersois believe good food, carefully prepared, is not a luxury, but a common daily priority. In a department  where food is profoundly revered, it’s easy to find a delicious meal every day of the week, though usually between noon and two. Mealtimes are charmingly sacrosanct.

Wine

The Gers has been home to viticulture for almost 2,000 years. No longer lost in the shadow of Bordeaux, it is fast becoming a hot spot, producing some of the finest white, red, and rosé craft wines in France. Small, independent domaines such as Pellehaut, Chirolet, and Uby, as well as the larger domaines of Côtes de Gascogne, Tariquet, St. Mont, and the very distinctive Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh, and Madiran AOCs are now producing award winning appellations. Madiran, the most tannic wine in France, is particularly unique due to its high levels of resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant.

Armagnac

France’s oldest brandy has been produced in the Gers since the 14th century. The first evidence of its use dates back to the year 1310/ Then Maître Vital Dufour, prior of Eauze and Saint Mont, extolled the 40 virtues of Aygue Ardente. Its grapes are grown in three distinct areas: Haut-Armagnac, Ténarèze and Bas-Armagnac. Each domaine has its own unique recipe in contrast to its industrialized, twice distilled cousin, Cognac.

Armagnac is distilled once. No additives are permitted at any stage from grape to bottle. It is the most natural, and elegant brandy in France. The spectrum of producers range from the Domaine de Laberdolive touted by Michelin-starred restaurants, to Domaine de Saoubis, one of the few Armagnac producers that is completely organic and biodynamic.

Floc de Gascogne

This seductive aperitif, which means “bouquet of flowers” in Occitan was officially launched as Floc de Gascogne in 1954. It is a fruity, red or white liqueur composed of two-thirds grape juice and one-third young Armagnac. Once the grapes have been harvested and pressed, the unfermented grape juice is added to Armagnac distilled the previous year on the same property. Eighty percent of Floc de Gascogne AOC is produced in the Gers.

Nature

The Gers department, considered the heart of Gascony, is characterized by its tranquil landscape and agreeable microclimate. The hills are topped with medieval villages. The valleys are criss-crossed by rivers and streams. Wooded copses, folded into the landscape, often conceal a multitude of birds and wildlife. Rows of golden-yellow sunflowers stretch to the horizon in July.

With few towns or villages to interrupt a leisurely walk or ride, the countryside is Elysian. There are also a several cultivated gardens worth seeing. The Jardins de Coursiana botanical garden and arboretum covers 6 hectares, located in the lovely village of La Romieu. Palmerie de Sarthou in Bétous, is an 8-hectare oasis of botanical splendor. It has a conservatory orchard, children’s treasure hunt, Gascon farm, nursery, and integrated trails. www.jardinsdecoursiana.com; www.palmeraiesarthou.com

Farmers’ Markets

Almost every village in the Gers has a weekly farmers’ market, some of which have been ongoing for 700 years. Market days are typically held under a medieval covered marketplace or the shade of entwined plane trees. One can buy everything from farm fresh produce, delectable cheeses, and roasted chickens, to flowers, table clothes, shoes, and crockery by the kilo. There is literally something for everybody. Most market days begin at 8 and finish by noon. In some villages you can still hear the lunch siren sound, an old custom designed to call together farm workers out in the fields. During the summer months there are also night markets, a convivial social occasion for locals and tourists alike. The town of Samatan (photo above) is where you’ll find one of the biggest and best markets.

Festivals

Every village in the Gers has a festival whether it’s a gathering in the village foyer or an outright street party. There is no doubt that the Gerois love a good party. The 13th century village of Marciac hosts one of the biggest jazz festivals in Europe. Les Territoires du Jazz, takes place each August, a fortnight dedicated to jazz. The village on Vic-Fezensac hosts Tempo Latino at the end of July.

The village of Condom hosts Bandas every second weekend of May  with 35 bands and 2000 musicians (brass and percussion), accompanied by street dancing. In arenas throughout the summer the Course Landaise is welcomed. It is one of the 4 traditional forms of bullfighting, but there is no killing of the bull, it’s a purely acrobatic showcase.

Abbeys

There are some beautiful examples of religious architecture in the Gers. One of these, is the austere, yet elegant, Abbaye de Flaran, nestled below the hilltop village of Valence-sur-Baïse. The abbey was founded by the Cistercians in 1151. The complex, includes a medicinal garden and a small museum dedicated to Saint Jacques-de-Compostelle. In the former monks’ dormitory there is a display of  artworks by Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, Monet, Braque, from the “Simonow” collection. There are also temporary exhibitions of ancient or contemporary art, classical music concerts and many other activities throughout the year. www.tourisme-condom.com

Churches

Churches in the Gers were often built in the southern Gothic style, which emerged in France in 1140, and was dominant until the mid-16th century. They share three major characteristics: ribbed vaults, flying buttresses and strained glass with at least one rose window. Although most of these churches are technically called cathedrals, they are essentially basic houses of worship because they are no longer run by bishops. Most churches in the department were either damaged or destroyed during the Wars of Religion and the French Revolution. The smaller, picturesque churches that dot the countryside are always closed, but sometimes you can ask for a key at the mayor’s office. Cathedrals and small churches were an integral part of village life in the countryside.

Castles

There are more than 95 castles including towers, dungeons, and dovecotes (pigeonniers) in the Gers. Many chateaux are little more than ruins, while others are private homes. Some of them are open to the public, and are definitely worth a tour.

Chateau de Terraube  is a typically Gascon castle built around 1272 for the de Galard family, Merovingian dukes of Gascony. There is a date over the doorway confirms this. The de Galards have owned the castle ever since. It was enlarged in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Stone decorations include animals, people, gargoyles and coats of arms, including those of the Galards, on a chimney.

The chateau has been listed as a historic monument since 1947. It is open to the public during cultural events. There is an antique fair held on the chateau grounds in September. It’s a good place to look for silverware, jewellery, furniture, carpets, books, linen, paintings, and porcelain.

Chateau de Cassaigne  is comprised of two castles, each privately owned. The buildings date from the 13th, 15th and 18th centuries. Worth noting are the façades and roofs, including those of the common buildings, the moat and bridge, the 18th century dining room and its chimney and the ground floor kitchen in the north wing. The Château de Cassaigne has been listed as a historic monument since 1987. www.chateaudecassaigne.com

Chateau de Lavardens is a massive structure that dates from 1620 onwards. It was built based around an earlier castle from the 13th century, which was dismantled in 1496 by Charles VIII following a siege. It is open to the public and holds art exhibits and cultural activities year round.

National Treasure

D’Artagnan was not just a fictionalized character from Alexandre Dumas the elder’s novels! He was a real person by the name of Charles Ogier de Batz-Castelmore D’Artagnan. A valiant soldier, he became Captain of the Musketeers, and was answerable only to the Sun King, himself, Louis XIV.

D’Artagnan was born in the ancient village of Lupiac in 1611, son of Bertrand de Batz and Françoise de Montesquiou d’Artagnan. In the 1630’s he travelled to Paris and became one of the Musketeers, living a life of daring and espionage. In 1655 he became Captain of the Musketeers and in 1667 he was promoted to governor of Lille. Longing to return to the exciting life he once knew, Louis IV ordered him to the field of battle during the Franco-Dutch war. He died there, at the siege of Maastricht in 1673.

In the center of Lupiac you’ll find the Musée D’Artagnan housed in the Chapelle Notre Dame. If the weather is warm you might want to take very short drive to Lac de Lupiac. It’s a beautifully kept 32 acre swimming, fishing, canoeing, and kayaking lake with a Gidget Goes Hawaiian Bar serving drinks, food and entertainment all summer long. www.lupiac.fr

Find more info at: www.guide-du-gers.com/en

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures, which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures in the Gers/Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn and beyond…

More on the Gers area

Discover Gorgeous Gers

Road Trip Gers

The officially prettiest villages in the Gers

What to see and do in Auch

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In the regional natural park of Auvergne there are 80 volcanoes spread over an area 32km long and 4km wide. They are a sort of living open air museum, the fires that once raged in them, long burned out. Over time, nature has covered them in wild flower pastures, shrubs, forests and brilliant greenery and they now form a unique and distinctive plateau of peaks and slopes, cones and craters. Known as the Chaine des Puys, the area is a UNESCO listed world heritage site.

It’s an area which is ideal for walking and hiking, with routes to suit all levels.

Puy de Dôme

The Puy de Dôme is nicknamed the Giant of the Domes. Appearing to burst through the land, it’s the highest volcano in the Puys chain and is the symbol of Auvergne. The Romans chose it’s summit as the ideal place to build a temple to Mercury. You can’t help but pity the workforce who had to drag the materials 4,850 feet up those slopes. You can still see the remains of the temple at the top.

If you’re fit enough, a walk provides fabulous views. Or hop on the electric cog train that winds up to the top in a rather more civilised 15 minutes. From here, you’ll have a birds eye view over the regional natural park and the Auvergne volcanoes with the chain of Puys, the Dore mountains and the mountains of Cantal. On a fine day you can see as far as the city of Clermont-Ferrand, and beyond, the mountains of Forez. Puy is a geological term used locally in the Auvergne meaning volcanic hill.

Puy Mary

A classified “Grand Site de France”, Puy Mary is one of the most visited sites in Auvergne. And it’s a classified Grand National Site of France. Located in the south of the volcanic natural park, this iconic pyramid rises 1,787 metres above sea level and was formed some 6.5 million years ago. There are superb views  from the top which look over the mountains of Cantal, the dome of Puy Griou and the Plomb du Cantal. It’s not an easy walk to the peak but there are plenty of places to stop en route and get your breath back.

Puy de Sancy

At 1,885 metres, Puy de Sancy is the highest point of the Massif Central. It’s also the tallest volcano in metropolitan France. The alpine crest, steep slopes and jagged ridges contrast with the other peaks of the Massif Central. Take an exhilrating cable car ride almost to the top. It carries you more than 450 metres in four minutes! Then continue the 20 minute climb to the apex on foot, via a wooden staircase.

Puy du Pariou

You might recognise this rather small 8,000-year-old volcano. With its characteristic silhouette, It’s the star of Volvic water commercials. Reaching 1,290 metres above sea level, this volcano has two hiking trails (around 2 hours there and back) to the top where you have fabulous views over Clermont-Ferrand. You can even descend into its centre to explore the bottom of the crater (allow about an hour to walk down and back).

Puys de la Vache and de Lassolas

Twin volcanoes, born from the same eruption share key characteristics: their stony slopes indicate that their craters are not closed. The red earth of these volcanoes is Mars-like and they are great for a hike. A tour of Puy de la Vache takes about 1h30 (3 km), and Puy de Lassolas takes about 2h30 (5 km).

Puy de Lemptégy

Born 30,000 years ago, the Puy de Lemptégy was mined for its volcanic slag leaving it open in an unusual and striking way. The colours and layers of strata can be clearly seen which has made it a popular visit. It is like an amphitheater of volcanic history. You can enter the volcano on foot or take the 2.5 hour little train guided tour, an immersive experience which includes a simulator ride.

More on the Auvergne

Guide to a weekend in the Auvergne

Searching for a long lost cheese of the Auvergne

Discovering the Auvergne

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Between the Pyrenees and the Atlantic ocean lies Béarn, a historical region. It’s in the department of the Pyrénées-Atlantiques in the furthest corner of southwest France. The region is often a surprise to visitors with glorious countryside, historic towns and a rich culture. This is a lush land of rolling emerald-green hills on which honey coloured cattle called La Blonde d’Aquitaine graze. From the top of the hills which dot the land, you’ll find spectacular views of the mountain chain of the Pyrénées. The region is blessed with a mild, temperate climate. A healthy rainfall supports a thriving agricultural industry while the farmers take intense care and pride in maintaining the countryside.

Pau, capital of Bearn

Pau is the capital of Béarn. It can trace its roots to the settlement of the Romans at the beginning of the first century. It is the birthplace of one of France’s most famous kings, Henry IV (1553-1610), father of Louis XIII (1601-1643).

The Pyrénées mountains dominate the views from Pau with the Pic du Midi the tallest at 2877m. It stands out with its jagged edges like a chipped tooth. The region offers a wide choice of activities ranging from skiing in the winter to summer hiking and mountain biking. The area often plays host to the gruelling climbs of the Tour de France.

For motor racing enthusiasts the Grand Prix takes place annually in the streets of Pau. It is the oldest town race in France and offers a challenging circuit that has been driven by top Formula one drivers including Lewis Hamilton.

The river Le Gave de Pau which runs down from the mountains towards the mouth of the Atlantic, is great for canoeing and rafting.

The Way of St James, Camino de Santiago pilgrim route runs through Béarn and a very small part of it goes through the national forest of Pau, the Forêt de Bastard. The most important village for the Pilgrim Route is the medieval town of Lescar, former capital of Béarn. It’s a 10-minute drive from Pau. Here you will find a charming Romanesque Cathedral and shelter for pilgrims.

Wine and castles

South of Pau is the wine-growing region of Jurançon. Here dry and sweet white wines are produced, cultivated from the Manseng grape. There is a local legend that the baby Prince Henry of Navarre (later Henry IV) was fed a tablespoon of this wine to give him the best start in life and the strength to one day rule!

The Chateau du Pau, built in 1370, evolved from a fortress to become the residence of the rulers of Navarre. The façade is decorated with the monograms of Henry IV and his wife Marguerite of Valois. Famous guests include Napoleon Bonaparte and Marie Antoinette who is said to have helped to cultivate the chateau’s gardens during her summer stays. The castle is open to the public and has a large collection of tapestries and furnishings including a memorable table that can seat 100 guests. There is also a famous turtle shell brought from the Americas. It is said to have served as a cradle for the baby Prince Henry.

Around Pau

Pau is surrounded by beautiful villages and small towns between the rolling countryside and the Pyrenees. Orthez for instance, with its medieval Pont Vieux bridge keep over the Gave de Pau. The battle of Orthez (1814), was fought here during the Peninsular War resulting in a victory for the Duke of Wellington. It is marked by the Monument du General Foy on the outskirts of the town.

Salies–de-Béarn is also worth a visit. This Spa town is noted for its discovery of famous salt crystals in the nearby marshes and has a museum dedicated to the tradition of salt making. Close by is Sauveterre-de-Béarn, a very pretty fortified medieval town.

Navarrenx is a very well preserved fortified town with a magnificently intact wall. It was the first bastioned city in France. Today it’s a a listed Plus Beaux Village de France (prettiest villages of France). The Three Musketeers, Athos, Porthos and Aramis (who was named after his small town in Béarn), all came from  Béarn and spent time in Navarrenx. From here it is easy to head towards the Pyrenees via Oloron-Saint-Marie where you can visit the UNESCO listed Cathedral Saint-Marie with its Romanesque doorway. And don’t miss the historic and elevated Quartier Saint-Croix which sits on the original Roman settlement. The town is also home to the last beret maker left in France.

Mountains and grottoes

The beauty of this region is enhanced by the Ossau Valley, carpeted in every shade of green. From here you can wind your way towards the resort town of d’Artouse and ogle the Pic du Midi on its doorstep. A cable car will bring you to the top of the mountain. And, from there, hop on a train to meander through breath-taking scenery before ending your journey at the lake d’Artouste. The ride takes about 50 minutes. Or, you can hike it which takes around three hours.

Last but by no means least on the list of places to visit is the Grottes de Betharram. It is a pristine example of what lays beneath the stunning countryside. Discovered in 1810, it was formed by tiny droplets of water over tens and thousands of years. The constant dripping forms stalagmites, creating astounding illusions of grand halls, human like figures and ceilings draped by nature’s graphic designs. It’s a good idea to bring a jumper because it’s nippy down there!

The region is around an hour from the Atlantic Ocean and borders Spain. Two motorways run through the region, the A64 and the A65 and there is an international airport in Pau. The French regional train service and TGV stops at Orthez and Pau connecting Béarn with Toulouse, Bordeaux and Paris.

The only problem when visiting this beautiful, sublime region – you may be tempted never to leave!

Katie Disken grew up in Dublin, Ireland and now lives in southwest France where she writes short stories and poetry, and is a fan of the unique wines of Jurancon.

Take a slow tour through Basque country

What to see and do in Pau

The culture of the French Basque country

The last beret maker in France

The post The beauty of Béarn, southwest France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Pézenas in the Herault department, Occitanie is a lovely town to visit throughout the year, although it is more lively during the spring and especially summertime. The historic centre of the town of Pézenas in the south of France has an unexpected and charming artistic vibe. Once the political capital of the Languedoc region and an important trading town, Pézenas has known great periods of prosperity.

There is a big all day food and non-food market every Saturday. Also, the biennial Foire à la Brocante is worth a visit. It takes place every year on the first Sunday in May and the second Sunday in October.

There are several traditional artists and craftworkers in the town and you can follow in the footsteps of the famous French playwriter and actor Molière. Take a self-guided city tour and explore the town at your own pace.

Hôtel de Lacoste

It’s a joy strolling through beautiful Pézenas! And if you visit the Office de Tourism first, they offer you a guide (in English!) with a marked-out route along the town’s highlights. You can follow the long tour over about 2.5 hours or opt for the short version of about 1.5 hours. Starting just a few steps from the Tourist Information Office, follow the numbered arrows that indicate the route. The first monument on the tour is the Hôtel de Lacoste of the Montégut family on Rue François. Pop into the courtyard of this 16th-century hotel and marvel at its rib vaulted staircase.

Maison Consulaire

If you have time for lunch, there are several excellent restaurants on Rue François. Arriving at the Place Gambetta, don’t miss the Maison Consulaire. This classified 17^th century historic monument used to be a consular building and now functions as an art and crafts centre where 200 artists and craftworkers exhibit their work. It’s called La Maison des Métiers d’Art, and it’s definitely worth having a peek inside (it’s closed on Mondays and Sundays).

Maze of cobbled streets

Head next to the Hôtel de Peyrat, with its two corbelled turrets, which lead to the enclosure of the feudal castle. This castle, first mentioned in historical records in 990, was completely destroyed in 1632. Via the Rue du Château and Rue de la Foire you will go reach the city centre through a maze of little cobbled streets.

Facades

Through the Porte Faugères, one of the last remaining sections of the medieval town wall, you enter the Pézenas of the 17th and 18th centuries. From the Cours Jean Jaurès, with its many elegant facades, walk to the fountain on the Place de la République and back into town again. The last part of the walk is maybe a bit less interesting. Although… it will lead you to the Avenue Aristide Briand and Avenue Verdun where there are many antique and second-hand shops.

Tip: There is free parking at the Promenade du Pré Saint-Jean, although it is nearly impossible to find a spot during peak hours such as on a Saturday during the market. Otherwise, you can also try the paid parking lot Voltaire on Boulevard Voltaire, which is close to the Office de Tourism.

Office de Tourisme www.en.capdagde.com

By La Ramoneta, who lives between Montpellier and Perpignan. Find out more about the South of France on her blog www.laramoneta.com

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Narbonne in the Aude department, in Occitanie, southern France is a lively, medium-sized town. It’s also very sunny with around 3,000 hours of sunshine per year. That shouldn’t be your only reason to visit this lovely town though, as you can easily spend a day happily roaming the historic streets. Every street corner seems to reveal interesting remnants of its 2,500 years of history and everything is within walkable distance. And it’s just 15km from the Mediterranean sea.

Les Halles

If you visit Narbonne via the A9 highway, you’ll enter the town via the Quai Victor Hugo where there is free parking. Crossing the Pont de la Liberté gives you a postcard-view of Narbonne. From here, the Palais des Archevêques can be seen peeking above the plane trees and the colourful houses on the Pont des Marchands reflected in the Canal de la Robine. On the left of this canal is Narbonne’s famous covered market ‘Les Halles’. Since 1901, this Baltard-style cast-iron building has been a must-visit for foodies.

Palais des Archevêques

Walking toward the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville by following the Cours de la République will reveal the imposing Palais des Archevêques step by step. The Archbishop’s Palace forms, together with the cathedral, the medieval heart of Narbonne and now hosts the town hall and a museum.

You can visit the museum inside the Palais des Archevêques daily from June to September. During the other months it is closed on Tuesdays. Buying a ticket also gives you access to the 13th century Donjon Gilles Aycelin, the tower on the left if you are standing facing the palace. From the top you’ll have great views over the city.

Founded in 118 BC, Narbonne was the first Roman colony outside of Italy. An important vestige of this ancient civilisation is still visible in the middle of the square: La Via Domitia. This was the original Roman road which connected Italy’s Rome with Cadiz in Spain. It is also a great spot to enjoy an ice cream.

Saint-Just et Saint-Pasteur Cathedral

The Passage de l’Ancre, a most charming cobblestoned alley between the old and new palaces (Le Palais Vieux and Le Palais Neuf), brings you to the vaulted cloister of the Saint-Just et Saint-Pasteur Cathedral. This inner garden offers some welcoming shadow while admiring the many gargoyles.

Since the 4th century, several religious buildings have been built on this spot. However, it wasn’t until the 13th century that the construction of today’s cathedral began. This overambitious, medieval project was never completed though, which means it has no nave. This was mainly due to defensive reasons and misfortune, like lack of resources and the plague, which spread to Narbonne in the 14th century.

Jardin de l’Archevêché

You can visit the vaulted cloister and admire the cathedral from the inside most days

Tip: It’s worth walking around the cathedral (via the Rue Droite and Rue Armand Gauthier). Here, you will find a small, but serene garden along the Rue Gustave Fabre, called Le Jardin de l’Archevêché. And if you go up to the terrace of the garden, you will find a hidden selfie spot, right on the giant public bench. This ‘Banc Public’ was created by Lilian Bourgeat for the In Situ 2014 festival.

Tip: When it comes to parking, if you’re lucky you may find a spot at the free parking lot just before arriving in Narbonne (on Quai Victor Hugo). If you don’t find a place here, you can drive further along Quai Victor Hugo for paid parking or try the Cours Mirabeau parking lot (paid as well).

Office de Tourisme www.narbonne-tourisme.com

By La Ramoneta, who lives between Montpellier and Perpignan. Find out more about the South of France on her blog www.laramoneta.com

The post The best things to do on a day trip to Narbonne appeared first on The Good Life France.

Béziers, in Herault, Occitanie in the far south of France is a bit of a hidden gem. Whether you love strolling through picturesque little streets, having a glass of wine at on the terrace of a charming café or indulging your curiosity for French history – it’s all here.

Here’s a guide to Beziers, one of the oldest cities in France.

Place Jean Jaurès

A good starting point for a walk around Béziers is La Place Jean Jaurès which had a complete makeover in 2018. This big square is a beautiful and spacious place that’s really popular with the locals. It’s also the meeting point for kids to cool down and play in the fountain, which consists of 50 little spurts of water that pop up unexpectedly to increase the fun. When the summer nights fall, it gets even cooler with colourful lights and a music fountain show. All this under the watchful eye of Pierre-Paul Riquet’s statue.

Les Allées Paul Riquet

La Place Jean Jaurès leads to Les Allées Paul Riquet. Born in Béziers, he was the creator of the 240 kilometres long waterway of the Canal du Midi that connects the Mediterranean Sea with Toulouse. At the other end you’ll find Béziers’ Municipal Theatre. If you walk to the back of the theatre, you can spot one of the city’s amazing trompe-l’oeils.

Place de la Madeleine

On to La Place de la Madeleine. This square was named after the Romanesque Madeleine Church, mentioned for the first time in 1092. It’s hard to believe that this peaceful and picturesque square was once the scene of the bloodiest episode in Bézier’s history. In 1209, crusaders of the Albigensian crusade brutally massacred thousands and thousands of inhabitants of the town. Men, women and children had come to the church to seek refuge, but instead of being protected, they were burned to death. The scars of this awful event are still visible to this day.

Les Halles

Another place in Béziers that has had a makeover is Les Halles. This covered market still has its original cast-iron building in Baltard style and dates from 1891. Open daily except Monday, from 07h00 to 13h30, this is a fantastic place to find loads of local produce. It isn’t as big as Les Halles in Narbonne, but you can still find an excellent selection of seafood, cheeses, meat and vegetables. There are several restaurants in and around Les Halles, so it also makes a great stop for lunch.

Saint-Nazaire Cathedral

One of Béziers’ landmarks is the Saint-Nazaire Cathedral. As Béziers sits on a rocky spur, you can already see the cathedral from afar. Like so many other monuments, the Saint-Nazaire Cathedral has known rough times as well. Dating from the 10th century, it was heavily damaged during the 12th-century crusade.

Our little city guide of Béziers ends here, at the terrace in front of the cathedral, gazing over the great Orb plain as far as the Haut-Languedoc Regional National Park.

Béziers is a great place to visit year-round. Although not as touristy as more popular South of France towns, like Carcassonne and Pézenas for example, the best time to visit temperature-wise is in spring or Autumn.

Tip: Two of the best parking spots are the paid parking lot on Place Jean Jaurès and the one on Place de la Madeleine, also called ‘Parking Les Halles 1’. Both parking lots are in the middle of the city centre and a perfect starting point for your stroll through Béziers.

Tourist Office: www.beziers-mediterranee.com

By La Ramoneta, who lives between Montpellier and Perpignan. Find out more about the South of France on her blog www.laramoneta.com

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When you drive through the remote, southwestern French countryside of the Gers, AKA Gascony, down narrow plane tree-lined allées and past villages shrouded in mystery, you get the sense that the area looks much as it did during the time of d’Artagnan, one of its most renowned heroes. It might surprise you to discover that he was not just a fictionalized character from the Alexandre Dumas novels. He was a real person and his real name was Charles Ogier de Batz-Castelmore d’Artagnan. Known to be a valiant soldier, D’Artagnan rose to the rank of captain-lieutenant in the prestigious French Musketeers. He was second in command to the “Sun King” himself, Louis XIV, who was by title, captain of the Musketeers.

Who was D’Artagnan?

D’Artagnan was born in 1611, son of Bertrand de Batz and Françoise de Montesquiou d’Artagnan. In his twenties d’Artagnan traveled to Paris and became one of the Musketeers of the Guard, a military branch of the Maison du Roi (the King’s Household). He lived a life of daring and espionage, reporting to Cardinal Mazarin and with a key role in the imprisonment of French finance minister Nicolas Fouquet of Vaux-le-Vicomte. In 1655 d’Artagnan became captain of the Musketeers and in 1667 he was assigned the role of governor of Lille. Longing to return to the exciting life he once knew, King Louis XIV returned him to the field of battle during the Franco-Dutch War, where d’Artagnan was killed in 1673 at the siege of Maastricht.

What to see in the land of D’Artagnan

Pays d’Artagnan holds interesting sites for history fans and a driving tour includes some must-see stops. Starting from the sunny city of Toulouse, drive along its périphérique to the N-124 road and head west towards Auch, the unofficial capital of the Gers. Here was the home the home of one of France’s favorite sons. As you leave the buzz of Toulouse behind, admire the white clouds that float on deep blue skies. Sigh at the velvet green rolling fields stretch to the horizon as like a breath of fresh air—you have entered Le Gers. It’s nickamed the Tuscany of France, la France profonde. It’s a place where most French people dream of retiring to. This department in the Midi-Pyrénées region is the most rural and least industrialized in France, isolated from main highways and train lines. The Gersois have the longest life spans in all of France.

Auch

Stop in Auch,  to view a bronze statue of d’Artagnan. From Toulouse, you’ll reach Auch in less than a 45-minute drive. It is a pleasant city perched above the Gers River. It has no market economy to speak of except farming and government. And it has the same population mix as it did in the 14th century. Cathédral Ste. Marie d’Auch at Place de la République was the last to be built in France. Its 18 Renaissance-era stained glass windows by Toulousain artist Arnaud de Molès rival the most beautiful in the world. You’ll find the bronze statue of d’Artagnan located at the base of the cathedral’s monumental 370-step stairway.

Leaving Auch, especially in July and August, vast fields of sunflowers stretch to the horizon. Carry on along the N-124 to the west. You’ll pass through the pretty village of Vic-Fezensac. Here a festival is held each July and full-blown Tempo Latino Latin music fills the village with rhythmic red-hot salsa. Fall under its spell and enjoy the legendary wild dancing in the streets to all hours of the morning.

Lupiac, birthplace of D’Artagnan

As you exit Vic-Fezensac take the D-37 south toward the village of Lupiac to visit the Musée d’Artagnan, dedicated to d’Artagnan’s life and legend. The museum is located in the Chapelle Saint Jacques, built by d’Artagnan’s uncle. On warm days, head to Lac de Lupiac, a large leisure lake with a fine sandy beach good for swimming, fishing, canoeing, and kayaking. There’s also a bar serving drinks, food and entertainment throughout the summer.

A little further south is d’Artagnan’s birthplace, the Chateau de Castelmore (now privately owned). From here, continue to Aignan, one of the loveliest villages in the Gers and the original seat of the Counts of Armagnac. Aignan was sacked and burned by the Black Prince, the eldest son of King Edward III of England, in 1355. Fortunately the 12th century church and arcaded square were spared and remain to this day. Aignan holds two vide-greniers (flea markets) during the summer—one of the best kept secrets of the area. Browse the stalls for silver and lace or relax at an outside café over a cup of delicious organic coffee and a freshly baked croissant.

Armagnac

Le Gers is the home of Armagnac—a distinctive type of brandy or eau de vie. It’s handmade from a blending of the region’s Armagnac grapes in local distilleries. Throw caution to the wind and stop for a tasting of the elixir of the gods. In the past it was claimed that it’s qualities included curing many ills and warding off snakes! Armagnac is the oldest eau-de-vie distilled from grapes in the world. Rumor has it that one of the local producers stores his Armagnac in four great oak barrels named Athos, Porthos, Aramis and d’Artagnan. If you’re lucky enough to find this particular distillery raise a glass to the famed d’Artagnan, “One for all and all for one!”

A votre santé.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures, which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn and beyond…

More on the Gers area

Discover Gorgeous Gers

Road Trip Gers

The officially prettiest villages in the Gers

What to see and do in Auch

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