La Couvertoirade may be one of the prettiest places in France that you never heard of. Deep in the heart of the Aveyron department, southeast France, the little village of La Couvertoirade provides a glimpse into a long-gone past. It is one of the best preserved Templar Knights villages in France. And it’s a classified plus beaux village – officially one of the prettiest villages in France…

La Couvertoirade

La Couvertoirade is located in territory known as the Causses and Cevennes. This UNESCO classified World Heritage site is listed for its ‘agro-pastoral cultural landscape of the Mediterranean’. It’s a rather dry description of a stunningly beautiful area of France. You’ll discover exquisite countryside where villages in the valleys look as though they have been hung on the sides of the hills like baubles on a Christmas tree. The area touches on four departments: Aveyron and Lozère in the Midi-Pyrénées region, and Gard and Herault in Languedoc-Roussillon.

La Couvertoirade looks out over the Larzac plateau, a land of fertile valleys and villages which seem to grow out of the rocks. In the 12^th century, this area was considered the private fiefdom of the crusading Knights Templar and later the Knights Hospitaller. And in La Couvertoirade you’ll find the only castle built by the Knights Templar in France.

What to see in La Couvertoirade

There’s plenty to see and fall in love with as you wander the narrow cobbled alleyways lined with ancient houses. The atmospheric 14^th century church of Saint Christophe is reached by steps cut into the rock. The 14^th century Windmill of Le Rédounel is the only restored windmill in Aveyron. From its hilly position you have fabulous views over the village. The wonderfully preserved Templar castle was built at the end of the 12^th century and last updated in the 15^th century. It sits atop a rocky spur, dominating the town with its imposing high walls.

“It’s so extraordinary that when you walk around the medieval ramparts, you know that these walls are original. It’s easy to imagine that the Knights Templar and generations of people since who have walked here. Like us they have stood and gazed out at the astonishing views” says Julia Girard-Gervois of TripUSAFrance. “It never ceases to amaze me just how absolutely gorgeous this village is. Lovely cobbled streets, beautiful grey stone houses and flowers and vines everywhere. It’s been likened to a miniature Carcassonne and it really is incredibly pretty.”

Authentic and fantastic

Just an hour’s drive from the city of Montpellier and close to the beautiful village of Saint-Guilhelm-le-Desert, La Couvertoirade has an epic history. “This is no museum town though” says Julia. “It’s brimming with history and vibrant with artisans, potters, wool spinners and more. It’s not hard to imagine it how it was in the days of the Templars. There’s even a communal bread oven at the windmill which has been restored and once a week you can taste bread and other local specialities.”

This little village certainly lives up to its Plus Beaux Village award…

3 Must-sees in Aveyron

Aveyron is a land that echoes with the past. Every densely wooded gorge and valley, every ancient bastide town and every winding road seems to whisper of the footsteps of pilgrims making their way south. Of Romans and rebellious Gauls. And of Knights Templars, thundering across the plateaux. It’s a place where you’ll find picture-postcard-pretty medieval villages, historic towns, rolling valleys and vast canyons where rivers roam and forests reach to the sky. Here you’ll find authentic markets, ancient churches clinging to rocky cliffs and divine cathedrals with soaring towers. There are ancient castles and museums galore. It’s a land that’s rich in natural beauty, as well as cultural and spiritual. We picked just 3 of the many must-sees in Aveyron:

Conques

This is a village with an inescapably spiritual feel. It is a towering masterclass in Romanesque engineering and architecture (the Abbey of St. Foy) and the very tangible memory of the weary feet of pilgrims, shuffling along the well-worn streets. The village has a genuine sense of hushed reverence with its medieval walls, slate roof tops, forgotten gates, time worn 11^th century fountains, narrow, cobbled streets. The views will leave you in stunned and silent awe and contemplation. Read more about Conques

Belcastel

The village is well deserving of its “plus beaux villages de France” status because, yet again, here is a place in the Aveyron that is shockingly beautiful, with the gentle tumble of water from the River Aveyron in the background and its steep, cobbled streets leading up to the castle. If you’ve got the time, have lunch at the Vieux Pont (a Michelin star restaurant in the village. Then walk off your indulgences with the climb (and it really is a climb) up to the castle.

Rodez

Certified as a “grand site Midi Pyrénées and “pays d’art et d’histoire”  Rodez is a city which, like so many in France really seems to enjoy mixing the old and the new whether that’s in terms of art, architecture, gastronomy or culture. A small city which clings to the last of the mountains of the Massif Central and dozes quietly 600 metres above sea level. It was originally two cities and is ever so slightly disjointed, with two city squares and a heady combination of gothic and renaissance architecture, hand in hand with the ultra-modern Musée Soulages. Read more about Belcastel and Rodez

The post What to see and do in La Couvertoirade, Aveyron appeared first on The Good Life France.

Gascony was England’s first colony, its influence reflected in the historically rich fortified villages, ancient cathedrals, grand chateaux and beautiful gardens which dot the region. Today, old Gascony, the land of swashbuckling Musketeers and dapper Counts, virtually coincides with the Gers, department 32, one of the original 83 departments created during the French Revolution.

The Gers is far enough off the beaten path to retain its identity, yet established enough to cater to travellers. Located south of the main autoroute linking Bordeaux to Toulouse, the Gers offers an intimate portrait of French rural life without the distraction of crowds. The landscape is characterized by green river valleys, bucolic farmland, and undulating hills of vineyards and sunflowers that stretch to the horizon. The only pauses in the department’s tranquillity are the many summer festivals and year-round farmers’ markets.

History

Roman Ruins

The Via Aquitania, one of the important Roman highways that traversed France from Bordeaux to Narbonne, had a station at Eauze. Originally the capital of a Celtic tribe called the Elusatii, it became a significant village after Julius Caesar’s conquest of Gaul. There are three exceptional examples of Gallo-Roman architecture in and around this village. The Musée du Trésor displaying some 28,000 coins, and 50 magnificent pieces of jewellery from the 3rd century. The Domus de Cieutat, an archeological excavation at the residence of an aristocrat during the 3rd century. And the Villa de Séviac, an  excavation below the village of Montréal-du-Gers displays large parts of a Gallo-Roman villa with stunning mosaic floors, and remains of a thermal spa complex. www.elusa.fr

Medieval Villages

Between 1256 and 1325 over 300 bastides (fortified villages) were built in fifteen departments in southwest France. The Gers has over a dozen beautiful examples. Laid out according to a geometric plan, a central square was always included. Often there was a covered market hall and arcaded shops. These villages were organized around three essential elements of peasant life: the cemetery, church and the castle. Each village has retained its own architectural identity, from the round, fortified village of Fourcès, to the arcaded villages of Tillac and St. Clar.

Gastronomy

The Gers is authentically farm to table. It’s a culinary heartland comprising a cornucopia of free-range poultry, goose and duck foie gras, confit, paté, pink and white garlic, earthy mushrooms, tender asparagus, ripe tomatoes, sweet plums, and succulent melons. The Gersois believe good food, carefully prepared, is not a luxury, but a common daily priority. In a department  where food is profoundly revered, it’s easy to find a delicious meal every day of the week, though usually between noon and two. Mealtimes are charmingly sacrosanct.

Wine

The Gers has been home to viticulture for almost 2,000 years. No longer lost in the shadow of Bordeaux, it is fast becoming a hot spot, producing some of the finest white, red, and rosé craft wines in France. Small, independent domaines such as Pellehaut, Chirolet, and Uby, as well as the larger domaines of Côtes de Gascogne, Tariquet, St. Mont, and the very distinctive Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh, and Madiran AOCs are now producing award winning appellations. Madiran, the most tannic wine in France, is particularly unique due to its high levels of resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant.

Armagnac

France’s oldest brandy has been produced in the Gers since the 14th century. The first evidence of its use dates back to the year 1310/ Then Maître Vital Dufour, prior of Eauze and Saint Mont, extolled the 40 virtues of Aygue Ardente. Its grapes are grown in three distinct areas: Haut-Armagnac, Ténarèze and Bas-Armagnac. Each domaine has its own unique recipe in contrast to its industrialized, twice distilled cousin, Cognac.

Armagnac is distilled once. No additives are permitted at any stage from grape to bottle. It is the most natural, and elegant brandy in France. The spectrum of producers range from the Domaine de Laberdolive touted by Michelin-starred restaurants, to Domaine de Saoubis, one of the few Armagnac producers that is completely organic and biodynamic.

Floc de Gascogne

This seductive aperitif, which means “bouquet of flowers” in Occitan was officially launched as Floc de Gascogne in 1954. It is a fruity, red or white liqueur composed of two-thirds grape juice and one-third young Armagnac. Once the grapes have been harvested and pressed, the unfermented grape juice is added to Armagnac distilled the previous year on the same property. Eighty percent of Floc de Gascogne AOC is produced in the Gers.

Nature

The Gers department, considered the heart of Gascony, is characterized by its tranquil landscape and agreeable microclimate. The hills are topped with medieval villages. The valleys are criss-crossed by rivers and streams. Wooded copses, folded into the landscape, often conceal a multitude of birds and wildlife. Rows of golden-yellow sunflowers stretch to the horizon in July.

With few towns or villages to interrupt a leisurely walk or ride, the countryside is Elysian. There are also a several cultivated gardens worth seeing. The Jardins de Coursiana botanical garden and arboretum covers 6 hectares, located in the lovely village of La Romieu. Palmerie de Sarthou in Bétous, is an 8-hectare oasis of botanical splendor. It has a conservatory orchard, children’s treasure hunt, Gascon farm, nursery, and integrated trails. www.jardinsdecoursiana.com; www.palmeraiesarthou.com

Farmers’ Markets

Almost every village in the Gers has a weekly farmers’ market, some of which have been ongoing for 700 years. Market days are typically held under a medieval covered marketplace or the shade of entwined plane trees. One can buy everything from farm fresh produce, delectable cheeses, and roasted chickens, to flowers, table clothes, shoes, and crockery by the kilo. There is literally something for everybody. Most market days begin at 8 and finish by noon. In some villages you can still hear the lunch siren sound, an old custom designed to call together farm workers out in the fields. During the summer months there are also night markets, a convivial social occasion for locals and tourists alike. The town of Samatan (photo above) is where you’ll find one of the biggest and best markets.

Festivals

Every village in the Gers has a festival whether it’s a gathering in the village foyer or an outright street party. There is no doubt that the Gerois love a good party. The 13th century village of Marciac hosts one of the biggest jazz festivals in Europe. Les Territoires du Jazz, takes place each August, a fortnight dedicated to jazz. The village on Vic-Fezensac hosts Tempo Latino at the end of July.

The village of Condom hosts Bandas every second weekend of May  with 35 bands and 2000 musicians (brass and percussion), accompanied by street dancing. In arenas throughout the summer the Course Landaise is welcomed. It is one of the 4 traditional forms of bullfighting, but there is no killing of the bull, it’s a purely acrobatic showcase.

Abbeys

There are some beautiful examples of religious architecture in the Gers. One of these, is the austere, yet elegant, Abbaye de Flaran, nestled below the hilltop village of Valence-sur-Baïse. The abbey was founded by the Cistercians in 1151. The complex, includes a medicinal garden and a small museum dedicated to Saint Jacques-de-Compostelle. In the former monks’ dormitory there is a display of  artworks by Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse, Picasso, Monet, Braque, from the “Simonow” collection. There are also temporary exhibitions of ancient or contemporary art, classical music concerts and many other activities throughout the year. www.tourisme-condom.com

Churches

Churches in the Gers were often built in the southern Gothic style, which emerged in France in 1140, and was dominant until the mid-16th century. They share three major characteristics: ribbed vaults, flying buttresses and strained glass with at least one rose window. Although most of these churches are technically called cathedrals, they are essentially basic houses of worship because they are no longer run by bishops. Most churches in the department were either damaged or destroyed during the Wars of Religion and the French Revolution. The smaller, picturesque churches that dot the countryside are always closed, but sometimes you can ask for a key at the mayor’s office. Cathedrals and small churches were an integral part of village life in the countryside.

Castles

There are more than 95 castles including towers, dungeons, and dovecotes (pigeonniers) in the Gers. Many chateaux are little more than ruins, while others are private homes. Some of them are open to the public, and are definitely worth a tour.

Chateau de Terraube  is a typically Gascon castle built around 1272 for the de Galard family, Merovingian dukes of Gascony. There is a date over the doorway confirms this. The de Galards have owned the castle ever since. It was enlarged in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. Stone decorations include animals, people, gargoyles and coats of arms, including those of the Galards, on a chimney.

The chateau has been listed as a historic monument since 1947. It is open to the public during cultural events. There is an antique fair held on the chateau grounds in September. It’s a good place to look for silverware, jewellery, furniture, carpets, books, linen, paintings, and porcelain.

Chateau de Cassaigne  is comprised of two castles, each privately owned. The buildings date from the 13th, 15th and 18th centuries. Worth noting are the façades and roofs, including those of the common buildings, the moat and bridge, the 18th century dining room and its chimney and the ground floor kitchen in the north wing. The Château de Cassaigne has been listed as a historic monument since 1987. www.chateaudecassaigne.com

Chateau de Lavardens is a massive structure that dates from 1620 onwards. It was built based around an earlier castle from the 13th century, which was dismantled in 1496 by Charles VIII following a siege. It is open to the public and holds art exhibits and cultural activities year round.

National Treasure

D’Artagnan was not just a fictionalized character from Alexandre Dumas the elder’s novels! He was a real person by the name of Charles Ogier de Batz-Castelmore D’Artagnan. A valiant soldier, he became Captain of the Musketeers, and was answerable only to the Sun King, himself, Louis XIV.

D’Artagnan was born in the ancient village of Lupiac in 1611, son of Bertrand de Batz and Françoise de Montesquiou d’Artagnan. In the 1630’s he travelled to Paris and became one of the Musketeers, living a life of daring and espionage. In 1655 he became Captain of the Musketeers and in 1667 he was promoted to governor of Lille. Longing to return to the exciting life he once knew, Louis IV ordered him to the field of battle during the Franco-Dutch war. He died there, at the siege of Maastricht in 1673.

In the center of Lupiac you’ll find the Musée D’Artagnan housed in the Chapelle Notre Dame. If the weather is warm you might want to take very short drive to Lac de Lupiac. It’s a beautifully kept 32 acre swimming, fishing, canoeing, and kayaking lake with a Gidget Goes Hawaiian Bar serving drinks, food and entertainment all summer long. www.lupiac.fr

Find more info at: www.guide-du-gers.com/en

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures, which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures in the Gers/Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn and beyond…

More on the Gers area

Discover Gorgeous Gers

Road Trip Gers

The officially prettiest villages in the Gers

What to see and do in Auch

The post 10 Reasons to Love the Gers appeared first on The Good Life France.

In the regional natural park of Auvergne there are 80 volcanoes spread over an area 32km long and 4km wide. They are a sort of living open air museum, the fires that once raged in them, long burned out. Over time, nature has covered them in wild flower pastures, shrubs, forests and brilliant greenery and they now form a unique and distinctive plateau of peaks and slopes, cones and craters. Known as the Chaine des Puys, the area is a UNESCO listed world heritage site.

It’s an area which is ideal for walking and hiking, with routes to suit all levels.

Puy de Dôme

The Puy de Dôme is nicknamed the Giant of the Domes. Appearing to burst through the land, it’s the highest volcano in the Puys chain and is the symbol of Auvergne. The Romans chose it’s summit as the ideal place to build a temple to Mercury. You can’t help but pity the workforce who had to drag the materials 4,850 feet up those slopes. You can still see the remains of the temple at the top.

If you’re fit enough, a walk provides fabulous views. Or hop on the electric cog train that winds up to the top in a rather more civilised 15 minutes. From here, you’ll have a birds eye view over the regional natural park and the Auvergne volcanoes with the chain of Puys, the Dore mountains and the mountains of Cantal. On a fine day you can see as far as the city of Clermont-Ferrand, and beyond, the mountains of Forez. Puy is a geological term used locally in the Auvergne meaning volcanic hill.

Puy Mary

A classified “Grand Site de France”, Puy Mary is one of the most visited sites in Auvergne. And it’s a classified Grand National Site of France. Located in the south of the volcanic natural park, this iconic pyramid rises 1,787 metres above sea level and was formed some 6.5 million years ago. There are superb views  from the top which look over the mountains of Cantal, the dome of Puy Griou and the Plomb du Cantal. It’s not an easy walk to the peak but there are plenty of places to stop en route and get your breath back.

Puy de Sancy

At 1,885 metres, Puy de Sancy is the highest point of the Massif Central. It’s also the tallest volcano in metropolitan France. The alpine crest, steep slopes and jagged ridges contrast with the other peaks of the Massif Central. Take an exhilrating cable car ride almost to the top. It carries you more than 450 metres in four minutes! Then continue the 20 minute climb to the apex on foot, via a wooden staircase.

Puy du Pariou

You might recognise this rather small 8,000-year-old volcano. With its characteristic silhouette, It’s the star of Volvic water commercials. Reaching 1,290 metres above sea level, this volcano has two hiking trails (around 2 hours there and back) to the top where you have fabulous views over Clermont-Ferrand. You can even descend into its centre to explore the bottom of the crater (allow about an hour to walk down and back).

Puys de la Vache and de Lassolas

Twin volcanoes, born from the same eruption share key characteristics: their stony slopes indicate that their craters are not closed. The red earth of these volcanoes is Mars-like and they are great for a hike. A tour of Puy de la Vache takes about 1h30 (3 km), and Puy de Lassolas takes about 2h30 (5 km).

Puy de Lemptégy

Born 30,000 years ago, the Puy de Lemptégy was mined for its volcanic slag leaving it open in an unusual and striking way. The colours and layers of strata can be clearly seen which has made it a popular visit. It is like an amphitheater of volcanic history. You can enter the volcano on foot or take the 2.5 hour little train guided tour, an immersive experience which includes a simulator ride.

More on the Auvergne

Guide to a weekend in the Auvergne

Searching for a long lost cheese of the Auvergne

Discovering the Auvergne

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Between the Pyrenees and the Atlantic ocean lies Béarn, a historical region. It’s in the department of the Pyrénées-Atlantiques in the furthest corner of southwest France. The region is often a surprise to visitors with glorious countryside, historic towns and a rich culture. This is a lush land of rolling emerald-green hills on which honey coloured cattle called La Blonde d’Aquitaine graze. From the top of the hills which dot the land, you’ll find spectacular views of the mountain chain of the Pyrénées. The region is blessed with a mild, temperate climate. A healthy rainfall supports a thriving agricultural industry while the farmers take intense care and pride in maintaining the countryside.

Pau, capital of Bearn

Pau is the capital of Béarn. It can trace its roots to the settlement of the Romans at the beginning of the first century. It is the birthplace of one of France’s most famous kings, Henry IV (1553-1610), father of Louis XIII (1601-1643).

The Pyrénées mountains dominate the views from Pau with the Pic du Midi the tallest at 2877m. It stands out with its jagged edges like a chipped tooth. The region offers a wide choice of activities ranging from skiing in the winter to summer hiking and mountain biking. The area often plays host to the gruelling climbs of the Tour de France.

For motor racing enthusiasts the Grand Prix takes place annually in the streets of Pau. It is the oldest town race in France and offers a challenging circuit that has been driven by top Formula one drivers including Lewis Hamilton.

The river Le Gave de Pau which runs down from the mountains towards the mouth of the Atlantic, is great for canoeing and rafting.

The Way of St James, Camino de Santiago pilgrim route runs through Béarn and a very small part of it goes through the national forest of Pau, the Forêt de Bastard. The most important village for the Pilgrim Route is the medieval town of Lescar, former capital of Béarn. It’s a 10-minute drive from Pau. Here you will find a charming Romanesque Cathedral and shelter for pilgrims.

Wine and castles

South of Pau is the wine-growing region of Jurançon. Here dry and sweet white wines are produced, cultivated from the Manseng grape. There is a local legend that the baby Prince Henry of Navarre (later Henry IV) was fed a tablespoon of this wine to give him the best start in life and the strength to one day rule!

The Chateau du Pau, built in 1370, evolved from a fortress to become the residence of the rulers of Navarre. The façade is decorated with the monograms of Henry IV and his wife Marguerite of Valois. Famous guests include Napoleon Bonaparte and Marie Antoinette who is said to have helped to cultivate the chateau’s gardens during her summer stays. The castle is open to the public and has a large collection of tapestries and furnishings including a memorable table that can seat 100 guests. There is also a famous turtle shell brought from the Americas. It is said to have served as a cradle for the baby Prince Henry.

Around Pau

Pau is surrounded by beautiful villages and small towns between the rolling countryside and the Pyrenees. Orthez for instance, with its medieval Pont Vieux bridge keep over the Gave de Pau. The battle of Orthez (1814), was fought here during the Peninsular War resulting in a victory for the Duke of Wellington. It is marked by the Monument du General Foy on the outskirts of the town.

Salies–de-Béarn is also worth a visit. This Spa town is noted for its discovery of famous salt crystals in the nearby marshes and has a museum dedicated to the tradition of salt making. Close by is Sauveterre-de-Béarn, a very pretty fortified medieval town.

Navarrenx is a very well preserved fortified town with a magnificently intact wall. It was the first bastioned city in France. Today it’s a a listed Plus Beaux Village de France (prettiest villages of France). The Three Musketeers, Athos, Porthos and Aramis (who was named after his small town in Béarn), all came from  Béarn and spent time in Navarrenx. From here it is easy to head towards the Pyrenees via Oloron-Saint-Marie where you can visit the UNESCO listed Cathedral Saint-Marie with its Romanesque doorway. And don’t miss the historic and elevated Quartier Saint-Croix which sits on the original Roman settlement. The town is also home to the last beret maker left in France.

Mountains and grottoes

The beauty of this region is enhanced by the Ossau Valley, carpeted in every shade of green. From here you can wind your way towards the resort town of d’Artouse and ogle the Pic du Midi on its doorstep. A cable car will bring you to the top of the mountain. And, from there, hop on a train to meander through breath-taking scenery before ending your journey at the lake d’Artouste. The ride takes about 50 minutes. Or, you can hike it which takes around three hours.

Last but by no means least on the list of places to visit is the Grottes de Betharram. It is a pristine example of what lays beneath the stunning countryside. Discovered in 1810, it was formed by tiny droplets of water over tens and thousands of years. The constant dripping forms stalagmites, creating astounding illusions of grand halls, human like figures and ceilings draped by nature’s graphic designs. It’s a good idea to bring a jumper because it’s nippy down there!

The region is around an hour from the Atlantic Ocean and borders Spain. Two motorways run through the region, the A64 and the A65 and there is an international airport in Pau. The French regional train service and TGV stops at Orthez and Pau connecting Béarn with Toulouse, Bordeaux and Paris.

The only problem when visiting this beautiful, sublime region – you may be tempted never to leave!

Katie Disken grew up in Dublin, Ireland and now lives in southwest France where she writes short stories and poetry, and is a fan of the unique wines of Jurancon.

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The last beret maker in France

The post The beauty of Béarn, southwest France appeared first on The Good Life France.

When you drive through the remote, southwestern French countryside of the Gers, AKA Gascony, down narrow plane tree-lined allées and past villages shrouded in mystery, you get the sense that the area looks much as it did during the time of d’Artagnan, one of its most renowned heroes. It might surprise you to discover that he was not just a fictionalized character from the Alexandre Dumas novels. He was a real person and his real name was Charles Ogier de Batz-Castelmore d’Artagnan. Known to be a valiant soldier, D’Artagnan rose to the rank of captain-lieutenant in the prestigious French Musketeers. He was second in command to the “Sun King” himself, Louis XIV, who was by title, captain of the Musketeers.

Who was D’Artagnan?

D’Artagnan was born in 1611, son of Bertrand de Batz and Françoise de Montesquiou d’Artagnan. In his twenties d’Artagnan traveled to Paris and became one of the Musketeers of the Guard, a military branch of the Maison du Roi (the King’s Household). He lived a life of daring and espionage, reporting to Cardinal Mazarin and with a key role in the imprisonment of French finance minister Nicolas Fouquet of Vaux-le-Vicomte. In 1655 d’Artagnan became captain of the Musketeers and in 1667 he was assigned the role of governor of Lille. Longing to return to the exciting life he once knew, King Louis XIV returned him to the field of battle during the Franco-Dutch War, where d’Artagnan was killed in 1673 at the siege of Maastricht.

What to see in the land of D’Artagnan

Pays d’Artagnan holds interesting sites for history fans and a driving tour includes some must-see stops. Starting from the sunny city of Toulouse, drive along its périphérique to the N-124 road and head west towards Auch, the unofficial capital of the Gers. Here was the home the home of one of France’s favorite sons. As you leave the buzz of Toulouse behind, admire the white clouds that float on deep blue skies. Sigh at the velvet green rolling fields stretch to the horizon as like a breath of fresh air—you have entered Le Gers. It’s nickamed the Tuscany of France, la France profonde. It’s a place where most French people dream of retiring to. This department in the Midi-Pyrénées region is the most rural and least industrialized in France, isolated from main highways and train lines. The Gersois have the longest life spans in all of France.

Auch

Stop in Auch,  to view a bronze statue of d’Artagnan. From Toulouse, you’ll reach Auch in less than a 45-minute drive. It is a pleasant city perched above the Gers River. It has no market economy to speak of except farming and government. And it has the same population mix as it did in the 14th century. Cathédral Ste. Marie d’Auch at Place de la République was the last to be built in France. Its 18 Renaissance-era stained glass windows by Toulousain artist Arnaud de Molès rival the most beautiful in the world. You’ll find the bronze statue of d’Artagnan located at the base of the cathedral’s monumental 370-step stairway.

Leaving Auch, especially in July and August, vast fields of sunflowers stretch to the horizon. Carry on along the N-124 to the west. You’ll pass through the pretty village of Vic-Fezensac. Here a festival is held each July and full-blown Tempo Latino Latin music fills the village with rhythmic red-hot salsa. Fall under its spell and enjoy the legendary wild dancing in the streets to all hours of the morning.

Lupiac, birthplace of D’Artagnan

As you exit Vic-Fezensac take the D-37 south toward the village of Lupiac to visit the Musée d’Artagnan, dedicated to d’Artagnan’s life and legend. The museum is located in the Chapelle Saint Jacques, built by d’Artagnan’s uncle. On warm days, head to Lac de Lupiac, a large leisure lake with a fine sandy beach good for swimming, fishing, canoeing, and kayaking. There’s also a bar serving drinks, food and entertainment throughout the summer.

A little further south is d’Artagnan’s birthplace, the Chateau de Castelmore (now privately owned). From here, continue to Aignan, one of the loveliest villages in the Gers and the original seat of the Counts of Armagnac. Aignan was sacked and burned by the Black Prince, the eldest son of King Edward III of England, in 1355. Fortunately the 12th century church and arcaded square were spared and remain to this day. Aignan holds two vide-greniers (flea markets) during the summer—one of the best kept secrets of the area. Browse the stalls for silver and lace or relax at an outside café over a cup of delicious organic coffee and a freshly baked croissant.

Armagnac

Le Gers is the home of Armagnac—a distinctive type of brandy or eau de vie. It’s handmade from a blending of the region’s Armagnac grapes in local distilleries. Throw caution to the wind and stop for a tasting of the elixir of the gods. In the past it was claimed that it’s qualities included curing many ills and warding off snakes! Armagnac is the oldest eau-de-vie distilled from grapes in the world. Rumor has it that one of the local producers stores his Armagnac in four great oak barrels named Athos, Porthos, Aramis and d’Artagnan. If you’re lucky enough to find this particular distillery raise a glass to the famed d’Artagnan, “One for all and all for one!”

A votre santé.

Sue Aran lives in the Gers department of southwest France where she runs French Country Adventures, which provides private, personally-guided, small-group food & wine adventures into Gascony, the Pays Basque, Tarn and beyond…

More on the Gers area

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Road Trip Gers

The officially prettiest villages in the Gers

What to see and do in Auch

The post The Gers , France | land of the Musketeer D’Artagnan appeared first on The Good Life France.

The Basque Country straddles northern Spain and southern France, near the Pyrénées. It is an unofficial land and has no official borders. In France it’s known as the Pays Basque.

The people of the Basque country have a unique culture, language and traditions. Although flavoured with the culture of their Spanish and French neighbours there are many differences and and Basques, euskaldunak in the Basque language, are fiercely proud of their heritage.

Euskara, Basque language

Called Euskara, the Basque language is one of the oldest living languages still spoken today. It’s estimated that around a million people speak Euskara. Whilst it’s an official language in Spain, it’s not recognised as such in France. But if you go to French Basque country, you will hear it commonly spoken, especially in small villages, in Bayonne, regarded as the capital of the French Basque country, and even in glitzy Biarritz.

The flag and the festivals

The Basques have a distinct and lively culture. Every village has an area for playing the national ball game pelota. It’s one of the oldest ball games still played and its origins can be traced back to the Romans. Players crack the ball against the walls of an enclosed court using a curved ‘glove’ at such a velocity it’s one of the fastest ball sports in the world with a speed of ball fling averaging 170 miles an hour!

The people have a love of festivals, traditional dress and folklore. You’ll spot the Basque flag flying – a red field, a white vertical cross and a green diagonal one) throughout the region, as well as another common Basque symbol, the lauburu (like a curly four-leaf clover), signifying prosperity, or life and death.

Did you know? There is a sizeable Basque community in the USA. Basques migrated to Canada and South America in the 16th to 18th centuries for marine-based work. From the mid 19th century, America lured many for work and a better life. There’s even a Basque museum in Boise, Idaho where there is a community of some 15,000 Basques who continue to revere the traditions and culture of their heritage.

Head to the Basque Museum in Bayonne to find out more about Basque culture.

The food of the Basque region

And, just as for their French neighbours, eating is a national pastime in the Basque culture. There are an abundance of Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s claimed more per kilometre than any other country. There are an incredible 1500 secret gourmet societies known as txokos scattered throughout the Pays Basque. Members cook elaborate meals for each other at least once a week.

This pickled in the past region is deliciously authentic…

More on the area

Discover the Basque country

Bayonne ham fair

How to make gateau Basque

Join a tour of the Basque country

The post Culture of the French Basque country appeared first on The Good Life France.

The Basque Country, Pays Basque, Euskal Herria, is located in the western Pyrénées mountains, straddling the border between France and Spain, meeting at the Atlantic Coast’s Bay of Biscay. Emerald landscapes, distinctly rugged mountains, precipitous shorelines and the rich heritage of the Basque, Euskaldunak, kept this area uniquely singular. Proudly independent, the Basque people, who are neither Spanish or French, have been living in this autonomous region since the earliest known modern man was discovered in France some 45,000 years ago.

Uncover the charms of slow travel in the Basque Country says Sue Aran of French Country Adventures. It’s a land where the day is long, and the culture is one of the oldest in the world.

St Jean de Luz

St. Jean de Luz is the most iconic fishing village in the Pays Basque. It has a working port where 10,000 tons of fish from over 100 varieties are caught each year, including tuna, sardine and anchovy. It was from this port that 15th century fishermen chased whales to the shores of Newfoundland. St. Jean de Luz has a lively old town center offering daily farmers’ markets, boutique shops selling  Basque linens, berets and espadrilles, restaurants and cafés.

Espelette

Espelette is a small, colorful village nestled at the foot of the Mondarrain mountain, renowned for its famous Espelette pepper, which arrived from Mexico by New World explorers during the 16th century. Since then this lightly spicy, red pepper has been rooted in the traditions of rural life. When autumn comes the facades of houses are adorned with strings of peppers.

La Bastide Clairence

La Bastide Clairence was founded by the King of Navarre in 1314 and settled by the Gascons. The village church is distinguished by a unique courtyard cemetery paved with tombstones. In the 17th century, Portuguese Jews fleeing from the Spanish Inquisition arrived in the village bringing with them the art of making chocolate.

Bayonne

Bayonne is situated at the confluence of the Nive and the Adour Rivers in the French Pays Basque. The historic district of Grand Bayonne is characterized by its narrow medieval streets. Don’t miss the Gothic Saint Marie cathedral and its 13th century cloister. The Petit Bayonne district, is dedicated to the arts, crafts and traditions of the region. There are more than 3,000 objects on view at the Musée Basque. Bayonne is considered France’s first capital of chocolate.

Sare

Sare is one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. It is a tiny village tucked below the sacred Rhune mountain. Le Petit Train de la Rhune climbs 2, 970 feet above the village. From here you’ll have a spectacular 360 degree, unobstructed view of the Pyrénées, the Atlantic Ocean and the surrounding Basque Country.

Basque Corniche

The Basque Corniche, at the edge of the village of Urrugne, is one of the last protected areas on the French Pays Basque coast. Just a short drive from St. Jean de Luz and the village of Hendaye near the Spanish border, its steep cliffs, caves and famous rocks, The Twins”, have seen millions of years of planetary history.

Biarritz

Biarritz was once a Phoenician fishing port used to send goods to Britain, and whaling port until Napoléon III and his wife, Éugenie, established their summer court there. During the Belle Epoque, thousands of people visited glittering Biarritz by the sea. In 1918 Picasso arrived, followed by Hemingway in the 20s. Frank Sinatra arrived in the 1950s with Rita Hayworth and Marilyn Monroe. Hollywood embraced Biarritz as one of its glittering incognito getaways.

Donostia

Donostia, as San Sebastian is called in Basque, is a vibrantly blended traditional and modern city. It’s just ten minutes from the French border. Its circular bay is rimmed with a picturesque promenade and pristine white beaches. The city hosts the San Sebastian Film Festival and some of the most spectacular monumental art in all of Spain. San Sebastian is also recognized as having some of the best food in all of Europe with 18 Michelin-starred restaurants. While Pinxtos, Basque tapas, takes center stage here, the Basque cheesecake, can’t be overlooked. It’s a savory, decadent creation with a slightly burnt crust, which you can easily recreate at home.

If you want to feel like a local, and you’re craving a more authentic experience, one that leaves you with a feeling that you truly got to know the places, people and cultures that you’ve encountered, then without a doubt, the Basque Country is for you.

As they say in Basque, Saran Astia, we have time…

Sue Aran runs a 10-day Basque Country tour which takes in the most exquisite scenery and fabulous cuisine in this seldom traveled, southwestern corner of France, see details:

The post Take a slow tour through the Basque Country appeared first on The Good Life France.

Of the 162 villages classified most beautiful in France, (Plus Beaux Villages de France) six are in the Lot department, southwest France. Magnificent castles, ancient stone houses, historical monuments, ancient wonders and gastronomic delights are among some of the many charms of this beautiful part of France.

Discover the prettiest villages in the Lot department:

Rocamadour

Though not officially on the Plus Beaux Villages list (it has too many inhabitants to be included), we couldn’t leave this stunning town off the list.

Rocamadour seemingly defies gravity, hanging 150m above the Alzou canyon. This sacred city appears to be suspended between heaven and earth and the first sight of it really is a wow moment. And when you enter the town, it just gets better. You’ll discover a heavenly hodgepodge of houses and chapels dominated by a castle. An important pilgrimage destination, a stone staircase leads to the Sanctuary at the top. In days of old, pilgrims mounted the 216 steps on their knees. The chapel of Notre-Dame de Rocamadour is home to a 12^th century statue known as the Black Virgin and carved from walnut wood, it has lured pilgrims for more than eight centuries. Rocamadour is also famous for its goats cheese which you can buy at the farm of Borie d’Imbert, ten minutes from Rocamadour. Read more about Rocamadour.

The officially prettiest villages in the Lot department

Loubressac

Loubressac is picturesque village famous for its dazzling views over the valleys of the Dordogne, Cère and Bave. Medieval houses are made from the characteristic ochre coloured stone and antique tiles of the region. The winding narrow streets with hilly staircases and flowering squares encourage you to wander and linger. French photographer Robert Doisneau said that Loubressac has “the most beautiful light in the world” – it’s easy to see what inspired him in this pickled-in-the-past village.  Read more about Loubressac

Autoire

Castles and mansions line the cobbled streets of Autoire and give it the nickname”Le Petit Versailles”.  The waterfall at the top of the town, which flows from the Causse de Gramat and into the river Autoire winding its way through the village, is well worth a visit. Take a detour to the Roque d’Autoire, also known as the Castle of the English. This semi-troglodyte fortress, built on a slight shelf, backed by the limestone cliff is only 2 metres wide. Read more about Autoire

Carennac

Carennac is a medieval village perched on a rocky terrace on the banks of the river Dordogne. Though occupied in the Gallo-Roman period, the town we see now was built around a priory founded in 1047. Visit the church of Saint Pierre with its 12th century Roman tympanum and 16th century Gothic tomb and day dream in the half-Romanesque/half-Gothic cloister. Stroll through the streets and admire Renaissance houses with mullioned windows. Read more about Carennac

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie was voted favourite village of the French in 2012. This village of magnificent monuments, Gothic and medieval houses, stone alleys and a castle carved into the rock is mesmerising.

Read more about Saint-Cirq-lapopie

Capdenac-le-Haut

Capdenac-le-Haut is close to the town of Figeac, a classified town of Art and History and is itself well worth a visit. Perched above the river Lot, Capdenac is famous for being the site of the last battle of Caesar in Gaul. The 100m high Gallo-Roman fortress keep is magnificent, the views are breath-taking. There’s a small museum and the cobbled streets are lined with pretty half timbered houses. You’ll feel as if you’ve stepped back in time here.

Cardaillac

Cardaillac is also close to Figeac. A medieval town of huge charm, complete with a 12th century fort and impressive towers. Take the time travel tour and discover how people lived in the past with a sort of living museum which is spread throughout the village.

More on the Lot department

Discover an exquisite Iris farm where the views are simply breath-taking

The charms of Cahors

The history of the Lot department

The post The prettiest villages in the Lot Department appeared first on The Good Life France.

The Basque Country straddles northern Spain and southern France, near the Pyrénées. It’s an unofficial land with no official borders and in France is known as the Pays Basque. Called Euskadi in Basque, it’s a land of emerald green landscapes, rugged mountains, and dramatic shorelines.

The Basques have a unique culture, language and traditions that are unlike those of their Spanish and French neighbors, and they are fiercely proud of their heritage. Called Euskara, the Basque language is one of the oldest living languages still spoken today. Whilst it’s an official language in Spain, it’s not recognised as such in France. But you will hear it commonly spoken, especially in small villages, as well as in Bayonne, regarded as the capital of the French Basque country, in the lovely coastal town of Anglet and even in glitzy Biarritz (three areas known conjointly as B-A-B).

Take a tour here and you’ll discover authentic France, a land of berets, gourmet food, and extraordinarily beautiful landscapes…

A Ten-day tour of authentic southern France

French Country Adventures ten-day tour takes in the very best of the Basque country. Amazing restaurants, fabulous food and wine, picturesque villages and glorious seaside towns, farmer markets and historic towns.

You’ll be based in charming St Jean de Luz. It’s an active fishing village at the mouth of the Nivelle River on the doorstep of the Atlantic coast. It’s the perfect place to watch the world go by from a colourful café at the port

Feast like Kings

Eating is a national pastime in the Basque culture. There are an abundance of Michelin-starred restaurants and an incredible 1500 secret gourmet societies known as txokos scattered throughout the Pays Basque. Visit markets and try the local alpine sheep cheeses. Indulge in the famous Gateau Basque – an irresistible combination of black cherries and pistachio flavored cream. The local seafood is second to none. Enjoy a chocolate tasting. And cross into Spain for authentic tapas. You’ll even dine at Alain Ducasse’s auberge, Ostape, the legendary chefs secret haven:

Explore beautiful Biarritz

You’ll visit stylish Biarritz, once a simple fishing village. But when the Empress Eugenie had husband Napoleon III build her a palace here in the 1850s and established a summer court on the beach, it was catapulted into legend. The rich and famous followed from Marilyn Monroe and Frank Sinatra to Gwyneth Paltrow. Now it’s a great place to stroll above the pounding sea. There are museums and a mix of eclectic mansions to visit. Shops and restaurants line the promenade above one of the best surfing beaches this side of Malibu. Enjoy a stunning view with lunch and luxuriate at a Thalassotherapy Spa which uses salt water to heal and pamper guests.

Discover picturesque villages

This unique tour will take you to the most beautiful and unspoiled villages in the Basque country including medieval Ainhoa. You’ll tour Biddaray which is on the pilgrims’ route of Saint Jacques de Compostelle. Hop on Le Petit Train de la Rhune to climb 2,970ft for a 360-degree view of the Pays Basque, the department of the Landes and The Atlantic Ocean. In Cambo-les-Bains you’ll visit Villa Arnega, the beautiful home and gardens, like a miniature Versailles, which belonged to the author of Cyrano de Bergerac, Edmund Rostand. Enjoy wine tasting and pintxos at Egiategia a unique winery in the Pays Basque. They produce spectacular sparkling wines by submerging 300 liter wine tanks behind the break wall that protects St. Jean de Luz.

Spanish rendezvous

A rendezvous with neighbouring Spain is on the itinerary. Donostia, as San Sebastian is called in Basque, will charm you with its circular bay rimmed with a picturesque promenade and pristine white beaches. Wander the Parte vieja, the old quarter of the city with its ornate churches, wonderful shops and pixtos (tapas) bars. Learn how to make mouth-watering tapas, the essential pintxo, followed by a gourmet lunch and wine tasting.

You’ll visit Bilbao to tour the extraordinary Guggenheim Museum of modern and contemporary art, designed by American architect Frank Gehry. Explore the old town with its winding narrow streets, the beautiful Catedral de Santiago de Bilbao, Archeological Museum, Plaza Nueva, and churches of San Nicolás and San Antón.

This small group tour includes transport, meals and a fabulous guide who will show you the very best of the Basque country. You’ll discover the rich heritage of the far south, an authentic and breath-takingly beautiful part of France where visitors are warmly welcomed and memories are made…

Find out more about the fabulous itinerary and book your place at: FrenchCountryAdventures

The post Unique, brilliant Tour of the Basque Country appeared first on The Good Life France.

Take a road trip in Gers, AKA Gascony. As you drive through the remote, southwestern French countryside, down narrow plane tree-lined allées past villages shrouded in mystery, you get the sense that the area looks much as it did during the time of d’Artagnan, one of its most renowned heroes. He was not just a fictionalized character from the Alexandre Dumas novels. He actually was a real person named Charles Ogier de Batz-Castelmore d’Artagnan. Known to be a valiant soldier, he rose to the rank of captain-lieutenant in the prestigious French Musketeers. He was second in command to the “Sun King” himself, Louis XIV, who was by title, captain of the Musketeers.

D’Artagnan, one of the real Musketeers

D’Artagnan was born in 1611, son of Bertrand de Batz and Françoise de Montesquiou d’Artagnan. In his twenties d’Artagnan traveled to Paris and became one of the Musketeers of the Guard, a military branch of the Maison du Roi. He lived a life of daring and espionage, reporting to Cardinal Mazarin and with a key role in the imprisonment of French finance minister Nicolas Fouquet of Vaux-le-Vicomte. In 1655 d’Artagnan became captain of the Musketeers and in 1667 he was assigned the role of governor of Lille. Longing to return to the exciting life he once knew, King Louis XIV returned him to the field of battle during the Franco-Dutch War. D’Artagnan was killed in 1673 at the siege of Maastricht.

Pays d’Artagnan holds interesting sites for history fans and a driving tour includes a few essential stops.

La France Profonde

Starting from Toulouse, drive along its périphérique to the N-124 heading west toward Auch. Now your adventure to find the home of one of France’s favorite sons has begun. White clouds float on deep blue skies. Velvet green rolling fields stretch to the horizon. And like a breath of fresh air, you have entered Le Gers, the Tuscany of France, la France profonde, a place where most French people dream to retire. This department in the Midi-Pyrénées region is the most rural and least industrialized in France. It’s isolated from main highways and train lines. The Gersois have the longest life spans in all of France.

Auch Cathedral

Stop in Auch, the unofficial capital of the Gers, to view a bronze statue of d’Artagnan. You’ll reach the city in less than a 45-minute drive. It is a pleasant, though not a terribly charming, city perched above the Gers River. It has no market economy to speak of except farming and government, with the same population mix since the 14th century. Cathédral Ste. Marie d’Auch at Place de la République was the last to be built in France. Its 18 Renaissance-era stained glass windows by Toulousain Arnaud de Molès rival the most beautiful in the world. You’ll find the bronze statue of d’Artagnan located at the base of the cathedral’s monumental 370-step stairway.

Sunflowers and pretty villages

Leaving Auch, especially in July and August, elysian fields of magnificent and enchanting sunflowers stretch to the horizon. Head farther west on the N-124 through the pretty village of Vic-Fezensac. Here each July the full-blown Tempo Latino Latin music festival fills the village with rhythmic red-hot salsa and legendary wild dancing in the streets to all hours of the morning.

As you exit Vic-Fezensac take D-37 south toward the Gers village of Lupiac to visit d’Artagnan’s birthplace. Stop off at the Musée d’Artagnan, dedicated to d’Artagnan’s life and legend. The museum is located in the Chapelle Saint Jacques, built by d’Artagnan’s uncle. In the warm weather take the short drive to Lac de Lupiac. You’ll find a large leisure lake with a fine sandy beach good for swimming, fishing, canoeing, and kayaking lake with a bar serving drinks, food and entertainment throughout the summer.

Enchanting castles

Another 10-minute drive south on the D-102 is d’Artagnan’s birthplace Chateau de Castelmore (now privately owned). Continue on D-174 then D-20 to Aignan, one of the loveliest villages in the Gers and the original seat of the Counts of Armagnac. Aignan was both sacked and burned by the Black Prince, the eldest son of King Edward III of England, in 1355, but its 12th century church and arcaded square still remain today. Aignan offers two vide-greniers (flea markets) during the summer—one of the best kept secrets of the area. Browse the stalls for silver and lace or relax at an outside café over a cup of delicious organic coffee and a freshly baked croissant. Your mouth will water at the memory.

Armagnac

Le Gers is also the home of Armagnac. It’s a distinctive type of brandy or eau de vie usually made from a blending of the region’s Armagnac grapes. Handmade and produced in local distilleries, throw caution to the wind and stop for a tasting of the elixir of the gods before heading back to Toulouse. Armagnac is the oldest eau-de-vie distilled from grapes in the world. Rumor has it that one of the local producers stores his Armagnac in four great oak barrels named Athos, Porthos, Aramis and d’Artagnan. If you’re lucky enough to find this particular distillery raise a glass to the famed d’Artagnan, “One for all and all for one!”

Practical information:

Museum d’Artagnan, Chapelle Saint Jacques, 32290 Lupiac, France. Admission: A small donation is suggested. Hours: Open daily July & August 10:30am-7pm; September-June open 2-6pm, closed Mondays.

What to see and do in the Gers

Gers Tourism: www.tourisme-gers.com

Sue Aran run French Country Adventures which specialises in unique and truly fabulous tours that take you to the heart of Gascony, the Pays Basque, the Tarn and beyond…

The post Road trip Gers – to the heart of Gascony appeared first on The Good Life France.