Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is best approached from the winding road of the Grand Chemin Val de Gellone. This approach gives you stupendous views of the town which sits atop a hill. When you leave, I recommend you go via the main street on the far side of the town. This long road is lined with boutiques, bistros and artisan workshops.

Officially one of the prettiest villages in France

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is a Plus Beaux Village de France (an official classification for the prettiest villages in France). In the centre, the main square is home to an imposing plane tree. At more than 150 years old, it’s said to be the biggest plane tree in France. All around it, tables and chairs sprawl out from the cafés that line the square. It’s the perfect place to sip chilled wine and nibble on olives as you listed to the cicadas sing.

On one edge of the square sits the Abbey of Gellone. It’s one of the oldest Romanesque churches in France and a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) pilgrim route.

The abbey was founded in 804 by Guilhem, Count of Toulouse. When he moved to this remote location, his cousin the great Emperor Charlemagne, gave him what was said to be a relic of the Holy Cross. This made the abbey an important stop for pilgrims. The well-preserved abbey has an air of serenity to it, and there is a small museum behind the cool cloisters.

A village of legends

Guilhem made the town famous by defeating a giant who took up residence in the ruins of the town’s castle, accompanied by a magpie. The terrified locals asked Guilhem to help rid them of the giant. Guilhem dressed as a maid and, hiding his sword, set out to trick the beast. But he was recognised by the magpie who flew off to warn his mate. Sure of his superiority, the giant ignored the magpie (of course). He fought with the ‘maid’ who (of course) won. And Guilhem threw his opponent off a cliff. The locals claim that though many wild birds live in the area – no-one has ever seen a magpie in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert since that day!

What to see in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert

Around the abbey a warren of narrow cobbled winding alleys spread up and down the hilly town. As you wander, you’ll pass the 12^th century Tour des Prisons. Along the streets, water trickles from ancient fountains. Some of them are decorated with scallop shells, the pilgrims emblem and picturesque ancient houses lean against each under their sun-baked tiled roofs.

Despite the name, you won’t see a desert, the name comes from the fact not many people that lived there centuries ago. Today it gets rather more crowded, especially in peak summer months, though it barely has more than 250 permanent residents.

A stone’s throw from the village you’ll find another incredible monument – the medieval Pont du Diable which arches high above a steep gorge. Legend has it that yet again Guilhem was the hero. The bridge was taking so long to build that Guilhem did a deal with the devil. The evil one agreed to get the job done in return for the first soul to cross after completion. Guilhem sent a dog across and the devil, in a fit of pique tried to destroy the bridge. However he fell into the gorge below which became known as the Gouffre Noir (the black abyss). To this day, pilgrims and locals crossing the bridge throw a stone into the gorge – to keep the devil on the bottom!

A giant’s castle

Embedded in the hills are the remains of a Visigoth fortress. Alongside is an old mule path, trod for centuries by pilgrims and today part of a hike that begins at the edge of the village on the rue du Bout-du-Monde – the street of the end of the world. Take a detour to visit the ruins of the Giant’s castle, a very peaceful spot with fabulous views.

Janine Marsh visited Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert whilst on a CroisiEurope Rhone River tour from Sète to Arles, which includes excursions of the most iconic destinations en route.

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Situated on the south coast of France, Languedoc is one of the biggest wine producing regions in the world. Annual production is the equivalent of 1.8 billion bottles. That’s around 30% of the output of wine produced in France, and more than the whole of Australia’s production. Wine has been grown here since the 5^th century BC when the Greeks introduced vines to the area.

The wily Romans expanded production, knowing a good thing when they drank it. It was also their practice to plant vines as they expanded throughout France – they mixed wine with water because the alcohol kills microorganisms, which helped to keep the army strong and healthy. The prolific production of wine here doesn’t mean lower quality wines. If you’ve not tried Languedoc wine then you really are in for a treat, and if you have, then you’re probably a fan already says Laurent Yung, wine expert at SomMailer, the French wine club in the USA.

The wines of Languedoc

In terms of quality, Languedoc’s wines are considered to be among the best in the world, especially for their red (around 60%) and rosé (around 19% and more than the whole of Provence) wines. However, quality white, sweet and sparkling wines are on the rise. Languedoc boasts varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, Marsanne and more! And the area is the largest producer or organic wines in France.

Many of the wineries are small family holdings that date back generations and that handing down of knowledge is part of what makes these wines so very special. Fermenting different grape varieties separately – plus the art of then assembling them – and growing methods, shape Languedoc AOCs, producing structured, full-bodied wines.

Among the 23 Languedoc appellations that unfurl across 40,000 hectares of vineyards, no two wines are alike. The only common denominator since Antiquity is the Mediterranean. The Mediterranean is to thank for the mild, bright winters, the russet of hot, dry summers, the fragrance of scrubland and the winds carrying the sea air.

Saint-Chinian wines

Nestled in the heart of the region of Languedoc-Roussillon the wine appellation Saint-Chinian (AOC Saint Chinian) is one of the best areas for wine. Spread across some 3,300 hectares, it’s home to 450 wine producers including 110 wineries and 8 cooperatives. There are rich pickings here for the wine connoisseur, with an abundance of different grapes, blends and processes. Historically producing red and rosés but more recently producing classified whites too. Whether you’re a serious and informed wine drinker or just an enthusiast starting out on your wine journey – the wines of Saint-Chinian are really pretty much unbeatable.

A historic area with long summers

And what about the area? Languedoc takes in the Roman town of Nîmes, with hints of the Camargue and the Cévennes. The arty city of Montpellier with its historical heritage and Béziers, a town that has endured 27 centuries of history peppered with periods of prosperity, revolt and massacre. Narbonne, described as a little Rome, and unforgettable Carcassonne, boasting the biggest medieval fortress-town in Europe.

It can get very hot here in the summer months. Autumns and springs are mild, although morning frosts are sometime seen into the month of April. Winters are mild and sunny with temperatures barely dipping below 0°C. Rainfall levels are low (among the lowest in France in some communes). The Tramontane wind is omnipresent, drying the vines and warding off disease. It is an ideal climate for growing vines. But the Mediterranean’s grasp is reduced in the far west of the region. In the appellations of Cabardès and Malepère in particular, the climate is transitional: the mild Atlantic meets the intense Mediterranean.

The terroir of Languedoc

And the terroir (that impossible to translate French word which refers to the soil and growing conditions) differs vastly across the region, depending on ancient geological formations. In some parts terraces of smooth pebbles, sandstone and marl. In others you’ll find limestone and shale, clay soil, pudding stone, sandy soil, molasse, etc. It gives wines grown here unique qualities and a whole range of very different tastes. There are countless aromatic variations – sometimes even within the same appellation. The soils play a very important role because they dictate what grape varietal is grown. Grapes are very picky about heat and water retention. They have very demanding preferences on what kind of soil type they like best! And because of the large array of soil types, Languedoc-Roussillon can offer many different wines to please every sipper.

Shop Wines from Languedoc with SomMailier.com, the French Wine Club in the USA, and get 10% off your first order with the code TGLF2022

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Pézenas in the Herault department, Occitanie is a lovely town to visit throughout the year, although it is more lively during the spring and especially summertime. The historic centre of the town of Pézenas in the south of France has an unexpected and charming artistic vibe. Once the political capital of the Languedoc region and an important trading town, Pézenas has known great periods of prosperity.

There is a big all day food and non-food market every Saturday. Also, the biennial Foire à la Brocante is worth a visit. It takes place every year on the first Sunday in May and the second Sunday in October.

There are several traditional artists and craftworkers in the town and you can follow in the footsteps of the famous French playwriter and actor Molière. Take a self-guided city tour and explore the town at your own pace.

Hôtel de Lacoste

It’s a joy strolling through beautiful Pézenas! And if you visit the Office de Tourism first, they offer you a guide (in English!) with a marked-out route along the town’s highlights. You can follow the long tour over about 2.5 hours or opt for the short version of about 1.5 hours. Starting just a few steps from the Tourist Information Office, follow the numbered arrows that indicate the route. The first monument on the tour is the Hôtel de Lacoste of the Montégut family on Rue François. Pop into the courtyard of this 16th-century hotel and marvel at its rib vaulted staircase.

Maison Consulaire

If you have time for lunch, there are several excellent restaurants on Rue François. Arriving at the Place Gambetta, don’t miss the Maison Consulaire. This classified 17^th century historic monument used to be a consular building and now functions as an art and crafts centre where 200 artists and craftworkers exhibit their work. It’s called La Maison des Métiers d’Art, and it’s definitely worth having a peek inside (it’s closed on Mondays and Sundays).

Maze of cobbled streets

Head next to the Hôtel de Peyrat, with its two corbelled turrets, which lead to the enclosure of the feudal castle. This castle, first mentioned in historical records in 990, was completely destroyed in 1632. Via the Rue du Château and Rue de la Foire you will go reach the city centre through a maze of little cobbled streets.

Facades

Through the Porte Faugères, one of the last remaining sections of the medieval town wall, you enter the Pézenas of the 17th and 18th centuries. From the Cours Jean Jaurès, with its many elegant facades, walk to the fountain on the Place de la République and back into town again. The last part of the walk is maybe a bit less interesting. Although… it will lead you to the Avenue Aristide Briand and Avenue Verdun where there are many antique and second-hand shops.

Tip: There is free parking at the Promenade du Pré Saint-Jean, although it is nearly impossible to find a spot during peak hours such as on a Saturday during the market. Otherwise, you can also try the paid parking lot Voltaire on Boulevard Voltaire, which is close to the Office de Tourism.

Office de Tourisme www.en.capdagde.com

By La Ramoneta, who lives between Montpellier and Perpignan. Find out more about the South of France on her blog www.laramoneta.com

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Narbonne in the Aude department, in Occitanie, southern France is a lively, medium-sized town. It’s also very sunny with around 3,000 hours of sunshine per year. That shouldn’t be your only reason to visit this lovely town though, as you can easily spend a day happily roaming the historic streets. Every street corner seems to reveal interesting remnants of its 2,500 years of history and everything is within walkable distance. And it’s just 15km from the Mediterranean sea.

Les Halles

If you visit Narbonne via the A9 highway, you’ll enter the town via the Quai Victor Hugo where there is free parking. Crossing the Pont de la Liberté gives you a postcard-view of Narbonne. From here, the Palais des Archevêques can be seen peeking above the plane trees and the colourful houses on the Pont des Marchands reflected in the Canal de la Robine. On the left of this canal is Narbonne’s famous covered market ‘Les Halles’. Since 1901, this Baltard-style cast-iron building has been a must-visit for foodies.

Palais des Archevêques

Walking toward the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville by following the Cours de la République will reveal the imposing Palais des Archevêques step by step. The Archbishop’s Palace forms, together with the cathedral, the medieval heart of Narbonne and now hosts the town hall and a museum.

You can visit the museum inside the Palais des Archevêques daily from June to September. During the other months it is closed on Tuesdays. Buying a ticket also gives you access to the 13th century Donjon Gilles Aycelin, the tower on the left if you are standing facing the palace. From the top you’ll have great views over the city.

Founded in 118 BC, Narbonne was the first Roman colony outside of Italy. An important vestige of this ancient civilisation is still visible in the middle of the square: La Via Domitia. This was the original Roman road which connected Italy’s Rome with Cadiz in Spain. It is also a great spot to enjoy an ice cream.

Saint-Just et Saint-Pasteur Cathedral

The Passage de l’Ancre, a most charming cobblestoned alley between the old and new palaces (Le Palais Vieux and Le Palais Neuf), brings you to the vaulted cloister of the Saint-Just et Saint-Pasteur Cathedral. This inner garden offers some welcoming shadow while admiring the many gargoyles.

Since the 4th century, several religious buildings have been built on this spot. However, it wasn’t until the 13th century that the construction of today’s cathedral began. This overambitious, medieval project was never completed though, which means it has no nave. This was mainly due to defensive reasons and misfortune, like lack of resources and the plague, which spread to Narbonne in the 14th century.

Jardin de l’Archevêché

You can visit the vaulted cloister and admire the cathedral from the inside most days

Tip: It’s worth walking around the cathedral (via the Rue Droite and Rue Armand Gauthier). Here, you will find a small, but serene garden along the Rue Gustave Fabre, called Le Jardin de l’Archevêché. And if you go up to the terrace of the garden, you will find a hidden selfie spot, right on the giant public bench. This ‘Banc Public’ was created by Lilian Bourgeat for the In Situ 2014 festival.

Tip: When it comes to parking, if you’re lucky you may find a spot at the free parking lot just before arriving in Narbonne (on Quai Victor Hugo). If you don’t find a place here, you can drive further along Quai Victor Hugo for paid parking or try the Cours Mirabeau parking lot (paid as well).

Office de Tourisme www.narbonne-tourisme.com

By La Ramoneta, who lives between Montpellier and Perpignan. Find out more about the South of France on her blog www.laramoneta.com

The post The best things to do on a day trip to Narbonne appeared first on The Good Life France.

Béziers, in Herault, Occitanie in the far south of France is a bit of a hidden gem. Whether you love strolling through picturesque little streets, having a glass of wine at on the terrace of a charming café or indulging your curiosity for French history – it’s all here.

Here’s a guide to Beziers, one of the oldest cities in France.

Place Jean Jaurès

A good starting point for a walk around Béziers is La Place Jean Jaurès which had a complete makeover in 2018. This big square is a beautiful and spacious place that’s really popular with the locals. It’s also the meeting point for kids to cool down and play in the fountain, which consists of 50 little spurts of water that pop up unexpectedly to increase the fun. When the summer nights fall, it gets even cooler with colourful lights and a music fountain show. All this under the watchful eye of Pierre-Paul Riquet’s statue.

Les Allées Paul Riquet

La Place Jean Jaurès leads to Les Allées Paul Riquet. Born in Béziers, he was the creator of the 240 kilometres long waterway of the Canal du Midi that connects the Mediterranean Sea with Toulouse. At the other end you’ll find Béziers’ Municipal Theatre. If you walk to the back of the theatre, you can spot one of the city’s amazing trompe-l’oeils.

Place de la Madeleine

On to La Place de la Madeleine. This square was named after the Romanesque Madeleine Church, mentioned for the first time in 1092. It’s hard to believe that this peaceful and picturesque square was once the scene of the bloodiest episode in Bézier’s history. In 1209, crusaders of the Albigensian crusade brutally massacred thousands and thousands of inhabitants of the town. Men, women and children had come to the church to seek refuge, but instead of being protected, they were burned to death. The scars of this awful event are still visible to this day.

Les Halles

Another place in Béziers that has had a makeover is Les Halles. This covered market still has its original cast-iron building in Baltard style and dates from 1891. Open daily except Monday, from 07h00 to 13h30, this is a fantastic place to find loads of local produce. It isn’t as big as Les Halles in Narbonne, but you can still find an excellent selection of seafood, cheeses, meat and vegetables. There are several restaurants in and around Les Halles, so it also makes a great stop for lunch.

Saint-Nazaire Cathedral

One of Béziers’ landmarks is the Saint-Nazaire Cathedral. As Béziers sits on a rocky spur, you can already see the cathedral from afar. Like so many other monuments, the Saint-Nazaire Cathedral has known rough times as well. Dating from the 10th century, it was heavily damaged during the 12th-century crusade.

Our little city guide of Béziers ends here, at the terrace in front of the cathedral, gazing over the great Orb plain as far as the Haut-Languedoc Regional National Park.

Béziers is a great place to visit year-round. Although not as touristy as more popular South of France towns, like Carcassonne and Pézenas for example, the best time to visit temperature-wise is in spring or Autumn.

Tip: Two of the best parking spots are the paid parking lot on Place Jean Jaurès and the one on Place de la Madeleine, also called ‘Parking Les Halles 1’. Both parking lots are in the middle of the city centre and a perfect starting point for your stroll through Béziers.

Tourist Office: www.beziers-mediterranee.com

By La Ramoneta, who lives between Montpellier and Perpignan. Find out more about the South of France on her blog www.laramoneta.com

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A 10-day women-only tour of the most historic, stunning and fascinating places in the south of France. From the sun-kissed region of Provence to the ancient towns of Occitanie, discover the very best of the south of France. Indulge in the most amazing food and wine. And experience real France…

The best of the south of France tour

Starting in the Tarn, in the ancient city of Albi, you’ll explore it’s historic streets, awe-inspiring cathedral and see the work of the city’s famous son, Henri de Toulouse Lautrec, and you’ll also get to see the village of Lautrec, famous for its pink garlic and blue pastel dyes. Visit tiny Cordes-sur-Ciel, a medieval perched town that will hold you spell-bound with its sky-high beauty. This artists’ center was once home to the philosopher and poet Albert Camus. Discover gorgeous little villages most visitors miss and remarkable towns such as Gaillac which is where wine in France was first made, and of course you’ll be doing a tasting.

Charming and authentic villages

Then on to Bouches-du-Rhône when you’ll absorb the captivating looks and atmosphere of pretty Pézenas. The historic center is teeming with artists’ studios, captivating cafés and irresistible bookstores and antique shops. In ravishing St-Remy-de-Provence you’ll immerse yourself in the town where Vincent Van Gogh was inspired to create an incredible 150 canvases while convalescing close by. Less well known Eygalières is completely charming, surrounded by vineyards and olive orchards. And as you’ll be there on market day, you’ll see it at its liveliest. It’s the perfect place to sit sipping a glass of something delicious and watch the life of the village go on.

Nearby Uzès  is an absolutely gem of French Renaissance and Romanesque architecture and the village of Fontvielle, considered one of France’s most famous literary landmarks will make your heart skip a beat at its picturesque charm. Witness the jaw-dropping colours of the ochre landscape of Roussillon, the “Colorado of France” from a stunning hilltop village. And go antiquing in irresistible Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the biggest antiques centre in the south of France.

Relax on this luxury tour

Everything is organised for you on this luxury tour. Transport, accommodation and fabulous restaurants organised by your host Sue Aran, an American who has lived in the south of France for many years. This is a small group tour. There’s no rushing about. No hurrying from one place to the next. It’s all about the experience. Getting to know the real France, tasting the most fabulous food and wine, feeling the atmosphere.

This is a unique and very special small group tour and places are limited. Find out more at: FrenchCountryAdventures.com

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Montpellier, the capital city of Herault, Occitanie was once a tranquil fishing village. Now it’s a cool city with a hip vibe. Our essential guide to Montpellier reveals a city of surprises and beauty.

With an average of 300 days a year of sun, a historic centre, architecturally thrilling new town, fabulous bars and restaurants, sandy beaches, plus culture by the bucket load – Montpellier has something to please absolutely everyone.

Guide to Montpellier

Place de la Comédie – the heart of Montpellier

The pedestrianised place de la Comedie is the beating heart of the city and a popular meeting point. The locals call it Place de L’Ouef (Egg Square), thanks to its oval shape. Don’t miss Café Riche in the square, it’s an institution and favourite meeting spot for locals. Cool down with a refreshing Perrier water whose source is between Montpellier and nearby Nimes.

Read more about the beautiful old town of Montpellier

MoCo – an art ecosystem

MOCO, a brand new contemporary art centre that opened its doors in June 2019, showing temporary exhibitions from international collectors.

It’s an art “ecosystem” which pulls three major venues together to bring a diverse and enormous range of contemporary art to the city. There are two exhibition centres and an art school: the Hôtel des collections, in the former Montcalm hotel, a 19th century mansion, with exhibitions of international collections (public or private); La Panacée, free contemporary art centre located in the former historic Royal College of Medicine; and the ESBA (Montpellier Superior Fine Arts School).

Tip: La Panacée has a great restaurant with an architecturally chic interior and shady terrace. It’s seriously trendy and full of savvy locals who love the great value lunch menu, fabulous fresh local produce and the fact that you can borrow books from the shelves. The Sunday morning brunch is very popular. Unlike the rest of the week you can’t book in advance so get there early to bag a table.

Tip: Lovers of urban culture will enjoy the Halle Tropisme in the 4,000m2 Creative City space in a series of former army warehouses, dedicated to cultural and creative industries. Details: www.montpellier3m.fr/moco

Montpellier’s cultural scene

Deconsecrated in the 1980s, the church of Carré Sainte Anne is now a spectacular setting for contemporary art exhibitions and installations. As the sun pours through the beautiful stained-glass windows, the artworks take on an extra special glow.

Founded in 1828 by artist François-Xavier Fabre in what was his home and gallery, the huge Musée Fabre has a fabulous collection of more than 800 works spanning several centuries. Over the years the venue has grown and now occupies three buildings. Don’t miss the monumental and provocative works by Pierre Soulages, one of France’s greatest living artists. You can easily spend half a day browsing at this museum and on a hot day, it’s lovely and cool inside!

Read our guide to 24 hours for art lovers in Montpellier 

The new districts of Montpellier

The city has been growing for a while. At first it went north towards the hills. But, in a calculated decision to control the growth and make it something special, the town is spreading south to the sea. The initiative was hatched in 1977 by then Mayor Georges Frêche. The goal was to create the perfect city. The architectural team started with a blank canvas and turned the outskirts of Montpellier into a real-life laboratory of architecture. It is a total contrast to the old town and yet, it works.

The Antigone neighborhood, named after the ancient Greek play, was erected principally during the 1970s and 1980s. It has plenty of grand neo-classical style buildings and wide-open boulevards, including the central axis, nicknamed the Champs-Elysées by locals. The most innovative architects in the world have designed buildings here but it’s happened in a very organised way. It’s not a messy hotchpotch of looks, there’s a consistent theme being woven through this new part of Montpellier. Wide open spaces, building height restrictions, even the look has to a certain extent been controlled although architects have been given a free hand overall. The New York Times listed Montpellier in its top 100 architectural cities to see before you die.

Tip: Don’t miss L’Abre Blanc. Designed by architects Sou Fujimoto, Nicolas Laisné and Manal Rachdi, it’s bold and architecturally stunning. Gourmets will love the chefs brasseries by Charles Fontes (La Réserve Rimbaud) and Eric Cellier (La Maison de la Lozère) on the ground and first floor. There’s an art gallery and terraced tapas bar with fabulous city views on the 17^th floor.

Markets

French markets are the best! And, there are several markets in Montpellier including Marché des Arceaux in the Peyroux district, west of the old town. In summer the smell of lavender and cheese, just baked bread, warm fruit and slowly roasting chickens is nothing short of drool-worthy. Most people miss this market – don’t, it’s wonderful!

There’s also a covered market, Les Halles Laissac, in the old town. Here you can buy fresh produce and enjoy it straight away at a table beneath the vibrant stained-glass dome designed by a student and teacher team from the MoCo Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts.

Take a hike

The Promenade du Peyrou is a long street which cuts through the centre of the city and leads to the Place Royale du Peyrou which was built to showcase a statue of Louis XIV on horseback. At one end is the Porte du Peyrou, a triumphal Arch. Many people think the arch is Roman, but in fact the Romans never went to Montpellier. It was built in the 17th century, modelled after Porte Saint-Denis in Paris. The Peyrou esplanade gives a panoramic view over the city and the surrounding area.

The ancient city-centre of Montpellier is packed with winding, medieval streets lined with historic buildings, perfect for an eye-popping wander. Rue de la Valfère, rue du Bras de Fer, rue de la Argenterie all offer visitors a glimpse of bygone times.

The city is rich in street art but don’t miss place Édouard Adam, not far from the train station, with its huge trompe l’oeil depicting the exterior of several houses. The tourist office runs a guided street art tour.

Montpellier has a rich history which includes the oldest university of medicine in Europe and the Jardin des Plantes was once a medicinal garden. Today it’s a tranquil and shady oasis in the city, ideal for a stroll or just to sit and relax.

For a different sort of walking tour, discover the immense Aqueduct de Castries, built in the 18th century, inspired by the nearby Roman Pont du Gard. It’s the largest hydraulic structure ever created in France for a private individual. Visit the Tourist Office for details about the Castries trail.

From the city to the Beaches

A visit to the seaside is an integral part of the Montpellier experience. Hop on tram line 3 in the city centre for an 8km, 20 minute city centre to Pérols, the stop is a mere 800m from the Mediterranean Sea. From April to September, beach cafés open their doors and there are pop-up restaurants and event/concerts.

Tip: Take a bike ride out to the beach, through the Antigone and Port Marianne districts and along the Mediterranean trail between vineyards and lagoons…

Eating out

In this lively city, there’s no shortage of bars and restaurants to choose from. If you’re looking for a bar with a relaxed vibe and great wine list, L’Atelier Bar a Vin in the Place de la Canourgue is hard to beat. Locals love it but visitors rarely find this romantic square. It’s the oldest square in Montpellier,  and from here you have a wonderful view over the St Pierre Cathedral. For sheer glamour, the terrace of the Hotel Mercure is perfect for an aperitif in its lush green courtyard (you don’t have to be resident to enjoy it).

What to see close by

Montpellier is a great base for seeing the surrounding area.  Just 20km north is the Pic Saint-Loup mountain. Go kayaking in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert (bus 308 if you don’t have a car). Take the train to Séte and explore the lovely town that’s famous for its oyster production…The tourist office offers a wide range of day trips to local areas. www.montpellier-france.com

Nimes, just 25 minutes away by train, is home to one of the best preserved Roman arenas in the world – it is a stunning sight. The Roman influence is everywhere in this city, from street names to a superbly preserved temple and several ruins.

More on Nimes

Nimes Museum of Romanité: The Museum of Roman History in Nimes has a collection of 5000 exhibits ranging from mosaics and murals to ceramics and statues. Through innovative scenography you’ll discover the fascinating Gallo-Roman period of this area. There’s also a 3,500 m² archaeological and Mediterranean garden. A green roof terrace offers panoramic views over the city.

Pont du Gard

23km from Nimes is one of the most famous Roman monuments of the area, the Roman Aqueduct Pont du Gard. This giant of an engineering masterpiece is three stories and 50 metres high and 2,000 years old. It stands shimmering in the barren heat against miles of unspoilt landscape and in total defiance of the centuries. You can take a tour and there’s a fascinating museum. Read more on Pont du Gard.

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Montpellier in the south of France has elevated its arty status with the launch of MoCo – Montpellier Contemporary in 2019. There’s something for all art fans here – whether you like modern, classic or street art. And if you’ve only got 24 hours in Montpellier, here are our must-sees. Perfect for art lovers – these museums, restaurants and bars are fabulous!

24 hours in Montpellier

MOCO: Montpellier Contemporary, an arty ecosystem

MoCo been called an art “ecosystem” and pulls three major venues together to bring a diverse and enormous range of contemporary art to the city, as well as supporting and training artists. The model is unique to Montpellier and makes this city an irresistible lure for art lovers.

There are two exhibition centres and an art school which make up the MOCO model. MOCO Hotel des Collections is a brand new exhibition centre. It showcases public and private collections in a series of temporary exhibitions. Formerly the Hotel Montcalm, a beautiful 19th century building, the venue has a restaurant, boutique and lovely gardens as well as hosting international art.

La Panacée is one of the three venues which make up MoCo. It’s located in the former historic Royal College of Medicine and specialises in emerging art. It’s exhibitions are provocative, exciting and at times a bit baffling, but always fascinating.

La Panacée the perfect place to go for lunch as well as enjoy the free art. It’s seriously trendy and full of savvy locals who love the great value menu, fabulous fresh local produce and the fact that you can borrow books from the shelves. Kids love it too, there are toys and games for them to play with. On Sunday morning, go for their famous brunch. Unlike the rest of the week you can’t book in advance so get there early to bag a table.

The arty market

Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts (ESBA), the Montpellier art school trains the artists of the future and encourages them to get involved with the MOCO projects and the city’s art programme. For instance at the newly opened covered market Halles Laissac. The vibrant stained glass dome was designed by a student and teacher team from ESBA. Underneath it you’ll find a delicious array of food including macarons made by a master pâtissier. There are delicious cheeses, Corsican specialities, charcuterie and fresh baked bread. There’s a bar here and one of the best things about Halles Laissac is that you can buy your food and then dine at the tables and chairs provided inside and out, the perfect market picnic.

Find details of all MOCO art exhibitions: www.moco.art/en

Street art in Montpellier

There are two parts to Montpellier: the old city and the new. Both are beautiful. But it’s the old city that attracts most visitors to discover its winding labyrinth of hilly cobbled streets, festooned with bunting and lined with chic boutiques, art galleries, bars, cafés and restaurants. Book a guided tour with the Tourist Office to discover the secrets of the city and explore it’s most beautiful streets and street art.

Don’t miss the colourful trompe l’oeil at Place Edouard Adam near the market. Created by artists Agnès and Olivier Costa, it is extraordinary. And the optical illusion trompe l’oeil at Place Saint Roche plays tricks with your eyes. It reflects the 19th century Church of Saint Roch, patron saint of Montpellier and you can’t help but turn around to check!

Musée Fabre

The Fabre museum was founded in 1828 by artist François-Xavier Fabre in what was his home and gallery. This huge museum has a fabulous collection of more than 800 works spanning several centuries from 14th century religious art to contemporary. Over the years the venue has grown and now occupies three buildings. The museum regularly partners with the Louvre for exhibition swaps and puts on temporary exhibitions each year. There are several enormous, provocative works by Pierre Soulages, one of France’s greatest living artists.

Eat out

Locals love: Café Joseph known to locals as Café Jo. It’s good for lunch and even more so for dinner when lights twinkle overhead. Buskers perform in the animated square and the air is filled with the sound of happy chatter.

La Place: In a tiny square hidden in the backstreets of Montpellier, Place Saint-Ravy is a magnet for locals in the know. Once, the Palace of the Kings of Majorca who, many hundreds of years ago were also Lords of Montpellier, stood here. But, the medieval buildings have been converted to restaurants, including La Place. Tables are placed around a tinkling fountain while upstairs a cool room with stone vaulted ceilings provides an intimate dining area.

Bars

In this lively city, there’s no shortage of bars to choose from. However, if you’re looking for a bar with a relaxed vibe and great wine list, L’Atelier Bar a Vin in the Place de la Canourgue is hard to beat. Locals love it but visitors rarely find this romantic square, the oldest in Montpellier. From here you have a wonderful view over the St Pierre Cathedral.

Any visit to Montpellier must include the Place de la Comédie. It’s the beating heart of the city nicknamed L’Oeuf (the egg) thanks to its oval shape. Here you’ll find Café Riche, an institution as much for locals as for tourists, and for people watching – it’s perfect.

Stay at: Hotel Oceania Le Metropole opened in 1858 and a truly luxurious retreat. Its exotic garden with palm tree lined swimming pool and jacuzzi is perfect for unwinding after a day of sightseeing. And even better, it’s just a couple of minutes from the Place de la Comédie and Montpellier train station.

Useful websites: Montpellier tourist office www.montpellier-france.com; UKFrancefr

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Tarn, in the Occitanie region, is one of those places in France that confuses people. They automatically think of the wild Gorges des Tarn which are in Lozère, some 140kms to the North West of Albi, Tarn’s capital. The River Tarn flows through both but there the comparison ends. The département has a landscape of green hills, lush vineyards, medieval Bastide villages and some notable UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Albi

Albi is around an hour west of Toulouse. The city is dominated by the fortress-like Sainte-Cécile Cathedral. It glows red in the early morning, a monstrous mountain of brick, erected from 1282 to 1392, as a powerful show of strength, after the Cathar revolt was finally quashed.

Up close, this Fortress of God is intimidating, a brick bunker, with windows nothing but slits, topped with the highest brick tower in Europe, rising to 78m. It’s part of the UNESCO rated Episcopal City which also includes Bishop Bernard’s own stronghold, the Palais de la Berbie plus the palace’s riverside gardens, the Saint Salvi church and the Pont Vieux.

Cathedral of Albi

After the Gothic gauntness of its exterior, the inside of the Cathedral comes as something of a pleasant surprise. The vault is covered in richly colourful frescoes, the largest example of Italian Renaissance painting in France. At the back is an enormous depiction of the Last Judgement. It’s four stories high and taking up the entire width of the building. It was painted by Flemish artists between 1474 and 1480. The reptilian demons, torturing sad souls for eternity, are a stern reminder of the wages of sin.  It’s missing its central section, knocked through to give access to a more recent chapel at the base of the bell tower. Sadly, that means that God, the judge of the Last Judgement, is no longer to be seen.

At the other end, surrounding the choir is a Gothic rood screen, carved out of limestone, housing dozens of statues in niches. By the central doorway, you can make out Adam trying to cover himself, facing Eve, striking her model’s pose.

Before the Counter Reformation, access to this part of the church was only available to the clergy, keeping out the common people who could only hear, but not see, the celebration of mass.

Son of Albi – Toulouse-Lautrec

Albi’s most famous son is the painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. The house where he was born in 1864 still exists, although it’s closed to the public. What you can see is an almost complete collection of his works in the Palais de la Berbie, next to the Cathedral. When he died in 1901 of alcoholism and syphilis, nobody was interested in his paintings and they struggled to find a home. Fortunately one of his cousins was Mayor of Albi at the time and the Toulouse Lautrec museum opened in 1922.

Lautrec had bone disease, probably a result of inbreeding in his family, and broke his right thigh bone when he fell off a chair when he was 13. Recuperating in the Pyrenees, he tripped and broke the other thigh bone and both never completely healed. He started drawing and painting during long periods of convalescence and went to Paris to study with Bonnat and Cormon. During this time, he had his first encounter with a prostitute and started painting the low life of Montmartre.

Toulouse-Lautrec art at Albi

What surprises in the museum is that he really was an accomplished painter.  You can detect expressionist, impressionist, classical, even chiaroscuro in the 240 canvases on display. He probably influenced Van Gogh and Picasso was a great admirer. Towards the end of his life, in 1891, he taught himself lithography. The result was e the 31 Moulin Rouge posters for which he’s justly famous.

Mappa Mundi

Another UNESCO listed attraction in Albi is the parchment Mappa Mundi, dating from the 8th century, and one of the oldest representations of the world.  It belonged to Albi cathedral and you can see a facsimile in the Treasury with information panels explaining the content and the history.

Rupert Parker is a writer, photographer, cameraman & TV Producer. His special interests are food & travel & he writes about everything from wilderness adventure to gourmet spa tours. Read about his latest adventures on his website Planet Appetite.

Useful Information for Albi

Tarn Tourisme: information on the region; Albi Tourisme: information about the city.
Hotels: Mercure Cité Episcopale Hotel overlooks the river in Albi.
Restaurants: Restaurant Le Lautrec has regional fare opposite the painter’s birthplace in Albi; La Table du Sommelier offers local wine pairings with each course in Albi.

More on the Tarn

What to see and do near Albi, Tarn, Occitainie
10 things to do in Mazamet

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Albi, the capital of the Tarn Department, Occitanie (previously Languedoc Roussillon) offers plenty to do and see. And, there’s also lots to see around and about. We’ve put together a few of our favourite ideas for what to see and do near Albi…

Castres

Around 45 minutes south of Albi is the city of Castres, which developed around the Benedictine abbey of Saint Benoît, founded in AD 647. Don’t miss the Saturday morning market which fills the whole of Place Jean Jaurès. From Quai des Jacobins there’s a striking view of the medieval multi-storey tanners’ and dyers’ houses lining the River Agout, known as the Venice of Languedoc.

All have basements, opening directly onto the river where animal skins were cleansed and rinsed and then put in tanks full of lime. The ground floor was occupied by the workers with the masters living above. On the top two floors were the drying sheds, with shuttered openings protecting the hides from the sun during summer and from the frost during winter. Under the roof, the “soleiller”, or second drying shed was left wide open to let the air and light in.

The Bishop’s Palace is now the town hall and has immaculately laid out gardens by Le Notre, a famous 17th century landscape gardener who also laid out the gardens at Versailles. It’s also home to the Goya museum, dedicated to Spanish artists, and contains a handful of works by the master himself.  Don’t miss their Picasso, the “Bust of Man Writing”, on loan from the Picasso Museum.

Royal School-Abbey of Sorèze

Half an hour south west from here is the Bastide village of Sorèze. The Benedictine abbey became a Royal Military School under Louis XVI, then a college for the rich and famous and only closed in 1991.

The main attraction here are the UNESCO World Heritage tapestries of the master weavers of Aubusson. It was a monk, Dom Robert, from the nearby Abbey of En Calcat, who revived the tradition in the early twentieth century.

In the new museum, located in the Abbey School, there are 60 stunning examples of his tapestries, featuring motifs inspired by nature, plus sketches and paintings.  Other works by the Aubusson weavers are also featured and there’s an exhibit outlining the process of creating a tapestry.

Les Cammazes

In the southwestern end of the Tarn, in the Black Mountains, is the tiny village of Les Cammazes. It’s an unlikely UNESCO site but its claim to fame is the Rigole de la Montagne, or Mountain Channel, which supplies water to the Canal du Midi.

It was built in 1666 by engineer Pierre-Paul Riquet. 20 year later the great Vauban modified it. He created a vault designed to pass through the mountain. This 122m underground aqueduct has been recently restored and is open to the public. It’s not for the faint of heart as the pathway is dark and narrow, but armed with a torch, it’s a unique experience.

Useful Information

Castres Tourisme: information about the city.
Where to stay: Hotel Abbaye Ecole de Sorèze is inside the Abbey
Restaurants: La Part des Anges has a Michelin Bib Gourmand in Castres; Les Collets Rouges is a stylish establishment inside Sorèze Abbey; Le Salon de Vauban serves home grown produce in Les Cammazes.

More on Albi – the top things to do in the city

Rupert Parker is a writer, photographer, cameraman & TV Producer. His special interests are food & travel & he writes about everything from wilderness adventure to gourmet spa tours. Read about his latest adventures on his website Planet Appetite.

The post What to see and do near Albi, Tarn, Occitainie appeared first on The Good Life France.