Listed by UNESCO for its architectural heritage, Arles offers an irresistible Mediterranean lifestyle at the gateway to France’s largest wetland.  Gillian Thornton let herself go with the flow…

There are many good reasons why I would love to live in Arles. The warm Provençal sunshine. That enviable Mediterranean lifestyle. And the irresistible buzz of art and architecture from ancient times to the present day. But there’s another reason.

I’d really love to ask friends to ‘Meet me by the Roman Theatre at midday’ or ‘Catch up outside the Arena at 7 tonight’. Not many places can boast such monumental Roman meeting places as Arles in the heart of a 21^st century city.

Historic past – Roman legacy

Northern gateway to the wetlands of the Camargue, Arles, in the department of Bouches-du-Rhône, stands on the right bank of the Rhône and was originally a Celtic city, later colonised by the Greeks. The Romans arrived in the 1^st century AD, quickly expanding the city until it was home to some 50,000 people. More than 21,000 toga-clad citizens could watch high-octane combat in the vast amphitheatre of Roman Arelate, whilst just a short walk away across the paved streets, the theatre was the place for more intellectual entertainment. Local citizens have been meeting by these monuments ever since.

In the Middle Ages, the 130-metre arena was redeployed as a fortified community, but today you can still sit in the ancient tiers and enjoy events such as the popular Course Camarguaises, or Bull Races. No bulls are harmed in this test of man versus bovine, but human competitors can expect a few sharp scratches if they try to snatch rosettes from the up-turned horns of the local black bulls.

Too much excitement? Then buy a ticket for a summer concert or drama production at the Roman theatre, a chance to slip back in time, even without a toga. And Roman immersion doesn’t stop there. Explore the Baths of Constantine, close to the banks of the Rhône; visit the city’s well-stocked archaeological museum, the Musée Départemental Arles Antique; and stroll the tree-lined Alyscamps lined with Christian tombs. Couturier Christian Lacroix, who was born in the city in 1951, recalls happy childhood games amongst these ancient stones.

Medieval Marvels, Renaissance gems

But Arles isn’t all about the Romans. Fast forward to the 12^th century when the city was further embellished with a wealth of Romanesque monuments. If you have time for just one, make it the Church of Saint Trophime with its spectacular carved portal and double-decker cloister. Invest a handful of euros for the experience of standing on the upper gallery and looking down into the tranquil space. And in the square outside, what else but a Roman obelisk, originally positioned in the Roman Circus.

In 1981, UNESCO bestowed World Heritage status on Arles for its abundance of Roman and Romanesque buildings, but turn the clock forward yet again to the 17^th century to add fine Renaissance mansions to the architectural mix, testimony to the wealth of their well-to-do owners.

Artists in Arles

No surprise then that this multi-layered city attracted the artistic eye of Vincent Van Gogh who spent his most productive spell here. The Dutch artist arrived on a cold winter’s day in 1888 in search of light and found so much of it that he painted 200 paintings and produced almost as many drawings and letters in just 15 months.

Sadly none of Vincent’s paintings are on permanent display here, but it’s still spine-tingling to follow in the artist’s footsteps and stand at the spots where he placed his easel.  Download the self-guided trail from www.arlestourisme.com (link below) to find ten reproductions of his work, particularly atmospheric at night when you can appreciate his vision of La Nuit Etoilée from the banks of the Rhône and the illuminated canopy of Le Café ‘Le Soir’ in Place du Forum.

Van Gogh’s legacy remains

After three psychotic attacks, one of which involved cutting off part of his ear, Van Gogh left the city in May 1889 for a sanatorium in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, but his presence infuses the city streets to this day. Other artists left a more tangible legacy. Pablo Picasso fell in love with the Réattu Museum of fine arts, modern and contemporary art that was launched in the 19^th century with a donation of works by neo-classical painter Jacque Réattu.

The collection is housed in the former Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta and in 1971, Picasso donated 57 of his drawings to what became one of the first public collections of his work. Don’t miss the city’s only original Van Gogh – a letter written by Vincent to Paul Gauguin in 1889.

The Musée Réattu was also the first French fine arts museum to have a photography department. The city has since become synonymous with photographic images. Visit any time from July through September to see photos on show in a variety of indoor and outdoor spaces as part of the International Photography Festival.

LUMA

Most recent addition to the city skyline is LUMA Arles, an eye-catching art and culture centre on the site of a former railway siding. Designed by Frank Gehry, the 56-metre high twisted tower is made from recycled materials, rising from the Parc des Ateliers and visible from all over the city.

Inside its wonky walls, experimental artists, scientists and thinkers of all kinds seek to challenge conceptions through exhibitions, accessible archives, and public events, not just around art and culture, but human rights, the environment, and research. Check out their programme at www.luma.org/arles and make time to wander the 4-hectare park, landscaped as a journey through the flora and fauna of the region.

Some love it; others loathe it. But whatever your view on LUMA Arles, there’s no denying that this controversial building is just the latest phase in a city that has been pushing the boundaries for almost 2,000 years.

Visitor information

Visit www.arlestourisme.com to plan your trip and once in town, head for the Tourist Information Office on Boulevard des Lices to book themed guided tours and pick up self-guided trail maps. A Pass Liberté is valid for one month and gives access to four monuments/museums of your choice for 12 euros (concessions, 10 euros).

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

Take a day or half day tour of Arles with Ophorus Tours

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Paradise on the French Riviera

Antibes is one of those places that you stumble upon and realise that you’ve found a sun drenched French corner of paradise. Of course others have found this too, Picasso, Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway all fell in love with its charms. They would probably recognise its famous sites today, almost a hundred years after they partied here in the roaring twenties.

Take a dip in the sea. Wander the old district of Antibes and the scent of orange blossom, lavender and jasmine fills the air. Narrow winding roads with ornamental cobbles lead you past tall old houses dripping with bright pink bougainvillea. In the centre, numerous bars, restaurants and shops lead off from the central Cours Masséna where the market is held and wind around the port. It’s a smallish town but there’s plenty to see and do…

Picasso Museum

The former Grimaldi Chateau which houses a permanent exhibition of Picasso’s works as well as temporary exhibitions, is the number one attraction in Antibes. You don’t need to be a Picasso fan to enjoy it. The castle is lovely with fabulous views over the sea from its statue-strewn terrace. If you are a fan, you’ll love the sense of the artist that you get here. He had a key to the castle and spent from September to November 1946 creating huge paintings in the vast space. A display of black and white photos portray his time in Antibes.

Le Marché Provençal

The daily covered market in the centre of the walled old city is one of the best I’ve ever been to. Tables groan under the bounty of Southern France: spices and lavender, olives and oils, fig vinegar and jams with violet, hibiscus and lavender. Amazing vegetables of jewel-like colours, glistening celery, dried fruit, salt from the Camargue, colourful Italian pasta. Don’t miss the gold medal winning saucissons from Corsica on the stall of “Tony and Nadia.” Skewers strung with meat, peppers and onions, slathered in fresh pesto that make you long to light the barbecue. Cheese and yoghurts. Giant courgette flowers ripe for stuffing. Truffle-everything from mustard to oil and pasta. Macarons in every colour, flowers and berries. Nature is clearly kind in this part of France and the bounty is well… bountiful.

For the best bread, it’s a stone’s throw from the market to Boulangerie Veziano (2 rue de la Pompe). Baker Jean-Paul Veziano made the bread for the wedding of Prince Albert of Monaco. And he is famous for this Main de Nice bread. Literally translated as ‘hand of Nice’ this once traditional bread is rarely to be seen in the south of France.

And when the market ends around mid-day, the square is covered in table and chairs from the surrounding bars and restaurants. Or you could head to the absinthe bar!

Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder

Absinthe was a favourite drink of many artists from Van Gogh to Picasso. Find out what they loved about it at the fabulous absinthe bar (25 Cours Masséna). Three generations have run the bar and serve 50 varieties of the “green fairy.” I have to say, it was my first time and it was much nicer than I expected. Slightly liquorice-y, sweet, refreshing and rather surprisingly not strongly alcoholic tasting! It’s served the correct way. Ice cold water drips from a fountain on the table, through a lump of sugar on a flat silver spoon to dilute the pure absinthe. And all this inside a former Roman well where you are encouraged to wear an old-fashioned hat from a selection – just as they did in the old days!

A town of art and culture

Antibes has lured many artists. Graham Greene lived in a modest apartment here for 24 years. He lunched most days at Café Felix (still there) by the archway to the port. Russian-born artist Nicolas de Staël lived and worked here. Unhappy in love and lacking confidence in his own talent, a dawn to dusk painter, he jumped to his death from his studio. The spot is marked with a plaque, overlooking the beach.

Antibes is still very arty. All along the Boulevard d’Auillon, the former casemates, rooms in the rampart wall, have been converted to artists ateliers. Here’ you’ll find potters, painters, ceramicists, and master glassblower, Didier Saba.

Fulfil your literary desire for English language books at Antibes Books. It’s a lovely bookshop and my opinion has zero to do with the fact that I did a double take when I went in and saw all three of my own books in the best sellers and new releases sections!

Safranier district

There is a flowery little corner of Antibes known as the Safranier district which is a ‘free commune.’ Created in the 1960s, this small area has its own Mayor who is powerless but whose job it is to organise festivities year-round! This includes the making of a record-breaking yule log at Christmas which measures some 14 metres. It’s a great place to go for a meal or an aperitif and soak up the fun atmosphere. Head to café Lilian Bonnefoi, the restaurant of head pastry chef at the very prestigious hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, in Place Safranier. It’s also a cake-making laboratory, where you can take cookery lessons and or enjoy a gourmet coffee break treat.

Juan-les-Pins

You can walk to Juan-les-Pins from the centre of Antibes in around an hour. Or just hop on the train for a couple of euros and be there in minutes. There’s a very different vibe here, it’s buzzy and more commercial. The beaches are fabulous, but head around the bay to see the swanky homes of former artists, writers and the great and good of the day. And treat yourself to a cocktail at the Belle Rives Hotel. It was once the Villa St. Louis, home to Scott Fitzgerald and his troubled wife Zelda.

Peynet Museum

Looking rather like a repurposed post office building, the Peynet Museum is a hidden gem. Raymond Peynet is famous for his whimsical drawings of a young romantic couple, but at the museum you see more of his artwork which reveals an artist who had a deft touch, delicate drawings and a droll sense of humour. Sometimes his art is sneaky, sometimes lustful, other times witty. His commercial posters and illustrations are beautiful.

A place to enjoy the good life

This isn’t a place for racing around. Here you relax. Take your time. Swim or sunbathe on one of the long sandy beaches. People watch. Sit at bars where 6pm is celebrated with a glass of wine brought to you with a smile and a cheery ‘avec plaisir.’ And petanque games go on from morning to nightfall.

Where to eat: There’s a fabulous choice of restaurants here but don’t miss Restaurant Bistrot Margaux. Just a few minutes’ walk from the centre, it faces Port Vauban and chef Frédéric Buzet creates mouth-wateringly memorable dishes. www.bistrot-margaux-antibes.fr

Where to stay: I stayed at the  lovely Hôtel La Villa Port d’Antibes & Spa**** which opened in June 2020. It’s ideally located a stone’s throw from Port Vauban and the ramparts of the old town. www.villa-port-antibes.com
Practical information: Antibes-juanlespins.com

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Cannes on the Cote d’Azur, which English speakers call the French Riviera, is famous for the world’s most glamorous annual trade show – the Film Festival. Each May, the sunny city attracts the great, the good and the wannabees of the movie world – drawn to the glitzy, glamorous town like moths to a flame. For the duration of the event, red carpets abound, parties are held, superstars parade and blow kisses to celebrity-spotting fans and paparazzi, Champagne corks pop and Cannes’ beaches are groomed to photo-op ready perfection.

But there’s a different side to Cannes that makes it a year-round bucket list destination and a perfect weekend getaway…

Explore the old town

Head to the old district of Cannes, built on a hill, it’s known as Le Suquet. Once a fishermen’s quarter, it’s home to steep cobbled alleys and candy-coloured houses their window boxes dripping with flowers. Wander and get lost in the little winding streets where you’ll find plenty of boutiques, bars and bistros.

Don’t forget your camera because this is a very photogenic little part of Cannes with fountains and hidden gardens, and make your way to the top of the hill of Le Suquet. It now houses has a collection of paintings and puts on a different exhibition each year. From this lofty position, which has a tranquil feel, quite different from the Cannes that lies below, you have sweeping views over the bay of Cannes. Climb the 109 steps of the square tower which crowns the chateau, for a bird’s eye view and 360 degree panorama. If you don’t fancy the hike to the top, hop on the Little Tourist Train.

At the base of Le Suquet, visit Marché Forville the city’s outdoor produce market near the Maritime port. Each morning, stalls are piled high with local produce, delectable olives, cheeses, fresh vegetables and pasta daily except Monday, when it becomes a flea market.

Life’s a beach

In the centre of Cannes there are 33 sandy beaches spread over 7.5km.  Every year the city funds the reclamation of sand washed out to sea in the winter. As a result, the width of beaches has increased from 25 to 40 meters. Scattered among the private beaches are public areas including les Rochers, Nadine, Pointe Croisette, Roubine, Mace and Gazagnaire. Each summer the town protects bathers from jelly fish and the latter three beaches have special nets in place until the end of September. Locals favour the miles of public beach along the Boulevard du Midi les Rochers (opposite La Bocca railway station), a bit of a local secret, and great for snorkelling. Take some bread and the fish will eat out of your hands.

Promenade. It seems everyone who visits Cannes just loves to walk along the Croisette. I’ve never seen so many glittery T-shirts in one place! There are plenty of kiosks selling food and drink en route, and chairs are available (free) to drag under the shade of trees or sit and soak up the sun. Spot your favourite celebrity’s handprints on the star-studded floor in front of the Palais des Festivals!

 Go island-hopping

Off the coast of Cannes lie the Îles de Lérins, the Lérins Islands. You can visit the Île Sainte-Marguerite and Île Saint-Honorat by taking a short shuttle boat ride which run regularly throughout the year from Quai St Pierre. It’s a real escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. Saint-Honorat has been inhabited by monks for more than 1600 years. Nowadays, the 25 monks who live here produce wine from eight hectares of vineyard. They also make a local speciality, Lerina liquor, and honey. Wander the pine tree-lined the paths and visit the abbey for complete relaxtion. There are a couple of restaurants and it’s an idea place for a picnic, idyllic and tranquil.

The Musée de la Mer is in the former Royal Fortress on the Île Ste-Marguerite. It’s the largest of the islands and separated from Saint Honorat by just 600m of water. Built by Cardinal Richelieu, minister to Louis XIII, the prison once housed the Man in the Iron Mask.

And don’t miss the first underwater eco-museum in France has opened in Cannes, off the island of Sainte Marguerite. British sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor has created six statues made of an ecological material to raise public awareness and promote the return of underwater flora and fauna to this now protected space where boat mooring is prohibited. Amask and snorkel are all you need to visit.

Film tour

Even when the Film Festival is over – Cannes film credentials are ever present. Take a guided tour to see the street art and famous locations.

Where to eat

The Croisette beaches are lined with Instagrammable restaurants and dining here is one of the Riviera’s great pleasures.

Wine and dine: Fouquet’s Brasserie, 10, boulevard de la Croisette at the Majestic puts a Riviera touch to the cuisine of the Champs-Élysées landmark of the same name. The menu has been designed by 3 Michelin-star Chef Pierre Gagnaire. Their Sunday brunch at a civilised 12-4pm, complete with Champagne, is superb.

Locals love: In the old district of Cannes you’ll find the city’s oldest restaurant. Da bouttau (top photo) was founded in 1860. Picasso dined here and it’s long attracted the film festival stars – from Sean Connery to George Clooney.

Shop until you drop

If you’re a fan of shopping and in particular posh brands, head to two long parallel streets: La Croisette and rue d’Antibes. All the big names are there – and you’ll need a big purse.

Enjoy a sundowner

 Aperitif time on the Cote d’Azur is one of life’s great pleasures. There’s plenty of choice in Cannes from the bars in the old town, along la Croisette and in the city. La Rotonde Grande Dame Champagne Bar is just about perfect. You can sit and listen to the gentle lapping of the waves while you gaze at the sun setting over the Lerins Islands.

Where to stay – bucket list hotel

For a luxury stay (de rigeur in Cannes), Hôtel Barrière Le Gray d’Albion is ideal. It’s long been the secret refuge of the stars of cinema who love it for its refined comfort. All 200 designer rooms and suits are decorated in an understated muted palette of soft colours – very Chanel-like and not ostentatious. Nearly all rooms have balconies and the views over the sea or rooftops of Cannes are superb. The big King size beds have a cocooning effect – essential for your beauty sleep in this city of beautiful people.

There’s a great terrace restaurant that’s like a little oasis in the city, and a perfectly air-conditioned designer bar. Guaranteed to make you feel like a celebrity, the hotel is in a perfect location. It’s just steps from La Croisette where you’ll find the hotel’s beachside restaurant Mademoiselle Gray and beach area Plage Barrière, and a stone’s throw from Le Suquet.

Hôtel Barrière Le Gray d’Albion 

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Venasque is a small but perfectly pretty village. You’ll find it in the centre of the Vaucluse department of Provence, to the south-east of Carpentras and not far from gorgeous Gordes. Perched high on a rocky promontory below the majestic Mont Ventoux, Venasque has far-reaching views across the Nesque valley and Vaucluse. The village is officially listed as one of the ‘most beautiful villages in France’.

What to see in Venasque

Venasque is quite a small village and doesn’t take long to explore. The centre is very picturesque with winding streets lined with pretty, ancient houses, and a few fountains. There are a few shops, arts and crafts and a handful of restaurants.  It’s rarely busy here but it is full of charm and very tranquil. There’s a small weekly summer market from the last Friday in June to the last Friday in September. The main festival is the Cherry festival held in early June.

The baptistry, located behind the church includes pagan, Roman and Christian relics. According to tradition, the baptistry was founded in the Merovingian period by St. Siffrein, a monk of the abbey of Lerins, who became bishop of Venasque at the end of the 6^th century. The building is set out like a four leaf clover and each ‘leaf’ has 5 arches inside with domed roofs.

The village is surrounded by vineyards, cherry orchards and the garrigue, the name given to the aromatic scrubland of southern France. If you’re visiting the more well known L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Carpentras, Gordes or Fontaine de Vaucluse, it’s worth a detour to discover sleepy and picturesque Venasque.

More on Provence

Petit guide to Provence

Markets of Provence 

10 fabulous things to do in Provence

The four seasons of Provence in photos

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In an area famous for so many things, like beautiful lavender fields, charming hilltop villages, and delicious food, it’s hard to pick favourites. We asked local author Keith van Sickle for his top ten fabulous things to do in Provence …

Magic in a Mountain

Imagine this: you enter a giant cavern with sheer, 30-foot-high walls. Huge images start to appear on one wall, then another, then on the floor. You realize that they are paintings by a great artist like van Gogh or Cézanne. The images pulse and swirl, full of life and color, their movements choreographed to beautiful music. This is the Carrières de Lumières, the world’s most magical sound and light show, and a different artist is featured each year. It’s so popular that copies are popping up all over the world, but none matches the original. You really do have to see it to believe it!

France’s Fjords

East of Marseille, tall cliffs plunge down to the sea, with craggy inlets here and there. These calanques are like mini fjords, the grey stone contrasting with the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean where you see sailboats anchored, their passengers sunning on tiny beaches. If you’re feeling energetic you can hike to the calanques, but I recommend taking one of the regular boat rides that depart from the pretty little port town of Cassis, then you can see the calanques in two hours or less. Be sure to try some seafood at one of the restaurants along Cassis’s waterfront.

Picnic in the Sky

The Cedar Forest sits far above the Luberon Valley, higher even than the nearby hilltop village of Bonnieux. As you take the winding road up to the forest, there’s a secret spot off to the side where you can picnic under a tree and enjoy an unparalleled view across the valley.

Walk Through a Rainbow

A century ago, ochre was mined in Roussillon and used as pigment in paint. The ochre quarries are abandoned now but there’s a well-marked walking trail through them. Follow it and admire the brilliantly-coloured hillsides—you’ll see red, purple, orange, and yellow. The town of Roussillon is a nice place to enjoy lunch or coffee, and all the buildings are painted in various ochre shades. Nearby and less crowded is the Colorado Provençal, with its own abandoned ochre quarries that are more rustic than Roussillon’s but equally beautiful.

Bike to Hell and Back

The Alpilles Mountains are full of biking routes with fabulous views, that range from easy to moderately difficult. Our favourite ride is to puff our way from St-Rémy up to the Val d’Enfer (Hell Valley.) It’s full of rugged boulders and rocky outcroppings and there’s a spot where you can look straight across to the mountaintop fortress of Les Baux-de-Provence. The best part of the ride is coasting back!

The Stunning Roman Aqueduct

The Pont du Gard was built over 2,000 years ago, to bring water to the city of Nîmes. It is so big that Roman engineers had to build it on three levels, each with its own set of arches.  The aqueduct crosses over the Gard River and is as tall as the top of the Statue of Liberty’s torch! For extra fun you can rent a kayak and float under it.

Hike to the Top of the World

La Caume is one of the highest points of the Alpilles Mountains and is surprisingly easy to reach on foot. Rather than starting at the bottom, you can drive to a big parking lot that’s part of the way up and join the trail there. It’s paved and well-marked and not too steep, and the view from La Caume is terrific—to the north you can see the Rhône Valley and to the south the view goes all the way to the Mediterranean Sea.

The Outdoor Markets

One of the glories of Provence is its outdoor markets, full of wonderful sights, smells, and tastes. You can sample cheeses, drool over roast chickens, and chat with the olive vendor, find perfect souvenirs, then relax in a café. You can’t visit Provence without going to its markets – every town and village has its own. My favorite, of course, is St-Rémy’s.

A River of Sheep

Every year, thousands of sheep march through the streets of St-Rémy, accompanied by musicians, shepherds, sheepdogs, and the occasional goat. It’s like a river of sheep flowing through town! Afterwards there are sheepdog trials. This is a fun event for the whole family. It’s all part of the annual transhumance festival that commemorates the days when sheep used to walk to higher pastures to escape the summer heat.

Birth of a River

Imagine that you are walking on a path next to a river, going upstream. You look up and see that you are coming to a high cliff. You wonder how the river gets past it – maybe it goes around? Then you get to the cliff and you realize the river is coming out of the ground, just bursting forth. You’re at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, one of the largest springs in the world, and so deep that even Jacques Cousteau couldn’t reach the bottom.

Keith and Val Van Sickle live part of the year in St-Rémy-de-Provence and have traveled widely throughout the region.  Keith is the author of An Insider’s Guide to Provence (read our review).  

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For many, the first thing that springs to mind when thinking of Avignon in Provence is the well-known French children’s song about dancing on a bridge in the city: “sur le pont d’Avignon, l’on y danse, l’on y danse“. But did you know that the 12^th century bridge is UNESCO listed? And it’s not the only UNESCO-listed site in this medieval city…

The UNESCO-listed sites of Avignon

Palais des Papes and the Place du Palais

From 1309 to 1377 Avignon was the seat of seven successive Catholic Popes beginning with Clement V, a Frenchman. Unrest in Rome and politics played a part in the decision to move papal power to Provence. Of course the Popes had to have somewhere suitable to live. The monumental Palais des Papes, the Popes’ Palace, was built between 1335 to 1352 and over the years there were more modifications.

Jean Froissart, a 14^th century chronicler and writer who visited Avignon, described it as “the most beautiful and strongest house in the world.” It housed Europe’s largest library at the time. And it wasn’t cheap to build, costing 400,000 Livres (the French currency at the time). That’s a whopping six times what Pope Clement VI spent when he bought the city of Avignon from Johanna, Countess of Provence, in 1348. The city was only reclaimed by France in 1793.

Set in the immense Place du Palais, the palace is as big as five cathedrals. It has an eye-popping 15,000 m² of floor space (three times the size of the White House in Washington DC). In fact, it is the biggest Gothic palace in the world.

The popes of Avignon

When the Papal court was moved back to Rome, dissident cardinals in Avignon “elected” two more Popes to reign in France, This actiion split the church for 39 years, but in the end Rome was the victor. The Popes Palace in Avignon became a residence for visiting dignitaries and fell into disrepair. During the French Revolution it became a prison. Then was turned into a barracks for Napoleon’s soldiers. It wasn’t until the early 1900s that the magnificence of the building was once again recognised. It became a public museum in 1906.

Twenty-five rooms in the palace are open to visitors including the former Indulgence Window. From here the Pope gave blessings to the crowds below. You can visit the grand formal rooms which held banquets and ceremonies, the Treasury, the private chapels and apartments with priceless frescoes.

Petit Palais

The palace is surrounded by other monuments including the former residence of Bishops, known as the Petit Palais. It’s not actually that petit and covers an impressive 3000 m² with  two inner courtyards. It was rebuilt in the 15^th century on the site of a former palace built to house Archbishop Julien de la Rovère. He later became Pope Jules II. It’s now a museum with an extensive collection of artworks of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance including works by Botticelli and Carpaccio.

Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral

Next to the Palais des Papes is the Cathedral of Notre Dame des Doms. It was built in 1150 in the Provençal Romanesque style and predates the Papal complex. Gothic style chapels were added between the 14th and 17th centuries. Atop the cathedral’s bell tower, a 20-foot gilded statue of the Virgin Mary presides over the surroundings.

Rocher des Doms Gardens

A short walk from the cathedral you’ll find the Rocher des Doms park. From its peak you have panoramic views of the Rhone river. It’s a beautiful park, centred around a pond which is home to swans and other waterfowl, and offers a green refuge from the summer heat to tourists and locals alike.

Clos de la Vigne

Within the Rocher des Doms park the Clos de la Vigne is the only AOC intramural vineyard in France on a UNESCO World Heritage site. The small parcel of vines features 12 grape varieties for red and white wines. Grapes are harvested by hand, and in 2021 the first bottles of matured wine were auctioned for charity. The vineyard overlooks the river Rhone and the famous Saint-Bénézet bridge, the town’s emblem and yet another UNESCO listed monument in Avignon…

Saint-Bénézet bridge – the Pont d’Avignon

The building of the bridge of Avignon was begun in 1175 after a 10 year-old shepherd from the Ardèche named Bénézet (which means ‘Little Benoit’) claimed to have been told by God to build a bridge along the waterfront in Avignon. Legend has it that, after walking to Avignon, accompanied by an angel disguised as a pilgrim, he was challenged by the Bishop’s provost to carry an impossibly large block of stone to the water’s edge. It was so large, it was said that thirty strong men couldn’t move it.

The tale goes that aided by angels bathed in golden light, he hoisted the stone onto his shoulder  Then he laid it as the foundation stone for the Bridge. Overcome by this miraculous feat, benefactors supplied sufficient funds. It took ten years to complete the bridge. Bénézet’s feat was declared a miracle, though he died without seeing it completed, he died in 1184. Pilgrims flocked to see the bridge whose fame spread far and wide. And the shepherd became the patron saint of bridge builders.

Louis XIV the last walker on the bridge

Originally almost a kilometre long, the bridge had 22 arches. It was built at a point of the river where the force of water was so strong, even Roman engineers were deterred from building there. Today, only four arches remain, the bridge having been poorly maintained, reconstructed several times and finally swept away by floods. It collapsed in the 17^th century and it’s said that King Louis XIV was one of the last people to walk across it.

On the bridge the little stone Chapel of Saint-Bénézet where the saint was originally buried, was rebuilt in 1414 after the “War of the Catalonians”. The Saint’s remains are now in the nearby 14^th century Gothic church of Saint-Didier, built during the time of the Popes in Avignon.

The ramparts of Avignon

The old city of Avignon is encircled by ramparts. They are 4.3km long and were built to protect the city from the assaults by gangs of marauding mercenaries. Work began in 1355 during the Papacy of Pope Innocent VI. It was completed in 1370 under the reign of Pope Urban V. The entrance of the Avignon Bridge provides access onto the ramparts, and to the Rocher des Doms Gardens. The views over the city and the Rhône River are breath-taking.

“Very few medieval cities in Provence have intact ramparts today. They were sometimes demolished by kings to weaken the power of the local community. For instance Louis XIV ordered the demolition of Orange’s fortifications in 1660, which makes Avignon’s ramparts all the most special. And sometimes they were just taken by the locals to use for building materials.” says Emily Durand of Your Private Provence.

But don’t go thinking Avignon is a museum town. It’s a vibrant city with lots of beautiful squares where you can sit and watch the world go by at superb bars and restaurants. There are more than a dozen museums and year-round festivals. You’ll find fabulous markets (don’t miss Les Halles). And it’s the perfect place to wander with picturesque streets lined with magnificent architectural gems.

Recommended tour: Heritage sites and lavender tour

Where to eat out in Avignon as recommended by the locals

Top things to do in Avignon

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After Lascaux in the Périgord and Chauvet in the Ardèche, the Cosquer caves have become the third French cave replica to open to the public. Located in sunny Marseille the caves were hidden for millennia. However, damage done to the original versions of these unique sites through visits, means they have been sealed off to the public. The race was on to replicate the Cosquer cave as rising sea levels are visibly rubbing the prehistoric decorations off the cave walls. In fact one poor horse has already lost his legs. It is estimated that 50 years from now, most of the cave will be submerged and the paintings and engravings lost forever.

The Cosquer Caves

The replica has been constructed inside the existing white modernistic and cubic Villa Méditerranée. It opens on to the sea in one direction and the local Yacht Club in another. All in all, a more ideal location is hard to imagine.

Visiting a cave replica is a very different experience to anything you might usually associate with this type of excursion. Forget the damp, the odors and pocket torches. Think more “It’s a Small World” at Disneyland – without the music. It does though, have its own almost unbelievable true story.

There are two visits possible, one lasting 35 minutes and another takes 50 minutes. Headsets are provided and the journey takes place seated in comfortable carts on wheels. They advance slowly stopping in front of the most important features of the caves (a bit Jurassic Park-like). This makes the caves accessibe for all. And having seen it before it opens to the public, we can assure you this fabulous new attraction is guaranteed to captivate young minds as well as old and those in between.

History of the Cosquer caves

The most recent chapter in the cave’s history began in 1985. An experienced amateur diver named Henri Cosquer came across an underwater passageway 37 m under the sea in the famous Calanques region near Marseilles. After a couple of thwarted attempts, he managed to follow the 116 m long gallery uphill into a large cave. Several visits later noticed a handprint which he photographed, mistaking it for modern graffiti. When he developed the film at home, he noticed six other handprints around it. They were unmistakably ancient. News broke fast in the region. A painted cave had been discovered. But when three divers tragically lost their lives in the long passageway, the game was up. The site was declared officially to the authorities and completely sealed off to non-official divers in 1991.

Unique paintings and engravings

For the last 30 years the whole cave has been examined in detail. And, we now know that many of the decorations predate the Lascaux site by some 15 thousand years. More than 500 charcoal paintings and engravings depicting mostly animals and handprints have been revealed. The unique feature of the Cosquer caves is the presence of marine mammals. Amazingly this includes both penguins and seals – animals not seen in prehistoric caves anywhere else.

Scientific studies have revealed that 30,000 years ago when these caves were used by local tribesmen and women, the sea lay some 12 km from the site. Incidentally penguins are now only found in and around Antarctica. Fossils found locally show that the species would have been the Great Penguin. They still existed in the 19^th century but were hunted to extinction by sailors and fishermen for the edible flesh.

It is estimated that about two thirds of the drawings have already been rubbed off by the sea. This makes assumptions about the use of the cave largely impossible to verify. However, it is likely to have been a place of worship. One painting seems to show a man with the legs of a bison, and no digs have revealed any sign of habitation of the caves. The drawings are beautifully executed without errors, indicating that they were probably carried out by expert artists.

Ancient artistry

There are two main periods when the cave was used, 35-37 thousand years ago. Then again 17-19 thousand years ago. Fascinatingly there is no change in art style during this long interval. In addition, of course Cosquer has its fair share natural features including impressive stalactites and stalagmites.

Other exhibition spaces of the museum are filled with life-size stuffed mammals. There’s an unfriendly looking buffalo and the cutest wild horse. There is also a large amphitheater showing an 8-minute film subtitled in English. It includes footage from the very first visits to the cave when the divers somehow managed to haul a camera up the steep passageway.

And should you be wondering whether the replica is a true imitation of the original watery cavern, Henri Cosquer himself who still lives in the region, was permitted entry to the Villa for the first time when the work was almost complete.  He was moved to tears by all that he saw.

www.grotte-cosquer.com

Juliana Cantin is a Franco-British Communications professional living in Paris. She worked for many years at the British Embassy and now advises companies on strategies to build up their image and reach new audiences in France. She also writes, conducts interviews and creates podcasts. Clients include the Parisian bookshop Smith&Son, the Franco-British brasserie l’Entente and the professional association, Women In Leadership. She can be contacted at: juliana.cantin (at) gmail.com

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The South of France. La Côte d’Azur. The French Riviera. For many people these names are indelibly linked to the bright, glittering, bustling cities that have made the region so famous and popular with tourists from all over the world. Cities like Saint-Tropez, Cannes, Antibes and Nice are well-known as havens and playgrounds. But they are not just for the rich and famous. Anyone with a desire to relax, unwind and bask in the warmth of the sublime Mediterranean sunshine will love this sunny part of France too.

If you have a limited amount of time to spend in this area these cities have a lot to offer. There are world-class museums and extraordinary gardens. Glorious beaches and much, much more. But, once you’ve watched the yachts coming and going from Saint-Tropez or wandered aimlessly down the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, you may be looking for more to do and see in this part of France.

I’ve been visiting this corner of the country for almost fifty years now. And I’ve had the great fortune to live here (in the town of Vence) since 2019. I’ve spent a lot of time traveling through and exploring the region. Still, I’m constantly amazed at the diversity and depth of this part of France. One of my favourite activities is to visit small towns and villages. They are strung out like jewels along the seaside or dot the mountains that spring up just behind the coastline.

Sanary-sur-Mer

Situated on the Mediterranean coast just west of Toulon (on the far western edge of what we usually consider the Côte d’Azur) lies Sanary-sur-Mer. With a population of around 16,000, the village has managed to maintain its small town authenticity, character and charm. This despite being a favourite resort destination for travellers and tourists from all over France and, indeed, the rest of the world. The port is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful in France.

The small fishing village that we know today took shape early in the 16th century. Then the port was a major trading centre with the Dutch. In the 1930s Sanary-sur-Mer became a place of exile and sanctuary for many German and Austrian intellectuals and artists after they fled the Nazi takeover of their homelands. Thomas Mann, Aldus Huxley, Bertolt Brecht and Jacque Cousteau are just a few of those who lived here during those troubled times.

Alongside the port you’ll find a selection of “Heritage Vessels” or “Pointus.” These small Mediterranean fishing boats are over 100 years old. Three of them have even been classified as Historical Monuments. The Tower of Sanary sits at the west end of the port and a climb up to the top provides a lovely panoramic view of the village, the port and the coastline. A small museum is also housed inside the tower and entrance is free.

Best market in France…

The Saint Nazaire Church features a tall steeple. It’s one of the trademark features of the village. Completed in 1892 it features a huge collection of liturgical frescoes of Orthodox Christian inspiration which cover almost every available wall and ceiling. From here you can follow a Stations of the Cross trail up to the Chapelle de la Miséricorde. A large array of shops, boutiques, restaurants, bars and cafes line the streets. The Wednesday market is huge. Several years ago it was voted the “Best Market in France” via a very popular television competition. Best markets in France

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie

One of the official “Most Beautiful Villages of France,” Moustiers-Sainte-Marie lies about two hours north of Saint-Tropez on the edge of the Gorges du Verdon. Nestled at the foot of huge rocky cliffs the village is surrounded by stunning lavender fields. It’s blessed with over 300 days of sunshine each year.

The main streets of the village run parallel to the small river that runs straight through the middle of the town. Most of the village is pedestrian access. Well preserved, immaculately restored and meticulously maintained, it is a real delight to wander through. Unlike many mountain villages where space is scarce and the streets are dark and narrow, here the streets are wide and full of light, sunshine and greenery. Several squares connect the various portions of the town and there are flowers, plants and trees everywhere.

The Parish Church was built between the 12th and 14th centuries and is a mix of both Romanesque and Gothic styles. By far the most popular landmark in the village is Notre-Dame-de-Beauvoir Chapel. It’s located high up on one of the cliffs that tower above the houses and shops. It takes about twenty minutes to make the walk up the 262 steps of the stone path from the village. But it is absolutely worth it. You’ll get some great views of the town and the valley from the path and from the chapel.

Biot

Known today as “The City of Crafts,” the charming little village of Biot has a long history of craftsmanship and artistry. The village is full of master glassmakers, jewellers, leatherworkers, painters, ironworkers, artists and much more. Centuries ago it was known around the world for its pottery, specifically the “Biot Jars.” Only three kilometres from the sea, Biot is just a few minutes’ drive from Cannes, Antibes or Cagnes-sur-Mer. It’s perched high on a hill behind the coast, fortified with a series of ramparts. In 1209, Biot was donated by the Count of Provence to the Knights Templar. When the Templars were abolished in 1307 the territory fell under the rule of the Knights of Malta.

Since 1956, Biot has been known for its blown glass. The speciality of the village glassblowers is bubble glass. It was first brought to prominence by Éloi Monod, who then went on to train an entire generation of craftsmen. You can visit many authentic glassworks in Biot as well as galleries which display the work and shops which offer a wide selection of pieces to purchase.

The main street leads into the old part of the village is now the commercial centre. It’s populated with many restaurants, galleries, art workshops and boutiques. At the end of this commercial street you enter the “old village.” Arm yourself with the map from the Office de Tourisme to explore the many fascinating aspects of the village. You’ll find houses that date from 1561. There are two original “doors” to the village, an old washhouse, beautiful doorways and even an old sundial.

Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Less than five kilometres from my home in Vence lies the famous village of Saint-Paul-de Vence. I’ll admit that for many years I was unfair to this small historic village. I wanted nothing to do with it. Why? The first time I visited the village in the summer of 2012 I was overwhelmed with the crush of tourists. It was insanely crowded and all I wanted to do was get out of there as quickly as I could. Because Saint-Paul is so close to Nice, Antibes and even Cannes, tourists are bused in by the hundreds, if not thousands, each day during the high season. The trick is to visit the village when it is not crowded and then it can be a wonderful experience. Winter mornings are now my favourite time to go there.

With its immaculate narrow streets, beautiful houses, buildings and impressive ramparts Saint-Paul has an almost fairy-tale like quality. Early in the 20th century the village began to attract a wide range of famous artists and painters. They were drawn to the town by the location, the beauty of the well-preserved medieval village and especially the remarkable light of the region. Artists like Matisse, Chagall, Renoir and Modigliani became frequent visitors and residents. But it wasn’t just the painters. Writers, filmmakers and movie stars vacationed or lived in Saint-Paul. Bill Wyman, the bassist for the Rolling Stones, has lived in Saint-Paul since 1971. James Baldwin, the famous American writer, lived here for the last 17 years of his life.

St-Paul-de-Vence – a journey through time

Today, a walk through Saint-Paul is a journey through time. The main street through town, rue Grande, runs from the south end of the village to the north. It links the town’s two gates which at one time provided the only entrances into the village. As you begin to stroll down the narrow walkway of cobblestones you’ll find the art galleries, boutiques and shops that Saint-Paul is so famous for today. You’ll also see the beautiful and very well preserved facades, doorways and windows of numerous ancient buildings and houses, many of which date back to at least the 16th century. Bougainvillea plants and other vines grow wild all over the village. They creep along the stone surfaces of buildings and cover them with colour and vibrancy.

Steve Wilkison lives in Vence with his wife Carole whom he persuaded to leave America for a French adventure. They write about their life at steveandcaroleinvence.com

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Ménerbes is in the heart of the Luberon region, Provence. This sun-kissed little village perched atop a hill, is officially one of the prettiest in France. Discover its secrets and charms in our guide to Ménerbes…

What to see in Menerbes

Wander the narrow cobblestone lanes lined with 15th, 17th  and 18th-century weathered stone houses. In this little town you won’t be distracted by postcards and lavender sachets for sale. It’s not flashy but it is beautiful. Most tourists tend to stay in nearby Gordes and Roussillon so Ménerbes is an ideal spot for lunch and a peaceful stroll through a typical Provencal village. There are two bakeries in the village and a general store. Just enough to pick up some snacks for a light lunch that you can enjoy on a bench in the shade at the top of the village in front of the 16th-century church Saint Luc.

Ménerbes was once the home of Picasso and the writer Peter Mayle, who captured the quintessential charm of Provence in his novels. Surrounded by vineyards, cherry and olive orchards, Nostradamus called the village ‘ a ship in an ocean of vines.’

At the foot of the village are the beautiful ruins of Abbaye de Sainte-Hilaire, a 13th-16th century Carmelite monastery. It’s in an idyllyc location, very quiet and serene.

Wine fans will enjoy the quirky Tire-Bouchon museum. Yes, a whole museum devoted to corkscrews. Over 1250 in fact, they range from simple to X-rated. At the end, enjoy  a wine tasting session.

The Thursday morning market is small but full of local specialties , fruits, meats and cheeses. All the shopkeepers and stall holders are happy to have a chat with tourists to discuss their products, the area or any other topic!

The “Maison de la Truffe et du Vin” (wine and truffle institute) regularly stages truffle days which include truffle hunting with a grower and his dog. Indulge in aan ‘all truffle’ lunch followed by tasting of wines from the regional wine centre. It also stages a permanent exhibition on truffle growing.

What to see nearby

Roussillon, just 20 minutes by car, is the “Colorado” of southern France, a colourful village overlooking majestic ochre quarries and hills.

Just 5km from Ménerbes discover the pretty and exotic village of Oppede-le-Vieux

Bonnieux, a 15-minute drive, as seriously pretty town – with a bread-making museum!

I’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, the antiques capital of the south of France in a stunningly pretty little town (about 20km from Ménerbes

The ultimate guide to Provence

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My wife and I live part of the year in the charming town St-Rémy-de-Provence, famous as the place where Vincent van Gogh painted masterpieces like The Starry Night. Friends who visit us often ask for advice on touring the area, and it has happened so often that I finally wrote a book, An Insider’s Guide to Provence. Here are a few suggestions to get you started.

Slow Down

Some vacations are for seeing the sights. Who can visit Paris without gawking at the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Versailles, and all the rest? When you go to a place like that, you rush around a lot, and that’s ok. But that’s not how you should visit Provence.

Sure, there are must-see sights in Provence, but what makes it special is the ambiance, the slow pace, the pleasure of small things. In Provence, start your day with a leisurely coffee and croissant at the local café. Then go to an outdoor market and poke around, tasting here and sampling there. Or perhaps spend the day in a charming little village, lingering over lunch and having that extra glass of wine.

I like to say that Provence moves at the pace of the seasons rather than the speed of the Internet. Things often take longer than planned, and a day with several activities rarely happens.  So, minimize your expectations and be open to the unexpected!

The Best Time to Visit

For the French, vacations are sacred, right up there with God and motherhood. And summer is vacation season, when many français head south in search of sun and sand. They’re not alone: people come to the South of France from all over the world.

Provence is glorious in the summer, with the lavender in bloom and the cigales chanting. And if you like hot weather, summertime is definitely for you. But I suggest coming during one of the shoulder seasons—in the spring from early April to mid-June, and in the fall from late August to early October. The weather is cooler then, there are fewer people, and prices are lower.

Pro tip: Summer is the busiest time in Provence, and the fall tourist season picks up in September. Because the French school year starts at the beginning of September, the French finish their summer vacations about a week earlier. This creates a quiet period during the last week of August, ideal for a visit.

The Outdoor Markets

Outdoor markets are one of the glories of France, and Provence has some of the best. Every town has a weekly market, even the smallest village, so you are spoiled for choice. Do you want a big, sprawling market, a cozy little one, or maybe an afternoon market where farmers bring their produce directly from the fields? Do you want food, crafts, clothing, or would you perhaps like to do some antique shopping? You can find everything you want in Provence. There’s nothing better than wandering through a Provençal market, taking in the sights and smells…and don’t forget to taste!

Prepare to Wait

 If you go to a shop frequented by the locals, don’t be in a rush. Everyone gets personal attention and takes as long as they want, which can sometimes be a long time.

In our butcher shop, for example, the butcher takes the time to chat with the local customers. How’s the family? How are your bunions? How will you prepare the stew?

Val and I once walked in and found two customers ahead of us. She turned to me and said, “Ok, this will take about 45 minutes.” This can sometimes be annoying, but on the other hand we’ve gotten great recipes and cooking advice, and once in a while some juicy local gossip.

Don’t Miss the Specialties

Every region of France has its special foods and Provence is no different. Here are some of my favorites.

Bouillabaisse

This classic fish stew originated in Marseille and now is famous all over the world. But you have to be careful when you make it, because it can explode.

Le Grand Aïoli

Aïoli is a garlicky mayonnaise and Le Grand Aïoli is a tempting spread of fish, hard boiled eggs, potatoes, and steamed vegetables, served with a generous dollop of aïoli.

Olives and Olive Oil

Provence is an important center of olive growing and you’ll see olive groves everywhere. Local olive oils have won several world championships.

The Spreads

With so many olives in Provence, every market offers olive-based spreads that are delicious on bread or crackers. Don’t miss tapenade (black or green olives with a bit of anchovy) and pistounade (green olives with pesto). If you are brave, you can try anchoïade (lots of anchovies, so this isn’t for everyone.)

Lamb

The best lamb in France comes from Provence and a favorite preparation is gigot d’agneau (leg of lamb), traditionally served at Easter but delicious all year round.

Socca

Socca is a kind of thin, crispy crêpe made out of chickpeas, sprinkled with salt and drizzled with olive oil. It’s the sort of thing you munch on while enjoying a glass of wine with friends.

Ratatouille

Originally from Nice, ratatouille combines some of the fresh produce that Provence is famous for, like tomato, eggplant, zucchini, garlic, and onion.

Melon de Cavaillon

There are lots of melons in France but the best and most famous come from the town of Cavaillon. The citizens of Cavaillon are so proud of them that they’ve erected a giant melon statue at the entrance to town!

Pastis

Ok, this isn’t for everyone, but if you like black licorice, you have to try pastis. It’s the ultimate Provençal drink, the one you see the old fellows drinking while they play pétanque.

Picnic French-Style

Provence is so beautiful that it practically begs you to go on a picnic (or as the French say, un pique-nique.) And with all the outdoor markets full of good things to eat, it’s easy to put together a memorable meal.

How do the locals like to picnic? They usually keep things simple, typically with just an aperitif, a main course, and dessert. And they never forget the holy trinity of French food: bread, cheese, and wine. Picnics can be as elaborate as you want, but sometimes simple is enough!

Keith Van Sickle splits his time between Provence and California. Read more at Life in Provence

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