Ouistreham in the apple-growing department of Calvados in Normandy, is steeped in history and has a jolly seaside air to it. It’s a great place to stroll with a long promenade, a fabulous fish market and a charming town.

Ouistreham’s Riva-Bella beach is a listed seaside resort known as the ‘ Pearl of the Côte de Nacre’ (mother of pearl). It has an air of yesteryear with its endless stretch of sandy beaches along the English Channel, beautiful Belle Epoque and Art Deco villas, little wooden bathing cabins and gently sloping beach.

A historic seaside town

Made popular by Parisians at the end of the 19^th century with the train journey taking just 6 hours, it took its name from the first beautiful villa built there. In 1866 a Monsieur Longpré built a house at no. 53 rue Pasteur, he called it Belle Rive. When his friend, a painter, came to stay, he found the sunsets on the coast were as beautiful as those he had seen on his travels in Italy and he nicknamed the villa ‘Riva Bella’.

Many more architecturally stunning houses were built here (if you play Sims World, you might spot a Ouistreham villa on the vacation home list!). It reminds me of its glamorous neighbour Deauville though Ouistreham is smaller, more tranquil and less celebrated. It does though, like Deauville, have a casino. It’s a great base if you’re visiting this area of Normandy as well as an ideal weekend getaway. It also makes for a great day out if you’re in nearby Caen.

What to see in Ouistreham

Ouistreham is a town made for strolling. Breathing in the fresh air, taking in the sights – it’s as invigorating as it’s interesting. The seaside walkway from Lion-sur-Mer to Hermanville-sur-Mer, follows the route of the Via Turonensi, part of the  Santiago de Compostela. The walk is lined with many lovely houses dating from the Second Empire – the regime of Napoleon III, whose legacy is also present in the canal he commissioned which connects Caen marina to Ouistreham.

There are fabulous views from Ouistreham Lighthouse if you climb the 171 granite steps to the top. Look out over Ouistreham’s bijou ferry port, and on a clear day you can see as far as Mont-Saint-Michel. You’ll also have panoramic views over the coastline and historic Sword Beach, the most easterly of the D-Day landing beaches and the only beach where French forces took part on 6 June 1944, led by Commando Philippe Kieffer.

Historic sites

Traces of the past can be seen in many places in and around Ouistreham. The famous Pegasus Bridge is just 10 minutes away by car. Memorials abound, including one in honour of Piper Bill Millin, the soldier who landed on Sword Beach playing the bagpipes. Le Grand Bunker, a former German command post is now a fascinating museum and listed historic monument.

The Musée du Debarquement no. 4 (No. 4 Commando Museum) preserves the memory of the 1st Battalion of Naval Fusiliers. It was set up by Commander Philippe Kieffer which, incorporated in the British No 4 Commando, was the only French unit to take part in the Normandy landings. The Hillman Site was one of the biggest German command posts during WWII. In the summer months, ‘Friends of the Suffolk Regiment’ Association are on site to tell stories of the past. It’s an engaging place to visit – especially for history lovers.

Tales of the past and markets

Take an audio guided tour called La Délicate – Ouistreham. It’s an unusual format – the guide is contained in an umbrella! The tour takes in the beaches and streets of Ouistreham. It tells the history of the town through stories and memories of those who lived here. Or take a ride! There are several cycle routes along the canal to Caen, including the route of the Vélo Francette which begins in La Rochelle and ends in Ouistreham.

A daily fish market is held in Ouistreham. Friendly stall holders pile up the days haul including the most delicious scallops – which this area is famous for. Enjoy the freshest fish dishes in the many restaurants and brasseries, washed down with local cider. And polish it off with ice cream and locally made salted caramel. Try La Table d’Hotes  where Chef Yoann serves creative, seasonal dishes. Or  push the boat out at La Voile Blanche overlooking the sea.

This is also a great area for nature lovers. To the east of Ouistreham Riva-Bella, is the Pointe du Siege and Orne estuary, the largest nature area in Calvados. Dunes, marshes, salt meadows and forests are home to many wild birds and seals.

Info: Tourist office website

How to get there: Caen ferry port is in Ouistreham (15km from Caen) and ferries run from/to Portsmouth. The nearest train station is Caen and buses run regularly between the two towns.

The post What to see and do in Ouistreham Normandy appeared first on The Good Life France.

Travel writer and Nice resident Jeanne Oliver has been writing about France for 25 years and her expertise and knowledge of Nice help the reader discover the city like a local.

The 218 info-packed pages are fitted into a light and compact format. Easy to carry around for the day! Or download on your Kindle. Maps and step-by-step instructions make getting around a breeze.

EXPLORE:

The Old Town, the vibrant heart of Nice with its crooked streets, cosy squares, baroque churches, bustling markets and jumble of pastel houses;

Castle Hill, a scenic park overlooking the sea with reminders of Nice’s earliest settlement and the final resting place of Nice notables;

Port Lympia with stately 18th-century buildings around a harbor;

Cimiez, the hilltop neighborhood where gladiators fought, Romans bathed, the Franciscans built a monastery and Queen Victoria held court;

Promenade des Anglais, the seaside walk lined with elegant hotels reflecting the British influence on Nice;

West Nice, the little-known neighborhood that was once a country outpost and aristocratic hideaway;

Promenade du Paillon a lush, watery landscape built over the Paillon river;

Quartier des Musiciens with landmark Belle Epoque and Art Deco masterpieces.

And discover Nice’s UNESCO-listed treasures.

Written by an insider, the walking tours include the local lore, legends and traditions that make up Nice’s unique culture. Learn about the food, festivals, saints and sinners that locals talk about.

Well-written and just bursting with facts and details that make the history and legends of the city come to life. I’ve visited the city several times, but not with this guide. Reading this makes me want to go back and visit again – but this time with all these fascinating details to hand, so I can discover the hidden gems I clearly missed last time! Clear directions, useful maps and fascinating anecdotes galore. Nice is a city that’s just perfect for wandering and whether you’re a first time visitor, or like me you’ve visited before, this is the essential guide to the sunny city.

Nice Uncovered: Walks Through the Secret Heart of a Historic City is available on Amazon.

The post Review: Nice Uncovered appeared first on The Good Life France.

I spend several weeks per year travelling round France and I’m often asked what are my favourite travel items.

So without further ado, here are my must-haves:

Suitcase

A good suitcase is essential. I I go everywhere by train or on foot so I have to have a suitcase that’s not heavy and not a drag to drag. I use Level 8’s carry on case with a side pocket for iPads and laptops (which is lockable). Many of my travel writer friends recommended Level 8 as they’re not expensive but have a great selection. My case is medium size and I can easily get enough in there for 5 days of travel. It’s super easy to pull, (my old suitcase was nothing like this, the Level* case is practically driverless!). The case has lots of compartments – but it’s the laptop pocket that really does it for me. When I’m travelling I like to take my iPad for working on and normally I have to carry it in my bag with my camera, or I have to put it inside my suitcase which is a real faff to get out when you’re travelling or on a train. I also put my kindle in there, note pads and spare charger. The side pocket is brilliant – it’s secure and easy to get to. I’m hooked on this suitcase. level8cases.com

Camera

Well in the old days I’d carry a Cannon and different lenses. But now I pretty much only use an iPhone (13) unless I’m taking photos for a glossy magazine – they sometimes insist on a camera not a phone camera. Then I’m back to my trusty Cannon (and sometimes a Lumix).

I recommend a phone cage which makes it easy to hold the phone, take videos, and is added security against dropping your phone. Also it’s really easy to hold tight which is additional security. I also use a lightweight tripod, and a button clicker for night photos (they’re really cheap but really help to improve night time photos as they eliminate shake). And I carry a camera light, a lightweight light box with changeable filters – great for food photos (and dark alleys!).

Camera bag

I use a very old DLSR camera bag for everything – phone, purse etc. Because it has side compartments I can squirrel things away and they are very light. I love the leather and canvas camera bags but when you’re travelling or walking a lot – lightweight is best. It’s a shoulder sling bag so I have it in front of me. It’s easy to access everything, and made of water proof material. I’m not keen on backpack camera bags as I like to be able to reach in as and when I like and not keep taking the bag off.

Charger and plug adaptor

I take a universal plug adaptor everywhere. You simply push a button and pull out the plug fittings that are right for wherever you are (UK, EU, US Aus) and it has 2 USB ports. I can use it on the train and everywhere I go. Charges up my phone, cameras and Kindle (I love paper books but when I’m travelling a Kindle is lightweight). I carry two chargers, I dread my phone running down! Both are lightweight.

I’m not being paid for this, it’s not a sponsored post, just sharing some of my favourite things because I get asked a lot.

The post Top travel accessories tips from cases to cameras appeared first on The Good Life France.

Think of Nice and images of the glistening Mediterranean bordering the iconic Promenade des Anglais swim into view. Less well-known are the many sites and neighborhoods that achieved UNESCO World Heritage status in July 2021. According to UNESCO, Nice “reflects the development of a city devoted to winter tourism, making the most of its mild climate and its coastal situation, between sea and mountains.” Jeanne Oliver, author of Nice Uncovered: Walks Through the Secret Heart of a Historic City, explores the tourist heritage of Nice…

UNESCO-listed “Nice Winter Resort Town of the Riviera”

Tourism has defined the development of Nice for well over 200 years. And it’s this that has seen UNESCO recognise the “Outstanding Universal Value” of Nice’s heritage in terms of architecture, landscape and urban planning, and an area of 522 hectares shaped by the cosmopolitan winter resort which has resulted in a spectacular fusion of international cultural influences.

The first tourist was arguably Scotsman Tobias Smollett who praised Nice in his bestseller Travels Through France and Italy published in 1766. His British readers were intrigued and began visiting Nice in the late 18^th century. They first settled on the land west of Cours Saleya, which opened for development after the town walls were destroyed in 1706. Rue François de Paule was considered chic even before the Opera was built in the late 19^th century.

By the beginning of the 19th century the trickle of British visitors turned into a steady stream. They fanned out to what is now the Carré d’Or and clustered in a community around the Croix de Marbre. Stores selling products from home sprouted up in the neighborhood they called “Newborough”.

How Nice developed due to tourists

These early Brits avoided the crowded, dirty streets of the Old Town but they liked to stroll the rue des Ponchettes which bordered the square Cours Saleya which was turned into a garden promenade. However, to access the walkways, they had to cross a bridge which spanned the Paillon river and then make their way through the Old Town. In 1822 the Reverend Lewis Way of Nice’s new Anglican Church raised money to construct a path along the sea, easily accessible from their neighborhood. The path, Chemin des Anglais, was completed in 1824. It reached from the western banks of the Paillon river to rue Meyerbeer. Over the course of the 19^th century, it was extended west and eventually became the Promenade des Anglais.

A stroll west along the Promenade reveals spectacular examples of Belle Epoque architecture. The Villa Masséna, now the Masséna Museum, is a fine example of a private villa on the Promenade, while the Hotel Negresco heads a procession of elegant 19^th century hotels.

Nice’s 19th-century rulers, the Dukes of Savoy, quickly recognized the potential of the “distinguished foreign visitors” which included Russians, Germans, and Americans. From the mid-19th century onward, every urbanization decision taken was aimed at increasing the comfort and enjoyment of holidaymakers. Foreign tourists liked exotic vegetation? Let’s plant the Promenade des Anglais with palm trees! Foreign tourists liked gardens? The Jardin Albert 1er became a 19th-century seaside park, while the ruins of the old Colline du Chateau became a hilltop park with sea views.

Architectural style

The opening of the Nice train station in 1864 shortly after Nice became part of France in 1860, sparked the development of the Quartier des Musiciens. Boulevard Victor Hugo was the first street to be laid out and the rest followed in a grid pattern. Fabulous Belle Epoque residences such as the Palais Baréty were followed by a new style, Art Deco, in the interwar period.

The verdant hill of Cimiez already had a few Belle Epoque hotels even before Queen Victoria chose the Excelsior Regina Hotel as her preferred holiday spot in 1895. Within a decade the entire neighborhood was transformed from farmland to a playground for European nobility. The stately apartment buildings now lining the Boulevard de Cimiez were designed as hotels and followed contemporary tastes. When Orientalism came into vogue at the turn of the 20th century, minarets were chosen to adorn the Hotel Alhambra.

Another neighborhood favored by 19th-century Brits was Mont Boron, the hill between Nice and Villefranche-sur-Mer. In 1891 they founded the l’Association Des Amis Des Arbres to protect trees and wooded areas against over-development. The Chateau de l’Anglais, built by Colonel Robert Smith was inspired by his tour of duty in India and brings a touch of exoticism to this forested hill.

Just as the British aristocracy congregated in Cimiez and Mont Boron, the Russian aristocracy followed Tsar Alexander II to the Piol neighborhood after he wintered there in 1864. The Russian Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, consecrated in 1912, testifies to the long Russian presence in Nice.

A world famous heritage site

The only part of the more than 500-hectare UNESCO-protected area that had little to do with tourism development is Port Lympia. It was vital to Nice’s export trade however and most of it does date from the late 19th-century.

Nice’s World Heritage designated area covers almost all the city’s highlights except for one surprising omission. The winding streets of Vieux Nice north of Cours Saleya are not UNESCO listed. Most of the baroque churches and pastel buildings date from the 18th century and thus are before Nice’s development as a tourist destination.

Jeanne Oliver is a travel writer who lives in Nice. She is the author of Nice Uncovered: Walks through the Secret Heart of a Historic City. Find out more at jeanneoliver.net

The post The UNESCO-listed Treasures of Nice appeared first on The Good Life France.

Explore three contrasting coastal communities near Nice. Take it easy in Eze, enjoy laidback Villefranche-sur-Mer and chill in Cap-Ferrat – three truly pretty villages of the French Riviera..

Stand amongst the cacti and exotic blooms of Les Jardins d’Eze and you’re treated to one of the most glorious views on the French Riviera. From this hilltop garden high above the Mediterranean, I’m looking westward over the stone walls and terracotta roofs of medieval Eze towards Nice. On a sparkling morning like this, breath-taking doesn’t even come close. And with 300 sunshine days a year, it’s a view that can be enjoyed all year round.

Villas tumble down the steep hillside in front of me and beyond a wooded headland. The slim peninsula of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat marks the eastern boundary of Villefranche Bay, the pretty resort tantalisingly hidden from view. The city of Nice is out of sight too behind the southern tip of the Alpes Maritimes. But its coastal airport is clearly visible in the far distance, a reminder that UNESCO’s ‘Winter Resort of the Riviera’ is only a bus ride away.

Take a city break in Nice and it’s easy to spend your time exploring the quaint streets of Vieux Nice, the Baroque churches, tempting boutiques and eclectic mix of museums. But the Greater Nice area includes a huge variety of picturesque locations from the mountain villages of the Mercantour to a clutch of coastal communities that lie east of the city. A stunning combination that just begs to be explored.

Take it easy in Eze

Classified as an elite ‘Jardin Remarquable’, the Exotic Garden of Eze features succulent plants from arid areas across the globe. The cacti, aloes and agaves sit besides sculptures in terracotta and bronze. This magical plot stands at the highest point of the medieval village, 1400 feet above the modern town centre at sea level. Today, the steep streets of the showpiece medieval village are beautifully maintained and manicured. This is a popular place with cruise ship passengers.  And there is atmospheric accommodation that includes three  5-star hotels.

For a special occasion, treat yourself to a meal at La Chèvre d’Or restaurant with its two coveted Michelin stars. But it’s still easy to feel the atmosphere of ancient stones in Eze, especially if you can visit early or late in the day, or in low season. There’s a real sense of time gone by as you pass beneath medieval gateways. Walk beside walls that date back to the Bronze Age.  And contemplate the Riquier Mansion, home to the powerful Lords of Eze from the 12^th to 15^th centuries.

It’s also easy just to soak up the view over a refreshing glass on a café terrace. But to see a different side of the village, take one of the marked hiking routes along winding paths fringed with bougainvillea and jasmine. There’s plenty of Riviera fragrance to be had too on a free tour and workshop at Parfumerie Gallimard and at the Fragonard factory. Plus a wealth of small craft boutiques for that special present to give away, or even keep yourself.

Laidback in Villefranche

With its sheltered harbour and calm waters, Villefranche-sur-Mer is one of the major cruise ports of the Côte d’Azur, despite numbering just 5,000 residents. In the 13^th century, local people preferred to live in the hills away from the threat of pirates. So in 1295, Charles Duke of Anjou and Count of Provence, established a ‘free port’ – ville franche. It offered various tax privileges in a bid to persuade them to relocate to sea level, concessions that largely remained until the 18^th century.

Today the pretty fishing port is also home to a flotilla of yachts and traditional fishing boats known as pointus. Yet Villefranche still manages to retain an air of laidback loveliness with its seafront cafes, colourful facades and quaint 16^th century back streets. It’s hard not to smile in a place where every narrow street has houses painted in a palette of lemon and apricot, russet and terracotta. And I loved the stylish, upbeat feel of the baroque bell towers, painted shutters, and wrought-iron balconies overlooking the harbour.

Cultural and delicious

Even my lunch at Le Cosmo bar was ablaze with Mediterranean atmosphere. Fresh white fish, scarlet tomato salsa, bright green rocket, and a wedge of lemon, all presented with a swirl of balsamic vinegar on a speckled blue and white plate. Just add a glass of chilled local rosé and some crisp baguette for the perfect light lunch. I even had a front row view of the 16^th century Chapel of Saint-Pierre. It was used as a storeroom for fishermen until artist Jean Cocteau restored it in 1957. He adorned the interior with murals of St Peter and local fishermen.

Stroll through the citadel built in 1554, eleven years after the town was burned to the ground following the siege of Nice by combined French and Ottoman forces. With sweeping views over the harbour, it served as a military base after Nice and Savoie became part of France in 1860. It was bought by the city council in 1965 and transformed into a City Hall and cultural centre.

Chilled in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

If I had money – lots of money – a holiday home in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat would be high on my wish list. This slim peninsula between Villefranche-sur-Mer to the west and neighbouring Beaulieu-sur-Mer fans out into a wooded Y-shape where luxury homes nestle discreetly in the pine trees behind high fences.

But there appears to be no envy on the part of less well-off residents. They insist that the wealthy don’t flash their cash here unless it is to support local businesses, albeit on the way to their luxury yachts in the harbour. But compared to many wealthy enclaves around the Mediterranean, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is amongst the most discreet.

This once small fishing village flourished as a resort in the Belle Epoque era. The first luxury hotel opened in 1904 – now the Hotel Royal-Riviera. In the 1950s, it attracted artists like Jean Cocteau and Henri Matisse, as well as movie stars such as Roger Moore and Elizabeth Taylor, Charlie Chaplin and Tony Curtis. Today you can still spot famous faces sipping coffee by the quayside.

My tip is to follow one of the marked trails with a free leaflet from the Tourist Office. Explore the village centre and the hidden beaches and monuments around the headlands. You could even walk the 9km-trail to Nice and catch a No 15 bus back.

Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

But don’t leave without visiting the outstanding Villa and Gardens of Ephrussi de Rothschild. Another Jardin Remarquable as well as a Monument Historique. This extraordinary property with sea views on both sides offers nine themed gardens, musical fountains, and an opulent interior, plus the irresistible story of the extraordinary Béatrice de Rothschild who created it. Well, maybe not all local residents have been low key, but she did leave something for us all to enjoy!

Getting Around

Catch a train from Nice to the seafront station at Villefranche, or hop off the Nice Grand Tour sightseeing bus. Eze is also accessible by train – sea level station beneath the medieval village – or by public bus from Nice (Line 82) or by train. www.nicetourisme.com

The French Riviera Pass gives free access to a wide range of attractions and activities in Nice, as well as Villefranche, Eze and Cap-Ferrat. Choose from 12, 48 or 72 hours (www.frenchrivierapass.com).

Alternatively, do as I did and take a bespoke tour by car with Villefranche resident Sandra Ottaviani. Particularly good if time is short or you are travelling in a small group. (www.inspiring-cotedazur.com).

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

Discover the hidden gem villages of the French Riviera

Antibes – jewel of the French Riviera

Flavours of the French Riviera

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Is it the gorgeous and colourful historic buildings? Or the many museums and galleries, the fabulous markets, the Cours Mirabeau with its fountains, the pretty squares and plane tree-lined avenues? Maybe it’s the 300 days of sunshine? Or perhaps the  700 restaurants in an always bustling but not busy city surrounded by glorious countryside and vineyards? Aix (pronounced ‘X’) is a bit like a mini-Paris where the sun always shines. Our guide to Aix-en-Provence reveals its many charms…

What to do and see in Aix-en-Provence

You’d be forgiven for thinking that in Aix all roads lead to the Cours Mirabeau and that life revolves around the hustle and bustle of this wide boulevard – it does. Once a toll road and a place for aristocrats and the rich to see and be seen, it now splits the inner city in two. The old town is on one side and the ‘newer’ 17^th century Mazarin district on the other. There are restaurants, bars, galleries and shops galore. And on summer nights and Saturday mornings, market stalls are set up and the Cours teems with shoppers. It’s also home to a mossy fountain named unsurprisingly, Fontaine Mossue. Fed by thermal springs (the Romans built baths in Aix) and on cold days steam swirls above its stone bowl.

Sitting at a café with a glass of local rosé, enjoying a three hour dinner and watching the world go by on the Cours is one of life’s great pleasures. Paul Cezanne, Edith Piaf, Pablo Picasso, Jean Paul Sartre and many more have done just this. But don’t sit there too long, there’s a lot to see in Aix.

The old district

You’ll find a warren of cobbled streets, elegant squares and magnificent ancient buildings in the old district. There’s a lively daily market in Place Richelme. Shaded by ancient plane trees, lined with cafés whose chairs and tables spill into the square, and stalls peddling local produce such as lavender, bread, cheese, mountains of the freshest vegetables, great tubs of sunflowers and curtains of garlic – it’s glorious.

In neighbouring Place de l’Hotel de Ville you’ll find a Saturday morning flower market. It’s watched over by a 15^th century astronomical clock featuring characters representing the four seasons. Locals say one year Autumn lasted 4 months when someone forgot to turn the key!

In a city that is nicknamed ‘town of 1000 fountains’, elegant Place d’Albertas stands out for its truly beautiful baroque buildings and central fountain. You can walk your socks off in Aix and never be bored.

The Mazarin District

The Mazarin District is named after the Archbishop of Aix, Michel Mazarin, brother of Cardinal Mazarin, chief minister to Louis XIV. He commissioned the extension of the city’s boundaries in the 1600s. The buildings from this time are luxurious and majestic. Elsewhere there are traces of older buildings where you can spot ancient carvings above doors, religious statues on corners and the Maltese cross carved in walls.

Cezanne in Aix

Aix’s most famous son is Paul Cezanne. Every morning at dawn, he would walk from his city apartment up the hill to his studio to paint. When he died in 1906, the studio was preserved and is now open to the public. The objects we see in his paintings are still there. They include the three skulls which are real, though no one knows who they are – anonymously immortalized. The statue of a cherub, the bottles and vases he loved to group together. His brushes and paints, his smock coat and hat. His Godin fire. You really do get the feeling the artist has popped out to wander in his gorgeous garden or to look at his beloved Mont Saint-Victoire, the subject of so many of his paintings. (atelier-cezanne.com)

You can find out more about Cezanne at the Caumont Art Centre. It’s a corker of a museum in an 18^th century mansion a stone’s throw from the Cours in the Mazarin District. Here they show a 20-minute film about the life of Cezanne. It’s surprisingly grown up and doesn’t sugar coat his story (neither modest nor particularly likeable by all accounts). The museum has a super exhibition of sculptures and paintings including by several great names such as Monet, Van Gogh, Degas and many more outstanding artists and stunningly preserved rooms.

Don’t miss the ground floor café (you don’t need a ticket to enter). It is gorgeous with glorious salons which feel as though nothing has changed in the last 300 years. There’s also a beautiful shady garden. This is one of the best kept secrets of the locals who love to pop in for a coffee, glass of wine, lunch or fabulous cake.

Arty Aix

Two notable museums in the Mazarin District are Musée Granet which has a superb collection of artworks including ten Cezanne paintings, and it’s second part – Granet XXe in a former 17^th century chapel

Fondation Vasarely exhibits the optical illusion art of Hungarian-French artist Victor Vasarely. He chose Aix to showcase his art due to his admiration for Cezanne. Vasarely’s work is big, bold and incredible.

Eat out in Aix

Feast on oysters fresh from the coast in Marseille, just 30 km awa. Nibble on lavender infused goats cheese. Enjoy delicious salads flavoured with local olive oil and tapenade. And sigh over sweet almond Calisons, a local speciality legend claims were invented for Queen Jeanne, the wife of Good King René in 1457, said to be the shape of her eyes!

The king of calisson makers in Aix is the Le Roy René. They’ve been making them for more than 100 years. Their calisson gift boxes feature La Rotonde, a landmark fountain in Aix. You can visit their fabulous museum and confectionary where they make calissons in every flavour from natural – almond and melon to lavender, chocolate and pistachio.

The Fromagerie du Passage tucked away down a secret passage at No. 55 Cours Mirabeau. Head to the terrace bar for a cool breeze on a hot night. With a perfectly chilled glass of something delicious to wash down your plancha of tasty Corsican meats and some of the best cheeses you’ll ever try – delicious.

Chateau la Coste

And for a countryside treat, head to Chateau la Coste a dreamy vineyard with a hotel and 5 restaurants about 20 minutes’ drive from the city. It has three art galleries and an ever growing collection of art dotted around the vineyards including a monumental meditation bell created by Paul Matisse, son of Henri Matisse.

Book a tour: Aix has so many secret places and so much to discover. Book a tour at the tourist office by La Rotonde fountain. aixenprovencetourisme.com

How to get there: Trains from Paris take just 3 hours. The station is around 25 minutes’ drive from the city. You can take a bus for a few euros or taxi (expect to pay around 50 Euros).

Where to stay: Hotel Nègre Coste overlooking the Cours Mirabeau. It’s in the centre of the action but perfectly tranquil with comfy rooms, a spa, friendly staff and a lovely restaurant downstairs.

The post Guide to Aix-en-Provence appeared first on The Good Life France.

Perfect for a light lunch, or a conversation-starting brunch, cake salé is a Provençal classic raises glasses and eyebrows with equal ease. Who says you can’t have cake for breakfast?! This savoury cake recipe is easy to make and utterly scrumptious…

Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 45 minutes
Total Time: 1 hour
Yield: 10 Portions
Ingredients:

1 cup/200g All Purpose flour
4 large eggs
3/4 cup/180g cheese, grated; gruyere, Emmental, or other strong cheese (Comté also works well)
1/2 cup/125ml milk
1/4 cup/60ml olive oil
1/2 tbsp baking powder
pinch salt and pepper

Flavouring Ingredients

3/4 cup/180g lardons, or chopped ham, cooked and cooled
1/4 cup/60g of pitted green olives, sliced
1 tbsp dried chives, or 2 tbsp fresh chives

Method

Preheat the oven to 180˚C/350˚F and lightly grease a ‘loaf’ or similar sized tin.

Place the oil, milk and eggs in a bowl and mix thoroughly.

In a separate bowl, mix the flour and baking powder, salt and pepper. Once mixed, add the chives and the grated cheese, and mix again.

Next, add the cooked and cooled lardons, or chopped ham, and sliced olives to the flour mixture and combine so that everything is lightly coated in flour.

Finally, add the wet mixture to the dry, and combine thoroughly – being sure not to leave any pockets of flour.

Pour the mixture into the baking tin, and place into the preheated oven for 45 minutes or until the top is lightly browned, and coming away from the edges of the tin.

Remove from the oven when cooked, and leave in the tin for 10-15-minutes to set before removing, allowing a further 10-15-minutes before serving.

Serve at room temperature, with a little butter or flavoured spread. Alternatively, gently pan-fry and serve with a poached egg and grilled tomatoes for a tasty breakfast or brunch.

Kit Smyth is a retired chef with a passion for French cuisine. Originally from Australia, Kit is dedicated to exploring both old and new ingredients, techniques and styles, and developing recipes for home cooks, she also teaches these recipes online and in-person. Find out more at her website: TheBiteLine

The post Cake Salé – savoury cake recipe from Provence appeared first on The Good Life France.

Bonjour

I hope that all is well with you and yours and that you had a great Christmas.

First  – an enormous thank you from me for all your support and friendship this year – I am hugely grateful that you subscribe to my newsletter and for all your messages and for your likes, comments and shares on social media. I’m truly thankful to those of you who have read my magazine and shared it with your friends and family (and made it the number one English language magazine in the world about France), and to those who have read articles on the website and shared them or taken inspiration from them. And finally if you have bought one (or all!) of my books – a heartfelt, humble and enormous thank you.

Bread Man (he delivers the bread, croissants and cakes to my village, he’s not actually made of bread!) asked me to wish you a “‘appy new year.” Claudette my 90 year old neighbour and the wisest woman in the village asked me to share some words that mean much to her. Though she doesn’t have a mobile phone or a computer, she knows that I sometimes tell you about her and how she quotes great authors whose words have meaning for a particular occasion. During the years of restrictions and curfews she often quoted Victor Hugo: “Even the darkest night will end and the sun will rise.” I think many of us took comfort from her wisdom and those words.

For the end of this year she is turning to Hugo again: “There is nothing like a dream to create the future…”

As for me, I wish you a happy, healthy and joyous new year from France as I sit writing in my little pigsty office – may all your dreams come true.

Janine
Editor

ps Find me on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter every day…

Janine Marsh is Author of My Good Life in France: In Pursuit of the Rural Dream,  My Four Seasons in France: A Year of the Good Life and Toujours la France: Living the Dream in Rural France all available as ebook, print & audio, on Amazon everywhere & all good bookshops online.

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The post Happy New Year from rural France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Take a stroll through the villages of Alsace in search of the famous storks…

Eight AM. It was the first day of my multi-day walking journey along the wine route of Alsace. Anticipation filled my heart. One of the smallest regions of France, Alsace is big on wonders. There are many hilltop castles, tranquil forests, picture-book-pretty villages and restaurants that serve hearty Alsatian dishes paired with excellent local wines.

As I left the already bustling cobbled streets of Eguisheim behind, I lost myself in the vast vineyards that carpet the surrounding hills. Over the next few days walking from one village to the next, I would find myself devoid of human contact. But never so alone that I was completely without company. Silently gliding with the wind above me, I observed the distinct long red beaks and the black-tipped wings of the famed white storks as they accompanied me on most of my journey.

Storks of Alsace

Visit Alsace in spring or summer and you’ll spot giant nests on rooftops, roadside poles and church towers in almost every village, town and city. Alsace is home to storks which migrate each year from Africa to spend the warmer months in Europe. They seem to particularly like the region’s natural environment.

The storks are faithful, not only to their spouse, but to their dwelling. They return every year to the same nest after their laborious long distance journey. The male arrives first, ensuring the nest is of optimum condition before the female joins him. Their young inherit the migratory instinct and begin their own journey back south in autumn. Amazingly, when the parents make their own path back, they know exactly where to find their offspring.

Telling of times

These birds have become somewhat of an oracle of the time of the year for farming activities, much like the groundhog of America. Stork abundance signifies a good year to come. A lack of storks can mean some hardship in living conditions.

The locals are friendly to storks. Many of the nests are formed on top of iron cages put there specially for the storks to move in. Perhaps it isn’t all for the storks though. If a stork decides to nest on top of a house, it is believed that good fortune (or a baby, if you wish for it) will come to those who live in this house.

The obsession with storks doesn’t stop at encouraging nest-making. Throughout Alsace, storks feature as names of hotels and restaurants, mountain bike trails and walking tours. There’s even a theme park dedicated to storks.

Walking from village to village in the spring, the sight of majestic birds sitting on their nests looking graceful and proud, was a constant feature.

Bird of Peace

Alsace has had a long association with its storks, known as  störig in Alsatian, with a folktale dating back to 817. Louis the Pious, Emperor of the Carolingian Empire, wanted to divide his land among his three sons. Unfortunately, he was persuaded by his second wife to gift the full entitlement to her son only. This caused the other two sons to wage war against their father.

The peaceful storks saw the devastation and bloodshed that followed. And with blood staining their beaks and feet as they surveyed the land, decided to dip the tip of their wings in black and lose their voice in mourning. Storks have remained silent ever since.

Conservation of the white stork

Mute from birth, storks communicate by body language and clapping their beaks. A fact that I learned at the NaturOparC, a stork sanctuary and wildlife education centre in the village of Hunawihr.

In the 1970s, due to human expansion and loss of habitat, the stork population in Alsace hovered between extinction and survival. At one point there were less than ten breeding pairs sighted throughout the region. In 1983, a stork re-introduction programme was begun. One of the first repopulation centres was established in Cernay. Today, 30 stork couples are often seen flying around the town centre along the river looking for food.

Today, the region of Alsace is home to more than 600 couples.

NaturOparC was part of this successful program. It continues to provide a safe, open sanctuary for storks that come to nest in the treetops. Other than the storks undergoing medical treatment, the birds are free to come and go as they please, and the fact that so many stay is a sign that the environment is ideal for them.

Strategically built ladders and walkways allowed me to approach some of the nests at a safe distance (for the storks) and view them up close. Watching the storks relaxing in their nests, sleeping, preening, clapping their beaks – perhaps a couple in argument over whose turn it was to look after the baby – was a fairy tale moment, truly captivating.

The wine bringers

No visit to Alsace is complete without going to a few wine cellars for some tasting. And it is also of no surprise, that the storks have a beak in the wine business too.

“Oh, there are plenty of storks this year,” chuckled the bartender at the Bleger winery in Saint-Hippolyte, a town famous for Alsace’s only red wine, Pinot Noir. “When there are plenty of storks in spring, you know we are going to have a good harvest in autumn.”

Not only do the storks symbolise fertility, the Alsatian consider the storks to be the bringer of luck and wealth, and for the many winemakers of the region, they also bring a year of good harvest, meaning more wine for everyone.

You can visit NaturOparC in Hunawihr as part of the Inntravel self-guided walking itinerary in Alsace. For more information visit: www.inntravel.co.uk

Amy McPherson is a London based travel writer whose work has been featured in international publications. Cats, cycling and food features heavily in her writing and her blog at: www.footprintsandmemories.com

The post The Storks of Alsace appeared first on The Good Life France.

Stoke the fire and gather round the TV, popcorn et chocolat chaud at the ready. We’ve compiled our list of our favourite winter feel good films to watch and study French. We’ll start with our ‘winter warmer’ movies, before listing some Christmas classics to get you in the festive spirit!

Learning through film is one of the most effective ways to study a language. Not only will you learn ‘real’ French vocabulary in context, you’ll also have great fun as you immerse yourself in French culture.

Winter Warmers

Amélie – 2001

Amélie is one of French international cinema’s biggest successes. Following the death of Princess Diana, Amélie decides to help those around her by secretly orchestrating their lives. She soon realises she has been neglecting her own interests, and her quirky would-be lover in the process.

Populaire (Popular) – 2012

Rose applies to be a secretary at an insurance firm run by Louis. Louis soon discovers that Rose is an extremely fast typer, using only two fingers. He urges her to enter a speed typing competition if she wants the job, and soon he is training her to become the fastest typer in the world.

Les Émotifs anonymes (Romantics Anonymous) – 2010

Angélique, a master chocolatier, and chocolate factory owner Jean-René, are too shy to admit their love for each other. The film follows their awkward journey as their feelings develop for one another.

Intouchables (The Untouchables) – 2011

This comedy drama follows the story of a Parisian aristocrat and his live-in carer following a paragliding accident. A touching story about the bond formed between two men who would never have usually met!

Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis (Welcome to the Sticks) – 2008

Despite living a comfortable life in the picturesque Salon-de-Provence, Julie has been suffering from depression for a long time. To help his wife feel better, Julie’s postmaster husband plots a move for the family. Hilarious and heart-warming…

Christmas Classics

Le père Noël est une ordur (Santa Claus Is a Stinker) – 1982

Two workers at a suicide prevention hotline on Christmas eve get the shock of their lives as a pregnant woman, her abusive boyfriend and a friend visit their offices.

L’apprenti Père Noël (Santa’s Apprentice) – 2010

Although Santa doesn’t want to retire, rules dictate that he must find his successor! An animated Christmas classic, follow the story of a young, shy boy in Australia who could become Santa’s next apprentice.

Un conte de Noël (A Christmas Tale) – 2008

A French family is caught in deep Christmas friction as the matriarch Junon asks her children and grandchildren if they are eligible to become her bone marrow donor.

Are you studying French? Why not learn French through news online with Newsdle? With new lessons published daily from beginner to advanced levels, you can access through their website and app!

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