I am a hopeless Francophile, my husband joined me when we married 14 years ago. Any excuse within reason (and a decent airfare from Arizona) and we are on a plane headed to France, especially the Côte d’ Azur. The turquoise sea, rocky cliffs, dazzling sunshine, friendly people, incredible food and wine, it’s sheer bliss. It’s one of the easiest areas to navigate by foot, car or train (trains run frequently, are inexpensive and offer a view of the Med).

February—The perfect time to visit the south of France

While anytime is ideal to visit, (okay, maybe not August) if you must narrow it down, choose February. It’s usually mild with temperatures in the 50s or 60s, sunny, and less crowded, making it easier to get into that restaurant you’ve been eyeing (my husband appreciates that) or that cute shop (I appreciate that). The best reason to visit in February though, are the festivals: Carnaval de Nice and the Fête du Citron in Menton. Both festivals are delightful. The workmanship and detail that go into creating the floats and life size stationary displays will leave you speechless. With yearly themes, the festivals are always ‘new’ and fun.

After spending several days (and nights) alternating between Carnival and the Fête du Citron we are ready to spend a quiet day in Antibes visiting the flea market and wandering the old town and marina. Little did we know, Antibes has its own festival in February.

A fast train to Antibes

Fifteen minutes after boarding the train in Nice, we arrived in Antibes. By 8:30, I was maneuvering between the many market vendors searching for vintage linen while my husband was basking in the sun with a café. With a lighter wallet and several bags in hand, we walked toward the center of town where a large group of people were gathering. That’s when we noticed the sign, ‘Pain, Amour et Chocolat’ and that day was the first day of the festival for Valentine’s Day.

Bread, Love and Chocolate—with a name like that it has to be fun

Italian flags were flapping in the wind (which was a bit confusing since we were in France). Proud proprietors stood in front of their tents, their wares artfully displayed waiting for the crowd to arrive. I was anxious to meander but first the festival had to be officially opened with a ribbon cutting ceremony. After a short speech, the officials cut the tricolor ribbon and announced the festival was open to all.

The festival is free unlike the Carnaval de Nice and the Fête du Citron. It is designed to promote the best of Italian and French foods (bread, chocolate, meats, and sweets) as well as artisan crafts.There’s music, Italian with a French twist, food and wine tastings, and activities for the younger crowd. After sampling, we purchased pain and chocolat (along with cheese, meat and wine for an impromptu picnic). The amour, well, we provided that.

Philosopher Martin Buber once said, “All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.” We thought we were heading to Antibes to spend a quiet day, instead we stumbled upon a little bit of Italy in one of the most beautiful cities in the South of France.

Pain, Amour et Chocolat 2018 is February 14th to February 18th.  Hours: 10 – 19 (7 pm)

Barb Harmon is a freelance travel writer and hopeless Francophile. She and her husband are looking forward to living the good life in France (fingers crossed). She blogs at www.chasingthenextchapter.com

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In the summer months, many cities in France put on heaps of razzle dazzle with son et lumière shows. Castles, Cathedrals, ancient buildings, beautiful gardens and even small villages light up and show off with sound and light shows to wow.

The concept was invented by a French man, Paul Robert-Houdin, then curator of the magnificent Château de Chambord, Loire, France.  In the years since, the practice has spread around the world and in France it’s a hugely popular form of entertainment and often free.

Here are some of our favourite summer son et lumière France shows that we think you’ll love!

Son et Lumière Blois Chateau, Loire Valley

In the spectacular courtyard of this ancient chateau, the buildings are lit up to reveal the story of its dramatic past. Pop on your head phones and listen to tales of love, deception, murder and chivalry (available in English), it runs until late September. See website for details and tickets: www.chateaudeblois.fr

Read more about the magnificent Chateau de Blois

Son et Lumière Le Mans, Sarthe, Pays de Loire

Known as La Nuit des Chimères this free event sees the medieval quarter of Le Mans turn into a huge and magnificent light fest through July and August.  The cobbled streets and facades of historic monuments are transformed into projection screens when dusk falls and brings the city to life after dark.

www.nuitdeschimeres.com

Son et Lumière Orléans Cathedral, Normandy

This magnificent cathedral will show images of Joan of Arc, the “Maid of Orléans”.  Wonderfully colourful, the show will take place until September 16 at 11pm and 11.30 pm on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from July to August. Pop into the tourist office for more details.

Son et Lumière Palais des Papes, Avignon

A truly sumptuous show with 3D images that conjures up this enormous palace’s papal past before your eyes. Set in a UNESCO world heritage site that has an 800 year old history, this is one son et lumière show you won’t forget. From mid August to end September, available in English for specific performances.

Son et Lumière Rouen Cathedral, Normandy

A wonderful nightly sound and light show that illuminates the Cathedral of Rouen with a theme of either William the Conqueror (1066 and all that) or Joan of Arc, who was executed in the town. the video clip is from the 2014 show.

From early June to late September. See website for details: www.rouentourisme.com

Son et Lumière Amiens, Picardy 

Each summer, Amiens Cathedral is reborn with the colours of yesteryear, thanks to a projection of digital images that enables you to admire this masterpiece of Gothic art, a UNESCO world heritage site. Details: Somme-tourisme.com

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If you think that the treasures that can be found at a fabulous French flea market are an irresistible temptation – you’ll love the famous summer flea markets of Gascony…

Every year crowds of devotees and onlookers gather to search for a bargain, a rare item, a decorating idea or a souvenir. In the unspoiled area known as Gascony – there can only be one contender for best of the best – the Barcelone-du-Gers vide-grenier.

It’s top of the list of must-see flea markets and takes place the first Thursday in August. Most people will never have heard of it which is a good thing because it means more chance of finding something fabulous!

A secret antiquing treasure trove in Gascony

Sue Aran, a US expat and now a local of Gascony, specialises in finding and sharing the most authentic and sublime experiences in this spectacular region.

In August 2018, she’s running an antiquing extravaganza. It will last for four glorious days and takes in the 13th century Château des Brocanteurs, an antique treasure chest in the bastide of Lectoure. You’ll get to wander the vide-grenier in the old Roman village of Eauze, a unique and special place. And of course you’ll go to the Barcelone-du-Gers vide-grenier. Plus, you’ll get to take a privileged, private tour of a local chateau and see the bits that tourists don’t have access to.

It’s a brilliant French antiquing tour, and you’re bound to go home with more than memories as Sue will help you seek something special to keep forever and help you to get it home if you really have to have something that won’t fit in your case!

See the website for French Country Adventures for details: www.frenchcountryadventures

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It’s bonkers and brilliant! The 19th World Puppet Festival will be held in Charleville-Mézières, Ardennes, France this year from September 16-24. This isn’t a puppet festival like any other, held every two years, it’s been listed as one of the top 20 events in the world – and rightly so.

This fab fun factor festival is set to bring together puppet companies from all corners and every continent of the world. They will work their magic to transforms this quiet, historic town into a densely populated and highly atmospheric world capital for ‘Les Petits Comédiens’.

Only held every two years, in September, the carnival occasion has grown dramatically since its inception in 1961. It attracts not only the greatest puppet companies in the world, but also almost 170,000 spectators.

The event has developed to the point where more than 50 different venues across the town are now needed to help to host up to 250 performing companies. They’ll arrive from other parts of Europe, as well as from Brazil, Canada, Ivory Coast, India, Israel, Iran, Syria, Taiwan, Tunisia and the United States.  All in all, around 25 countries will be represented.

And while the town and its inhabitants give way to a mild sense of lunacy for the nine day Festival, it is just as important to recognise that the performers regard themselves as artists. The vast majority of the shows are aimed as much at adults as at children.

The ideal choice for the one of the biggest-ever gatherings of puppets in the world, Charleville-Mézières is a centre for marionettes and puppeteers. In fact it boasts an association with the art which stretches as far back as 1941.   There’s not only an International Puppet Institute, but also an Ecole Supérieure Nationale des Arts de la Marionnette, which now offers a three-year puppetry course to around 30 international students.  Special events will also be organised for the 30th anniversary of the school this year.

In 1991, the town unveiled what has become one of its most endearing tourist attractions, ‘The Grand Marionnettiste’ – The Great Puppeteer’s Clock.  Built into the façade of the Institut de la Marionette, every hour – from 10am to 9pm – it presents an episode from the legend of the Four Sons of Aymon…a heroic medieval saga linked to the geography and history of the Ardennes.

Full details of the Festival, its history, and the tradition of puppetry in the Ardennes are featured on the website www.festival-marionnette.com.

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Mimosa is a vibrant symbol of winter in the south of France and a sure sign that spring is on its way.

The bright yellow flower of this scented plant grows prolifically in southern France in the Var region where the Cote d’Azur and Provence meet. The route du Mimosa is 130km long and runs from Bormes les mimosa to the perfume capital Grasse and you’ll see it at its best from January to March.

British visitors introduced Mimosa to the French Riviera in the late 19^th century. The area was popular with those craving the sunshine of the Med and Victorians flocked to this area including Queen Victoria who spent several months at a time here. The plant loved the climate and the soil and mimosa growers proliferated. Used in the perfume industry (Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Guerlain are all fans) for its scent and in bouquets for its exquisite beauty and gorgeous colour.

Its other main use is in the fabulous Mimosa festivals that take place in the Riviera, heralding the arrival of spring. And, you’ll also find it in syrups and some locally produced specialities.

The Route du Mimosa – the best towns to visit

Bormes-les-Mimosa

One of the prettiest floral villages in France. This ancient town is home to 90 different species of mimosa and celebrates with an annual festival.

Mandelieu La Napoule

The principal area of mimosa production on the Riviera, famous for its annual mimosa festival. La Tarte Mimosée was created by François Raimbault, pastry chef at the Oasis de Mandelieu restaurant.

Grasse

Internationally famous for its place in the world’s perfume industry. The town boasts gorgeous architecture including a cathedral with artwork by leading painters including Rubens. The Perfume Museum reveals the part mimosa has played in the success of Grasse’s perfume industry.

Rayol Canadel

Take the staircase from the centre of the village down to the sea and enjoy the spectacular views over the mimosa forests.

Sainte-Maxime

Beautiful botanical gardens, elegant seaside resort and a laid back vibe make this town well worth a visit.  Local chocolatier Jean-Louis Vaissaud has created mimosa flavour chocolates to honour the famous flower.

Saint-Raphael

The reddish coloured volcanic rock contrasts stunningly with the yellow mimosa, a sight you’ll cherish. Famous chocolate maker of the area, Didier Carrie, has created a unique recipe called “Le Mimosa d’Agay”, a white truffle chocolate, flavoured with plant liquors and lemons, covered with mimosa powder. Yum.

Tanneron

Gardeners will love this place which has the largest concentration of mimosa in the whole of France, forests of mimosa glow in winter.

Pégomas

Mimosa, olive trees and vines grow in abundance here. While you’re here, try La mimosette, a brioche specialty from Pégomas, decorated with mimosa seeds and stuffed with a cream that remains the secret of the baker. It is only prepared during the mimosa festival.

www.visitvar.fr
www.cotedazurtourism

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The flea markets of France are well known, but the biggest and many say the best in Europe and one of the top flea markets in the world is the Braderie de Lille, northern France. This massive market takes place annually and lures crowds of treasure seekers and bargain hunters from around the globe. I braved the hordes to discover unique booty in the cobbled streets of Lille…

Lille is the fourth largest city in France and Vieux Lille is one of the prettiest – like a miniature Paris it is filed with ancient buildings and is a cultural hub as well as a foodie’s delight.

Lille Braderie – Enormous Flea Market

The flea market takes place during the first weekend of September, starting at 14.00 on Saturday and ending at 23.00 Sunday – non-stop! During this time the city swells with visitors – more than ten times the population and the streets are vibrant with happy, browsing bargain hunters in a carnival atmosphere.

10,000 sellers line the streets, more than 200km of stalls and 33 hours of non-stop flea market action.

The history of the Braderie has been lost over the centuries but legend has it that the fair dates back to the Middle Ages. Local servants were permitted to sell off whatever their masters threw out and pocket the extra cash.

From these humble beginnings the Lille Braderie has grown to be one of the biggest flea markets in the world.

Antiques, vintage, quirky curios, collectibles, retro, contemporary and plain old rubbish – there’s a huge range here – well with 10,000 sellers there would be wouldn’t there! Bargain away as much as you like – you’ll find there are determined sellers who won’t budge a cent, families who’ve emptied out the attic and will let their old treasures go for next to nothing just to clear it and monsieur and madame who will offer you a plastic cup of wine to ease the bargaining process.

Top Tips for visiting the Lille Braderie

The streets are pedestriansed, trains into town offer cheap tickets, huge car parks outside the city perimeter are set up for park and ride travel and the metro zips you round the city. However the best way to get around is on foot so you don’t miss something!

Pick up a map from the tourist office in the centre at Place Rihours and head off on your search of a prize or two… or more and if you’re the type to want to buy more, take a collapsible trolley with you. Not all the sellers will have bags (sacs in French) so take a few – or like me, take none and walk through the streets with a large plastic pig and make everyone smile!

If you’re into a bit of nocturnal bargaining, take a torch so you can see what you’re buying – and the best time to bag a bargain is Sunday night!

Take a break and take part in a legend

It’s de rigeur to eat the signature dish of the Braderie, steaming hot mussels and chips – moules-frites. Over the years a legend has been created – the restaurants and cafés who serve this ubiquitous dish of the north pile your empty mussel shells in the street outside. At the end of the weekend the biggest pile wins!

10 brilliant places to eat out in Lille – from a Champagne bar in a converted 17th century convent to the restaurant of a top chef finalist…
The second hand book market in Lille – absolutely beautiful and also a place to dance tango under the stars…
3 great reasons to go shopping in Lille – 4000 shops for a start!

Lille Tourist Office for more details

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A son et lumière masterpiece takes place each year at the incredible Palais des Papes, in Avignon, Provence, once the home of Popes. Throughout the summer as night falls and the hot air cools, the palace is festooned in a riot of colour as if daubed with a magic paintbrush. Music booms across the magnificent courtyard as the history of this incomparable palace is told in English and in French in the most exquisite festival of sound and light.

Palais des Papes

700 years ago, Avignon was home to immensely powerful, incredibly wealthy Popes, they created the “other Vatican” to appease the French King.  These break away Popes established what is arguably the greatest gothic palace ever built and during the years 1309-1377, seven successive popes lived there before the Papal court went back to Rome.

Their legacy is a magnificent building which covers a mind-boggling 2.6 acres, more than twice the size of a football pitch, and today it is a tourist magnet that leaves visitors stunned by its gothic beauty and sheer vastness. As you wander the winding, narrow streets of this Provencal town to have the Palace suddenly loom in front of you, the enormousness of it takes your breath away.

Most incredible son et lumière show

It’s at night in the summer though that the Palace of the Popes really comes into its own. When the past casts a rainbow of light in the present and the sumptuous son et lumière show bursts into life.

Les Luminessences d’Avignon as it’s known in French is a tour de force. A 360 degree show that lights up the walls and fills the Honour Courtyard of the palace with sumptuous colours as the history of the building is revealed. To experience the show is to feel as if you have been magically transported into a Disney film, you don’t just see and hear the story, you feel it. The effect of the cutting edge light show is incomparable, it’s like no other I’ve ever seen even in a land where the French are the masters of the son et lumière technique.

Giant figures portrayed on the walls, which seem to throb; the palette of colour is jewel-like. The 3D effect and fabulous high-resolution imagery leave you with the feeling you are a part of the story, as the Palace comes to life all around you.

The role of the UNESCO listed Palais des Popes has played a major part in European history and the story tells of its turbulent history… but it wouldn’t be fair of me to tell you all the story would it – you’ll have to go and see if for yourself. This is one event that really lives up to the hype and if you go to Avignon and miss the opportunity to enjoy this breath-taking show, you’ll really be missing out, in fact it’s worth going for this one thing alone.

Just check out the little video snippet below for a peek into just how awesome this festival of light and sound really is:

Les Luminessences d’Avignon Show Times

This extraordinary show takes place every night from August 10 – October 2 2016.

You can experience Les Luminessences d’Avignon in English at 22.15 Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
The French performance is at 21.15 every night and additionally at 22.15 Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays

Tickets are just 9-11 Euros and entry is free for children under 8.

Details: Les Luminessences d’Avignon

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Calais is to host the European debut of The Hidden Temple Show featuring a gigantic mechanical dragon-horse and a colossus of a spider in a mind-boggling, magical, free street show that will take place over four days in June 2016.

The incredible and huge machines have been created by the master of machine puppetry, François Delarozière of La Machine. His imaginative inventions have been thrilling crowds on the Island of the Machines in Nantes for quite some time and now Calais will see the dreamlike giants taking to its streets for a unique performance.

Staggeringly strange and wonderful Street Art

From 23-26 June, 2016 the ginormous dragon-horse known as Long-Ma and a huge spider known as Kumo will reign over Calais town.

Created by the legendary Francois Delarozière, the machines, operated by riders, will perform, breathing fire, fluttering their eyelids, walking and wowing everyone who sees them. Working with the Calais National Theatre, Le Channel, and its director Francis Peduzzi, an astonishing episode of truly matchless street theatre will come to life in Calais.

Just check out the video of the dragon-horse Long-Ma in action at the Olympic Park, Beijing, China, to get a flavour of exactly how dazzling the show is:

Long-Ma the Dragon-Horse

François Delarozière created this extraordinary machine in 2014 to commemorate 50 years of diplomatic relations between France and China. He took inspiration from the Chinese legend of the Goddess Nüwa, the creator of mankind. As the climate changes, she worries about the men she has made and sends her emissary, the spirit of the dragon-horse Long-Ma, to help them and fix the sky. However, a giant spider, instigator of chaos, crosses Long-Ma’s path and lays traps.

Long-Ma has fabulous fiery red eyes framed by lashes that open and stare as if the machine is really alive, aware. It moves slowly, majestically, its legs flexing, its head looking this way and that, its mouth breathes smoke and nostrils seem to flare. There is a feeling of life to the machine that’s really quite astounding. Operated by state of the art technology, it is a mesmerising, magnificent sight.

Kumo the Spider

Weighing in at a whopping 2 tons, Kumo, the spider, has a wingspan of 7.5 m and stands 4.5m high. It walks and waves its legs, brought to life by operators who sit atop the lofty arachnid, it is strangely life-like but without the fear factor.

Fantastical Family Fun

This is fun for the whole family and kids will love the enchantment and mystery of these breath-taking machine creatures right in front of their wide eyes. It’s not frightening, it is instead, a bit crazy, strangely organic and simply stunning; it is the stuff of dreams for old and young.

Details of this fabulous free show in Calais

Thursday 23 to Sunday 26 June 2016: see the animals walk the streets of Calais. Be amazed as smoke swirls from the fire-breathing Long-Ma’s nostrils and it “eats” from the tops of trees, galloping and walking and being the centre of attention. Where Long-Ma is, Kumo with its beady eyes is sure to follow, an awesome sight with its long legs unfurling and a lurid bulbous body.

Thursday 23 June, in the grand courtyard of Le Channel Theatre: see the machine beasts enjoying a sleep over. Here you’ll discover more of Delarozière’s work as he contributed to the architectural refurbishment of this sprawling complex of buildings.  Enjoy Le Channel’s cool bistro and groovy restaurant while you’re there

Friday 24 and Saturday 25: special night time performances with light show and music.

Sunday 26: The Final: a last goodbye to the Calaisians and visitors to the town.

You can expect to see the astonishing sight of the giant machines in the streets, the market place and everywhere that daily life takes place and I guarantee, people will stop in their tracks and stare in amazement. Think steampunk meets Godzilla on a local street corner and you can’t help gawping in awe. It’s the very ordinariness of the setting that adds an extraordinary and thrilling aspect to the show and it’s definitely one of the top things to do in Calais in 2016.

There are lots of great cafés and restaurants to take a break, museums, shops and even a golden sandy beach to enjoy a picnic if the sun shines. Nip to the tourist office to get lots of advice and details of what to see and do while you’re there.

Details, practical information: www.longma.calais.fr

More details: www.calais-cotedopale.com; lechannel.fr

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Update: Gérard Collomb, the Mayor of Lyon, has announced that, given the recent tragic events, the Fête des Lumières will not be able to take place in its usual manner – one of joy, poetry and celebration. Instead. the Fête des Lumières will be transformed into a vigil for the victims of the terrorist attacks in Paris, which will be held on the 8^th of December only. The people of Lyon will light up the city by placing candles in their windows.Two of Lyon’s landmark buildings – the Incity tower and the Part-Dieu tower (affectionately referred to as ‘Le crayon’ (the pencil) by locals) will be lit up to reflect the spirit of the candles.

The Festival of Lights is one of Lyon’s most famous festivals, it broadcasts Lyon’s heritage and creates an immense buzz throughout the city. 

www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr/

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The most spectacular art gallery opening in the world – Lille3000 Renaissance: On Saturday 26 September, 2015, the sun shone on the city of Lille in northern France, the sky was blue, the old city, Vieux Lille, was as gorgeous as ever with its 17^th century Flemish buildings with their distinctive gables and beautiful decorations.

It wasn’t like any other Saturday though, this day was the start of Lille3000, 2015. Lille3000 is the name given to an incredible art festival that’s held every three years in Lille. In 2004, the city became the European Capital of Culture. The cultural and artistic celebrations reinvigorated the town and its people so much that they decided they wanted to carry on growing culturally and honouring art in all its forms. In fact they wanted to carry on until the year 3000 they said – so Lille3000 was born!

In 2015, the theme of Lille3000, which now takes place every three years, is Renaissance, not in a historical sense but in the spiritual sense. This enabled the organisers of Lille3000 to invite five cities to join them on their quest to present the spirit of rebirth which has resulted in the most amazing presentation of art that takes place in all 77 districts of Lille, in the streets, in the museums (and there are many!) and in public buildings.

It all kicked off though with a parade through the city centre. Throughout the day strange and wonderful sculptures could be seen appearing on the bridge by the Gare de Lille. Huge heads which are used in the legendary Rio Carnival welcomed visitors to Lille as they arrived in the town by train! The first time these heads have visited Europe, they started to give an indication of what was to come.

More sculptures appeared, late in the afternoon a giant Godzilla inflatable popped its head over Le Corbusier Bridge (top). Groups of people started to congregate dressed in costume, musicians roamed the streets. 2000 of Lille’s inhabitants had dance or music lessons so that they could participate in the parade. Band stands were set up, huge cameras were erected, TV crews appeared, and an air of expectancy started to build.

As night fell, 300,000 people gathered on the streets and in the squares of Lille to hail the parade with its dancers from Brazil, dancers from Lille, amazing floats, acrobats and of course the giant Godzilla!

As I stood opposite the Voix du Nord newspaper building which had been painted with an incredible mural, one of the many works of art on the streets of the town, my feet started to vibrate as the hundreds of drums beat along the route, the effect pulsing through the cobblestone pavements and the Grand Place. The sky was alive with laser lights leading the way for the dancers; glittery, shiny, coloured confetti dropped from the sky…

Godzilla loomed over the column of the Goddess on Grand Place and appeared to kiss the incredible twirling acrobats who thrilled the crowds on their bendy ladders high over our heads…

The beautiful buildings around the square were lit up with images of the Rio carnival and the crowds ooh’d and ah’d, exhilarated by the colourful sight on their beloved ancient buildings…

Floats passed by playing music to inspire the mood of carnival Rio style, dancers drew gasps of admiration for their costumes…

For more than two hours an exuberant parade, an electrified crowd and incredible sights made for a memorable opening to Lille 3000.

Afterwards the crowds partied with free music on the streets and a firework display in the park.

If you ever get a chance to watch the parade (next one September 2018) – don’t miss it, in fact make a point of putting this one on your bucket list, you will never go to the opening of an art gallery quite like it!

Find out more about Lille3000

Lille Tourist Office are offering a brilliant deal for overnight visits until 17 January 2016, one night in a hotel, ticket to the brilliant Joie de Vivre Exhibition at the Palais des Beaux Arts and a city bus tour – from €34.00 per person.

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