Everyone loves a French street market – from the visitors who flock to France to experience the good life to the locals who shop at their favourite each week. There are markets in almost every town and village. From the grand street marchés, to covered markets called Les Halles, to authentic street markets of Paris and in tiny villages where there may be only a few stalls, but everyone has their favourite. In 2018, a contest aimed to discover – which is the most loved market of the French? The “Votre Plus Beau Marché” competition run by TV channel TF1 was hugely popular with voters. 25 contenders from all around France went through to the finals and when voting ended in May 2018 there was a clear winner – lovely Sanary-sur-Mer in the Var Department, Provence-Alpes-Cote-D’Azur.

We look at the winner and the contenders in mainland France and Corsica…

Sanary-sur-mer Market, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur: Best market in France

The colour, scents, sounds and flavours of this vibrant market on the edge of the Mediterranean Sea make it a real stand out, happy place to be. The town is located in the heart of Provence, between Marseille and Toulon and its wiggly streets are filled with beautiful buildings. At the friendly market you’ll find around 300 stalls. Honey, olive oil, wine, cheese, spices, fruit and veg plus of course the freshest sea food are on offer. And you’ll find colourful baskets, flowers, pottery and table cloths. Wander under the shady plane trees along the Allées Estienne d’Orves and soak up the ambiance.

It gets busy in the summer months and will probably be even more so now that it’s been recognised as France’s favourite market, so get there early to avoid the crowds and if you need a parking space, have more chance of finding one (there’s plenty of paid parking).

Pick up ingredients for a fabulous French picnic and head to the local beach after-wards to enjoy it while watching the world go by. Market day: Wednesday 08h-13h; www.sanarysurmer.com/

Colmar market, Alsace

The market in the town of Colmar has been going for more than 150 years. In days gone by market gardeners would arrive by boat with their wares using the canals that cross Colmar giving it the nickname Little Venice.

The lovely old city of half-timbered houses looks like a scene out of fairy tale and it’s the perfect location for a spot of shopping. Expect to see plenty of local specialities at the market from pretzels to sauerkraut. Covered market daily except Monday; Wednesday street market, Quartier Est

Quai du  Roi market, Orleans, Loire

A lively food only market held on the banks of the Loire River. Local produce including mushrooms, wine and cheese – delicious! Saturday 07.30-12.30

Belfort Market, Franche-Comté

Located on Rue Dr Frery this foodie covered market is held in a spacious 100 year old building with huge arched windows in an Eiffel-like metal structure. Foodie perfection. Wednesday 07h-12h

Amboise market, Loire Valley

A short walk from Amboise city centre, this large market is one of the most popular in the region and is a former favorite market. Sunday and Friday mornings

Cahors Market, Midi-Pyrenees

A 700 year-old market at the foot of a UNESCO World heritage site, the magnificent Saint-Etienne cathedral, fabulous local produce make Cahors market a superstar. Wednesday and Saturday mornings

Uzès market, Languedoc-Roussillon

In the centre of Uzes, in the enchanting Place aux Herbes the market oozes charm. Spectacularly tasty and oh-so pretty… Wednesday and Saturday mornings

Chatillon-sur-Chalaronne,Rhone-Alpes

Great atmosphere, fabulous food in a stunning building that has inspired painters to capture its vibrant good looks. A must see in the area. Saturday morning

L’Île-Rousse Market, Corsica

Housed in an almost two centuries old building, a classified historic monument, small but the food is outstanding. Daily

Puy-en-Velay market, Auvergne

The market has taken place since the 15th century in the elegant squares of this town.   Delectable dairy and scrumptious produce. Wednesday and Saturday mornings

Nancy Market, Lorraine

A lovely covered market in historic Nancy which has been open since 1848 on the site where a market has been held since the 15th century. Superb produce. Tuesday to Saturday 7h-19h

Versailles Market, Ile de France

Feast like a king at this fabulous and vibrant market. It’s so worth the trip if you’re in the area. Tuesday, Friday and Sunday from 7h to 14h; indoor covered market daily except Monday.

Royan Market, Poitou-Charentes

Held in a dramatic 1950s building – excellent produce. Came second in the contest! Daily 7h-13h

Issigeac Market Dordogne

Colourful market in a beautiful location and a major attraction in the area. Sunday morning

Arras Market, Nord Pas de Calais

At the foot of France’s favourite monument, the Belfry of Arras, is a grand market on the Places des Heroes, where it’s been held since the Middle Ages. It spreads into surrounding streets and is a busy, bustling affair with all things foodie, clothes and household goods. Wednesday and Saturday mornings

Vannes Market, Brittany

Held in the historic centre of Vannes, the market has a great atmosphere. Mainly food and clothes. Wednesday and Saturday mornings

Brive-la-Gaillarde market, Limousin

In the historic centre the weekly market is an institution for the locals and a must see for visitors. Great local produce, friendly and authentic. With more than 300 stalls, its a grand market and one you won’t leave empty handed – far too much temptation. Tuesday,  Thursday, Saturday morning

Troyes Market, Champagne-Ardenne

Covered market selling scrumptious cheeses, bread and more in the lovely town of Troyes with its half-timbered houses, museums, cobbled streets and fabulous restaurants. Daily

Dieppe market, Normandy

A large friendly, bustling market with around 200 exhibitors, superb shopping for local specialities from cider to fish. Saturday morning

Saint-Valery-sur-Somme market, Picardie

With stalls laid out alongside the quay and fabulous views over the Somme Bay, this authentic, charming market is simply lovely as is the town of Saint Valery-sur-Somme. Sunday Morning

Toucy Market,Burgundy

There’s been a market in Toucy since the Middle Ages. It’s held in the streets whatever the weather and it’s THE place to go for the freshest veg and artisan products like cheese and bread. Saturday Morning

Nantes market, Pays de la Loire

Talensac indoor market, almost 100 years old, is the only covered market market in Nantes, located in the Hauts-Pavés, Saint-Félix district. One of the best known and most popular markets in the department. Daily except Monday 07h – 13.30h

Saint Lo Market, Normandy

A very popular market, lots of lush local products and a real winner in terms of fun, friendliness and fabulous food. Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays on place Général de Gaulle

More on markets

Best markets of Provence
5 marvellous markets near Calais – perfect for day trippers
Samoens market, one of the best markets in the French Alps
Antiques markets of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Provence
Markets of Nice, southern France
Dijon market, Burgundy, foodie heaven

The post The very best markets in France – it’s official! appeared first on The Good Life France.

One of the most famous markets in the region of Provence Alpes Côte d’Azur is Cours Saleya in the old town of Nice. But in fact there are two wonderful markets of Nice and most visitors miss one of them.

Cours Saleya market Nice

There’s been a market here for well over a century and in fact if you look at photos from the late 1800s and compare them to photos taken today, you’ll see that by and large, not much has changed and that is certainly part of its charm.

Pretty and typically southern French striped awnings shade the stalls from the sunshine that beats down 300 days a year. This market with its colourful displays of food from Tuesday to Saturday lures tourists like bees to a honey pot. As a result it’s pretty packed most of the time and really busy in peak season. That doesn’t make it any less fun, it’s vibrant, noisy and terrific.

On a Sunday you’ll find a flower market here plus some food stalls. On a Monday it becomes a huge antiques market with an eclectic mix of tat, valuables and reproduction goods.

At the far end of the market (looking away from Place Massena) is a beautiful tall yellow coloured house. It was here that the artist Matisse lived for while and where he was inspired by the colours he saw from his top floor balcony overlooking the Bay of Angels.

Liberation Market Nice

If you want to visit an authentic market, one where the locals shop for their food, hop on the tram from the old town to Stop Liberation. And if you want to sound like a local, call this one la Libé. If you walk to it from Cours Saleya it’s about a mile, and you’ll build up an appetite.

If you’re lucky you may encounter Giorgio who shops here. An ex opera singer of about 90 years, he loves to sing and often startles tourists who venture this way. As his still powerful voice fills the street and he sings the last line “Viva Viva Nicois”, passers-by join in, unable to resist the favourite song of Nice. Giorgio loves an audience and if any pretty girls are close by he will draw his tiny frame up straight, pucker his lips and cry “oh mon coeur” patting his heart – a true performer!

Inside the market is happy pandemonium. Dogs on leads, fast-talking servers, people queuing at their favourite meat, cheese, veg, fish, bread and more stall. It’s a great place to take a break and rub shoulders with the locals and the stall holders.

If you want to fit in, order an apero of pastis or Nice’s favourite tipple, rosé wine, and sit at Le Riviera Cave café in the market, watching the string of customers at the aptly named ‘triperie’ butchers. There’s a lively atmosphere, the hum of conversation is loud and constant. As I stood there enjoying this typically Nice spectacle from a table at Le Riviera, a skinny man with a wonky brown haired toupée surveyed the market. He and his mates were sipping pastis with relish and all had bags of veg and fruit which they tenderly placed on the bar stools instead of their bums while they leaned against the bar. The bar clock has the words “prendre du mon temps” across it which means “I take my time”. I couldn’t sum it up better, it’s a lovely market in which to take your time.

More on Nice
Great places to eat out in Nice – authentic, great value and delicious
10 great things to do in sunny Nice
Place Massena Nice
The vineyards of Nice

www.nicetourism.com

The post Discover the markets of Nice in southern France appeared first on The Good Life France.

If you happen to be in the little town of Montreuil-sur-Mer on July 14, the major French public holiday of Bastille Day, you’re in for a treat. Every year on this day, the town stages a spectacular antiques market that spreads across the whole upper town centre.

Montreuil-sur-Mer is a very handsome French town that has become a popular place for those looking to relax, especially British visitors. It lies on the Cote d’Opale close to Le Touquet. It is no longer ‘on sea’ despite its name, due to the silting up of the marshland to the west of the town.

All of the streets of the higher area of the town on this day are closed to traffic. This is because everywhere is awash, literally every square inch, with the most extraordinary selection of stalls selling just about everything. The day I went I had to park my car at the bottom of the hill and stagger back up the cobbled roads to join the throng. The streets were full of people clutching enticing items they had bought from the traders.

Market stall holders were mainly French but sellers also came from Holland, Belgium, Germany and as far away as Australia. Expect a large amount of professional stalls when you visit here – and the price tag to match. But it’s not all expensive, locals also participate and many erect tables in their gardens to dispose of their no longer needed, but often classically French, household goods and furniture.

Visitors will find a massive range of desirable things. Furniture, pottery, art, household goods, medals, clothes and even mopeds are in abundance. I saw someone carrying two metal aircraft models of positively rare antique authenticity. I wished I had seen them first. If you buy large items leave them with the stall holder and pick them up later when the roads open again.

The streets are flooded with happy families and children strolling and the air is filled with a sense of anticipation as browsers look for the perfect item. The more wear the better somehow, and the price will often be just a few Euros.

Montreuil sur Mer is home to many bars and restaurants – they are all open on July 14 and enjoy much trade as they provide a friendly service.

Bob Lyons is an ex pilot turned travel writer who loves to discover authentic France.

More on Montreuil-sur-Mer
The town that inspired Victor Hugo to write Les Miserables – Montreuil-sur-Mer
Weekend in Montreuil-sur-Mer
Painters Day in Montreuil-sur-Mer

The post Bastille Day Antiques Market in Montreuil-sur-Mer Hauts de France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Size isn’t everything as far as Provençal markets go. Large markets of Provence, such as les grands marchés in Arles and Aix-en-Provence, are extravaganzas that extend over multiple blocks with a couple hundred vendors selling almost every kind of good from soaps and handbags to fresh fruits, vegetables, and fish. To appreciate the range of Provençal markets, however, I recommend visiting a mix of city and village markets. Many of the small village markets exude an outsized charm.

Markets of Provence: Cucuron

Take, for example, the Tuesday morning market in the village of Cucuron.  Nestled in the Luberon—hilly and mountainous terrain that extends eastward from the Rhône to the Alps – Cucuron is surrounded by grapevines and olive trees. What gives the Cucuron’s market its distinctive character is its unique physical setting. The market takes place around the l’étang, or water basin, in the village’s center. Plane trees over 200 years old grace the perimeter of the pond. The water’s calm surface reflects their mottled trunks and broad leafy canopy, creating a visual spectacle. Vendors set up stalls along three sides of the basin. The market activity continues up a path at the far end.

Amble the market, and you’ll find sweet cherries and apricots plucked from nearby orchards, goat cheese (plain or sprinkled with dried herbs), honeys and jams, fat spears of local asparagus, charcuterie, olives, Iberian ham, and fresh fish. The butcher’s case includes a local specialty called caillettes aux herbes, or large meatballs made of pork and spinach. One vendor sells a wide range of kitchen tools, and I always stock up on cheese knives and other useful gadgets for my home or as gifts. There’s usually at least one local potter, and bowls and dishes in hues that evoke the green and golden hues of the landscape.

The quality at this market is high, and the ambience couldn’t be more pleasant. I’ve visited several times, including once when the windy Mistral raced through like a delinquent child, flipping over table cloths and sending merchandise flying. And yet there’s an imperturbable serenity and sense of continuity to be found at this market. Customers are mostly locals who’ve been coming here on Tuesday morning for generations. It’s a typical Provençal market in that the weekly rhythm of villagers coming out for the market is deeply embedded in the social routine.

After market, stroll the village streets and you can discover tucked away fountains, a medieval clock tower, and the remains of a dungeon.  Or enjoy a meal at La Petite Maison de Cucuron where the accomplished chef Eric Sapet presides.

There are many outstanding markets open on Tuesday in Provence—Vaison-la-Romaine, Gordes, and Tarascon to name just a few. But anyone lucky enough to visit the lovely market and village of Cucuron is likely to feel they made a good choice.

The daily markets of Provence
Three marvellous markets in Provence: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Bonnieux, St Saturnin-les-Apt
The picture perfect poppy fields of Provence
The luscious lavender fields of Provence

By Marjorie Williams, author of Markets of Provence: Foods, Antiques, Crafts and More www.marjorierwilliams.com  available from Amazon; Marjorie’s blog about markets, travel, antiques and more is at www.marjorierwilliams.com

The post Discovering the Markets of Provence appeared first on The Good Life France.

The markets of France are known the world over for their fabulous, fresh produce and lively atmosphere. Buying your vegetables, fruit, cheese, bread and other food stuffs from a market adds another level to the whole shopping experience and is a great way to really feel the culture of France. French gastronomy is UNESCO listed and no wonder, it’s such an important part of French daily life.

In the north of France there are hundreds of street markets and for those visiting Calais on a day trip, here are five of my favourite markets:

1 Etaples-sur-Mer Market

Held on a Friday morning in Place du Général de Gaulle, this is the housewives favourite! Veg, fish, meat and all manner of lovely foods are here, plus household goods and clothes. It stands out for its very French atmosphere. Set in the main square and surrounding streets in an authentic fishing village where you’ll find plenty of terrific cafés and restaurants. Fancy fish and chips? Pop to SoFish (16 Boulevard de l’Impératrice), it’s tiny but they make the best fish and chips in northern France according to Elle Magazine and Paris Match. I have of course tried it for myself (several times) and can confirm they’re right! Delicious batter, the freshest fish, crunchy chips and piquant tartar sauce make this place an absolute winner. Head to BiboVino (13 Place du Général de Gaulle) for a glass of wine or a beer in a friendly atmosphere and some of the best wine you’ll ever have the opportunity to try. It’s a new concept where you buy by the glass, served with nibbles and you can buy a box of the wine you like to take home. It’s way cheaper than buying by the bottle and just as good (and lasts longer).

2 Le Touquet Market

The Saturday morning listed art deco market is brilliant (the fish market is open daily). This place is a hive of activity and there are some great stalls selling such diverse items as wicker baskets and very good second hand hotel linen. The shops in Le Touquet are terrific, selling specialities like china at a crazy cheap price, marshmallows, chocolate and some of the best boulangeries you’ll ever find in France. There are loads of places to eat out – some are expensive, this is after all Paris on Sea and much loved by Parisians who head here for weekends in their fabulous villas. Head to Chez Perard (67 Rue de Metz) for the best fish soup in France, it’s exported to some of the best restaurants in the country. In fact they’re so proud of it here that if you order it from the menu – you can have a top up! They also have a tiny and very special oyster bar where the locals stop for a glass of wine and a fresh fish snack.

3 St Omer Market

Saturday morning, lovely market in front of the Renaissance style town hall.  This market has a great atmosphere and the best vegetables anywhere in the area – straight from the marshes where they’re grown close by. Friendly, colourful, vibrant and all in a fabulous, authentic, architecturally beautiful setting. Watch the bakers make fresh meringue in the bakery and visit some of the best cake shops this side of Paris in this lovely town. There’s plenty to do and see here and lots of restaurants but don’t miss De Drie Kalders (18 Place du Maréchal Foch), upstairs is like a French granny’s parlour, downstairs is quirky and filled with authentic artefacts and bits n pieces hang from the ceiling. It’s a great menu and the food is delicious.

4. Boulogne-sur-Mer Markets

Wednesday and Saturday morning, Place Dalton. Fish market daily May to October. Sunday morning Place Vignon. The big market at Place Dalton is bustling and full of character. Grab your basket and fill it with goodies to enjoy later. Don’t miss a visit to the nearby shop of Philippe Olivier (43 Rue Adolphe Thiers), one of the top cheese affineurs (someone who matures cheese) in France – you’ll smell his shop before you see it! An absolute must-see is the Old Town, perched on a hill, enclosed by ramparts, it looks like a film set with its beautiful architecture. Wander the rue de Lille and enjoy a delicious meal at one of the many cafes or restaurants and squeeze into the Vole Hole, a tiny pub right by the incredible Basilica de Notre Dame.

5. Hesdin Market

Thursday morning in the main square and the streets around. This lovely market town has a great atmosphere and lures locals from miles around. In the summer there are free evening concerts in the square and there are enough bars, cafes and restaurants to keep everyone happy. Head to the Belle Epoque (30 Rue Daniel Lereuil) for a French brasserie experience and the friendliest staff ever, or buy your lunch at the market and head to the forest on the outskirts of town for a fab al fresco picnic.

More street markets in the north of France

From time to time, markets are closed for annual fairs so do check the tourist offices websites to ensure the market you want to visit is open.

The post 5 Marvellous Markets Near Calais appeared first on The Good Life France.

The flea markets of France are well known, but the biggest and many say the best in Europe and one of the top flea markets in the world is the Braderie de Lille, northern France. This massive market takes place annually and lures crowds of treasure seekers and bargain hunters from around the globe. I braved the hordes to discover unique booty in the cobbled streets of Lille…

Lille is the fourth largest city in France and Vieux Lille is one of the prettiest – like a miniature Paris it is filed with ancient buildings and is a cultural hub as well as a foodie’s delight.

Lille Braderie – Enormous Flea Market

The flea market takes place during the first weekend of September, starting at 14.00 on Saturday and ending at 23.00 Sunday – non-stop! During this time the city swells with visitors – more than ten times the population and the streets are vibrant with happy, browsing bargain hunters in a carnival atmosphere.

10,000 sellers line the streets, more than 200km of stalls and 33 hours of non-stop flea market action.

The history of the Braderie has been lost over the centuries but legend has it that the fair dates back to the Middle Ages. Local servants were permitted to sell off whatever their masters threw out and pocket the extra cash.

From these humble beginnings the Lille Braderie has grown to be one of the biggest flea markets in the world.

Antiques, vintage, quirky curios, collectibles, retro, contemporary and plain old rubbish – there’s a huge range here – well with 10,000 sellers there would be wouldn’t there! Bargain away as much as you like – you’ll find there are determined sellers who won’t budge a cent, families who’ve emptied out the attic and will let their old treasures go for next to nothing just to clear it and monsieur and madame who will offer you a plastic cup of wine to ease the bargaining process.

Top Tips for visiting the Lille Braderie

The streets are pedestriansed, trains into town offer cheap tickets, huge car parks outside the city perimeter are set up for park and ride travel and the metro zips you round the city. However the best way to get around is on foot so you don’t miss something!

Pick up a map from the tourist office in the centre at Place Rihours and head off on your search of a prize or two… or more and if you’re the type to want to buy more, take a collapsible trolley with you. Not all the sellers will have bags (sacs in French) so take a few – or like me, take none and walk through the streets with a large plastic pig and make everyone smile!

If you’re into a bit of nocturnal bargaining, take a torch so you can see what you’re buying – and the best time to bag a bargain is Sunday night!

Take a break and take part in a legend

It’s de rigeur to eat the signature dish of the Braderie, steaming hot mussels and chips – moules-frites. Over the years a legend has been created – the restaurants and cafés who serve this ubiquitous dish of the north pile your empty mussel shells in the street outside. At the end of the weekend the biggest pile wins!

10 brilliant places to eat out in Lille – from a Champagne bar in a converted 17th century convent to the restaurant of a top chef finalist…
The second hand book market in Lille – absolutely beautiful and also a place to dance tango under the stars…
3 great reasons to go shopping in Lille – 4000 shops for a start!

Lille Tourist Office for more details

The post Lille Braderie Europe’s Biggest Boot Fair! appeared first on The Good Life France.

Saint-Ouen market in Paris is said to be the biggest antiques market in the world! For lovers of vintage, Les Puces de Saint-Ouen as it is called, or rather just “Les Puces” by those in the know, in the northern suburbs of Paris, Saint-Denis, is a must. It’s a fun, fabulous shopping venue where you’ll discover all manner of goods to re-love from jewellery, clothes and hand bags to chandeliers, books, furniture, china and antique anything and everything!

Every weekend the market hums with visitors from all over the world and you might well bump into some well-known vintage fans, think Mick Jagger, Uma Thurman and Pharrell Williams who’ve all been spotted browsing here! You can spend a few Euros, a few hundred or a few thousand or more here.

History of Les Puces de Saint-Ouen

The French are a nation of recyclers and in Paris the art of collecting unwanted items and selling them on has been a part of life for centuries. Saint-Ouen was born when the Paris council decided to clean up the city in the 19^th century. The rag-and-bone-men of the city were driven out and set up camp in the then village that was Saint-Ouen.

Gradually their site grew, cafés and dance halls were opened alongside the flea market stalls, it became a trendy place for Parisians to visit and the flea market was born.  Nowadays Saint Ouen covers a mind-boggling seven hectares and hosts 14 markets with 2000 boutiques – enough to keep the most avid collector happy.

The markets of Saint-Ouen are:

Antica, Biron (think lighting, furniture and objets d’art), Cambo, Dauphine (good for ceramics and furniture), Django Reinhardt, Jules Vallès, le Passage, Malassis (vintage toys and various bits and pieces), Malik, l’Entrepôt, Paul Bert Serpette (once the property of the Duke of Westminster), Rue des Rosiers, L’Usine & Lécuyer (great for house clearance bargains) and Vernaison (books, kitchenalia, fashion and various).

If you’re seeking a feel of “real” Paris then this is a great place to visit. It’s artsy and has a great atmosphere. There are dozens of tiny cafés and brasseries and some more well-known such as Paul Bert.

The shops and stalls sprawl out over a cat’s-cradle of streets and passages offering an astounding array of goods.  Some of the stalls that spill out on to surrounding streets certainly have a bit of junk and souvenir-style goods, but the flea markets of Saint-Ouen are a great place to wander, browse and with luck, spot something to treasure for ever.

How to get to Saint-Ouen Flea Market

By metro: Alight at Porte de Clignancourt (line 4) or Garibaldi (line 13) stations
By Bus: 56 – 60 – 85 – 95 – 137 – 166 – 255 – PC 3 – Alight at: Audonienne
Saint-Ouen market is open: Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays 10am to 6pm.

Website: marcheauxpouces-saintouen

More great features on Paris and its antiques and vintage vibe!
Guide to Shopping for Vintage Paris
How to find flea and antiques market in Paris
Parlez vous flea market? French words to help you bargain hunt in France

The post Saint-Ouen Flea Market Paris appeared first on The Good Life France.

Saint-Omer is a lovely northern French rural town and a perfect weekend destination; it’s also where a great Saturday morning market is held, one that lovers of French markets will adore.

The market takes place on the cobbled Grand Place (Place du Marechal Foch), a brilliant place to sit and watch the world go by and enjoy this elegant square heaving with activity. Surrounded by cafés and bars whose chairs spread out onto the wide pavement you feel as if you are are almost sitting in the market itself on a Saturday morning.

It’s a very old city with a very long history. Many of the houses in the old part of town date back more than 300 years, and there’s a museum with an impressive clay pipe and pottery collection that reflects the life of this town. The majestic Church of Notre Dame looms over everything and is well worth a visit, especially if you are a Rubens fan since there is stunning painting by the great artist there as well as many other beautiful artworks.

St Omer is about 30 minutes from Calais and the market is a big draw. Spilling out onto the winding little alleys around the square this is quite a sizeable market where you can buy food, household goods and clothes, but for me it’s the vegetables that you can get here that make this a stand out market.

Much is grown locally on the enormous marshes, famous for its vegetable growing properties,  indeed this is the cauliflower capital of France producing some 7 million a year. There are around 13000 farms in the region so buying fresh, seasonal and local veg is never a problem. Lush, shiny and beautiful fruit and vegetables are in abundance here and if you pop into the little rue Louis Martel, just off the main square you’ll find it’s not just the bigger producers who tempt you but green fingered locals selling produce from their gardens on kitchen tables brought from home.

This road is also known locally as rue des gourmets thanks to the number of restaurants, bars, brasseries and cafés that line each side. In fact St Omer is a real foodie town with a huge choice of places to enjoy local cuisine from estaminet style with a Flemish influence to full on haute cuisine.

After the market try the Drie Kalders (18 Place du Marechal Foch) which has a lovely ambience with plenty to look at on the walls and ceiling! Push the boat out at the ever popular Le Cygne, on a fine day you can sit outside or enjoy the elegant interior (8 Rue Caventou). L’Histoire de Laurent Bogé (1 rue Henri Dupuis) serves delicious local, organic produce.

Don’t miss the St Omer library while you’re there (40 Rue Gambetta). A hidden gem, recently a First Folio of Shakespeare’s plays was discovered on its heaving shelves of about 35,000 ancient books some of which go back as far as the 7^th Century. St Omer was an important centre of learning and the collection once belonged to the important and currently being restored Jesuit College that adjoins the library. When you go there you will discover it looks like an urban council building on entry, with an air of municipal swimming pool about it. Persevere up the stairs and round the corner to discover the surprising and impressive wood paneled library stuffed to the gunnels with an incredible collection.

You’ll go home with your baskets packed with goodies from the market St Omer, and memories of a very lovely town.

More about St Omer, Pas de Calais
St Omer, a delicious taste of rural France
Great Places to eat, St Omer
La Coupole, St Omer
Saint Omer Day Trip
Where to find the best bread in France – near St Omer!

The post The Market St Omer France appeared first on The Good Life France.

For years my neighbours went on about “The BIG One”, the Lille Braderie, the biggest flea market in Europe with its 10,000 stalls full of bits and bobs, vintage, antiques, pre-loved pieces. Here in France going to flea markets at the weekend or on a national holiday, is a national hobby… but going to the braderie, well, that’s a whole new experience, this is not just any old flea market, this is an EVENT!

Tat or Treasure?

Rifling through someone else’s unwanted goods, haggling over a few centimes, walking up and down looking at rows of what is largely old tat – in my part of northern France, we all just can’t get enough of it. I’m including expats and second home owners in that “we” since I meet an unprecedented number of people that fall into that category, wandering around out of the way villages on a Sunday morning looking for an undiscovered treasure. The French are of course savvy at this game and can often spin a story of provenance that would make Jules Verne blush but hey – it’s all part of the show.

Lille Braderie Flea Market

All that neighbourly talk of “the BIG One” got me going and in the end I gave in and went to it to see for myself what all the fuss was about. The Lille Braderie is something else entirely. I’ve been to a fair few brocantes, braderies, vide greniers, marches aux puces (there are several names for flea markets) in my time but I have never been to anything quite like this before or since.

Behold, Barter and Buy

You can’t drive to Lille whilst this event is on as the roads are pedestrianised. 100km of roads are in fact given up to the 10,000 stall holders who lay out all manner of stuff for the 2 million or so punters who turn up to behold, barter and buy. Fortunately there are two stations in the centre just minutes away from each other, one serves international and high speed trains to Paris and all over France and one serves local stations.

The minute you come out of the station when the Lille Braderie is on – you step into another world. Packed streets, the sounds of millions of people chatting, the beautiful historic buildings as a backdrop, tables spilling out onto the pavements filled with weary shoppers take a break from browsing.

It’s not just a massive flea market – it’s a giant party that starts at 14h on the first Saturday in September and ends around lunchtime the next day. Without stopping. This flea market goes on through the night. Weary stall holders pin their eyes open and carry on and shoppers wander around with torches hoping to catch a tired stall holder at a weak moment and really get a bargain to brag about.

Monumental Mussel Mountains

Bars, cafés, brasseries, restaurants, estaminets (a Flemish style restaurant) do a roaring trade. This is a foodie Paradise this town but for the Lille Braderie the emphasis is on the local dish of moules et frites, mussels and chips to you and me. It’s a tradition at this incredible weekend for eateries to try to be the most popular seller of this ubiquitous dish, and they prove their worth by building mussel shell mountains outside their premises for all to admire.

Colourful, Carousing Crowds

If you don’t like crowds and noise – then you probably won’t enjoy this event. If you love a colourful, raucous, carousing happy crowd, street music, a festive atmosphere, flea markets and vintage – then you will absolutely think you’ve landed in Paradise when you get to Lille.

Top Tips

For a tranquil break head to the park in Lille, it’s not too crowded and there are some great restaurants alongside the canal, a really pretty part of the city that feels like you’re in the country.

Pick up a map from the tourist office that shows you the spread of the flea market as many of the stalls are sorted into sections. Take plenty of small Euro notes and change and be prepared to bargain for what you want – I find smiling sweetly, knowing how much I am prepared to pay and holding the amount out works wonders!

Have fun – this incredible event is as much about enjoying the atmosphere as it is about going home with a bargain!

More about Lille Braderie Flea Market
10 Brilliant places to eat and drink in Lille
How to spend 24 hours in Lille
3 Great Reasons to go Shopping in Lille

The post Visiting the Lille Braderie Flea Market appeared first on The Good Life France.

The Braderie de Lille is the BIG one, the biggest flea market in Europe and for lovers of vintage, bargains and old tat this is a place of wonderment and temptation…

Ancient History

Held every September, the Braderie de Lille has been going on for centuries. No one knows for sure why or how it began, but mention of it has been found in documents as far back as 1127. It’s thought that once a year, after the Catholic feast day of Assumption (15 August), foreign merchants were allowed into the city and masters gave their servants unwanted items to sell. The word ‘brader’ means ‘to sell at a low price’ and to this day, non-professional sellers are known as the ‘Bradeux’.

Or perhaps it is because two 15th century  butchers who lived in what is now the Rue de la Grande Chaussée, were permitted to sell roast meat from the front of their house during the braderie. The Flemish word for roast is “braden”

Whatever the origin, this fantastic event which has gone on for almost a thousand years, is as popular as ever.

On the first full weekend of each September, Lille is closed to traffic and more than 10,000 vendors set up their stands. Two and a half million eager bargain hunters will rummage their way through 62 miles (100km) of stalls.

Mussel Mountains

And there’s more…  Several hundred years ago, during a shortage of meat in the city, canny restaurateurs offered visitors mussels instead. The tradition stuck and to this day visitors are treated to mussels and chips throughout the Braderie. 500 tons of mussels are consumed during the 33 hours the fair takes place and there’s an unofficial competition to see who has the highest mountain of shells outside their restaurant!

Lille Braderie 2015

When: 5-6 September 2015 (times below)…

Top tips: Wear comfortable footwear, get a street map, plus wads of money.  Pick up a map of stall types from the tourist office. Take a torch because this event doesn’t take a break just because its night time – it goes on non-stop from the official opening at 14h on Saturday to 11h on Sunday.

Practical information: Because the city is closed to cars during the Braderie, you’ll need to either make sure your car is in the city before it all kicks off or leave it outside at one of the designated car parks and take the train or tram in (details on website (left).

Useful Website:  Lille Tourism

The post Lille Braderie 2015 appeared first on The Good Life France.