As the promise of summer carries on the breeze, along with the return to wandering by vaccinated travellers in Europe, thoughts might turn to a quiet time in beautiful and secluded accommodation closely connected to nature. And in case you haven’t noticed, camping has undergone an upgrade since that time in your childhood, vaguely recalled by the aroma of wood smoke.

A soft and comfortable bed close to the sound of birds

Dubbed glamour camping, or “glamping” for short, this relatively new form of outdoor getaway is characterised by a carefully blended mix of luxury, simplicity, and exposure to natural elements. And it’s expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of around 10.6% from 2020 to 2027 and reach a market value of over $ 5,62M by 2027, according to a study conducted at the University of Arkansas.

Camping and glamping in France

There are nearly 8,000 campsites in France, with close to 900,000 separate spots to pitch a tent, but this news is passe, when, with simply a click to a site such as Glamping AbracadaRoom, you can now secure yourself and your travelling companions a soft and comfortable bed close to the sound of birds. And how about a bubbling hot tub close by and the stars as your ceiling while you sip on a glass of champagne?

The study cites France as a key country espousing the glamping life, ranking second only to the United States in adopting the lifestyle. France was the site of the world’s first five-star glamping destination, opened as early as 2010. In the decade since, investors have bolstered camping company expansion of the sector, taking the country to a current listing of 221 five-star campsites and 1,171 four-star glamping sites spread throughout the country.

European vacationers seek to explore the continent’s natural beauty in style

U.S. campers are getting back to roots. They are 4.29 times more likely to prefer tent camping and glamping than traditional hotel stays. Nearly half of the Canadian population—46 percent—is interested in the glamping experience, according to surveys conducted during the University of Arkansas study. European vacationers, however, are leading the charge as travellers seek to explore the continent’s natural beauty in style.

The global glamping market is segmented by accommodation types such as cabins and pods, tents, yurts, tree houses, and others, with the cabins and pods segment expected to dominate during the forecast period. Families tend to prefer cabins for their equipped facilities offering the comforts of home, combined with luxury hotel amenities amid nature. Cabins and pods, what’s more, offer safety in the form of locks and latches, a must-have for today’s careful adventurer.

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Rachel Ifans and schoolfriend Lucy Shrimpton decided to throw their kids in a pair of twin campervans and go in search of Autumn sun in the Vaucluse. Here’s Rachel’s report of their road trip…

We flew from London Gatwick to Marseille with Easyjet. On arrival we picked up our hire vans there, using a company called Indie Campers, which has over 30 European locations to choose from. There is a range of vans to hire. We went for the Nomads which accommodate four people and are at the premium end of the range. They all come equipped with bedding and kitchen kit so you really can just arrive with a cabin bag and get on the road.

Marseille to Avignon

A one-hour drive north from Marseille saw us parked up in Camping Bagatelle in Avignon. We made straight for the famous St Bénézet Bridge. You know the one – “Sur le Pont d’Avignon, l’on y danse, l’on y danse”?

Built in the 12^th century by a shepherd, a snaking 22 arches used to span both the Rhone on the Vaucluse side, as well as another wide stretch of the river on the Gard side. At the time, it was the only place you could cross the Rhone between Lyon and Marseille. And that’s why Avignon became such a large trading hub.

The bridge now only has four arches and just one of its original four chapels. We were there at sunset and everything was bathed in a glowy sunlight. It reminded us of summer holidays even though it was almost Halloween! As we were with four teenagers who had a severe case of parental embarrassment, we resisted the urge to dance on the bridge . Instead we sat outside the well-placed Le Moutardier du Pape bar in the Place du Palais to admire the view. Then we took a tour of the fabulous Palais des Papes, the largest gothic building in Europe and the seat of western Christianity in the 14^th century.

Both adults and kids took the histopads as virtual guides. I really recommend it. You just sync the ‘pads’ at pods in each of the palace rooms to find out about the history and to get a VR tour of the place as it once looked. Our tour was quite rushed as it was right at the end of the day, but you could easily spend a couple of hours in the palace.

Roman legacy in Provence

The next morning was another sunny one (yay!) so we drove 30 minutes to the Theatre Antique in Orange. Again, we took advantage of the tech and advise anyone to do the same – with or without kids in tow.

We started off with the visite virtuelle, a 10-minute VR view of what the theatre was like in Roman times and then we each grabbed an audioguide. It was in English and really brought alive the theatre’s past, not just as a performance space but also as both a housing enclave and a prison for periods through the centuries. We also learnt about the mur-de-scene (the backdrop of the stage) which remains intact and still bears the holes where the scenery and drapes were nailed to it in Roman times! Orange is a small town which is lovely for a post-theatre mooch and a coffee, but we had to whizz off as we had an appointment with some pedal power.

Well, I say pedal power, but… Our next stop was Cellier Des Princes, a winemaker in the village of Courthezon where we’d booked six e-bikes, a Provencal picnic and a speedy dégustation before setting off.

E-bike fun

We all fell in love with the e-bikes. They enabled us to cover a lot of ground with barely any effort and no moaning. The vineyards of the iconic Chateauneuf du Pape make for tough cycling. It’s hilly and the terrain can be bumpy, so a bit of electric help was much appreciated!

Sun-baked and happy after our 20km ride, we got back in our vans. Some of the party took a pitstop at a beautiful nougat-shop-cum-salon-de-thé called Silvain in the nearby village of Saint-Didier. It involved a look behind the scenes and another dégustation, this time one the kids could get more on board with.

The rest of the party took a less welcome pitstop at a local pharmacie having come off worse in an altercation with an e-bike and some gravel. Less said about that the better!

In and around Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

The next day we visited Isle-Sur-La -Sorgue. If you want to experience France in a perfect nutshell this is ideal: it has rivers; low ornate iron bridges which sometimes play host to boat races where the participants have to lie down on the boat – a negochin – to avoid being knocked right off!; hundreds of antiques shops; a wonderful locals’ food market, delectable and aesthetically perfect shops selling décor, sweets, thé and tisane; buildings adorned with faded crumbling ghost signs; and a few art-nouveau treats too.

We also visited Brun de Viran Tiran, a very high-quality woolmaker in Isle Sur La Sorgue. We’d read of ‘noble fibres’, an elegant phrase that sounded fascinating, and the mini museum above the shop didn’t disappoint. Like so many trades in France, this one has been passed through eight generations, so these guys are the real deal. They are specialists. So passionate about the heritage and the integrity of what they are creating, and to doing the original animal justice with the finished product.

Campervan travel adds to your Provence experience

Time was short at the Musée de la Lavande in Coustellet, but the interactive and informative guided tour taught us a lot about real and hybrid lavenders, where they grow and how they differ. Real lavender grows high up in the mountains and stays close to the ground but is the plant with the medicinal properties we all know about. The hybrid is a rangy plant which grows at lower altitudes and although fragrant, doesn’t do much in the way of healing.

On this, our final night, we stayed in an aire in Fontaine de Vaucluse. Aires are like campgrounds but only for vans. They vary all over Europe. Some are free, most are cheap, some have showers and loos. And, some are literally a secure carpark with bins and all the facilities you need for dealing with your van (emptying grey water, the loo, and filling up again with fresh water etc).

Look out for Aires

We had our own motorhome for seven years and we much preferred staying in aires to campsites. Not only are they cheap, they’re often in the very best locations. We’ve stayed in ones right by the sea, right in the centre of big cities, right at the bottom of ski slopes. Trust me, they’re worth checking out. (Details: campingcarpark.com/en/)

Fontaine de Vaucluse is famous for its karst spring. It’s the biggest spring in France and the fifth biggest in the world and the source of the River Sorgue. The water that rushes from it is turquoise and clear and only fluctuates between 11 and 14 degrees through the year.

Our last morning saw us up with the lark again and cleaning the vans for drop-off that afternoon. The kids wandered into the town to find a boulangerie and to buy us pastries and coffee.

We decided to reward them for their tenacity in visiting the many museums with us over the past couple of days by setting them loose in a new theme park called Parc Spirou. It’s compact and has lots of rides for younger kids. But, having said that, our teens and tweens really enjoyed the rides they could go on.

A one-hour drive back to Marseille saw us bid a sad farewell to our vans. It had been a fantastic adventure and we’d packed as much as we could into the four days. We really recommend the campervan hire option for an out-of-season break with a difference – especially when the weather is as kind as it was for us.

Campervan details

The Nomad is one of Indie Campers’ premium vans (https://indiecampers.com). The minimum hire is two nights.

Nomad tech spec

• Fiat Ducato diesel engine (L2H2 2.3 Multijet 130) with manual gearbox
• 4 berths
• Dimensions: 5,41m x 2,69m x 2,75m
• WC and shower
• 2 convertible double beds and bedding kit included
• Kitchen with sink and running water (90/120 litres), gas stove and fridge (80 litres)
• Kitchen utensils and cleaning kit included

The hire price includes unlimited kilometres, airport transfer, 24/7 assistance and 24/7 pick-up and drop-off. A child seat is provided as well as a 220V camping cable, car jack, triangle and vests.

Find out more about Provence at: www.provenceguide.com

Rachel Ifans is a British journalist and editor, covering a wide range of lifestyle and travel subjects, but she always returns to her first love, France.

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France is camping paradise. In every department of every region you’ll find campsites that range from starred accommodation (1-5), camping sauvage (camping in the wild), camping à la ferme (where you pitch up in a field on a farm), chalets, mobile homes, gypsy caravans, tree houses and yurts.

So just how do you choose the campsite that’s right for your family? Check out our top tips on camping in France.

What sort of campsites are there in France?

There are different types of campsites, and just like hotels, they are classified according to a star-rating system that are given upon inspection by the Camping Federation of France:

One-star. Small campsites, individual shower cubicles with possibly cold water, dish-washing sinks. Pitch over 70m². Prices start from 8€ per night for a pitch.

Two-star. Reception during the day, individual shower cubicles with hot water, individual washbasins, amenities for small electrical equipment. Pitch over 70m².

Three-star. Warden attendance 24/7, reception in two foreign languages including English. Tiled floors in washing areas, equipped children’s play areas, a wider range of services (Internet access, beverage dispenser…). Fixed rentals and pitches over 80m². Prices around 32-40€ per night for four people.

Four-star. Private washing cubicles with hot water, dish-washing and clothes-washing sinks with hot water. Pitches over 80m², numerous choice of fixed accommodation tarred roads within the site, food stores on campsite or close by. Prices can go from 20-50€ per night for four people.

Five-star. Reception in 3 languages including English, compulsory swimming, Internet access, optional services (spa, massage, tennis…). Beautiful chalets and high end mobile homes.

Camping in France isn’t like it used to be…

Camping is one of the most popular holiday options for the French and over the last few years, many campsites have become more and more upmarket whilst remaining one of the most economical ways to take a holiday.

Lots of campsites are more like resorts with swimming pool complexes, spas, restaurants and entertainment. All of the romance and fun of camping but with lots of amenities and in all the best locations from Provence to the French Riviera and beyond.

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Camping in France is a great way to enjoy the best of France without having to spend a fortune. You can stay in the most popular areas in the most stunning locations. And, it costs a fraction of what you’d spend to stay in a hotel, especially in the summer months.

There’s an enormous choice of campsites in France – but here are three of our favourite summer camping locations in France…

Summer Camping in Provence

This sunny southern paradise is at the top of many summer campsite lists. Lavender fields, olive orchards, vineyards, gorgeous beaches and plenty of sun make this a favourite holiday destination. The Var department in Provence, has the Gulf of St Tropez and gorgeous beaches, but it’s also a green location with beautiful interior countryside.

Pays de la Loire – camping paradise

The Vendée is well known for its gorgeous beaches and exquisite countryside. You’ll discover it’s also a camping paradise. Fabulous sandy beaches, chateaux galore, an incredible fantasy theme park in Nantes where giant machines roam free, island hopping on gorgeous Noimoutier, the stunning countryside of the Marais, Le Mans with its museums and fabulous old town. There’s just about everything you could ever want here to make your campsite holiday an adventure to remember.

Summer camping in Dordogne is brilliant

Dordogne is surprisingly not that well known for its camping qualities – which is a secret well worth finding out. This land of wine making and forests, medieval hill top towns, picturesque villages and fields of sunflowers is the perfect summer playground for the whole family.

The area is known for its amazing gastronomy and with great street markets in towns all around, you’re spoiled for choice when it come to self-catering. Or why not indulge at some of the best and most authentic restaurants in France. Great food and wine, activities galore, fabulous sites, summer sun, aperitifs under the stars… It’s what summer camping in France is all about.

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When it comes to camping near the seaside in France, there’s a huge choice. From pitching your tent in the dunes, to a cool cabin right on the beach, glamping under the pine trees, parking up in your mobile home or renting a chalet. What’s not to love about the sound of the sea lapping up the sand, a glass of wine under the twinkling stars and the fresh air that always seems so much more pure at the coast…

Beachside camping in Brittany

With its beautiful beaches, enthralling coastal scenery and family friendly campsites, Brittany is brilliant for seaside holidays. Explore the Emerald Coast or the Pink Granite Coast, which takes its name from the colours of its unusual rock formations. You’ll discover a land of silky sand beaches, dramatic cliffs, a plethora of islands and secret bays. When it comes to local produce, who can resist the famous pancakes of Brittany, but there’s much more to this region. From the oysters of Cancale, cider, mouth-watering cheeses and the freshest sea food, indulge your senses in this gastronomic paradise.

There’s heaps of choice but we really like the area between Cap Fréhel and Saint Malo in Cotes d’Armor, northern Brittany. It’s got everything from historic towns, gorgeous villages and glorious beaches. With plenty of camp sites to choose from, you can pitch your tent or rent a lovely mobile home, or a large tent with a bathroom, kitchen and terrace.

Perfect beach pitches in Provence

Provence is a beautiful region, rich in history, gastronomy and wine, famous for its lavender fields, picturesque villages and vineyards. It’s also a playground for families and perfect for camping with lots of sunshine. The coast of the French Riviera with its sandy beaches, swish resorts and beautiful old villages and towns is utterly alluring.

Roquebrune-sur-Argens isa little bit of paradise. Just a short way from Saint Tropez it lies between Sainte-Maxime and lovely Frejus. It’s a truly beautiful, unspoiled area and not so well known to non-French visitors. The medieval town of Roquebrun-sur-Argens is quintessentially Provencal. There are fabulous boulangeries, chocolatiers, great restaurants and a weekly market (Friday). There’s a golf course, water sports galore – from sailing in the gulf of Saint-Tropez to diving, hiking and horse riding.

Seaside camping in the Vendée

The Vendée, in Poitou-Charentes, on the Atlantic in southwest France is best known for its shining, soft sandy beaches. Around 70 miles of unbroken coast line, peppered with seaside towns are enough to please everyone. One of the best locations for camping holidays is Les Sables-D’Olonnes, known as the “Pearl of the Ocean”. It’s a large seaside town with an enormous beach 1.5 miles long. This vibrant town has loads to offer. Plus there are lots of fabulous cafés, perfect for a refreshing after beach aperitif as the sun sets. There’s a thriving fishing port and a marina, watching the boats come and go is so relaxing. With five markets, ferry service, museums, the nearby salt marshes, boat trips and absolutely loads of activities – you’ll never be bored here.

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Camping in France with kids is all about having fun and adventure. Making memories and eating delicious French food – freshly baked croissants for breakfast, scrumptious picnics with crunchy baguettes and piquant cheeses. It’s about escaping from your daily routine, experiencing the freedom of the great outdoors and enjoying great activities, wonderful scenery and nature.

Tent, mobile home, caravan in France

Camping is one of the most popular holidays in France. There’s so much variety for where to go, where to stay and accommodation. All you need to do, is figure out what you want from your camping holiday.

Want to stay in a tent? Well there’s masses to choose, you can take your own and pitch up at any number of campsites. Or you can rent one at a campsite and they range from just a couple of rooms to truly fabulous. Tents with all mod cons or even exotic yurts are available.

How about a mobile home? If you’ve got really young children, you might prefer to have a few more home comforts and security against poor weather. There’s a vast range of styles available including mobile homes with bathrooms, even hot tubs on private terraces and their own pools! Or you can take your own campervan/caravan.

There are prices to suit all, from great value to glamping, across all areas of France.

Camping in France campsite comparison website

Why camping in France is perfect for families

1. Easy to get to! With low cost flight availability, numerous ferry ports and Eurotunnel – there’s plenty of choice.
2. Kids Clubs. Many camps offer clubs from one year up to teens. Keeps the kids amused and making new friends while parents can relax.
3. Swimming and sports. If this is what floats your boat, you’ll find that there are some truly amazing pool complexes in French campsites. With great weather, especially in the south, kids love to spend time splashing about. And, with water slides, spashzones and all sorts on offer, your kids (and you) are guaranteed pool fun!
4. From archery to cookery lessons, workshops, art classes and more, many campsites in France offer a plethora of activities to keep the whole family entertained. You can often hire bikes to enjoy quiet roads or designated family friendly cycle routes. You might choose a campsite with or near a lake and enjoy boating fun! You’ll never run out of things to do!
5. Choose a campsite near a town or village with bars, bistros and tourist attractions for a great choice of things to do in the day and at night. Or enjoy organised activities at the campsite. Many organise evening entertainment for the whole family. Quizzes, karaoke, talent shows, games nights and performances are on offer. Or gazing up at an unpolluted sky, looking for shooting stars on a balmy evening might be your thing.

Family Camping in Languedoc

The Languedoc region is great for family camping holidays. It’s sunny, there are loads of places to visit, great beaches and gorgeous countryside, historic cities, culture, castles and sports galore. The Languedoc really does have something to suit the whole family.

Between the beautiful cities of Montpellier and Sète, lie the vast white sandy beaches of Frontignan Plage, a typically Mediterranean resort. For families who love the seaside it’s perfect. There are tons of activities from horse riding to bike hire, great facilities, restaurants and bars, kids clubs and much more. If you’re after a relaxing holiday, with really great accommodation (air conditioning is widely available) it doesn’t get much better than this.

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The Pays de la Loire is one of the best kept camping secrets of France. Long a favourite with the French it’s only really started to be discovered by savvy holiday makers relatively recently.

Nestling in the south west corner of France along the Atlantic coast, it’s a place of vineyards, sensational seaside resorts, historic cities and fabulous markets.

Some of the main attractions of Pays de la Loire

With some of the longest sandy beaches in Europe, if you love being at the seaside you’ll be totally spoiled for choice here. Saint-Jean-de-Monts and La Baule are well-known but if you want to get off the beaten track and discover some less touristy but equally gorgeous seaside spots, try Pont-Mahé, Mesquer and Quimiac.

Where there’s sea – there’s salt. Take a visit to the salt pans of the Guérande to discover the traditional way of extracting salt from seawater. The pure Fleur de Sel produced here is used by top chefs around the world and is much loved by the French.

Nantes is a quirky city that embraces art in a unique way. It’s former industrial sites, estuary, and port are now home to year-round art installations and cultural festivals. You’ll also find the Machines de L’ile here. It’s a project inspired by Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci where giant spiders and elephants wander for instance. It’s an awesome visit.

Everyone knows Le Mans for its famous 24-hour race through the city. But, there’s more to this town than motoring. The old city is a little jewel, with cobbled streets with half-timbered houses, a near perfect medieval town with a remarkable third-century Roman wall. And, a fabulous Sunday morning market.

Angers is the perfect little city to dine out at terraced cafes. Visit an incredible chateau, taste Cointreau in its home environment (it’s not made anywhere else) and discover a historic town with half timbered houses and a laid back vibe.

There’s plenty to do in this almost ice cream cornet shaped department.

Where to go camping in Pays de la Loire

Island Camping Noimoutier

Go island hopping and head to Noimoutier to discover a rather secret part of France It looks Mediterranean with its pretty houses with their whitewashed walls, blue shutters and red terracotta roofs. With 25 miles of beaches, you can go to a different beach every day.

Camping at the seaside Saint-Jean-de-Monts

Saint-Jean-de-Monts offers loads for holiday makers. 8km of beautiful beaches bordered by a forest of pine trees for relaxing in the shade – and a lovely town.

Camping in the heart of the Loire Valley

If you’re looking to go inland a bit for your camping holiday then take a look at the area around Angers and Saumur, in the heart of the Loire Valley, it has everything you want from a holiday.

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Provence has it all. Beautiful beaches, secret coastal bays, spectacular countryside peppered with lavender fields, fruit and olive orchards, magnificent towns and perched villages. The locals wines are delicious, especially sipped under the stars. Provencal gastronomy is superb. The history and culture of Provence is famous the whole world over. And, it makes for the most perfect place to take a camping holiday.

Why camp in Provence?

If you have your mobile home with you, pull up and pitch up, or rent a mobile home, chalet or cottage. There are so many campsites that offer a chance for a sunny, relaxed holiday with tons to do.

When it come to a holiday in Provence, you’re really spoiled for choice. Whether you want to be near the sea or an iconic hill top town, in a village or in the countryside, there’s a ton of options and you’re sure to find one that’s just right for you.

Find a brilliant campsite in Provence

You could choose the area around the medieval village of Roquebrune-sur-Argens or the stunning Gorges du Verdon  There are plenty of campsites with a range of facilities and you can choose a traditional camping pitch or stay in a luxury mobile homes. Some sites have water parks, perfect for children and patient parents. And you’re not far from the beaches of St Tropez for those who like to combine glamour with camping. You’ll find sites have options for fitness and wellness areas, sports galore and lots of workshops. For families, look for an option with kids clubs offering a diverse range of activities from sports, games, crafts and cooking workshops, an even mini farms. Kids won’t want to leave, and parents get a well-deserved break.

What’s your ideal holiday in Provence?

If you long for a relaxing holiday in the sun, the area close to Fréjus and its beaches and the little known village of Tourtour offer a taste of authentic Provence. Think cafés in the square and artisan boulangeries. The area is irresistible for lovers of the outdoor life. And, you’ll find a lovely range of accommodation including air conditioned chalets and cottages (which for some is really important).

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Poitou-Charentes (Nouvelle-Aquitaine) in the southwest of France is one of the country’s most popular camping destinations. It’s no wonder, with a diverse landscape incorporating four departments that take in some of the best beaches and most glorious countryside in France, this is a region that makes for very happy campers…

Poitou-charentes – the ideal camping destination.

Poitou-Charentes has, over the last ten years, been sort of “discovered”. It used to be pretty much unknown to holiday makers who flocked to the Dordogne next door, but when savvy travellers learned about the Poitou-Charentes’ drop-dead gorgeous golden sandy beaches, rolling hills and forests, authentic cafés and bistros, mouth-watering markets and artisan boulangeries in picturesque towns – word got out.

Despite its growing popularity, it never gets as crowded as some places; for those wanting relaxed tranquillity it’s easily achievable, and for those wanting a lively buzz from their camping adventures, that’s a doddle too.

Historic seaside towns like Île de Ré, Île d’Oléron, La Rochelle and Rochefort are all popular with visitors but there’s much more to the region. Cognac, for instance, famous for its production of Cognac makes for a great visit, as does Angoulême a beautiful town famous for its wall murals and annual comic festivalt. And whether you’re a nature or sporty activities lover, the Marais Poitevin, the ‘green Venice’ of France with its cycling and hiking paths and waterways that criss cross the landscape, will really float your boat.

Perfect Pitches in Poitou-Charentes

If you want a holiday in areas of outstanding natural beautythen this region’s going to tick all your boxes. Whether you’re looking to pitch a tent or rent a chalet or mobile home, there’s masses of choice in this region.

There are vast pine forests and outstanding beaches and activities galore from cycling to hiking and horse riding and the campsite has several swimming pools and multiple leisure facilities.

The beach at La Coubre is considered to be one of the best in the region, and yet it’s never crowded. Set in a basin, lined with lovely cafés and restaurants, watching the boats go in and out of the port, kites flying on the long sandy beach is one of life’s finest pleasures.

If you’re looking for a holiday with golden silky sand on beautiful beaches, you’re in the right place on the island of Oléron. 80km of coast, oyster huts, fishing hamlets and salt marshes. With both pitches for tents and excellent mobile homes to rent, camping here will make for very happy campers!

Crystal clear rivers  full of fish, stunning green valleys south of Vienne, and so much to do for the whole family, you won’t know which way to turn. Some of the top attractions of the area including Futuroscope, the award-winning multi-media theme park that’s brilliant for kids of all ages! You’re also close to the Marais Poitevin, the Valley of the monkeys and historic Poitiers.

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A life time of adventure in France began at St Omer for Bob Lyons who reminisces on his first visit to this grand northern French town…

Many years ago, I sensed a yearning to see more of Europe. I had visited France before as part of my work as a pilot but had not ventured far from the hotel room. I had developed a secret curiosity and desire to experience more of this country.  I purchased a ferry ticket and a one man tent and took off for Dover.

When the day came, I stuffed all my camping gear and supplies for a week into the boot of my car and set off. It was a horribly early hour of the morning and the roads were empty. The drive to Dover port at the start of my trip was filled with anticipation. More than twenty years later it still is. Nowadays, the tent has gone but the youthful passion and exuberance has not. I don’t think that I could ever live in France permanently because I find starting the journey from home to the port and the ferry so much an important part of the experience.

I arrived in Calais by mid morning and declared quietly to myself that ‘I was in France’ and sped off. I was working for an airline at the time and received valuable travel concessions as part of my remuneration. I could have used my leave to travel anywhere in the world for just ten percent of the normal air fare. But here I was, just off the channel ferry with a tent in the boot, about to start my first exploration of northern France. I was excited and full of gleeful premonition.

My first French port of call was to be St Omer, not far from Calais. Driving on the wrong side of the road seemed so natural. I wondered if we ought to change over in England. I found a local campsite on the outskirts of the town and set up my tent. It was rather chilly, damp and breezy and I set off into town for lunch to fuel my new taste for adventure.

St Omer represented for me a classic characterisation of France. The streets are wide and the town centre square is broad and accommodating. It lay under the comforting view of the splendid and imposing town hall. The square was surrounded by restaurants and shops. When I arrived, the market stalls from the morning were being dismantled and cluttering the roads. I hardly spoke any French and the local people not much English. It was somehow a new and intoxicating experience – France was so much the same yet somehow so different from life in England. I have never lost that enticing sense of change that exists so close to home.

In St Omer, the Notre Dame Cathedral dominates the city skyline. It was completed in the 14^th. Century and is the home for much great art and architectural heritage so characteristic of France. The Cathedral contains Biblical paintings (including one by Rubens) and several magnificent statues.  The chapel located in the transept is preserved and highly decorated. Within it rests a wooden sculpture of the virgin which attracts pilgrims to this day. As I viewed it, I felt that I could sense the permanence and reliability of French culture.

On the edges of St Omer lie other features that symbolize the historical experience of France.  The city has an active aerodrome. The one today was built by the Germans in World War II. It sits on the original site that was the headquarters of the Royal Flying Corps during the Great War. Over fifty squadrons of aircraft were at some time based there. The aerodrome has a memorial at its entrance reminding all visitors of the appalling short life expectancy of young pilots between 1914 and 1918 serving in northern France.

The Germans built their V-2 rocket launching site on the edge of St Omer at La Coupole. The old underground tunnel complex makes for a fascinating visit. There are also the remains of ancient defensive ramparts that can be visited on the western edge of the city. They are preserved now as a public garden for all to use.

St Omer has a history that is connected to Britain in other ways as well. Henry VIII, The Tudor King of England, employed an executioner from the city to behead his wife, Ann Boleyn. He felt that the London public axe man was not good enough for her apparently. I am sure that Queen Ann would have felt very flattered to be despatched by a man from St. Omer.

That night I returned to my tent on the campsite. It was still damp, gloomy and getting dark. I faced the prospect of a long and uncomfortable night under my canvas roof with the drizzle coming down outside. In the end it was not so bad – a glass of French red wine and a cake from the lovely boulangerie eased my impending pessimism.

I felt the subtle freedom that can only come from the great outdoors once again. I tuned my radio to an English news station which muffled the sound of the wild creatures that I could hear rustling outside. The wine was going to get me off to sleep alright. I would worry later about the chilly and damp morning that awaited me.  For now, I felt surprisingly warm and secure and delighted to be where I was.

Getting up the next day from my tent was in reality quite a challenge. The act of camping once again had given me a sense of youthful exuberance, a sense of individuality somehow. Now though, the raw morning with the squelchy walk to the shower block awaited me.

I had planned to camp in France for five nights and had to persuade myself to remain in my tent for a second night. I found myself a welcoming hotel for the last three nights and indulged once more in the finer comforts of life.

That first camping excursion to France for me occurred over twenty years ago and I have never lost the feeling of excitement and expectation about my next trip. I visit France frequently and know much of it quite well by now and travel across the channel as often as I can afford.

I have been the proverbial Francophile for many years. I love the French sense of life and living. I love the way France guards its culture, language, art and architecture. I love the always changing French climate. I love the French intellect and in a way, somehow, the femininity of French society.

I felt a sense of belonging and attraction to France and French life all those years ago and still do. Now retired from my main career, I have more time on my hands and my yearning, enthusiasm and anticipation of the early morning drive to the Dover ferry port is as strong as ever.

St Omer – Back for another visit 
Things to do in St Omer
What to do on a day trip to St Omer
Saint Omer Tourist Website (English language version)

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