Take a stroll through the villages of Alsace in search of the famous storks…

Eight AM. It was the first day of my multi-day walking journey along the wine route of Alsace. Anticipation filled my heart. One of the smallest regions of France, Alsace is big on wonders. There are many hilltop castles, tranquil forests, picture-book-pretty villages and restaurants that serve hearty Alsatian dishes paired with excellent local wines.

As I left the already bustling cobbled streets of Eguisheim behind, I lost myself in the vast vineyards that carpet the surrounding hills. Over the next few days walking from one village to the next, I would find myself devoid of human contact. But never so alone that I was completely without company. Silently gliding with the wind above me, I observed the distinct long red beaks and the black-tipped wings of the famed white storks as they accompanied me on most of my journey.

Storks of Alsace

Visit Alsace in spring or summer and you’ll spot giant nests on rooftops, roadside poles and church towers in almost every village, town and city. Alsace is home to storks which migrate each year from Africa to spend the warmer months in Europe. They seem to particularly like the region’s natural environment.

The storks are faithful, not only to their spouse, but to their dwelling. They return every year to the same nest after their laborious long distance journey. The male arrives first, ensuring the nest is of optimum condition before the female joins him. Their young inherit the migratory instinct and begin their own journey back south in autumn. Amazingly, when the parents make their own path back, they know exactly where to find their offspring.

Telling of times

These birds have become somewhat of an oracle of the time of the year for farming activities, much like the groundhog of America. Stork abundance signifies a good year to come. A lack of storks can mean some hardship in living conditions.

The locals are friendly to storks. Many of the nests are formed on top of iron cages put there specially for the storks to move in. Perhaps it isn’t all for the storks though. If a stork decides to nest on top of a house, it is believed that good fortune (or a baby, if you wish for it) will come to those who live in this house.

The obsession with storks doesn’t stop at encouraging nest-making. Throughout Alsace, storks feature as names of hotels and restaurants, mountain bike trails and walking tours. There’s even a theme park dedicated to storks.

Walking from village to village in the spring, the sight of majestic birds sitting on their nests looking graceful and proud, was a constant feature.

Bird of Peace

Alsace has had a long association with its storks, known as  störig in Alsatian, with a folktale dating back to 817. Louis the Pious, Emperor of the Carolingian Empire, wanted to divide his land among his three sons. Unfortunately, he was persuaded by his second wife to gift the full entitlement to her son only. This caused the other two sons to wage war against their father.

The peaceful storks saw the devastation and bloodshed that followed. And with blood staining their beaks and feet as they surveyed the land, decided to dip the tip of their wings in black and lose their voice in mourning. Storks have remained silent ever since.

Conservation of the white stork

Mute from birth, storks communicate by body language and clapping their beaks. A fact that I learned at the NaturOparC, a stork sanctuary and wildlife education centre in the village of Hunawihr.

In the 1970s, due to human expansion and loss of habitat, the stork population in Alsace hovered between extinction and survival. At one point there were less than ten breeding pairs sighted throughout the region. In 1983, a stork re-introduction programme was begun. One of the first repopulation centres was established in Cernay. Today, 30 stork couples are often seen flying around the town centre along the river looking for food.

Today, the region of Alsace is home to more than 600 couples.

NaturOparC was part of this successful program. It continues to provide a safe, open sanctuary for storks that come to nest in the treetops. Other than the storks undergoing medical treatment, the birds are free to come and go as they please, and the fact that so many stay is a sign that the environment is ideal for them.

Strategically built ladders and walkways allowed me to approach some of the nests at a safe distance (for the storks) and view them up close. Watching the storks relaxing in their nests, sleeping, preening, clapping their beaks – perhaps a couple in argument over whose turn it was to look after the baby – was a fairy tale moment, truly captivating.

The wine bringers

No visit to Alsace is complete without going to a few wine cellars for some tasting. And it is also of no surprise, that the storks have a beak in the wine business too.

“Oh, there are plenty of storks this year,” chuckled the bartender at the Bleger winery in Saint-Hippolyte, a town famous for Alsace’s only red wine, Pinot Noir. “When there are plenty of storks in spring, you know we are going to have a good harvest in autumn.”

Not only do the storks symbolise fertility, the Alsatian consider the storks to be the bringer of luck and wealth, and for the many winemakers of the region, they also bring a year of good harvest, meaning more wine for everyone.

You can visit NaturOparC in Hunawihr as part of the Inntravel self-guided walking itinerary in Alsace. For more information visit: www.inntravel.co.uk

Amy McPherson is a London based travel writer whose work has been featured in international publications. Cats, cycling and food features heavily in her writing and her blog at: www.footprintsandmemories.com

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Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is best approached from the winding road of the Grand Chemin Val de Gellone. This approach gives you stupendous views of the town which sits atop a hill. When you leave, I recommend you go via the main street on the far side of the town. This long road is lined with boutiques, bistros and artisan workshops.

Officially one of the prettiest villages in France

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is a Plus Beaux Village de France (an official classification for the prettiest villages in France). In the centre, the main square is home to an imposing plane tree. At more than 150 years old, it’s said to be the biggest plane tree in France. All around it, tables and chairs sprawl out from the cafés that line the square. It’s the perfect place to sip chilled wine and nibble on olives as you listed to the cicadas sing.

On one edge of the square sits the Abbey of Gellone. It’s one of the oldest Romanesque churches in France and a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) pilgrim route.

The abbey was founded in 804 by Guilhem, Count of Toulouse. When he moved to this remote location, his cousin the great Emperor Charlemagne, gave him what was said to be a relic of the Holy Cross. This made the abbey an important stop for pilgrims. The well-preserved abbey has an air of serenity to it, and there is a small museum behind the cool cloisters.

A village of legends

Guilhem made the town famous by defeating a giant who took up residence in the ruins of the town’s castle, accompanied by a magpie. The terrified locals asked Guilhem to help rid them of the giant. Guilhem dressed as a maid and, hiding his sword, set out to trick the beast. But he was recognised by the magpie who flew off to warn his mate. Sure of his superiority, the giant ignored the magpie (of course). He fought with the ‘maid’ who (of course) won. And Guilhem threw his opponent off a cliff. The locals claim that though many wild birds live in the area – no-one has ever seen a magpie in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert since that day!

What to see in Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert

Around the abbey a warren of narrow cobbled winding alleys spread up and down the hilly town. As you wander, you’ll pass the 12^th century Tour des Prisons. Along the streets, water trickles from ancient fountains. Some of them are decorated with scallop shells, the pilgrims emblem and picturesque ancient houses lean against each under their sun-baked tiled roofs.

Despite the name, you won’t see a desert, the name comes from the fact not many people that lived there centuries ago. Today it gets rather more crowded, especially in peak summer months, though it barely has more than 250 permanent residents.

A stone’s throw from the village you’ll find another incredible monument – the medieval Pont du Diable which arches high above a steep gorge. Legend has it that yet again Guilhem was the hero. The bridge was taking so long to build that Guilhem did a deal with the devil. The evil one agreed to get the job done in return for the first soul to cross after completion. Guilhem sent a dog across and the devil, in a fit of pique tried to destroy the bridge. However he fell into the gorge below which became known as the Gouffre Noir (the black abyss). To this day, pilgrims and locals crossing the bridge throw a stone into the gorge – to keep the devil on the bottom!

A giant’s castle

Embedded in the hills are the remains of a Visigoth fortress. Alongside is an old mule path, trod for centuries by pilgrims and today part of a hike that begins at the edge of the village on the rue du Bout-du-Monde – the street of the end of the world. Take a detour to visit the ruins of the Giant’s castle, a very peaceful spot with fabulous views.

Janine Marsh visited Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert whilst on a CroisiEurope Rhone River tour from Sète to Arles, which includes excursions of the most iconic destinations en route.

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When presented with good food and wine, the French are apt to break out into song.

Ban Bourguignon may sound like a robust chicken casserole flavoured with red wine but in fact it’s an anthem, a catchy ode that celebrates the French lifestyle. The words go ‘La – La la – La la la lère – La la – La la – La la la la la’. It’s a tuneful round of applause sung in honour of a superb dish or a sumptuous glass of vin, with hands raised above the head – twisting, turning and clapping in time to the rhythm.It’s said the song was born in a bar in Dijon in 1905, the capital of Burgundy, a part of France that has a reputation for the very best in French cuisine and wine.

Dijon – the new French capital of gastronomy

Well, the proof is in the pudding – and you’ll find it at the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin in Dijon.

It’s a bit of a mouthful, and it may sound rather a dry title but I promise you this landmark destination which opened in May 2022, is anything but.

UNESCO added the “Gastronomic meal of the French” to their Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2010. The accolade recognises a thousand-year-old tradition of preparing good food that includes making everyday meals a celebration. The French Government decided to create a venue to showcase and promote French gastronomy and wine, and Dijon was chosen. It has form. UNESCO-listed vineyards, boeuf bourgignon, gougères – and in Dijon library there’s even a specialist collection of food books and menus, more than 30,000 of them.

Homage to wine and gastronomy

The Cité de la Gastronomie et du Vin is on the site of an abandoned hospital built in 1204 along the old Roman road. It has been a landmark for visitors for centuries and now is a landmark for gastronomy. The ancient buildings have been restored and rejuvenated and additional architecturally fabulous buildings created for this foodie city within a city. You’ll find a monumental exhibition space dedicated to food and wine of France and around the world. There are inventive and interactive displays, films, whimsical patisserie showcases, cakes that look like they were made for the land of the giants, team games involving virtual cooking sessions, rooms set out like dining rooms and kitchens and a former chapel dedicated to the UNESCO-listed “Climats” the winegrowing vineyards of Burgundy. Theatrical, flamboyant and fascinating.

Did you know that at 12.30 each day – around 50% of the entire French population will be sitting at a table to eat lunch?! You’ll certainly learn that the French are a nation of epicureans who know how to make a meal of it when it comes to cooking. And you’ll discover just why French gastronomy truly deserves its UNESCO listing.

And that’s not all you’ll find – not by a long way. In this grand homage to the culture of food – there’s more…

Gastronomic village

Themed stores that showcase the best of France including cheese, mustard, charcuterie, seafood, chocolate, bread, cakes and more can be found in this brand new gastro-village. Many of the shops have cooking stations. You choose your food inside, they’ll cook it for you there and then. And you can sit and enjoy it in a superb setting.

There are pop-up bistros, the Experiential Kitchen holds masterclasses with guest chefs, cooking lessons, tasting sessions, cocktail workshops, ‘battle of the chef’ sessions and a fabulous rooftop terrace where barbecue classes are held.

There are also pop up “Degustations” – tasting stalls. When I was there Thierry Marx’s team (yes THE Thierry Marx, the two Michelin Starred chef who is one of the most celebrated chefs in France) were there giving away samples of his divine breads and cakes.

A wine library that’s unforgettable

And when it comes to wine, the Cave de la Cité is in a league of its own. Three floors form a sort of ‘wine library’, 3000 bottles of wine, 250 of them sold by the glass. They range from a few Euros to a lot more when you descend to the Cave des Grand Crus. Here they have some of the most expensive wines in the world – up to a whopping 3000 Euros a bottle. These are the sort of wines most of us will never be able to sip (unless we’re on Government expenses). For instance, I spotted a 2017 Musigny, a Burgundian red that will set you back up to 2000 euros a bottle. But here you can have a taste for a mere 65 Euros for a (small) glass.

There’s also the Ferrandi Paris School of Culinary Arts, the Harvard of Gastronomy, where they teach lessons in English. There are fabulous tableware shops. And there’s a Centre of Heritage and Architecture called 1204 which covers the history of Dijon over the centuries.

A truly scrumptious tribute to glorious gallic gastronomy.

Cite de la Gastronomie and du Vin

More on Dijon

What to see in Dijon
The best museums in Dijon
Dijon in photos
Where to eat out in Dijon
Dijon market
Visit nearby Beaune

How to get there: Trains from Paris to Dijon take 1 hour 34 minutes.

Where to eat: In a city in which gastronomy is revered, it’s hard to know where to go for a great meal, unless you have friends who are prepared to share their tips. I do – and now you do, because I’m happy to tell you my favourite restaurant in Dijon. L’Essentiel is superb. Chef Richard Bernigaud creates seasonal dishes that are on another level on the tastebud scale. The portions are generous, the staff are friendly, the food is superb. I had melon gazpacho as a starter that I won’t forget in a hurry – zesty and zingy. The menu is created for the season and guaranteed to appeal to your inner glutton.

L’Essentiel, 12 Rue Audra, 21000 Dijon

Where to stay: Vertigo Hotel and Spa, a super designer style hotel in the heart of Dijon from where it’s a short walk to the Cité de la Gastronomie et du Vin via the gorgeous public park.

Dijon tourist office

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Tracing the route of one of the most popular films ever made in France – to Beaune, wine country extraordinaire…

If you’ve ever wondered where the French people go on holiday in France, the simple answer is – all over the country. It’s got such a varied offering, there really is something to suit everyone. I can also tell you that many French people dream of visiting Beaune in Burgundy. For the wine, for the glorious countryside, history and culture and for another reason that is largely unknown outside of France.

Film star Burgundy!

Beaune stars in one of France’s most popular films: La Grande Vadrouille (vadrouille means to gad about or gallivant). It’s a comedy that follows the fortunes of some hapless British Airmen (including the moustachioed English actor Terry Thomas) dropped over Paris by parachute during World War II. They lose their way and are aided by a workman, the conductor of the Paris orchestra and a pretty Parisienne puppeteer. Eventually they escape to Burgundy. There a nun from the famous Hospices de Beaune joins the gang. The film was released in 1966, and it’s said that the entire population of France over the age of 16 have watched it at least once!

Trace the footsteps of the film’s stars in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or department. En route you’ll discover the most authentic, beautiful and delicious parts of Beaune and its surroundings. This is an unspoiled area and just perfect for a road trip. The people are friendly, the food is fabulous and the wine is exquisite. And there are many surprises…

The Petite Vadrouille

I joined a Petite Vadrouille tour which kicked off at the Hospices de Beaune, the famous former hospital for the poor in the heart of the city. Founded in 1443, nursing was provided by nuns called the Hospitalier Soeurs de Beaune. The tour included an exquisite dinner in the King’s Room, originally a bedroom created for Louis XIV. He visited the Hospital in 1658, but didn’t sleep here as intended. Instead he headed to what is now the Hotel le Cep just around the corner.

The “sisters” were there to join the party complete with authentic coifs – their famous wing-like headwear. In the film, it was here in the distinctive ancient hospital beds that the fugitive airmen hid in plain sight. The Hospices looks much as it did 600 years ago. The glittering tiled roof you can only see from the vast courtyard, gargoyles hanging from the historic wooden ceilings, stunning artworks, religious artefacts, an ancient kitchen and pharmacy.

10km away, a major part of the film took place in the charming town of Meursault. The townsfolk are proud of the old fashioned fire engine that appeared in the film and it is now displayed in a showcase outside the chateau-like town hall!

UNESCO-listed vineyards

This whole area is in the heart of the UNESCO-listed vineyards of the Côte d’Or known as the Climats of Burgundy. The Climats are a series of 1247 vineyards that form a ribbon of vineyards which run about 60km from the gastronomic city of Dijon to the south of Beaune, where there is a Maison des Climats exhibition centre.

These vineyards are the legacy of a tradition of viticulture dating back as far as 2000 years. Small parcels of land shaped by man to grow vines and make wine that reflects that every parcel of land is unique. Some vineyards are just a few acres in size. Others are considerably larger. Each vineyard is precisely defined and named. The names have Celtic, Gallic, Latin and German roots. They record the influence of those who worked here and helped shape the landscape. Les Casse-Têtes in Meursault for instance, which means ‘brain teaser’, indicating the hardness of the soil and the difficulty of planting vines here!

One of the best known is the Clos de Vougeot. This is the headquarters of the Climats de Bourgogne and seat of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. It was built in the 12th century by monks from the nearby Abbey of Cîteaux. And there is a 16^th century château where you can discover more about the Climats, wine and Burgundy, and enjoy a 5-wine tasting.

Famous names and a wine-powered bike!

Each plot is influenced by its own unique terroir – the French word that’s impossible to translate into English. It refers to the growing conditions – the soil, the grapes, the local climate, know-how, altitude, exposure to sun and rain, and local vegetation. This is an area that produces some of the best wines in the world. Names like Montrachet, Romanée-Conti, Clos de Vougeot, Corton, Musigny, and  Chambertin. And there are many cellars where you can stop for a tasting including some of the most prestigious domaines – Chateau de Meursault Chassagne-Montrachet, Le Chateau de Saint Aubin and Domaine Joillot Pommard. At Maison Olivier Leflaive you can even tour the vineyards by bike. Not just any old bike, a wine powered bike! Seating 12, sip the finest wines as you pedal!

A bird’s eye view

There’s no better way to appreciate this patchwork of vines than from the air. We took to the skies in a helicopter and got a birds eye view of the landscape. You’ll see a tapestry of vineyards, peppered with tiny stone huts, paths trod for thousands of years, stone walls, mills and castles. The countryside around is glorious and after the helicopter dropped us off in a vineyard for  a picnic and wine tasting, we set off to discover the Cirque du Bout du Monde – the Circus at the end of the world. It’s a unique mountainous part of Burgundy. It’s also a classified site of outstanding natural beauty. It’s a memorable experience to stand under a 40 metre high waterfall, surrounded by vineyards.

It doesn’t matter if you’ve never seen the film, a tour of Beaune and its surroundings is a soul-soaring experience.

Tour details: lapetitevadrouilledebourgogne.com

How to get there: Trains from Paris to Beaune via Dijon (TGV fast train) take around two hours.

Where to stay: Hotel le Cep, a luxurious and charming hotel with a Michelin starred restaurant, fabulous bar. Parts of it date to the 14^th century and it has two listed 16^th century courtyards.

Beaune Tourist office

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Listed by UNESCO for its architectural heritage, Arles offers an irresistible Mediterranean lifestyle at the gateway to France’s largest wetland.  Gillian Thornton let herself go with the flow…

There are many good reasons why I would love to live in Arles. The warm Provençal sunshine. That enviable Mediterranean lifestyle. And the irresistible buzz of art and architecture from ancient times to the present day. But there’s another reason.

I’d really love to ask friends to ‘Meet me by the Roman Theatre at midday’ or ‘Catch up outside the Arena at 7 tonight’. Not many places can boast such monumental Roman meeting places as Arles in the heart of a 21^st century city.

Historic past – Roman legacy

Northern gateway to the wetlands of the Camargue, Arles, in the department of Bouches-du-Rhône, stands on the right bank of the Rhône and was originally a Celtic city, later colonised by the Greeks. The Romans arrived in the 1^st century AD, quickly expanding the city until it was home to some 50,000 people. More than 21,000 toga-clad citizens could watch high-octane combat in the vast amphitheatre of Roman Arelate, whilst just a short walk away across the paved streets, the theatre was the place for more intellectual entertainment. Local citizens have been meeting by these monuments ever since.

In the Middle Ages, the 130-metre arena was redeployed as a fortified community, but today you can still sit in the ancient tiers and enjoy events such as the popular Course Camarguaises, or Bull Races. No bulls are harmed in this test of man versus bovine, but human competitors can expect a few sharp scratches if they try to snatch rosettes from the up-turned horns of the local black bulls.

Too much excitement? Then buy a ticket for a summer concert or drama production at the Roman theatre, a chance to slip back in time, even without a toga. And Roman immersion doesn’t stop there. Explore the Baths of Constantine, close to the banks of the Rhône; visit the city’s well-stocked archaeological museum, the Musée Départemental Arles Antique; and stroll the tree-lined Alyscamps lined with Christian tombs. Couturier Christian Lacroix, who was born in the city in 1951, recalls happy childhood games amongst these ancient stones.

Medieval Marvels, Renaissance gems

But Arles isn’t all about the Romans. Fast forward to the 12^th century when the city was further embellished with a wealth of Romanesque monuments. If you have time for just one, make it the Church of Saint Trophime with its spectacular carved portal and double-decker cloister. Invest a handful of euros for the experience of standing on the upper gallery and looking down into the tranquil space. And in the square outside, what else but a Roman obelisk, originally positioned in the Roman Circus.

In 1981, UNESCO bestowed World Heritage status on Arles for its abundance of Roman and Romanesque buildings, but turn the clock forward yet again to the 17^th century to add fine Renaissance mansions to the architectural mix, testimony to the wealth of their well-to-do owners.

Artists in Arles

No surprise then that this multi-layered city attracted the artistic eye of Vincent Van Gogh who spent his most productive spell here. The Dutch artist arrived on a cold winter’s day in 1888 in search of light and found so much of it that he painted 200 paintings and produced almost as many drawings and letters in just 15 months.

Sadly none of Vincent’s paintings are on permanent display here, but it’s still spine-tingling to follow in the artist’s footsteps and stand at the spots where he placed his easel.  Download the self-guided trail from www.arlestourisme.com (link below) to find ten reproductions of his work, particularly atmospheric at night when you can appreciate his vision of La Nuit Etoilée from the banks of the Rhône and the illuminated canopy of Le Café ‘Le Soir’ in Place du Forum.

Van Gogh’s legacy remains

After three psychotic attacks, one of which involved cutting off part of his ear, Van Gogh left the city in May 1889 for a sanatorium in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, but his presence infuses the city streets to this day. Other artists left a more tangible legacy. Pablo Picasso fell in love with the Réattu Museum of fine arts, modern and contemporary art that was launched in the 19^th century with a donation of works by neo-classical painter Jacque Réattu.

The collection is housed in the former Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta and in 1971, Picasso donated 57 of his drawings to what became one of the first public collections of his work. Don’t miss the city’s only original Van Gogh – a letter written by Vincent to Paul Gauguin in 1889.

The Musée Réattu was also the first French fine arts museum to have a photography department. The city has since become synonymous with photographic images. Visit any time from July through September to see photos on show in a variety of indoor and outdoor spaces as part of the International Photography Festival.

LUMA

Most recent addition to the city skyline is LUMA Arles, an eye-catching art and culture centre on the site of a former railway siding. Designed by Frank Gehry, the 56-metre high twisted tower is made from recycled materials, rising from the Parc des Ateliers and visible from all over the city.

Inside its wonky walls, experimental artists, scientists and thinkers of all kinds seek to challenge conceptions through exhibitions, accessible archives, and public events, not just around art and culture, but human rights, the environment, and research. Check out their programme at www.luma.org/arles and make time to wander the 4-hectare park, landscaped as a journey through the flora and fauna of the region.

Some love it; others loathe it. But whatever your view on LUMA Arles, there’s no denying that this controversial building is just the latest phase in a city that has been pushing the boundaries for almost 2,000 years.

Visitor information

Visit www.arlestourisme.com to plan your trip and once in town, head for the Tourist Information Office on Boulevard des Lices to book themed guided tours and pick up self-guided trail maps. A Pass Liberté is valid for one month and gives access to four monuments/museums of your choice for 12 euros (concessions, 10 euros).

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

Take a day or half day tour of Arles with Ophorus Tours

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The region of Burgundy-Franche-Comté boasts traditional French gastronomy and world class vineyards as well as castles, majestic churches and charming villages. It also shares first place with the region of Occitania (Languedoc-Roussillon, Midi-Pyrénées) for the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites…

Burgundy’s UNESCO World Heritage sites

The Climats du Vignoble de Bourgogne

Awarded UNESCO World Heritage List status in 2015, the Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne (Burgundy) vineyards are recognised as a “cultural landscape.” They embody “the combined works of nature and man and express a long and close relationship between the people and their environment”.

Don’t be deceived by the term “Climat”. It doesn’t mean climate or weather in this instance. Instead it is a local word for a specific plot of vines with a precisely defined border, producing wine with a unique taste and which bears its name. There are more than 1,200 Climats across the entire listed area. They lie between Dijon and the Maranges and south of Beaune. The “Climats” are the result of a unique combination of a 2000 year old cultural heritage. It’s a diverse landscape that reflects the know-how of the wine growers. The area features stone walls and shelters in the vineyards, winegrowers’ houses in the villages and monuments in the towns of Dijon and Beaune.

Cistercian Abbey of Fontenay

Founded in 1118, the Cistercian Abbey of Fontenay is one of the oldest abbeys in France. It is the only one founded by Saint Bernard which has remained intact.

The abbey was officially recognised for its valuable contribution to humanity in 1981. It went through a brief transformation as a paper mill during the French Revolution – thanks to the Montgolfier family of hot air balloon fame. Despite this and having welcomed millions of visitors over the centuries, it has retained a mystical charm. Incredibly almost all of the original buildings have survived intact. They include the church, dormitory and refectory. Saint Bernard designed the abbey to represent the Cistercian principles of simplicity, self-sufficiency and usefulness. Its Romanesque lines are pure and symmetrical with no decorative elements. It makes for a uniquely harmonious look and feel – it’s very spiritual. abbayedefontnay.com

Basilica and hill of Vézelay

An hour west of Fontenay brings you to another UNESCO listed abbey, and town. The village of Vézelay is a classified “Sanctuary city in France.”  Together with the 17 communes that surround it, it’s also a classified ‘Grand Site de France.’

Winding streets are lined with Renaissance houses and 17th and 18th century buildings with sculpted doorways. The Basilica sits atop a hill at the end of the main street above the ramparts. Known as the “Eternal Hill” it has played its part in the history of Burgundy, acting as a beacon to welcome and guide pilgrims and crusaders.

Shortly after its foundation in the 9th century, the Benedictine abbey of Vézelay claimed to have acquired the relics of St Mary Magdalene. Since then it has been an important place of pilgrimage, not to mention a great spot to overlook the Morvan Valley. destinationgrandvezelay.com

Chapel Notre-Dame du Haut, Ronchamp

The chapel Notre-Dame du Haut, the pilgrim’s shelter, the chaplain’s house and the pyramid of peace were built by architect Le Corbusier (1887-1965). They have been listed as UNESCO’s World Heritage sites since July 2016 along with 16 other Le Corbusier sites. The chapel, built in 1955 was criticised by some. Others recognised that it heralded an architectural revolution. Le Corbusier designed the chapel furniture and even painted some pieces. www.collinenotredameduhaut.com

Church of Notre-Dame, La Charité-sur-Loire

La Charité-sur-Loire was once an important port originally called Seyr. However in the 11^th century, the monks of the local abbey grew such a reputation for kindness to pilgrims that locals started to call it La Charité. And the name was officially changed. The monks church was the second biggest in France at the time, after the mighty Abbey of Cluny. A fire in 1559 destroyed a large part of it though it still has four of its five original naves, which were rebuilt in 1695. The Church is famous thanks to its sculpted decor. Pillars, capitals, lofty arcades and the bestiary are all typical of Cluny’s richly inspired architecture. In 1998, Notre-Dame church became a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a major stage on the “Route of Santiago de Compostela”. lachairtesurloire-tourisme.com

UNESCO treasures of Franche-Comté

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The Alabaster Coast of Normandy in northern France made a big impact on the Impressionist painters. Gillian Thornton took a scenic coastal drive to find out why.

Stretching from Le Tréport in the north to Le Havre in the south, the dramatic coastline of Seine-Maritime earns its name – the Côte d’Albâtre – from the towering white chalk cliffs that dominate the undulating shoreline. The Impressionists loved a chalk cliff so as a big fan of their work, I’ve come to see for myself the landscapes they loved.

Le Treport

Heading down by car from Calais, I cross from the Hauts-de-France region into Normandy at Le Tréport on the Bresle estuary. Walk the bustling quayside and relax on the beach. Don’t miss the funicular up the chalk cliffs to enjoy sweeping views over coast and countryside. I’m no painter but already I can understand why artists are captivated by the big skies and ever-changing light here.

Eu

Don’t leave Le Tréport without taking a mini-detour to Eu, a small inland town of just 7,000 residents. Eu’s chateau was a favourite home of France’s last king, Louis Philippe. It’s here that Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stayed in 1843 for the signing of the first Entente Cordiale, a diplomatic agreement between France and Great Britain. Louis-Philippe lived his final years in exile in England after being forced to abdicate in 1848. However his beautifully restored Norman mansion still boasts exquisite parquet floors, a priceless art collection, and extensive gardens. Nor was Victoria the only English monarch to make her mark on Eu. William of Normandy married Matilda of Flanders here in the Cathedral of Notre Dame, some 15 years before they became King and Queen of England in 1066.

Dieppe

Back on the coast road, I stop in the bustling fishing port of Dieppe. Its deep water harbour is protected by those signature white cliffs. France’s first ever seaside resort, Dieppe became popular with Parisians from 1822. This got it the attention of Impressionists such as Camille Pissaro who painted the inner harbour in 1902. Look out for reproductions of Impressionist paintings all along the Alabaster Coast in the exact places where the artists placed their easels.

Today Dieppe is classified as a French Art and History Town. , I stop to learn about its seafaring and trading traditions, as well as its Impressionist connections at the museum in the hilltop castle. Just west of Dieppe is Varengeville-sur-Mer. Here you’ll find the 12^th century church of St Valery, renowned for its coastal views and sailors’ cemetery. Master Impressionist Claude Monet painted the exterior of St Valery from many angles, but look inside too. The Tree of Jesse stained glass window is the work of Georges Braque who died in 1963 and is buried in the churchyard.

Veules-les-Roses

For a very small place, Veules-les-Roses packs a pretty picturesque punch. There are period cottages and ancient watermills, seaside villas and a sandy beach. And there are more clues in the name. Nestled in the wooded valley through which La Veules, France’s shortest river, runs, the narrow streets are splashed with the colour of roses of every hue during the summer months.

Victor Hugo was a big fan of the village, coming here regularly in the late 19^th century. One hundred and fifty years later, Veules-les-Roses is still popular. It’s a gem of the Alabaster Coast and the only community in the Seine-Maritime department of Normandy that is classified amongst the Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Fécamp

Beyond Veules-les-Roses, bustling with visitors on market day, I find another Valery, the pretty port of St-Valery-en-Caux with its small harbour nestled between high chalk cliffs. Then it’s on to the fishing port of Fécamp. Hardy fishermen in centuries past set off from Fécamp and Dieppe to fish for cod off Newfoundland. Discover their story at the excellent Fisheries Museum, housed in a converted fish-smoking and packing building beside the harbour.

There are circular views from the seventh floor roof terrace. You’ll get a tantalising glimpse of the extraordinary Benedictine Palace in the heart of the old town. Benedictine liqueur was reputedly created in the 16^th century by a Benedictine monk named Dom Bernado Vincelli, using a secret mix of 27 plants and spices.

The formula was lost in the French Revolution. But in 1863, local wine merchant Alexandre Le Grand found the recipe! He recreated the drink, and commissioned a flamboyant turreted mansion in its honour. A combination of museum and art gallery, it holds the distinction of being the world’s only distillery for Benedictine liqueur.

Le Grand’s art collection spans sacred to modern art and is as eclectic as the building he commissioned.

Etretat

Every new coastal view reminds me why the Impressionist painters were so enamoured of Normandy’s light and landscape. But the place I most want to see with my own eyes is Etretat with its famous rock arch attached to the Aval cliff. I’m thrilled to catch a distant view over a sunset aperitif in the garden of the Domaine de Saint-Clair hotel just outside town. However I’m gutted next morning to wake to thick sea mist. Despite the June heatwave, Monet’s iconic subject is barely visible, even from the beach.

But after my initial disappointment I console myself with the thought that Monet loved to capture changing weather conditions. If I look on this as a Moody Monet Moment, 50 Shades of Grey suddenly takes on a very different connotation!

As the sun burns off the morning mist, I head up to the Amont cliff to visit the magical Etretat Gardens. This extraordinary topiary garden includes – no surprise – a reproduction in wicker of Monet at work, complete with palette and easel.

Le Havre

My final stop on the Alabaster Coast is somewhere I’ve never really wanted to go, but feel I really should. Le Havre. This busy commercial port at the mouth of the Seine was bombed to near oblivion during World War II, leaving 80,000 homeless. Little remains of the original town. It was also the accidental birthplace of Impressionism in 1872 when Claude Monet painted a shadowy picture entitled ‘Impression. Sunrise’, dubbed by a disparaging art critic as Impressionism.

Thanks to the vision of celebrated architect August Perret and his team, Le Havre was rebuilt in the 1950s with broad avenues, public open spaces, and concrete apartment blocks. But despite the city’s UNESCO World Heritage status, I’ve never had any great desire to see it. Big mistake. The innovative period design turns out to be far more attractive than I imagined. Don’t miss the church of St Joseph, Perret’s masterpiece, nor the Perret Show Flat, full of 1950’s nostalgia.

But the real treat for me is MuMa – the Museum of Modern Art André Malrau. It houses the second-largest Impressionist collection outside Paris. The young Monet was encouraged by established artist Eugène Boudin from nearby Honfleur, widely considered as the ‘master of skies’ for his seascapes with racing clouds and wide horizons. Boudin never considered himself an Impressionist but he takes his rightful place here in Le Havre’s glorious quayside museum alongside Monet and his contemporaries.

Thanks to those pioneer painters, art lovers all over the world have discovered the beauty of Normandy’s Alabaster Coast. See it with your own eyes however, and you might just find yourself reaching for the paintbox!

Getting there

Sail direct to Normandy with DFDS (Newhaven-Dieppe) and Brittany Ferries (Portsmouth to Le Havre and Caen-Ouistreham. Le Havre is just over 2 hours by train from Paris St Lazare. For visitor information, see www.seine-maritime-tourism.com

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

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Crystal clear waters and picture-postcard-perfect beaches, wild and unspoiled nature where flowers and cactus grow everywhere, chestnut and cork forests splattered with wild fig, lemon and olive trees surround medieval villages, and folk are welcoming. Janine Marsh takes a cruise and falls head over heels for the island the ancient Greeks called “the most beautiful”…

Cruising around Corsica

Corsica is one of the best-kept secrets of the French. A whopping 80% of visitors to the island are from France. Just 20% are from Europe and the rest of the world. It’s incredible that this gorgeous island is largely undiscovered.

Arriving at the port in Nice on a rather dull and drizzly day, it was easy to spot the cruise ship Belle des Oceans which was to be my home for the next week.

Guests were welcomed aboard by a violinist and the ship’s staff. It set the scene for the rest of the trip. Right from the start you’re made to feel valued. My room was spacious and modern with a good sized window from which I could see dark clouds forming over the hills of Nice.

Before we left port, there was a safety drill, life jackets on, counting heads and there are no exceptions. It was a good chance to see my fellow residents. Mainly French, a smattering of Australian, Canadian and America. Mostly in the older age range, some families and no kids (there are other cruises that cater to kids).

As we set sail in the evening, dinner was announced. The servers stood in the doorway and wished everyone a good evening. Sometimes they broke out into song and warbled us through the doors – it made everyone laugh and broke the ice. By the end of dinner – a very French gastronomic affair, four courses and wine – everyone was chatting. The crew asked English speakers beforehand if they’d like to sit with fellow Anglophones. Some do, some don’t. I found myself sitting with a couple from Michigan and a couple from Canada.

The island of Beauty

For the next 7 days the boat was to cruise around the island, which is closer to Italy than France. We took in the main historic cities, off the beaten track villages and beaches. We enjoyed wine tastings and lunch in gorgeous little family-run traditional restaurants. There is a choice of excursions each day – all brilliant. Classic tours take in the major sites and discovery tours take you to more secret and hidden gems. All tours have French and English speaking guides. It’s a brilliant way to see a lot of Corsica while you relax, enjoy the sites and simply soak the atmosphere where joie de vivre meets la dolce vita

Ajaccio and Iles Sanguineres

We arrived the next morning  to brilliant sunshine in Ajaccio, birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte. There’s plenty to see and do in the rather upmarket and picturesque town and you can’t help but notice the number of bars and shops dedicated to the famous French General! There’s a Napoleon Museum and the fabulous fine arts Fesch museum. Corsican-born Joseph Fesch was half uncle of Napoleon Bonaparte, a cardinal and archbishop of Lyon. Born in Ajaccio he donated his enormous collection of some 16,000 artworks to museums and the Musée Fesch contains a huge chunk, including works by Botticelli, Giovanni Bellini and Titian amongst others.

From here we visited La Parata along the coast of the Ile Sanguineres, a classified Grande Site de France, in time to watch the sun slowly dipping into the sea. Famous French crooner Tino Rossi had a home in this most beautiful area with its pointy islands poking through the top of waves like tiny pyramids. A Genoese tower sits atop a hill, one of many built along the coastline to defend the island. Corsica’s history tells a turbulent tale of invasion, rebellion and social upheaval. Conquered by the Greeks in 565BC, alternately under the rule of the Lords of Genoa, changing hands between the Italians and French. Corsica is now classified as a region of France with two departments, Corse-de-Sud, and Haute-Corse.

Flowers everywhere

What’s immediately apparent is just how lush and flowery Corsica is. Everywhere there are wild lemon, fig and olive trees, cactus plants, lavender and poppies which vie for attention. Every verge is covered in greenery and brightly coloured flowers. And the ever present aromatic maquis, a bit like the garrigue of southern France, an undergrowth of herbs and bushy shrubs, covers the ground. It was only our first day in Corsica and already I was a little in love with it.

Calanques de Piana

A coach took us via mountain roads several hundred metres above sea level to the town of Porto. We passed the Chateau de la Punta built partially from the stones of the Palace of the Tuileries in Paris which once belonged to Catherine de Medici but was destroyed by fire in the lates 1800s. And past  Corsica’s highest vineyard at 500m, the area where Corsica’s “king of the outlaws” once lived. He was no Robin Hood although he was romanticised by many including those with power and influence including Baron Haussmann of Paris and the writer Flaubert.

We stopped at the village of Piana. It’s officially one of the prettiest in France. Typically laid back Corsican, the church bells struck 10 o’clock at eight minutes past! Admiring the dazzling views over the Golfe de Porto In Corsica, you feel it just can’t get any more lovely… And then you come across another gorgeous village, vineyard, beach, town. From there we headed to the village of Ota, a popular starting point for hiking the spectacular gorges de Spelunca via an ancient mule trail, and Aitone Forest. We boarded a boat bound for the Calanques (or calanche in Corsican) de Piana, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and one of the highest calanques in Europe. Sheer cliffs and dramatic rock formations, jutting out of the inky sea are magnificent, majestic and mesmerising, home to birds including eagle-like ospreys .

Porto Vecchio

The glittering coastal city of Porto Vecchio on the south side of the island is built on salt marshes. The salt is still harvested, the salt pans glinting in the sun as you look out from the top of the town. This is the most deluxe part of Corsica. Several celebrities have homes here. Rihanna was spotted here on holiday recently, and George Clooney I’m told – though not together, don’t be starting any rumours! Fabulous beaches and a lively, picturesque town make this a favourite with tourists.

Bonifacio

The best way to see this historic city for the first time is from the sea. As our boat pulled into the harbour, the top deck was bathed in the rays of the rising sun and we tucked into snacks and drinks to the sound of soft music. The towers of Bonifacio shimmered in the soft dawn light, the sky was pearly blue with hints of pink. There is something ancient about the sight of those soaring cliffs turning apricot coloured as the sun burns off the light mist sitting over the inky waters of the Med. Big cruise ships can’t get through the narrow opening but we glided through and it felt magical to witness this special sight.

Bonifacio fees authentic. It’s stunningly hilly and its maze of cobbled winding streets are lined with medieval buildings. Tall old houses in shades of muted yellows and oranges have delicate iron work balconies from which washing hangs. Pale pastel coloured shutters closed against the growing heat of the dawning day.

Napoleon’s ice cream?

Bonifacio has plenty of restaurants and bars, and shops selling jewellery carved from local red coral jewellery – said to ward off the evil eye. At Rocca Serra ice cream bar, they sell an ice cream flavoured with clementine, mandarin and macquis which legend claims was invented when Napoleon fell in love with a local woman and gave her a coral necklace – and in return she gave him an ice cream made to that recipe! Corsica is known as the ‘city of coral’ inspiring Matisse to capture it on canvas.

One of the most incredible sites in the city is the King of Aragon’s staircase. I’d seen a photo of the 187 steep stairs carved into the chalk white cliffs but nothing prepares you for the reality. Do not attempt to use the stairs if you have a fear of heights. Though a safety rail has recently been added – it’s rather harrowing. Legend says Argonese soldiers created the 187 stairs in a single night!

The Lavezzi Islands

After lunch in a picturesque and deliciously rustic traditional restaurant in the countryside, we toured the remote Lavezzi Islands. They look just as if the Caribbean has been plonked down just off the coast of Bonfacio. You can only reach them by boat, and you’ll find a haven of wild birds, and one swanky inhabited island. This is where the rich and famous craving anonymity go on holiday. Locals claim to have seen Beyonce, Princess Caroline of Monaco and former President Sarkozy there!

Cap Corse

Docking in the town of Bastia, a town of art and history and immense charm, we headed to Cap Corse. But first we stopped at Clos Santini vineyard for a wine tasting. They poured generously and plied us with cheese and Corsican charcuterie – figatellu, smoked pork liver and other cured meats.

From here we went to Barrettali for lunch at a restaurant at the Giottani Marina overlooking a fabulous beach. It’s one of those places that you see in French films, romantic, unspoiled and unbelievably beautiful. But you know you will never find it. Well here it is, one restaurant, one hotel and a whole lot of paradise.

On the way back to the ship, we stopped off at Erbalunga, a charming and typical Corsican town, where a game of boules was taking place on the town square, little alleyways lead to the sea, and friendly bars and restaurants sit alongside shops selling clothes and handmade jewellery.

Calvi L’Île-Rousse

Arriving at the Port of L’Île-Rousse we made our way to the city of Calvi along roads lined with pine trees and eucalyptus from Australia and New Zealand. It’s claimed Christopher Columbus was born here, and we stopped at the remains of what the locals claim was his ancestral home in the famous Citadel which dominates the town. Just 30 people still live here in the “Carcassonne of Corsica”. The roads are steep and wind around like a helter-skelter. Nelson stood here at the siege of Calvi in 1794, the sense of history is palpable.

Below the citadel is a bustling town, where Rue Clemenceau is known to the locals as “shopping street” and you’ll find shops peddling everything from chic summery clothes to spicy sausages. The marina is lined with fabulous restaurants. Nip to the streets beyond rue Clemenceau where everything is less touristic. The cafés that don’t have a view over the bay is where the locals go, like Brasserie à Macagna where the smell of cooking – garlic and herbs makes your mouth water. Join locals gathered at the bar for a pre-lunch glass of Corsican wine before tucking into the dish of the day – Moules de Diane, with mussels from L’etang de Diana, Diane’s lake in Aleria, once the Roman capital of Corsica, and renowned for its succulent oysters.

Life on board a Croisi-Europe cruise

Being on board is a cross between a country house hotel where every guest is known.  Each  morning I was asked if I wanted my usual “Earl Grey, no sugar or milk?” Each evening – “a glass of red, not too dry?” And though you get to see a lot on this trip, it is never hurried, never rushed, always relaxing, slow travel at its very best…

Find out more and book a cruise of a life time at: CroisiEurope.co.uk

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Looking for an alternative to a traditional white Christmas in France? Follow north-west France’s Roman Route, its Route des Cretes (summits) or Route des Orgues – route of church organs and sacred music.

They all end up in the Florival or Launch Valley of the Est region of the Haut Rhin of south Alsace where, if you time your arrival for December, you will guarantee yourself to have a uniquely blue Christmas – even if it’s snowing.

Going potty for pottery and turning a shade of blue for Christmas

Every year in December, everything and everyone turns blue in the small Alsatian town of Guebwiller. To find this little town, head twelve miles north-west of Mulhouse, twenty-five south west of Colmar and five from the le Grand Ballon, the highest point of the Vosges mountain range with its eight ski slopes.

Every year it’s the same – people turn blue. Faces are turquoise and hands and fingers a sickly shade of manganese violet.

Not because of the cold, windburn, or an off-piste ski tan. And not because of the liquorice-scented gluhwein is served nightly at Guebwiller’s Christmas market along with roasted chestnuts.

This is all about paying tribute to a local Art Deco potter. And his famous pioneering glaze.

Theodore Deck (1823-1891) became renowned for his ceramic vessels. He created them using traditional Islamic processes like the “Iznik” style, used to decorate many of Istanbul’s ancient mosques.

Deck included white alkaline to create his signature “bleu de Deck.” It is a distinctive glaze mix of potash, soda carbonate, and chalk, which produces a lavish, deep turquoise blue after firing. In 1887, Deck published a treatise on tin-glazed pottery entitled “La Faïence”.

Global influences

In nineteenth century Britain, Minton similarly revived tin-glazed pottery in the style of Renaissance Italian maiolica following their employment of a French ceramicist in 1849.

Théodore Deck made his living from making tile stoves at a factory in Paris. He revived the lost art of transparent enameling and, working at Sevres, passed on the new aesthetics to ceramicists, Edmond Lachenal and Émile Decoeur. Deck’s faience work was inspired by Saint-Porchaire wares as well as Assyrian, Hispano-Moresque, Chinese, Japanese, Italian Renaissance and Persian ceramics.

Guebwiller pays homage to Deck

Until Twelfth Night Guebwiller’s neo-classical red sandstone 1761 Eglise Notre-Dame is lit blue in celebration of the ceramicist. So is the town hall and other buildings. Beside the church, the museum – in an old canonical building and home of a family of silk ribbon makers, has a collection of 500 of Deck’s famous faience pieces.

What to see in Guebwiller

Guebwiller’s history is linked to the abbey of Murbach built in 727. Most of the current city is built around the Romanesque church of Saint-Leger and Burgstall castle. Enclosed by ramparts between 1270 and 1287, Guebwiller dates largely from the thirteenth century. During the French Revolution, the abbey’s assets were sold to industrial developers and Guebwiller became the second industrial centre after Mulhouse.

Its former Dominican monastery dates to the fourteenth century. The nave is decorated with murals.  The acoustics are reputed to be among the best in Europe which can be verified if you have a heavy cold and are suffering from bouts of sneezing.

Or have eaten too much sauerkraut too quickly.

As well as Deck’s masterpieces, the  town –  at the southerly end of the Alsace Wine Route – has four “Grand Crus” ( Spiegel , Kessel , Kitterle, Saering). All the local vineyards offer tastings of their own masterpieces of viticultural art. There’s “moulleux”, “Cremant” sparkling, sweet “vendanges tardives” (late harvest) and “selections of des grains”. The best include Schlumberger Domaine, the Ollwiller vineyard at Wuenheim, Orschwir, Bollenburg and the Noble Valley as well as the cellars of Leon Boesch, Renee Flack, Camille Braun and Materne Haegelin.

If you’re feeling peckish, try family-run “Taverna des Vignerons” and “Jardin des Sens” which offer lighter, easier-on-the-colon options to hearty pork shin, pork knuckle, stuffed pigs trotters and beef slabs with an alp of sauerkraut and the famous lengthy, bendy sausages.

What to see near Guebwiller

Thann, 25km from Guebwiller on the river Thur is the start or finish of the “Route des Vins”.  Its well-known for its storks nests, 1411 Witches’ Tower and late Middle Ages Collegiale Saint-Thiebaut. And nearby, Eguisheim is the  definitive Alsatian town. Half-timbered buildings, “winstubs”, year-round window boxes, cobblestone streets and a charming Christmas market. It could be a backcloth for any Christmas pantomime.

A good base to tour southern Alsace is Dominique and William Pralong’s 1858 “Domaine de Beaupre”, once the De Bay family mansion, textile manufacturers in Guebwiller. Now it is an “artistic space”, holding concerts, recitals and art events, displaying the works of lesser known artists. Even the paintings in your room are for sale.

Bertrand and Florence Gelly’s “Caveau Heuhaus” in Eguisheim is a tasty cellar restaurant offering regional specialties like  tartes flambees or “flammekueche” (Alsatian pizza).

In Soultz, Gregory Rominger’s “Metzgerstuwa” (“butcher’s table”) restaurant adjoins and was once in a butcher’s shop.  One of its specialities is lamb kidneys flambeed in brandy.

So there’s no excuse whatsoever in going to Alsace and not coming back glowing with the good life. And looking like you’ve had a great “Noel Bleu”.

www.ville-guebwiller.fr
www.visit.alsace

By Kevin Piley, a former professional cricketer, now travel writer. He’s also the former chief staff writer of PUNCH magazine and has written for over 600 titles.

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Paradise on the French Riviera

Antibes is one of those places that you stumble upon and realise that you’ve found a sun drenched French corner of paradise. Of course others have found this too, Picasso, Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway all fell in love with its charms. They would probably recognise its famous sites today, almost a hundred years after they partied here in the roaring twenties.

Take a dip in the sea. Wander the old district of Antibes and the scent of orange blossom, lavender and jasmine fills the air. Narrow winding roads with ornamental cobbles lead you past tall old houses dripping with bright pink bougainvillea. In the centre, numerous bars, restaurants and shops lead off from the central Cours Masséna where the market is held and wind around the port. It’s a smallish town but there’s plenty to see and do…

Picasso Museum

The former Grimaldi Chateau which houses a permanent exhibition of Picasso’s works as well as temporary exhibitions, is the number one attraction in Antibes. You don’t need to be a Picasso fan to enjoy it. The castle is lovely with fabulous views over the sea from its statue-strewn terrace. If you are a fan, you’ll love the sense of the artist that you get here. He had a key to the castle and spent from September to November 1946 creating huge paintings in the vast space. A display of black and white photos portray his time in Antibes.

Le Marché Provençal

The daily covered market in the centre of the walled old city is one of the best I’ve ever been to. Tables groan under the bounty of Southern France: spices and lavender, olives and oils, fig vinegar and jams with violet, hibiscus and lavender. Amazing vegetables of jewel-like colours, glistening celery, dried fruit, salt from the Camargue, colourful Italian pasta. Don’t miss the gold medal winning saucissons from Corsica on the stall of “Tony and Nadia.” Skewers strung with meat, peppers and onions, slathered in fresh pesto that make you long to light the barbecue. Cheese and yoghurts. Giant courgette flowers ripe for stuffing. Truffle-everything from mustard to oil and pasta. Macarons in every colour, flowers and berries. Nature is clearly kind in this part of France and the bounty is well… bountiful.

For the best bread, it’s a stone’s throw from the market to Boulangerie Veziano (2 rue de la Pompe). Baker Jean-Paul Veziano made the bread for the wedding of Prince Albert of Monaco. And he is famous for this Main de Nice bread. Literally translated as ‘hand of Nice’ this once traditional bread is rarely to be seen in the south of France.

And when the market ends around mid-day, the square is covered in table and chairs from the surrounding bars and restaurants. Or you could head to the absinthe bar!

Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder

Absinthe was a favourite drink of many artists from Van Gogh to Picasso. Find out what they loved about it at the fabulous absinthe bar (25 Cours Masséna). Three generations have run the bar and serve 50 varieties of the “green fairy.” I have to say, it was my first time and it was much nicer than I expected. Slightly liquorice-y, sweet, refreshing and rather surprisingly not strongly alcoholic tasting! It’s served the correct way. Ice cold water drips from a fountain on the table, through a lump of sugar on a flat silver spoon to dilute the pure absinthe. And all this inside a former Roman well where you are encouraged to wear an old-fashioned hat from a selection – just as they did in the old days!

A town of art and culture

Antibes has lured many artists. Graham Greene lived in a modest apartment here for 24 years. He lunched most days at Café Felix (still there) by the archway to the port. Russian-born artist Nicolas de Staël lived and worked here. Unhappy in love and lacking confidence in his own talent, a dawn to dusk painter, he jumped to his death from his studio. The spot is marked with a plaque, overlooking the beach.

Antibes is still very arty. All along the Boulevard d’Auillon, the former casemates, rooms in the rampart wall, have been converted to artists ateliers. Here’ you’ll find potters, painters, ceramicists, and master glassblower, Didier Saba.

Fulfil your literary desire for English language books at Antibes Books. It’s a lovely bookshop and my opinion has zero to do with the fact that I did a double take when I went in and saw all three of my own books in the best sellers and new releases sections!

Safranier district

There is a flowery little corner of Antibes known as the Safranier district which is a ‘free commune.’ Created in the 1960s, this small area has its own Mayor who is powerless but whose job it is to organise festivities year-round! This includes the making of a record-breaking yule log at Christmas which measures some 14 metres. It’s a great place to go for a meal or an aperitif and soak up the fun atmosphere. Head to café Lilian Bonnefoi, the restaurant of head pastry chef at the very prestigious hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, in Place Safranier. It’s also a cake-making laboratory, where you can take cookery lessons and or enjoy a gourmet coffee break treat.

Juan-les-Pins

You can walk to Juan-les-Pins from the centre of Antibes in around an hour. Or just hop on the train for a couple of euros and be there in minutes. There’s a very different vibe here, it’s buzzy and more commercial. The beaches are fabulous, but head around the bay to see the swanky homes of former artists, writers and the great and good of the day. And treat yourself to a cocktail at the Belle Rives Hotel. It was once the Villa St. Louis, home to Scott Fitzgerald and his troubled wife Zelda.

Peynet Museum

Looking rather like a repurposed post office building, the Peynet Museum is a hidden gem. Raymond Peynet is famous for his whimsical drawings of a young romantic couple, but at the museum you see more of his artwork which reveals an artist who had a deft touch, delicate drawings and a droll sense of humour. Sometimes his art is sneaky, sometimes lustful, other times witty. His commercial posters and illustrations are beautiful.

A place to enjoy the good life

This isn’t a place for racing around. Here you relax. Take your time. Swim or sunbathe on one of the long sandy beaches. People watch. Sit at bars where 6pm is celebrated with a glass of wine brought to you with a smile and a cheery ‘avec plaisir.’ And petanque games go on from morning to nightfall.

Where to eat: There’s a fabulous choice of restaurants here but don’t miss Restaurant Bistrot Margaux. Just a few minutes’ walk from the centre, it faces Port Vauban and chef Frédéric Buzet creates mouth-wateringly memorable dishes. www.bistrot-margaux-antibes.fr

Where to stay: I stayed at the  lovely Hôtel La Villa Port d’Antibes & Spa**** which opened in June 2020. It’s ideally located a stone’s throw from Port Vauban and the ramparts of the old town. www.villa-port-antibes.com
Practical information: Antibes-juanlespins.com

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