France’s largest wetland is much more than just marshland – it’s a land of white horses and pink flamingoes, of Roman remains, rose coloured sea and picturesque villages. Gillian Thornton explores this diverse landscape on foot and by boat, four wheels and four legs.

Where white horses roam and pink flamingos flock…

Sunset over the Camargue and the still water of the lagoon turn slowly silver as the sky morphs through a palette of pastel blues and pinks, deep yellows and burning orange. Rose-tinted flamingos sift the shallows in search of supper, whilst a sturdy coypu watches intently from the bank for an unsuspecting fish.

It’s a magical moment for any lover of wildlife and open spaces, but particularly when seen from the back of a horse. Our leader turns his mount into a shallow lagoon and we trustingly follow in his wake, an enthralled band of riders mounted on the surefooted white horses of this legendary wetland.

Situated at the heart of the Bouches du Rhône department in western Provence, the Camargue forms a triangle between the ancient Roman city of Arles to the north, and the two liquid arms of the Rhône delta. Le Petit Rhône to the west is a protected nature reserve that joins the Mediterranean at Les-Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, whilst Le Grand Rhône carries commercial river traffic from Lyon and Avignon to the west.

Fly into Marseille – less than an hour’s drive from Arles – and the flat landscape of the delta doesn’t look overly inviting from the air, but seen from ground level, it’s a different story altogether. Covering more than 100,000 hectares with 75km of coastline, the Camargue embraces a wide variety of eco-systems that include salt plains and freshwater marshes, salt marshes and lagoons, sandy beaches, paddy fields and dunes. Bird-watchers can find an incredible 237 species here, one-third of all those seen in Europe, and the closer you look, the more surprises are in store.

The wild wetlands of France

Listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site and famous for its white horses, black bulls, and pink flamingos, this glorious wetland is a must-do for anyone who likes big skies, wide horizons, and a wealth of soft-adventure activities. You can take a guided nature tour in a 4×4 or take a leisurely look from a horse-drawn carriage; book a birdwatching tour or enjoy the landscape from water level with a boat trip on the Petit Rhône. Visit the Arles Tourism website and Camargue Tourist Guides for inspiration and online booking.

For a lifelong rider like me, the chance to explore on horseback was top of my priority list, but you don’t need to be a gardian – or camarguais cowboy – to access this stunning landscape on horseback. Simply settle yourself in the comfortable saddle, take up the reins, and proceed at a leisurely pace. I shared the 2-hour Sunset Lovers experience from L’Auberge Cavaliere du Pont des Bannes in a mixed-ability group. Those of us with experience were able to enjoy a gallop behind the dunes, whilst the other mounts proceeded obediently at a stately walk, but most of the ride was conducted at a stately walk with eyes wide open. Speed doesn’t matter in a natural environment like this and the slower you go, the more you see.

Wild birds and wonderful wild life

Take those famous flamingos. Pass any stretch of shallow water in the Camargue and you’ll almost certainly spot small groups of these improbable birds with their downturned beaks and ‘back to front’ legs. But for the full-on flamingo experience, book onto a guided tour to see Europe’s largest breeding colony – some 10,000 pairs who hatch their young every year at the protected Etang du Fangassier. Tours run from April through September, bookable through Camargue Nature Guides along with a wide range of environmental excursions, all available in French and English.

Expert guides Frédéric Bouvet and Christophe Giraud gave me a fascinating insight into local agriculture and wildlife, as we made our way by Land Rover and then on foot across salt plains dotted with tree stumps bleached by sun and salt. Finally we arrived at a viewing platform erected at a ruined 17^th century customs post and, through powerful binoculars, were treated to a unique view of the quivering mass of pink feathers. An unforgettable Attenborough moment in anyone’s book! On the way back to base, there was another colourful bonus as Frédéric drove us past a sandbank to watch multi-hued bee-eaters flying in and out of nesting holes.

The bulls of the Camargue

The Camargue’s resident bulls may not be as eye-catching in colour but they’re certainly full of character. Smaller than their Spanish cousins, Camargue bulls have horns that point upwards rather than forwards and are used in the local course camarguaises or bull games, a popular family entertainment that is played out at arenas across the Camargue throughout the summer months.

After a rousing parade through the streets, bulls and all, the human contestants on horseback – the raseteurs – attempt to pluck a rosette or cockade from between the bull’s horns. Each contest lasts 15 minutes and at the end of the day, the bulls are taken back home for a quiet night at the ranch. A good cockardier – or competitive bull – is a much-prized beast and there’s a vibrant statue of one fine specimen outside the bull ring in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, a jolly, whitewashed seaside resort with an intriguing backstory.

Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer

The town takes its name from the three Marys who were the first witnesses to Jesus’s empty tomb after the Resurrection. Legend has it that that Mary Magadalene, Mary Salome, and Mary Jacobe arrived here in a boat after being expelled from Jerusalem around AD40, together with their black servant Sarah who became patron saint of the gypsies. Every May, gypsies from all over Europe gather in town for a religious festival in Sara’s honour. See her statue – dressed in layers of gypsy clothes – in the vaulted crypt of the Romanesque church where the air is heavy from the heat of candles.

Then head from the depths of the church up the narrow spiral staircase to the roof, once used as a lookout post against maritime invaders. Take in the views to the marina then head past the boats towards the beach, backed with a line of whitewashed cabanes. Thatched with reeds, they were traditionally used by fishermen and farm workers.

Aigues-Mortes – and the pink sea

With waterways in every direction, it wouldn’t seem right not to take a duck’s eye view of this extraordinary wetland. Some 10km inland from Saintes-Maries, I enjoyed a nature discovery cruise by Zodiac with Kayak-Vert Camargue, who also offer excursions by kayak, paddle board, or mountain bike. But if all this sounds too energetic, there’s yet another way to enjoy this unique area at water level.

As well as exploring the Camargue independently, I have cruised the Petit Rhône on  board a leisurely hotel barge operated by CroisiEurope, Europe’s biggest river cruise operator. The 7-night trip travels from Sète on the Mediterranean coast to Arles – or the reverse – and includes visits to a traditional manade or camarguais ranch, as well as Les Saintes-Maries and the walled town of Aigues-Mortes.

With no strategic port on the western Mediterranean coast, French king Louis XIV commissioned Aigues-Mortes in the 13^th century, six kilometres inland and surrounded by malaria-infested swamps. But today, this enchanting town is a mix of historic buildings, shady squares, and rampart walks without the inconvenience of malaria. Visit the commercial salt pans beneath the city walls and buy a bag to enjoy at home with some camarguais rice – an authentic taste of one of Europe’s most inspiring wetlands.

Gillian Thornton is a writer who specialises in France and lifestyle.

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Amy McPherson finds beauty and adventure in unspoiled territory…

Before I went, I had no idea where Vercors was, but I did know it was famous for its outdoor activities. A two hour car journey from Lyon Airport brought me to a small range of pre-Alps mountains that straddles the departments of Isère and Drome in south-eastern France. As we turned off the dusty highway into the valley, I was greeted by a heavenly view. The hills were a crisp lime green and the sky a brilliant blue. Vercors makes a great first impression.

I came here seeking an adventure. Vercors, a utopia for outdoors enthusiast, was ready to indulge me.

Hiking in Hauts Plateaux Nature Reserve

One of the great things about hiking is that all you need is a good solid pair of shoes. It is so easy to simply walk into nature and feel miles away from civilisation. Being a mountainous region, Vercors has plenty of hiking options on offer.

In the Hauts Plateaux Nature Reserve,  the largest land-based metropolitan reserve in France, there are no roads or houses, apart from refuge huts providing shelter for hikers. The 17,000 hectares of wild land with its forests of oaks, beeches, firs, spruce, pines is home to much wildlife including marmots, black grouse, Alpine ibex, vultures and golden eagles.

Paths that crisscross the reserve are rocky with limestone which has been sculpted by water and weather, covered with pine needles and tree roots, lined with mountain flora. The moist undergrowth of the forest is full of ferns, fungi and fabulous fauna. I spotted Lady’s Slipper orchids, Edelweiss, Gentians, as well as the rare scabiosa columbaria ‘Vercors’ in various shades of purple. Other than the crunch of my footsteps, the only other sounds were the whistle of the wind and the rustle of leaves. So quiet, not even the birds stirred. The air was fresh, the surrounding nature energising, and the sound of silence meditating.

Gentle cycling along Via Vercors

No respectable ‘outdoor destination’ would be without the offer of some great cycling. Here in Vercors, while the lycra-wearers rule the spectacular balcony roads that are dramatically carved onto the rock face with breath-taking views of gorges beyond, cliffs above and alpine meadows below, there is an alternative leisure option to exploring on two wheels.

‘Don’t worry’ guide Olivier from Velectrip, which specialises in nature sports, assured a group of us keen to explore the area. ‘We don’t have to wear lycra!’

ViaVercors is a network of designated cycling routes that cuts through the valley floors connecting all the main towns in Vercors. The mostly flat routes took us from farmland to villages, along running streams and quiet back roads.

Vercors: Active by Nature

A bike tour is a great way to explore the many villages of Vercors and visit the local craftspeople and farmers. Other than forest and nature, Vercors is also well known for its agriculture. We stopped at the Ferme du Pic Saint Michel, where Marion and Yannick Rochas have 60 chamois alpine breed goats.

After much petting and cooing the goats who seemed more than happy at the attention, we sampled goats cheese of different stages of maturity direct from the farmer’s hands.

‘Many people say they don’t like goats cheese,’ Olivier said as he stuffed a cube of the one week old cheese into his mouth. ‘That’s because they’ve never really tried it directly from the farm. You cannot get this from the supermarkets.’

Of course, a day on the bike also means guilt-free sampling of great regional cuisine from many of the cafés and restaurants conveniently en route. They’re all listed in the ViaVercors map which you can get from the tourist office, or you can book a guided tour. The best part? I was pedalling an e-bike, which are readily available for hire at local bike shops. It meant the ride was relaxing and I could take it easy and enjoy the views.

Trying out the sport of biathlon

Biathlon is a sport that requires the agility of a cross country skier and the sharp aim of a sniper. It was never on my radar as a holiday activity. Yet, when you find yourself among champions as I did unexpectedly it seemed a shame not to give it a go.

‘Actually, many of the French Nordic sport champions comes from Vercors’ said Loïs Habert. He and his wife Marie Dorin, both ex-national biathletes, and cross-country skier Robin Duvillard manage ZeCamp Hotel in Corrençon-en-Vercors, which offers a selection of sports and wellness holiday activity options. It is the perfect place to try biathlon.

‘Shooting a rifle is all about the breathing,’ Loïs said just before he pulled the trigger and downed one of the targets. I tried to replicate, concentrating with all my energy and managing to hit three out of five targets.

For the ski part of the biathlon, it being summer we ‘ski’d’ on roller skis. It’s not that easy, and not like roller skating, and though I’d seen school groups make it look easy as they rolled up and down the streets of Villard-de-Lans, the town where I was based, I retreated to the hotel for a session of yoga.

On top of the world in Vercors

All around Vercors, the sight of silvery mountain peaks like limestone fingers reaching to the sky is never far away. If you want to get closer to them then a spot of rock climbing is a popular pastime here. I couldn’t resist and joined mountain guide Jehan-Roland Guillot. As he strapped ropes and hooks onto each of us in our intrepid group of climbers he assured us we would be on top of the world soon. I pulled on a  helmet and looked up.  The sun was streaking through the vertical silhouette of the so-called Three Maidens –  Les Trois Pucelles, a set of limestone formation above the valley of Grenoble 1456 meters above sea level. It looked daunting. It looked impossible.

‘Don’t worry, winked Jean-Roland ‘I’m good with beginners!’

Sheer joie de vivre

Two hours later, we had hiked past the 90-metre springboard used during the 1968 Winter Olympic Games at Grenoble, picked our way through patches of coniferous trees, abseiled down a rock wall like James Bond, climbed the jagged edges of the cliffs to the top, and finally reached the gap between the rocks. A rope, stretched tight between the peaks of the rocks, was our way across. Tentatively I hooked my clips onto the rope, inched towards the edge. It was a steep drop to the ground, I gulped.

‘Trust the rope, trust yourself, there is nothing to be afraid of. Just let go’ encouraged Jehan.

In my line of sight, the city of Grenoble spread before like walnut butter, covering the basin and towards the edges of the mountains. It was a beautifully clear day and the peak of Mont Blanc was just visible in the distance. Adrenaline kicked in. It felt like I was at the top of the world.

I breathed it all in and let go.

For nature, beauty, adventure and sheer joie de vivre – Vercors is hard to beat.

For more information:

www.inspiration-vercors.com; www.isere-tourisme.com

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The spa town of Evian-les-Bains on the shores of Lake Geneva, Haute-Savoie, has played host to a glittering list of guests spanning royalty, celebrities and notables over the course of two centuries. In fact, it was so popular that even Frankenstein holidayed here…

The history of Evian

The curative virtues of the water in Evian were first discovered in the late eighteenth century by a French aristocrat. The Marquis de Lessert, whilst out walking in the town in 1789, took a drink from a natural spring. He was much taken with it pronouncing it to be ‘easy to drink’.  It started a trend and an enterprising local started to sell bottles of it. People were wowed by the water’s qualities. If it was good enough to drink, it was certainly good enough to bathe in. The first “Hydropathetic Establishment” (thermal spa) opened in 1826. Hotels, restaurants, and a casino followed, keen to cash in on the visitors who flocked to the town.

What to see in Evian

From the hotel it’s a downhill stroll and twenty minute uphill cardio-vascularly challenging hike back to the town of Evian-les Bains. It’s a surprisingly culturally rich town with a medieval hospital and a thirteenth century church. The Belle Epoque stye is obvious with a lake front 1878-built casino and a theatre with a neo-classical façade which was built in 1885, the 1900-built Palais Lumiere, and the 1826-built Cachat Pump Room (which is being restored). The funicular railway was completed in 1907.  At the Cachat Source, Sainte Catherine’s Fountain, built in 1903, the locals fill up their bottles with free, magnesium-rich, sand-bank filtered water. A French count fleeing from the French Revolution, suffering from gallstones was said to be cured by drinking the water from this source daily. It flows year round at a constant temperature of 11.6°C.

Tranquil. Sans gaz.

Lac Leman

Lac Leman (Lake Geneva in English) is the largest lake in western Europe. It gets its name from either the Greek for ‘lake’s port’ or the Celtic word ‘limos’, referring to the local fertile mud. It’s just a 30-minute ferry crossing from Evian to Lausanne from where you can easily visit the Swiss Riviera and the steep-sided UNESCO-listed Lavaux vineyards on the shores of the lake. If you do, stop for a tasting of the local Chasselas wines. The Domaine Bovard in Cully is one of the best, their Buxus Sauvignon Blanc is superb. In the 12^th century, Cistercian monks created miles of walls and terraces using French stones across the lake to support the terraces. So, there are, arguably, two French sides of Lake Geneva. The monks also planted the original vine rootstock.

Lunch at Tout un Monde Restaurant in Lavaux and you’ll enjoy a view down most of the 104 mile perimeter, croissant-shaped, 25-mile long by 11-mile wide lake which is fed by forty-two rivers. From the terrace you see Evian, the  Bernese Alps, Mont Pelerin, the Savoie and Valais mountains, Montreux and Vevey. While digesting your char, féra, perch fillets and lake shrimps you can watch the yachts and swanky boats as you relish the fabulous view.

Frankenstein connection

Everyone sleeps well at the Hotel Royal. All except Mrs Frankenstein. She and her husband honeymooned there, before she was strangled. In Mary Shelley’s dark tale, Victor Frankenstein, the creator of the monster, agrees to create a mate for him. Destroying it before completion, the monster vows ‘I will be with you on your wedding night.’ On the day Victor married Elisabeth, the monster breaks into the bridal suite at the Hotel Royal and strangles the new bride.

The 467-acre 150 room hotel opened in 1909 in honour of King Edward VII who died before he could schmooze there and blag some luxury. The hotel was allowed to keep its royal status. The Jean-Albert Hebrard-designed “white steam ship anchored in the hills” sits above Lac Leman. One of the first spa palace hotels, the hotel has always been a magnet for the rich and famous. The spa’s relaxation lounge is the Aga Khan III’s old apartment. They still have the original chandelier in storage. The Royal was the holiday choice for sultans, maharajahs, shahs, and other royalty as well as celebrities and statesmen. Just 45 minutes from Les Portes du Soleil, Europe’s largest ski area, it hosted the 2003 G8 summit.

Frankenstein’s monster would never have made a spa therapist. But he could have been mistaken for a customer. Or health tourist. He had the gait of one. Frankenstein walked like he had a metabolic disorder or a urinary ailment. Or maybe he was just getting used to the very scanty, hardly-there and rather tight briefs the spa staff make you wear.

By Kevin Pllley and Janine Marsh

Website: Evian Tourist Office: tourism.evian-tourisme.com

More on Haute-Savoie

Annecy – Guide to what to see and do

Manigod – mountain gem

Summer in the Lake Annecy Mountains

Cycling round Lake Annecy – what to see and the best stops

The post What to see and do in Evian Haute-Savoie appeared first on The Good Life France.

Aiguèze is in the Gard department, Rhône-Alpes region, in an area known as Provence-Occitanie. It’s a small, medieval village, surrounded by vineyards, and officially one of the prettiest in France. Its history goes back many centuries, long before it was fortified in the 11th century. Aiguèze is set around a castle – the ruins of which dominate the skyline of the village above its riverside location, just below the Gorges de l’Ardèche. The centre is pedestrianised with narrow cobbled streets, making it a lovely town to wander.

What to see in Aiguèze

You can’t miss the picturesque square in the centre of the village, Place de l’Eglise, in front of the church of Aiguèze, shaded by place trees. Place Jeu des Paumes is also lovely, lined with cafés, great for a break if you visit the Thursday morning market. On summer evenings there are concerts in the square, accompanied by the sound of the tinkling fountain of Saint Roche. The cobbled streets are paved with Ardèche pebbles and lined with ancient buildings and places of interest. Discover an old wash house, ancient tower, 15th century hospital, and city gates to the walled town, and more.

The Church of Saint-Pierre, open daily, dates in part to the 11^th century. It was later expanded and its’ facades and portal are 16th century French Renaissance. The inside is decorated with brightly coloured frescoes and the bell tower was restored in the Gothic style.

Stroll the ancient vaulted passageway “Combe aux Oiseaux”.  It is unique for its facade, decorated with animal sculptures and home to the famous “sculptor’s house.” Made from beautiful light stone, it’s typical of the architecture of this area. Discover numerous ancient houses, which appear unchanged for what seems like hundreds of years.

Views and vineyards

From the ruins of the castle, high on a rocky ledge there are fabulous views. You can look out for miles across the valley and over the vineyards.

Below Aiguèze  on the Ardèche river there is a popular small river beach. Called Plage de Sauze, it’s great for swimming and kayaking.

Cross the Pont de Saint Martin d’Ardèche suspension bridge. It is an attraction in its own right and takes you from Aiguèze to the town of Saint-Martin d’Ardèche, the southern gateway to the Gorges de l’Ardèche.

Pop to the town’s tourist office in a former 17th century olive mill in Rue du Moulin to find out what’s on.

How to visit Aiguèze

There is no train station here, the nearest station is in Montélimar (27 miles), so it’s best reached by car.

What to see nearby

Avignon, capital of Provence, is around a one hour drive from Aiguèze: Top 10 things to do in Avignon

The famous Roman Aqueduct of Pont du Gard is around an hour away: Pont du Gard

The town of Orange with its astonishing Roman theatre and remains is a little over 30 minutes away: Visit to the Roman theatre of Orange

The lovely village of Vaison-la-Romaine is about a one hour drive

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Annecy, the alpine capital of Haute Savoie, is the jewel of the Savoy alps. It’s famous for its mint-blue lake, medieval architecture, timeworn cobbled streets lined with buildings whose sherbert coloured shutters make visitors sigh with pleasure. Small bridges criss cross canals, the watery arteries of the city which give it its nickname ‘Venice of the Alps’.

It’s also surrounded by glorious countryside and mountains and villages steeped in history. Here are a few of the must see places near Annecy…

Doussard

Doussard (in the Faverges-Seythenex commune) is like stepping into the past. A picturesque bridge over a bubbling river, houses that look like they’ve popped out of a fairy tale, flowers everywhere (top photo). You’ll remember that you’re in the 21^st century when you look up on sunny days though, there’s a landing pad here for the dare devil paragliders who have launched themselves from the Col de la Forclaz! You’ll also find there the Bout du Lac nature reserve.

Menthon-Saint-Bernard

Visit the 1000 year old Chateau de Menthon-Saint-Bernard overlooking Lake Annecy. A saint was born in this castle and his descendants still live here.

Thones

Take a detour to Thones, just 20km from Annecy (about 30mins by bus) this buzzing, vibrant mountain town has oodles of charm. A visit here will give you a flavour of village life half way between the city and the resorts of the Aravis Massif, the Annecy mountains. Go on a Saturday to enjoy the market and if you’re lucky enough to be there when the food festival is on, first weekend of September – you’re in for a serious treat. Tourist office: www.thonescoeurdesvallees.com

Manigod

Make for Manigod, 5km from Thones. A fairy-tale pretty mountain village with the most astonishing views over the Aravis mountains and glorious countryside. Read more on Manigod. Tourist office: en.manigod.com

Faverges

Faverges just 25km from Annecy is a fascinating little town with a wonderful Wednesday morning market. The town is in a glacial valley which gave birth to Lake Annecy. In the summer the area holds a Festival des Cabanes, arty cabins dotted throughout the exquisite countryside, on the edge of lakes, alongside waterfalls, up mountains. Take a treasure hunt tour to see them all.

Climb the 13^th century tower of the Chateau de Faverges. Visit the excellent Archaeological museum Viuz-Faverges with its fascinating collection of Roman artefacts from the local area. Next door, don’t miss the  fabulous wall mural and the 12th century Church of Saint John the Baptist. In the crypt are the remains of a 1st century building and it’s an extraordinary experience to visit such an ancient room. Close by, the 13th century Keep of the Lords of Faverges features a 31m tall tower from which there are outstanding views over the countryside. Book a guided tour to visit the Keep and discover 2,500 years of history in the area: archeoviuz.fr

Discover the grotto and waterfall of Seythenex at the food of the Bauges Massif. And book a guided tour of the area known as Faverges-Seythenex which takes in several of the most beautiful villages in the area. Pop to the tourist office in Faverges for what’s on when you’re there: Place Marcel Piquand. Read more about Faverges here

More on Annecy

Top things to do in Annecy

Where to eat out in Annecy

Cycling around Lake Annecy – lakeside villages, castles and stunning countryside

For inspiration and loads of ideas for what to see and do in and around Annecy Mountains head here: www.annecymountains.com

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Annecy is everything a French alpine city should be – fairy tale pretty, historic, cultural, friendly and utterly delicious. Janine Marsh falls head over heels for the “Venice of the Alps”…

If there was a contest for France’s most beautiful city, I’m pretty sure Annecy would be at the top of the list. Its charms are, quite simply, irresistible. At the heart of it is a crystal clear lake, and, surrounded by majestic mountains, you’re never far from nature here. Winding canals cross its historic cobbled streets and flow under picturesque bridges, past ancient churches and ancient buildings. There are beautiful beaches rather riviera style, activities galore, fabulous restaurants and great museums.

Annecy’s old town

Annecy is used to having superlatives thrown at it “one of the most beautiful towns in France” – tick. “One of most floral cities in France” – tick. European capital of outdoor sports – tick.

The light in Annecy is like nowhere else, it has a purity that I’ve never seen anywhere else. The city is quite ridiculously photogenic and there are sites galore to make you sigh. Canals, bridges and little cobbled streets. Terraced cafes, beautiful old buildings and a medieval castle. Les Jardins de l’Europe, an elegant park on the edge of the lake. And of course the famous Palais d’Isle, a former prison and probably the most iconic site in the city. And all this with a backdrop of snow peaked mountains.

What not to miss in Annecy

This is a city that’s made for flaneurs – that French word which has no real equivalent in English but is often translated as to wander. It means so much more. It means to wander in a leisurely way, to soak up the ambiance, to see the sights – Annecy is a flaneur’s dream town. And, it is the best way to get to know this place, simply wander, get lost in its flower-filled streets, take a break at a café, enjoy a leisurely lunch, walk some more, stop for aperitifs, walk some more, relax over dinner and fall in love with this pretty city.

Get up early to see the Pont d’Amour at its best. There is a myth that says that if two lovers kiss on the bridge, they will stay together forever. That aside, you have the most beautiful views over the lake and into the city as the water flows gently under the bridge. Watch the sun come up and light up the water, it’s rays spiking over the tree lined quais, over the rooftops of the city and through the stained glass windows of the 14^th century church of saint-Maurice, the oldest in Annecy.

You can’t miss the 12^th century Palais de L’Ile. It’s undergone a restoration and is now an interesting museum you can visit to discover its history as a fort, prison, school…

Climb a small mountain to reach the medieval chateau d’Annecy, now a museum and exhibition venue. There are marvellous views over the town from the castle ramparts.

Take a detour to Talloires

I took a taxi boat across the lake and was dropped off at the pontoon of Auberge du Père Bise, a legendary hotel/2 Michelin Star restaurant in Talloires, a tranquil medieval village. It was a bit of Grace Kelly moment in that I felt like a princess and a celebrity! The wind wooshed through my hair as the sun was setting, we sped across the still waters and I drank in the sights – a castle on the edge of the lake, birds flying overhead, the mountains turning dark as the light fell. It’s expensive but one of those experiences that are rarely bettered.

After a wine tasting session with one of France’s most famous sommeliers at the divine Abbaye de Talloires Hotel/Restaurant was followed by dinner at 1903, the bistro of Auberge du Père Bise where star chef Jean Sulpice came out to say hello and ask if I enjoyed my meal. “Enjoy it Monsieur le Chef” I said, “that is one of the best meals of my life” and I meant it.

If you’re staying in the town it’s easy to get around on foot or by bus. You can also hide a bike and take a guided tour – book at the tourist office. And there’s one of those very French little train tours. Outside of Annecy a car is pretty much essential.

Annecy market

I love French markets. I’ve been to hundreds but I can truthfully say, I would go to Annecy for the market alone. There’s been a market here for centuries, going back to the middle ages. Every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday morning stalls are set up and the streets fill with shoppers. I arrived around 7am on a beautiful autumn morning with the dawn sun rising slowly over the mountains, warming the air. I watched mesmerised as a man in a beret cycled past. An old lady pulled a trolley over the cobbles. A baker bought out a tray of still steaming croissants, the scent carried on the air. Beautiful displays of vegetables and fruit, bread and cakes, cheese and chocolate, artisan gifts, baskets and more, were laid out along the ancient streets and over the bridges. This is a market to fall in love with.

Make like the locals and enjoy a hot chocolate or coffee at the Buvette de Marché, the oldest café in Annecy. 20 Rue Sainte-Claire, 74000 Annecy.

Eat

Annecy is a gastronomic delight with a ton of fabulous restaurants and bars. Discover the locals favourites when it comes to lunch, dinner, aperitifs and coffee: Where to eat out in Annecy

Stay

I stayed at Le Boutik Hotel. With one door opening onto the lake and another door opening onto the old town of Annecy, it’s in an ideal location. The rooms are all unique in this elegant mansion house so pick what suits you – retro-vintage, Scandi – interior designer and owner Delphine has great style. And the beds are super comfy. The hotel also has a concept store full of fabulous things you’ll fall for. And it also has a lovely little café, perfect for brunch at the weekends. www.leboutikhotel.com

Get there

From Paris (Gare de Lyon) take the TGV direct to Annecy – from 3 hours 40 minutes. Geneva International Airport is 50km from Annecy, from there take the train or coach.

More on Annecy

Cycling Lake Annecy
Chateau de Menthon-Saint-Bernard, Annecy
Summer in the Annecy Mountains
Detour to Manigod
What to see and do near Annecy

Useful websites

Discover more great restaurant information at lac-annecy.com and more fabulous things to do in the area: www.annecymountains.com 

The post The ultimate guide to Annecy appeared first on The Good Life France.

There are many reasons to go to Annecy and one that might be less well-known (for now, get in quick while you can) is gastronomy. Fresh fish from the lake, alpine cheeses, locally grown wines, génpi – a sort of gin/absinthe hybrid liqueur with a kick, farms galore, numerous artisan producers, chefs drawn to the amazing array of seasonal produce, saffron is grown in the valleys as well as other herbs including cumin and dill. It’s not easy choosing where to eat out in Annecy as there’s such a great choice, but these tried and tested places will definitely tickle your taste buds!

Where to eat out in Annecy

Lunch: Midget, Cave à Manger, is the perfect place for a light lunch tapas style, and a glass of wine. Run by sommeliers Benjamin and Karin it’s friendly, local and delicious. 4 Quai Madame de Warens

Dinner: Whatever you do, don’t miss the locals favourite: La Brasserie Irma, Bocuse Brasserie (top photo). Yes that Bocuse. Irma, the mother of legendary French chef Paul Bocuse was born in Annecy and lived here before moving to Lyon. The fabulous restaurant which opened in 2020, nestles on the edge of Lake Annecy with fabulous views. It’s the locals favourite secret. You can get a takeaway for a feast on the beach opposite, enjoy aperitifs on a pontoon in the lake, relax in the garden or dine inside the bright interior. The food is superb. Avenue du Petit Port

Wine and Dine

Feel like a celeb and take a river taxi across the lake at sunset to eat like a lord at 1903 in Talloires.It’s the bistro of the legendary Michelin starred Auberge du Père Bise and star chef Jean Sulpice’s dishes are guaranteed to make you feel good.

Head out of town to Manigod and the Chalet-Hotel La Croix-Fry gastronomic restaurant to be utterly and thoroughly spoiled. Dine out on the deck overlooking the Aravis mountain valley or inside the cosy restaurant with its grand wood fire and beautiful décor. Indulge in delicious dishes made with fresh regional products, ceps, Manigodine cheese, fish from nearby Lake Geneva, divine reblochon cheese pie and wild mountain fruits.

Aperitifs in Annecy

There’s so much choice but the locals tip is to head to the pretty rue Sainte-Claire.

Or head to Talloires to enjoy a wine tasting in a historic cellar with one of France’s top sommeliers, Charly, at the 18th century Abbaye de Talloires Hotel. There’s a cosy piano bar and gorgeous terrace shaded by lime trees overlooking the lake. Afterwards stay for dinner at the stunning gourmet restaurant.

Coffee in Annecy

There’s loads of choice but a few favourites are:

Aux Roseaux du Lac famous for its chocolate-coffee roseaux (reeds) sweets. 6, rue du Lac

Make like the locals and enjoy a hot chocolate or coffee at the Buvette de Marché, the oldest café in Annecy. 20 Rue Sainte-Claire, 74000 Annecy.

Le Boutik Hotel has a lovely little cafe and terraced area which is perfect for Sunday brunch. Reserve in advance as it’s popular leboutikhotel.com

Taste of Annecy at home

A few recipes to take your tastebuds for a tour from your kitchen:

Reblochon pie
Raclette
Tartiflette
Gateau de Savoie

More on Annecy Mountains

Cycle round lake Annecy, where to stop en route…

Summer in the Lake Annecy Mountains

The ancient Chateau de Menthon-Saint-Bernard

Discover more great restaurant information at lac-annecy.com and more fabulous things to do in the area: www.annecymountains.com 

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Cycling Lake Annecy: I can think of few places that are more joyful to ride around than Lake Annecy in Haute-Savoie. The sparkling lake, backed by snow tipped mountains, passing through picturesque villages and ogling gorgeous castles. If that doesn’t make you want to get on your bike – I don’t know what will!

Cycle path of Lake Annecy

If you go all the way round the lake, it’s about 42km. How long it takes is up to you. If you keep pedalling it’s about 3.5 hours. But why would you want to do that when it’s such a fabulous route with the most stunning alpine scenery and brimming with must-see stop off points.

For the most part, it’s a flat route and if, like me, you want to enjoy a relaxing ride, you can hire e-bikes (as well as normal bikes) in the town. Much off the cycle path follows the old railway track which once connected Annecy to Albertville. The two way path is mostly dedicated to bikes and off road, voie verte, but there are a few spots which run on to the road. From Talloires to Menthon-Saint-Bernard with its incredible chateau for instance. Cycling is massively popular in Annecy so motorists are used to seeing two-wheeled travellers and will drive with care when they see you.

Take the route clockwise round the lake to avoid any hills – though it’s not really very hilly anyway.

Stop off en route

It’s very easy to meander off the path and take in some of the sites. And there are plenty of tempting places to stop off for a break and refreshments. These are a few of the locals’ favourites:

Le Bon Wagon – Duingt. Coffee, delicious snacks, bike repair and cycle hire. There is a spectacular castle in Duingt on the edge of the lake where cultural events are held. It’s built opposite the Roc de Chère, made famous by Paul Cezanne who painted it when he visited (and stayed at the Abbaye de Talloires).

Abri Cyclette – Saint Jorioz, friendly snack bar (and fabulous ice cream). Saint-Jorioz has a beautiful marina and has spectacular views over the highest peaks around the lake.

Base Camp – Talloires-Montmin. There’s a shop, cycle hire, guided tours – and they claim to have the best coffee in the mountains!

Talloires with its incredible turquoise lake and pretty village. The cycle path runs right along the lake with several little beaches.

Café – Vélo La Petite Reine – Veyrier du Lac. Wonderfully relaxing place to stop for a snack, drink and rest. Plus they offer facilities for bike repair. Time your ride to arrive for aperitifs for sunset views over the lake.

Take it further

This is Tour de France cycling country so if you’re after a challenge, you’ll certainly find it here. Between the lake and the mountains, Annecy Mountains provides year-round cycling opportunities.

From Annecy head up into the mountains with ease. It’s hard to pick favourites but…

On the road to Plateau des Glières: Take a bread at the Stop&go des Verges de Thorens at Thorens Glières where you can find 24/7 local specialities like apple juice and cheese in the automatic distributors. Don’t miss Chaumière Saint Maurice for a delicious pizza cooked over a wood fired oven, or tasty classics cooked with local produce.

On the Road to Semnoz: Make a stop at Terrasse du Lac with a stunning view on the lake. At the top you’ll have the most magnificent views over the chain of the Alps to Mont Blanc. You’ll also find Les Rochers Blanc restaurant, perfect for classic local dishes.

On the road to La Forclaz: At the top, enjoy lunch at La Ferme and indulge in their memorable Beignets de Pomme de terre (potato donuts, seriously irresistible and perfect for replenishing your energy levels).

Pick up a map and details from the tourist office in Annecy for loads more routes and information: en.lac-annecy.com

For inspiration and loads of ideas for what to see and do in and around Annecy Mountains head here: www.annecymountains.com

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Majestic mountains, beautiful skies reflected in glistening, translucent turquoise lakes – Isère is a little piece of heaven on earth where you can get away from the hustle and bustle of every day life. Isère takes its name from the river that crosses the department in Auvergne-Rhône-​Alpes, eastern France. Its famous for its ski resorts but it’s also a wonderful area to visit in summer. Wide open spaces, loads of activities and stunning scenery guaranteed. Here’s what to see and do in Isère…

Petit Train de la Mure

One of Europe’s most scenic tourist train rides, the Little Train of La Mure reopened in 2021 after closing in 2010 due to a rock slide destroying a viaduct. It runs between lakes and mountains, through five tunnels and three viaducts over more than 15 km of track. Leaving from the village of La Mure in southern Isère, the trip lasts 40 minutes on board restored carriages. You’ll get panoramic views across the Matheysine plateau taking in the lakes, the Vercors Massif, Mont Aiguille, the Pierre Percée rock and the Trièves mountains.

Arriving at Monteynard, the journey continues on foot along the Grand Balcon promenade. This brings you to the Panoramique Restaurant. Not just great food but seriously impressive views over the turquoise lake of Monteynard-Avignonet and its dam. Clinging to the mountainside, the rail line was a flagship of late 19th-century civil engineering.

This electric railway was the first electrified metre-gauge line in the world. For 100 years it hauled millions of tonnes of anthracite coal over a distance of 30 kilometres before becoming a tourist train.

The train runs daily between April and October. www.lepetittraindelamure.com

Champollion Museum

There are plenty of museums in Isère including 40 eco-museums and 25 themed museums. Culture vultures will find plenty to keep them entertained. And if you’re a fan of Egyptology then the 2021-opened Champollion museum is definitely for you.

It’s the first museum in France dedicated to Egyptology and is housed in the former home of the Champollion family. It’s located at the foot of the Vercors in the town of Vif, a few kilometres south of Grenoble. The museum pays tribute to two illustrious brothers. Jean-François Champollion (1790-1832), a Egyptologist who deciphered hieroglyphics, considered to be the father of Egyptology. And his older brother, Jacques-Joseph Champollion-Figeac (1778-1867). He too was a renowned intellectual, archaeologist, journalist, librarian and university professor.

The site transports visitors to the banks of the Nile and the exhibits revolve around three main themes. Two Men and a Myth. the Lives of Researchers and the Origins of Egyptology. Over the years, family members preserved the interior decorations. There are numerous personal objects belonging to the Champollion brothers. They include stampings of the Rosetta stone – a large library, working notes and abundant correspondence.

Cross the Himalayan footbridges of Monteynard

Unique in Europe, two far-reaching Himalayan bridges (the longest is 220 meters) stretch out high above the Drac and Ebron rivers. They link the two shores of Lake Monteynard-Avignonet. Spanning the lake cliffs, the impressive suspension bridges provide a link on foot between Matheysine and Trièves.

While the routes are accessible for all, those afraid of heights might get chills crossing the dangling 45–85 m high (depending on the level of the lake) pass. The “Footbridges to Adventure” hike is a 12.5 km loop walk. It has a 400-m gradient. It’s an easy day trip for the whole family crossing the two footbridges and taking a boat cruise on the lake. www.lac-monteynard.com

New hiking route: The Via Chartreuse

With 9000km of marked hiking and walking trails, there’s plenty of choice for hiking and cycling in Isère. The Via Chartreuse is a 12km greenway. It’s accessible to the whole family and suitable for all types of slow travel. The route links St Joseph de Rivière to Saint-Laurent du Pont and ultimately to Entre-Deux-Guiers. Using existing paths, the surface is made of natural materials, which reduces the carbon footprint.

A great way to get away from it all in the middle of nature in the Chartreuse Regional Nature Park, the route is dotted with wonderful surprises. These include Plantimay Farm, the Herretang peat bog, Villette and the Sources du Guiers waterfalls. There are superb views of the contours of the surrounding landscape.  Find out more: www.chartreuse-tourisme.com

GR®54: Grand Tour des Ecrins

The Tour des Ecrins (GR®54)  has a reputation as one of the toughest mountain hikes in France. It’s  one of three major long-distance hiking trails in the French Alps, along with Mont Blanc and Vanoise. The route runs through the Ecrins massif, France’s first National Park. And, it should be a breeze for anyone relatively fit.

Sometimes remote, with high, steep sections, the 7 to 12 day loop covers 176 km. It crosses 14 cols (the highest at 2,735 m) with 12,800m of height difference. The rich biodiversity and untamed nature of the Ecrins National Park in the Oisans is the main draw. The wild trek is renowned for panoramic landscapes across lakes and mountains. This includes the main peaks of the southern Alps – Barre des Ecrins (4,102 m) and La Meije (3,983 m). Rare wild flowers – alpine thistle, alpine mugwort, and Vandelli’s rock jasmine – fill the meadows. Marmots, chamois and ibex dwell here. And birds of prey, including griffon vultures and golden eagles, soar the skies. There’s plenty of opportunities for staying in one of the numerous mountain refuges along the way. www.grand-tour-ecrins.fr

Isère, a little corner of Paradise

With two regional natural parks and one national park, 7 great lakes, 120 protected areas and around 300 outdoor activities – you’ll never run out of things to do in Isère.

There are also two thermal resorts, 50 heritage sites including 21 castles.

Something for everyone.

Find out more at: www.isere-tourism.com

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Discover the silk road of the Ardèche in southern France where silk mills were once a vital part of life.

A rugged landscape with its roots in the silk trade

The Ardèche is a rugged region with twisting roads, far reaching views and medieval villages. It’s roughly an hour and a half south of Lyon and is also a land of diverse vegetation. It has deep musty forests clinging to rocky slopes, flat plains of olive trees and vines and the first hints of the Garrigue further south. In places its wooded gorges and rivers feel wild and untamed and it’s easy to forget that the “Golden Trees” (the nick name for mulberry trees because of their glowing colours and the wealth they brought to the region), once ignited the land.

Silkworm farming and silk production was a huge part of the landscape and life here. It’s a region still dotted with large and abandoned stone silk mills and “magnanerie” or silkworm farms, (most of which are now family homes or gîtes). And sericulture still holds a tenuous influence over the land, even if you do have to look a little closely to find it.

Originally introduced in the 14th century, by the mid-17^th century there were over 400 silk mills in the Ardèche. Women and children as young as 8 formed the back bone of the industry and worked in arduous conditions in the mills.

The rearing of silkworms was complex work too but could be done in the bosom of the family home. Silkworms form cocoons which then become the basis of silk and the silkworm cocoons were unwound by hand to produce the thread. Sadly, the silkworms die during the process, meaning the entire life span of a silkworm is only about two months.  It was a very labour intensive business as silkworms are entirely dependent on humans, requiring around the clock feeding on mulberry leaves and controlled temperatures and conditions. The smell wasn’t great either I’m told and I came across one article that suggested some Magnanarelle (a woman who worked in sericulture) kept the silkworm eggs in their clothing to ensure that they hatched.

If you stay in the region today you may come across gîtes called the Courradou (the room where the cocoons were unwound) or Magnanarelle, another tenuous nod to the past.

In 1855 disease struck and although within a decade methods for preventing the disease had been established, the industry never really recovered. Battling with competition from China, and then from synthetic fibres, by the end of the second world war, the industry which had been such a massive part of this region had all but died out.

Les Faugères, in St.Vincent de Barres

Today, you can catch all but a glimpse of this bygone time as you travel deep into the Ardèche. Start your visit with a stay at Les Faugères, in St.Vincent de Barres north west of Montelimar. St.Vincent is an 11^th century fortified village (one of the region’s many ‘village de caractère’) and Les Faugères is a 15^th century house which will plunge you back in time. It’s a delightful gîte but also one of the few places where you can still witness silkworm rearing. They have their own museum and mulberry orchard and run educational workshops, re-enactments and displays.

From St. Vincent, head north and take the D120 west from the banks of the River Rhône. It’s a road that gets increasingly bendy and lofty as it skirts the Vallée de l’Eyrieux but throws out some fabulous views of the hills. At the unpronounceable Les Ollières sur Eyrieux, you can walk down the Dolce Via. It’s an old railway route that’s been turned into a green lane and it cuts its way through the hills overlooking the valley. Far below you see mill after mill, majestic in their decay, while to your right and left you’ll see the occasional farm building which once housed the silkworms. It’s unbelievably quiet and beautiful but it’s not hard not to imagine, the sounds of the ancient trains trundling along this narrow track, filled with local produce and the whirr and buzz of the silk mills below.

The road to Privas

There’s a sericulture museum (Ecomusée du Moulinage) east of Aubenas which gives you a great excuse to explore the region by car. The Ardèche is a place where you’ll find nature and breathtaking views in abundance and for a driving challenge, take the road from Ollières sur Eyrieux to Privas. Winding through the foresty hills I defy anyone not to get car sick. You’ll be twisted to the left, to the right, back to the left and feel like you may actually be driving in complete 360 degree circles as the road climbs and falls and twists and turns through the chestnut, walnut and mulberry trees.

What a welcome sight the pretty town of Privas is when you finally come into land and what a great place to have lunch and recover. La Boria, in the Cour du Palais, has amazing views from the back room out across the hills and valley and serves gourmand standard, locally sourced dishes. It feels like a little oasis in a town which feels distinctly remote.

Take time to savour the onward journey to the museum. At times this road has a distinctly Alpine feel with cattle grazing on the mountain slopes and you just have to stop to admire the views.   The route takes you through the Vivarais Mountains and via the Col de l’Escrinet which at 787 metres high, is a window onto the Languedoc, the Cevennes in the east and the Rhône Valley behind.

There’s another silk museum further south at St Alban Auriolles (Mas Daudet) which also gives you a great chance to explore some of the many ‘village de caractère’ which line the way, such as Vogüé and Ruoms. They’re endlessly charming and this is very much a place where the pleasure is as much in the journey as the arrival.

It’s sad that such a significant industry and way of life should leave such a barely visible mark on the region. But the marks are there and with a little searching it is possible to unearth some of the silk trade’s past here and get a slightly better understanding of what helped shape this beautiful region.

Practical details

Find details of the museums and the Dolce Via at:  Ecomusée du Moulinage at www.ecomuseechirols.fr; Mas Daudet Museum at www.mas.daudet.com
Get there: Valence has a TGV station and it’s possible to get trains from the UK or Paris. Although Valence has an airport, most flights are to Lyon or Grenoble.
For more information about the Ardèche, visit: www.ardeche-guide.com

by Lucy Pitts, deputy editor of The Good Life France and editor of Sussex Exclusive

More on Ardèche

Gorgeous villages, gorges and winding roads –  in the far south of the Rhône-Alpes region, Ardèche flirts with both northern Provence and the Languedoc

The Pont d’Arc – an extraordinary legacy of the Romans in France

Lavender fields, vineyards and medieval villages – the glorious unspoiled Ardèche

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