Straddling the departments of Ille-et-Vilaine, Morbihan and Loire-Atlantique, the Pays de Redon, is the perfect place to go for those who love nature and especially walks and hiking. With rich countryside, lakes and rivers and charming villages, it’s one of the secret places in the north of France that’s just waiting to be discovered…

The port town of Redon

The little town of Redon is full of character with its medieval architecture. Don’t miss the huge Saint-Sauveur Abbey founded in 832, one of the most important abbeys in Brittany in its time. The 17^th century Calvairiennes Monastery, half-timbered houses, and port on the river Vilaine make this a lovely town to visit. Private mansions, salt lofts and other old buildings bear witness to this flourishing period that Redon experienced in the middle ages. Today, the city is charming and tranquil and has a surprising maritime atmosphere.

The thousand-year-old site of Saint-Just

In the middle gorse and heather coats moors, discover an important megalithic site.  Thousand-year-old menhirs, dolmens and mounds make a walk here like a step back in time. Excavations indicate the construction of the dolmens took place between 4500 and 1500 BC. Nearby the forest of Tréal also provides an exceptional setting for a stroll.

The Valley du Don

Known as the land of 7 Rivers, the Vallée du Don is a land of legends where strange shaped rocks abound. The rock of the Carbosse fairy for instance, who put a curse on the land when the locals laughed at her. And the rock of lovers overlooking the  small, winding river Don. A hiking circuit (details from the tourist office of Pays de Redon) leads you through this beautiful valley.

Île-aux-Pies

Île-aux-Pies – Magpie Island in English – is located on the Nantes-Brest canal. A classified Remarkable Site, it’s Ideal for those who love to fish and to do water sports, as well as for walkers with its lovely tow paths.

The Vilaine Valley

This ancient valley was once under sea water, three million years later it’s a lush green haven.. The many rivers that flow into the Vilaine transform the meadows into a large lake during wet seasons. The towpaths enable hikers as well as cyclists to crisscross the ponds, forests and secret paths that border the river: the viaduct of Corbinières, Langon where you will see the beautiful bell tower and pretty chapel with its Gallo-Roman fresco – unique in France, the Grand Pas bridge and the small wrought iron bridges, the village of Brain-sur-Vilaine, Rieux and Béganne…

Some of the Pays de Redon’s best walking routes

The Pays de Redon is home to 7 geocaching routes that are ideal for the whole family. The  fun and educational treasure hunts are available via an app: “Trésors de Haute Bretagne” application.

The Vilaine Valley

Take a walk along the towpath or the GR39, and plan your return by train, or vice versa! The  route runs along the railway line from Rennes to Redon. Discover prehistoric remains in Saint-Just at the Maison “Megaliths and Landes” – open from April to November. Then follow the 7km long interpretation trail through the Cojoux moors which takes around 2h30m.

One of the prettiest walks in the region is the 14km long route from Chapelle-de-Brain to Brain-sur-Vilaine. Alternating ridges and valleys take you to the water’s edge and to hill tops with diverse landscapes. In the rainy season, the floods of the Gannedel marsh are a unique spectacle.

Terre et Vilaine de Béganne

A 17 km of circuit takes you between moors and country lanes, through the port of Folleux, where the sight of fields and sailboats is simply glorious. You can also do it by bike.

The Ruisseau circuit

A lovely 2.5 hour walk that leads from Saint-Just to the Étang du Val where you’ll have 360 ° views over the Château du Val.

Main walking events

March: Rando des Jonquilles in Saint-Jean

April: Hike La Levée des Bosselles in Redon

Beginning of October: the Ronde des Fours in Sainte-Marie

Find lots more details at: www.tourisme-pays-redon.com

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Rennes, the capital of Brittany is a vibrant city, teeming with historical sites and marvellous museums. It’s a city that’s easy to discover on foot, with plenty of places to take a relaxing or delicious break…

Step into the past

Wander the tree-lined, cobbled streets of the medieval district and admire the higgledy-piggledy half-timbered houses with fascinating carvings on the walls and doors.

The colourful, historic centre of Rennes is pickled in the past and it’s not hard to imagine how it looked in the days of the famous Duchess Anne of Brittany and the 14^th century Breton Knight Bertrand du Guesclin. Don’t miss Place Ste-Anne or Place des Lices where on Saturday mornings a market is held. It’s one of the largest markets in France and famous for its fish stalls (Saint Malo is just one hour away from Rennes).

Parliament of Brittany

The 17th century House of Parliament in Brittany is a symbol of the region. Incredibly it’s still active as a law court, and you can take a guided tour.

Indulge in the local gastronomy

There’s loads of choice when it comes to eating out but as this is Brittany, you have to try the local crêperies. Try Creperie les Betises (near the Parc du Thabor – see below) with its wall of jelly sweets and picture postcard ceiling, ideal for families. Or try the tiny Crêperie des Portes Mordelaises whose buckwheat pancakes are loved by the locals. A galette saucisse, (sausage pancake) is a local specialty and totally irresistible. If you’ve got a sweet tooth try the local favourites: parliaments, stuffed with apples and almonds – the locals recommend patisserie Le Daniel.

Les Champs Libres

The large futuristic building of Les Champs Libres is home to a stunning library and culture centre. Theres’s also the Museum of Brittany where you can hear Breton being spoken and explore Brittany’s history and culture. Don’t miss the Science Centre which is also housed in the building. It includes a planetarium and Merlin’s Laboratory, an interactive exhibit for kids. Perfect for a rainy day, for families and culture vultures.

Relax in Parc du Thabor

Parc du Thabor is perfect for a picnic or a relaxing wander. It has a water lily pond, bandstand, aviary and rose garden with more than 2,000 varieties.

Take a dip

The Saint-Georges swimming pool is an Art Deco jewel with preserved changing rooms and mosaic friezes created by the craftsmen of Odorico. Swim here and you’ll also get to enjoy this historical monument plus there are regular exhibitions, concerts and the pool even functions as an aquatic night club from time to time!

Activities to suit all ages

Park Gayeulles in the north east of the city is a great kids playground with wooded areas, ponds and perfect icnic areas. ideal for pastoral picnics. There’s also a tree climbing for all ages and mini golf course.

You can take bike tours, a cookery lesson or play Escape games.

Discover Brittany’s agricultural history at the Ecomuseum

Visit the city’s fam at the eco-museum of the Pays de Rennes. The former Ferme de la Bintinais covers 19 hectares and is a working farm where crops are grown and animals live. You’ll discover 5 centuries of local agricultural history and traditions.

More on Brittany

Visit nearby Dinan, a medieval jewel
Discover the Pink Granite Coast
Explore Saint-Malo
Merlin’s forest in Brittany – Broceliande
More on what to do in Rennes

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Wander through Broceliande, a wizard’s forest in the heart of Brittany. Though there are no signs of ogres or medieval maidens – it is truly magical…

The forest of Broceliande

In the forest of Broceliande, forty miles south-west of Rennes, there is a pile of red slate blocks. Through them grows an ancient holly tree. In its branches are flowers and wreaths of seven times knotted hair.

Wedged into the peeling bark are little anonymous messages. Some are written on slips of paper, some on the back of supermarket receipts. All are addressed to Merlin, the ancient intercessor between man and nature.

The world’s most famous wizard is said to be buried in these sacred Celtic woods.

Since the origins of Celtic mythology fifth and sixth century, and the publication in the twelfth century of the romances of Chretien de Troyes and Elinor of Aquitaine’s poet, Robert of Wace’s “Roman du Brut (1155), the Arthurian legend has fascinated and inspired millions. And mentioned Broceliande. The name appears in Tennysons’s “Idylls of the King” and inspired Tolkien’s region of Beleriand in Middle-Earth.

Some claim that King Arthur is buried in Glastonbury – or Worthyvale in Cornwall. His sword “Excalibur” is meant to lie at the bottom of a pool in the English county’s Bodmin Moor. Camelot has been variously located in Tintagel, Winchester and Roxburgh in Scotland. No one can really say for sure, the details are lost in the mists of memory. But here in France they know where Arthur’s most trusted advisor is. A Breton, his tomb is in the forest of Broceliande.

“Le Tombeau de Merlin” is under an hour away from L’Orient airport.

A wizard in love

Merlin fell in love with one of his students, a fairy called Viviane. She enclosed him in a magic circle and there he stays…

“I don’t think this is his final resting place. He is a spirit. He is everywhere. Not in one place,” said my guide, a professional Merlinologist and official tourist guide for “Le Centre de L’Imaginaire Arthurien” which aims to discover and spread Arthurian knowledge. The centre has several official “Round Table” guides.

“His spirit definitely inhabits the woods. That is why pilgrims come here. They seek guidance. The area is invested with memories of pre-Christian life.”

The forest has lots of well-marked footpaths and is a magical place to walk and feel the spirit of the old wizard. The tomb is indisputably an ancient site of worship. It stands near an old Neolithic gallery grave. The woods contain cromlechs and burial mounds from the Bronze and Iron ages. Water from the Fontaine de Barrenton spills over the Perron de Merlin (Merlin’s steps) into a pool where Merlin reputedly inducted Vivian into necromancy. For centuries locals believed that the water had enchanted properties.

Deeper into the forest, the Pont Dom Jean is believed to be the bridge of the sword crossed by Lancelot to deliver Guinevere. There is also a “Rock des Faux Amants”. The lover who betrayed Morgan, Arthur’s half-sister, and was turned into stone.

Broceliande is a part of Paimpont forest. The misty lakes and bubbling ponds of Les Forges and Perray and the castles of Trecesson and Pas-du-Houx are straight out of the pages of literary romance. The forest contains what many believe is the fountain of Barenton, where Merlin sat on his perron and conjured up a storm.

Golden trees and a lover’s bridge

In 1990, the woods burned for five days. As part of a massive re-plantation scheme, artist Francois Davin created his “L’Arbre d’Or”, a chestnut tree covered with gold leaf and surrounded by five blackened trees.

Our walking tour led us to the Val sans Retour (The Valley of No Return). It’s said the witch Morgane lived here and punished knights who were unfaithful to their ladies.

Surrounded by rocks which – to the guide’s eyes resemble the backbone of a sleeping dragon, we looked into the Miroir-aux-Fees (faerie pool) and sat on Merlin’s seat, a rock formation where he reputedly watched sunsets thinking up new ways of enchanting the world.

A bridge over a river called Pont du Secret is where Queen Guinevere told Sir Lancelot she loved him.

“Faithful lovers like Lancelet who avowed a perfect love for Guinevere can cross it without risk,” my guide explained with a sideways look. “The unfaithful remain as prisoners encaged by invisible walls.”

The church at Trehorenteuc celebrates and symbolizes the fusion of Arthurian legend with Celtic traditions and Christian faith. The mosaics, paintings and stained glass are all the work of a priest, Henri Gillard. The Celtic influence is symbolized by the oaks and acorns in the large stained glass window.

A fairy castle

All the Arthurian tours of Broceliande finish at Comper Castle, former stronghold of the king of Brittany. Here, Merlin is reputed to have created a crystal palace for the faerie Vivian so that none could gaze upon her. It’s believed to be buried in the lake where she is said to have swum with the baby Sir Lancelot after finding him abandoned. It’s why he is called Sir Lancelot of the Lake and she is known as the Lady of the Lake.

“They all come here and try not to look but they all do,” said my guide as we watched a group of schoolchildren looking down into the water.

“Everyone looks, hoping to see Merlin or catch a sight of the Lady of the Lake. They look for a long time. People are convinced they are both down there. They want to believe. It is an entrance to another world. The whole place is a dream world. It has a very otherworldly feel.”

We did not see any white-footed stags ferrying souls to the eternal shores, meet any mad washerwomen, ogres or medieval maiden in white dresses. Apparitions were thin on the ground. No black knights challenged us to mortal combat. But it does feel special…

For further information about guided tours of the area contact Centre L’Imaginaire Arthurien, Comper-en-Broceliande Castle: tourisme-broceliande.bzh/activite/centre-de-limaginaire-arthurien

More on Brittany

Discover the Côtes d’Armor and the Pink Granite coast

7 things to do in Saint-Malo

What to see and do in Dinan

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With its rows of standing stones, Carnac, on the south coast of Brittany, has long fascinated man. Along the northern side of the town, around three thousand standing stones, called menhirs in French, stretch in alignments for several kilometres. The three main alignments are Le Ménec with 1,169 stones, Kermario comprising 1,029, and Kerlescan has 555 stones.

Dolmens, burial chambers of vertical stones supporting a horizontal slab, are also dotted around the countryside, and Carnac boasts the largest grave mound in continental Europe: the Saint-Michel tumulus. Megalithic monuments are everywhere and visiting Carnac you soon become familiar with the vocabulary. The Maison des Mégalithes information centre, beside Le Ménec Alignments, is the place to go for information or to book a guided visit.

Shrouded in mystery

As burial chambers, dolmens and tumuli clearly belong to the universal function of burying the dead. The alignments, however, are still shrouded in mystery. Why did man erect so many menhirs into lines? Folklore, legends and superstitions have abounded for millennia. More recently, archeology and scientific research have thrown some light on the question, but we still don’t really know for sure. Perhaps Carnac was a religious site, perhaps even a place of pilgrimage, or the stones were dedicated or linked to the sun or moon, or formed some kind of calendar for agriculture? However, one thing is certain: given the effort required to remove large pieces of granite from local outcroppings and move them to the site, where they were then wedged into the ground, they must have held an important function in the society that was forming at that time.

Connecting to the past

If the stones could talk, they would have such stories to tell. They were erected between 3,000 and 4,000 BC, during the Neolithic Age, when man evolved from hunter-gatherer to sedentary farmer and started to settle in villages. During this long period there were significant advances in agriculture and tools, that permitted man to grow crops, domesticate animals and shape his environment. The Museum of Prehistory, in the town centre, explains this and is well worth a visit.

I fell under the spell of the standing stones in the early 1990s when I first visited Carnac. Coming from New Zealand, I had never seen anything man-made that old, and it was a moving experience. The stones make an impressive sight in their lines, like sacred sentinels, all similar, yet each one an individual statue with its own unique character. I was amazed how these simple stone shapes, that mimic the upright human form, made me feel connected back in time to very early man and all those who had lived around the menhirs and interacted with them over thousands of years.

The experience was richer because at that time you could wander amongst the alignments and even sit on the stones. No wonder the main alignments were later fenced off in order to protect them from further damage, in particular loosening of the earth at the base of the stones, caused by the ever-increasing number of visitors. These days, if you want to get up close with the stones, visit between October to March when you can freely enter the enclosures. During the high season, however, it is only possible to go on the site by taking part in a guided tour.

During that first visit I spent most of my stay exploring the alignments and also becoming acquainted with Carnac’s tallest menhir, the 6.5 metre high Giant of Manio, sitting alone in woodland, with only a low stone enclosure, Le Quadrilatère, for company. I also got to know the town centre with its square and St Cornély’s Church, tourist boutiques and small galleries.

Carnac Plage

It wasn’t until I returned to Carnac a few years later that I ventured south to the coast to discover a very different side of the town: Carnac Plage, with its long white sand beach, la Grande Plage, where the sky opens and the horizon stretches away – a stark contrast to the alignments, where trees and stone upon stone fill the landscape and anchor it firmly to the ground. I was struck by how Carnac contains the intrinsic duality of Brittany, as the Bretons say: armor, the coast, and argoat, inland, lightly wooded land.

Carnac Plage does have its alignments too, but they’re of a different sort: lines of striped beach tents, little sailing boats across the waves and queues of holidaymakers and locals at the iconic glacier, L’Igloo, watching the waffle cones being made while they wait to have one filled with some of the 170 different ice cream flavours available.

I keep returning to Carnac. Each time I wander around the town centre, sit for a while in the interesting St Cornély’s Church, eat my fill of galettes and moules frites and try yet another flavour at L’Igloo after wandering along la Grande Plage. And I am always drawn back, with the same sense of awe and wonder, to the menhirs, in particular the Giant of Manio, who feels like an old friend now.

Tracy Chollet is the author of Alignment, a 5 Star read and heart-warming tale of overcoming challenges and finding love set in Carnac, Brittany. Find out more at: tracychollet.com

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Port town St-Malo is in the department of Ille-et-Vilaine in northern Brittany. Sitting on the Emerald Coast it has an ancient citadel, medieval city and cobbled streets lined with bars, bistros and boutiques. There are beaches, stunning views, marinas and museums. This is a town with serious oodles of charm.

Follow in the footsteps of famous seafarers and pirates, grab your bucket and spade and head to the beach, enjoy fabulous regional cuisine and – fall head over heels for the maritime magic of St-Malo.

Roam around the ramparts

You can’t visit St-Malo and not take a roam around the ramparts. Construction began in the 12^th century and you can reach them from the steps at the St Vincent Gate. The views from the top are magnificent, especially when there’s a high tide – and they do get high in St-Malo (8-14 metres). On one side the ramparts run around the coastline taking in Quai Saint-Vincent and Quai St Louis and look over the Grande Porte and the battlements of 17^th century Fort National. This historic monument built on a tidal island, was designed by Vauban, Louis XIV’s military engineer, and you can walk out to it at low tide.  Gothic-style buildings, ship-owners houses and cobbled streets lay before you on the other side.

Eating out in St-Malo

There’s not much that beats sitting at a terraced restaurant under the great walls of St-Malo or by Porte Saint-Pierre steaming into a bowl of moules and dipping your chips and hunk of baguette in the juices in the pan.

When you’re in Brittany, it’s pretty much the law to eat crêpes (pancakes). So, it’s no surprise to find that Saint-Malo has plenty of delicious creperies. Crêperie La Touline (6 Place de la Poissonnerie) is a quaint little restaurant in the central area. They serve both sweet and savoury buckwheat crêpes and have a small terrace that’s great for people watching. It’s very popular with the locals both for the crêpes and the homemade ice cream. Bouche en Folie (14 rue du Boyer) is a friendly family run restaurant with a superb menu. It serves delicious fresh sea food, and the locals love it!

Channel your inner pirate

There are several museums in Saint-Malo – including one on a boat.

At the foot of the ramparts visit the Etoile du Roy (Star of the King) – and be an honorary corsair for the day. Etoile du Roy is a replica of a 1745 built frigate. A 3-masted, 47m long boat with 20 cannon guns, on this floating museum you can learn about life on board almost 300 years ago. Great for the whole family.

Grand Aquarium

Meet around 10,000 fish in the Saint-Malo Aquarium. More than 600 species of every shape and colour of fish live here including sharks. Board the ‘Nautibus’ submarine to navigate underwater among 5,000 fish.

Beaches of Saint-Malo

Saint-Malo is famous for its spectacular tides. The difference between high and low tides at Saint-Malo is among the largest in the world. There are vast sandy beaches peppered with rock pools.

Off the coast there are tiny granite islands including one with a fort. Fort du Petit Bé was built in the late 17th century and was armed with 15 guns, including two mortars. Climb to the top and you’ll immediately know why this location was chosen, there are wonderful views all round. You can walk out when the tide is low, otherwise a boat ride is necessary.

La Maison du Beurre Saint-Malo

In the charming cobblestone Rue de l’Orme you will find butter heaven. At La Maison du Beurre Monsieur Bordier sells his world famous butter from a blue painted store front. The famous Brittany butter-maker uses a traditional method of kneading butter using a teak frame and wheel a technique dating from the end of the 19th century. A great take home edible memento – if you bring your cool box.

Near Saint-Malo

Four miles north of Saint-Malo is the former fishing village of Rotheneuf, it’s well worth a detour. In the late 19th century, a priest named Adolphe Julien Foure lived almost as a recluse after a stroke left him deaf and partially paralysed, yet he chiselled hundreds of figures into the huge granite cliffs. Even more extraordinary, he used only a hammer and chisel. It’s an incredible and quite beautiful sight.

More on Brittany

Beautiful beaches of Brittany
Guide to Cotes D’Armor and the stunning Pink Granite Coast
Dinan – one of the most beautiful towns in France

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Brittany has more than 1700 miles of coastline, which makes it a top seaside destination in France. But this region has much more to offer. Medieval cities and picture postcard villages and a hugely diverse landscape both along the coast and in the glorious countryside. There are captivating castles galore, Celtic traditions and more than a dozen towns awarded “petite Cité de Caractère” status. Brittany has a distinctive and delicious cuisine – think succulent seafood, sparkling cider, delicious savoury and sweet an crêpes and much more.

This unique region is brimming with culture, rich in art and history. There are activities galore from golf courses to water sports and hiking the GR34, the famous trail which goes the entire length of Brittany’s coastline. Traffic-free cycle paths, island hopping, the birthplace of thalassotherapy with dozens of welcoming spas. Once you try it, you’ll definitely want to do go back for more.

Brittany is great for families, couples and groups. It’s easy to reach from the UK with several ferry ports along the Brittany and Normandy coast. Easy to drive to from Calais with great autoroutes. And there are trains to major Brittany cities from Paris. It’s a destination that offers something for every type of holiday and every taste.

Top attractions in Brittany

Brittany’s attractions are numerous. There are glorious beaches, seaside resorts, magical forests, stunning countryside, historic towns and the prettiest villages. When you visit Brittany you’ll indulge in some of the best food in France – particularly if you’re a seafood fan. It’s impossible to list all of the many things to see and do, but here are just a few favourites.

Brittany’s Beaches

In places dramatic towering cliffs and rugged rock formations create some of the most spectacular coastal scenery in France. Elsewhere there are beautiful stretches of sandy beaches and hundreds of charming little sheltered bays and inlets, many of which form harbours for Brittany’s traditional fishing villages. From the fabulous Pink Granite coast, where huge rocks have been eroded into fantastic shapes, to the idyllic beaches of Morbihan, many of Brittany’s coastal areas are dedicated to the protection of nature.

Saint-Malo

Saint-Malo is one of the key ferry ports in Brittany but it’s worth a visit in its own right. Great beaches, a historic and charming town and some seriously good restaurants make this a magnet for British tourists and one of the most popular destinations in Brittany.

Quimper

Quimper is the oldest city in Brittany. Originally settled during Roman times, Quimper is most famous for its pottery industry which began in the 17th century. It’s a lively city, fiercely proud of its Celtic heritage and Breton culture.

Locronan

Locronan in the Finistère department is officially one of the most beautiful villages in France. Just a few miles from Quimper, its history goes back 2000 years. The well preserved houses and cobbled streets are a photographers dream.

Rochefort en Terre

Voted favourite village of the French in 2016 – it’s easy to see why everyone loves Rochefort-en-Terre in Morbihan. A medieval chateau, cobbled streets, beautiful half-timbered buildings and artisan shops and everywhere flowers, baskets, troughs, pots, window boxes, the town is filled with flowers!

Port de St Goustan, Auray

In December 1776, the quiet little port town St Goustan received an illustrious visitor. Benjamin Franklin landed here on his journey to meet King Louis XVI to seek assistance in the American War of Independence. Today the historic little town looks much as it did that day. Half-timbered houses, boats bobbing in the port, cobbled streets where little shops and quirky boutiques do a brisk business. Utterly enchanting.

Dinan

Perfectly preserved, medieval Dinan, around 30km from Saint Malo looks like a fairy tale town come to life. It’s winding hills, cobbled alleys and ancient buildings are a magnet for tourists. Enjoy a boat ride, thriving café scene and fabulous weekly market as well as just strolling those oh so pretty streets. Read about Dinan here

Read more about Dinan

Pink Granite Coast

In the department of Côtes d’Armor, the coastline has a unique feature – the unusual and often monumental pink granite rock formations. This is unspoiled Brittany, tiny seaside towns, uncrowded roads, authentic and charming. Guide to Cotes d’Armor

Golfe de Morbihan

A “little sea” that’s almost landlocked and just perfect for a spot of island hopping – it’s said there’s an island for each day of the year in the Golfe de Morbihan. Boat rides, the nearby castle city of Vannes, picture perfect Auray, Carnac with its ancient menhirs – this area has so much to please holiday makers.

www.brittanytourism.com

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Tour of Brittany and Normandy

This is no rush-around-tick-a-box tour. Instead you’ll get to see the most beautiful sites, the legends and icons of Brittany and Normandy. You’ll visit authentic restaurants and creperies, discover the secret bits that most visitors miss, take beach walks, stroll the markets and explore the charming towns which make this area of France so special. There’s not heaps of time in your private vehicle, the tour is organised so that the journey times are kept short and leave you plenty of time to explore. Accommodation is in fabulous boutique hotels and seaside resorts.

What you’ll see on this Normandy Tour

You’ll start in Normandy at historic Rouen and see the Cathedral featured in many paintings by Monet, so awed was he by it’s beauty. Explore the city where Joan of Arc met her sad demise and then take in absolutely gorgeous Honfleur. The enchanting harbour lined with 16^th-18^th century townhouses is a favourite of artists and no wonder. It’s one of the prettiest ports in France.

You’ll dine in wonderful restaurants and enjoy fresh food markets. Stop off in swanky Deauville, famous for its 1920s Boardwalk and a favourite with Parisians who want a seaside sojourn. You’ll also get to see the 900 year old Bayeux Tapestry, one of the most historic documents in the world telling the tale of the Norman Conquest of England in 1066. You’ll visit Omaha Beach and end your Norman journey at the unmissable, magnificent Mont Saint-Michel. This magical island topped by a gravity-defying medieval monastery, is one of the wonders of the world. And, you’ll have lunch at the renowned La Mère du Poulard, following in the footsteps of Marilyn Monroe and Ernest Hemingway who also indulged in the famous crepes made here to the same recipe since 1888.

Then it’s a short journey over the border to Brittany.

What you’ll see in Brittany

You might think nothing will live up to the glory of the Mont, but your first stop is at the medieval time warp town of Dinan, an absolute jewel of Brittany.

Breton cuisine is world famous! Crepes, cakes, seafood and salted butter caramel, did you know salted butter was invented in Brittany? And you’re going to be totally spoiled as you experience the best of this region.

Dinard is the quintessential Brittany seaside town. It’s made many visitors fall in love with its charms from Alfred Hitchcock to Oscar Wilde. Chic and pretty the former fishing village is a joy to explore.

You’ll explore Saint-Malo with its historic walled city and then get off the beaten track to discover the most beautiful seaside towns of the Pink Granite Coast. You’ll go island hopping. Walk on the glorious beaches. Visit exquisite little towns, go to fabulous markets, take in beautiful gardens and much more.

Your tour ends with a visit to Laval, just on the border with the Pays de la Loire, it’s a fabulous town and close to Chartres which you’ll also visit and explore the world famous Gothic Cathedral.

Tours will resume in late 2022.

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When you visit Dinan in the Cotes d’Armor, Brittany, it’s a short journey to the neighbouring village of Léhon. Well worth the detour, picturesque Léhon is historic and full of charm.

From Dinan, you can easily walk to Léhon along the riverbanks of the Rance from Dinan which takes around 30 minutes. Or cycle – there’s a charming towpath along the river. Léhon is a classified “town of Character” first settled by the Roman army 2000 years ago. In fact it’s much older than Dinan which was founded around 1000 years ago.

What to see in Léhon

It’s a very pretty little town and worth visiting to see the 12th century castle ruins – allegedly the oldest castle in Brittany. Recent restoration work to the walls has made it even more impressive.

The streets are lined with 17th century houses. The little bridge over the river is a postcard dream.

And you can also see the Abbey Saint-Magloire. Legend has it that Welsh monks arrived here in the 9th century. Wanting to settle, they asked Nominoë, first king of a unified Brittany for some land. He required them to bring him some relics to place in the church they intended to build. In a remarkably un-Christian display, they looted the relics from monks on the island of Sark and returned triumphant with their spoils to claim the land. Legend has it that “when the monks’ boat, loaded with the relics of Saint Magloire, reached the banks of the Rance in Léhon, the place became joyful and bloomed like paradise.”

The abbey architecture dates to the 11th century onwards. Don’t miss the little tower by the river in which monks were allowed to drink a glass of wine and smoke a pipe on Sundays. Regular art exhibitions are hosted here and there are pretty gardens.

The best things to do in Dinan

Guide to the Cotes d’Armor

www.dinan-capfrehel.com

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Read our guide to Cotes d’Armor Brittany and discover a dramatically beautiful coastline of legends, secret islands, beautiful beaches and fabulous food…

La vie on Granite rose

Someone once said that the great rocks that pepper the landscape of the Pink Granite Coast (Côte de granit rose)  look as if giants have been stoning their enemies. Monumental boulders, cleft from the earth and shaped by the sea. These are one of the most astonishing and memorable features of this divine stretch of coast in the Côtes d’Armor department, Brittany.

Enormous rock formations are everywhere. From the beach to the cliff tops and even in residential gardens. Often homes are simply built around the rocks. Not just because they’re very heavy and hard to move, but also because they’re revered by the locals.

Thousands of years of being licked by the sea, blasted by wind and rained on, have left them shaped like animals or people. Many have names such as the witch, the tortoise and the corkscrew. When you see them for yourself, you can’t fail to appreciate the grandeur of these natural phenomena. And, make up some names of your own.

With hundreds of hamlets, seaside towns and pretty villages it’s hard to know where to go. If you have plenty of time, you can follow the GR34 coastal route. It runs all the way round the shoreline of Brittany. But if you’re restricted to a few days or weeks, here are some of the most unmissable parts of the Pink Granite Coast. Here you’re likely to fall in love with the ever changing sky, the delicious cuisine, endless beaches, luscious countryside, hotels of charm and character (www.hotelscharmebretagne.com) magical forests and friendly folk…

Ploumanac’h – Perros-Guirec

Perros-Guirec has some of the best rock formations on the Pink Granite Coast. You’ll find blush pink rocks, waves crashing gently, and a sleepy seaside village. From here you have a wonderful view of the sept isles, the seven islands, including one which looks like it has a snowy cap but is in fact inhabited by wild birds. It’s gets very popular in the summer months with pretty little restaurants and bars.

Don’t miss a look at the saint on the sand after whom the Bay of St Guirec is named. He was an Irish monk who landed here in the 6th century and you’ll see that his face is damaged. It used to be a custom for Breton girls to visit him and stick a pin in his nose. Apparently this helped them get a husband – but eventually the poor saint lost his nose. Climb out to Ploumanac’h lighthouse for wonderful views over the sea. Though if you have mobility issues it probably won’t suit as the path is rocky and uneven.

Top tip: Head a few miles inland to visit the Vallee des Saints. Many visitors miss this but it’s well worth seeking out. Huge granite statues of saints are spread across a hilltop. It’s an ongoing project with the aim to have 1000 saints in total and you can watch the carvers working on their sculptures. It’s massively impressive.

Where to stay:

Hotel Ti Al Lannec in Trebeuden, a tranquil coastal town. Nothing beats staying in this old granite mansion on top of a hill with a private pathway down to the beach. It has lovey sea views, elegant but cosy sitting rooms, a fabulous spa area, pool with stunning views, and a terrific restaurant. The rooms are individually designed. It’s boutique but authentic and utterly charming. The views from the rooms are to die for. The staff are fabulous. This is old school glamour but with a deft personal touch that’s rare. The staff know all the guests names, there so much attention to detail here. It’s a family run hotel with the charming Isabelle her sister Marie plus mum and dad at the helm. They make you feel really welcome, relaxed and utterly spoiled.

There is nothing ordinary about this hotel, it’s one to fall in love with.

Paimpol and the Ile de Brehat

Pretty Paimpol was once a major departure point for fishermen working in Icelandic waters. Famous French writer Pierre Loti set his novel Pêcheur d’Islande here but today the former fishing port is all about leisure and boats. There are plenty of restaurants and bars but despite its growing popularity it still feels tranquil and sleepy.

Take the road south from Paimpol to discover the Beauport Abbey. The romantic 13^th century ruins are set in beautiful countryside where you can sit in an orchard and simply enjoy the moment – or a picnic.

From Paimpol you can take a 10 minute boat ride to the Ile de Brehat, known as paradise island for good reason. Actually a series of islets set around two small car free islands which at low tide are joined by an 18th century built bridge. Take a 10 minute boat ride from the Pointe de l’Arcouest to discover pink rocks, mimosa, oleander, myrtle and figs growing in the open. It hardly rains here apparently! There are pretty villas, a church and chapel and restaurants joined by a labyrinth of paths.

Where to stay

Ker Moor Hotel in Saint-Quay-Portieux is built around a 19th century house with an astonishing onion-shaped domed roof. It’s a landmark in the area. Right on the GR34, it has a private path down to the sea with unique panoramic views over the Saint Brieuc Bay in Paimpol. From the hotel it’s a short walk to a sandy beach (there are five in the town). There’s a popular free to use sea water pool on the beach. There are also two ports – one of which is northern Brittany’s biggest deep-water harbour. The hotel rooms are light and sunny. The people who work there are lovely – the sort that make your holiday feel really special. The hotel team know where all the best restaurants are (ask them where to go for oysters) and will make you feel very welcomed.

Hotel Les Agapanthes in the small coastal town of Ploubazanec is run by a Parisian couple. They gave up city life, unable to resist the lure of the area where they took their holidays. The little town has a charming port and isn’t remotely touristy. In nearby Pors-Even you’ll find a quaint little village with a cute little seafood restaurant which serves the freshest oysters and best moules frites you’re ever likely to taste.

Dinan, one of the prettiest towns of the Cotes d’Armor

Dinan is a must-see, utterly gorgeous with its cobbled hills, pretty port and glorious architecture. It’s so special – it deserves an article all on its own: The best things to do in Dinan

The bay of Saint-Brieuc and Cap Frehel

The tides at Saint-Brieuc go out an astonishing 7km, leaving the beach teeming with shellfish. Not surprisingly restaurants here are well known for their sea food, especially coquilles Saint-Jacques, one of the specialities of the bay. Port du Légué at the entry of the bay is home to grand ship owners houses. From here you can take a boat ride. Or, simply enjoy the view from the cliffs and watch the wildlife, there are more than 112 species here at Brittany’s biggest nature reserve.

Cap Frehel, about 50 minutes’ drive from Saint Brieuc and just 30 minutes from Saint Malo, is a wild, dramatic and unspoiled area. Imposing cliffs offer stunning views over the sea. It’s no surprise to discover that French visitors rate this one of the top places to visit in Brittany. Covered in colourful heathland, smothered in wildflowers and fauna, Cap Frehel lighthouse is one of the most powerful in France.

The 14th century Fort La Latte, also known as the Chateau de Roche Goyon, is one of Brittany’s most famous castles. It’s very “Game of Thrones”. Dramatically perched on the edge of the cliffs with sheer drops. It’s a bit of a hike to get to it. And, the steps leading into some of the viewing rooms aren’t good for those with mobility issues, however the views are stunning and well worth the effort. Some eagle-eyed oldies may recognise the castle from the Film The Vikings (1958) starring Kirk Douglas and Tony Curtis.

Information: www.dinan-capfrehel.com; www.hotelscharmebretagne.com

Where to stay:

Hotel Edgar Saint Brieuc is in a former ship captains house in the inner town of Saint-Brieuc, about 4km from the sea. It’s a busy town with plenty of shops and some fine old houses and streets. At 5, rue Fardel you’ll see the Hotel des Ducs de Bretagne. This is where King James II of England hid after he lost his throne to William of Orange in 1688. The boutique 25 room Hotel Edgar makes a good base for exploring the area. And it has a fabulous restaurant. I’d go here for the amazing food alone.

Chef Sebastien David is from Le Bristol in Paris and his divine menu will have guests coming from miles around once word gets out. The menu is regional with pride of place going to local, fresh and seasonal products. The verbena ice cream was genius, the best ice cream I’ve ever had – and I’ve had a lot. The rooms are big and roomy with luxurious bathrooms. The hotel has undergone a room by room renovation with Farrow and Ball paints and stunning wallpaper by Arté of Belgium but keeping its original charm and bucket loads of comfort.

Tourist Office: www.cotesdarmor.com; www.dinan-capfrehel.com

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The medieval town of Dinan in Cotes d’Armor, Brittany, is like somewhere from the imagination of the brothers Grimm. It’s brimming with fairy tale pretty streets, guarded by a castle and full of enchanting houses, cobbled hills and pretty squares, surrounded by ramparts built between the 13th to 15th century. Perched on a hill above a gentle river with a pretty little port, if you were to write a wish list for a fairy tale town, Dinan would have it all.

Guide to the best things to do in Dinan

When I went in late spring, which is a great time to go as you won’t find it too crowded, it was unusually overcast for the time of year, but not cold. The clouds didn’t matter. This place is quite simply magical at any time of the year. Quaint higgledy piggledy half-timbered houses lean against one another. They have been hugging for centuries, some of them date back 700 years. Church bells ring and birds sing in the trees. The town has kept its medieval integrity by deliberately limiting traffic lights and road signs so they don’t spoil the views.

Steep streets with amazing views

When you visit Dinan, wear comfy shoes and be prepared to walk or you’ll miss the best of it. Much of the town is pedestrianised which makes it an absolute joy to wander. It’s hilly in places. Rue du Jerzual for instance, which half-way down becomes rue du Petit Fort. It’s one of the most picturesque streets. The cobbles run from the top of the town to the port along the river Rance. But, don’t worry about the steepness, there are plenty of places to stop for a break, a meal and to browse quaint artisan shops. The houses and shops on this street have really wide windowsills. The style dates back to the middle ages. Then, people didn’t go into shops, they bought from the window and the shopkeepers used the sill as a countertop.

Around halfway down this hill, by the Porte de Jerzual (the ancient city gate), is a staircase to the remaining ramparts. Look out for it as it’s easy to just stroll by. It’s open to the public and you’ll get truly great views over the street and town. Most of the 2.7km of ramparts are now privately owned. The city council sold them off many years ago and locals built houses on and against the old city walls and walkways. The chateau of Dinan is still there, but today it’s an interesting museum where you can discover the history of Dinan.

The prettiest streets and squares

Head to the square of Place des Merciers to see some of the most beautiful houses and shops. Take a break in rue de la Cordonnerie. The locals call this street “thirsty street” (rue de la soif) as there are so many bars!

Climb to the top of the 40m high Tour de l’Horloge to enjoy spectacular views over Dinan and the surrounding area. It’s said that on a clear day you can see as far as Mont-Saint Michel.

Basilica of Saint-Sauveur

Behind the Basilica of Saint-Sauveur (a very short walk from the centre of town) you’ll get the most remarkable views over the river Rance. Afterwards visit the church (12th-15th century) to discover a legend. Saint-Sauveur Basilica holds the heart of a French hero – Bertrand du Guesclin. Born in Brittany about 1320, it’s said he was so ugly his family disowned him. He became a soldier and when Dinan was besieged by the English in the 100 Years War he defended the town with his brother Olivier. An English soldier, Sir Thomas Canterbury, kidnapped and ransomed the unarmed Olivier when he took a walk in the countryside. Du Guesclin fought for the return of his brother and won. The English withdrew their forces.

He became a Constable of France (military leader). However, some Bretons considered this a traitorous move because Brittany was not part of France at the time. Du Guesclin requested that when he died he be buried in Dinan. But his remains were taken to the Basilica of St Denis in Paris where French Royals were interred. His heart though, was taken to Dinan. It’s position is marked with a gold heart.

In front of the Basilica is a square with a few bars and restaurants, it’s a quieter part of Dinan, largely frequented by the locals as visitors don’t know it’s here.

Boat trip on the river Rance

One of the prettiest places in Dinan is the port area. You’ll find ancient stone houses, shops and bars looking onto the lofty Lanvalley-Dinan Viaduct which was inaugurated in 1852. Hop aboard the Jaman V boat to cruise the river Rance. You can buy tickets at the tourist office or the ticket kiosk when its open – it’s at a brown cube like hut, next to les Terraces restaurant at the bottom of rue du Petit Fort.

This hour long trip will take you under the viaduct and down to the little town of Léhon. An audio guide is available in English and full of fun facts such as how donkeys used to pull the barges along, but when one wasn’t available, the boatmen’s wives would have to do it. The riverbank is filled with flowers and fauna, including an exotic Japanese plant which looks like a giant rhubarb. First planted in 1917 by a gardener from Léhon, it has colonised the banks of the river. And you can also take a boat to and from Saint Malo to Dinan, or a dinner cruise. Details: www.vedettejamaniv.com

Where to eat in Dinan

Just wander the cobbled streets, you’ll find plenty of choice. There are also lots of restaurants along the river Rance, many with terraces overlooking the Viaduct offering great views.

Le Colibri: I loved this smashing little bistro with a lovely early 20th century vibe interior. The food is sublime – seasonal, fresh and innovative classics. The chefs work closely with local producers. If you love great food – go here.

La Fontaine du Jerzual, on arguably Brittany’s prettiest street, is a creperie, brasserie and tea salon. Enjoy traditional Breton crepes at this lovely restaurant that’s loved by the locals. It’s in a beautiful location, is comfy and stylish inside with a big terrace area for sunny days. It’s not expensive, the staff are friendly and they do a great Kir Breton!

Where to stay in Dinan

Maison Pavie B&B is truly special. Built in the 15th century, this listed building is simply exquisite from its half-timbered, arcaded exterior to its elegant interior with ancient wood floors. There are lots of original features but you’ll find it has all mod cons. It’s not often you’ll sleep in a 600 year old bedroom with a big, luxurious bathroom! The sitting room overlooks the Place Saint Sauveur with its looming Basilica. Owner Jérôme is also a marvellous cook (guests can dine here). He bought the building in 2010 and worked with architects to renovate it renovated to a luxury level with interior design good looks. The house is named after a former owner, French diplomat and explorer Auguste Pavie.

Useful websites

www.dinan-capfrehel.com
Brittany Tourism

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