When presented with good food and wine, the French are apt to break out into song.

Ban Bourguignon may sound like a robust chicken casserole flavoured with red wine but in fact it’s an anthem, a catchy ode that celebrates the French lifestyle. The words go ‘La – La la – La la la lère – La la – La la – La la la la la’. It’s a tuneful round of applause sung in honour of a superb dish or a sumptuous glass of vin, with hands raised above the head – twisting, turning and clapping in time to the rhythm.It’s said the song was born in a bar in Dijon in 1905, the capital of Burgundy, a part of France that has a reputation for the very best in French cuisine and wine.

Dijon – the new French capital of gastronomy

Well, the proof is in the pudding – and you’ll find it at the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin in Dijon.

It’s a bit of a mouthful, and it may sound rather a dry title but I promise you this landmark destination which opened in May 2022, is anything but.

UNESCO added the “Gastronomic meal of the French” to their Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2010. The accolade recognises a thousand-year-old tradition of preparing good food that includes making everyday meals a celebration. The French Government decided to create a venue to showcase and promote French gastronomy and wine, and Dijon was chosen. It has form. UNESCO-listed vineyards, boeuf bourgignon, gougères – and in Dijon library there’s even a specialist collection of food books and menus, more than 30,000 of them.

Homage to wine and gastronomy

The Cité de la Gastronomie et du Vin is on the site of an abandoned hospital built in 1204 along the old Roman road. It has been a landmark for visitors for centuries and now is a landmark for gastronomy. The ancient buildings have been restored and rejuvenated and additional architecturally fabulous buildings created for this foodie city within a city. You’ll find a monumental exhibition space dedicated to food and wine of France and around the world. There are inventive and interactive displays, films, whimsical patisserie showcases, cakes that look like they were made for the land of the giants, team games involving virtual cooking sessions, rooms set out like dining rooms and kitchens and a former chapel dedicated to the UNESCO-listed “Climats” the winegrowing vineyards of Burgundy. Theatrical, flamboyant and fascinating.

Did you know that at 12.30 each day – around 50% of the entire French population will be sitting at a table to eat lunch?! You’ll certainly learn that the French are a nation of epicureans who know how to make a meal of it when it comes to cooking. And you’ll discover just why French gastronomy truly deserves its UNESCO listing.

And that’s not all you’ll find – not by a long way. In this grand homage to the culture of food – there’s more…

Gastronomic village

Themed stores that showcase the best of France including cheese, mustard, charcuterie, seafood, chocolate, bread, cakes and more can be found in this brand new gastro-village. Many of the shops have cooking stations. You choose your food inside, they’ll cook it for you there and then. And you can sit and enjoy it in a superb setting.

There are pop-up bistros, the Experiential Kitchen holds masterclasses with guest chefs, cooking lessons, tasting sessions, cocktail workshops, ‘battle of the chef’ sessions and a fabulous rooftop terrace where barbecue classes are held.

There are also pop up “Degustations” – tasting stalls. When I was there Thierry Marx’s team (yes THE Thierry Marx, the two Michelin Starred chef who is one of the most celebrated chefs in France) were there giving away samples of his divine breads and cakes.

A wine library that’s unforgettable

And when it comes to wine, the Cave de la Cité is in a league of its own. Three floors form a sort of ‘wine library’, 3000 bottles of wine, 250 of them sold by the glass. They range from a few Euros to a lot more when you descend to the Cave des Grand Crus. Here they have some of the most expensive wines in the world – up to a whopping 3000 Euros a bottle. These are the sort of wines most of us will never be able to sip (unless we’re on Government expenses). For instance, I spotted a 2017 Musigny, a Burgundian red that will set you back up to 2000 euros a bottle. But here you can have a taste for a mere 65 Euros for a (small) glass.

There’s also the Ferrandi Paris School of Culinary Arts, the Harvard of Gastronomy, where they teach lessons in English. There are fabulous tableware shops. And there’s a Centre of Heritage and Architecture called 1204 which covers the history of Dijon over the centuries.

A truly scrumptious tribute to glorious gallic gastronomy.

Cite de la Gastronomie and du Vin

More on Dijon

What to see in Dijon
The best museums in Dijon
Dijon in photos
Where to eat out in Dijon
Dijon market
Visit nearby Beaune

How to get there: Trains from Paris to Dijon take 1 hour 34 minutes.

Where to eat: In a city in which gastronomy is revered, it’s hard to know where to go for a great meal, unless you have friends who are prepared to share their tips. I do – and now you do, because I’m happy to tell you my favourite restaurant in Dijon. L’Essentiel is superb. Chef Richard Bernigaud creates seasonal dishes that are on another level on the tastebud scale. The portions are generous, the staff are friendly, the food is superb. I had melon gazpacho as a starter that I won’t forget in a hurry – zesty and zingy. The menu is created for the season and guaranteed to appeal to your inner glutton.

L’Essentiel, 12 Rue Audra, 21000 Dijon

Where to stay: Vertigo Hotel and Spa, a super designer style hotel in the heart of Dijon from where it’s a short walk to the Cité de la Gastronomie et du Vin via the gorgeous public park.

Dijon tourist office

The post Dijon – International City of Gastronomy and Wine appeared first on The Good Life France.

Tracing the route of one of the most popular films ever made in France – to Beaune, wine country extraordinaire…

If you’ve ever wondered where the French people go on holiday in France, the simple answer is – all over the country. It’s got such a varied offering, there really is something to suit everyone. I can also tell you that many French people dream of visiting Beaune in Burgundy. For the wine, for the glorious countryside, history and culture and for another reason that is largely unknown outside of France.

Film star Burgundy!

Beaune stars in one of France’s most popular films: La Grande Vadrouille (vadrouille means to gad about or gallivant). It’s a comedy that follows the fortunes of some hapless British Airmen (including the moustachioed English actor Terry Thomas) dropped over Paris by parachute during World War II. They lose their way and are aided by a workman, the conductor of the Paris orchestra and a pretty Parisienne puppeteer. Eventually they escape to Burgundy. There a nun from the famous Hospices de Beaune joins the gang. The film was released in 1966, and it’s said that the entire population of France over the age of 16 have watched it at least once!

Trace the footsteps of the film’s stars in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or department. En route you’ll discover the most authentic, beautiful and delicious parts of Beaune and its surroundings. This is an unspoiled area and just perfect for a road trip. The people are friendly, the food is fabulous and the wine is exquisite. And there are many surprises…

The Petite Vadrouille

I joined a Petite Vadrouille tour which kicked off at the Hospices de Beaune, the famous former hospital for the poor in the heart of the city. Founded in 1443, nursing was provided by nuns called the Hospitalier Soeurs de Beaune. The tour included an exquisite dinner in the King’s Room, originally a bedroom created for Louis XIV. He visited the Hospital in 1658, but didn’t sleep here as intended. Instead he headed to what is now the Hotel le Cep just around the corner.

The “sisters” were there to join the party complete with authentic coifs – their famous wing-like headwear. In the film, it was here in the distinctive ancient hospital beds that the fugitive airmen hid in plain sight. The Hospices looks much as it did 600 years ago. The glittering tiled roof you can only see from the vast courtyard, gargoyles hanging from the historic wooden ceilings, stunning artworks, religious artefacts, an ancient kitchen and pharmacy.

10km away, a major part of the film took place in the charming town of Meursault. The townsfolk are proud of the old fashioned fire engine that appeared in the film and it is now displayed in a showcase outside the chateau-like town hall!

UNESCO-listed vineyards

This whole area is in the heart of the UNESCO-listed vineyards of the Côte d’Or known as the Climats of Burgundy. The Climats are a series of 1247 vineyards that form a ribbon of vineyards which run about 60km from the gastronomic city of Dijon to the south of Beaune, where there is a Maison des Climats exhibition centre.

These vineyards are the legacy of a tradition of viticulture dating back as far as 2000 years. Small parcels of land shaped by man to grow vines and make wine that reflects that every parcel of land is unique. Some vineyards are just a few acres in size. Others are considerably larger. Each vineyard is precisely defined and named. The names have Celtic, Gallic, Latin and German roots. They record the influence of those who worked here and helped shape the landscape. Les Casse-Têtes in Meursault for instance, which means ‘brain teaser’, indicating the hardness of the soil and the difficulty of planting vines here!

One of the best known is the Clos de Vougeot. This is the headquarters of the Climats de Bourgogne and seat of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin. It was built in the 12th century by monks from the nearby Abbey of Cîteaux. And there is a 16^th century château where you can discover more about the Climats, wine and Burgundy, and enjoy a 5-wine tasting.

Famous names and a wine-powered bike!

Each plot is influenced by its own unique terroir – the French word that’s impossible to translate into English. It refers to the growing conditions – the soil, the grapes, the local climate, know-how, altitude, exposure to sun and rain, and local vegetation. This is an area that produces some of the best wines in the world. Names like Montrachet, Romanée-Conti, Clos de Vougeot, Corton, Musigny, and  Chambertin. And there are many cellars where you can stop for a tasting including some of the most prestigious domaines – Chateau de Meursault Chassagne-Montrachet, Le Chateau de Saint Aubin and Domaine Joillot Pommard. At Maison Olivier Leflaive you can even tour the vineyards by bike. Not just any old bike, a wine powered bike! Seating 12, sip the finest wines as you pedal!

A bird’s eye view

There’s no better way to appreciate this patchwork of vines than from the air. We took to the skies in a helicopter and got a birds eye view of the landscape. You’ll see a tapestry of vineyards, peppered with tiny stone huts, paths trod for thousands of years, stone walls, mills and castles. The countryside around is glorious and after the helicopter dropped us off in a vineyard for  a picnic and wine tasting, we set off to discover the Cirque du Bout du Monde – the Circus at the end of the world. It’s a unique mountainous part of Burgundy. It’s also a classified site of outstanding natural beauty. It’s a memorable experience to stand under a 40 metre high waterfall, surrounded by vineyards.

It doesn’t matter if you’ve never seen the film, a tour of Beaune and its surroundings is a soul-soaring experience.

Tour details: lapetitevadrouilledebourgogne.com

How to get there: Trains from Paris to Beaune via Dijon (TGV fast train) take around two hours.

Where to stay: Hotel le Cep, a luxurious and charming hotel with a Michelin starred restaurant, fabulous bar. Parts of it date to the 14^th century and it has two listed 16^th century courtyards.

Beaune Tourist office

The post Visit Beaune and the surrounding area appeared first on The Good Life France.

The region of Burgundy-Franche-Comté boasts traditional French gastronomy and world class vineyards as well as castles, majestic churches and charming villages. It also shares first place with the region of Occitania (Languedoc-Roussillon, Midi-Pyrénées) for the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites…

Burgundy’s UNESCO World Heritage sites

The Climats du Vignoble de Bourgogne

Awarded UNESCO World Heritage List status in 2015, the Climats du vignoble de Bourgogne (Burgundy) vineyards are recognised as a “cultural landscape.” They embody “the combined works of nature and man and express a long and close relationship between the people and their environment”.

Don’t be deceived by the term “Climat”. It doesn’t mean climate or weather in this instance. Instead it is a local word for a specific plot of vines with a precisely defined border, producing wine with a unique taste and which bears its name. There are more than 1,200 Climats across the entire listed area. They lie between Dijon and the Maranges and south of Beaune. The “Climats” are the result of a unique combination of a 2000 year old cultural heritage. It’s a diverse landscape that reflects the know-how of the wine growers. The area features stone walls and shelters in the vineyards, winegrowers’ houses in the villages and monuments in the towns of Dijon and Beaune.

Cistercian Abbey of Fontenay

Founded in 1118, the Cistercian Abbey of Fontenay is one of the oldest abbeys in France. It is the only one founded by Saint Bernard which has remained intact.

The abbey was officially recognised for its valuable contribution to humanity in 1981. It went through a brief transformation as a paper mill during the French Revolution – thanks to the Montgolfier family of hot air balloon fame. Despite this and having welcomed millions of visitors over the centuries, it has retained a mystical charm. Incredibly almost all of the original buildings have survived intact. They include the church, dormitory and refectory. Saint Bernard designed the abbey to represent the Cistercian principles of simplicity, self-sufficiency and usefulness. Its Romanesque lines are pure and symmetrical with no decorative elements. It makes for a uniquely harmonious look and feel – it’s very spiritual. abbayedefontnay.com

Basilica and hill of Vézelay

An hour west of Fontenay brings you to another UNESCO listed abbey, and town. The village of Vézelay is a classified “Sanctuary city in France.”  Together with the 17 communes that surround it, it’s also a classified ‘Grand Site de France.’

Winding streets are lined with Renaissance houses and 17th and 18th century buildings with sculpted doorways. The Basilica sits atop a hill at the end of the main street above the ramparts. Known as the “Eternal Hill” it has played its part in the history of Burgundy, acting as a beacon to welcome and guide pilgrims and crusaders.

Shortly after its foundation in the 9th century, the Benedictine abbey of Vézelay claimed to have acquired the relics of St Mary Magdalene. Since then it has been an important place of pilgrimage, not to mention a great spot to overlook the Morvan Valley. destinationgrandvezelay.com

Chapel Notre-Dame du Haut, Ronchamp

The chapel Notre-Dame du Haut, the pilgrim’s shelter, the chaplain’s house and the pyramid of peace were built by architect Le Corbusier (1887-1965). They have been listed as UNESCO’s World Heritage sites since July 2016 along with 16 other Le Corbusier sites. The chapel, built in 1955 was criticised by some. Others recognised that it heralded an architectural revolution. Le Corbusier designed the chapel furniture and even painted some pieces. www.collinenotredameduhaut.com

Church of Notre-Dame, La Charité-sur-Loire

La Charité-sur-Loire was once an important port originally called Seyr. However in the 11^th century, the monks of the local abbey grew such a reputation for kindness to pilgrims that locals started to call it La Charité. And the name was officially changed. The monks church was the second biggest in France at the time, after the mighty Abbey of Cluny. A fire in 1559 destroyed a large part of it though it still has four of its five original naves, which were rebuilt in 1695. The Church is famous thanks to its sculpted decor. Pillars, capitals, lofty arcades and the bestiary are all typical of Cluny’s richly inspired architecture. In 1998, Notre-Dame church became a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is a major stage on the “Route of Santiago de Compostela”. lachairtesurloire-tourisme.com

UNESCO treasures of Franche-Comté

The post The UNESCO listed treasures of Burgundy appeared first on The Good Life France.

The city of Dijon, capital of Burgundy is a fabulous visit for lovers of great food, architecture, wine, history, markets – everything in fact that makes for the best French city breaks.

With its cobbled streets, grand squares, one of the best markets in all of France, loads of free museums and amazing restaurants and wine bars –  here is Dijon in photos so you can see for yourself, just how brilliant it is.

Place Francois Rude

The cobbled Place Francois Rude looks as if its been there since time immemorial but in fact was built in the early 20^th century. Named after local sculptor, born close by, who is famous for creating one of the facades of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, it’s also known as Place du Bareuzai by the locals. It takes its name from the statue of a naked vineyard worker stomping the grapes, known in Burgundian as a bareuzai.

Musée des Beaux Arts

A museum in a palace. Yes, you read that right. It’s a free museum with more than 50 rooms packed full of treasures. It includes priceless paintings from  many of history’s greatest artists from Franz Hals to Monet to Picasso. There’s contemporary art, sculptures, furniture and heaps more. This is without a doubt one of France’s most stunning museums. You’ll find it in the former Palace of the Dukes…

Palais des Ducs

In addition to the Fine Arts Museum in the Palace of the Dukes, you can also visit the underground medieval kitchens. And don’t miss the hall of the tombs of the Dukes. Immense 15^th century funereal sculptures, with the likeness of the Philip the Bold (1342-1404) and his son John the Fearless (1371-1419). Surrounded by statues of mourners, the detail of each is incredible, choir boys, priests, monks, people who worked for the Dukes with expressions of sorrow.

In one of the oldest parts of the Palace, the 15^th century Tour of Philippe le Bon offers fabulous views over the city.

Place de la Liberation

The Palace of the Dukes with its majestic façade overlooks the Place de la Lib as locals call it. The square was created in the late 1600s and was named Place Royale when architect Jules-Hardouin Mansard (1646-1708) took on the job of renovating the Palace in Dijon. His work includes the Great Trianon at the Chateau of Versailles, and the domed Chapel of Les Invalides. It’s a grand square in every sense of the word. It once held a bronze statue of Louis XIV that was so big, it took 30 years to get it there from Paris and was melted down just 60 years later during the French Revolution. Lined with bars and restaurants, filled with fountains, popular with locals as much as visitors.

Dijon Market

The indoor market, Les Halles, is magnificent. Beautiful wrought ironwork inspired by plans proposed by the Eiffel company in 1868. Gustave Eiffel was in fact born in Dijon. It’s a fabulous market. It’s crammed with stalls selling local specialities from gingerbread to paté, fruit, vegetables, wine, cakes, cheese including the local stinky epoisses and all manner of tempting food. Take a basket (or two).

Musée Rude

Dedicated to the works of Francois Rude the museum is in the former 11^th century church of Saint-Etienne. The display includes a cast of his Arc de Triomphe sculpture, La Marseillaise. It’s free to enter.

A Library fit for Harry Potter

Dijon’s municipal library was once a Jesuit college, founded in 1701. It has an immense collection of old books, ancient globes, magazines, recipes and more. The student’s reading room looks like it wouldn’t be out of place at Hogwarts.

The Church of Notre Dame

The 13th century Gothic church of Notre-Dame is awash with gargoyles. It’s famous in these parts for its little stone owl, carved into the wall on the corner of the church. According to locals when you pass, you must rub the owl with your left hand – it will bring you good luck. And yes, I did do it!

Be wise – follow the Owls trail!

In French the Parcours de la Chouette – the owls trail is the city’s walking trail. It will take you through Dijon, past its famous monuments, medieval streets and places of interest.

Where to eat in Dijon – it’s gastronomically fabulous!
The best museums in Dijon
What to see and do in Dijon

Useful websites

Dijon tourist office: www.destinationdijon.com; Burgundy-tourism.com; www.ukfrance.fr

The post Dijon in photos appeared first on The Good Life France.

Dijon, capital of Burgundy, is a city of culture, history and exquisite architecture, a living museum in itself. There are so many cultural venues to visit, it’s hard to know where to begin. Surrounded by vineyards and stunning countryside, it really is an absolute jewel of a French city. Plus there are fabulous restaurants and wine bars and one of the best markets in France – this is one city you really do need to put on your list. It’s just an hour and a half from Paris by train so if you must, a day trip is easy to do, but a longer trip is recommended. It’s the sort of place you go to once and you know you’ll have to come back, once just isn’t enough.

Culture vultures will adore the many brilliant museums in Dijon, most of which are totally free…

Best Museums in Dijon

Musée de Beaux Arts

The Palais des Ducs is now home to the magnificent and monumental Museum of Fine Arts. Founded in 1787, it’s one of the oldest museums in France. Like all public museums in Dijon it’s free to enter. You reach it via the lavish hall of the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy (top photo), formerly the guards room, and that is your first inkling of just what a treat you’re in for. Jewels of 15th century funerary art, the tombs of Philip the Bold and John the Fearless are extraordinary with their namesakes represented by lifelike statues held up by incredibly detailed Mourners. I could stare at them for hours – the more you look, the more you see.

The museum has around 50 rooms of priceless treasures dating from antiquity to modern day with some fabulous works by Yan Pei-Ming, Monet, Manet and so many renowned artists it’s incredible. I loved the religious artworks, the detail is astonishing and so well preserved, they look as they did hundreds of years ago.

The museum has undergone a major renovation and reopened in May 2019. Director David Liot told me that the renovation was a challenge “it’s a heritage space so we had to be very careful but it was dingy before and we needed to make it accessible to all”. The flow of the exhibits is vastly improved, there are two new spaces and the rooms are filled with light so you can truly appreciate the artworks. The walls are coloured to enhance your experience, I loved the Pinot Noir colour – it really made the paintings pop. Put this museum on your must-see list, if you don’t, you’ll be missing out on an incredible opportunity to see one of the finest museums in France (for free).

Plus…

You could easily spend an entire day at the museum (and then some). So, take a break at the Brasserie des Beaux Arts restaurant within the museum complex. You’ll find seriously good eats, a fabulous menu of local, seasonal dishes, and a great wine list. It makes visiting even more fun! (Open for lunch only).

Afterwards pop to the pretty courtyard behind the museum and relax in the tranquil Place des Ducs. A statue of Philippe Le Bon looks over what was once the garden of Marguerite of Flanders, wife of Phillipe le Hardi (bold).

Musée Rude

His name might not ring a bell but you almost certainly know of his work. Francois Rude, son of Dijon (1784-1855) was the sculptor of La Marseillaise on the Arc de Triomphe amongst much else. You can see some of his main works in the form of casts in the museum dedicated to him in the former Saint Etienne Church (free to enter). It is a quite beautiful place and totally deserves its place in the best museums of Dijon list.

Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne

Just one more museum you mustn’t miss though there are several more. If you can, squeeze in a visit to the quirky Museum of Burgundian Life (free). The reconstructions of 19th and early 20th century Burgundian shops are brilliant – hat shops, photography, chemists, filled with bits and pieces from the day. Read our full review here.

Visit a gingerbread museum

Channel your inner Hansel and Gretel and head to Mulot & Petitjean’s gingerbread museum and factory. It’s just outside the city centre, a 20 minute walk or take the bus which takes a few minutes. The presentations take you through the history of the firm, founded in 1796, and gingerbread with some innovative museography. Portraits which come to life and a collection of artefacts. You also get to see the gingerbread being made (unless you’re there on a machine cleaning day).

Afterwards enjoy the gorgeous vintage shop and if you want to take home a truly memorable treat, take a trolley as the 6kg gingerbread cake is not easy to get in your handbag I discovered. Details: www.mulotpetitjean.com

Le Consortium

Art lovers will adore this contemporary art venue in a former cassis factory. More than 400 pieces in an ever growing collection which dates mainly from the 1970s. It’s a beautiful space and a thought provoking selection. Don’t miss the book shop with its innovative moveable bookshelves and reading area. Le Consortium publishes around 50 art books a year. And if you’re lucky enough to be there on a day when they have a cinema showing in their private cinema or a music event – you’re in for a treat. www.leconsortium.fr/en

Bibliotheque Patrimoniale

Hogwarts fan? You’ll love the city library. Once a Jesuits College, it became a library in the 17th century. Groups can take a tour of the whole building with its beautiful wood panelled rooms and painted ceilings.

Game of Thrones writer George RR Martin visited and loved the enormous 18th century globe. There are more than 500,000 books, the earliest of which date back to the 9th century. There’s also a specialist collection of food books and menus, more than 30,000 of them.

Anyone can access the reading room.  I felt as if I would spot Harry Potter under the twinkling lights, studying for his wizard’s exam.

Musée Magnin

Housed in a stunning 17th century mansion house in the heart of the city, the Magnin Museum houses a beautiful collection. Paintings, sculptures, furniture and more. Plus there are regular temporary exhibitions.

Dijon Parliament

The former Parliament building of Dijon is now a working law court. It was from here that the Parliament of Burgundy sat. Though the Palais de Justice, as it now is, is in use as a court of appeal, you can still enter. There’s not much to see inside, the grand hall is accessible but the side rooms are closed to the public. But it’s worth seeking out for that extraordinary door.

Musée Archeologique

The main wing of the former Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Bénigne now houses the collections of the archaeological museum. It’s a small but impressive collection, especially the Roman artefacts and the building is worth a visit in its own right.

Maison Millière

Not strictly a museum, but Maison Millière, a half timbered house dating to 1483 is historic and well worth a visit. “It was built 9 years before Christopher Columbus discovered America” says the charming owner Phlippe Bernard (above right). Some might recognise it from the film Cyrano de Bergerac with Gerard Depardieu. It has a lovely courtyard filled with plants and frescoes, a tea room and wine bar downstairs, upstairs restaurant reached by an impressive wooden staircase and shop selling local products and souvenirs. Find it at 10, rue de la Chouette, right by the magic owl of Dijon!

Now all this culture and fabulous sites are sure to make you hungry. Lucky for you, you’re in the perfect city to indulge – Dijon is a feast for the senses in every way: Where to eat out in Dijon

More on Dijon

What to see and do in Dijon
Dijon Market – one of the best markets in France
en.destinationdijon.com; UKFrancefr

The post The best museums in Dijon Burgundy appeared first on The Good Life France.

Winter is a great time to visit Burgundy. Its vineyards are known throughout the world and a little chill in the air adds something to the sublime wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-St-Georges, Vosne-Romanée and Chablis, to name just a few. And, there’s plenty of things to do in winter in Burgundy…

Dijon

Dijon, the capital of the Cote d’Or department, is an ideal town to visit in Winter and a great base from which to explore the vineyards and valleys. This town is perfect for those who love great architecture, culture, food, wine, street markets and friendly folk. There’s the fabulous and free to visit Musée des Beaux Arts to Le Consortium Arts Centre and plenty more art venues and museums in between – including a gingerbread museum. You could easily spend two days just on culture. But you’d miss out on the chance to dine in some of the finest restaurants in France. This really is a city that takes food seriously as you’ll discover if you visit the glorious market.

And then there are the fabulous wine bars like funky Monsieur Moutarde – nothing to do with mustard despite this being Dijon. With its roof terrace and quirky rooms, it’s perfect for a glass of wine of local aperitif Kir. It was invented by a former Mayor of Dijon – wine and cassis (preferably from a local cassis producer!).

Read more about what to do in Dijon; read more about where to eat out in Dijon.

Beaune

Beaune makes for a great base to tour the local countryside and the vineyards of the Route des Grands Crus. The city has a beautiful old centre with cobbled streets and is terrific for wandering. Let yourself  get lost in its winding streets and enjoy the wonderful architecture. The must-see place is the Hotel Dieu founded by Guigone de Salins and her husband Nicolas Rolin in 1443. On the third week-end of November the 3 Glorieuses take place. Festivals, concerts, cellar opening and a unique charity wine auction. The proceeds fund the local hospital’s equipment and the hotel-dieu’s conservation.

In Beaune you’ll enjoy plenty of choice for great restaurants. Of course Boeuf Bourguignon is a firm favourite as well as coq au vin made with Burgundy wine. Ideal winter dishes and perfect with a glass of robust red.

Take a wine tasting: Sensation Vin in the town, open year-round. Perfect for novices or experts, and tastings are from 1.5 hours in a 10th century cellar to a day in the vineyards. (sensation-vin.com)

Wine and dine: Hotel Le Cep, an institution in Beaune. Gastronomic dishes and 70 different wines by the glass in a historic 16th century mansion (hotel-cep-beaune.com).

Stay at: Les Jardins de Lois, 5-minute walk from the Hospices and town centre. Authentic, cosy and tranquil B&B in a characterful house with rooms named after vineyards and owned by local wine makers the Dufouleurs. (jardinsdelois.com)

Wine tasting

Lots of winegrowers open their cellars to the public in winter. You can follow several wine routes through frosty countryside. You’ll pass wonderful little villages with cosy cafés as you follow the Route of the Rineyards of Yonne though the Serein Valley, famous for its Chablis wines. Take the Rourte de Crémant through the little known Pays Châtillonnais, renowned for its sparkling wines. It’s a land of castles and abbeys, churches and pretty villages. Don’t miss the Museum of Pays Châtillonnais. Open year round, it houses the incredibly preserved burial treasures of the Lady of Vix, dating to around 500 BC.

There’s also the Côte Chalonnaise Great Wine Route which takes in the vinueards planted by monks more than a thousand years ago. And the Mâconnais-Beaujolais Wine Route wends its way through south of Burgundy and the Saône Valley. Finally, the Routes des Grand Crus which takes you through to the vineyards of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beane.

Find out more about cellars that are open to the public on the Vins de Bourgogne website: vins-bourgogne.fr

Festival fun

The colourful festival of Saint Vincent Tournante honours the feast day of St. Vincent, patron saint of wine. The festival is held on the weekend closest to the Saint’s Day 22 January. The event attracts thousands to enjoy a choreographed collaboration between the Brotherhood of Tastevin, the Church and local wine making societies.

In Novemner in Noyers-sur-Serein, a medieval jewel of a village, the town comes to life with a truffle market that’s famous throughout Burgundy (details: www.noyers-et-tourisme.com/).

Whilst in Bresse, famous for its plump, tasty chickens, said to be the best in France, a December competition is held. The annual Glorieuses de Bresse attracts visitors from all over France.

Useful websites

Burgundy Tourism: www.burgundy-tourism.com/; Dijon Tourism: www.destinationdijon.com/

The post Things to do in winter in Burgundy appeared first on The Good Life France.

If you love cities filled with beautiful, historic buildings. If you love fantastic food and wonderful wines. And if you love museums, galleries, sitting at terraced cafés watching the world go by as you sip a delicious local wine, impossibly fabulous street markets, great wine bars and a vibrant friendly vibe – then add Dijon to your must see list. This amazing city has all these things by the bucket load… and more.

What to do in Dijon

Well first of all, get your comfy shoes on because this is a city that’s just perfect for a flâner, the French term for wandering and just soaking it all in…

Cobbled streets, grand squares, half-timbered houses, a huge palace, narrow alleyways lined with medieval buildings and even a magic owl. But, this is a small city so don’t worry, you won’t have to walk too far or too long to fit it all in. There’s something to see on every corner…

Rub the magic owl and make a wish

On the wall of the medieval 13^th century Notre Dame church is a small stone owl. No one knows why he’s there and to be honest, you can hardly tell he’s an owl because for centuries the locals and passers by have rubbed their left hand over him for luck. If you don’t know he’s there it looks very odd as he’s quite high up and people will be just walking along and suddenly veer over to the wall, put their left hand up, rub the wall and carry on…

But, don’t forget to look up when you get to the front of the church, there’s an extraordinary clock on top. Four metal automatons strike the hours. Jacquemart was the first to arrive. He came from Belgium in 1382. Jacqueline was added to keep him company in 1651. And in 1714 they had a boy named Jacquelinet and in 1844 Jacquelinette, a girl.

Pick up a leaflet from the tourist office for the owl trail (Parcours de la Chouette). It indicates 22 markers of historic sites and it you follow the whole thing, it takes around 2 hours at a relaxed pace, and you’ll get to see the main sites of Dijon.

Palace of the Dukes and States of Burgundy

The former colossal residence of the immensely wealthy Dukes of Burgundy and seat of government in the region under the Ancien Régime (pre French Revolution). It’s an imposing sight which makes the Place de la Liberation where it is, all the more exquisite. It now houses the town hall, the ancient kitchens can be visited and there are courtyards you can use to make your way round Dijon or simply to sit and enjoy the views.

Musée de Beaux Arts

The Palais des Ducs also home to the magnificent and monumental Museum of Fine Arts. Like all public museums in Dijon it’s free to enter. You reach it via the lavish hall of the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy, formerly the guards room, and that is your first inkling of just what a treat you’re in for…

beaux-arts.dijon.fr/

Musée Rude

You may not know his name but you almost certainly know of his work. Artist Francois Rude created the La Marseillaise sculpture on the Arc de Triomphe. You can see some of his work in the former Saint Etienne Church (free to enter).

Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne

Don’t miss this one if you love vintage shops as this quirky free Museum of Burgundian Life has superb reproductions of hat shops, photography stores, chemists and all sorts.

Place de la Libération

The Place de la Liberation is essentially the main courtyard of the Dukes of Burgundy and it has to be one of the biggest in the world. It’s set out on a semi-circular arrangement so that wherever you are, you’re facing the place. It was designed by Hardouin-Mansart, the architect of Versailles, and built by one of his pupils, Robert de Cotte, between 1686 and 1701. Lined with restaurants, shops and bars, it’s a big hit with the locals as much as visitors. It doesn’t matter if you go first thing in the morning as I did and sat sipping coffee watching a lone pigeon waddling about, or in the day or evening, as I did with an aperitif watching kids play in the fountains, listening to church bells ring enjoying the sight of strollers simply enjoying the square.

Les Halles – The covered market

This has to be one of the best markets in all of France. For a start the covered market is stunning – all wrought iron and wide open spaces. It’s said to have been inspired by son of Dijon, Gustave Eiffel. The smells, the sights, the sounds – they’re as much a cultural experience as any museum.

Stop off at the stall of Le Gourmet Traiteur www.legourmet-traiteurdijon.com for a treat and a true taste of Dijon. Run by three chefs who make everything from pies to tarts, cakes to gingerbread and even a gateau moelleux (sounds like cake and it is but with a snail filling, bit of an acquired taste if you ask me). I had to be dragged away from their nonnettes. The market spills out into the streets around and if you like food, you’ll love the quality produce here.  This market made me want to live in Dijon.

Les Halles is open Tuesday, Thursday (inside only), Friday, Saturday.

Le Consortium

Art lovers will adore this contemporary art venue in a former cassis factory. More than 400 pieces in an ever growing collection which dates mainly from the 1970s. It’s a beautiful space and a thought provoking selection. Don’t miss the book shop with its innovative moveable bookshelves and reading area. Le Consortium publishes around 50 art books a year. And if you’re lucky enough to be there on a day when they have a cinema showing in their private cinema or a music event – you’re in for a treat.

www.leconsortium.fr/en

Visit a gingerbread museum

Channel your inner Hansel and Gretel and head to Mulot & Petitjean’s gingerbread museum and factory. It’s just outside the city centre, a 20 minute walk or take the bus which takes a few minutes.

www.mulotpetitjean.com

Dijon Mustard

You didn’t think I’d get through talking about Dijon without mentioning mustard did you? They’re very keen on it here to the point where you can visit a mustard shop or several for your mustard fix. I fell in love with the taste bar at Moutard Edmund Fallot with its mouth-watering mixes – cassis, pinot noire and basil to mention just a few. They even had mustard dispensing machines, pop in a euro and pick your favourite and out pops a dinky little pot of yummy mustard.

www.fallot.com

Tour Philippe le Bon

For a panoramic view over the city and surrounding countryside, climb the 316 steps of the 15^th century Tour Le Philippe le Bon. It’s said that on a clear day you can see Mont Blanc.

Bibliotheque Patrimoniale

Once a Jesuits College, it became a library in the 17^th century and groups can take a tour of the whole building with its beautiful wood panelled rooms and painted ceilings. There are more than 500,000 books, the earliest of which date back to the 9^th century. There’s also a specialist collection of food books and menus, more than 30,000 of them. Anyone can access the reading room.

Now all this culture and fabulous sites are sure to make you hungry. Lucky for you, you’re in the perfect city to indulge – Dijon is a feast for the senses in every way.

Read about Dijon’s delicious gastronomic scene
The museums of Dijon
Dijon in photos 

Take a selfie

You’re truly spoiled for choice here but my personal favourite was the Mulot & Petitjean Gingerbread shop!

Getting around

There’s a good tram system and buses too. You can buy tickets…

Where to stay

I stayed at the Residence Le Pré aux Clercs, right in the heart of the city, literally a 10 second walk to the Place de la Libération. A boutique B&B with just five rooms, I loved feeling like a local staying here and being so close to the centre of the city: www.lepreauxclercs.fr

How to get to Dijon from Paris

The train from Paris takes just 1.5 hours which makes this a very easy day trip destination. But, you don’t want to just go for one day – two is much better as there’s simply so much to see and do.

Useful websites

Dijon tourist office: www.destinationdijon.com; Burgundy-tourism.com; www.ukfrance.fr

The post What to see and do in Dijon, Burgundy appeared first on The Good Life France.

Dijon is foodie central. Seriously food is on everyone’s lips, not literally of course, but its the most popular topic of conversation – or at least that’s what it feels like. People in Dijon LOVE good food so there are plenty of eateries from magnificent Michelin starred restaurants to tasty budget bistros. Here’s where to eat out in Dijon – whether its for lunch, dinner or a glass of wine!

Where to eat out in Dijon

Restaurants the locals love for lunch in Dijon

Brasserie des Beaux arts: Savvy locals have sussed this one out in its superb location inside the courtyard of the Musée des Beaux Arts in the former Ducal palace. Chef Fred Guilland (above top right) says: “Regional, seasonal, weather, local products – these are my guides” as he prepares exquisite dishes for the lunch time crowd. He uses incredible spices in his classic and creative dishes and personally visits the farms where the produce comes from. “Knowing where the food comes from is essential to happy cooking” he says, and yes, this place did make me happy. Very happy. Details: www.brasserie-beaux-arts.com/en/

Maison Millière: In a former house built in 1438 you will find a rather wonderful restaurant and shop. Run by affable husband and wife team Lydia and Jean Francois Lieutet, there’s an upstairs, downstairs and gorgeous little courtyard for a sunny day. Tea room, open for lunch Tuesday-Sunday, dinner Friday and Saturday. It is superb. Fans of Cyrano de Bergerac will recognise this place from the film. It’s a listed historical monument, authentic and memorable. Details: www.maison-milliere.fr/

Restaurants the locals love for dinner in Dijon

L’Essentiel: This is one tourists rarely discover since it’s not right in the centre but a very short walk away. This is where the locals go, lured by the delicious dishes of chef Richard Bernigaud whose deft hand creates memorable and delectable flavours. The menu is terrific value, the ingredients are top quality and its a friendly service. And, if I lived in Dijon, this would be my go to restaurant. It really is one of the best places to eat out in Dijon. Details: www.lessentiel-dijon.com/

Sitting at Le Pre aux Clercs Brasserie par Georges Blanc, in the big, light Place de la Liberation with a glass of good local wine induces happiness. Listening to the tinkling fountain, the low hum of people talking and laughing, enjoying al fresco happy hour, knowing that you’ve got a delicious dinner coming up. Brilliant.

Dine outside on the terrace on a fine day, inside with its elegant interior when it’s cooler. This place serves classic dishes with aplomb. I went for the traditional, eggs poached in Pinot Noir, boeuf bourguignon – seriously good, and a really welcoming restaurant too. Details: www.lepreauxclercs.fr/en/

The best wine bars in Dijon

If you like your cocktails served with finesse in a memorable location (a 13th century mansion no less), Monsieur Moutarde is THE place to go. Seek out the terrace area (go through the bar), it’s gorgeous and if you go early evening you’ll have it almost to yourself (I went at 17.30). There are little enclaves, a vintage looking interior and a long list of cocktails.

Place de la Liberation has some terrific bars and is great for people watching. If you like live music, try Le Pop Art and if you like to relax with a super glass of wine, Pre Aux Clercs is perfect.

Place Francois Rude is another great people watching place. Known to locals as Place du Bareuzai, because of the statue of a grape picker atop the fountain in the centre of the square. In years gone by wine growers would tread the grapes by foot which would give them “red stockings” (“bas rosés”/bareuzai).

For a lunch time bevvy there are lots of bars around the Les Halles covered market. And, there’s also a great bar inside. Plus you can buy the most amazing food here. Don’t miss a visit to Le Gourmet-Traiteur stall where you can get the most divine tarts and other scrumptious products.

For sheer wow factor the bar of the Théâtre Dijon Bourgogne takes some beating. It’s In the former 15th century church of Saint Jean which is now a theatre.

Dr Wine is popular with locals into wine, a bit bobo (bourgeois- bohemian French for middle class!). It’s very designer with a lovely courtyard in a posh mansion house (5 rue Musette).

Read more about what to see and do in Dijon

Where to stay

I stayed at the Residence Le Pré aux Clercs, right in the heart of the city. From here it’s literally a 10 second walk to the Place de la Libération. A boutique B&B with just five rooms, including top floor suite, I loved feeling like a local staying here and being so close to the centre of everything yet in a quiet side street. Lovely breakfast provided in the restaurant next door.

Getting around

There’s a good tram system and buses too.

How to get there

The train from Paris takes just 1.5 hours so it’s an easy day trip destination. But, you don’t want to just go for one day – two is much better as there’s simply so much to see and do.

Useful websites

Dijon tourist office: www.destinationdijon.com; Burgundy-tourism.com; www.ukfrance.fr

The post Where to eat out in Dijon Burgundy appeared first on The Good Life France.

France is full of gorgeous wine regions. From Alsace and its fairy tale villages to Cassis and its vineyards that nearly touch the Mediterranean Sea. And then there’s Beaujolais. Its vine-covered hillsides are as pretty as any in France. You’ll find it in the south of Burgundy, a region that’s world famous for its wines.

Beaujolais wines are made from the red Gamay grape and are so food-friendly that you can drink them with practically anything. Gamay is not considered a “noble grape” and so Beaujolais won’t impress the wine snobs. But, it is reasonably priced and really quite good. The best bottles have the name of a village on the label. Look for Fleurie, Julienas, Morgon, and several others.

You might have heard of Beaujolais Nouveau, a young wine that is deliciously drinkable. It is produced right after the harvest and delivered to restaurants and wine shops around the world on “Beaujolais Day” in November. Thirsty crowds greet it with the joyful cry of “Le beaujolais nouveau est arrivé!” (“The Beaujolais Nouveau has arrived!”) and the party begins.

Top things to see and do in Beaujolais

The region is packed with charming villages, just perfect for a stroll and a leisurely meal with some of that tasty wine. But the best part of a visit to Beaujolais is driving through the countryside and seeing those rolling hills, covered with their lovely green vines.

The village of Oingt is officially listed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Only the tower remains of the medieval castle but it’s worth climbing for the panoramic views over Beaujolais. Read more about Oingt here.

If you like to walk or bike, you’re in luck! The Beaujolais Greenway is a pretty, 15km route and mostly flat. It runs along the path of an old railway line. You can rent bikes (including electric) at the Maison du Terroir Beaujolais.

Visit Chateaux in Beaujolais

The Château de Montmelas is known as the Sleeping Beauty castle. The same noble family has lived in it for centuries. If you are there on the first Saturday of the month, you can join a tour of the interior at 11am.

A castle with beautiful grounds is the Château de la Chaize. Here you can taste their excellent wines during your visit.

Another lovely castle with nice wines to taste is the Château de Corcelles.

Practical Information

The official website for the region is Destination Beaujolais.

The largest town in the region is Villefranche-sur-Saône. Their tourist office has good information on Beaujolais, including maps and a list of wineries open to the public where you can taste wine.

More on Burgundy

3 fabulous chateau hotels in Burgundy
Hospices de Beaune
Biking in Burgundy
Guedelon, medieval castle built in the 21st century

Keith Van Sickle splits his time between Silicon Valley and Provence.  He is the author of One Sip at a Time: Learning to Live in Provence and Are We French Yet? Keith & Val’s Adventures in Provence. Read more at Life in Provence.

The post What to see and do in Beaujolais Burgundy appeared first on The Good Life France.

Chateau Vault de Lugny, Yonne Burgundy | A hotel fit for royalty

Channel your inner King and Queen at this stunning moated chateau hotel – you can even book the room once reserved for kings. Built between the 13th and 17th centuries the chateau Vault de Lugny oozes charm and history.

A roaring open fire in the restaurants on cold nights, fabulous food in a gastronomic restaurant and wonderful service make this a standout luxury hotel stay. And the rooms. You seriously feel like royalty in these exquisite rooms that look just like they must have to the nobles who stayed in them centuries years ago. You won’t want to leave the room! The hotel pool has been voted the most beautiful in France and believe me, there’s nothing quite so special as getting a swim in an ancient but warm cellar that feels cocoon like. It can be hired for a private dinner a deux – how romantic is that? Don’t miss walking in the magnificent grounds to see the farm animals and the beautiful vegetable gardens.

At the gateway of the Morvan Regional Natural Park in Yonne, this luxury hotel is superb…

lugny.fr

Château de Couches, Saône-et-Loire Burgundy

The 12^th century Chateau de Couches was a former home to the fabulously wealthy Dukes of Burgundy and is an architecturally splendid symbol of the middle ages. Located not far from Beaune or Chalon-sur-Saone, the castle is open for visits and has wonderful views from its high walls.

Take a guided wine tasting tour or wine course in the fabulous wine cellar,  and join in the events held here from a medieval fair to workshops.

This is a great place to enjoy lunch. The fresh, home-made menu and local wines combined with beautiful views are irresistible (Thursday-Sunday, 12h-14h – reserve online at their website below).

Not strictly a hotel, but you can also stay in the beautiful B&B of the chateau (a suite is also available). The accommodation is very private and beautifully decorated. Details from the website below.

The castle is open from April to November (plus during Christmas/New Year school holidays). See the website for details: Chateaudecouches.com

Chateau Saint-Michel, Rully

A grand, luxury hotel in the heart of the best of the Burgundy vineyards on the Route des Grands Vins de Bourgogne. Built in 1860 by the Director of the Paris Stock Exchange, it remains authentic in decor and furnishings. It has had many guises, a retirement home for priests, offices for the government, a school even. But in 2006 it was bought by a Dutch couple with a vision for its renovation and purpose as a luxury hotel, restaurant and wine bar.

It makes for a lovely stay in a quiet and tranquil village where the wines are of the finest quality.

Details: en.relaisdusilence.com/charming-hotel/france/burgundy/chateau-saint-michel

Practical Information

Discover some of the most beautiful castles of Burgundy and Franche-Comté with the Association of the Chateaux de Bourgogne et de Franche-Comté

Find out what to do in the region with www.bourgonefranchecomte.com

The post 3 Fabulous chateau hotels in Burgundy appeared first on The Good Life France.