Leonardo da Vinci not only invented the ancestor of the modern car, he conceptualised a crank-powered armoured tank and designed a humanoid automaton, a mechanical knight – in 1495. He was an architect, engineer, mathematician, sculptor, geologist, anatomist, artist and scientist.

He predicted that for man to fly he must be supplied with wings which would make a variety of movements  to keep on a steady keel. His writings and models, especially of the parachute and helicopter helped others to think about flying in the right way. Three hundred years later in France, where da Vinci spent his last three years, the brothers Montgolfier, experimenting with the idea of hot air which always rises, made several large balloons. They suspended animals below and successfully sent them on flights. When Pillatre de Rozier made an ascent in a balloon, he became the world’s first aeronaut.

Way ahead of his time, da Vinci’s influence is far reaching and a part of modern life. Diving suits, cranes and gearboxes were all amongst his designs.

The genius of Leonardo da Vinci has been brought to life at the Chateau du Clos Lucé, in the Loire Valley. His final home in the town of Amboise, where he died in the small chateau, and is laid to rest at the Castle of Amboise.

Leonardo da Vinci in the Loire Valley

Leonardo da Vinci arrived in Amboise, in the Loire Valley in 1516. He was 64 years old and made the journey by donkey from Italy, where he was born in 1452.

Invited by King Francois 1 to live at the Chateau of Clos Lucé, a stone’s throw from the King’s chateau of Amboise, da Vinci left his mark on the Loire Valley. It was the time of the French Renaissance, which emerged at the beginning of the 16th century, inspired by Italian artists. An influence which revolutionised architecture, decoration and an entire way of life. The King had huge admiration for da Vinci, it’s said that he liked to call the artist “my father” and the two worked closely together.

Loire Valley home of Leonardo da Vinci

Da Vinci was paid generously, enough to live and create as he wished. He organised grand festivities for the king, parties that were spoken of for years afterwards. They included complex scenographic effects, automata such as a lion which spat out fleur de lys when you knocked on its chest, and special sound and lighting effects. He designed an ideal city, completed the painting of the Mona Lisa and wrote copious journals, manuscripts and sketch books.

Da Vinci died in his bedroom at the chateau of Clos Lucé on 2 May 1519. He is buried in the chapel of the Chateau of Amboise. The chateau where he lived has been renovated and restored to look as it did when da Vinci lived there. His workshops are full of paintings and artefacts. His bedroom is decorated with period furnishings which makes it all the more moving. It’s easy to imagine him walking around the castle in his robes. Making notes, dining at the wooden table where he ate carefully, convinced that as one get’s older one must eat less meat and practice sobriety for good health.

Leonardo da Vinci’s inventions

The castle and the glorious gardens that surround it – now an open air museum – pay homage to the genius who once lived there.

Reproductions of da Vinci’s paintings, of the notes he wrote, sculptures and in particular some of the amazing inventions that he left behind and which have influenced life to this day can be found in the castle. There are more than 40 models in the basement of the castle.

And in the garden you’ll discover life-size models of some of his most incredible inventions. The aerial screw, made of linen stretched around wire, is  the ancestor of the modern helicopter. The rotation is manually activated by turning the wooden cranks around a central axis. The articulated glider is undoubtedly his most famous and craziest invention. To design this machine, he fanatically observed birds and bats in flight. The tank is one of the most iconic inventions of the Italian master. Under a turtle-shaped shell, with well-placed openings, there are thirty guns ready to create havoc. The odometer is the ancestor of our measuring wheel. At each turn of the wheel on this barrow, a clever mechanism drops a pebble into a basket. At the end, you simply count the number of pebbles to calculate the distance travelled.  

Seeing the models up close and being able to test them in the way that Leonardo da Vinci intended is a memorable experience. You can’t help but be amazed by the depth of his imagination and genius. And as you walk in his footsteps in this lovely chateau, you can almost feel his spirit…

Find out more: Chateau de Clos Luce

More on the Loire Valley

Chateau de Chambord with its double helix stairs case inspired by da Vinci

The Royal Chateau of Amboise

The Chateau de Chenonceau – a masterpiece of French Renaissance

The Royal Chateau of Blois

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Crissay-Sur-Manse, Indre-et-Loire

Crissay-sur-Manse (top photo) is in the heart of the Touraine region in Central Loire Valley close to Chinon, Tours and the fairy tale castle of Azay-le-Rideau. Its narrow streets are lined with medieval houses and tufa, white limestone The church, built by Jacques 1st of Crissé in 1527 and restored in 1867, is listed as a historical monument. The castle, partly destroyed during the Hundred Years War and rebuilt in the late 15^th century on the foundations of an ancient fortress can be visited on request via the tourist office.

Don’t miss the fountain of the Huguenots, the village washhouses, the wash of Gruteau or the Grand Moulin. Sainte Maure cheese is made at a farm in the town. Locals drizzle it with Crissay honey, or marmalade and eat it with gingerbread. A must see is the town’s famous wine cellar in a 15^th century house where you can taste the AOC wines of Chinon.

Gargilesse-Dampierre, Indre

One evening in June 1857, writer George Sand discovered the village of Gargilesse beautifully lit at sunset and it was love at first sight. Sand bought a house and lived in the village for five years. It’s now a museum, dedicated to the memory of the novelist who was one of France’s most popular writers in the mid 1800s.

The still used 12th century church of Saint-Laurent-et-Notre-Dame has wonderful frescoes, especially in the Crypt. Musée Delaveau is dedicated to the artist, Serge Delaveau. There’s also a chateau which hosts exhibitions and local festivities. And there is a lovely pottery shop run by well-known potter Guy Baudat.

Garillesse-Dampierre is a little over an hour from Valencay with its marvellous castle.

Apremont-Sur-Allier, Cher

In the heart of the Berry region, Apremont-Sur-Allier is dominated by a castle surrounded by a stunning park. Designed by Gilles de Brissac, the park has been awarded the “Jardin Remarquable” status.  There’s also a museum in the former stables dedicated to carriages and hosting art exhibitions. The beautifully restored medieval houses in the village make it a fabulous place for a wander.

Apremont-Sur-Allier is less than an hour’s drive from historic Bourges with its quirky Chateau de Jacques Coeur.

Saint-Benoit-du-Sault, Indre

Medieval Saint-Benoît-du-Sault is in the province formerly known as Berry, around an hour and half’s drive from the town of Bourges with its castle and cathedral. The village is renowned for its orange-coloured stone buildings. 15^th and 16^th century houses line the streets and there is a former Silversmiths workshop, now a listed historical monument. The 18^th century priory is perched on a rocky outcrop and hosts exhibitions and performances.  The Romanesque St. Benedict church has a beautiful granite baptismal font.

On the first Tuesday morning of each month, Saint-Benoît-du-Sault holds a monthly fair. There’s an annual summer Eva Ganizate festival, created in homage to the opera singer who was born in the village. Concerts are held in the Church of Saint-Benoît-du-Sault and in villages around. In August the villages hosts The Suspended Time festival dedicated to baroque music.

Saint-Benoît-du-Sault is on the edge of the Parc Naturel Regional de la Brenne.

Candes-St-Martin, Indre-et-Loire

Nestled along the side of the River Loire, this village with its white limestone buildings is authentic and picturesque. It’s next to the town of Montsoreau, another listed Plus Beaux Village de France (Pays de la Loire). In fact there is a saying that goes ‘You can sleep with your head in Montsoreau and your feet in Candes.’

Cobbled alleys of rose-clad ancient houses rise in tiers and offer stunning views over the rooftops and to the meeting of the rivers Loire and Vienne.

Don’t miss a visit to the Church of Saint Martin which has superb stained glass windows. Built in the 11th and 12th centuries, then fortified in the 15th century, it’s where you will find the tomb of St. Martin of Tours. Legend has it that when the former Roman soldier turned Christian missionary travelled from Chinon by river to Candes-Saint Martin. As he travelled, despite it being mid-winter, all the flowers blossomed along the banks as he passed by. He died aged 80 in Candes.

The Street Art Parc of Chateau de Moh, formerly the Castle of Candes, has a collection of more than 40 monumental art works in a forest. The Nicolas de Barry Parfumerie makes for an interesting visit. A boat ride by traditional wooden gabares offers memorable views over the town and the countryside. Close to the royal fortress town of Chinon, Fontevraud Abbey and the Chateau of Saumur, Candes Saint Martin is well worth adding to your Loire Valley itinerary.

Lavardin, Loir-et-Cher

Less than an hour’s drive from Tours, Amboise and Blois, perched high above the Valley of the Loire you’ll find the ruins of the Chateau de Lavardin. To reach the castle, cross a gothic bridge over the river. Then you’ll wander along flower-filled lanes lined with medieval houses which lead to the castle. It was pulled down centuries ago on the orders of Henri IV in order to stop local and religious squabbles. There are magnificent views from the sentry walk.

Stop off at the 11^th century Saint-Genest Church to see the ancient biblical themed murals on its walls.

Yèvre-le-Châtel, Loiret

Perched on a rocky mountain spur dominating the Rimarde valley, Yèvre-le-Châtel is an alluring little village. It’s home to a medieval fortress with towers and ramparts. Plus, there’s a medicinal plant garden whose small entrance fee pays for the flowers in the village. There’s also a châtelet, a small castle and rampart walk, as well as two churches. The narrow, flower-bedecked streets are lined with charming houses. The ruins of the Gothic 13th century Church of Saint Lubin church are quite mysterious and there are glorious views over the countryside from its location. Yèvre-le-Châtel is around 45 minutes’ drive from Fontainebleau with its opulent palace, and very close to Pithiviers where the famous sweet puff pastry pie of the same name comes from.

More on the Loire Valley

Taste of the Loire Valley – restaurants in the shadow of chateaux, and delicious local recipes

The Chateau d’Anet, not on the tourist trail but the former home of Diane de Poitiers, mistress of Henri II, is stunning

Chateau de Chaumont-sur-Loire, it’s gorgeous gardens are the Kew Gardens and Chelsea Flower Show of France

The post The prettiest villages in the Loire Valley appeared first on The Good Life France.

The lure of the Loire – chateaus, gateaus and tasty treats – it’s an irresistible combination. Some things are made for each other. Peaches and Cream. Cheese and wine. Chateaus and gateaus (castles and cakes). Which got me thinking about the best places in the UNESCO listed Loire Valley where you can feast like royalty – restaurants in castles or in the shadow of castles. Chefs who make dishes you’ll remember long after you’ve tasted them. Famous local wines, vegetables grown in castle gardens, historic dining rooms local specialities and irresistible sweet treats. Enjoy a taste of the Loire Valley…

Travel with your taste buds to Touraine, Loire Valley

For an authentic taste of the Loire Valley, add these delicious addresses to your itinerary and take a gastronomic journey of the French Valley of the Kings with these scrumptious recipes…

Chateau du Rivau

The Chateau du Rivau is a medieval fairy tale castle with magical gardens and a delicious restaurant. Its beautifully restored royal stables are thought to be the oldest in France – Joan of Arc arrived here in 1429 in search of a horse to carry her to battle. The rooms of the castle are beautifully furnished and embellished with an extraordinary art collection and regular exhibitions. The 14 fairy-tale like gardens at the foot of the château are a classified “Remarkable Garden of France” and house monumental works of art and an impressive collection of more than 460 varieties of roses, carefully selected for their scents. Read more about the Chateau du Rivau

EAT: While you’re there, the chateau has a lovely restaurant: Jardin Secret of Château du Rivau. On sunny days, you can dine outside in the heart of those scented rose gardens under a magical canopy. Vegetables are cultivated at the chateau farm, and wine is produced in their own vineyards. Products are locally sourced and exquisitely presented by Chef Nicolas Gaulandeau who offers innovative cuisine inspired by the Rivau garden and nature.

Tourraine speciality: Truffles

Black truffles flourish in Tourraine, growing  at the feet of oak, hazelnut and even lime trees and local restaurants love to use this homegrown products.

Recipe for Brouillade aux truffes de Touraine – posh and scrumptious scrambled eggs and truffles!

Chateau de Chenonceau

The white façade of this exquisite château is reflected in the water of the Cher river, spanned elegantly by its famous gallery. Visit the gorgeous gardens and wander the rooms that are filled with most beautiful floral bouquets and rich furnishings. Read more about the Chateau Chenonceau and take a virtual visit.

EAT: Treat yourself to a memorable meal – and a choice of fabulous fromages from one of the best cheese platters I’ve ever seen. The Orangerie restaurant at the exquisite Chateau de Chenonceau is exceptional. I would go back there just for the cheese alone. Plus there are wonderful local wines. Here you’re in the heart of the AOC Touraine Chenonceaux appellation. Gourmet dishes (make sure you leave room for dessert) and a memorable setting make this a top notch dining experience…

Tourraine speciality: Macarons

Typical of the Touraine, recognisable by the legendary round shape, Cormery’s macarons are one of the oldest cookies in France!

Want a taste at home? Try the baker’s recipe: Cormery’s macarons by Pascal Debaud at the fabulous bakery Aux Vrais Macarons in Cormery

Chateau de Chambord

Turrets and towers galore. 400 rooms. 70 staircases and a park that’s bigger than inner Paris. This really is a castle on a grand scale. Read more about the Chateau de Chambord and take a virtual tour here.

EAT: Just a stone’s throw from the entrance of the French Renaissance glory of the Chateau de Chambord lies a 4 star hotel with a superb restaurant. Grand Saint-Michel restaurant has a fabulous terrace area. Here you can sit and sigh over the sight of that magnificent castle just 50 yards away, as you eat and drink. Inside is chic and contemporary country house style. Fresh, local, traditional – gourmet food is the order of the day.

Tourraine speciality: Nougat of Tours

Unlike the famous chewy nougat of Montélimar, Nougat of Tours is actually a cake. And it’s seriously scrumptious. Recipe for Nougat de Tours cake.

Royal Fortress of Chinon

The royal fortress sits majestically watching over its domaine, located high on the banks of the river Loire, right in the centre of the city. Built in 945 by Theobald I, Comte De Blois it has been a residence for both the French and English royal families. A highlight for the visitor is the lofty “gate” tower built in 1200. In the 14^th century it was raised to make room for a clock. Gaze out from the viewing platform over the glorious town and countryside.

EAT: Loved by the locals, Le chapeau Rouge, in the centre of Chinon serves traditional and gourmet cuisine featuring locally sourced and seasonal produce. Chef Christophe Duguin is a local food ambassador making use of local and seasonal products wherever possible and his dishes are simply irresistible. www.touraineloirevalley.com/restaurants/au-chapeau-rouge-chinon

Tourraine speciality: Saffron

Did you know that saffron is produced in the Tourraine area? Just a few pounds of “red gold” is produced each year, one of the most expensive spices in the world! It’s popular in the kitchen, but it’s used for perfumes and dyes as well. Saffron also has anti-depressive qualities promotes digestion, regulates stomach functions and is also said to have other health benefits.

Chef  Dugiun’s Touraine special recipe: Roasted scallops with saffron butter sauce

Discover what to see and do in Touraine, Loire Valley: TouraineLoireValley

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The Loire Valley is famed for its lengthy history of Kings, political intrigue and exquisite chateaux. Many are world famous but there are some less well-known gems that make for a perfect two-day visit.

Chateau du Rivau

Small but perfectly formed, the Chateau du Rivau is a genuine medieval castle which has been painstakingly restored. It is unusual because the fabulous formal gardens, orchard and woods feature superb contemporary art including a giant teacup, rubber boots and legs. It is quirky and gorgeous with a surprise around every corner. The interior is richly decorated and filled with art.  The castle holds several events year round including a glorious pumpkin festival. There’s an excellent onsite restaurant too. Perfect for a half day visit with lunch.

Richelieu

Close by, the town of Richelieu is well worth a trip. Built under the instruction of Cardinal Richelieu, the powerful chief minister of Louis XIII, it is a model “new town” built in the mid-1600’s. The walled town  was built on a grid arrangement with two enormous squares. Outside the town the wealthy Cardinal built a Chateau for himself in the style of Versailles, in part using stone plundered from the fortress at Chinon. The Chateau has long gone, but the remaining parkland area gives a good idea of the huge scale.

Wonderful views

For one of the most wonderful views in the Loire Valley, stand on the banks of the Vienne river opposite the town of Chinon looking up at the redoubtable fortress. In March 1429 Joan of Arc arrived here to inform King Henry VI that she had heard voices directing her to go to him and help to fight against the English invaders. These days the fort is a major visitor centre after a 14 million euro investment in restoration.

There are plenty of places to enjoy dinner and stay in Chinon.

Loches and Montresor

If you’re in Loches on  Wednesday or Saturday, it’s the perfect place to start your day with an hour at the fabulous market. Get there early and park in the railway station car park.

Afterwards, enjoy the architecturally spectacular climb to “the Cite”.

From here it is a short drive through the forest to Montresor, officially one of the prettiest villages in France.  Visit the pretty castle, and enjoy lunch in the town.

Montpoupon

From here head to Chateau Montpoupon, near the famous chateau of Chenonceau. Slightly off the beaten track, it houses a museum of hunting, horses and the art of riding. The rooms are beautifully furnished from the King’s Chamber to the kitchen, filled with copper pans.

You can fit these visits in two days, but three days means you can take your time to really get to know this rather hidden part of the Loire Valley.

Andy Simpson lived in France for several years before settling in Devon. He blogs at: blackbirdwoodindevon.blogspot.com

Find out more about the Loire Valley

Chateau de Chenonceau – the castle of flowers
7 Things to do in Tours at the heart of the Loire Valley
The magnificent Chateau de Chambord
What to see and do in Amboise

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The International Garden Festival, Chaumont-sur-Loire is like Kew Gardens meets Chelsea flower show with French flair. There’s a stunning chateau thrown in for good measure, a fascinating history and some of the most gorgeous gardens in France.

The magnificent gardens of Chaumont-sur-Loire

Since 1992, the International Garden Festival of Chaumont-sur-Loire has provided an inspiring introduction to landscape design styles from around the world. Several hundreds gardens, which act as prototypes for the gardens of the future, have been created during the course of its history. The inspirational designs showcase the talent of around 30 designers each year and present new species and innovative materials, as well as inventive ideas and creative approaches to gardening. Each year there’s a different theme and the gardens are transformed. Each year also sees a different art festival taking place in the ground, the chateau and even the stables.

You really need a whole day here to enjoy the permanent gardens and the temporary gardens that change each year. Once you’ve done the gardens you can explore the large park. It is immense – and not to be rushed. Take a picnic or enjoy lunch in the pretty restaurant. It’s not as crowded as some of the flower shows I’ve been to which makes for a relaxing visit in which you can truly appreciate the surroundings. There also aren’t the commercial aspects you see at some garden festivals, no rows of stalls selling everything from picnic baskets to bulbs. But there is a large shop that’s full of rather elegant items and some plants you can buy.

History of the Chateau de Chaumont

The first castle of Chaumont was built in the 10th century, a fortress style building which was replaced in the 15th century. Owned by the Amboise family it was updated in the French Renaissance style in the late 15th century. It looks straight out of a fairy tale – all pointy towers and turrets.

But it’s the later ownership of the chateau which tells the most fascinating tale. In 1875 the Chateau-de-Chamont was bought by a 17 year old orphan. Mary Say was the granddaughter of an immensely wealthy sugar baron and inherited his vast fortune. Three months later she married Prince Henri Amédée de Broglie. The pair were the toast of Parisian society but spent half their time at Chaumont. They lavished a fortune to restore it’s glory and create magnificent gardens and tropical greenhouses. They held parties for their rich and famous friends, bringing the Paris Opera and Comédie-Française to the castle to entertain guests who were transported from Paris by special train. An elephant wandered the grounds, a gift from an Indian Maharaja who attended a party.

When Marie was widowed in 1917 she married prince, Louis-Ferdinand d’Orléans. He was more than 30 years her junior, she was 73 at the time. He squandered her fortune and the castle was sold to the state. The castle has been kept to look as it did when Marie lived there. The rooms are beautifully furnished, and each year art exhibitions are held there.

Chaumont-sur-Loire International Garden Festival

Chaumont sur Loire Garden Festival held annually from April to October. It’s a must for gardeners!

Find details: domaine-chaumont.fr/en

More on the chateaus of the Loire

Chateau de Chenonceau, visit the castle of flowers…
Chateau de Chambord
Chateau de Blois
Chateau of Azay-le-Rideau

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Sancerre is a beautiful, ancient hilltop village wine town. It’s located in the heart of France, in the department of Cher in an area known as Berry Province and you’d be hard put to find a more enchanting town anywhere in France…

Maison des Sancerre

The first place to head to is the Maison des Sancerre. This high tech museum that takes you through the history of wine made in the area. Sounds dry? Not a bit of it – it’s an innovative exhibition full of fascinating facts and featuring holographs and merry drinking songs. It ends with a fabulous wine tasting on the terrace with stunning views over the countryside.

And the views really are magnificent from all over this nest-like medieval village, but especially so from the Tour des Fiefs. This robust stone tower is the only remaining vestige of the town’s 14^th century castle.

What to see in Sancerre

Sancerre is a sleepy sort of place. Outside peak summer months, you’ll hardly meet a soul in the narrow steep streets that are lined with turreted houses. Pale pastel coloured shutters perfectly compliment ancient doors, wrought iron balconies and pitched roofs. Even in the summer it’s not exactly teeming. But, the square becomes lively and the shops and wine bars do a brisk trade, as this little town is firmly on the wine tourism route.

600 years ago, John the Magnificent, Duc de Berry (brother of Charles V of France) visited Sancerre and declared “the wine of Sancerre is the best in the kingdom.” Who are we to disagree?!

Delicious goats cheese and gastronomy

The perfect food to enjoy with your glass of Sancerre is the locally made cheese, thimble-sized Crottin de Chavignol. It was first produced in the 16^th century. Just 3.5km from Sancerre, at La Ferme des Chapotons in Menetou-Ratel at the foot of Chavignol, the family of Madame Godon create the most scrumptious little crottins. I promise you, they’re delicious nibbled in their tasting room with a glass of Sancerre.

For a more substantial meal, Chef Baptiste Fournier at La Tour Sancerre serves utterly delicious dishes which perfectly compliment the local wines. Or try L’Auberge Joseph Mellot, one of the oldest restaurants in the town, pleasing diners since 1882.

Around and about Sancerre

There’s plenty to do and see in the area, The Chateaux de Chambord and Blois  are only around 1.5 hours away by car. Activities range from hiking, cycling (including cyclo railing on a disused railway track) and golf. Or you could go canoeing at nearby St Satur where the Sancerre vineyards were first planted by monks in the 12^th century. But don’t, whatever you do, miss a visit to Bourges. The Cathedral City is not as well-known as some of the other Cathedral cities of France and isn’t on the main tourist route. It should be though, since this is a truly fascinating town to visit.

Many assume the word bourgeois comes from Bourges but it’s actually from the Celtic Bourg, meaning town. Once the capital of France, Bourges boasts 500 half-timbered houses (more than any other French town. It has Roman ruins (it was besieged by Julius Caesar in 525BC) and a castle. There are winding cobbled streets and a whole lot more.

Gorgeous gardens and lush countryside

While you’re there, visit the beautiful gardens of the Marais. And, have your mind boggled by the majestic beauty of the 12^th century St Etienne Cathedral with its spectacular 800 year old stained glass windows. Take a food break in a Roman tower at the Salon de Thé (74bis rue Boubonnoux). And explore the 15^th century Palais Jacques Coeur, built by the man who financed Joan of Arc’s campaigns and saved France from financial ruin.

The countryside of Berry is filled with vineyards and walnut orchards, lush valleys and forests, crossed by rivers and streams. It’s peppered with picturesque hamlets, magnificent chateaux and turreted manor houses. A must-see is the Priory of Orsan which has the most exquisite medieval gardens. This is a place that’s made for exploring – and for tasting the divine wines that come from the fertile soil.

www.tourisme-sancerre.com

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Julius Caesar was here. The English were here, and because of that, Joan of Arc was here. It seems throughout history, Orleans in the Loire Valley has established its place as a principal city in France (and it was the most important city after Paris during the 10th and 11th Centuries).

While today most people come to Orleans to seek out the legacy of Joan of Arc in the place where she was victorious in the Siege of the English during the Hundred Years War, there is a lot more to the city than the Maid of Orleans says Amy McPherson…

The road to riches

Cobbled roads Rue Bourgogne and Rue Parisie cross over just south of the famous cathedral. These old Roman roads led to Paris and Burgundy, showing that Orleans was already an important junction during the Roman conquest when they called the city Aurelianum.

French royals who based their homes largely between Paris and the Loire Valley, found the Orleans a convenient stopping off spot as the closest city on the Loire to Paris route.

Merchant boats would dock further downstream near the Atlantic Ocean and transfer their luxury goods onto traditional wooden boats more suited to sail on this unpredictable wild river before bringing them to Orleans for onward transportation to Paris.

Navigating the criss-cross of narrow medieval streets of the old town, Orleans exhibits signs of its once affluent past, especially through the varied architectural styles of the French Renaissance of the 16th Century. Merchants who settled here imported material and ideas that came with their ships, and built fancy, stylish homes. It is not uncommon to see timber frame house of pink and yellow wedged between limestone buildings with decorative carvings commonly associated with the Renaissance period.

The River Loire

Flowing for 634 miles through the country into the Atlantic, the Loire is the longest river in France. It was one of the most important trade routes of the 16th Century. For Orleans, the capital of the department of Loiret in the Centre-Val de Loire region, it was the river which brought wealth and prestige to the city.

“But, ever since they built the railway from Orleans to Paris, people have turned away from the river,” said Damien, my guide from the Orleans Tourism Office and a local to the city. “They seem to have forgotten it was the Loire that built this city.”

Today, the riverfront has been redeveloped. It is once again a vibrant area to hang out and enjoy the Loire. Visitors can hire traditional boats, once used for trade and transport. Flat bottomed and narrower than other riverboats, these are designed to endure the challenges of the Loire, the last wild river in Europe.

Going Underground

For someone who only spent 10 days in Orleans, Joan of Arc has a lot of presence here. “Of course when you come to Orleans you’ll want to visit the places related to Joan of Arc,” my guide says, “but there is so much more to the city than the Maiden.”

We stood at the main square, Place du Martroi, bordered by elegant Renaissance, Haussmann and Art Deco style architecture. Dominating my line of sight, in the middle of the square, is a large statue of Joan of Arc. Damien beckons me to steer my eyes away from the statue to look at the ground beneath her. Laughing at my confused expression as I gaze at a plain slab of concrete, he takes out a remote control and presses the red button. The slab opens up to reveal a spiral staircase. Just as he said, beneath the hype of Joan of Arc, there is quite literally another layer to Orleans to discover. “Welcome to Orleans Underground.”

Like all great cities, Orleans has been developed, expanded numerous times, things get buried and ground level gets higher. As I descend the spiral stairs, I find to my astonishment it leads to a 16th century moat. There’s even an old bridge that was once connected to one of the city walls towering over me. Uncovered while constructing an underground car park for the city, this is now proudly displayed through glass panels that separate the site from the car park that was built around it.

Ancient but lively streets

Back on the road surface, I follow Damien through the streets, tracing the invisible line where the city’s three walls once stood. En route we visit more underground treasures, such as crypts and underground chapels that were used to hide religious artefacts. We cut through Rue Bourgogne, lively with restaurants, cafes and bars, to arrive at Saint Aignan Church. “Ah! Here is someone from Orleans worth celebrating!” he cries.

Saint Aignan was the Bishop of Orleans. He was canonised for defending the city against Attila the Hun in 451 without lifting a weapon. Instead he threw a handful of sand towards the advancing enemy. His prayers turned the sand into a cloud of wasps which made the invaders flee without a fight. Today, besides this church, his legacy is mostly forgotten.

“Oh, except in one small part of Orleans lifestyle.” Damien digs into his backpack and produces a picture of the local football team whose emblem is a wasp with a football.

The Loire flows silently, streaming westwards toward the Atlantic in ribbons of sand and water. After I leave Damien’s comprehensive tour of the city, I hop on a small wooden boat. They were traditionally used for dredging the sand so that larger merchant boats could come through with their cargo. To my right and left, sand islands are thriving with bird life, bustling with herons, egrets, cormorants, ducks, geese and starlings. There are even resident beavers.

I look up towards Orleans – if I were in Aignan and Joan’s shoes. I’d be defending it too.

Must sees: in Orleans

Check out the Museum of Fine Arts next to the Tourism Office. One of France’s oldest provincial museums, artworks range from the 15th to the 20th centuries with paintings, drawings, sculpture and prints.

Across the road is the Cathedral, with unusual towers shaped like a crown. Joan of Arc’s story is told through a series of stained-glass windows. From May to September a Son et Lumière show takes place on the Cathedral façade.

Wine and Dine: Eugene, a Michelin listed restaurant tucked away in an alley near Place du Martroi, is a celebration of regional cuisine. Exquisite meals accompanied by attentive staff, the seasonal menu is a dining ceremony without the hefty price tag. (24, rue Sainte Anne)

Locals love: Le Restaurant 128 on the Olivet side of the river, local’s lunchtime favourite. The unpretentious set menu is served with friendly smiles in a welcoming setting. The restaurant also holds regular live performances and events. (128 Avenue du Loiret, Olivet)

Don’t miss: Festival of the Loire 2019

Visit between 18 to 22 September in 2019 and join in the fun at the Festival de Loire (www.festivaldeloire.com). The biennial event celebrates the Loire and its rich history, with a parade of traditional merchant and trade boats, music and performances that tell stories of the sailors who rely on this wild river.

Practical Information

Where to stay: Riverfront Empreinte Hotel Orleans is an elegant boutique hotel and historical mansion. Rooms are tastefully decorated and comfortable. It’s a great location for exploring the city.  www.empreinte-hotel.com

Getting there: Orleans is an hour and twenty minutes by train from Paris Gare d’Austerlitz. It’s a good base for exploring the Loire Valley. There are regional train connections to major towns around the Loire and its Chateaux.

Orleans Tourist Office: www.tourisme-orleansmetropole.com

Amy McPherson is a London based travel writer whose work has been featured in international publications. Cats, cycling and food features heavily in her writing and her blog at: www.footprintsandmemories.com

The post What to see and do in Orleans, Loire Valley appeared first on The Good Life France.

There’s a whole lot to see and do in Tours in the heart of the Loire Valley. It’s easy to reach from Paris by train and provides a great base to visit the area. There are several of the major Loire Valley Chateaux nearby and you can organise a tour by coach or mini bus from here (check at the tourist office for details). And in fact you can even take a train from Tours to Blois, Chambord and Chenonceau if you don’t want to drive. Here are some of my favourite things to do in Tours in the Loire Valley:

Old Tours

Visit the old town and wander the cobbled streets to admire the ancient half-timbered houses. Follow the historic Circuit Saint Martin in the footsteps of Saint Martin to discover the main monuments relating to his heritage. The pilgrimage of Tours is one of the oldest of Christendom among those of Rome, Jerusalem and Santiago de Compostela.

Marvellous museums

And, for museum lovers, head to the quirky Musée du Compagnonnage. It’s the only one of its kind in the world, dedicated to trades guilds, it’s located in the former monks dormitory of the Benedictine Abbey of Saint Julien (13th-18th century). UNESCO listed (Intangible Cultural Heritage) Compagnonnage dates back from the end of the Middle Ages. It is made up of societies of young workers aspiring to ‘professional and moral development by means of a journey through France’ called “tour de France”. You’ll discover thousands of exhibits from tools to engravings, woodwork and even food displays. It really is a fascinating place.

There are several other museums including Fine Arts.

Arty Party

Centre de Création Contemporaine Olivier Debré – if you’re a fan of modern art, don’t miss this one.

Take me to the River

Take a river cruise. Rest your feet by taking a boat ride on a traditional flat-bottomed boat, known as a ‘Toue’. You’ll enjoy great views of the town from the river.

Wine and Dine

Leave time to enjoy the local gastronomy and wines. Head to Place Plumereau (top photo) to hang out with the locals at apero time. See our review of restaurants and gourmet shops the locals love: Where to eat out in Tours

To market you should go

Les Halles de Tours is more than 150 years old and open 7 days a week. Known as the belly of Tours – this is the place to go for fabulous fresh produce from pastries to chocolate and cheese, vegetables, wine and a whole lot more.

Garden glory

The botanical gardens are the largest and oldest gardens in the city. The beautiful tranquil grounds house an orangery, an exhibition greenhouse and pools containing hundreds of beautiful waterlilies. With over 5 hectares of greenery and more than 2000 plants, trees and shrubs to take in, this is a great for a picnic (with that delicious produce you just bought from the market!).

Cathedral of Tours

First built in 337, it burnt down in 561 and was promptly restored on the same site in 590. It was then rebuilt in the early 12^th century, but in 1166 burnt to the ground again. In 1236 work began on making the cathedral what it is today. It’s architecture is simply stunning, with wonderful stained-glass windows and an Italian style organ.

Practical Information for Tours

Tram & bus service. You can buy a rechargeable bus/tram ticket from a bus driver (including the first journey), which can be recharged at major bus/tram stops. These machines take cards and change, but not notes. Simply tap the card on a reader to pay for a journey once on the bus. It’s cheap and easy.

Top tip: Book tours of chateaux from the tourist office. Many of the greats are easily accessible from here, Chenonceau, Villandry and Chambord to mention just a few.

Where to stay: Splash out and indulge at the 4* Hotel Oceania L’Univers. This historic hotel has welcome Rockefeller, Roosevelt and Ernest Hemingway amongst many prestigious guests. Wonderfully plush, old school glamour, in a fabulous location and friendly staff. (Parking available).

Great value at Le Grand Tours. There’s a range of rooms styles (and prices) in a terrific art deco building. Friendly staff and conveniently close to Tours station.

Get there: The train from Paris takes from 1 hour and 40 minutes.

What to see nearby: Chateau de Chenonceau, the castle of flowers which you can reach by train. You can also take a train to Amboise and Blois from here…

For more information on what to see and do in Tours visit the tourist office: 78-82 Rue Bernard Palissy www.tours-tourism.co.uk

For more information on what to do in the Loire Valley see:
www.loirevalley-france.co.uk; uk.france.fr

The post 7 things to do in Tours in the Loire Valley appeared first on The Good Life France.

Tours has many restaurants to choose from but we’ve picked just a few which the locals recommend. Top of the wine list are the local Touraine wines. Choose from fruity reds, lively and aromatic whites, fresh and delicate rosés and superb sparkling wines. So, if you want to know where to eat out in Tours – read on!

Wine and Dine in Tours

Locals Love: Le Bistrot des Belles Caves, a cosy bistro that dishes up French classics as well as gluten free, vegan and vegetarian options. There’s a superb wine list – choose from 1200 different bottles. On sunny days, book the terrace. (23 Rue du Commerce)

Wine and dine: The restaurant of Chateau Belmont is beautiful. With a gorgeous terrace, set in a park with lovely views of the 17th century castle. The food is seasonal, classic with a modern twist and delicious. There’s also a lovely bar where you can enjoy cocktails and aperitifs with tapas. (57 Rue Groison).

Summer special: From May to September La Guingette de Tours sur Loire is the place to go. A summer festival with a great restaurant area (booking in advance is essential). You’ll find it alongside the river (Quai de la Loire) where over the course of four months more than 100 concerts and shows take place. There’s also mini golf, petanque and more leisure activities. Details at the tourist office.

Aperitif heaven: Place Plumereau. Voted the best square in France for apertifs by the French! Actually it’s good all day whether its for your morning coffee, a lazy lunch, aperitifs or a delicious dinner! The locals call it “Place Plum”…

Markets in Tours

There are several markets in Tours, you’ll find one from Tuesday to Sunday somewhere (the tourist office and their website has details). There’s a flower market, flea market (Place Victoire) and a craft market on Saturday. More than 150 years old, Les Halles is the belly of Tours dishing up fabulous local produce 7 days a week.

Gourmet shops in Tours

Ice ice baby: Tutti Gusti just off Place Plumereau where you’ll find a scrumptious selection of ice creams, sorbets and crepes  which you can scoff under the watchful eye of medieval characters carved into the wooden frame of the ancient building.

Cake my day: There are a dozen chocolateries in Tours and just as many Patisseries. Artisan made delightful cakes and chocolate creations. Head to Patisserie Nicolas Leger for absolutely delicious artisan made cakes that are like tiny edible works of art and hand-made chocolates (59 Place du Grand Marché).

Bake my day: The locals say that the best place for artisanal bread is in the quartier les Halles where there are several excellent boulangeries including L’atelier du Talemelier (30 Place Gaston Paillhou)

Fantastic fromage: Local cheeses include log shaped Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine, a a delicious fresh goats milk cheese and Selles-sur-Cher, a disk shaped, slightly nutty-tasting goats cheese.

Rodolphe Le Meunier, master affineur (cheese maturer), Meilleur Ouvrier de France (best artisan in his class) has an amazing array of cheeses (Place Gaston Paillhou).

More on Tours

What to see and do in Tours
The amazing wallpaper studio of Ofard, where the wall coverings are made by centuries old methods
Musée du Compagnonnage – the only one of its kind in the world, dedicated to trades guilds
Centre de Création Contemporaine Olivier Debré  – contemporary art gallery, innovative with mesmerising exhibitions.

Practical Information for Tours

Tram & bus service. You can buy a rechargeable bus/tram ticket for €1.60 from a bus driver (including the first journey), which can be recharged at major bus/tram stops for €1.50 per trip or €13 for ten trips. These machines take card and change, but not notes. Simply tap the card on a reader to pay for a journey once on the bus.

Top tip: Book tours of chateaux from the tourist office. Many of the greats are easily accessible from here, Chenonceau, Villandry and Chambord to mention just a few.

Where to stay: Splash out and indulge at the 4* Hotel Oceania L’Univers. This historic hotel has welcome Rockefeller, Roosevelt and Ernest Hemingway amongst many prestigious guests. Wonderfully plush, old school glamour, in a fabulous location and friendly staff. (Parking available).

Great value at Le Grand Tours. There’s a range of rooms styles (and prices) in a terrific art deco building. Friendly staff and conveniently close to Tours station.

Get there: Train from Paris takes a little over an hour.

What to see nearby: Chateau de Chenonceau, the castle of flowers which you can reach by train. You can also take a train to Amboise and Blois from here…

For more information on what to see and do in Tours visit the tourist office: 78-82 Rue Bernard Palissy www.tours-tourism.co.uk

For more information on what to do in the Loire Valley see: www.loirevalley-france.co.uk; uk.france.fr

The post Where to eat out in Tours Loire Valley appeared first on The Good Life France.

Tours in the department of Centre is the gateway city to the Loire Valley. It makes for a great base to visit the area. But, it’s a terrific place to visit in its own right with wide and grand avenues, a charming old town and Haussmanesque style architecture mixed with medieval, Renaissance and modern. In parts it’s reminiscent of Paris and has in fact been acting capital of France on more than one occasion.

The city centre has a lively air. The old part of town is home to a famous cathedral and winding cobbled streets lined with cafés and restaurants and half-timbered houses.

Discover museums, pretty streets to roam, quirky boutiques and lots of shops. There’s loads to do when you’re not tasting wine in vineyards or chateau hopping in the countryside around.

At just an hour from Paris by train it’s very easy to reach…

Cobbled streets and captivating cafés

Tours has a laidback vibe and nowhere is this more obvious than in the charming pedestrianised Place Plumereau in Vieux Tours (the old part of town). Once called the carroi aux chapeau, the hat market, it is lined with 15th century wood-framed and stone-gabled houses, many of them have been converted into cafés, bistros and restaurants.

This little square was voted the best place in France for an aperitif – it’s easy to see why. Tables and chairs spill out onto the square, colourful umbrellas add a splash of colour, an ancient mulberry tree presides. An exuberant atmosphere hangs over the square thanks to it being popular throughout the day for coffee, lunch, ice cream, aperitifs and dinner. Take your pick from a whole raft of excellent eateries (try Les Trois Rois for somewhere atmospheric, pretty and loved by the locals).

All round Place Plumereau are a hodgepodge of cobbled streets with more cafés, restaurants and shops.

Historic Tours

If you’re a history lover, Tours will make you happy as you wander its pretty streets. Joan of Arc had a set of armour made for her here in 1429. Balzac, the French writer who was born in Tours in 1799, hung out in Vieux Tours. The station and town hall were built by Victor Lalou who also built the Orsay station in Paris which later became the Musée d’Orsay.

The Cathedral of Tours is a masterpiece of architecture ranging from flamboyant Gothic to Romanesque and Renaissance. There are some truly spectacular stained glass windows, some of them almost 800 years old. Started in 1239 it took some 300 years to complete and the charming cloisters of the Cathedral featured in Balzac’s Curé de Tours (the character of Madame Garnard lived there).

Inside, a marble tomb is the last resting place of the heirs to the Valois dynasty, the young sons of Charles VIII and Anne of Bretagne. When Charles VIII died (1498) she married his cousin, Louis XII, as he wanted her lands. He had to divorce his wife Jeanne who was interrogated in Tours by church judges who ruled the marriage had never been consummated. The result left him free to marry Anne (Jeanne was later canonised to became Saint Joan of Valois). Anne and Louis had two daughters, one of whom married Francis I, which led to the formal union of France and Brittany.

Where old Tours meets new Tours

There really are enough historic buildings here to please the most ardent history lover. Don’t miss the Musée de Beaux Arts which is located in the former Archbishop’s Palace. It houses a wonderful collection of paintings, ceramics and furnishings including silk panels. Tours was once a thriving silk production centre with 20,000 weavers, after Louis XI (King from 1461-1483) moved production from Lyons saying people were too lazy there.

It’s a mix of old and new here. And they’re not done yet. There’s an ongoing programme of opening up walkways along the river, providing more places to eat, drink and shop. In 2017 a brand new and unique art centre opened, the Centre de Création Contemporaine Olivier Debré. It is contemporary, innovative and hosts mesmerising exhibitions.

And, bringing the old and new together, visit the Atelier d’Ofard, where wallpaper is made by hand to the old methods used in the 17th century. If you’ve ever wondered how the amazing wallpaper you see in Chateaux, such as in the bedroom of Marie-Antoinette at Versailles, then this visit reveals the secrets and history of wallpaper making using wooden blocks and hand mixed pigment. It’s a unique and fascinating tour.

All this discovery builds up an appetite. Luckily you’re in the right place to truly indulge – click here to read about where to eat out in Tours, the places the locals love!

Practical Information for Tours

Tram & bus service. You can buy a rechargeable bus/tram ticket for €1.60 from a bus driver (including the first journey), which can be recharged at major bus/tram stops for €1.50 per trip or €13 for ten trips. These machines take card and change, but not notes. Simply tap the card on a reader to pay for a journey once on the bus.

Top tip: Book tours of chateaux from the tourist office. Many of the greats are easily accessible from here, Chenonceau, Villandry and Chambord to mention just a few.

Where to stay: Splash out and indulge at the 4* Hotel Oceania L’Univers. This historic hotel has welcome Rockefeller, Roosevelt and Ernest Hemingway amongst many prestigious guests. Wonderfully plush, old school glamour, in a fabulous location and friendly staff. (Parking available).

Great value at Le Grand Tours. There’s a range of rooms styles (and prices) in a terrific art deco building. Friendly staff and conveniently close to Tours station.

Get there: Train from Paris takes a little over an hour.

What to see nearby: Chateau de Chenonceau, the castle of flowers which you can reach by train. You can also take a train to Amboise and Blois from here…

For more information on what to see and do in Tours visit the tourist office: 78-82 Rue Bernard Palissy www.tours-tourism.co.uk

For more information on what to do in the Loire Valley see: www.loirevalley-france.co.uk; uk.france.fr

The post What to see and do in historic Tours in the heart of the Loire Valley appeared first on The Good Life France.