Take a stroll through the villages of Alsace in search of the famous storks…

Eight AM. It was the first day of my multi-day walking journey along the wine route of Alsace. Anticipation filled my heart. One of the smallest regions of France, Alsace is big on wonders. There are many hilltop castles, tranquil forests, picture-book-pretty villages and restaurants that serve hearty Alsatian dishes paired with excellent local wines.

As I left the already bustling cobbled streets of Eguisheim behind, I lost myself in the vast vineyards that carpet the surrounding hills. Over the next few days walking from one village to the next, I would find myself devoid of human contact. But never so alone that I was completely without company. Silently gliding with the wind above me, I observed the distinct long red beaks and the black-tipped wings of the famed white storks as they accompanied me on most of my journey.

Storks of Alsace

Visit Alsace in spring or summer and you’ll spot giant nests on rooftops, roadside poles and church towers in almost every village, town and city. Alsace is home to storks which migrate each year from Africa to spend the warmer months in Europe. They seem to particularly like the region’s natural environment.

The storks are faithful, not only to their spouse, but to their dwelling. They return every year to the same nest after their laborious long distance journey. The male arrives first, ensuring the nest is of optimum condition before the female joins him. Their young inherit the migratory instinct and begin their own journey back south in autumn. Amazingly, when the parents make their own path back, they know exactly where to find their offspring.

Telling of times

These birds have become somewhat of an oracle of the time of the year for farming activities, much like the groundhog of America. Stork abundance signifies a good year to come. A lack of storks can mean some hardship in living conditions.

The locals are friendly to storks. Many of the nests are formed on top of iron cages put there specially for the storks to move in. Perhaps it isn’t all for the storks though. If a stork decides to nest on top of a house, it is believed that good fortune (or a baby, if you wish for it) will come to those who live in this house.

The obsession with storks doesn’t stop at encouraging nest-making. Throughout Alsace, storks feature as names of hotels and restaurants, mountain bike trails and walking tours. There’s even a theme park dedicated to storks.

Walking from village to village in the spring, the sight of majestic birds sitting on their nests looking graceful and proud, was a constant feature.

Bird of Peace

Alsace has had a long association with its storks, known as  störig in Alsatian, with a folktale dating back to 817. Louis the Pious, Emperor of the Carolingian Empire, wanted to divide his land among his three sons. Unfortunately, he was persuaded by his second wife to gift the full entitlement to her son only. This caused the other two sons to wage war against their father.

The peaceful storks saw the devastation and bloodshed that followed. And with blood staining their beaks and feet as they surveyed the land, decided to dip the tip of their wings in black and lose their voice in mourning. Storks have remained silent ever since.

Conservation of the white stork

Mute from birth, storks communicate by body language and clapping their beaks. A fact that I learned at the NaturOparC, a stork sanctuary and wildlife education centre in the village of Hunawihr.

In the 1970s, due to human expansion and loss of habitat, the stork population in Alsace hovered between extinction and survival. At one point there were less than ten breeding pairs sighted throughout the region. In 1983, a stork re-introduction programme was begun. One of the first repopulation centres was established in Cernay. Today, 30 stork couples are often seen flying around the town centre along the river looking for food.

Today, the region of Alsace is home to more than 600 couples.

NaturOparC was part of this successful program. It continues to provide a safe, open sanctuary for storks that come to nest in the treetops. Other than the storks undergoing medical treatment, the birds are free to come and go as they please, and the fact that so many stay is a sign that the environment is ideal for them.

Strategically built ladders and walkways allowed me to approach some of the nests at a safe distance (for the storks) and view them up close. Watching the storks relaxing in their nests, sleeping, preening, clapping their beaks – perhaps a couple in argument over whose turn it was to look after the baby – was a fairy tale moment, truly captivating.

The wine bringers

No visit to Alsace is complete without going to a few wine cellars for some tasting. And it is also of no surprise, that the storks have a beak in the wine business too.

“Oh, there are plenty of storks this year,” chuckled the bartender at the Bleger winery in Saint-Hippolyte, a town famous for Alsace’s only red wine, Pinot Noir. “When there are plenty of storks in spring, you know we are going to have a good harvest in autumn.”

Not only do the storks symbolise fertility, the Alsatian consider the storks to be the bringer of luck and wealth, and for the many winemakers of the region, they also bring a year of good harvest, meaning more wine for everyone.

You can visit NaturOparC in Hunawihr as part of the Inntravel self-guided walking itinerary in Alsace. For more information visit: www.inntravel.co.uk

Amy McPherson is a London based travel writer whose work has been featured in international publications. Cats, cycling and food features heavily in her writing and her blog at: www.footprintsandmemories.com

The post The Storks of Alsace appeared first on The Good Life France.

Looking for an alternative to a traditional white Christmas in France? Follow north-west France’s Roman Route, its Route des Cretes (summits) or Route des Orgues – route of church organs and sacred music.

They all end up in the Florival or Launch Valley of the Est region of the Haut Rhin of south Alsace where, if you time your arrival for December, you will guarantee yourself to have a uniquely blue Christmas – even if it’s snowing.

Going potty for pottery and turning a shade of blue for Christmas

Every year in December, everything and everyone turns blue in the small Alsatian town of Guebwiller. To find this little town, head twelve miles north-west of Mulhouse, twenty-five south west of Colmar and five from the le Grand Ballon, the highest point of the Vosges mountain range with its eight ski slopes.

Every year it’s the same – people turn blue. Faces are turquoise and hands and fingers a sickly shade of manganese violet.

Not because of the cold, windburn, or an off-piste ski tan. And not because of the liquorice-scented gluhwein is served nightly at Guebwiller’s Christmas market along with roasted chestnuts.

This is all about paying tribute to a local Art Deco potter. And his famous pioneering glaze.

Theodore Deck (1823-1891) became renowned for his ceramic vessels. He created them using traditional Islamic processes like the “Iznik” style, used to decorate many of Istanbul’s ancient mosques.

Deck included white alkaline to create his signature “bleu de Deck.” It is a distinctive glaze mix of potash, soda carbonate, and chalk, which produces a lavish, deep turquoise blue after firing. In 1887, Deck published a treatise on tin-glazed pottery entitled “La Faïence”.

Global influences

In nineteenth century Britain, Minton similarly revived tin-glazed pottery in the style of Renaissance Italian maiolica following their employment of a French ceramicist in 1849.

Théodore Deck made his living from making tile stoves at a factory in Paris. He revived the lost art of transparent enameling and, working at Sevres, passed on the new aesthetics to ceramicists, Edmond Lachenal and Émile Decoeur. Deck’s faience work was inspired by Saint-Porchaire wares as well as Assyrian, Hispano-Moresque, Chinese, Japanese, Italian Renaissance and Persian ceramics.

Guebwiller pays homage to Deck

Until Twelfth Night Guebwiller’s neo-classical red sandstone 1761 Eglise Notre-Dame is lit blue in celebration of the ceramicist. So is the town hall and other buildings. Beside the church, the museum – in an old canonical building and home of a family of silk ribbon makers, has a collection of 500 of Deck’s famous faience pieces.

What to see in Guebwiller

Guebwiller’s history is linked to the abbey of Murbach built in 727. Most of the current city is built around the Romanesque church of Saint-Leger and Burgstall castle. Enclosed by ramparts between 1270 and 1287, Guebwiller dates largely from the thirteenth century. During the French Revolution, the abbey’s assets were sold to industrial developers and Guebwiller became the second industrial centre after Mulhouse.

Its former Dominican monastery dates to the fourteenth century. The nave is decorated with murals.  The acoustics are reputed to be among the best in Europe which can be verified if you have a heavy cold and are suffering from bouts of sneezing.

Or have eaten too much sauerkraut too quickly.

As well as Deck’s masterpieces, the  town –  at the southerly end of the Alsace Wine Route – has four “Grand Crus” ( Spiegel , Kessel , Kitterle, Saering). All the local vineyards offer tastings of their own masterpieces of viticultural art. There’s “moulleux”, “Cremant” sparkling, sweet “vendanges tardives” (late harvest) and “selections of des grains”. The best include Schlumberger Domaine, the Ollwiller vineyard at Wuenheim, Orschwir, Bollenburg and the Noble Valley as well as the cellars of Leon Boesch, Renee Flack, Camille Braun and Materne Haegelin.

If you’re feeling peckish, try family-run “Taverna des Vignerons” and “Jardin des Sens” which offer lighter, easier-on-the-colon options to hearty pork shin, pork knuckle, stuffed pigs trotters and beef slabs with an alp of sauerkraut and the famous lengthy, bendy sausages.

What to see near Guebwiller

Thann, 25km from Guebwiller on the river Thur is the start or finish of the “Route des Vins”.  Its well-known for its storks nests, 1411 Witches’ Tower and late Middle Ages Collegiale Saint-Thiebaut. And nearby, Eguisheim is the  definitive Alsatian town. Half-timbered buildings, “winstubs”, year-round window boxes, cobblestone streets and a charming Christmas market. It could be a backcloth for any Christmas pantomime.

A good base to tour southern Alsace is Dominique and William Pralong’s 1858 “Domaine de Beaupre”, once the De Bay family mansion, textile manufacturers in Guebwiller. Now it is an “artistic space”, holding concerts, recitals and art events, displaying the works of lesser known artists. Even the paintings in your room are for sale.

Bertrand and Florence Gelly’s “Caveau Heuhaus” in Eguisheim is a tasty cellar restaurant offering regional specialties like  tartes flambees or “flammekueche” (Alsatian pizza).

In Soultz, Gregory Rominger’s “Metzgerstuwa” (“butcher’s table”) restaurant adjoins and was once in a butcher’s shop.  One of its specialities is lamb kidneys flambeed in brandy.

So there’s no excuse whatsoever in going to Alsace and not coming back glowing with the good life. And looking like you’ve had a great “Noel Bleu”.

www.ville-guebwiller.fr
www.visit.alsace

By Kevin Piley, a former professional cricketer, now travel writer. He’s also the former chief staff writer of PUNCH magazine and has written for over 600 titles.

The post Guebwiller’s colourful Christmas traditions appeared first on The Good Life France.

 Janine Marsh explores Metz, the historic city of light where a dragon once lived…

“Anyone been to Metz?” I asked in my local bar in the Seven Valleys, Pas de Calais. There was silence. Even in France, Metz is not well known and if you’re from outside of France you might not even have heard of it.

Metz is in the northeast of France, in the Moselle department. It is the capital of the region formerly known as Lorraine, now joined up with Champagne, Ardennes and Alsace and called Grand Est.

Metz is one of France’s oldest cities with a history going back some 3,000 years and the fact that it is rather under the tourism radar is astonishing. Close to Luxembourg and Germany, it is a superbly gastronomic city. It is historic, architecturally glorious, home to arguably France’s oldest church – the basilica of Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains which began life in the 4th century, and a Cathedral which has the largest expanse of stained glass windows in the world. There are magnificent museums including a branch of the Pompidou, the city is surrounded by glorious, mountainous countryside – and yet, it’s less than an hour and a half from Paris.

48 hours in Metz

Metz is steeped in history and character. It’s a city of architectural contrasts, with a medieval district, classical 18^th  century architecture in the Place d’Armes and Palais de Justice, the enormous neo-Romanesque train station built by the Germans at the start of the 20^th century, and a modern side too including the extraordinary Pompidou centre behind the station.

It’s a compact city that’s easy to discover on foot, but if you want to take it easy there a free hop-on-hop off navette bus, and  there are loads of cosy cafés and funky bars to tempt you to stop awhile.

The must-sees in Metz

The great Gothic cathedral of Metz

 In medieval days, Metz was a mecca for artists and the Cathedral St Etienne, the third highest in France,  beautifully illustrates the skill of stone masons and artisans of the day. Made from golden local Jaumont stone it has stood for more than 800 years (built between 1220-1522). The vast stained glass windows (69,920 sq ft) have earned it the nickname ‘God’s Lantern’. The windows here range from medieval masterpieces by Hermann de Münster and Thiébauld de Lixheim to striking modern panes by Jacques Villon and Marc Chagall. During WWII the windows were removed and stored in crates, sent to Château de Dissay, near Poitiers. This didn’t save them however, they were discovered and sent to Germany. Miraculously they were found in a salt mine and returned to their home after the war.

At night the cathedral is illuminated and is one of the reasons the city is known as the Ville Lumières.

Museums of Metz

Housed in an old Carmelite convent, Les Musées de la Cour d’Or contains three museums. The Musée Archaeologique has one of the most important collections of Gallo-Romain archaeology in France including preserved ancient baths preserved. The Musée d’Architecture showcases Romanesque and Gothic pieces. And the Musée des Beaux Arts includes works by a range of prominent artists including Delacroix, Corot and Sargent.

Pompidou Centre

A regional branch of Paris’s Pompidou Centre opened in Metz in 2010. The avante-garde building, which is highlighted by an undulating roof, houses an extensive collection of modern art. The 77-meter high spire is a nod to the year 1977, when the Paris Center Pompidou opened. Modern and contemporary art exhibitions are regularly updated. The centre has a café and a very nice restaurant with a terraced area.

The Imperial Quarter

Between 1902 and 1914, the Imperial Quarter around the train station was built to strict Germanic town planning principals. Originally called Neue Stadt (new city) the area has some of the best preserved examples of German Empire urbanism, especially the luxurious villas on Avenue Foch and the remarkable train station.

The Graoully – Metz’s dragon

The legend goes that a terrible dragon named the Graoully terrorised the people of Metz until the city’s first Bishop, Saint Clement, drowned it. It’s said that the Bishop led the dragon from its lair, along a narrow road to the River Seille, warning onlookers “Taisons-nous/keep quiet, don’t wake the monster.’ Stroll along the pretty cobbled street of what is now called rue Taison, and if you look up, away from the many boutiques and cafés, you’ll spot the Graoully, hanging above you!

Don’t miss

Porte des Allemands and the ramparts. The old city gate (Gate of the Germans) and a miniature fortified medieval castle spans the river Seille. The ramparts once formed a 7km enclosure punctuated by 18 gates and 38 towers. You can follow the ramparts path along the river Moselle.

Head to the Quai des Régates and take an electric boat tour. You can even combine it with wine tasting or aperitifs. And take a break in the park at Metz Marina, Port de Plaisance.

Les Halles: The U-shaped covered market on Place de la Cathédrale has a superb range of food including a shop selling local Mirabelle (plum) brandy. Take a break at the market bistro L’Assiette du Marché. Or pick up something delicious like fuseau lorrain, a soft garlic sausage that’s a regional specialty from Chez Mauricette opposite.

The squares: In the heart of Metz, renovated squares are a great place to relax. Try the Place de Chambre (nicknamed the gourmet square of Metz), the Place d’Armes (the medieval Place Saint-Louis, and the Place de la République. Place Jeanne d’Arc is just perfect for summer drinks and dining

Where to eat

El Theatris in Place de la Comédie on the Petit Saulcy island in the centre of Metz. Here they serve gastronomic food with an emphasis on local, seasonal products. One of the dining rooms is the former office of the Marquis de Lafayette, French aristocrat and American Revolution War hero. He was appointed commander of the French army at Metz in 1791.

Head out of the city to Sarreguemines (around an hour by car). Once there, indulge in a Michelin starred feast created by Chef Stephan Schneider at the gorgeous 4* hotel Auberge Saint-Walfrid: www.stwalfrid.fr

Where to stay

 4* MGallery La Citadelle Hotel in a former 16th century military building. Superb décor and fabulous views over the cathedral from some rooms. 5 Av. Ney, 57000 Metz

Did you know?

Metz is pronounced Mess which is not a grammar thing – it’s unique to Metz. In fact, says Vivienne Rudd from Metz tourist office, even most Messins (people of Metz) don’t know why it’s pronounced this way. Metz was called Divodorum Médiomatricorum in Gallo-Roman – a bit of a mouthful and horrendous for inscribers of the day. In the 5th century, it was shortened to Mettis then to Mets, Mèz, Mès, Metz and Mess in the 14th century. A recent article suggests that 17th century French printers wanted to use the German “ß” symbol to represent the double “s”. However they didn’t have a key. So they replaced it with something that looked (a bit) like it: “tz”, but the old pronunciation stuck… Why? Because it’s easier to say!

Useful information

Trains to Metz run from Gare de l’Est, Paris and take from 83 minutes.

www.tourisme-metz.com

The post What to see and do in Metz, Lorraine appeared first on The Good Life France.

Colmar in Alsace is irresistibly pretty. The old town is brimming with wonky ancient buildings. The gentle river is perfect for boat rides. Flower bedecked streets and squares vie for your attention. There are museums galore as well as outstanding bars and restaurants. You’ll find something to please just about everyone in this photogenic city…

Colmar’s historic old quarter

Colmar’s old town quarter is crossed by cobbled streets lined with half timbered houses and renaissance manor houses decorated with flowers. To the South of the town centre, where the Lauch River diverges from its canal, is where tanners, winemakers and fishmongers used to make their homes and ply their trades. The river is crossed by two bridges from which there are wonderful views across to rows of half-timbered houses. Pop into Colmar’s old covered market for regional products. And take a boat trip to get great views of the city.

Home to the designer of the Statue of Liberty

Musée Bartholdi is dedicated to sculptor, Frederic Auguste Bartholdi and is located in his former home. He is famous for designing the Statue of Liberty. He also created the monumental Lion of Belfort as well as the statue of Vercongetorix in Clermont-Ferrand, two of France’s most popular emblems.

You can see more of his sculptures around Colmar, including the Schwendi Fountain. It’s topped by Bartholdi’s statue of Austrian Holy Roman Empire commander, Lazarus von Schwendi holding vines in his right hand. Schwendi ruled in the 16^th century from the Chateau du Hohlandsbourg a few miles to the west of the city. Legend has it that he brought the pinot gris wine grape to Alsace.

What to see in Colmar

In a city brimming with fairytale pretty houses, Maison Pfister is a knockout. Constructed in 1537, for wealthy hat-maker Ludwig Schurer it manages to be quaintly cute and gorgeously grand at the same time. The Renaissance architecture is wonderfully preserved with 16th-century frescoes in muted colours, and medallions on the facade. The turreted spiral stairway and wooden gallery on the third floor are magnificent.

The Maison des Têtes – the house of heads – is tucked between two quite ordinary French houses. It’s a manor house that takes its name from the 106 carved stone heads on its facade. Originally built for Anton Burger, a rich merchant who was also Mayor of Colmar at the start of the 17th century. At the top is a statued called the Tonnelier de Colmar, a city symbol representing a cooper, maker of barrels. It was designed by Bartholdi and placed there in 1902.

Opposite the House of Heads, pop into the quirky Hansi Museum. Discover the art of ‘Uncle’ Hansi, with a pretty reconstruction of an Alsatian village and artwork by Jean-Jacques Waltz, known as Hansi, famous for his depictions of old Alsace.

Toys and Museums

If you’re a toy fan then head to Colmar’s former cinema. It’s now a museum of toys and models from every era since the 1800’s. Channel your inner nostalgia with a range of video game consoles from the 80’s and 90’s. There are meccano buildings, Barbie dolls, Lego sets and robots. On the upper floor is a whopping great working model railway network. It covers 120 square metres. (If you’re a fan of model railways and trains, then don’t miss the Train Museum at Mulhouse, around 35 mins drive from Colmar).

A stunning 13^th century Dominican convent is home to one of France’s best regional museums – the Unterlinden Museum. An incredible collection which features seven millennia’s worth of history including art from the late-gothic and renaissance eras. There’s also a Gallo-Roman mosaic, Romanesque capitals, paintings by Picasso, Renoir and Monet, engravings by Albrecht Durer, and a stunning 17th-century painted harpsichord. Don’t miss the museum’s Schongauer Café which is in the former swimming pool building built in 1906.

The wine route

Alsace has one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world. Tucked away in the east of France, on the border with Germany, the vineyards produce fabulous wines. The Alsatian Wine Route is 170 kilometres long and flows through picturesque villages, castles and glorious countryside. Discover the wine culture, meet the wine-growers, visit the caves and taste some of the finest Rieslings ever made.

More on Alsace

What to see and do in Petite France Strasbourg The old district of Strasbourg is utterly fabulous.

What to see and do in Mulhouse

Things to do in winter in Alsace

Where to eat out in Strasbourg

The astonishing car museum of Mulhouse

Riquewihr in photos – the pretty little town on the Alsace wine route is stupendously lovely…

The post Guide to Colmar in Alsace appeared first on The Good Life France.

Perfectly preserved, the picturesque Petite France district in the city of Strasbourg, Alsace, north east France, is one of those places where visitors, on seeing it for the first time, stop in their tracks and whisper “wow”.

Pretty half-timbered houses, beautifully decorated bars and restaurants and the sparkling water of the River Ill make this a magnet for tourists. But, it wasn’t always this way…

History of Petite France, the old district of Strasbourg

The area where Petite France is located was once popular with fishermen, tanners and millers, home to workers and the poor. Washhouses lined the sides of the river. Even at the turn of the 20^th century, there were still around 100 wash houses in use.

I wonder what they would think of the fact that this area is now a trendy, much loved tourist attraction.

The name Petite France isn’t anywhere as romantic as you might think. It’s an island which, in the 15^th century was where soldiers of French king Charles VII were sent to a hospital which specialised in treating syphilis. It was nicknamed the “French disease”, and the island became “Petite France”.

So, it was considered the sort of place you really didn’t choose to go to and as a result was pretty much left alone. It was a poor area and largely abandoned by the authorities. In fact, if it weren’t for some artists who had discovered just how pretty the area was, it might not be there today as it was only due to their protests that some of the most iconic buildings we now know and love, weren’t demolished by the city council.

It wasn’t until the 1970s that things began to look up for Petite France. The area was pedestrianised, making the enchanting cobbled streets and pretty footbridges which crisscross the river, perfect for strolling. Cafés, bars and restaurants opened. Pleasure boats took passengers alongside the beautiful medieval buildings. It’s the perfect place for a gastronomic stop with restaurants serving traditional dishes and Alsace wines.

Petite France is now part of a UNESCO listed heritage site, full of charm – and a must-see visit if you’re in Strasbourg.

What to see and do in Petite France

It’s a small island and easy to wander about. You should definitely allow time for a break at the many eateries to enjoy the views. And to shop at the quirky boutiques (including an all year-round Christmas shop). The architecture is astonishingly well-preserved, one of the finest buildings, the Tanners House built in 1572, now a restaurant, is one of the most famous landmarks of the area. It really is a fairy-tale looking place, where every street is a photo-worthy opp.

Around the island is also magnificent. The 13^th century “Covered Bridges”, built for city defence but no longer covered, are great for a panoramic view over Petite France.

Opposite the Covered Bridges, is the Barrage Vauban (Dam). It was built to military plans supplied by Louis XIV’s genius military engineer, Vauban. It could flood the area if the town were under attack. Climb to the top of the dam where there’s a terrace from which the views are truly sublime, with the great Gothic Cathedral in the background.

Behind the Vauban Dam, which is beautifully lit at night, is the Museum of Modern Art which is well worth seeking out.

At the edge of Petite France, you’ll find the Quai Saint-Nicolas. Built in the 15^th century. From here it’s a just a few minutes’ walk to the Musée Historique de la Ville de Strasbourg, the Cathedral, the Musée des Beaux Arts and the fabulous cobbled streets of the Cathedral district.

How to get to Petite France

From Paris, the fast train takes from just 1 hour 46 minutes, with 16 trains a day. It’s a short walk to the Petite France district and to the main sites of Strasbourg including the Cathedral.

You could do a day trip from Paris – but longer is better as there really is a lot to see.

More on Strasbourg

What to see and do in Strasbourg
Where to eat out in Strasbourg
Top Museums in Strasbourg
Christmas market Strasbourg
Winter in Alsace Top visits

Useful websites

Strasbourg tourism, France. fr

The post What to see and do in Petite France, Strasbourg appeared first on The Good Life France.

Nothing beats sipping delicious Champagne in Champagne. It is the drink of choice for celebrations around the world and it is only produced in one beautiful area of France.

“Champagne is the only wine that leaves a woman beautiful after drinking it” claimed Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of Louis XV, a woman who was known for her intelligence as well as her beauty. Loved by Kings and Queens, favoured by Napoleon, adored by Marilyn Monroe – Champagne the drink has won a legion of fans for centuries.

Take a small group tour with tastings of world class Champagnes. Discover the history and culture of Champagne’s main cities. And explore the vineyards and magnificent scenery of the region with family run Ophorus Tours.

Champagne cities

Roam in Reims, the capital of the Champagne region. Visit the Gothic Cathedral and wonder at the Roman ruins. Take a tour where your English speaking expert tour guide will reveal the history of the city and its jewel, the UNESCO listed Gothic Cathedral where the Kings of France were crowned.

You’ll discover the major Champagne houses in Reims. And, you’ll visit one of the most legendary of them all. Plus you’ll enjoy a delicious tasting followed by a delectable lunch with more bubbles.

Visit a family run Champagne estate in the glorious countryside with your guide and driver. All you have to do is relax and enjoy the tasting. You will learn the secrets of how to make Champagne and see how it is matured in dark cellars across the region. Millions and millions of bottles fizzing away, the result of centuries of French savoire-faire.

Explore Epernay, aka the capital of Champagne the drink. Wander its graceful streets and ogle at the centuries-old mansions in the famous Avenue de Champagne. Discover its fascinating history and stop off at the world-famous Grande Maison De Champagne Moët & Chandon, where Napoleon often stayed.

Champagne vineyards and villages

Visit the picturesque village of Hautvillers, the cradle of Champagne. It’s here that the monk Dom Perignon, who is said to have “invented” Champagne, claimed on sipping it: “come quickly, I am tasting the stars”.

And discover the Grand Crus villages in the mountains of Reims, surrounded by those precious vineyards.

With an expert guide, you’ll learn the fascinating history of the drink and the region. And, you won’t need to worry about enjoying the bubbles since all transportation will be provided.

Book a half day, full day or longer brilliant Champagne tour to really experience the effervescence at: ophorus.com

Tours start from Reims train station, less than an hour from Paris.

The post The best Champagne tours of Champagne appeared first on The Good Life France.

Mulhouse in Alsace in the northeast of France is a master of reinvention. It was once a flourishing textile and manufacturing town but globalisation of industry has brought change – and for Mulhouse that means change too. The city is undergoing a metamorphosis – but with a nod to its powerful past. It boasts the world’s biggest car museum, an incredible train museum, electricity museum and more. Former factories are being converted into restaurants and artists residences. It’s street art heaven. And, pop up shops with original clothes and accessories you won’t find anywhere else are making their mark.

This city has a buzz about it. It’s thriving once more thanks to major support for its artistic community – with the largest artists’ residence in France – and its love for culture and heritage. Here’s what to see and do in Mulhouse, Alsace.

Cité de l’Automobile

There are over 400 cars at the immense car museum in Mulhouse. Car enthusiasts come from around the world to see some of the rare cars on display. There are incredibly well preserved masterpieces from cars of the 1870s to the 1970s mostly, though there are also some awesome racing cars that are more modern. Priceless Bugatti’s take centre stage, gleaming and sleek, they’re as rare as hens teeth.

Hire a classic car (I chose a Ferrari!) to drive round the private track at the museum, take the kids to enjoy a go kart track, games and workshops. There’s so much here, you can spend an entire day at this one – and probably a lot more! Read our review of Cité de l’Automobile, Mulhouse. www.citedelautomobile.com/

Cité du Train

The train museum of Mulhouse has the biggest collection of trains in the world. There are locomotives from the 1840’s through to the newer steam and diesel and electric trains that are in use to this day. The exhibits are interactive and impressive. Take the petit train round the museum which is monumental, ride on a diesel train on the museum’s private track and take a train ride in the open air on a miniature railway. Whatever your age, this museum is huge fun. Read our review of Mulhouse Train Museum. www.citedutrain.com

EDF Electropolis Museum

A museum dedicated to electricity? Yes! Electroplois is the biggest of its kind in Europe and it’s fascinating. There’s a working steam generator from 1901, and an exhibition which covers early experiments conducted from the 17th century up to modern day. There’s lots of vintage machinery to admire too, Voss’s electrostatic machine, Edison’s Dictaphone, and early versions of TV’s and fridges. There are also lectures and workshops – invited to stand in a cage and have my hair stand on end, who could possibly resist! www.musee-electropolis.fr

Parc Zoologique et Botanique

Founded in 1868 and covering over 20 hectares of the Tannenwald Forest, Mulhouse zoo contains over 1000 animals of more than 170 different species. The artic area is home to the polar bears and artic foxes, the large enclosures are home to the Siberian tigers, snow leopards and meerkats. The botanical gardens are heavenly and calm, in the summer months over 400 types of Iris flowers bloom beautifully alongside exotic trees from Japan and America. www.zoo-mulhouse.com

Tour du Belvedere

Not far from Mulhouse zoo is a sort of mini Eiffel Tower known as the Belvedere Tower. It’s not for those who have a fear of heights but the view from the top, at 350m above sea level is outstanding. You can see as far as Colmar and the Black Forest. There’s also a great park which is perfect for a wander and a picnic.

Hotel de Ville

The former Town Hall in a medieval building is covered in stunning trompe l’oeil paintings, with images of justice, courage, temperance, faith and charity. The eagle eyed will spot a stone head hanging from a chain, known as the klapperstein, which weighed 12 kilos and would be hung from the necks of gossipers and scandalmongers, who would be made to wear it riding around the city backwards on a donkey!

Ecomusée d’Alsace

In the town of Ungersheim, just North of Mulhouse, you’ll find one of Europe’s largest outdoor heritage museums. Over 100 hectares of countryside and village, with 70 historic houses from around the region that were saved from demolition and rebuilt at this attraction, brick by brick. Visit potters, blacksmiths and wheelwrights workshops and watch demonstrations depicting medieval life in Alsace. Don’t forget to look up to admire the storks nests on the roofs.

Musée de l’Impression sur Étoffe

This museum is dedicated to the decorative arts, fashion, local history and industry of the textile business. There are some original machines from the early years of industrialised printing, including a Lefèvre copper roller from 1809, and a whole range of sewing machines.

There’s also a display of wonderful printed fabrics including some which were produced to decorate the Hotel de Ville – a Christmas speciality of Mulhouse.

Arty Mulhouse

Motoco is typical of the regeneration that’s turning this city into a major creative hub. It’s the biggest artists residence in the whole of France with 140 artists, artisans and creative companies sharing 80 rented studios in a monumental former factory of textile giant DMC. A range of arts are practiced here from multimedia to dance, performance, sculpting, painting and more. Artists come from all over Europe to work and collaborate. Though not open to the public all the time, check with the tourist office to discover Motoco’s open days or book a workshop with an artist.

Le Sechoir is in a former tile factory which is now a vibrant exhibition space and studios. It hosts more than a dozen artists and holds regular exhibitions in a huge open plan space. It’s open on weekends and free to enter and if you’re looking for something gorgeous and unique as a memento of Mulhouse to take home, you’re sure to find it here. Check at the tourist office for “open door days” when the artists will be on site to present and chat about their work.

Shops in Mulhouse

Art is everywhere in Mulhouse and there are several shops which proactively support and promote the work of resident artists. La Vitrine Volante shop pops up in different parts of the city at different times (check at the tourist office for details). Le Bocal is another outlet for artists which focuses on homeware and showcases work by artists from Motoco. You can also buy works of art by Motoco’s artists at the tourist office.

Where to eat out in Mulhouse

Café NoMad is in a former foundry and ever since it opened in 2018, it’s been super popular with the locals. The integrity of the industrial origins of the building have been kept. But, its brick walls and industrial pipes combined with funky and vintage artefacts contrasts fabulously with stylish lighting. You’ll find a menu with great street food style dishes – burgers, ribs and chicken teriyaki etc. The popular cocktail list keeps the bar stools permanently filled. Don’t miss the creamy, coconutty, zingy pineapple based Colada’nanas. Full of locals, great for families, friends and couples. Book in advance online if you want to be sure of a table.

Tilvist Coff’Tea Shop serves food like maman makes at home. It’s a funky shop and neighbourhood café and social workplace. Try the Bretzels Mulhouse style. It has the flakiest pastry filled with ham and local cheese, perfect with a tasty salad and freshly made smoothie. Afterwards browse the shop shelves filled with local speciality products. There are some brilliant artisan made goods from pottery and glassware to greetings cards, ornaments, textile art and gorgeous bags.

Café Mozart is a must when you’re in town. The locals love it as much for its location and spectacular views over the city’s main square, Place de la Réunion, as its sensational cakes and delicious seasonal menu. Inside the café, Patisserie Jacques has been making the locals happy for more than eight decades. The family run business is now run by third generation pastry chef Michel Bannwarth. Open for breakfast and lunch with a varied menu including delicious quiches and pies. But of course the cakes take centre stage with scrumptious and irresistible classics.

How to get to Mulhouse

By train from Paris takes around 2 hours 41 minutes. It’s also easy to travel around the region by train. Strasbourg to Mulhouse takes just 43 minutes and Mulhouse to Dijon in neighbouring Burgundy is from just over an hour.

Useful websites

Mulhouse Tourism; UKFrancefr

The post What to see and do in Mulhouse Alsace appeared first on The Good Life France.

Alsace is the quintessential winter destination with its fairy tale like villages, especially with a dusting of snow. Museums are less crowded, menus reflect the season with robust and tasty dishes and there’s not much that beats enjoying a glass of wine in a cosy café. We look at some of the best things to do in winter in Alsace…

Wine tasting and delicious dishes.

When the grape harvest is over, the vine leaves have all blown away and the wind whistles through the vineyards – you might be surprised to know it’s a good time to visit some of the best wine growing regions in France including Alsace. Many vineyards are open for tastings in winter and wine makers have more time to chat. Alsace is famous for its luscious white wines such as Riesling and Gewürztraminer, perfect winter whites. Follow the vineyard trails on the designated Route de Vin and enjoy numerous wine tastings. Find out more about the Alsace Wine Routes: alsace-wineroute.com/en

Local specialities are numerous and the influence of neighbouring Germany is strong. Choucroute (sauerkraut) is served everywhere as is baeckeoffe, a meat and wine stew and flammekeuche a delicious thin crust pizza with sour cream. Finish with kugelhopf or birewecke. This bread style cake is filled with dried fruits and spices – and a lot of Kirsch.

Riquewihr

Base yourself in the enchanting village of Riquewihr if you like tiny villages in the countryside. With quaint half-timbered houses, wine bars and fabulous restaurants, it’s a jewel of a place. It’s not a big town but it is incredibly pretty, like a fairy-tale come to life. Wander the old town streets and you’ll believe you’ve woken up in the world of Hansel and Gretel. It’s a great base for touring the countryside (you’ll need wheels, public transport isn’t an option).

Take a wine tasting in Riquewihr: Domaine Dopff open year-round (dopff-au-moulin.fr), the first winemaking house to produce Crémant d’Alsace.

Wine and dine: Au Trotthus. Chef Philippe Aubron cooks up a storm in this beautiful, cosy building next to the Dolder Tower, a 13th century landmark. The dishes are beautiful to look at and seriously delicious. His apple pie and home-made ice cream is probably the best you will ever taste.  (trotthus.com).

Stay at: Hotel L’Oriel in an ancient building, right in the centre. It’s so pretty it looks as if it’s made out of gingerbread! The hotel bar is great to relax in with a glass of wine and in winter this cosy nook is just about perfect.

What to see near Riquewihr

From here it’s easy to tour the area. Just a short drive away, Ribeauville is magical. And, don’t miss enchanting Eguisheim, voted favourite village of the French in 2013. Colmar is a must-see. This biggish city has a sensational old town, known as “little Venice” thanks to the canal that criss crosses it, lined with gorgeous old houses in every pastel shade there is. Strasbourg is less than an hour’s drive away.

Mulhouse is also close by and a fantastic place to visit for its world famous car museum and sensational train museum. I promise, there’s not another museum like these in the world!

Head to Kaysersberg for a taste of yesteryear. This lovely little village was voted favourite village of the French in 2017. Or climb the hill at Koenigsbourg, where you’ll find an extraordinary chateau  with stunning views, it is atmospheric and fascinating. Here you’ll really get a feel for how tough winters were in days gone by!

You could even head for the Vosges mountains for a spot of skiing.

Strasbourg

If you want more activity, especially at night, then base yourself in Strasbourg, the capital of Alsace. In the winter the frosted cobbled streets are enchanting. There’s plenty to do, the restaurants are superb, and, the museums are super cosy!

The best things to do in Strasbourg

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Strasbourg in the north east of France in Alsace (now known as Grand Est), is a city of medieval houses, glorious architecture, fabulous restaurants, cultural venues, wine and art, watery arteries and stunning buildings – there’s something for everyone to fall in love with here…

The best way to visit Strasbourg is on foot. You’ll miss things otherwise and this is a city that is full of things you shouldn’t miss. Colourful streets lined with half-timbered houses, winding alleys of shops and restaurants and elegant courtyards. Fairy tale pretty in some parts such as the Petite Ile, architecturally splendid in others, the Neustadt (new town area) for instance, and friendly, funky and fun in areas like the Place d’Austerlitz and its surroundings. You can rack up the footsteps here though it’s a small big city. But that’s not a bad thing as the calories you burn can be replaced at so many restaurants that are seriously scrumptious. I promise you, you don’t come to Strasbourg and start a diet!

What to see and do in Strasbourg

Petite France

If you love towns with medieval half-timbered houses painted the colours of a pastel rainbow – you’ll be in seventh heaven in Strasbourg’s Petite France district on the Grand Ile where canals cascade to create a stunning landscape. In the 16^th century people suffering from syphilis were sent here to isolate them from the mainland. It was considered quite a poor district until the late 1980s. Now UNESCO listed, it’s a major attraction and perfect for a stroll, for sitting at a terrace watching the world go by and for shopping, with many of the former washhouses now restaurants and quirky stores. It’s easy to spend a half day wandering. Or even a whole day if you like to take your time and explore in detail and relax along the way.

The Cathedral of Notre-Dame Strasbourg

The number 1 attraction in Strasbourg is the red stone Cathedral with around four million visitors a year. You don’t need to be a cathedral fan for this one. The sheer monumental size and exquisite detail is mind boggling. The cathedral is, to quote a cliché, breath-taking and features amongst its medieval stained glass windows, a 14m high rose window. It was the tallest man made building in France until the 19^th century. Though it was closed when I went, you can climb the 329 steps in one of the towers for a birds eye view over the city and as far as the Vosges Mountains.

Strasbourg Cathedral is over one thousand years old. Construction of the original, on the site of a Roman temple, began in 1015 but was destroyed by a fire. Reconstruction started in the 12th century, when the Gothic style of architecture was coming into vogue. Building went on through the 13th century and was finally completed in 1439 with the addition of the spire.

There’s an astronomical clock which lures the crowds every day, especially at 12.30 pm when a parade of automaton figurines including the apostles takes place.

Lit up at night, and on a cobbled square lined with shops and restaurants, it really is eye-poppingly incredible.

Take a Virtual Visit to Strasbourg Cathedral

Enjoy a virtual visit to this spectacular Cathedral and see it from outside and within: www.alsace-360.fr/2015/Fondation-Oeuvre-Notre-Dame/visite-virtuelle-insolite-cathedrale-strasbourg/

Boat ride

Hire an electric boat and see Strasbourg from its watery arteries at your own pace. Or, if you’d like to relax and take in the sights including the swanky buildings of the European Parliament without effort, join a guided boat ride with Batorama. If you want to take photos on a sunny day, book the open top boat (not the closed boat).

Museums

There are around a dozen museums in Strasbourg and if you’re a history fan you’re going to absolutely love the medieval museum and the Museum of Decorative Arts.

Read more about Strasbourg Museums here.

Inside track: +700 year old wine cellar/shop

You’re unlikely to ever find this place unless someone tells you. I’ve spoken to lots of locals who don’t even know about it!

A wine cellar in a hospital! If you think you know Strasbourg think again… This amazing cellar was created in 1395. It’s even older than the Hospices de Beaune. And why you might ask is there a wine cellar in a hospital in the middle of Strasbourg? Well,  in the 14th century when it opened, only the rich could afford to pay for their medicine and care with money. That was less than 1 in 10 patients. So the hospital took payment in wine and vineyards too, over time becoming the biggest owner of vineyards in the region.

The hospital practiced “wine therapy”. Basically they allowed 2L of wine per day for each patient. They had a point – wine was lighter then with a 4-6% alcohol content but importantly it was cleaner than drinking water. The fermentation process killed bacteria so it was seen as a medicine.

Wine made in 1472!

Nowadays the hospital no longer owns heaps of vineyards. But, they keep the cellar open and locals know it is THE place to buy wine. The reason being that the hospital did a deal with local wine producers. They allow the producers to mature their finest wines in the renovated ancient barrels, some of which date back centuries. In return the producers gift the cellar thousands of bottles of wine each year. The cellar sells the bottles and all profits are passed to the hospital. Reach it via the hospital car park – you’ll see a plaque on the wall in a corner. Go down the stairs and here you’ll discover the cellar. It’s home to the oldest bottle of white wine in the world, dating to 1472. In fact they have a whole barrel of it but assured me it’s not drinkable!

If you’re really lucky you’ll meet Thibaud, a genial Frenchman who speaks impeccable English with a strong Australian accent and who will answer your questions about wine and the cellar. Don’t forget to buy a bottle to enjoy tout de suite or take home. I had one of the best Pinot Gris’ ever from here, matured in one of those ancient barrels it was memorable at 10 euros a bottle.

Free visit during opening hours. You can rent an audio guide (several languages) for a 30 minute tour. Group tours may be booked in advance (in English), and wine tasting on Portes-Ouvertes (special opening days). www.vins-des-hospices-de-strasbourg.fr/en/

Tips for souvenir hunters

If you’re after something to take home from Strasbourg, don’t miss the year-round Christmas shop. I went on a brilliant summer’s day and it felt like Christmas inside this quirky store with its Christmas trees and figurines! Un Noël en Alsace, 10 Rue des Dentelles.

Gingerbread: Head to the shop of Mireille Oster to buy some of the best gingerbread in town. She’s a 3rd generation maker and travel around the world to source spices for the gingerbread and biscuits which are made to an original recipe. 14 rue des Dentelles.

You could also buy some of the local pretty pottery, or kelsch (traditional linen cloth from Alsace), tablecloths, heart-shaped napkins. There are plenty of shops selling them.

Where to stay

Hotel Hannong is just a couple of minutes from Petite France and the Cathedral and a few minutes to the train station.  Everything here is designed to cosset and pamper you. The bathroom products are lovely. It has the comfiest beds. Nothing jars the eye or the senses from the bedroom to the bathroom, bar and breakfast which is legendary. When I mentioned to a hotelier in Mulhouse that my next stop was Strasbourg and the Hotel Hannong they told me the breakfast is famous. They weren’t wrong, there’s even a juice bar and smoothie bar where you can make your own combo.

How to get around

It’s really easy to walk everywhere in Strasbourg. However, you can take the tram around town and further afield. Get tickets from vending machine on each platform or at the tourist office.How to get there

Hi-speed train from Paris takes just 1 hour and 46 minutes.

Useful websites

Strasbourg tourism, France. fr

More on Strasbourg

Where to eat out in Strasbourg – seriously delicious tips for visitors who like food!
Instagram-worthy Strasbourg – the prettiest scenes in this gorgeous city

The post The best things to do in Strasbourg, Alsace appeared first on The Good Life France.

Strasbourg, the capital of Alsace, has a dozen museums. Many of them are in historic buildings like the Museum of History which is in a 16th century former slaughterhouse and a voodoo museum (yes you did read that right), in a water tower! There’s a varied range of exhibitions from antiquity to contemporary – something to suit all tastes.

Palais Rohan

The Palais Rohan de Strasbourg was built between 1732 and 1742 to plans by Robert de Cotte, Principal Architect to the King, for Cardinal Armand-Gaston de Rohan-Soubise, Prince-Bishop of Strasbourg. Designed to resemble one of the great Parisian mansions, this magnificent residence has remained virtually unchanged since it was built. Many visitors miss this one as the building, although huge, seems tucked away in a corner on a large square overlooking the river.

It’s now home to the Musée des Beaux-Arts with a major collection of European paintings which includes Botticelli, Rubens and Canaletto.  The Musée Archéologique is in the basement. And there’s a Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Musée des Arts Decoratif

It’s a fascinating museum composed of sumptuous apartments of the former cardinals with artefacts from the 17^th to the 19^th century from tapestries to tableware, furniture and paintings. There’s a real atmosphere here, it feels as if nothing has changed in hundreds of years and you get a feeling for how public and private lives of the wealthy inhabitants differed. Extraordinarily rich architecture and decor, beautiful furnishings – it’s one you shouldn’t miss if you love history and beautiful things…

Musée de l’Ouevre Notre-Dame | Medieval Museum

Next door to Palais Rohan, this is another museum that’s absolutely stunning. I could have spent several hours in the Medieval Museum, there’s so much to see. Located in a former stone masons house and buildings from the 14^th -16^th centuries, it houses masterpieces of sculpture from the middle ages, and from the Cathedral.

There is a superb collection of stained glass windows, including the Wissembourg “Tête de Christ” window, one of the oldest known stained-glass windows. Religious statuary, wood carvings, paintings and more are on show. This is one of the most beautiful collections of medieval art I’ve ever seen. It really is a must-see.

www.musees.strasbourg.eu/musee-de-l-oeuvre-notre-dame

Musée Alsacien

Discover the life and past of rural Alsace at the Musée Alsacien. Some rooms are faithful reproductions of rural interiors of homes and shops. And there are thousands of objects from furniture, ceramics and everyday artefacts from the 17th to the 19th century. It’s very charming and a great way to get to know more about the city.

www.musees.strasbourg.eu/musee-alsacien

Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art

If you’re a modern art fan the contemporary and modern art museum will make you very happy. Just the other side of the Vauban Dam in a huge glass building, currently covered in black and white street art, it is huge and fascinating. It mixes a number of mediums including a very famous Monet poppy painting in the landscape themed area, alongside very modern art. Wassily Kandinsky is heavily featured including a room created from one of his Cubist check creations.

This is a museum that presents art by theme. It juxtaposes modern alongside contemporary and modern could mean Monet or Sisley. It’s home to art that’s altogether more quirky and completely fascinating. I saw a giant plastic spider with a cats face which walks across the room! The Art café on the first floor has a great outdoor terrace. From here you’ll get breath-taking views over the city whilst you get your breath back from the exhibitions. Here you can take a break with tea, pastries or lunch.

Chateau Musée Vodou

Rather unusually, Strasbourg has a voodoo museum. It’s that sort of city, full of surprises. The museum in a 19^th century water tower, is home to the world’s largest private collection of West African voodoo artefacts. Exhibits cover ancestor worship, medicine, divination, witchcraft and more – it’s magic!

www.chateau-vodou.com/en/vodou-museum-strasbourg/

Find details of all museums on the Strasbourg Tourist Office website: www.otstrasbourg.fr/en/discover/monuments-museums-and-other-sites-to-visit/museums

More on Strasbourg

Where to eat out in Strasbourg – seriously delicious tips for visitors who like food!
Instagram-worthy Strasbourg – the prettiest scenes in this gorgeous city
What to see and do in Strasbourg

The post Top Museums in Strasbourg appeared first on The Good Life France.