Champagne-Ardenne Archives - The Good Life France https://thegoodlifefrance.com/category/regions-of-france/grand-est/champagne-ardenne/ Everything you ever wanted to know about france and more Thu, 22 Sep 2022 16:13:08 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://i0.wp.com/thegoodlifefrance.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/cropped-Flag.jpg?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Champagne-Ardenne Archives - The Good Life France https://thegoodlifefrance.com/category/regions-of-france/grand-est/champagne-ardenne/ 32 32 69664077 The best Champagne tours of Champagne https://thegoodlifefrance.com/the-best-champagne-tours-of-champagne/ Thu, 16 Jan 2020 07:33:57 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=79199 Nothing beats sipping delicious Champagne in Champagne. It is the drink of choice for celebrations around the world and it is only produced in one beautiful area of France. “Champagne is the only wine that leaves a woman beautiful after drinking it” claimed Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of Louis XV, a woman who was …

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View over Champagne vineyards near Reims Champagne, wooded barrels against green vines

Nothing beats sipping delicious Champagne in Champagne. It is the drink of choice for celebrations around the world and it is only produced in one beautiful area of France.

“Champagne is the only wine that leaves a woman beautiful after drinking it” claimed Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of Louis XV, a woman who was known for her intelligence as well as her beauty. Loved by Kings and Queens, favoured by Napoleon, adored by Marilyn Monroe – Champagne the drink has won a legion of fans for centuries.

Take a small group tour with tastings of world class Champagnes. Discover the history and culture of Champagne’s main cities. And explore the vineyards and magnificent scenery of the region with family run Ophorus Tours.

Champagne cities

Majestic buildings in Reims city, Champagne and statue of King Louis XV

Roam in Reims, the capital of the Champagne region. Visit the Gothic Cathedral and wonder at the Roman ruins. Take a tour where your English speaking expert tour guide will reveal the history of the city and its jewel, the UNESCO listed Gothic Cathedral where the Kings of France were crowned.

Reims Cathedral, it's towers reaching up to a blue sky

You’ll discover the major Champagne houses in Reims. And, you’ll visit one of the most legendary of them all. Plus you’ll enjoy a delicious tasting followed by a delectable lunch with more bubbles.

Visit a family run Champagne estate in the glorious countryside with your guide and driver. All you have to do is relax and enjoy the tasting. You will learn the secrets of how to make Champagne and see how it is matured in dark cellars across the region. Millions and millions of bottles fizzing away, the result of centuries of French savoire-faire.

Explore Epernay, aka the capital of Champagne the drink. Wander its graceful streets and ogle at the centuries-old mansions in the famous Avenue de Champagne. Discover its fascinating history and stop off at the world-famous Grande Maison De Champagne Moët & Chandon, where Napoleon often stayed.

Champagne vineyards and villages

Inside a dimly lit cellar, bottles of Champagne in shelves ready for turning as they mature

Visit the picturesque village of Hautvillers, the cradle of Champagne. It’s here that the monk Dom Perignon, who is said to have “invented” Champagne, claimed on sipping it: “come quickly, I am tasting the stars”.

And discover the Grand Crus villages in the mountains of Reims, surrounded by those precious vineyards.

With an expert guide, you’ll learn the fascinating history of the drink and the region. And, you won’t need to worry about enjoying the bubbles since all transportation will be provided.

Book a half day, full day or longer brilliant Champagne tour to really experience the effervescence at: ophorus.com

Tours start from Reims train station, less than an hour from Paris.

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What to do and see in Chaumont, Champagne https://thegoodlifefrance.com/what-to-do-and-see-in-chaumont-champagne/ Sun, 20 Jan 2019 10:55:21 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=73371 The city of Chaumont is on a plateau above the River Marne and is a great place to stop off if you’re travelling from Calais to the Alps. Boasting a population of over 23k, part of the Haute-Marne department, it sits on a railway line that links Paris and Basel, Switzerland, over an impressive viaduct that …

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3-storey viaduct lit up at night

The city of Chaumont is on a plateau above the River Marne and is a great place to stop off if you’re travelling from Calais to the Alps.

Boasting a population of over 23k, part of the Haute-Marne department, it sits on a railway line that links Paris and Basel, Switzerland, over an impressive viaduct that draws tourists from far afield. And, there’s plenty to do and see here…

Visit Chaumont’s impressive Viaduct

At 52 metres tall and 600 metres long, you can’t miss the striking stone viaduct which dates back over 160 years. This popular tourist attraction was built in the mid-1850s to link the capital Paris to the city Basel – on the River Rhine where the Swiss, French and German borders meet – and boasts 50 impressive arches, stacked three on top of each other up to 50 metres high.

Described as one of the most remarkable bridges built in the second half of the 19th Century in Europe, it’s not only a sight to behold in its own right, but it also offers a fantastic view of the picturesque Suize valley. There’s more on this top tourist attraction here.

Square Phillippe Lebon

Just a stone’s throw from the Hotel Les Remparts – you can park up in the street just outside the hotel – you’ll find yourself in the small but beautiful Square Phillippe Lebon. Featuring a stone statue of gas lighting inventor Phillippe Lebon, it rewards those who stop off to visit with a stunning view over the surrounding countryside, and it also boasts a children’s playground.

Basilique St Jean The Baptist

As you stroll around the oldest part of Chaumont be sure to take in this Gothic basilica with its two towers that peak over surrounding buildings. This Roman Catholic church, which is classified as an historical monument, dates back to the 13th Century. Featuring modern stained glass and several art works, just one of many highlights if you step inside the church is a “remarkable example” of a Jesse tree dating back to the 15th century. Made of limestone this Christian motif is over four metres high and it sits on a three-metre wide base.

Where to eat

Restaurant Des Remparts on Rue de Verdun, next to Square Phillippe Lebon, is a great place for both evening meals and breakfast. You can choose from one, two or three course meals in the evening, with starter and desert in buffet format. Everything was either fresh or cooked beautifully and the service is impeccable. There is also a delicious, freshly made or baked choice at breakfast.

Visit Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises

Close to Chaumont is Colombey-les-Deux-Eglises and La Boisserie, the former home of General de Gaulle, President of France. You can also visit the Charles de Gaulle Memorial Centre which is a fascinating presentation of the life and times of de Gaulle. It’s packed full of artefacts from the car in which he was travelling when an assassination attempt was made on his life to furniture and fashions of the mid 20th century.

Where to stay

A great place to stay in Chaumont is at Hotel Les Remparts, on Rue de Verdun via a beautiful wooden door. Comfy, peaceful rooms provide a very pleasant mid-way stop on the nine-hour journey from Calais to the Alps. The lovely hotel has the added bonus of having its own restaurant so there’s no need to worry about finding somewhere separate to eat nearby. You can book here

Find out more about Chaumont: tourism-chaumont-champagne.com

Justine Halifax is a multi award-winning writer and has worked as a journalist and feature writer for the Birmingham Mail, Birmingham Post and Sunday Mercury.

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What to see and do in Epernay Champagne https://thegoodlifefrance.com/what-to-see-and-do-in-epernay-champagne/ Fri, 28 Dec 2018 09:41:51 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=70568 Epernay is around 1.5 hours from Paris by train, and 30 minutes from Reims. With its UNESCO listed Avenue du Champagne and inclusion on the “100 most remarkable sites of taste in France” – you’re in for a treat if you visit. The railway line from Paris reached Epernay in 1849 and trade in Champagne …

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Epernay is around 1.5 hours from Paris by train, and 30 minutes from Reims. With its UNESCO listed Avenue du Champagne and inclusion on the “100 most remarkable sites of taste in France” – you’re in for a treat if you visit.

The railway line from Paris reached Epernay in 1849 and trade in Champagne boomed which led to the naming of the Avenue de Champagne. Previously known as rue Royale, and Fauborg du Commerce, it was renamed in 1925 and now receives almost half a million visitors each year

The train station is in the centre of Epernay so you don’t have to walk far to reach the sites. This includes the world-famous Avenue de Champagne. Here you can’t help but ogle at the famous names and beautiful buildings that line this long road. Underneath it are 110km of cellars filled with bottles maturing slowly, watched carefully by experts.

Avenue de Champagne

The first Champagne house opened on the avenue in 1729, it belonged to Nicolas Ruinart. Taking a cellar visit is practically the law in this effervescent little town. Few can resist the allure of Moët et Chandon who moved to the Avenue in 1743. They have a super tasting tour and the shop is magnificent, the perfect place for your Champagne souvenir.

Take a tour with www.greeters-en-champagne.com/en. It’s an initiative in which local people, passionate about the area where they live, share their local knowledge with visitors. It’s free of charge and you’ll get a real insider’s view of Epernay.

Champagne Tasting

In the summer months, pop into the tourist office at Epernay to discover the programme of “Esprits de Champagne” organised by the tourist office. For a really different taste experience, you coul take a flight in a hot air balloon over the Reims Mountains and the vineyards with Champagne on landing! Or go up, up and away in a tethered balloon, summer months only, for a 360 degree view of Epernay from 150m up in the air. Sipping Champagne from that height tastes rather special!

There are plenty of Champagne bars to fuel your bubble desires. But, one of the best I think, is C -Comme Champagne (8 Rue Gambetta 51200 Épernay). It’s a shop and tasting bar where the staff are incredibly knowledgeable and helpful. Delicious snacks are also on offer, the best of local products from cheese to chocolate. And the tastings vary from by the glass in the bar to a picnic tasting in the cellars. There are even gourmet dishes to have with your bubbles. The shop is terrific too, there is lots of information about the fizz and who produced it.

Visit nearby Hautvillers – the birthplace of Champagne

5km north of Epernay is the place where legend has it, the story of Champagne bubbles began – Hautvillers.

Dom Perignon was a French Benedictine monk who served at the Abbey of Hautvillers. He worked in the Abbey cellars for almost 50 years. His days were spent improving the methods for the maturation of wines, the blending of different grapes, corking the bottles and the pruning of vines to improve the grape quality. Apparently he actually spent much of his time trying to rid the wine of bubbles! He is though, the person we associate most with the invention of Champagne. The legend that he cried “Brothers, come quick, I am tasting the stars” when sipping the bubbles has stuck, in no small part thanks to brilliant French marketing.

There’s no train station in Hautvillers but you can hire a bike (including electric bike) from Epernay Tourist Office. The ride takes around 30 minutes: www.tourisme-hautvillers.com

More on Champagne

The history of the Avenue de Champagne
Les Riceys, off the beaten track in Champagne
Champagne, the French Elixir
Classic Champagne cocktails
Reims – what to see and do in the bubbly city

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Visit Ruinart Reims – the oldest Champagne House in the world https://thegoodlifefrance.com/visit-ruinart-reims-the-oldest-champagne-house-in-the-world/ Sat, 15 Dec 2018 11:01:15 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=72724 Mark Twain, the great American writer was spot on when he claimed: “too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right”. Ever since it was “discovered” in France in the 17th century, just about everyone has fallen under the spell of the effervescent wine. It can only be made in Champagne, …

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Mark Twain, the great American writer was spot on when he claimed: “too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right”.

Ever since it was “discovered” in France in the 17th century, just about everyone has fallen under the spell of the effervescent wine. It can only be made in Champagne, north east France to have the status of Champagne the drink. There are more than 100 Champagne houses and 19000 grape growers, of these only around 2000 make and sell Champagne. There are an astonishing 50,000 different Champagne labels, so, if you thought Champagne was Champagne – think again. Tastes and prices vary widely. Part of the fun of being a Champagne drinker is working out which one you like best.

Raise a glass to Ruinart

Ruinart (pronounced Reenart) was founded in 1729, and it was the first established Champagne house and is therefore the oldest in France. In fact the company started on 1 September 1729. We know this because Nicolas Ruinart, the 32 year old founder, wrote in his ledger book that day that he was starting a business devoted to “wine with bubbles”. The ledger book takes pride of place in the entrance to the house.

History of Ruinart

Nicolas Ruinart’s uncle was a monk, Dom Thierry Ruinart, born in Champagne but sent to an Abbey in Paris. Whilst there he learned of a new “wine with bubbles” that the young nobles enjoyed. At that stage it wasn’t known as Champagne. It’s entirely possible that Dom Ruinart knew Dom Perignon the “inventor” of Champagne. They lived at the same time, shared the same interests and in fact both are buried in nearby Hautvillers.

Dom Thierry told his brother about the new-fangled sparkling wine and his son, Nicolas, picked up the idea and ran with it, 20 years after his uncle died in 1709. The Ruinarts were textile merchants at that time and Nicolas owned some vineyards. He started out making Champagne for clients as gifts. But, the sparkling wine was a runaway success. Just 6 years after producing the first bottle, he gave up the textile business and concentrated on the Champagne.

Visit to Ruinart

A visit here reveals a fascinating slice of Champagne history. Around a mile from Reims city centre, Ruinart is established in the legendary crayères, the quarries where the Champagne is matured. Visit the cellars, the oldest and deepest in Reims. They date back to 1 AD when the Romans dug out the chalk to create the city walls and buildings. Ogle the bottles slumbering in the dark in perfect conditions. Strolll some of the 8km of caves, some of which have an almost Cathedral like feel to them. You’ll learn about the process of making Champagne. Find out how the bottles are turned by hand and see medieval heads in the walls! Discover what goes into making classic Ruinart – Chardonnay is king here.  And you’ll see some fabulous art. Ruinart is a patron of the arts and offers a residency to an artist each year. Amazingly Ruinart were the first company to advertise Champagne. They also came up with the idea for Champagne as a Grand Prix celebration drink.

I’m not going to ruin your visit to Ruinart by telling you everything you’ll see and do. It is a little more expensive than the other houses, but it does include a tasting and it is a fascinating couple of hours that you’ll spend in this historic Champagne house. Worth the money.

Ruinart Boutique

They don’t have a shop as such but a rather swanky boutique where you order your Champagne on a tablet and someone will get it from the cellar for you. Guide Francoise Sastre explained the different types of Ruinart, and they are not many, the company chose to keep to just 5 different types of Champagne – and make them perfect. The Ruinart Blanc de Blancs is one of the finest I’ve ever tasted and Ruinart “R” is one you can “drink from 9 am to 9 pm” is superb and “it goes with anything” says Francoise.

This is not cheap Champagne but when you know just how much work has gone into preparing it, you’ll really savour a glass of this very special “sparkling wine”.  You won’t find it in supermarkets, only in fine wine establishments – and there’s a reason for that. The bottles are clear glass, not the dark glass that’s normally used. So, stockists must be experienced enough to store the bottles properly so as not to spoil the taste. It really is exclusive, and it’s a Champagne that the French love.

So next time you’re in Reims, nip to Ruinart and discover this amazing Champagne for yourself.

Book tour through the Ruinart website

Discover more to do in Reims and Champagne

How to spend 48 hours in Reims, Champagne
Take the train from Paris to Reims and enjoy the Champagne lifestyle
Some of the best Champagne towns you can visit by train
Langres, Haute-Marne, the secret part of Champagne
Guide to Epernay France

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Some of the best Champagne towns you can visit by train https://thegoodlifefrance.com/some-of-the-best-champagne-towns-you-can-visit-by-train/ Thu, 11 Oct 2018 15:06:42 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=70564 Seeing the best of Champagne by train is a fun and easy journey. Reims, the capital of Champagne the region, is just 45 minutes by train from Paris. Epernay, known as the capital of Champagne the drink, takes around an hour and a quarter. The two great Champagne towns are linked by rail and it …

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Autumn leaves growing around a blue and white street sign for Rue Dom Perignon, Epernay, Champagne

Seeing the best of Champagne by train is a fun and easy journey. Reims, the capital of Champagne the region, is just 45 minutes by train from Paris. Epernay, known as the capital of Champagne the drink, takes around an hour and a quarter. The two great Champagne towns are linked by rail and it takes around half an hour to get from one to the other. Not only that, en route are several other famous and fabulous Champagne producing towns, all connected by rail. If you want to taste before you buy, taking the train is a great way to visit, stay safe and on the right side of the law.

Ligne des Bulles, the Bubbles Line

The TER (regional train) line between Epernay and Reims is called by some locals: Ligne des Bulles, the Line of the Bubbles. It makes stops at several villages in the woodlands and vineyards of the area, a great way to get to see some of the small Champagne towns and meet producers at their vineyards. Here are three of the best:

Rilly-la-Montagne

This charming village, one of the oldest in the area; here history and tradition are closely entwined. At the town hall pick up a copy of a walking guide of the town and vineyards. Don’t miss the 12th century church with its carved choir stall illustrating the stages of wine production. There are about 60 Champagne producers in the town and several offer cellar tours and tastings. Stop off for a special lunch at the splendid Chateau de Rilly, full on glamour amongst the vineyards.

Ay

The town’s motto is “the city that sparkles” and it’s a lively sort of place. It’s said that King Henri IV of France loved the wines from here and owned his own wine press in Ay. Apparently, it was kept in the half-timbered house behind St Brice’s Church. Ay was already well-known in the Gallo Roman period for the wines produced here. Around 40 producers are based in Ay indcluding Bolinger, and several offer cellar tours and tastings. Pop to the town hall to pick up a leaflet about the town (in English). There are several restaurants, mainly bistro style one of the most popular being the Rotisserie Henri IV named in honour of the town’s most famous fan.

Avenay-Val-d’Or

Just 7km from Epernay is sleepy and tranquil. There’s a 13th-16th century church and several Champagne houses to visit. From here it’s about a 20-minute walk to the tiny village of Mutigny from where you will get a wonderful view of the Montagne of Reims.

Hautvillers

Not on the Champagne line but a short cycle ride from Epernay where you can hire bikes at the tourist office. It’s the birthplace of champagne and well worth the detour!

Book a Champagne experience – tastings, workshops, sabrage, vineyard visits and more with www.champagne-booking.com

More about Champagne

Read more about Hautvillers
Read more about Epernay
Read more about Reims
The real history of Champagne

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How to spend 48 hours in Reims Champagne https://thegoodlifefrance.com/how-to-spend-48-hours-in-reims-champagne/ Wed, 10 Oct 2018 10:14:41 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=71389 Known as the Gateway to Champagne, just 45 minutes by train from Paris, Reims is renowned for its prestigious champagne houses, Gothic cathedral and Art Deco architecture. Little of the original Roman town remains except Porte Mars, an ancient gateway to the town and the cryptoportico – a semi-underground gallery dating from the 3rd century. …

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Place d'Erlon, meeting square that's popular with the locals in Reims

Known as the Gateway to Champagne, just 45 minutes by train from Paris, Reims is renowned for its prestigious champagne houses, Gothic cathedral and Art Deco architecture.

Little of the original Roman town remains except Porte Mars, an ancient gateway to the town and the cryptoportico – a semi-underground gallery dating from the 3rd century. The city was largely rebuilt after the First World War caused extensive damage as it was virtually on the front line.

Reims has an extraordinary place in history thanks to King Clovis I, who in 498AD converted to Christianity when he was baptised by the Bishop of Reims, the future Saint Remi, creating a link between the church and the monarchy in France for generations to come. In fact, 33 French monarchs were crowned here – giving the town the name the Coronation City.

Day 1 in Reims

The two absolutely must-dos in this town: Reims Cathedral and a Champagne house visit and tasting.

Top tip: Pick up a Reims City Pass from the tourist office. A 1, 2 or 3-day pass which gives access to more than ten museums plus free public transport in the city and discounts at many of the town shops and restaurants.

Reims Cathedral in spring, towering and gothicNotre Dame Cathedral is renowned as a gem of Gothic architecture, founded in 1211. The Smiling Angel statue has become the symbol of the city. Every evening in summer there is a stunning free ‘Son & Lumière’ (sound and light) show in front of the Cathedral. Inside the stained glass windows are sublime, including modern windows designed by Chagall.

It is one of three UNESCO World Heritage sites in Reims, along with the Palais de Tau, the former residence of the Archbishop, now the cathedral museum, which includes the Palatine Chapel. The Palais displays the coronation gown of Charles X, the last French king to be crowned here in 1825.

The monastery of the Abbey of Saint Remi is today a museum of the history of Reims with a rich collection. The Saint Remi Basilica next door houses the relics of its namesake. This is where the special ampoule containing the holy ointment for anointing new kings was kept.

Shop at the market

Boulingrin Market covered market was built in 1927 and has been renovated to its former glory. The market which is open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday is located in the town centre next to the Porte de Mars, a major ancient access point to the city, at the beginning of the Rue de Mars, where you can also find the charcuterie specialist Aux Gourmets des Halles and other gastronomic boutiques.

Lunch at

Au Piano des Chefs: Next to the Cathedral in the centre of town. It is a creative wine and cuisine experience offering English and French speaking cookery classes.

The Champagne Houses

The visits of the cellars of some of the Champagne Houses incorporate the famous ‘crayères’ – giant chalk pits excavated by the Romans to build the first city of Reims. These underground chambers were joined by connecting tunnels over the centuries, developing into an intricate underground network of over 200 km. Used as a shelter for both soldiers and civilians during times of siege, (an underground hospital and school were set up during the First World War), the cellars of Reims, dug deep into the chalk, provided ideal storage conditions for champagne, with a constant cool temperature and high humidity. The Champagne Houses set up their headquarters above the cellars, each one adapting the visit of their cellars to reflect the individual history and heritage of their brand, such as the contemporary art exhibitions at Champagne Pommery.

There are plenty of places to stop for a glass of bubbles in town but Pol Couronne, with its boutique and tasting bar in the shadow of the Cathedral is fabulous (11 Cours Jean-Baptiste Langlet; champagne-polcouronne.com)

Book a Champagne experience – tastings, workshops, sabrage, vineyard visits and more with www.champagne-booking.com

Champagne house must-sees:

Ruinart: www.ruinart.com this one is about a mile outside the centre of the city, it’s the oldest Champagne house in existence and their Champagne is elegant and memorable. You can take a great tour, it’s a little pricier than the rest but it’s well worth it.

Mumm: www.mumm.com the tour and tasting are superb and you’ll get a fascinating insight into the world of Champagne making.

Dinner at

Newly reopened, the revamped Brasserie Conti of the Grand Continental Hotel**** has become a trendy institution in the city after a recent refurbishment.

Day 2 in Reims

Take a City Tour – no matter the weather, this is a great way to see the city with commentary by audio-guide. Book at the tourist office in the centre of town, right next to the Cathedral.

Visit a museum – there’s plenty of choice in Reims:

Fort de la Pompelle

German military helmet collection at the Fort de la Pompelle Reims

This is an unusual museum housed in a fortress, built in the nineteenth century, which was very important in the First World War protecting the city of Reims. The impressive collection of memorabilia from the First World War includes an enormous collection of Imperial German helmets and headgear. Open all year.

Musée de la Réddition

It is a little-known fact that the surrender at the end of the Second World War was actually signed in secret in Reims on 7th May 1945 in the map room of the American Army headquarters.  This revered place has been preserved and is open to visitors all year round.

The Automobile Museum

Ancient cars at the Car Museum Reims

Houses over 200 vehicles dating from 1908 to the present day, which includes rare motorbikes and prestigious vintage cars.

Lunch at

Historic Café du Palais (14, Place Myron Herrick). With its sumptuous interior, great menu where classic Champenoise has a little bit of Italian influence, you’ll be happy to while away the hours here! It’s also great for an afternoon and early evening snack and glass of Champagne.

More bubbles!

Champagne and macarons - an irresistible combination

Of course you have to have more fizz – this is the capital of Champagne after all. The Boutique du Club Trésors de Champagne was created in 1971 to showcase the quality vintages of 27 artisan wine makers, promoting the exceptional character of the wines they produce.  If you don’t make it to a champagne house this Champagne bar is an ideal alternative to taste some top champagnes.

Try a local speciality: Le Biscuit Rose de Reims was created in the 17th century by a local baker who left his ‘little cakes’ in the oven to use up the heat, turning them to biscuits. Vanilla floavoured and coloured pink with natural carmine, the biscuits are very light and crunchy and are also used as an ingredient in desserts.

Shop for souvenirs: Reims Vinegar and Reims Mustard The vinegar is created from the yeast sediment disgorged from the champagne before corking which is then aged in oak barrels for a year.  The vinegar is mixed with brown mustard seed to create the Reims Mustard which is made with black grapes and is an ideal accompaniment to Reims Ham which is cooked in special stock and has a unique flavour.

Bake your day at: Waida et fils, a superb boulangerie/patisserie with a charming art deco tea room, service can be slow at peak busy times (5 Place Drouet d’Erlon).

Dinner at

Brasserie Excelsior. A fabulous way to round off your 48 hours in Reims with a quintessentially French and Champenoise menu (really great value) in a beautiful setting and a lovely summer terrace for when the sun shines.

Thanks to Gillian Green, Gillian Green PR for some great tips for visiting Reims.

Reims tourist office for lots more details: reims-tourism.com

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Take the train from Paris to Reims and enjoy the Champagne lifestyle! https://thegoodlifefrance.com/take-the-train-from-paris-to-reims-and-enjoy-the-champagne-lifestyle/ Thu, 16 Aug 2018 14:54:04 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=70566 There’s nothing quite like the pop of a Champagne bottle to make you feel festive and with Reims, the capital of Champagne so close to Paris, there’s no excuse not to go! Take the Train to Reims from Paris With Reims, the capital of Champagne, just 45 minutes from Paris by train it’s the perfect …

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There’s nothing quite like the pop of a Champagne bottle to make you feel festive and with Reims, the capital of Champagne so close to Paris, there’s no excuse not to go!

Take the Train to Reims from Paris

With Reims, the capital of Champagne, just 45 minutes from Paris by train it’s the perfect day trip location but even more so for a sparkling weekend break. From Reims you can travel around the Champagne countryside on the “Bubbles Line”. You really don’t need a car to get around and that means that you can also enjoy a glass or two without having to worry about being over the limit says Janine Marsh

Reims train station is in the centre of town making it easy to walk to all the sites and there are many. UNESCO heritage sites abound here, perhaps the most well-known is the iconic Cathedral of Notre Dame.

What to see in Reims

33 Kings were crowned in Reims from 816 to 1825 including Charles VII in 1429, accompanied by Joan of Arc. It comes as a shock to many visitors to discover that many of the sculptures featured on its façade are copies or casts. Damaged badly by bombing in World War I, the Cathedral was rebuilt. It says much about the integrity of the work carried out that this Cathedral is still considered one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the world. Statues of 63 kings, 3m high and weighing 6 tonnes each adorn the façade. It’s no less impressive inside where stained-glass windows dating to the 13th century vie for attention along-side the magnificent stained-glass windows designed by Marc Chagall.

Next door, visit the Palais du Tau, the former Bishops’ Palace, and residence of Kings whilst awaiting coronation, is now a museum dedicated to the Cathedral. The St Remi Basilica which was mostly built in the 12th century is named after the Bishop of Reims who baptised Clovis, the King of the Franks in 496.

Even older is the Roman legacy, the huge Port de Mars which stands majestically at the end of a busy road, it is quite simply astonishing.

A huge area of Champagne itself has UNESCO status, including Reims, granted in 2015 in recognition of its Paysages de Champagne.

Champagne tasting in Reims

You can’t go to Reims and not do a Champagne tasting – you’re spoiled for choice here. The city is built on top of miles of secret passages that contain millions of slumbering bottles of Champagne. Nicholas Ruinart started the trend for maturing Champagne in the chalky caves, the digging out of which was begun in the Gallo Roman period. There are several big Champagne makers including Mumm, which has a brilliant tour, Veuve Cliquot, Taittinger, Lanson and Drappier, who make the biggest bottles of Champagne known as a Melchizedekis – they hold 400 glasses of bubbles!

If you want to try Champagne from smaller producers and artisans head to the Tresors de Champagne Boutique (2, rue Olivier Métra), where you can take a tasting – with more than 160 different cuvées each week, you’re sure to find one you absolutely love.

When you’ve had your fill of history, take a break in one of the many restaurants and bars – one of the best reasons to visit.

Where to eat out in Reims

Locals love: Café du Palais is a 4th generation family run restaurant that has been pleasing the punters since 1930. Dishes on the menu pair perfectly with bubbles. 3 course menu €39.00 includes a glass of Champagne (14, Place Myron Herrick).

Wine and dine: The Brasserie Excelsior near the train station has oodles of old school glamour, think chandeliers and banquettes and a style reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties. 2 course lunch menu from €28.50 (96 place Drouet d’Erlon).

Find out more about Reims: ReimsTourism.com

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How to book the perfect Champagne tasting experience in Champagne https://thegoodlifefrance.com/how-to-book-the-perfect-champagne-tasting-experience-in-champagne/ Fri, 02 Feb 2018 13:39:05 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=66885 Discover the pleasures of the Champagne region and enjoy an effervescent experience Champagne tasting without all the tedious, time consuming searching online. www.champagne-booking.com has done all the hard work for you. Simply choose the type of tour or experience you want – from a Champagne tasting to grape picking or Sabrage – the technique of …

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Discover the pleasures of the Champagne region and enjoy an effervescent experience Champagne tasting without all the tedious, time consuming searching online.

www.champagne-booking.com has done all the hard work for you. Simply choose the type of tour or experience you want – from a Champagne tasting to grape picking or Sabrage – the technique of opening a bottle with a sword, who wouldn’t want to try that?! Whether you want a wedding reception or a Champagne Masterclass – with Champagne-Booking, everything fizzy is covered.

The best and easiest way to book a Champagne tasting in Champagne

Anyone who would like to enjoy a Champagne tasting can book easily and quickly through this platform. It’s used by both the biggest Champagne domaines such as the legendary Mumm to small independent producers. It means you can see very simply where to go for the perfect Champagne experience for you. It’s not expensive. There are free tours you can book from the website and guided tours and tasting with prices starting at just 5 Euros for a tasting of three different and very delicious Champagnes

Everything Champagne and sparkling in one place

 Every Champagne House is unique. Through Champagne-Booking you can discover not just Champagne tasting opportunities but some of the fabulous activities of the area. Fancy a picnic in a vineyard? Check. We can tell you where you can experience it in style.

Perhaps a vineyard tour by Land Rover or motorbike with picnic food, and of course a glass of fizz, is what you fancy.

If you want to try your hand at Sabrage, or take a Masterclass where you learn more about production – we can help.

Or maybe you’d like to indulge in a gastronomic or Michelin star meal on the estate of a Champagne domaine.

Vineyard Segway tours, grape picking during the harvest season and more – when it comes to Champagne, there are loads of experiences on offer to make your visit truly special.

Champagne-Booking also provides bespoke and group tours in the Champagne region.

Many people visit the larger Champagne Houses and think that Champagne is expensive and that a bottle of Champagne should only be opened on special occasions. Well, let’s dispel that myth… There are several types of Champagne and a Champagne for every budget – from barbecues to birthdays. And the price varies. Sometimes it’s not easy to discover the many small true hidden gems of Champagne production. Located in stunning villages, with interesting histories they love to share and of course, excellent Champagnes – with a seriously good bottle often costing less than €15 Euros.

Champagne is more than a drink, it’s an emotion and with the excellent savoir faire of Champagne-Booking you’ll have a visit and memories to cherish forever.

Find out more at www.champagne-booking.com

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History and legends from the Haute Marne Champagne https://thegoodlifefrance.com/history-legends-haute-marne-champagne/ Thu, 14 Dec 2017 07:31:42 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=63773 The Haute Marne region is a wonderfully rich region. Rolling green hills, fields of wheat and lazy cows, and orchards of cherry. Oh, and Champagne. It’s the stuff poetry is made of with 40% of the Haute Marne either river or forest, and just 9 inhabitants per square km. With this luxurious landscape comes wild …

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The Haute Marne region is a wonderfully rich region. Rolling green hills, fields of wheat and lazy cows, and orchards of cherry. Oh, and Champagne. It’s the stuff poetry is made of with 40% of the Haute Marne either river or forest, and just 9 inhabitants per square km.

With this luxurious landscape comes wild boar, deer, diverse wildlife and of course, an abundance of cottage industries to explore and enjoy.  If you love local flavours and folklore, this is the place to visit.

A working landscape in Baissey

In the Rue du Paradis, in the tiny Hamlet of Baissey, not far from Langres, you’ll find an original and working watermill. People have been working the water here since the Romans and this was once one of the pivotal businesses of the community.

During the revolution, the mill was considered so important that the miller was charged an extra pig by way of taxation and tales abound of tunnels up to the castle to smuggle in contraband.

It’s strange to think that not long ago, wolves were considered a danger here and the last one was killed as recently as 1946.  Grand celebrations for the whole village were held if a wolf was captured and in fact, wolves are an inherent part of the mill’s heritage. So much so, that the tale of one JoJo and his wolf have become a bit of a Baissey legend.

The legend of Baissey

Apparently, not long after World War I, all the villagers of Baissey gathered at the mill for one of their main celebrations. JoJo the violinist was there and he entertained the revellers late into the night with his music and dance. But as the party finally broke up, JoJo, rather the worse for wine, decided to make his way home to the neighbouring village by taking a path through a snowy forest.

Stumbling along through the darkness, the unfortunate JoJo fell into one of the hunter’s traps and found himself face to face with a wolf no less. With nothing else to defend himself, JoJo took up his bow and played. And he carried on playing until dawn broke and the hunter finally arrived to check his traps. And the wolf? All the time that JoJo played, the wolf never laid a paw on old JoJo.

It may have been exaggerated in the telling but for me, who lives in an old watermill on the other side of France in a little woodland area known as Paradis and with a neighbour called …JoJo (yes really) who’s not impartial to wine (I don’t know if he plays the violin but I will find out), it certainly hit a nerve!

The last miller

Nowadays, photos of the last miller and his family hang on the wall as a rather sad testament. Henri Noirot (son and grandson of millers before) was born and died at the mill at Baissey. After more than 60 years at the helm, when he died in 1931, the mill died with him and quickly fell into disrepair.

Enjoy the last crumbs

Now, with a tired old dog keeping watch in the shade of a cluster of Holly Hocks, you can climb up the old stone steps and into the workings of a traditional mill which has been lovingly brought back to life.

As the wheels creak and the stones grind, original orders from the locals, written on little postcards scatter the desk in front of the sales office. A gun and a set of scales complete the office equipment!

The mill has a rhythm and a musicality to it. It must have been hot, dusty and noisy back in the day. It must have been a wonder in technology but still back breaking work. And today, you can enjoy a freshly baked, local biscuit made from mill ground flour and a little glimpse of what made the heart of this community tick!

A sticky choice

If there’s one thing that goes with bread, it has to be jam. And in the tiny hamlet of Anrosey, about 40 minutes from Baissey, you’ll find the formidable Madame Collin and her impressive selection of jams and jellies.

Started back in the 1980s as a farming diversification, Madame Collin brings new meaning to the concept of jam. With flavours ranging from red current and dandelion, marigold, courgette, rose and potato (yes indeed), nasturtiums and even milk jam, it seems that if it grows in these parts, Madame Collin can make jam from it.

You can dip into and sample some of her finest jams, spread them on her home-made pancakes and take home a beautifully potted and decorated selection. All surrounded by her collection of over 500 colourful coffee pots.

She’s open for business on Wednesdays between 10 am and 5pm or you can arrange a tasting by appointment and even visit the farm.

You can visit the mill by arrangements or at set times. Contact paulhoudart@orange.fr

You can contact Madame Collin on 00 33 (0)3 25 88 85 97 or via the tourist office.

For more information about the region visit www.tourisme-hautemarne.com

Lucy Pitts is a freelance writer and deputy editor of The Good Life France

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Langres Haute-Marne | The secret part of Champagne https://thegoodlifefrance.com/langres-haute-marne-the-secret-part-of-champagne/ Thu, 16 Nov 2017 14:21:11 +0000 https://thegoodlifefrance.com/?p=63312   Haute-Marne, the secret part of Champagne The Haute-Marne department of Champagne is not as famous as its sister department the Marne. There you’ll discover the legendary towns of  Reims and Epernay, famous for their Champagne domains and much more. Haute-Marne though, is a beautiful part of the region and there’s lots to discover here …

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Street view of Langres Champagne

Haute-Marne, the secret part of Champagne

The Haute-Marne department of Champagne is not as famous as its sister department the Marne. There you’ll discover the legendary towns of  Reims and Epernay, famous for their Champagne domains and much more. Haute-Marne though, is a beautiful part of the region and there’s lots to discover here and fall in love with. Not least of the reasons to fall head over heels for the area is the fact that it’s like one huge gorgeous garden. Close to the border with Burgundy it makes for a great stopping off point but is a destination in its own right.

Langres

Renaissance house in Langres Champagne France

Take Langres, it’s one of the oldest towns in France and there are plenty of traces of its illustrious past and those who lived here. The ramparts that have encircled this walled town are the longest in Europe. Take a wander round them (just under 3km) and you’ll discover seven towers with look out platforms as well as six gates into the town. One of the entrances dates back to the Roman occupation. There’s also a“new gate” which was built in the 16th century. It shows the townsfolk had a sense of humour since it features a carving of two naked men with their hands tied behind their backs: a warning message to unwelcome visitors 500 years ago!

Enjoy a promenade around these ramparts and you’ll get fabulous views over the Marne Valley. You can watch the impressive free funicular carrying visitors between the top of the town and the bottom. You can also go into some of the towers where you’ll find exhibitions. In one of them is further evidence that the townsfolk really did like to have a laugh. The builders sculpted a man bending over with his trousers down, a medieval mooner – meant to make the soldiers smile.

The Diderot Connection

Statue of Diderot the French philosopher in Langres, Champagne where he was born

Langres was home to Denis Diderot. The famous French philosopher is honoured with plenty of references in his home town – a statue, plaques, a square, college and in one of the towers on the ramparts, an exhibition of his achievements.

This town is comfortable with its ancient buildings, the honey coloured stone mellowed by centuries of sunlight. Shutters of pale green and grey compliment the buildings, colourful bunting across the main street gives a festive air. What makes this place stand out for me is the authenticity of its streets and buildings, there’s even a “brulerie” – an ancient French word for a café, which came before the arrival of the brasserie.

Visit to Langres

This is a really charming town that simply invites you to relax. And of course you can’t go here without enjoying a meal in one of the many restaurants and ordering delicious Langres cheese!

You can pick up a leaflet from the tourist office for a self-guided walk or book a walk with a guide.

www.tourisme-langres.comwww.tourisme-en-champagne.co.uk

More on Langres and about
L’Abbaye d’Auberive in the Haute Marne Champagne
Remarkable Gardens of Cohons Langres Haute-Marne
Chateau de Pailly Langres Haute-Marne

Lucy Pitts is a freelance writer and deputy editor of The Good Life France

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