The department of Aisne in Picardy is the ancient cradle of France. Its capital Laon was once also the capital of France, and it is the only place in the world where Champagne is produced – outside of Champagne. Discover a land brimming with historic cities, glorious countryside, picturesque villages and monumental cultural sites…

Laon a historic city

The great French writer Victor Hugo once said, “everything is beautiful in Laon.” Almost 200 years after his visit, he would recognise its Cathedral and winding streets of ancient buildings – a whopping 84 listed monuments – and surely feel the same way.

This ancient city with its ramparts and stone gateways was the capital of France from the 8^th to 10^th centuries when Paris was still a village. Perched on a hill at 180m high, the site is perfect for defence, and Queen Berthe au Grand Pied (the unlikely named Bertha of the Big Feet), mother of the great Charlemagne, made Laon her seat of government. It was only when Hugues Capet was made King in 987, that Paris became the capital. Laon though, remained an important religious city and a centre of learning.

The 800 year old cathedral of Notre Dame, a Gothic masterpiece, dominates the upper town. Flanked by two magnificent turreted towers, from which large stone oxen peer. They are a nod to the sturdy beasts who dragged the stones to build it and the local legend that when an exhausted oxen fell to the ground, a white ox was sent by God to help carry the stones. The façade is intricately carved and inside there are beautiful 13^th century stained glass windows. The sound of monks chanting creates a spiritual atmosphere.

What to see in Laon

The streets around the Cathedral are lined with old buildings, all encompassed within the medieval ramparts from which there are wonderful views over the town below and the countryside. On clear days you can see as far as the plain of neighbouring Champagne.

Look closely at some of the buildings and you’ll notice fossils and shells embedded in the walls. They’re left over from the time when the area was under a tropical sea – some 65 million years ago. And many of the buildings are listed historic monuments including the tourist office which is located in a building dating to 1167 and the underground passages of the Citadel. There is a legend that at the 16th century Cour du Change, formerly known as the Hotellerie du Dauphin in rue Sérurier, King Louis XIII stayed on a stormy night in 1638. He and his wife Anne of Austria had prayed for children but to no avail. However that night, Louis XIV was conceived. Just don’t check the dates too carefully, you might see that there are 13 months between the night Louis XIII stayed and Louis XIV’s birth!

Laon is also where Abelard and Heloise met – the Romeo and Juliet of France. It was a tragic love story, the student, Heloise falling for the teacher, marrying in secret and having a baby against the wishes of her uncle/guardian. The lovers were torn apart and she was sent to an abbey whilst he was castrated on the orders of Heloise’ uncle. You’ll spot their likeness in the fabulous street art that illuminates the town.

You can book guided tours at the town hall to discover Laon’s many secrets and charms. Tourisme-paysdelaon.com

Familistère of Guise – a most unusual Museum

Guise was once an important border town ruled by the powerful Dukes of Guise. Now it is a rather sleepy place with pretty streets, a ruined castle and superbly restored fortified church. But its most famous attraction is the monumental Familistère – a ‘social palace.’

It was created by Jean-Baptiste André Godin, founder of the famous Godin stoves company.  He was born in 1817 in Aisne, the son of a locksmith and left school at the age of 11. At 17 he moved to Paris, taught himself architecture. In 1840 he returned to Aisne and began manufacturing a cast-iron heating-stove which he had designed. To this day they are known as Godins in France and an astonishing number of them have survived, still working to this day – I have one myself!

Godin made a fortune from his stoves and at its height his factory in Guise employed almost a thousand workers. In 1856, moved by the plight of workers living conditions, Godin started to build the Familistère, a place where his employees and their families could live. It also had a nursery, school, laundrette, shops, 600-seat theatre and swimming pool. The monumental residential building was based on the Palace of Versailles with apartments for up to 900 people. It was essentially a small town, and all within easy walking distance of the huge factory. He called it a social palace.

The social palace

Around 75% of the workforce lived there with their families. He paid workers well, around 150 francs per month and their rent was just 8-12 francs. He set a 10 hour working day when the norm at the time was 13-15 hours. And gave his workers Sunday off. He set up a workers union who decided the rules in the factory via a series of committees.

It seemed like utopia… But when he died in 1888 having lost his only son just 15 days before, the running of the factory fell to the committees and without his influence it all fell apart as infighting and disagreement took over.

The German army occupied the site from 1914 to November 1918. They turned the theatre into a jail, the central palace became military hospital and they destroyed some of the buildings.

The Utopia Project began in 2002 to restore the palace and remaining buildings. It is a triumph. You can tour an apartment, have a guided tour, visit the theatre and pool and discover this extraordinary tale. There’s a cafe on site and a great shop where you can buy Godin products. Familistere.com

Saint-Quentin – Art Deco dazzler

Born in France, Art Deco began in 1908 – a merging of art of various influences: antiquity, cubism, the arts of Africa and the Far East.

Saint-Quentin has been through a lot. Founded by the Romans, it was a major medieval trading centre. It’s been invaded, conquered, besieged and finally all but destroyed during World War I – the Great War as the French call it. Rebuilt in the 1920s it has many Art Deco buildings including the extraordinary railway station where trains ran from as early as 1850. It became a key site in the 1940s when Saint-Quentin once more come under foreign control and the city became the headquarters of the 2nd German army.

Visit now and you’ll find a hugely cultural city with 9 museums and extraordinary buildings.

The station buffet, a listed historical monument, is pure Art Deco with walls and furniture covered in soft silver and glistening gold mosaics with an accent of bright red, featuring flowers and Normandy ocean liner window design. From the station it’s a short walk across the canal to the town. Built in 1801, it was the first canal north of Paris and inaugurated by Napoleon in recognition of its importance to France.

In the city, the Art Deco vibe is everywhere. There are some 3000 buildings that feature the Art Deco style of which 300 are classified as Historic Monuments. This includes the tourist office where you can book an audio guide and route map.

Museum of Beaux-Arts Saint-Quentin

Whatever you do don’t miss the Musée des Beaux-Arts Antoine Lécuyer which in my opinion is the city’s star. There is a superb collection of pastels by Maurice Quentin de la Tour, known as the ‘King of the Pastels’, an artist who ‘looked into the souls’ of his subjects and then captured their likeness with pastels in a way never seen before or since. Sadly not all the pastels were out when I visited but enough for me to be able to be completely amazed. Destination-saintquentin.fr

4 Must-sees in Aisne

Champagne vineyards in Picardy!

Chateau-Thierry in Aisne is the only place in the world outside of champagne where champagne is made. There are cellars dating to the 12th century and 400 vineyards producing Champagne. Visit Champagne Pannier for a tour and tasting and to stock up on their superb fizz. champagnepannier.com

Jardin Viel Maison

There are 16 sections to this magnificent private garden and it looks different in each of the four seasons. In the distance you can hear the town church bells, spot woodpeckers and wild birds and wander at will to enjoy the superb planting. Book in advance: jardins-vielsmaisons.net

Chemin des Dames

During World War I, the Chemin des Dames was a frontline position where violent fighting took place. There an underground quarry called ‘The Caverne du Dragon’ which was turned into army barracks. Today you can visit the galleries and see the chapel, first aid station, command post and No Man’s Land which movingly testify to the lives of the soldiers – both French and German – who fought and lived, sometimes even side by side, within the confines of the cavern and the countryside around. chemindesdames.fr

Chateau de Conde

Once home to the Princes of Conde and still lived in, this glorious castle was transformed into the Renaissance gem in the 16^th century for Louis de Bourbon. Sumptuously decorated with gorgeous gardens, it’s well worth a visit. chateaudeconde.com

Find out more on the Aisne tourism website: jaimelaisne.com

The post What to see and do in Aisne, Picardy appeared first on The Good Life France.

There are no real winners when two nations fall out, but today we live in an age when wars can rumble on for years and involve countless civilian casualties. So it’s a surreal experience to visit the Agincourt Museum next to a field where an international conflict – legendary for hundreds of years – was all wrapped up before teatime.

The Battle of Agincourt kicked off in heavy rain late in the morning of October 25th 1415, St Crispin’s Day. And by mid-afternoon, the cream of French nobility had been cut down in the mud by the firepower of English archers.

The English army

The English army, now believed to be around 8,500 men, were marching to Calais to return home by boat after a campaign in Normandy. They were led by King Henry V, and faced a French army of around 12,000 men. Henry’s army of English soldiers and largely from Wales archers, were already exhausted and suffering from dysentery. Some of them removed their trousers and fought half naked. Many of them kissed the earth of this corner of Pas de Calais in northern France. They believed they would be buried in it later that day. Henry V heard Mass, not just once, but three times.

The French army

The French were led by the Constable of France Charles d’Albret and Marshal Jean II le Meingre (Boucicaut). The battle ‘barely lasted a few hours’ says Ludovic Hiltenbrand, manager of the Centre Azincourt 1415. But it was a decisive victory for the English and became the stuff of legend. The French, wearing heavy armour and bogged down in mud were cut down as armour-piercing arrows with a range of 250 yards were unleashed from the innovative longbows of their enemy. Among the lost was Gallois de Fougières, a Marshall of France. He was effectively the first recorded gendarme to have died in the line of duty. The uniformed official we know today, the ‘Gendarme’, is a derivative of ‘gens d’armes’, or people with arms (weapons), hence the expression ‘to take up arms.’

Look for Agincourt on the map and you won’t find it. The village is actually called Azincourt, nestled in the lush countryside of The Seven Valleys. The change of spelling is down to a mispronunciation by an English knight. When asked by Henry V for the name of the nearby fortress he pronounced it Agincourt.

You can still see the field where the face off took place. Most of it is now farmland and all of it bordered by quiet country roads – a 4km circuit on foot or by car.

In the heart of the village, you’ll find the excellent Centre Azincourt 1415 museum.

Centre Azincourt 1415 – The Agincourt Museum

The totally revamped Agincourt museum (2021) aims to tell the true story of the great 15^th century battle and provides new detail about the Anglo-French conflict dubbed The Hundred Years War.

The new museum was designed by British Professor and author Anne Curry Emeritus Professor of Medieval History at the University of Southampton and French historian and author Christophe Gillot, Director of the Centre. They pored over material pertaining to the Battle of Agincourt that has survived in the National archives in the UK as well as chronicles and material in France. Their work has led to a new understanding of the battle.

The legend of Agincourt

For many centuries much of our ‘knowledge’ of Agincourt has come from William Shakespeare. Who can listen and not be moved by the stirring speeches the English king gives in Shakespeare’s Henry V (1599):

‘Once more unto the breach, dear friends, once more;
And
‘We few, we happy few, we band of brothers’

They are words which have inspired time and again, representing “Englishness” and triumph in the face of adversity. Some 500 years later Laurence Olivier’s famous film of the play, released in 1944, was dedicated to the commandos and airborne troops who made D-Day possible. A great piece of propaganda.

But not everything we think we know is true. And the Centre Azincourt1415 sets out to dispel the myths and examine the real and extraordinary story.

The Agincourt museum gives a lot of information in an easy and digestible way – in French and in English. Try games like Sovereigns of the Hundred Years’ War. Discover what soldiers ate, and words from the Middle Ages, and details of daily life, the clothes of the period, the illnesses, the treating of wounds.

The section devoted to armour shows how different ranks were protected. Of course, the richer you were, the better your equipment. A video demonstrates how a knight put on his armour (not an easy task). And you get a chance to feel the weight of a helmet, handle a medieval sword and feel the force needed to shoot a longbow. There are interactive screens to play with, videos and clever touches – listen to the Hundred Years’ War explained in 100 seconds.

The Centre Azincourt 1415 puts on events every year – medieval banquets, Night at the Museum, exhibitions and more. (See the website below for details).

What to see around and about

But Azincourt isn’t the only reason to stop over in this delightful area of gentle, rolling farmland dotted with small villages and farms. Five small rivers flow south to join two larger rivers – the Canche and Authie, hence the name Seven Valleys. Drop into the Tourist Office in historic Hesdin for information on outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling and fishing.

Follow the Canche through the Seven Valleys towards its estuary at Le Touquet and you pass through Montreuil-sur-Mer. Definitely worth a stopover in anyone’s book for its rampart walks, historic citadel and cobbled streets. It’s here that Victor Hugo set part of Les Misérables.

Montreuil has also become a hot destination for foodies, thanks to an indecent number of good restaurants for a town of just 2,500 people. Enjoy Alexandre Gauthier’s Michelin-starred fare at La Grenouillère beneath the ramparts. Or a traditional flammekueche at Le Caveau.

Montreuil has plenty of interesting independent shops, the sort you rarely see on British high streets nowadays. Cheese fans should pack a cool bag to stock up from Fromagerie Caseus on Place Général de Gaulle. A large market is held on the square on Saturday mornings. On the opposite corner, Aux Douceurs d’Antan stocks a range of local products from chocolates and biscuits to soup, jam and beer. Children will love Dragibonbons, a sweet shop on rue d’Hérambault that makes its own themed ‘cakes’ from sweets. Whilst Oliviers near the Citadel is an Aladdin’s cave of wines and spirits.

By Gillian Thornton and Janine Marsh

DETAILS

Centre Azincourt 1415, 24 rue Charles VI, 62310 Azincourt, www.azincourt1415.fr
Open all year round: 10 am – 5:30 pm except Tuesdays (10am – 4:30pm); July/August: 10 am – 6:30 pm

The post Agincourt | The legends and a historic museum appeared first on The Good Life France.

Why head to the south of France when the north has so much to offer? I get it. It’s what almost everyone does. “It’s wall to wall sunshine in the south” they say. “There are beaches. The food is fabulous. The map says follow this route for a whole day.”

But take it from me, stop off in the north of France and you’ll find out why that habit of heading south needs to change. Discover a part of France that’s truly authentic, where the food is sensational, the countryside is idyllic and the seaside is glorious. There are historic towns and cities, battlefield and remembrance sites, world-class museums, gorgeous little villages, spectacular countryside with great cycling and hiking routes, water sports and some activities that are unique. And if that sounds tempting – then I know just the place for you… Saint-Omer is an absolute jewel of the north of France.

Discover Saint-Omer

Saint-Omer in the Pas de Calais department is just 30 minutes from Calais by car and 2.5 hours from Paris by car or train. It is a town that has an extraordinary history spanning millennia. The Romans set up shop here. Thomas Becket AKA Saint Thomas of Canterbury, took refuge there. Three of America’s Founding Fathers studied at the Jesuit Chapel. Saint-Omer is the symbolic home of the British Royal Air Force and it’s where Douglas Bader, hero of the RAF in WWII was shot down, escaped from his captors and was sheltered in the town.

And surrounding Saint-Omer is some of the most bucolic countryside in France, with shades of the Dordogne.

Visit the town

Start your visit at Place du Maréchal Foch in the centre of the town. It’s lined with gourmet food shops and cafés that are perfect for sitting outside and watching the life of the town go on. Behind the theatre which dominates this ancient square, is Guy Delalleau’s delicious boulangerie/patisserie – his cakes are like small works of art and taste as good as they look – it’s not to be missed. Around the squares are cobbled streets with 300 year old merchants houses and majestic manors, a place that lures artists to capture the topsy-turvy Flemish style. The River Aa runs through the town and makes for a pretty walk  and if you happen to be there in the last week in July, you’ll be able to join in the fun of the annual nautical procession, a carnival of floats on water!

Park your car (there are several free car parks) and pick up a map from the tourist office. It’s in a tranquil green area behind the Cathedral and where you can sit on Paris style park chairs at the café and listen to those mellow bells ring. And if you go on Saturday morning, you’ll find one of the best markets in the region. Saint-Omer is a place to wander,  and discover it’s many secrets…

Notre Dame

The former Cathedral of Notre Dame is a stunning, flamboyant  13^th century Gothic church and inside is even more impressive. It houses the tomb of Saint Omer, medieval funeral slabs, a several centuries old statue of Christ and a collection of paintings including The Descent from The Cross by Rubens. There are several ornate marble side chapels inside one of which hangs an RAF regimental flag, a reminder that the aerodrome at Longuenesse on the outskirts of Saint-Omer is the spiritual home of the RAF, the successor to the Royal Flying Corps who had their HQ here during WWI. The Cathedral also houses a mind-boggling astronomical clock dating to 1588, one of the oldest in France. There’s also a vast 300 year-old 115-pipe organ, a listed historic monument, which if you are lucky enough to hear played, will leave you with a lasting memory.

Palais de Cathédrale

Around the great Cathedral are beautiful mansion houses including the Palais de la Cathédrale at 12 Rue Henri Dupuis. Owner Jean-Luc Montois has spent the last few years restoring it to look as it did two hundred years ago when it was lived in by a local merchant. Although Jean-Luc lives there, he has opened it to the public and to enter is like stepping back in time. It is an extraordinary, exquisite home that is filled with wonderful treasures that he has collected for many decades. Book a tour via Saint-Omer tourist office

A sumptuous Theatre

The locals affectionally call the exquisite domed building which dominates the Place du Marechal Foch – Le Moulin à café, the coffee grinder. Completed in 1840 on the site of the former 14^th century Alderman’s Hall, it became the Town Hall complete with an opulent Italian-style theatre which gave the local bigwigs bragging rights. The theatre closed in 1973 and for 45 years was hidden from sight. In 2018, after restoration, it reopened to the public, complete with the original stage machinery. In its day it attracted some of the most performers of the time including Edith Piaf and Luis Mariano. Under an ornate ceiling, the circular opera-style theatre has three balconies and private boxes. Book tickets via labacarolle.org

Ancient Library

From the outside, the municipal library in Saint-Omer does little to tempt. It’s a modern building of the sort found in every town in every country. But – go inside, head to the first floor and discover the wood-panelled former Jesuit Chapel library filled with thousands of ancient books some of which date to the 7^th century. Their collection includes a first volume Gutenberg Bible. Less than 50 of the original 180 copies thought to be printed have survived. Not long ago, an eagle-eyed librarian dusting the shelves spotted a Shakespeare first Folio. Those two books alone are worth some $50million.

The Jesuit Chapel

Next door to the library, the Jesuit Chapel was built from 1615 to 1640 by Jean du Blocq (1583-1656), a Jesuit architect who also designed the Cathedral of Luxembourg. He was inspired by Gesù, the Jesuit church in Rome, combined with Gothic style. It’s here that Founding Fathers Charles Carroll, signer of the Declaration of Independence, Daniel Carroll, one of the Constitution’s two authors, and John Carroll who became America’s first Catholic Bishop and founder of Georgetown University, spent many years studying. It’s now used as a performance and cultural venue.

Abbey of Saint-Bertin

By the neo-classical train station of Saint-Omer, one of the most beautiful in France and a listed historic monument, you’ll find the remains of Saint Bertin’s Abbey. It was destroyed during the French Revolution. But it was here that in the 7th century, a Swiss monk called Omer arrived. He’d been sent to become Bishop of nearby Thérouanne. He founded an abbey in what was known then as Sitiu. It became the Abbey of Saint Bertin, named after one of Omer’s helpers. The town that grew up around it became Saint-Omer. The abbey was expanded over the years and was updated to the Gothic style now evident in the ruins.

It was here in 1165 that Thomas Beckett who became a Saint, sought refuge from Henry II. The abbey became so important that a prince’s quarters was built for visiting Kings and Queens. Francis 1 came here on his way to the Field of the Cloth of Gold Summit with Henry VIII in nearby Guînes. Historians believe that Anne Boleyn may also have been there in the retinue of Queen Claude, wife of King France, though no one knows if she met Henry VIII at this time. Coincidentially, it was from Saint-Omer that Henry VIII later sought a swordsman to lop off poor Anne’s head.

Loved by a King

Louis XIV also came here in 1677 when Saint-Omer, which had been under Spanish rule, was taken back by the French. He visited the floating islands of the marshes that surround the town, famous even then. In fact he was so impressed he returned three years later with the entire royal family and the court. He stayed at the Governor’s Hotel at the spot where the Sandelin Museum now is. The people of Saint-Omer marked his first visit with an inscription on the grand doors to the Cathedral. You can still see it, proudly displayed! Louis rewarded the town by having his engineer Vauban reinforce the rampart walls which now encircle a beautiful park.

Musée Sandelin

The museum contains works by Flemish, Dutch and French masters, tapestries. There’s also a wonderful collection of ceramics. Plus a fascinating clay pipe collection which pays homage to the town’s past as an important producer of pipes and pottery.

After you’ve enjoyed the many attractions of the town, nip to the countryside on its doorstep and discover the Clairmarais. The UNESCO listed biosphere marshland iswhere you can take a boat ride and discover the wildlife, unusual residences and much, much more…

The Audomarois Marshlands

Hire a boat or take a guided ride in traditional wooden bacoves. Float along tree-lined canals buzzing with bird life, where migrating herons stop off and the postman delivers post by boat. It’s the only area in France with such a service to homes which sit on floating islands in the marshes. This 15 square mile network of canals and farmland is unique in France and a UNESCO-listed Biosphere Reserve. It was started by monks in 638. They diverted the River Aa, divided the land into plots and farmed the land. Today a few dozen market gardeners continue to work the plots. It is the cauliflower capital of France with some 5million grown each year.

Visit the Maison du Marais, less than 10 minutes on foot from the centre of Saint-Omer. It’s  dedicated to the history of the marshes, features exhibits, an educational garden, and boat tours of the marshes. lamaisondumarais.com/en

Marshland activities

Meet the last of the Saint-Omer boat makers: In a wooden shed on the edge of the marsh, a team of enthusiasts make up the last Audomarois shipyard in existence. Take a fascinating guided tour to discover how this family business continues to hand-make the traditional wooden boats of the marshes. They use 500 year-old plans and wood that is up to 100 years old.

You can also hire a boat here: lesfaiseursdebateaux.fr

Explore in style: Hire a 2CV, VW camper van or vintage electric bikes for a day, half-day or weekend. les-belles-echappees.com

Beer: While you’re at their office, nip to the brewery on the grounds of an extraordinary Abbey. It was founded by Saint Bernard de Clairvaux in the 12^th century. But the once monumental Monastery of Clairmairais was yet another victim of the French Revolution and now just ruins remain. There was a brewery on the grounds until 1790 and it’s here that Laurent Delafosse now brews his fabulous beers. w

True beer lovers shouldn’t miss a visit to the Brasserie Goudale in nearby Arques. It’s a branch of the Brasserie de Saint-Omer company, a hugely successful brewery started by the legendary André Pecque AKA the ‘King of Beer’. Some of his best known brews include La Goudale (Old English for good ale), Saint-Omer and Le Panaché. Brasserie-goudale.com

Rando Rail: Pedal a 4-person kart on an old railway line through leafy woods and across fields on a 10km ride. www.rando-rail.com

Close by

La Coupole is an unmissable visit just 7km from Saint-Omer. Beneath a 72 metres wide, five-and-a-half metres thick, 55,000 tonne concrete dome, Hitler had a secret V2 rocket base built. A strike to the entrance put paid to its aim to churn out bomb-carrying rockets. Today it is a fascinating and haunting historical and scientific museum. You get goosebumps when you walk into the chilly and chilling 20 metre high tunnels where the V2 rockets were prepared for launch.

This former bunker is also the home of the most advanced planetarium in the world. With a unique 15m wide screen with 10K resolution, the seats are interactive with audience response technology and the 3D films (D-Day Normandy, 1944; Explore and Voyager which make you feel as if you’re in space with astronauts) are nothing short of utterly incredible. I promise you I gasped out loud and ducked when rocks from Mars came hurtling towards my head! lacouple-france.com

Vintage train ride: in nearby Arques, hop on a steam train or vintage train and explore the gorgeous countryside in style on the Aa Valley tourist railway. cftva62.com

Day at the seaside: Saint-Omer is around one hour from the glorious beaches of the Opal Coast including Wimereux with its Belle Epoque villas, Audresselles an authentic little fishing village and historic Boulogne-sur-Mer.

Where to eat

Traditional: La Baguernette on the edge of the marshes, and next to the embarkation point for a boat trip. Their speciality is suckling pig cooked in milk for eight hours in a wood-fired oven. They also serve local favourite beer tart, utterly irresistible. labaguernette.fr/en

Upmarket: La Bacôve, opened by Top Chef winner Camille Delcroix. Refined, innovative and seriously scrumptious food in a beautiful setting. restaurant-bacove.com

Tourist office: tourisme-saintomer.com

The post Guide to Saint-Omer – quintessential northern France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Less than 30 minutes drive from Calais port lies Wimereux, a Belle Epoque seaside town on the Opal Coast. It is though best reached by taking the ‘route 66’ of northern France which may take longer as you’re unlikely to be able to resist stopping off. You’ll drive on uncrowded roads, past meadows and pastures where curious cows lift their heads. You’ll pass through authentic fishing villages where you can buy the freshest of just caught fish from the front gardens of fishermen and their families. You can stop off to discover memorials and museums. The D940 takes you up and down hills until you drop into Wimereux, just before you reach Boulogne-sur-Mer. Discover what to see and do in Wimereux – it’s not big, but it is beautiful.

Belle Epoque fantasy

The Opal coast has long lured tourists, celebrities, royalty and jetsetters. President de Gaulle holidayed in Wissant just 20km from Wimereux. Charles Dickens loved this area saying “if only it were but 300 miles further off… how the English would rave about it.” A little further round the coast, Le Touquet Paris-Plage was once the jetset capital of Europe, home to the biggest hotel the world had ever seen in the early 20th century. Impressed by the town’s glamour, Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royale based on Le Touquet’s casino, and Sean Connery signed his first Bond contract there some times later.

Wimereux is rather more sedate than Le Touquet, but doesn’t lack for glamour. Its Belle Epoque villas in the Anglo-Norman style, are whimsical but impressive. Decorative facades are painted in all the colours of the rainbow and sprinkled throughout the streets which lead to the long sandy beach.

What to see and do in Wimereux

Napoleon I was responsible for Wimereux’s development. He commissioned the foundation of a town and a port for his Grand Army, intending to conquer England, just across the English Channel and clearly visible on clear days from the Opal Coast.

The supervised beach is superb, vast and sandy with a rocky slipway for boats where children fish for shrimp. But it’s not a seasonal-only seaside town, it’s residential so with few exceptions, most places are open year round. The promenade of Wimereux is a wonderful place to well… promenade!

There are sports activities, sailing, and horse riding, plus a great golf course on top of the cliffs. The town has a varied and cultural programme including a summer festival dedicated to mussels which breed in proliferation along this coast line. There is a weekly market which triples in size in the summer months.

The town remains resolutely old-style French. There are no big chain stores or coffee shops. There are boutiques and quirky stores, cafés and bars, bread and cake shops. Along the sea front there are larger restaurants. In a prime spot overlooking the sea you’ll find the Art Deco style Hotel Atlantic. It has a laid back style which belies its Michelin-star status. Expect the freshest fish and gourmet dishes from the first floor starred restaurant. On the found floor is a non-starred bistro.

Canadian John McCrae is buried in Wimereux where he died in 1918. The author of the haunting poem “In Flanders Field” is honoured on 11 November each year when children in local schools light candles in his memory and read his poem out loud.

Wimereux is a relaxing and an ideal get-away-from-it-all seaside town, with a lot of style and a great base to explore the wider area.

More on the Opal Coast area

Nausicaa, Boulogne-sur-Mer, one of the Europe’s largest and best aquariums

Guide to Boulogne-sur-Mer 

Le Touquet Paris-Plage

Fabulous French seaside towns on the Opal Coast

The post What to see and do in Wimereux, northern France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Years ago, when Boulogne-sur-Mer was open to ferries from the UK, the town was a popular day trip. It was often the first French port of call (scuse the pun) for school kids. Its boulangeries inspired a lifelong love of French cakes and bread for thousands of British children subjected to ready-sliced flavourless bread in plastic bags and sticky buns, which whilst tasty, simply can’t compare with a jewel like French strawberry tarte.

Coach loads of pensioners were disgorged in the car park of Auchan hypermarket and then let loose in the town to cram into smelly cheese shops and wander the market. Those with grand ambitions to drive south in search of the sun, disembarked from the ferry and stopped off in the town for a spot of shopping.

However that ease of access somehow made Boulogne-sur-Mer less valued than some French towns. Despite its historic centre, cobbled streets and ancient buildings. Its marvellous market, wonderful shops, delicious restaurants, great bars and cafés. Long sandy beaches where you can pluck mussels for your tea and roam the cliff tops full of poppies, climb Napoleon’s column, explore ancient forts, museums and cultural sites. And Nauiscaa, France’s National Sea Centre, and the biggest aquarium in Europe.

When the ferry route from Boulogne to the UK stopped. So did the tourists.

The town suffered. Shops were no longer full of Brits ooh’ing and ah’ing over Maroilles, the local stinky cheese. The queue at the chateau museum on a rainy day had gone. The restaurants were no longer full to bursting with happy British punters tucking into the local favourite – moules frites.

But time has passed. Things have changed.

Find real France

Those who want to lessen their carbon footprint but still feed their French fix are discovering that Boulogne is a perfect day trip or weekend stopover. It’s still easy to get to. From Calais it’s just 25 minutes down the autoroute A16 (a toll-free part).

Boulogne is a snapshot town of quintessential France. And those who don’t have time or the inclination to drive hundreds of miles south, but who love French food and wine and want to stock up, crave French culture and French cakes – are discovering that this coastal city has it all.

Medieval centre – check. Castle – check. Gorgeous countryside and beaches – check. Fabulous boulangeries and patisseries – check. Loads to do – check.

And restaurants that you dream of returning to because they’re so delicious – check.

Which brings me to La Matelote, a Michelin Star restaurant that’s been shining a light on French gastronomy for more than 40 years.

La Matelote

In the March 3, 1888 issue of the New York Times a journalist wrote of “a galaxy of Gallic femmes a barbe”, ladies with beards, and of their popularity in France. In fact, so popular was the look that some women took to wearing fake beards and whiskers. And, in Boulogne-sur-Mer in the far north of France, one of the most famous of bearded ladies was Clémence Lestienne. Born Clemence Clarisse in 1834, she was known as much for the sweet treats she sold at markets in northern France as she was known for her looks. By the time she was 16 it was said that no one could compete with her gingerbread.

More than 100 years later, her great, great, great grandson Tony Lestienne is equally famous for his Michelin starred kitchen and hotel, La Matelote, which he runs with son Stellio. It’s just a stone’s throw from the market where Clémence once plied her trade.

La Matelote means the “fisherman’s wife” and the restaurant excels in its fish dishes. Chef Lestienne opened the restaurant in 1979 and won his star in 1982 and he’s held it ever since. Its plush but cosy intimate interior, outstanding menu of fresh fish and mouth-watering desserts at an outstanding price (lunchtime 2-course menu at €30/2021) has made it an institution in the north of France for foodies. With fishing boats unloading their daily catch virtually at the restaurant’s door, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a fresher selection of fruits de mer anywhere in the region.

“In a way” Chef Lestienne says “losing the ferry port allowed us to become more French again.”

And in a way, La Matelote represents the updated Boulogne-sur-Mer – understated, unpretentious, honouring its past, comfortable in its own skin.

lamatelote.com

See Chef Lestienne’s gingerbread loaf recipe created in honour of his great great grandmother

Guide to Boulogne-sur-Mer

The post Authentic France | Boulogne-sur-Mer appeared first on The Good Life France.

Amiens, the capital city of Picardy in northern France, is one for your bucket list. It has an age-old history and an incredible UNESCO listed Gothic Cathedral. There is also a remarkable “Green Venice” of ancient canals which criss cross the city, an extraordinary network of watery arteries dotted with hundreds of floating gardens. This is a city that has everything from outstanding nature to museums, culture, fabulous restaurants and a thriving cafe culture.

Water market

At the foot of Amiens Cathedral, the weekly Saturday morning market  takes place along the pretty Quai Belu in the old district of St Leu. With its higgledy piggledy colourful houses and multiple bars and restaurants, there is a festive atmosphere. The market on the water as it’s known, is where the market gardeners of Amiens ancient floating gardens known as hortillonnages sell their produce. It has been this way for centuries. Almost everything here comes from the hortillonnages or around the Somme area – from flowers and vegetables to wild herbs, cheese, honey, charcuterie and even beer.

Every third Saturday in June, the market gardeners arrive by traditional flat bottomed boat to sell their goods at the “Marche sur l’Eau” (water market). It’s a very colourful and merry event. The market traders dress in medieval costume in this homage to the days of old when market trade was conducted from boats. It’s a delicious day out and lots of fun.

Read more about the hortillonnages 

Art with a heart

Each year a unique Art & Garden festival takes place in the hortillonnages. You’ll discover an outdoor art gallery which spills into the water and on islands and riverbanks. From Spring to autumn some 50 artworks are installed on the islands and in the water. Some of them are monumental, all of them are extraordinary. The only way to see them all is by electric boat and you can take a self-guided tour. Follow the circuit, all the islands featured in the festival have pontoons where you can tie up your boat and then wander freely.

Entry is not at the same place as the normal guided boat tours of the hortillonnages. Instead make your way to the Port à Fumier, Camon district where you can to rent an electric boat for this fabulous excursion. Expect to spend around two and a half hours seeing all 50 artworks. There are parking spaces available and a welcome desk.

Read more about the Art and Garden Festivals

The biggest Cathedral in France

The first stone of Amiens Cathedral was laid in the year 1220. It is a masterpiece of Gothic art. At 145metres long and 70 metres wide at the transept – it is truly monumental and utterly divine. In the summer and December, the Cathedral is lit up with an astounding, free sound and light show.

Read more about the Cathedral and sound and light show

Jules Verne’s house

You mustn’t miss a visit to the home of one of France’s great writers. Jules Verne has inspired generations for more than 100 years with his tales of adventure, science and daring do. He wrote many of his stories right here in Amiens where he lived for 18 years. His 19^th century mansion has been restored to look just as it did in the late 1800s.

The rooms are filled with the reference books, geographical surveys and scientific reports which inspired his fantastic stories of journeys to the centre of the earth, the moon, under the sea and of course, around the world in 80 days. His study looks as if he’s just popped out. Wood panelled walls have the patina of history embedded in them. And there’s a fabulous collection of books, posters and even models – including a flying machine Verne imagined before aircraft were invented. It’s a fascinating visit with an audio guide.

amiens.fr/Maison-de-Jules-Verne

Island life

I stayed at a B&B in a cabin called Ch’Canard, on one of the floating gardens. It really is a little corner of paradise. Accessible by a tiny bridge over a ribbon of water, as soon as I closed the gate, it was like being on a remote island. You feel far away from the buzz of normal daily life.

In my beautiful 120 year old, tastefully decorated cabin for two I felt cossetted and cocooned, the star of my own Robinson Crusoe story. In the gorgeous gardens I crossed little wooden footbridges to explore dozens of islands all around me. Lilies floated on the calm canals. Roses and willows dipped down to the water’s edge. And the air was filled with the song of frogs and birds. I slept like a baby and can honestly say, it’s one of the most unusual, memorable and wonderful B&B’s I’ve ever stayed in. Details: Ch’Canard, Rivery

Where to eat out

There are plenty of cafés, bistros and fine restaurants in the city…

Locals love: Le Quai restaurant is hugely popular with the locals. In its prime position in Quai Belu overlooking the canal, with the Cathedral in the background, it’s great for coffee, a glass of wine or a cocktail, and even better for lunch or dinner. The staff are friendly. The menu is terrific with an emphasis on fresh regional products, classic French brasserie dishes, delicious salads and excellent vegetarian options. restaurant-lequai.fr

Riverside lunch: Overlooking the river Somme, at the entrance to the hortillonnages, Au Fil de l’Eau restaurant is lovely inside. But head outside on a sunny day. Seated on a terrace that makes you feel as if you’re in a treehouse, or in a flower filled garden courtyard, you’ll feel like you’ve escaped to the country. The menu is typically French with fresh and seasonal products. Local classics such as Ficelle Picarde, a savoury pancake topped with a creamy sauce are utterly delicious. Find them on Facebook

Wine and dine: Brasserie Jules is an institution in the city and a family favourite for Sunday lunch. Paris brasserie style with gleaming brass and plush red banquettes, Jules Verne (in a photo) seems to look on approvingly while artworks depicting scenes from his tales decorate the walls. The seafood platters here are legendary. Piled high with the freshest of shellfish, and the most succulent oysters. brasserie-jules.fr

Practical information

From Paris, Amiens is a little over an hour by train, and from Calais by car it’s around an hour and a half.

The tourist office is next to the Cathedral: amiens-tourisme.com

The post Amiens in Picardy makes for a fascinating visit appeared first on The Good Life France.

The first stone of Amiens Cathedral was laid in the year 1220. It is a monumental medieval masterpiece of Gothic art, 145 metres long and 70 metres wide at the transept.

Though there is plenty to see and do in Picardy’s historic capital, the number one visit is the Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage monument. It is the biggest cathedral in France and its soaring majesty can only really be appreciated in person.

A little over an hour and a half’s drive from Calais, the bustling and dynamic town has buckets of charm and plenty to see and do after you’ve explored the must-see Cathedral.

History of Amiens Cathedral

More than 800 years ago, builders toiled to create an incredible structure. They had no machinery. The enormous stones which fuelled its walls were dragged miles to the building site by man and beast. The creation of the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Amiens was an almost miraculous undertaking. Even more so when you consider it took jut 50 years to complete. The famous 19th century essayist John Ruskin venerated its beauty in his book The Bible of Amiens. It is quite simply breathtaking and to this day, a popular destination for pilgrims.

There are vaulted doorways, statues of kings, apostles and saints. 126 pillars support the soaring vaulted roof. The 16^th century wood carved choir stalls are magnificent, stained glass windows cast soft light on the ancient walls and floor. There are gargoyles galore, turrets and towers and listening to the majestic bells gives your goose bumps.

You can climb to the top, 307 narrow steps for stupendous views over the town. It’s well worth the effort though probably not for those with vertigo or claustrophobia.

Look out for the weeping angel, a wonderful statue which forms part of a 17th century mausoleum behind the High Altar. It was featured on a popular postcard sent by soldiers in the Somme during WWI.

Amiens Cathedral Sound and Light show

In summer and December, you’ll see Amiens Cathedral in a different light as the façade is lit up, an ingenious fete of engineering in itself. At night the exterior of the cathedral is smothered in a technicolour light performance in a show that makes audiences gasp.

The Chroma immersive night-time light show at the UNESCO listed Gothic Cathedral of Amiens, the biggest in France, is exquisite.

This free 50 minute show runs throughout the summer, as well as in December during the Christmas market, and is an absolute must-see. State of the art projection technology creates a truly magical experience under a night sky. As dusk falls, take your place in the cobbled Cathedral square and prepare to be amazed by a whirlwind of sound and light which bring the magnificently encrusted façade and sculptures to life. Get there at least 15 minutes before to be sure of a good spot for the best views.

Discover more of Amiens

Enjoy the colourful old district of Saint-Leu, perfect for relaxing at a café along the quayside of the River Somme which runs through the town, before discovering its masterful gems. Sitting here, watching the world go by, as the cathedral bells chime, is one of life’s true pleasures.

Another must-see is the authentically restored home of French writer and visionary, Jules Verne. He was inspired to write “Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea” whilst living here.

Explore the ancient floating gardens known as Hortillonages. In the shadow of the great Cathedral, this watery labyrinth has been cultivated since Roman times. Now maintained by market gardeners and locals, to this day they apply the same know-how of bygone days to make use of natural resources to water the land. You can explore this lush latticework of wetlands in a flat bottomed boat from April to October. And, if you ‘d like to taste the delicious produce, head to the Saint-Leu district on Saturdays to buy direct at the water market. Read more about the Hortillonages

Practical information

A train station in the centre of Amiens is within walking distance of the Cathedral.

There’s plenty of parking available in the town.

The Tourist Office is located next to the Cathedral in Place Notre Dame: visit-amiens.com

The post Amiens – the biggest Cathedral in France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Vieux Lille, the old town of Lille, is a place of fanciful Flemish facades. Where bars, bistros, boutiques and shops line the cobbled streets which wind their way labyrinth-like around the central Place du Général de Gaulle, known as the grand’Place.

Outdoor cafés abound in the ancient city centre, art of all kinds adorns the streets and you could visit a different museum in and around Lille every day for two weeks and still not see them all.

The former capital of culture is lively, vivacious and at the same time cultured and urbane. Lille has undergone a metamorphosis from a once industrial hub through a rather run down stage to emerge as a top city break destination and one of the most fascinating cities in Europe…

Lille – A feast for all the senses

Here’s where to indulge in a feast for the senses. Here are some of the best cultural sites and restaurants that are close by – feed your soul, and your stomach!

Culture: Palais des Beaux Arts

The Palais des Beaux Arts lives up to its name, it really is a grand palace and one of the largest museums in France. It has the second biggest collection of fine arts outside of Paris with exhibits from antiquity to contemporary, including all the greats from Rubens, Goya and Monet to Van Gogh, Picasso and Chagall. Head to the basement to discover a unique collection of ancient relief maps, fourteen 17th century exact replica miniature models of towns such as Ypres in Belgium (it was used as a blueprint for rebuilding Ypres after WWII) and Lille. They were once used by Louis XIV and his famous martial engineer Vauban to plan military tactics. There are regular, world class temporary exhibitions, and innovative touch screens (including gigapixel) help visitors to explore the artworks.

Eat: Au Moulin d’Or

Au Moulin d’Or is very close by, in the centre of Old Lille in a converted lingerie store. A listed monument, this restaurant featured in Dany Boon’s “Bienvenue Chez les Ch’tis”, France’s biggest grossing film of all time. It’s been renovated to a fabulous standard. Glittering chandeliers and a gorgeous central staircase, plus it regularly showcases local artists. Upstairs or downstairs, there’s a great atmosphere and a classic brasserie menu – delicious. 31-33 Place du Théâtre

Culture: Musée de l’Hospice de la Comtesse

The Museum of the Hospice de la Comtesse is steeped in history. It was founded in 1236 by Jeanne, Countess of Flanders to care for the poor and sick. Look out for the wonderful painting in the baroque chapel of Jeanne and her sister Marguerite giving money to the hospice’s nuns. The oldest part of the building dates to the 1400’s. It includes magnificently furnished rooms depicting Flemish life from the 15th to the 17th centuries. My favourites were an enchanting 17th century kitchen with gorgeous blue and white Delft-like tiles and a linen room with a perfectly preserved 17th century press. There’s a fascinating collection of paintings and antiques and regular exhibitions dedicated to the history of Lille. It’s a charming museum with an authentic atmosphere – a must-see.

Eat: Barbue d’Anvers

A short walk away, tucked away down an alley behind a pretty courtyard in a beautiful 16th century Flemish building, lies a local legend. Here they serve regional specialities such as rich and robust carbonnade flamande – a beef stew made with beer and brown sugar. And the unpronounceable potjevleesch, a dish of three cold meats (traditionally rabbit, chicken and veal) in aspic. Plus waterzooi, a type of chicken soup. The dining room is charming and vintage, with candles, books and knick-knacks galore. The locals adore this quirky restaurant with a warm ambiance. 1 bis Rue St Etienne 59800 Lille; lebarbuedanvers.fr

Culture: Gare Saint Sauveur

One of the things I love about Lille is the way abandoned but spectacular buildings are converted into cultural venues. Gare Saint Sauveur, a former freight station built in 1861, is now an inspirational space where regular events, art exhibitions and performances are hosted. It houses a cinema, bar and restaurant, gardens and a summer pop up bar. The huge warehouses are perfect for showcasing art. I loved how the railway tracks were still in situ, a reminder of the past fixed in the present. It’s also one of the main Lille3000 venues, the legendary tri-annual, 9-month long art festival which takes place in the streets and public buildings of Lille city and surrounding districts.

Eat: Bistrot de Saint So

Bistrot de Saint So is part of the Gare Saint-Sauveur complex and is a great way to mix art and food. When you’ve finished feasting on the art in the former station, head to the very chic restaurant and enjoy some seriously good dishes. This place is super popular with the locals for lunch (Wednesday – Sunday) so make sure you book in advance on their Facebook page. Enjoy dining on the fabulous large terrace watched over by a giant baby with a tail, or in the chic interior. I’m not sure the food makes your “hair sparkle” as they claim (with a big smile) but with fantastically tasty salads and a seasonal menu, I think they might just be right! It’s also open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights for a trendy night of music with DJs. There are also live performances. And seriously funky cocktails. facebook.com/bistrotdestso

Culture: Vielle Bourse

Head to la Vielle Bourse, the former  stock exchange, built in 1623. The courtyard hosts a second-hand book market (Tues-Sun, afternoons) on stalls under a vaulted walkway, alongside walls lined with fabulous carved friezes and sculptures. If you’re there on a Sunday night in the summer, join in the tango dancing under the stars.

Eat: L’Atelier des Chefs

Cook your own lunch or dinner with a chef tutor. At L’Atelier des Chefs Lille, you’ll improve your skills as you create a classic dish from scratch in just 30 minutes. You then get to enjoy eating your masterpiece at this fun cookery school. Great for individuals, couples and friends. Lunch time cooking course €17 Euros; gourmet dinner course lesson (one hour) where you’ll make a main course and dessert €38. Booking in advance is essential.

Culture: Tri Postal

Located in the former postal sorting office, it’s neither a museum or art centre but a place of art and life say the staff. Temporary exhibitions, performances and workshops are held in this dynamic and exciting cultural venue.

Eat: Coke

Coke restaurant in the ex-offices of the old Mining Company of Lens, hence the name. It’s a majestic building designed by architect Louis-Marie Cordonnier. Upstairs is an elegant, chandeliered dining room. Down-stairs is modern and arty and a retractable glass roof makes it great for sunny days. Bold, playful and clever food is on the menu from a talented team working in a glass-fronted kitchen. It’s also a great venue for an aperitif with a swanky cocktail bar and music on Friday nights.

Culture: La Piscine & Street art Roubaix

A short tram or metro ride from Lille, La Piscine, Roubaix’s art-deco swimming pool turned museum with a world-class collection, is one of the most popular museums in France. Read more about it here.

Roubaix has street art superstar status with an annual urban art festival (#XU), fabulous murals and two amazing studios dedicated to urban culture. Atelier RemyCo has 15 artists in residence including some well-known names (Mr. Voul and Freaks the Fab). Meanwhile Atelier Jouret hosts 40 artists: painters, sculptors, fashion designers and more. On the first Sunday of each month, you can visit the workshops, meet the artists and buy something unique from these hotshots of urban art. Read more about Roubaix and it’s extraordinary artists.

Eat: Meert at La Piscine

Meert is famous for its jewel-like pastries and the most moreish waffles ever made. They’ve been making sweet things since 1761 and their famous shop in Lille is like stepping back in time. They also have a beautiful art deco tearoom and restaurant with a gorgeous terrace garden (perfect for sunny day lunches) at La Piscine museum in Roubaix. The menu reflects the world class exhibitions  and really adds a little je ne sais quoi to your visit. The chef works with curators to design unique menus. There are exhibition-theme influenced dishes (and there’s also a seasonal, classic French menu). Leave room for one of their famous sweet waffles. You’ll be in good company, they were created for Belgian King Leopold 1!

Culture: MUBA Eugène Leroy

In the district of Tourcoing on the outskirts of Lille, the Museum of Beaux Arts has an excellent and substantial permanent collection from the 17th-20th century.

Eat: Le Paradoxe

Le Paradoxe is almost next to the museum. It’s a seriously funky restaurant located in the former Hospice which dates back to the 13th century. 3 Rue d’Havre, Tourcoing.

Find out more things to do on the Lille Tourist Office website and at UKFrancefr

The post Lille – the best cultural sites and restaurants appeared first on The Good Life France.

The far north of France, known as Hauts de France comprising the departments Picardy, Pas-de-Calais and Nord is the perfect road trip destination. A land of castles, seaside resorts, forests and lakes. There are ancient towns and cities, gorgeous countryside and picturesque villages and even Champagne vineyards! If you’re after a road trip that takes you to the heart of authentic France.  Where you’ll enjoy delicious food, meet friendly folk and discover a historic land that’s full of surprises. Then hit the road and explore this unexpected and extraordinary region…

Unspoiled, uncrowded, rural tourism at it’s best.

Road Trip Pas de Calais, northern France

Our journey began on P&O Ferries from Dover to Calais on an early morning sailing. Turning left out of the port we headed for the D940 Opal Coast route, which I call the Route 66 of the north of France. It passes through a stream of small fishing towns, seaside resorts and some of the most beautiful scenery in France.

There are miles and miles of unspoiled and endless sandy beaches. There are huge dunes and pine forests; dramatic clifftop walks offer dizzying views across the Channel to the White Cliffs of Dover – clearly visible on a cloudless day. Some parts of the coast remind me of the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland. Massive boulders seem to spill out of the sea and up to the road. Fishermen sit silent and patient along the water’s edge with rods and nets. Out to sea you can see traditional wooden fishing boats bobbing on the calm water.

Secluded Bays and picnic dreams

The sky was blue, the English Channel was the colour of the Mediterranean Sea, a soft sort of turquoise. The air was scented with apples from orchards lining the country roads as we drifted off the main coastal route and into the beautiful countryside to hunt down a patisserie. Nothing says France more than a baguette with a chunk of cheese followed by a jewel like cake and a glass of chilled wine. We sat on a blanket overlooking the English Channel, rabbits hopping around us, birds swooping above. A moment of pure pleasure.

We found secret, secluded bays where seals frolicked. There are monuments and museums, and the remains of the Atlantic Wall built as protection against allied invasion during World War II.

Stop en route to discover secrets and surprises

It doesn’t take more than 45 minutes from Calais to Boulogne-sur-Mer. But, it’s far better to spend the entire day on this section of the road. Stop to enjoy a home-cooked lunch in a friendly, welcoming café and buy fish fresh from the fishermen who sell direct from their front rooms and garages in villages like Audresselles. Wander on the beach, admire the ancient fort at Ambleteuse (above) and the Belle Epoque villas at Wimereux.

This is a part of France that’s hardly known outside of the region despite being captured on canvas by J M Turner who loved the ”opal” quality of light, and Charles Dickens singing the praises of the area and moving his family there.

Boulogne-sur-Mer

Boulogne-sur-Mer deserves a day of discovery. Head to the old town, so pretty it looks like a film set. Don’t miss the incredible decorated crypt of the Basillica Notre-Dame, the rue du Lille, lined with quirky boutiques and restaurants.

The 13th century Chateau Museum includes an Egyptian collection donated by renowned Egyptologist François Auguste Ferdinand Mariette, born in the town and the founder of the Cairo Museum of Egyptology. Nausicaa, the largest sea aquarium in Europe and heaps more will definitely fill a day right up…

From Boulogne, the D940 runs on through Neufchatel-Hardelot with its neo-Shakespearian Theatre and Castle with a cultural centre dedicated to Entente-Cordiale and glorious Hardelot beach. And on through charming Etaples, once a fishing port, neighbour to the swanky jet set seaside resort of Le Touquet-Paris-Plage, and several lovely seaside towns before crossing the border into Picardy…

Road Trip Picardy, Northern France

Marquenterre nature reserve

Close to the border at Saint-Quentin-en-Tourmont, we followed the signs for Parc Marquenterre. I’m not a twitcher, but I love animals and this nature reserve on the Bay of the Somme has a reputation for being really special.

A dusty track ended in a huge car park where a surprisingly smart and large restaurant and bar tempted us in. Here in what feels like the middle of nowhere, they serve delicious dishes with heirloom vegetables, the freshest local fish and superb desserts, fitting fuel for explorers. 200 hectares of land covered in marshes, peppered with lakes and ponds, dunes and reed beds are an absolute magnet for birds of all types. From a hide, I spied on storks and herons. Birds tweeted above and around us. The air is fresh and unpolluted, you feel as if you have the whole area to yourself. Marquenterre is mesmerising, memorable and magical.

Saint-Valery-sur-Somme, steam trains and cobbled streets

From here it’s a short ride to the town of Saint-Valery-sur-Somme. This ancient and extremely photogenic little town on the Somme Estuary has absolutely oodles of charm. It’s easy to spend an entire day here.

Stroll the cobbled streets. Wander along the harbour and the long esplanade to ogle the mansion houses. And discover the colourful sailors district. You’ll know exactly what lured the artist Degas and writers Victor Hugo and Jules Verne to holiday here. Long before them, Joan of Arc was held captive here. The dungeon where she is said to have been imprisoned is still there. It’s a tiny stone tower and you can’t help but think how the poor girl must have felt cooped up in her claustrophobic prison.

William the Conqueror was here too, stopping off to collect soldiers before making history and conquering England in 1066. Standing on the ramparts looking out to sea in the medieval town I wondered if he too had stood there. Wondering, dreaming, daring to hope that his ambitious plans to quell his dastardly enemy across the water might come true. All that thinking makes you hungry. Luckily this little town is teeming with cafés, bistros and restaurants.

The stream train is an irresistible lure. It takes you, on authentic wooden seats, round the Bay of the Somme, classified as one of the most beautiful bays in the world. We spotted wild pigs, deer and all manner of birds en route. You can take a boat ride out on the bay where the largest colony of seals in France live. Join a walking or bike tour (you can rent bikes in the town), or simply sit back and enjoy the ambiance. Watching the sun set over the bay, is one of those unforgettably beautiful moments in life…

Gorgeous Gerberoy

Take in the stunning medieval village of Gerberoy. Officially classified as a Plus Beaux Village, it has oodles of charm. Read about Gerberoy here: What to see and do in Gerberoy

Amiens Gothic Cathedral and astonishing floating gardens

The D940 runs all the way to Le Tréport in Normandy where the road then becomes the D925. It then runs around the coast through Dieppe before reverting to its original number to reach Le Havre. But stay in the Hauts de France region and head to the city of Amiens where you’ll discover Les Hortillonnages, one of the best kept secrets of France. These watery arteries give Amiens a unique atmosphere. You really have a feeling that you are in the most beautiful countryside – right in the centre of a busy metropolis.

The hortillonnages are a major heritage site. Marshland gardens, cultivated for centuries, created on man-made islands and on the land which lines the waterways. In fact the gardens are so old that no one knows when they began. But, legend has it that when the city’s Cathedral was built in the 13th century, it was on a field of artichokes managed by the gardeners of the hortillonnages.

All tours are by eco-friendly electric boats which glide silently across the tranquil waters. Steering the boat round islands, stopping off at jetties to look at artworks dotted around, enjoying a picnic on an island – it really brings out your inner happy. The only disturbance was the cooing and calling of birds and the croaking of frogs. You’d hardly even know you’re in a city if it wasn’t for the fact that you can see the spire of the great Gothic cathedral in the distance.

Chateau de Chantilly

At the stunning Chateau de Chantilly treating yourself to some Chantilly cream is de rigeur! Fling the diet plans out of the window and dig straight in. In the gorgeous gardens of this fairy tale castle is a hamlet that was allegedly the inspiration for Marie-Antoinette’s hamlet at Versailles. Pretty little half-timbered buildings and sweet bridges over a bubbling stream. The restaurant serves great lunches including strawberries and Chantilly cream. It was whipped at our table, right in front of our eyes. I confess, my eyes were not bigger than my belly. I has no trouble getting through a very large dollop of utterly seductive cream.

Read more about Chantilly castle and its amazing stables here.

Chateau Thierry | Champagne Vineyards – in Picardy

Take a detour to the area of Chateau Thierry on the Champagne border. You might be amazed to discover that more than 10% of all the Champagne made, is actually produced from vines in this part of Picardy! I have to tell you, if you’re a fan of the fizz like me, it’ll make you effervescent with happiness to go here. You can enjoy a fabulous tasting at several Champagne Houses.

Thiepval Memorial

Thiepval Memorial is one of the most emotional memorials I’ve been to. Not just because of the 72,000 names etched into the white walls, or the row upon row of crosses.

The guides who work here offer free tours and they share anecdotes and stories of those whose names are forever remembered. As the guide told me about a man whose bravery at trying to save the lives of his comrades ended in his own death, I looked up on the walls. The names are familiar to us all, Davis, Smith, Roberts – and Cedric Dickens, great-grandson of Charles Dickens who’d loved the north of France so much. The absolute tragedy of the sacrifices made, the terrible losses, completely overwhelmed me. I burst into tears and thought how very grateful I am for all that I have.

Road Trip Nord, Northern France

Lille – historic and stunning

Lille, the capital of Hauts-de-France has the most beautiful old town. Wander it’s cobbled streets under colourful bunting, past boulangeries and cake shops where people wait patiently in queues – a small price to pay for the lushest of dishes. Dine at an authentic estaminet, the Flemish word for an inn. Visit a microbrewery. There are museums and art galleries  galore. You’ll fall under the spell of this vibrant city that’s crammed with museums and cultural highlights and full of friendly folk, so that you can hardly bear to leave. There’s just so much to do: 10 things to do in Lille

And it’s a short journey to the Roubaix district. Here you’ll find the world class La Piscine museum and a whole load more art and culture. And not much further to Lens where you’ll find a branch of the Paris Louvre, the world’s most visited museum. The Lens Louvre is an extraordinary museum and a must-see for all lovers of art.

Saint Omer

Saint Omer is about half an hour from Calais which makes it a great last stop on your way home to shop for supplies. But en route from Lens, make a stop at Bethune and discover the pretty town and Chef Marc Meurin’s fabulous hotel and Michelin starred restaurant. The sweet-toothed chef also has a sweet shop that would make Willy Wonka do cartwheels. Chef Meurin also offers cooking lessons. Even I, “Flop Chef”, learned how to create something marvellous! And he has a great, informal restaurant called Le Jardin d’Alice which the locals love.

Back to Saint Omer. It’s a quintessential French market town that has a massive historic footprint. Thomas a Becket AKA Saint Thomas Becket took refuge from Henry II of England there in 1165. Centuries later, three of America’s Founding Fathers, Daniel, Charles and John Carroll, studied at the Jesuit Chapel.

Markets, Shakespeare and Flemish cafes

If you can, be there for the Saturday morning market. A riot of colour and scents and sounds fill the cobbled square in front of the neo-classic town hall. Stalls are piled high with produce, vegetables grown on the local marshes and farms or by green-fingered locals. This is one of the most authentic and friendly markets I’ve ever been to. And when you’re done, pop to the town library. It looks ordinary from outside, however – head to the old part of the building where books go back to the 7th century. A priceless First Folio of Shakespeare’s plays was recently discovered on its heaving shelves! And stop to enjoy a local beer and Flemish dish at any number of cafés and watch the world go by and plan your return to this unforgettable part of France.

Once is never enough.

See my trip by video:

This region is a land of contrast, sea and country, history and culture, arts and crafts and gastronomy. Whether you stay for a weekend or a week, there’s so much to discover that one visit will never satisfy you…

Get my free road trip guide and discover more great things to do in northern France: french-weekendbreaks.co.uk. There are loads of tips for restaurants and things to do in and around the areas mentioned…

The post Road Trip northern France appeared first on The Good Life France.

Lens in the Nord department, a few kilometres south east of Bethune and just to the north of Arras was for three centuries a major production area for the coal mining industry. When production ceased in the late 20^th century, Lens for a while, had an air of dejection. Today, that’s certainly completely changed, however, sections of the coal mining industry have been preserved for posterity serving as educational and cultural reminders of the once great industry that contributed so much to the French economy.

UNESCO listed slagheaps

Any visitor to Lens won’t fail to spot the vast slag waste heaps that dominate the regional landscape. There are 51 of them. The sight is quite spectacular and forms part of a new artistic culture that has brought regeneration to the area. They’ve even achieved UNESCO world heritage status. Unesco defines the region as an “organically evolved” cultural landscape, part of a list of “distinct geographical areas or properties uniquely representing the combined work of nature and of man”.

The coal slag piles are constantly monitored by specialist engineers. They are quite safe and accessible for climbing. I walked right to the top of one and admired the breath-taking views over the surrounding countryside from the summit. It was a clear day and the Belgium coast could be seen in the distance. The man-made terrain has a rough and grainy substance that is easy to walk on. Entrance is free and takes around an hour and half for the climb and return.

There are other reminders of the days of the mines. Mining pits, workers cottages and mining villages, an original cast iron lift shaft. They form a powerful component and symbol of what has now been transformed into an imposing, landscaped art form. And a tourist attraction.

The slag heaps are becoming transformed by vegetation, trees and plants, even vines. One has become a dry ski slope.

You don’t have to take a guided tour but they are offered at Base 11/19 de Loos-en-Gohelle.

Lens Louvre Museum

Lens is also the base for an annex of the prestigious Louvre museum in Paris. The glass and aluminium art gallery, very different from the Paris museum, is a vast and imposing sight. It stands in grounds landscaped to represent the old coal mining fields as an artistic statement. The ‘Louvre-Lens’ museum displays artworks from its parent in Paris on a regular exchange basis. Entrance to the museum is free. Read more about: Lens-Louvre Museum

Lens town and around

Pop into the town for something to eat and drink, there are plenty of friendly cafés. And the art deco train station is well worth a look. Built to resemble a steam train, it is a listed National Heritage Site.

Lens is close to many sites including Vimy Ridge, the Ring of Memory and Notre Dame de Lorette also known as Ablain St.-Nazaire French Military Cemetery.

The post Lens in Northern France | a city reinvented appeared first on The Good Life France.